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THE 


ART    OF   WEAVING, 


BY   HAND   AND   BY  POWER, 


WITH  AN 


INTRODUCTORY    ACCOUNT 


OF  ITS  RISE  AND  PROGRESS  IN 


ANCIENT    AND    MODERN    TIMES. 


FOR.  THE   USE    OF 

MANUFACTURERS    AND   OTHERS. 

BY    CLINTON    G.    GILROY, 

PRACTICAL     WEAVER     AND     MANUFACTURER. 


GENERAL    SUBJECTS    OP    THIS    -WORK. 


1.  Plain  Weaving. 

2.  Tweeling. 

3.  Double  Cloth,  (plain  and  tweeled,)  Mar- 
seilles Quilting  and  Velvets. 

4.  Cross  Weaving,  comprising  Gauze  and 
Net  Work. 


5.  Figured  Weaving. 

6.  Carpeting  ;  including  Ingrain,  Imperial, 
Brussels,  Wilton,  Turkey  and  Velvet  Pile  ; 
also  Rugs,  Tapestry,  etc. 

7.  Lace  and  Embroidery. 

8.  Plain  and  Figured  Weaving  by  Power. 


ILLUSTRATED  BY  APPROPRIATE  ENGRAYINGS. 

IN    ONE   VOLUME. 


NEW    YORK: 
GEORGE  D.  BALDWIN,  35  SPRUCE  STREET. 

1844. 


Entered  according  to  act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1844,  by 
GEORGE    D.    BALDWIN, 

in  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  for  the  Southern 
District  of  New  York. 


STEREOTYPED     BY     T.     B.     SMITH, 
216   WILLIAM   STREET,   NEW  YORK. 


ADVERTISEMENT. 


In  making  books  we  own  that  we  are  ^green,^ 
And  for  defects  this  should  be  some  apology. 
The  Author  of  this  Treatise  has  not  been 
Plucking  sufficient  fruit  from  off  the  knowledge  tree ; 
A  fact  which  by  our  readers  will  be  seen, 
Without  the  proofs  afforded  by  phrenology ; 
But,  to  avoid  the  evils  of  satiety, 
We  shall  endeavour  to  give  some  variety. 

Materials  inexhaustible  abound, 

Which,  if  well  handled,  might  adorn  our  pages  ; 

By  learning,  metaphysical,  profound. 

We  might,  no  doubt,  be  rank'd  among  the  sages ; 

The  natives  too,  perhaps,  we  might  astound, 

Witli  lists  comparative  of  weavers'  wages; 

Or,  essays  on  political  economy  ; 

Or,  loftier  still,  the  science  of  astronomy. 

Though  all  these  themes  are  worthy  of  attention. 
We  think  it  proper  in  this  place  to  state. 
That  to  exclude  all  chances  of  dissension, 
The  Author  shall  not  in  this  Work  relate 
A  sentence,  which,  by  men  o^  comprehension, 
Could  e'er  be  deem'd  admitting  of  debate : 
Hence,  politics  we  never  once  shall  touch, 
Lest  we  should  say  too  little,  or  loo  much. 

'Tis  wisdom  to  make  hay  while  weather's  sunny; 
But,  here  we  should  not  be  misunderstood : 
We  disavow  all  thoughts  of  making  money: 
We  publish  solely  for  the  public  good, 
(Our  own  included).     Op'ning  flowers  yield  honey ; 
This  Book  shall  yield  to  weavers  ample  food  ; 
Food  for  the  mind,  which,  when  digested,  may 
Yield  food  to  fill  the  body  every  day. 

The  present  Work  is  not  a  periodical ; 

We  do  not  publish  number  after  number 

Poetic,  philosophical,  rhapsodical, 

With  shining  gems  amidst  a  mass  ofjumber. 

Our  plan,  in  most  respects,  is  quite  methodical. 

Meantime,  our  readers  we  shall  not  encumber 

With  more  remarks,  but  show  them,  with  facility, 

A  specimen  or  two  of  our  ability.  -|  '^  '^  A  ^f^ 


CONTENTS. 


INTRODUCTION. 

PAGE 

Spinning,  by  Zabozok,  of  Nodville — Wallotty  Trot's  Spinning  Jenny — 
Origin  of  Weaving,  by  Glielen — Weaving  among  the  Ancient  Egyp- 
tians— Late  Discoveries  in  Egypt,  by  Doctor  Lepsius,  Mr.  Fellows,  and 
others — Bronze  Power  Loom — Dimity  Power  Loom — Fork  and  Grid 
Stop-thread  Motion — Ancient  Net-work  or  Lace — Decorations  of  Sol- 
omon's Temple — Ancient  Spinning  Machine,  with  256  Spindles,  &c. — 
Babylonian  Pen-knife — Silk  Manufacture  in  China — The  Gods'  Eyes 
Puncher — Seven-ply  Carpeting — Figured  Weaving  in  India — Pope 
Alexander  VI,  his  Account  of  the  Cloth  Manufacture  in  Ancient 
Times  by  Arkite  Ghiden  Ghelen — Discoveries  in  Arabia — ZannkulK. 
Euzen,  King  of  Nodville — Oration  on  Weaving,  delivered  by  Arphaxad 
before  Deioces,  first  King  of  the  Medes — Alarm  Loon — Lemuel  P. 
Arybas,  of  the  Plains  of  Shinar,  the  Inventor  of  the  Jaw-Temple — 
Letter  from  Alexis  Kersivenus,  of  Alexandria,  Egypt — Contest  in 
Weaving  between  Minerva  and  Arachne — Egyptian  Tapestry  Weav- 
ing, with  imperial  Let-off  and  Take-up  Motions — Weaving  in  Pales- 
tine, described  by  Pope  Leo  X — Weaving  Gold  and  Silver — Wire- 
drawing Machine,  invented  by  Zurishaddai,  of  Sidon-Pope  G  XVI,  his 
Samples  of  Gold  and  Silver  Lace-wire,  &c. — Specimen  of  Egyptian 
Shebetz,  procured  from  Mehemet  Ali,  Viceroy  of  Egypt — A  Mantle 
of  Shinar — Babylonish  Carpets  and  Shawls — Persian  Carpets — Egyp- 
tian Carpets,  with  raised  Pile — Tyrian  Purple — Grecian  Tapestry — 
Sale  of  Old  Maids  at  Public  Auction,  by  the  Assyrians — Coan  Robes 
— Coan  Vests — Account  of  Joseph's  Coat,  by  Pope  Leo  X — The  Pope 
in  error — Basharaboo's  account  of  Joseph's  Coat — Manufactures  of 
Lydia  and  Phrygia — Letter  from  Alexis  Kersivenus.  •        .        .  1 

SECTION    FIRST. 

PLAIN    WEAVING. 

Winding  or  Spooling — Beaming-^Drawing  or  Entering — Yarn  Beam — 
Cloth  Roller — Rods — Headles — Lay  and  Reed — Temples— Shuttles 
— Operation  of  Weaving — Sizing — Treading — Crossing  the  Shuttle 
— Striking  up  the  Weft — Stripes  and  Checks — W^arping  Striped 
Webs.  &c 69 


CONTENTS. 

SECTION   SECOND. 
TWEELING. 

PAGE. 

Tweeled  Cloth— Mounting  of  Looms  for  Tweeling— Draughts  and  Cord- 
ings — Arrangement  of  Treadles — Breaking  the  Tweel — Various  kinds 
of  Tweels — Various  kinds  of  Tweeled  Stripes — Dimity  Cord  Mount- 
ing— Domic  and  Diaper — &c 96 

SECTION  THIRD. 
V^^EAVING  DOUBLE  CLOTH-. 

Tweeling  Double  Clotli— Marseilles  Q,uilting — The  Junction  of  Two 
Unequal  Fabrics— Diagonal  Q,uilt— Waved  GLuilt— Diamond  GLuilt — 
Double  Cloth  Harness— Velvets— Plain  or  Tabby-backed  Velvet — Sim- 
ple Jean  Velvet — Plush  Velvet — «fcc 116 

SECTION   FOURTH. 
V7EAVING   CROSSED    WARPS. 

Common  Gauze — Gauze  Mountings— Whip  Net — Spider  and  Mail  Nets — 
Patent  Net  or  Night  Thought — Princess  Royal  Net — Dropped  Nets,  &c.  124 

SECTION  FIFTH. 
FIGURED    WEAVING.         ' 
Draw  Loom — ^Mounting  the  Draw  Loom — Reading  or  lashing  Patterns — 
Counterpoise  Harness — Design  and  Colouring — Ornamental  Drawing 
— Harmonious    Colouring — Design     Paper — Designing     Patterns — 
Comb  Draw  Loom 143 

SECTION    SIXTH. 
FIGURED    WEAVING. 

Barrel  or  Cylinder  Loom — Jacquard  Machine — Cutting  or  Punching 
the  Pattern  Cards 182 

SECTION  SEVENTH. 
CARPETING. 

Ingrain,  Three-ply,  Wilton,  Brussels,  Velvet  Pile  and  Turkey  Carpets — 
Manufacture  of  Carpets,  Rugs,  &c.,  by  Cementing  a  Nap  or  Pile  on 
Plain  Cloth — Chenille — Gobelins  Tapestry — Cashmere  Shawls — 
Origin  and  Progress  of  the  New  Race  of  Cashmere  or  Angora 
Goats — Spinning  Cashmere  Wool — Weaving  Imitation  Cashmere 
Shawls— &c 210 

SECTION   EIGHTH. 
LACE   MANUFACTURE. 
Eff5T>tian  Lace — Letter  from  Alexis  Kersivenus — Various  kinds  of  Lace- 
nialcing  Machines — Embroidery — Hielmann's  Embroidering  Machine 
— LiMter  from  Mr.  Hielmann 275 


CONTENTS. 

SECTION   NINTH. 
Spooling,  Warping  and  Sizing,  by  Power 330 

SECTION  TENTH. 
PLAIN   WEAVING,   BY   POWER. 

Sharp,  Roberts  &,  Co.'s  Loom— Howard  and  Scattergood's  Loom,  with 
C.  G.  Gilroy's  Improvements  thereon— C.  G.  Gilroy's  Improved  Loom 
— Amassa  Stone's  Loom— Oliver  C.  Burr's  Loom— Gilroy's  Patent- 
Welcome  A.  Potter's  Loom— Horace  Hendrick's  Loom— Frederick 
Downing's  Loom— Elijah  Fairman's  Loom— O.  M.  Stillman's  Loom 
— W.  T.  Shallcross's  Loom— Thomas  Welch's  Loom — Thomas  Mel- 
lowdew's  Loom 345 

SECTION   ElEVENTH. 
FANCY   WEAVING,   BY  POWER. 

Charles  Fletcher's  Loom— George  Clarke's  Loom — Robert  Bowman's 
Loom — Richard  Roberts'  Loom — John  Potter's  Loom — Joseph  Jones's 
Loom— Burt  and  Boyds'  Loom— Manufacture  of  Silk  Goods— Taffetas 
—Shining  Taffeta— Gros  de  Naples— Thick  Silk  Cloth— Satin— 
Headle-making  machine— Improved  Headles— Varnishes  for  Headles 
—Jaw  Temple— Draper's  Rotary  Temple— Craig  and  Cochran's  Im- 
proved Rotary  Temple— Fork  and  Grid  Motion— BuUough  and  Gil- 
roy's Patents 386 

SECTION  TWELFTH. 
FIGURED  WEAVING,  BY  POWER. 

Damask — Haight  and  Bigelow's  Carpet  Looms — Tompkins  and  Gib*oy's 
Damask  Loom— C.  G.  Gilroy's  Marseilles  Quilting  Loom,  with  Thomas 
Yates'  Improvements  thereon — E.  B.  Bigelow's  Quilting  Loom — 
Berry's  Metallic  Tissue  Loom— Glass  Weaving— C.  G.  Gilroy's  Full- 
harness  Jacquard  Loom — Dohmme  and  Romagney's  Jacquard — Fred- 
erick Goos'  Jacquard— C.  G.  Gilroy's  Presser-harness  Jacquard  Loom 
—Claims  of  E.  B.  Bigelow's  Patents— Evidence  of  Select  Committee  of 
the  House  of  Commons  on  Arts  and  Manufactures — Reed  Scale — 
Gilroy's  Specimens  of  Design  Paper — French  Card  Cutting  or 
Punching  Machine — Reports  of  French,  English,  and  other  Manufac- 
turers on  C.  G.  Gilroy's  T^ooms,  with  Letter  from  Hon.  H.  L.  Ells- 
worth— C.  G.  Gilroy's  Loom  Mountings,  &c. — Gilroy's  Weft  Calcula- 
tion Tables,  &c 423 


INTRODUCTION. 


A  THOROUGH  knowledge  of  the  Art  of  Weaving,  in  all  its  va- 
rieties, is  the  gradual  result  of  indefatigable  exertion,  and  cannot 
be  acquired,  except  by  a  long  course  of  practical  application  in 
those  parts  of  the  world  where  it  is  best  understood. 

Many  of  our  American  weavers  already  possess  sufficient  skill 
and  dexterity  in  several  branches  of  this,  the  most  complex  of  all 
arts,  to  prove  dangerous  rivals  to  those  similarly  engaged  in  other 
parts  of  the  globe  ;  but  the  field  for  improvement  is  still  very  ex- 
tensive. In  every  quarter  of  this  vast  country  men  of  scientific 
genius  are  busy  in  applying  those  elementary  and  specidative  prin- 
ciples, which  were  formerly  confined  to  the  closet  of  the  philosopher, 
to  the  grand  purpose  of  social  improvement.  The  great  chain 
which  connects  theory  with  the  useful  arts,  is  rapidly  extending, 
and  it  is  impossible  to  anticipate  what  may  be  the  result. 

The  fabrication  of  ahnost  every  species  of  cloth  appears  to  have 
been  carried  on  to  a  surprising  extent  in  the  ancient  world  ;  and  a 
knowledge  of  the  processes  by  which  it  was  accomplished,  together 
wnth  the  improvements  made  on  many  of  them  since  their  intro- 
duction into  Evu'ope,  are  objects  of  the  first  national  importance, 
and  no  apology  is  necessary  for  our  attempting  a  collection  of  facts 
on  the  subject,  embodying  them  with  our  own  experience  as  a  prac- 
tical weaver  and  manufacturer,  in  England,  Ireland,  Scotland, 
France,  Belgium,  Prussia,  &c.,  for  nearly  a  quarter  of  a  century. 

Although  the  art  of  weaving  the  more  common  fabrics  is  exten- 
sively known  in  this  country,  nevertheless,  the  intricate  and  orna- 
mental textures  are  not  2oell  understood  ;  neither  have  they  been 
explained  by  any  one  thoroughly  versed  in  the  business  ;  which 
precludes  the  necessity  of  further  observation  from  us  on  this  head. 

A  variety  of  publications  relative  to  this  branch  of  industry,  de- 
signed for  the  use  of  weavers  of  common  fabrics,  haA^e,  indeed,  ap- 
peared, at  different  times,  by  such  authors  as  O'Doherty,   Diogenes, 


2  INTRODUCTION. 

Murphy,Greenougli.Peddie,0'\Vestman,  Yates  and  Uie;  but,  that 
these  writers  were  whoU)',  or  in  a  great  measure,  ignorant  of  the 
subject,  Ave  have  demonstrative  proofs  in  their  own  works.  The 
books  of  these  men  contain  merely  such  scraps  and  sketches  as 
were  furnished  for  them,  by  persons  who  required  instruction  them- 
selves, as  the  matter  there  presented,  abundantly  testifies.  Such 
compilations  are  nearly  filled  witli  tables  and  useless  repetitions, 
"ybr  the  purpose  of  facilitating  calculatio7i,"  as  they  are  termed. 
These  tables  appear  rather  to  have  been  intended  for  the  use  of  the 
plain  cloth  manufacturer  of  the  twelfth  century,  than  for  the  fancy 
warper,  or  figure  weaver  of  our  own  day.  To  the  mechanical  part  of 
the  business,  such  as  the  construction  of  the  looms  and  other  appa- 
ratus requisite  for  the  production  of  the  more  intricate  kinds  of  tex- 
tures, a7id  the  necessary  jjractical  instructions,  they  have  scarcely 
alluded  in  theh  treatises.  They  only  speak  of  the  art  in  its  im- 
perfect state,  as  it  existed  in  England,  Ireland,  and  Scotland  in 
times  long  past ;  and  hence  such  books  are  not  calculated  for  the 
present  age  of  improvement.  Indeed,  it  seems  to  usj  that  these 
authors  were,  (in  the  words  of  Pollok) 

"  Resolved  {in  spite  of  fate)  before  tliey  died, 
To  make  some  grand  discovery,  by  which 
They  should  be  known  to  all  posterity." 

The  great  majority  of  mankind  are  ever  prone  to  limit  their  de- 
sire of  information,  to  that  which  seems  at  the  time  most  necessary 
to  their  subsistence.  The  weaver  who  is  accustomed  to  be  em- 
ployed at  one  kind  of  work,  seldom  troubles  himself  to  enquire  by 
what  means  other  kinds  are  now,  or  were  produced  ;  and  although 
by  this  constant  application  to  one  branch,  he  increases  his  prac- 
tical dexterity  in  it ;  yet.  such  a  course,  at  the  same  time,  tends  to 
impede  his  progress  in  the  attainment  of  a  complete  knowledge  of 
his  vocation.  Indeed,  many  of  the  different  species  of  weaving 
have  already  l^ecome  nearly  local.  In  Great  Britain,  for  example, 
the  jManchester  weaver  is,  in  general,  as  ignorant  of  the  mode  of 
mounting  a  gauze  spider  net,  as  he  of  Paisley  or  Glasgow,  is  of  a 
Pekin  brocade,  or  an  Egyptian  shehetz.  The  division  of  labour, 
however,  is  carried  still  further  :  the  mounting  of  a  loom  in  the 
figured  department  is  frec^uently  the  business  of  several  persons, 
and  the  working  of  it  that  of  from  one  to  six  others.  Some  figured 
looms  have  as  many  as  eight  Jacquards,  of  400,  600,  900,  and 
even  1300  needles  each  ;  and  from  one  to  four  pulley-boxes,  each 
of  which  has  a  tail,  simple,  and  drawboy  to  operate  upon  it.  These 
complicated  looms  contain  from  one  to  twelve  cumber  boards  (some- 


INTRODUCTION.  S 

times  called  harness  boards)  which  are  often  made  stationary ;  but 
at  other  times  one,  or  more  are  elevated  or  depressed,  at  every  2d, 
3d,  4th,  or  6th,  passage  of  the  shuttle.  In  weaving  Marseilles 
quilting  and  petticoat  robes,  on  this  plan,  only  two  shifting  harness 
boards  in  connection  with  two,  or  more  leaves  of  headles,  are  used. 
But  these  subjects  will  be  more  fully  treated  of  in  another  place. 

The  study  of  the  art  of  weaving  will  at  least  afford  to  an  inquisi- 
tive mind,  a  source  of  rational  and  innocent  amusement.  Besides 
this  consideration,  many  circumstances  concur,  to  render  records  of 
the  state  of  every  art,  peculiarly  desirable.  It  is  well  ascertained 
by  the  researches  of  antiquarians  and  hierologists,  that  many  use- 
ful branches  of  art,  which  were  known  and  practised  by  the  an- 
cients, have  been  almost  entirely  lost,  for  want  of  such  records. 
Perhaps  two-thirds,  or  more  of  them  have  thus  sunk  into  oblivion ; 
take  for  example,  that  of  weaving  six  and  seven  ply  carpeting, 
(known  to  the  ancients  under  the  cognomen  of  Tymoliis  matting^* 
by  the  power  of  compressed  air. 

*  The  eminent  German  hierologist,  Dr.  Lepsius,  now  employed  in  Egypt 
by  the  Prussian  government,  in  a  recent  letter,  after  mentioning  the  many  (iis- 
coveries  he  had  made  of  ancient  ruins,  tombs,  &c.,  writes  as  follows: 

"  With  the  exception  of  about  twelve,  Avhich  belong  to  a  later  period,  all 
these  tombs  were  erected  contemporaneously  with,  or  soon  after,  the  huildinof 
of  the  great  pyramid,  and  consequently  their  dates  throw  an  invaluable  light 
on  the  study  of  human  civilization  in  the  most  remote  period  of  antiquity. — 
The  sculptures  in  relief  are  surprisingly  numerous,  and  repre.'ent  whole  fig- 
ures, some  the  size  of  life,  and  others  of  various  dimensions.  The  paiittingn 
are  on  back  grounds  of  the  finest  chalk.  They  are  numerous  and  beautifni 
beyond  conception — as  fresh  and  perfect  as  if  finished  yesterday  !  Tlie  pic- 
lures  and  sculptures  on  the  Avails  of  the  tombs  represent,  for  the  most  part, 
scenes  in  the  lives  of  the  deceased  persons,  whose  wealth  in  cattle,  fish  boats, 
servants,  &c.,  is  ostentatiously  displayed  before  the  eye  of  the  spectator.  All 
this  gives  an  insight  into  the  details  of  private  life  among  the  ancient  Egyp- 
tians. By  the  help  of  these  inscriptions  I  think  I  could,  without  difficulty, 
make  a  Court  Calendar  of  the  reign  of  King  Cheops.  Bat^  my  friends,  let  no 
vwnument  give  you  or  me  hopes,  since  not  a  pinch  of  dust  is  left  unturned, 
by  us,  of  the  mortal  remains  of  old  King  Cheops  !  In  some  instances  I  have 
traced  the  graves  of  father,  son,  grandson,  and  even  great  grandson — all  that 
now  remains  of  the  distinguished  families,  which  five  thousand  years  ago, 
formed  the  nobility  of  the  land.  I  now  employ  daily  fifty  or  sixty  men,  in 
digging  and  other  kinds  of  labour,  and  a  large  excavation  has  been  made  in 
front  of  the  great  Sphynx." 

Another  writer  has  condensed  from  Rosellini,  and  other  hierologists,  the 
following  remarks : 

"  Philologists,  astronomers,  chemists,  painters,  architects,  physicians,  must 
return  to  Egypt  to  learn  the  origin  of  language  and  writing — of  the  calendar 


4  INTRODUCTION. 

The  ornamental  arts  are  so  much  reflated  by  the  prevaUing 
fashion,  and  caprice  of  mankind,  that  many  sj^ecies  of  fancy  manu- 
factures he  nesflected  for  years,  and.  in  many  instances,  they  could 

and  solar  moiion — of  the  art  of  cutting  granite  with  a  copper  chisel,  and  of 
giving  elasticity  to  a  copper  sword — of  making  gla-ss  witli  the  variegated  hues 
of  the  rainbow — of  mo\'ing  single  blocks  of  poUshed  syenite,  nine  hundred  tons 
in  iceisht.  for  any  distance  by  land  and  water — of  building  arches  round,  and 
pointed  with  masonic  precision,  unsurpassed  at  the  present  day,  and  antece- 
dent, by  two  thousand  years  before  the  Dorians  are  known  in  histor}- — of 
fresco  painting  in  imperishable  colours — and  of  practical  knowledge  of  ein- 
atomy. 

"  Every  craftsman  can  behold,  in  Eg}-ptian  monuments,  the  progress  of  his 
art  four  thousand  years  ago ;  and  whether  it  be  a  wheel-wright  building  a 
chariot ;  a  leather  cutter  using  the  self  same  form  of  knife  of  old  as  is  consid- 
ered the  best  form  now  ;  tlie  plain,  and  fancy  weavers  actively  employed  at 
their  respective  looms  :  a  white  smith  using  that  identical  form  of  blow  pipe, 
but  lately  recognized  to  be  the  most  efficient ;  the  seal  engraver  cutting  in 
hieroglj'phics  such  names  as  Shoofd's.ArpTiaarad's.  and  Arkite  Ghiden  Ghe- 
len's,  above  four  thousand  three  hundred  years  ago ;  or  even  the  poulterer 
removing  the  pip  from  geese  ;  all  these  and  many  more  evidences  of  Egyp- 
tian priority  now  require  but  a  glance  at  the  plates  of  Rosellini." 

To  this  catalogue  of  Eg}-ptian  arts,  a  long  addition  might  be  made  of  mon- 
uments descriptive  of  the  goldsmith's  and  jeweller's  work ;  instrumental 
music,  singing,  dancing,  and  gymnastic  exercises,  including  children's 
games,  like  some  of  the  present  day ;  the  tasteful  furniture  of  their  houses ; 
ship  building ;  drawings  in  natural  history,  so  true  to  life,  that  the  French 
naturalists,  by  means  of  them,  instantly  recognized  the  several  species  of 
Eg>-ptian  birds  designated  by  them;  and  of  numberless  other  branches  of  art 
In  Persia  also,  much  ethnographic  information  has  lately  been  brought  to 
light  by  the  architects  and  artists  attached  to  the  French  embassy  in  that 
country.  Their  operations  embrace  ruins  of  the  ancient  cities  of  Nineveh, 
Babylon,  Ecbatana,  Persepolis,  Ctesiphon,  &c.  These  researches  in  connec- 
tion witti  the  labours  of  Groteford  and  Lassen,  who  have  deciphered  the  ar- 
row-headed inscriptions  of  those  cities,  are  of  great  importance  in  elucidating 
a  portion  of  the  world's  historj'^,  of  which  we  know  so  little.  The  French 
government  has  lately  sent  a  party  to  explore  the  regions  between  Casbmere 
and  Kafferistan.  with  orders  to  report  on  the  Geography  of  those  cotm tries — 
the  various  native  tribes  by  which  they  are  occupied,  their  languages,  monu- 
ments, &c. 

In  Asia  Minor  a  new  field  for  antiquarian  researches  has  been  opened. 
which  bids  fair  to  throw  much  light  on  the  history  of  several  nations,  and  par- 
ticularly the  Greeks,  at  a  period,  the  historj'  of  which  we  know  but  little. 
The  researches  of  the  English  have  chiefly  been  in  ancient  Lycia.  where  in 
two  different  expeditions,  Mr.  Fellows  has  made  some  important  discoveries 
of  cities,  remains  of  temples,  inscriptions,  dec  He  has  also  been  able  to  make 
out  the  language  of  the  people  who  erected  these  edifices,  through  bilinqular 
inscriptions  found  there.  He  is  now  on  his  way  there  again,  w^ith  a  large 
company  and  a  steamer,  for  the  purpose  of  transporting  to  England  such 


INTRODUCTION.  O 

never  again  be  introduced,  unless  a  knowledge  of  the  processes  em- 
ployed in  tlieir  production  were  preserved.  AVhen  such  knowledge 
is  only  transmitted  verbally,  and  when  it  is  confined  to  operative 

monuments  of  art  as  are  valuable  and  in  good  preservation.  The  French  and 
Prussian  governments  have  scientific  expeditions  besides,  in  other  parts  of 
Asia  Minor. 

In  Abyssinia  are  travellers  from  England,  France,  and  Germany,  who  are 
engaged  in  scientific  explorations  of  the  country.  Their  labours  will  contri- 
bute greatly  to  our  knowledge  of  that  hitherto  unknown  region.  On  the  cite 
of  ancient  Carthage  and  in  the  country  adjacent,  some  interesting  discoveriea 
have  been  made.    Among  these  the  following  articles  have  been  found: 

1st.  A  complete  power  loom  of  bronze^  of  vertical  construction,  adapted  to 
weave  sLvteen  webs  of  cloth  at  one  and  the  same  operation,  either  plain, 
tweeled,  or  figured,  and  with  from  one  to  thirty-seven  shuttles,  &c. 

2d.  A  loom  for  weaving  dimity  and  such  stuffs,  with  tappet  wheel  to  work 
the  treadles,  and  a  curious  motion  to  stop  the  machine  when  the  weft  thread 
or  threads  break.  This  last  contrivance  consists  of  two  parts,  one  of  which  is 
very  like  an  '  Irish  gridiron,'  and  is  fixed  in  the  lay  in  a  vertical  position, 
about  three-fourths  of  an  inch  from  one  end  of  tlie  reed ;  the  other  part  resem- 
bles a  French  four-pronged  eating  fork,  and  is  made  to  play  into  the  former 
at  each,  and  every  throw  of  the  shuttle.  But  as  this  motion  (with  several 
other  valuable  contrivances  in  weaving)  was  patented  by  us  in  England, 
France,  and  other  countries  in  the  years  1833,  34  and  39,  the  claims  of  the 
said  hierologists  to  the  contrary  thereof  notwithstanding^  no  farther  notice 
need  be  taken  of  it  here  ;  and  particularly  so,  as  it  is  now  being  adapted  to 
common  power  looms  at  Paterson,  N.  J.,  Troy,  N.  Y.,  and  at  Lowell,  Mass., 
where  the  curious  may  see  it  in  full  operation,  and  be  better  able  to  judge  of 
its  merits  for  themselves. 

3d.  A  spinning  machine  with  two  hundred  and  fifty-six  spindles,  copper 
drums,  and  India  rubber  bands  to  drive  it ;  all  of  which  are  in  a  tolerable 
state  of  preservation ;  the  whole  bearing  a  very  close  resemblance  to  the 
'  Danforth  frame.' 

4lh.  18^  yards  of  '  net  work '  or  lace,  figured,  similar  to  that  used  in  the 
decoration  of  Solomon's  Temple,  and  of  which  so  frequent  mention  is  made 
in  the  book  of  Exodus.  This  specimen  corresponds  in  many  respects  to  that 
shown  us  by  his  Holiness,  the  Pope's  antiquarian  when  at  Rome,  in  April, 
1831,  and  of  which  we  shall  have  occasion  to  make  further  mention  hereafter. 

5th.  13^  yards  of  beautiful  lace,  being  composed  of  gold  and  silver  threads 
alternately,  on  which  are  represented  the  sun,  moon,  and  stars ;  the  crocodile, 
pelican,  heron,  and  goose  ;  and  also  a  man  and  woman  in  a  state  of  nudity, 
eating  fruit,  which  they  appear  to  have  plucked  from  off  a  tree  hard  by ;  there 
is  also  in  the  same  group  a  likeness  of  a  serpent,  very  much  resembling  our 
modern  boa  constrictor. 

6th.  A  penknife  with  98  blades ;  but  this  does  not  so  much  excite  our  won- 
der as  the  others,  because  we  are  well  aware  of  the  fact,  that  immense  manu- 
factories of  penknives  were  carried  on  in  ancient  Babylon,  and  other  cities  of 
the  land  of  Shinar,  long  before  the  Jewish  dispensation ;  see  also  the  36th 
chap,  of  Jeremiah  and  23d  verse. 


b  INTRODUCTION. 

tradesmen,  employed  in  the  active  duties  of  their  vocations,  little 
expectation  can  be  formed  of  its  general  diffusion.  The  attention 
of  such  men  is  naturally  more  directed  to  their  present,  than  to  their 
former  employments  ;  and  when  it  is  no  longer  in  their  power  to  il- 
lustrate the  instructions  which  they  may,  occasionally,  wish  to  con- 
vey to  others,  by  showdng  them  the  practical  operation,  the  task  be- 
comes doubly  difficult.  From  the  want  of  proper  information  on 
such  subjects  a  person  may  possibly  think  himself  the  inventor  of  a 
certain  machine,  which  he  conceives  to  be  legitimately  begotten, 
and  may  succeed  in  obtaining,  from  capitalists,  unskilled  in  the  par- 
ticular art  to  which  it  relates,  vast  sums  of  money,  on  the  strength 
of  such  an  impression  ;  and  still  a  similar  machine  may  have  been 
in  use  long  before,  or  even  is  at  the  present  day,  without  his  know- 
ledge of  the  fact.  Many  a  man  has  been  deceived  in  supposing 
himself  the  originator  of  a  certain  contrivance,  which  he  might  have 
found  described  in  some  old  book,  or  L'ishman's  portfoho. 

It  ought  to  be  our  study  to  fix  permanently  upon  the  memory, 
some  of  the  extraordinary  events  that  happened  in  the  world  thou- 
sands of  years  before  we  had  an  existence  upon  it.  We  find  our- 
selves inhabitants  of  one  of  the  numberless  planets  which  are  ever 
rolling  along  through  infinite  space,  at  a  most  astonishing  rate  of 
speed.  We  have  no  means  of  knowing  at  present  what  beings  in- 
habit, or  what  laws  govern  those  glorious  orbs  that  on  all  sides  sur- 
round us,  or  how  far  advanced  in  the  arts  their  inhabitants  may 
have  become,  and  particularly  in  that  of  power  loom  weaving  with 
9nes7Jieric  cams.  We  have  now  no  communication  wnth  other 
worlds,  nor  with  the  beings  that  people  them.  This  earth  on  which 
we  live  is  ours  (that's  a  fact)  and  it  affords  ample  scope  for  human 
study.  The  enquiring  mind  should  be  anxious  to  know,  who  were 
the  best  manufacturers  of  figured  and  other  fabrics  that  from  time 
to  time  flourished  on  its  variegated  surface  ;  what  events,  changes, 
and  revolvtions  it  has  undergone,  and  how  many  Jacquard  looms, 
and  other  useful  machines,  invented  by  our  antediluvian  relations, 
have  been  engulphed  in  its  bowels,  or  otherwise  knocked  into  chaos. 
It  is  only  by  reading,  by  searching  the  records  of  the  past,  by  deep 

We  confess  that  we,  ourself,  are  surprised,  that  a  complete  power  loom  of 
such  astoundmg  capacity  (including  one  of  our  own  patent  motions)  as  that 
just  mentioned,  together  Avith  a  '  Danforth  frame,'  should  be  dug  up  in  this 
way.  Such  is  to  us  a mystery !  We  will  henceforth  place  implicit  con- 
fidence in  the  words  of  the  wise  man,  as  recorded  in  the  1st  chapter  of  Eccle- 
eiastes. 


INTRODUCTION.  7 

mental  application,  and  above  all,  by  bodily  exertion,  that  we  can 
arrive  at  this  profound  knowledge ;  but,  if  we  can,  although  only 
partially  obtain  some  accounts  of  the  arts,  and  of  what  has  hap- 
pened connected  with  them,  in  ages  far  remote,  it  is  our  duty  not  to 
keep  them  locked  up  for  our  own  gratification,  but  to  bring  them 
forth  for  the  improvement  of  our  fellow-men,  and  more  particularly 
for  the  manufacturing  portion  of  our  own  community. 

We  are  confident  that  many,  and  were  about  to  say,  the  gene- 
rality, of  readers  lose  more  than  half  the  advantage  they  might 
otherwise  derive,  for  want  of  fixing  on  their  minds  the  dates  and 
periods  of  time  most  remarkable  in  the  history  of  such  subjects  as 
the  present. 

"  To  him  who  reads  with  judging  eyes, 
And  studies  as  he  should, 
Philosophy  brings  large  supplies ; 
His  mind  improves,  his  pleasures  rise, 
He  cannot  but  be  great  and  wise." 

The  traveller  who  visits  different  countries  to  view  their  varied 
scenery,  and,  perhaps,  to  pick  up  the  inventions  of  ingenious 
men  by  the  way,  would  experience  but  little  advantage  if,  when  he 
entered  into  a  zephyr  three  ply  bed  quilt  manufactory  he  stood  still, 
and  kept  his  eye  fixed  on  one  object  only,  for  example,  such  as  a 
double  or  treble  shifting  cumber  board  ;  but  when  he  looks  around 
him,  views  the  electric  cams,  the  mercurial  shuttle  changers,  the 
revolving  detached  shuttle  boxes,  with  Poole  and  Fletcher's  patent 
galvanizers,  hollow-cone  warp  dividers,  &c.,  as  they  perform  their 
respective  functions,  both  separately  and  collectively  ;  his  eye 
glistens  with  gladness  and  his  heart  beats  with  dehght,  while  he 
sees  that  he  may  handily  turn  the  ingenuity  of  other  men  to  his 
own  purposes,  without  even  thanking  them  for  it.  If  our  traveller 
should  chance  to  be  one  of  those  prodigies  of  nature,  to  whom  fate 
has  given  some  lucky  powers  of  combination  and  adaptation,  he  at 
one  view  can  see  the  mechanism  in  all  its  various  phases  of 
operation,  and  he  enjoys  the  scene  with  exquisite  relish. 

"  Unto  the  solid  beam  the  warp  is  tied, 
While  hollow  cones  the  parting  threads  divide, 
Through  which  a  thousand  shuttles  swiftly  play, 
And  for  the  zephyr  weft  prepare  a  ready  way." 

(Metam.  VI.     O^Boorke's  Trans.) 

We  shall  here  notice  two  objections  which  have  been  urged  by 
several  European  manufacturers  against  us,  in  our  undertaking  to 
publish  the  present  work. 


8  INTRODUCTION. 

The  first  of  these  is,  that  it  is  improper  to  divulge  the  secrets  of 
any  trade,  because  it  may  operate  to  the  prejudice  of  those  who 
practise  it.  This  doctrine  is  now  so  justly,  and  almost  universally 
exploded,  that  we  shall  occupy  very  little  room  upon  it.  It  will  be 
seen  at  once,  without  entering  at  all  into  the  question  of  the 
policy  of  monopolies,  whether  preserved  by  secret  or  legal  restric- 
tions, that  the  case  does  not  apply  to  the  business  of  weaving.  It 
is  absurd  to  suppose  that  a  trade  which  employs  so  many  millions 
of  people,  and  which  has  existed  almost  since  the  creation  of  the 
world,  either  is,  or  can  be  secret.  Besides,  experience  has  suffi- 
ciently proved,  that  liberal  and  unreserved  communication  between 
artificers  of  all  descriptions,  has  always  produced  good  and  never 
evil.  Indeed,  it  is  obvious  that  every  man,  where  this  takes  place, 
receives  the  advantage  of  the  instruction  of  many,  and  gives  only 
his  own  in  return.  The  balance,  therefore,  must  always  be  in 
his  favour.  With  these  short  remarks  we  shall  dismiss  this 
objection. 

The  second  objection,  though  it  does  not  appeal  to  us  to  stand 
upon  a  more  solid  foundation  than  the  other,  may  require  a  little 
more  consideration.  The  objection  is,  that  by  communicating 
information  upon  the  art  of  weaving,  a  knowledge  of  that  art  may 
be  acquired  m  other  countries,  consequently  the  manufactures  may 
become  less  productive  to  those  engaged  in  them. 

Although  this  proposition  were  admitted  in  its  fullest  extent 
respecting  arts  in  general,  it  could  have  no  effect  on  that  of 
weaving,  which  has  been  entirely  imported  from  the  East,  into 
Europe,  and  has  received  but  little  improvement  in  that  quarter  of 
the  globe. 

The  great  antiquity  of  this  art,  necessarily  involves  the  earlier 
ages  of  its  history  in  considerable  obscurity.  It  ts  very  evident, 
however,  that  none  of  its  branches  originated  in  Europe,  or  America, 
the  cotton  stuffs  worn  by  the  aborigines  of  this  country,  when 
discovered  by  Columbus  excepted.  According  to  Melik  Cassam 
Mirza  of  Tebriz,  Persia,  the  silk  manufacture  was  first  practised  in 
China,  by  Ouang  Tippo  Ichao,*  a  native  of  Tsing  Kiang  Fou, 
in  the  province  of  Kiang  Nau,  about  the  year  of  the  world  1743  ; 
and  from  other  sources  equally  authentic,  we  learn  that  the  cotton 
had  its  origin  in  India,  and  the  shawl  and  carpet  in  Persia. 

*  This  is  undoubtedly  the  same  individual,  as  appears  from  the  name,  to 
whom  Chinese  historians  give  credit  for  having  invented  the  most  powerful 
of  all  ancient  machines,  "  the  gods'  eyes  puncher."  This  machine  was  of  such 
tremendous  pressure  as  actually  to  force,  with  a  single  clip,  a  hole  of  8^  inches 


INTRODUCTION.  9 

These  facts  sufficiently  prove  that  we  have  no  pretensions  to 
superior  knowledge,  or  exclusive  possession  of  any  secrets  or  mys- 
teries connected  with  the  art  of  weaving.  The  very  names  of 
many  fabrics  correspond  to  the  places  where  they  were  first  manu- 
factured, and  the  following,  for  example,  are  all  eastern  :  Nankeens, 
Ballasores,  Madrasses,  Bengals,  Lachores,  Bungoes,  Trebizonds,  (a 
kind  of  frizzled  net)  Bagdad  lace.  Cashmere  scarfs,  Japan  brocades, 
Pekin  brocades,  Canton  crapes,  Turkey  gauze,  Grecian  net, 
Damask,  &c.  All  these,  and  many  more,  including  dimity  and 
muslin,  are  fabrics  of  eastern  manufacture. 

Cotton  stufls,  properly  so  called,  are  first  mentioned  as  an  article 
of  commerce  in  Arrian's  Periplus  of  the  Erythrean  sea.  He  in- 
forms us  that  they  were  imported  from  India  to  Aduli,  a  port  on  the 
Red  Sea,  and  he  specifies  as  the  principal  marts  of  Hindoostan, 
where  the  goods  were  obtained,  Barygaza,  Bai'oche,  Masalia,  and 
Masuliputani.  which  was  then  as  it  ever  since  has  been,  famous 
for  the  manufacture  of  cotton  goods.  He  adds  that  "the  tran- 
sparent gangetic  Sindones  "  were  the  most  highly  valued  ;  and  this 
superiority  of  the  Bengal  muslins  continues  to  the  present  day. 
We  may  remark  that  the  Periplus  affords  an  extraordinary  proof  of 
the  condition  of  the  arts  in  India,  for  the  description  which  Forbes 
gives  of  the  manufactures  of  Baroche  is  very  nearly  identical  with 
that  furnished  by  Arrian  sixteen  centuries  ago.  "  The  cotton  trade 
at  Baroche,"  he  says,  "  is  very  considerable,  and  the  manufacture 
of  this  valuable  plant,  from  the  finest  muslin  to  the  coarsest  sail- 
cloth, employs  thousands  of  men,  w^omen,  and  children,  in  the  me- 
tropolis and  adjacent  villages.  The  cotton  clearers  and  spinners, 
generally  reside  in  the  suburbs  or  poorahs,  of  Baroche,  which  are 
very  extensive.  The  weavers'  houses,  are  mostly  near  the  shade 
of  tamarind  and  mango  trees,  under  which,  at  sunrise,  they  fix  their 
looms,  and  weave  a  variety  of  cotton  cloth,  with  very  fine  baftas 

in  diameter  through  a  wrought  iron  plate  1^  inches  thick.  It  appears  that  the 
eyeballs  of  these  idols,  were  generally  made  of  cast  iron,  '  polished  and  fur- 
bished,' and  adapted  to  fit  the  sockets  with  the  greatest  precision.  A  small 
hole  about  the  size  of  a  cent,  was  usually  gouged  out  in  the  front  and  cen- 
tre part  of  the  eyeball,  to  form  the  pupil.  Into  this  hole  a  black  stone,  or 
some  other  substance  of  the  same  colour  was  inserted,  and  thus  kis  godship 
was  enabled  at  a  glance  to  penetrate  to  the  hearts  of  his  worshippers.  Every 
nine  gods  had  a  'greaser,'  whose  business  it  was  to  cleanse  off"  the  rust 
(which  accumulated  in  damp  weather)  from  the  optics  of  each  god ;  and  this 
operation  was  always  performed  on  the  fifth  day  of  the  new  moon  each  month 
throughout  the  year — leap  year  excepted. 

2 


10  INTRODUCTION. 

and  muslins.  Sural  is  more  famous  for  its  coloured  chintzes  and 
piece  goods.  The  Baroche  mushns  are  inferior  to  those  of  Bengal 
and  Madras,  nor  do  the  painted  chintzes  of  Guzerat,  equal  those  of 
the  Coromandel  coast."  (Forbes,  Oriental  Memoirs,  vol.  ii.  p.  222.) 

We  can  find  no  trace  of  cotton  goods  imported  into  Europe  before 
the  Fall  of  the  Western  Empire  ;  but  they  began  to  be  introduced 
into  Constantinople  about  the  sixth  century,  for  they  are  mentioned 
in  the  tariff  of  import  duties  issued  by  the  emperor  Justinian.  In 
Arabia  however,  cottons  and  muslins  had  come  into  common  use 
about  the  time  of  Mohammed,  for  they  are  frequently  mentioned  in 
the  history  of  the  early  khaliphs.  The  first  "  mushns  "  so  called 
from  their  being  woven  at  El  Mosel  in  Mesopotamia— like  the  Eng- 
lish ''  cambrics,"  were  not  composed  of  cotton,  at  least  not  exclu- 
sively, for  the  mushns  mentioned  by  Marco  Polo  are  expressively 
stated  to  have  been  woven  of  '"'  gold  and  silk."  The  conquests  of 
the  Saracens  and  their  successors,  the  Turks,  extended  the  use  of 
cottons  over  a  great  part  of  Europe,  Asia,  and  Africa. 

It  is  a  fact  (not  generally  known)  that  Colmnbus  found  the 
aborigines  of  America  clothed  in  cotton  fabrics.*  It  was  long  be- 
lieved by  the  learned  that  the  ancient  Egyptians  were  acquainted 
with  the  manufacture  of  cotton  ;  and  that  the  "  white  works," 
mentioned  by  the  prophet  Isaiah,  were  composed  of  this  material. 
Herodotus,  in  the  fifth  century  before  Christ,  distinctly  asserts  that 
the  Indians  wore  cotton  ;  "  They  possess  hkewdse,"  says  the  same 
historian,  "  a  kind  of  plant,  which  instead  of  fruit,  produces  wool, 
of  a  finer  and  better  quality  than  that  of  sheep  ;  and  of  this  mate- 
rial the  Indians  manufacture  their  clothing."  Nearchus,  the  ad- 
mual  to  whom  Alexander  entrusted  the  survey  of  the  Indus,  men- 
tions both  the  plain  cottons,  and  the  figured  chintzes  of  the  Indians, 
and  the  geographer  Strabo,  who  was  cotemporary  with  the  Christian 
era,  records,  that  in  his  day,  cotton  plants  were  grown,  and  cotton 
cloth  manufactured,  in  Susiana,  a  province  at  the  head  of  the  Per- 
sian gulf  Phny,  who  lived  rather  more  than  half  a  century  after 
Strabo,  is  the  first  writer  who  mentions  the  growth  of  the  cotton 
plant  in  Egypt ;  "  The  upper  part  of  Egypt,"  he  says,  "  verging 
towards  Arabia,  produces  a  shrub  which  some  persons  call  gossy- 
pium,  but  a  greater  number  Xylon,  and  fi-om  this  the  textile  fabrics 
called  Xylina  are  manufactured.  It  is  small  and  bears  a  fruit 
somewhat  like  a  filbert ;  a  downy  wool  found  in  the  interior  is 


*  See  Irving's  Life  of  Columbus,  (abridged  edition,)  pages  63—173,  and  219. 


INTRODUCTION.  11 

Spun  into  thread  ;  there  are  no  fabrics  to  be  preferred  to  these  for 
whiteness  or  softness  ;  the  garments  made  of  this  material  are  far 
the  most  acceptable  to  the  Egyptian  priests."  The  same  naturahst, 
mentions  the  "  wool  bearing  trees"  of  the  island  of  Tylus  in  the 
Persian  gulf,  and  says  that  they  bear  a  fruit  like  a  gourd,  and  of 
the  size  of  a  quince  {cotonei  mali.) 

"  In  India,"  says  a  learned  writer,  "  women  of  all  castes  prepare 
the  cotton  thread  for  the  weaver,  spinning  the  thread  on  a  piece  of 
wire,  or  a  very  thin  rod  of  polished  iron  with  a  ball  of  clay  at  one 
end  ;  this  they  turn  round  with  the  left  hand,  and  supply  the  cotton 
with  the  right,  (hke  the  ancient  inhabitants  of  Nodville  ;)  the 
thread  is  then  wound  upon  a  stick  or  pole,  and  sold  to  the  mer- 
chants or  weavers  ;  for  the  coarser  thread  the  women  make  use  of 
a  wheel  very  similar  to  that  of  the  English  spinster,  though  upon 
a  smaller  construction.  The  mother  of  a  family,  in  some  in- 
stances, will  procure  as  much  as  from  $1,75  to  $2,2.5,  a  month,  by 
spinning  cotton.  The  tanties  or  weavers  are  in  six  divisions,  which 
have  no  intercourse  with  each  other,  so  as  to  visit  or  intermarry. 
They  lay  the  frame  of  their  loom  on  the  ground,  and  sit  with  their 
feet  hanging  down  in  a  hole  cut  in  the  earth. 

"The  coarse  cloths  worn  by  the  natives  are  made  in  almost  every 
village.  At  the  Dhaku  factory  some  years  ago,  cloths  to  the  value 
of  80  lacks  of  rupees  were  bought  by  the  East  India  Coinpany  in 
one  year  ;  at  Shantee-pooru  the  purchases  in  some  years  amount 
to  12  or  15  lacks  ;  at  Maldu  to  nearly  the  same  sum,  and  at  other 
places  from  6  to  12  lacks.  Mushns  are  there  made  which  sell  at 
100  rupees  a  piece.  At  two  places  in  Bengal,  Sonar-ga  and  Vick- 
num-pooru,  muslins  are  made  by  a  few  families  so  exceedingly  fine, 
that  four  months  are  required  to  w6ave  one  piece,  which  sells  at 
from  400  to  500  rupees.  When  this  mushn  is  laid  on  the  grass, 
and  the  dew  has  fallen  upon  it,  it  is  no  longer  discernable.  The 
wool,  or  rather  hair,  which  grows  upon  the  Bengal  sheep  is  so  short 
and  coarse  that  a  warm  garment  can  scarcely  be  manufactured 
from  it."* 

"  Of  the  exquisite  degree  of  perfection,"  says  the  eloquent  histo- 
riant  of  British  India,  "  to  which  the  Hindoos  have  carried  the  pro- 
ductions of  the  loom,  it  would  be  idle  to  offer  any  description.  No 
modern  nation  can  vie  in  the  delicacy  and  fineness  of  its  cotton  tex- 


*  A  View  of  the  History,  &c.,  of  the  Hindoos,  by  William  Ward,  of  Se- 
rampore,  third  edition,  1820,  vol.  iii.  pp.  125—7. 
t  Forbes. 


12  INTRODUCTION. 

tures  with  Hindostan.  It  is  observed,  at  the  same  time,  by  intelli- 
gent travellers,  that  this  is  the  only  art  which  the  original  inhabi- 
tants of  that  country  have  carried  to  any  considerable  degree  of 
perfection.  To  the  skill  of  the  Hindoo  in  this  branch  of  industry 
several  causes  contributed  ;  his  climate  and  soil  conspired  to  furnish 
him  with  an  abundance  of  the  raw  materials,  and  its  manufacture 
is  a  sedentary  employment,  in  harmony  with  the  dislike  of  locomo- 
tion generated  by  the  atmospheric  temperature.  It  requii'es  patience, 
of  which  he  has  an  inexhaustible  fund  ;  it  requires  httle  bodily 
exertion,  of  which  he  is  always  exceedingly  sparing ;  and  the 
finer  the  tissue  the  more  slender  the  force  which  he  is  caUed  upon 
to  apply  ;  the  weak  and  delicate  frame  of  the  Hindoo,  moreover,  is 
accompanied  with  an  acuteness  of  external  sense,  particularly  of 
touch,  which  is  altogether  unrivalled,  and  the  iiexibility  of  his 
fingers  is  equally  remarkable  ;  the  hand  of  the  Hindoo,  therefore, 
constitutes  an  organ  adapted  to  the  finest  operations  of  the  loom,  in 
a  degree  which  is  almost  or  altogether  peculiar  to  himself." 

•'  A  people,"  says  Orme,  "  born  under  a  sun  too  sultry  to  admit 
the  exercises  and  fatigues  necessary  to  form  a  robust  nation,  will, 
naturally,  from  the  weakness  of  their  bodies  (especially  if  they  have 
few  wants)  endeavour  to  obtain  their  scanty  livelihood  by  the 
easiest  labours  ;  it  is  from  hence,  perhaps,  that  the  manufactures 
of  cloth  are  so  multiplied  in  Hindostan ;  spinning  and  weaving 
are  the  slightest  tasks  that  a  man  can  be  set  to,  (?)  and  the  num- 
bers that  do  nothing  else  in  this  country  are  exceedingly  great." 

Let  us  beg  our  reader's  indulgence  for  these  frequent  diversions 
from  the  thread  of  our  narrative.  He  will,  perchance,  bear  them 
more  patiently,  if  he  keeps  in  mind  that  they  are  necessary  to  our 
design,  that  our  first  aim  is  to  inform,  not  to  amuse,  and  that  in 
reading,  as  in  every  worthy  employment,  the  highest  and  almost 
only  value  of  amusement,  is  to  relieve  the  mind  and  to  prepare  it 
for  graver  pursuits.  If  the  reader  will  remember  this,  we  see  not 
what  should  prevent  us  from  travelling  on,  quietly  and  happily 
together,  to  the  end  of  our  journey.  With  this  fair  understanding 
we  resume  our  narrative  where  we  left  it. 

Bishop  Doane,  of  New  Jersey,  in  a  letter  to  a  friend  in  this  city, 
gives  a  most  interesting  account  of  the  remarkable  inscriptions 
found  on  some  ancient  monuments  near  Adon,  on  the  coast  of  Ha- 
dramant  (Arabia,)  and  first  deciphered  by  the  Rev.  C.  Forster,  of 
Great  Britain.  These  records,  it  is  said,  restore  to  the  world  its  ear- 
liest written  language,  and  carry  us  back  to  the  time  of  Jacob,  and 
within  500  years  of  the  flood. 


INTRODUCTION.  13 

The  inscriptions  are  in  three  parts.  The  longest  is  of  ten  lines, 
engraved  on  a  smooth  piece  of  rock  forming  one  side  of  the  terrace 
at  Hisn  Ghorab.  Then  there  are  three  short  lines,  found  on  a 
small  detached  rock  on  the  summit  of  the  little  hill.  There  are 
also  two  lines  found  near  the  inscriptions,  lower  down  the  terrace. 
They  all  relate  to  one  transaction,  an  incident  in  Adite  history. 
The  tribe  of  Ad  according  to  Mr.  Sale,  were  descended  from  Ad  the 
son  of  Aws  or  Uz,  the  son  of  Aram,  the  son  of  Shem,  the  son  of 
Noah.  The  event  recorded  is  the  route  and  entire  destruction  of 
the  sons  of  Ac,  an  Arab  tribe,  by  the  Aws  or  tribe  of  Ad,  whom 
they  invaded.  In  Mr.  Forster's  book  fac  similes  are  given  of  the 
inscription  ;  the  Aditie  and  the  Hamyaritie  alphabet ;  and  a  glos- 
sary containing  every  word  in  them,  its  derivation,  and  its  explana- 
tion ;  with  notes  of  copious  illustration  upon  every  point  which 
they  involve.     The  first  inscription  of  ten  lines  is  thus  translated  : 

We  dwelt,  living  long  luxuriously  in  the  zananas  of  this  spacious  mansion ;  our  con- 
dition exempt  from  misfortune  and  adversity.     Rolled  in  through  our  channel. 

The  sea,  swelling  against  our  castle  with  angry  surge ;  our  fountains  flowed  with 
murmuring  fall,  above 

The  lofty  palms  ;  whose  keepers  planted  dry  dates  in  our  valley  date-grounds ;  they 
sowed  the  arid  rice. 

We  hunted  the  young  mountain-goats  and  the  young  hares,  with  gins  and  snares ; 
beguiling  we  drew  forth  the  fishes. 

We  walked  with  slow,  proud  gait,  in  needle-tcorked,  many-coloured  silk  vestments,  in 
whole  silks,  in  grass-green  chequered  robes  .' 

Over  us  presided  kings,  far  removed  from  baseness,  and  stern  chastisers  of  reprobate 
and  wicked  men.     They  noted  down  for  us  according  to  the  doctrine  of  Heber, 

Good  judgments,  written  in  books  to  be  kept ;  and  we  proclaimed  our  belief  in  mira- 
cles, in  the  resurrection,  in  the  return  into  the  nostrils  of  the  breath  of  life. 

Made  an  inroad  robbers,  and  would  do  us  violence  ;  we  rode  forth,  we  and  our  gen- 
erous youth,  with  stifi'  and  sharp-pointed  spears  ;  rushing  onward. 

Proud  champions  of  our  families  and  wives  ;  fighting  vahantly  upon  coursers  with  long 
necks,  dun-coloured,  iron  gray,  and  bright  bay. 

With  out  swords  still  wounding  and  piercing  our  adversaries,  until  charging  home,  we 
conquered  and  crushed  this  refuse  of  mankind. 

The  short  inscription  in  three  Unes  reads  thus  : 

With  hostile  haste,  the  men  of  crime 

We  assailed  ;  onward  rushed 

Our  horses,  and  trampled  them  under  foot. 

The  two  line  inscription,  which  is  under  the  long  inscription,  in 
the  terrace,  is  as  follows  : 

Divided  into  parts,  and  inscribed  from  right  to  left,  and  marked  with  points,  this  song 

of  triumph,  Sarash  Dzerahh. 
Transpierced,  and  hunted  down,  and  covered  their  faces  with  blackness,  Aws  the  Beni  Ac. 

On  the  subject  of  these  inscriptions,  Mr.  Forster,  in  his  dedication 
of  his  book  to  the  Ajchbisliop  of  Canterbury,  thus  remarks : 


14  INTRODUCTION. 

"What  Job  (who,  hving  in  the  opposite  quarter  of  Arabia,  amid 
the  sands  of  the  great  Northern  desert,  had  no  lasting  material 
within  reach  on  which  to  perpetuate  his  thoughts,)  so  earnestly 
desired,  stands  here  reaUzed."  "  Oh  that  my  words  were  now 
written  !  Oh  that  they  were  printed  in  a  book  !  That  (hke  the 
kindred  creed  of  the  lost  tribe  of  Ad)  they  were  graven  with  an 
iron  pen,  and  lead,  in  the  rock  for  ever.  (For  mine  is  a  better  and 
brighter  revelation  than  theirs.)  For  I  know  that  my  Redeemer 
liveth,  and  that  he  shall  stand  at  the  latter  day  upon  the  earth  ; 
and  though,  after  my  skin,  worms  destroy  this  body,  yet  in  the 
flesh  shall  I  see  God  :  whom  I  shall  see  for  myself,  and  mine  eyes 
shall  behold,  and  not  another." 

But  it  is  not  the  antiquity  of  these  monuments,  however  high, 
which  constitutes  their  value  :  it  is  the  precious  central  truths  of 
revealed  religion  which  they  record  and  which  they  have  handed 
down  from  the  first  ages  of  the  post-diluvian  world,  that  raise  them 
above  all  price.  Viewed  in  this  respect,  they  strike  at  the  very  root 
of  scepticism,  and  leave  not  even  his  own  hollow  ground  beneath 
the  feet  of  the  unbeliever.  For,  if  wdiat  the  infidel  vainly  would 
bring  into  the  question,  as  originating  with  Christianity,  stands  here 
registered  as  the  primeval  faith  of  mankind,  there  is  an  end  at 
once,  to  the  idle  sophistry  of  unbelief."'  "  The  inscription  on  the 
rock  of  Kisn  Ghorab.  a  contemporary  witness  of  the  failli  of  the 
most  ancient  of  the  old  Arabians,  changes  the  state  of  things, 
placing  be5'^ond  the  cavils  of  scepticism  itself,  at  once,  the  fact  and 
the  purity  of  their  belief  in  the  scriptural  doctrine  of  the  resurrection  ; 
and  presenting  to  the  eye  this  great  Gospel  truth,  (to  borrow  the  lan- 
guage of  Mr.  Burke),  covered  wnth  the  awful  hoar  of  innumerable  ages. 

"  It  appears,  says  his  Holiness  Pope  Alexander  VI.  that  the  world 
was  first  indebted  to  one  Arkite  Ghiden  Ghelen,  an  extremely  in- 
genious artizan  of  Nodville,  for  the  first  regularly  manufactured 
piece  of  cloth  ever  produced  on  the  surface  of  this  terrestrial  globe ; 
and  although  it  was  akin  to  what  we  at  this  day  and  generation 
call  matting,  and  produced  by  twisting  and  interlacing  leaf  stems 
and  fibres  together  ;  yet  the  workmanship  cannot  be  surpassed  by 
the  best  manufacturers  of  Bolting  Cloths  of  the  present  day." 
From  this  it  would  appear  that  his  holiness  had  a  sample  of  the 
cloth  actually  in  his  possession.  Perhaps  sewing  the  fig  leaves  as 
mentioned  in  the  book  of  Genesis  has  reference  to  the  same  process, 

"  An  obvious  improvement  on  the  garment  of  leaves,  proceeds  his  Ho- 
liness, which  w^as  suggested  by  twisting  the  peel  of  rushes  into  fine 
strings  by  which  means  superior  textures  w^ere  produced   (See  Fig. 


INTRODUCTION.  15 

13  ;)  but  this  improvement  was  not  adopted  generally,  in  the  part  of 
the  country  of  which  we  speak,  till  after  the  death  of  Methuselah. 

It  did  not  escape  the  notice  of  the  mat  weavers,  that  theii-  work 
was  rendered  more  flexible  and  agreeable  to  the  wearer  (particularly 
for  under  garments,)  by  the  use  of  a  finer  fibre,  and  accordingly  we 
find  that  numerous  trials  were  actually  made,  with  the  fibres  of 
various  kinds  of  plants,  such  as  those  of  the  hemp  and  flax 
species." 

It  is  curious  how  the  descendants  of  our  first  parents  obtained  the 
knowledge  of  spinning  flax  into  thread.  We  are  credibly  informed 
that  it  was  by  superjiatural  agency.  We  are  indeed  told  by  W. 
Cooke  Taylor  of  Trinity  College,  Dublin,  that  a  tradition  exists  in 
Ireland,  which  goes  far  to  prove  that  spinning  was  first  effectually 
practised  in  that  country ;  but  we  disregard  such  testimony,  as  we 
have  found  the  true  and  original  story,  from  which  the  Irish  one  is 
evidently  copied.  This  discovery  we  have  made  in  the  collection 
of  Sir  Henry  Hunlock,  and  we  think  it  right  to  give  his  version, 
which  is  as  follows. 

"  There  were  once  an  old  woman  and  her  daughter  who  lived  at 
the  side  of  a  hill,  (not  under  a  hill,  as  the  Hibernian  would  fain 
have  it)  in  the  midst  of  a  forest,  near  Nodville.  They  were  very 
poor,  and  their  only  support  was  obtained  from  selling  the  thread 
which  the  daughter  spun  with  her  spindle  and  distaff.  During  the 
long  winter  when  the  roads  were  so  bad  that  merchants  of  the  sur- 
rounding nations  could  not  come  to  purchase  the  thread.  The 
daughter,  who  was  one  of  the  most  lovely  creatures  on  earth,  worked 
without  cessation,  in  order  that  she  might  have  enough  of  thread 
when  the  spring  market  came  to  enable  her  to  purchase  a  cloak  for 
her  mother  and  a  scarlet  shawl  for  herself,  in  order  that  they  might 
be  properly  attired  while  attending  their  devotions.  (Where  these 
shawls  and  cloaks  were  manufactured  is  a  question  for  hierologists 
to  solve.) 
"It  so  happened  that  the  king  of  that  country,  whose  name  was 
Zannkul  K.  Euzen,  had  an  only  son,  who  while  out  one  day  deer 
hunting,  went  astray  in  the  forest  of  Akiel,  and  called  at  the 
widow's  cottage  to  enquire  the  way.  He  was  greatly  struck  with 
the  girl's  beauty  and  not  less  with  the  numerous  hanks  of  yarn 
which  lay  upon  the  floor  of  the  cottage,  and  equally  attested  her 
skiU  and  industry.  He  asked  how  it  happened  that  she  had  col- 
lected such  an  immense  pile,  and  the  old  woman,  whose  name  was 
Zabozok,  replied  that  her  daughter  had  spun  the  whole  in  a  week. 
"  In  a  week  !"  exclaimed  the  astonished  prince,  "  if  this  be  true,  I 


16  INTRODUCTION. 

have  found  a  '  gal'  more  worthy  of  my  attachment  than  any  other 
in  the  whole  country.  I  will  send  you  a  load  of  flax,  and  if  she 
has  it  done  by  the  end  of  a  week.  I  will,  without  any  other  proof 
of  her  merit,  choose  her  as  my  bride  ;  but  if  not,  I  will  have  you 
both  cut  in  pieces  and  thrown  to  the  cormorants  and  loons,  for  de- 
ceiving the  son  of  your  sovereign." 

"On  the  very  next  day  a  long  train  of  camels,  laden  with  flax, 
stood  before  the  door  of  the  cottage,  and  the  drivers  having  un- 
loaded them  told  the  girl  that  she  must  spin  this  quantity  in  a  week, 
or  prepare  for  death.  "When  they  departed  her  poor  heart  was 
crushed  with  despair.  She,  however,  was  unwilling  to  reproach 
her  mother,  even  by  a  look  ;  but  she  went  into  the  forest,  and  sit- 
ting down  under  a  tree,  began  bitterly  to  bewail  her  sad  fate. 
AVhile  she  was  thus  weeping  and  lamenting,  a  decrepit  old  man 
came  up  and  enquired  the  cause  of  her  tears,  and  in  reply  she  told 
him  the  whole  story.  "  Do  not  weep,  daughter,"  he  said,  "  I  will 
execute  every  one  of  the  tasks  imposed  upon  you  by  the  prince, 
provided  that  you  Mdll  either  give  me  your  eldest  son,  when  he  is 
twelve  months  and  a  day  old.  or  that  you  shall  m  the  intervening 
time  find  out  my  name."  She  agreed  at  once  to  the  terms.  The 
old  man,  by  some  mysterious  agency,  conveyed  away  the  flax,  and 
about  an  hour  before  the  time  appointed  for  the  prince's  arrival, 
{which  was  half  i^ast  five  o'' clock  in  the  Qnorjiing)  returned  with 
the  finest  and  best  twisted  thread  that  had  ever  been  seen  in  Nod- 
ville.  The  prince,  according  to  his  promise,  married  the  girl,  and 
conveyed  her  with  her  mother  to  the  palace,  which  stood  upon  a 
beautiful  rising  piece  of  ground  about  \  oi  ^  mile  from  the  city, 
and  overlooking  it.  (This  palace  must  have  been  a  very  magnifi- 
cent building,  as  it  cost  rather  more  than  eleven  and  a  quarter 
talents  of  gold.) 

"Every  Monday  m.orning  before  sunrise  the  prince  gave  out  to 
his  beloved  the  quantity  of  flax  which  he  expected  to  be  spun  dur- 
ing the  week,  and  every  Saturday  night  the  yarn  was  made  ready 
for  him  by  the  mysterious  old  man.  At  length  the  princess  became 
the  mother  of  a  beautiful  boy,  and  the  thoughts  of  the  bargain  she 
had  made  almost  drove  her  to  distraction.  Every  efllbrt  she  made 
to  discover  the  name  of  the  wonderful  spinner  utterly  failed,  and 
he  at  every  visit  reminded  her  that  the  time  was  near  when  he 
would  have  the  right  to  claim  her  child. 

"One  evening  as  she  sat  oppressed  with  melancholy,  her  husband, 
who  had  just  returned  from  hunting,  enquired  the  cause  of  her  sad- 
ness, but  she  was  unable  to  answer  him  a  word.     ••  Come  my  love," 


INTRODUCTION.  17 

said  he,  "  do  not  be  cast  down,  and  I  will  entertain  you  with  an 
account  of  a  very  surprising  incident  which  occurred  to  me  this 
very  day.  I  lost  my  way  while  pursuing  a  fine  stag  which  ran 
towards  the  great  rocks  beyond  the  forest.  While  searching  for 
his  lurking  place,  I  thought  I  heard  a  human  voice,  and  following 
the  direction  of  the  sound,  came  to  a  cave,  where  I  saw  an  old  man, 
who  did  not  notice  my  approach,  so  deeply  was  he  engaged  in  a 
strange  sort  of  labour :  he  was  spinning,  not  as  you  do  with  the 
distaff,  but  with  wheels  which  flew  round  as  rapidly  as  lightning, 
and  gave  out  thread  like  water  falling  from  a  mountain  torrent ; 
and  all  the  while  he  never  ceased  singing. 

My  mistress,  little  she  knows  my  name, 
Which  shan't  be  forgot,  which  shan't  be  forgot, 
When  a  prince  as  heir  to  the  fortune  I  claim 
Of  Wallotty  Trot,  Wallotty  Trot. 
I'll  come  at  the  end  of  a  year  and  a  day. 
And  take  the  young  prince,  my  heir,  away. 
With  my  whack  !  she  goes ! 
While  nobody  knows ; 
My  trusty  machine, 
In  this  cave  unseen : 
Here  is  the  spot 
For  Wallotty  Trot! 

"The  princess  made  her  husband  repeat  the  rhymes  several  times, 
until  she  was  sure  that  she  could  remember  them  perfectly,  and 
waited  with  confidence  for  the  return  of  the  old  man.  He  came  at 
the  appointed  time,  and  claimed  the  child.  '  Stop  neighbour,'  said 
she,  '  there  goes  another  word  to  that  bargain.  I  have  found  out 
your  name :  It  is  Wallotty  Trot.'  '  You  have  indeed  detected 
my  name,'  said  he,  '  and  my  business  on  earth  is  well  nigh  finished ; 
but  before  I  depart  I  am  bound  to  tell  you  the  secrets  of  my  art.' 
So  saying,  he  went  into  the  forest,  and  in  a  few  seconds  returned 
with  his  wheels.  He  then  taught  the  lady  their  use,  showing  her 
that  she  could  spin  a  thousand  times  more  with  them  than  she 
could  accomphsh  by  means  of  the  distaff ;  and  then  vanished ; 
after  which  he  Avas  never  again  seen  in  that  part  of  the  world. 

"The  prince  and  princess  taught  this  new  branch  of  industry  to 
their  subjects,  which  so  enriched  them  that  all  the  surrounding 
nations  regarded  them  with  envy  and  admiration." 

These  wheels  are  of  similar  construction  to  those  introduced  into 
Great  Britain  by  Samuel  Crompton,  which  are  known  by  the 
appellation  of  the  '  hall-in-the-wood'  machine.  It  is  unnecessary 
for  us  to  give  drawings  and  descriptions  of  them,  Mr.  Baines  of 

3 


18 


INTRODUCTION. 


Leeds,  and  Dr.  Ure  of  London,  in  their  histories  of  the  progress  of 
the  cotton  manufacture  in  Great  Britain,  having  already  done  so. 
After  the  death  of  Methuselah,  the  art  of  weaving  appears  to 
have  made  considerable  advances  in  many  parts  of  the  East,  and 
particularly  in  China,  India,  and  Persia.  The  first  loom  of  which 
there  is  any  authentic  record  still  in  existence,  is  that  invented  by 
Arkite  Ghiden  Ghelen,  when  a  lad  of  about  seventy  years  of  age  ; 
and  after  having  been  at  great  trouble  and  expense,  we  have  suc- 
ceeded in  procuring  a  drawing  of  it,  copied  from  an  ancient  parch- 
ment scroll,  found  among  the  curiosities  of  Sesac,  founder  of  the 
Egyptian  dynasty,  (who  reigned  thirty-four  years.)  But  from  the 
dilapidated  state  of  the  document,  and  the  draughtsman  (Alexis 
Kersivenus  of  Alexandria)  not  being  a  weaver  hunself,  we  fear  it  is 
not  in  every  particular  hke  the  original.  This  scroll  appears  (from 
indorsements  on  its  back)  to  have  been  once  in  the  possession  of 
the  emperor  of  China,  Tehng  Ching  Ouang,  from  whom  it  de- 
scended to  Chao  Kong-hi-hi,  his  successor. 

Fis-  A. 


is  a  representation  of  the  loom,  &c.,  which  is  of  vertical  construction, 
and  seems  to  have  been  chiefly  applied  to  the  manufacture  of  plaids 


INTRODUCTION.  19 

and  chequers  ;  the  patterns  of  which  were  most  probably  suggested 
by  the  interlacing  of  bark  or  stripes  of  broad  leaved  plants.  Indeed 
the  modern  plaids  so  obviously  represent  this  origin  of  their  patterns 
that  no  one  except  the  most  sceptical  can  for  a  moment  doubt  the 
correctness  of  this  opinion. 

The  process  of  weaving  in  this  loom  must  have  been  very 
tedious,  and  of  course  the  fabrics  produced  would  be  expensive  in 
the  same  proportion.  The  inventor  does  not  appear  to  have  been 
acquainted  with  any  instrument  analogous  to  the  shuttle,  for  we 
find  from  the  perusal  of  ancient  records  (imperfect  as  they  certainly 
are)  that  some  weavers  drew  the  weft  through  the  web  with  their 
fingers,  and  others  used  an  implement  somewhat  like  a  knitting 
needle,  but  having  a  hook  at  one  end,  similar  to  the  crook  of  a 
shepherd's  staff,  which  doubtless  insinuated  the  first  idea  of  that 
most  useful  instrument. 

The  frame  work  consists  merely  of  two  posts,  each  4^-  inches  in 
diameter,  w^hich  are  indicated  in  the  figure  by  the  letters  BB. 
Between  these  posts  the  yarn  and  cloth  rollers  are  placed.  The 
cloth  roller  C,  may  be  seen  at  the  bottom,  but  the  yarn  roller  at  the 
top  is  not  shown  in  the  drawing,  although  its  proper  position  is 
evident  enough  from  the  manner  in  which  the  warp  threads  DD, 
descend.  Two  persons,  the  one  a  male  and  the  other  a  female, 
are  employed  during  the  operation.  The  former  of  these  is  behind 
the  web,  in  a  standing  attitude,  and  is  looking  as  if  provoked  at 
having  spoiled  some  part  of  his  work,  which,  in  all  probability,  the 
Avoman  in  front  is  adjusting,  to  pacify  the  old  churl ;  perhaps,  how- 
ever, he  is  calling  for  more  weft.  These  are  only  suppositions  of 
ours,  and  the  reader  must  solve  the  vision  for  himself,  in  all  its 
other  phases. 

We  almost  forgot  to  mention  that  young  Teague  Ghelen,  who  is 
playing  on  the  harp,  is  only  3^  years  of  age,  and  seems,  although 
so  young,  to  possess  an  uncommon  share  of  musical  skill.  His  in- 
strument is  one  of  great  tone,  being  far  superior  to  the  Irish  harp  ; 
and  it  does  not  differ  materially  in  its  construction  from  those  made 
by  their  originator,  Tubal  cain.  In  point  of  symmetry,  it  is  not 
surpassed  even  by  Tom  Moore's  No.  1. 

We  would  also  add,  that  the  various  figures  composing  the  border 
of  this  drawing,  cannot  now  be  explained,  at  least  until  we  hear 
from  our  friend,  Lepsius,  to  whom  we  have  written  for  some  infor- 
mation respecting  them. 

We  subjoin  a  few  spirited  verses,  from  a  well  known  author,  in 


20  INTRODUCTION. 

compliment  to  the  inventor  of  this  simple,  but  ingenious  weaving 
apparatus : 

'•  Great  genius  of  the  ancient  times  ! 
A  loom  like  thine  was  well  worth  leaving  ; 
To  thee,  what  are  o\ir  feeble  rhjTnes  ? 
First  master  of  the  art  of  weaving ! 

Between  two  trees  thy  web  was  hung. 
Thy  cloth  beam  nearly  touch'd  the  ground  ; 
While  birds,  enchanted,  sweetly  sung, 
And  fruits,  delicious,  grew  around. 

Thou  breath'd  the  freest  air  of  heaven, 
The  sun,  unclouded,  gave  thee  light; 
No  lamp,  nor  gas  to  thee  was  given ; 
Through  day  thou  work'd,  and  slept  at  night .'" 

{Brien  Dhu  O'  Farrell.) 


We  shall  now  turn  to  examine  some  other  kinds  of  weaving 
machinery.  6cc.,  and  in  doing  so  our  readers  ma}"  rest  assured  that 
our  information  has  been  obtained  from  the  most  correct  sources  ; 
but,  at  the  same  time,  we  do  not  hold  ourself  responsible  for  any 
errors  that  may  have  been  made  by  the  respectable  historian, 
Deioces,  the  first  king  of  the  ]Medes,  from  whom  our  correspondent 
(Alexis  Kersivenus  of  Alexandria)  copied  the  specification  and 
drawing  which  we  are  about  to  present.     *  «  *  * 


'•  While."'  says  his  Majesty,  '•  engaged  "with  state  affairs,  on  the 

ninth  day  of  the  month  Adar,  in  our  royal  palace  at  Ecbatana, 

*  *  s  *  *  *  *    ^^^  from  the 

land  of  Shinar,  who  caUed  liimself  Arphaxad.  came  unto  us  beg- 
ging the  loan  of  our  royal  ears,  while  he  would  describe  the  nature 
of  a  wonderful  engine  of  his  invention,  and  which  the  said  aUen 
pronounced  in  our  hearing  to  be  a  creature  of  surprismg  capacity, 
and  likely  to  add  to  the  welfare  of  our  beloved  subjects.  We,  being 
at  all  times  disposed  to  facilitate  as  much  as  in  us  hes,  so  desirable 
an  object,  of  our  grace  and  clemency  did  lend  unto  the  said  infidel 
the  use  of  our  royal  ears,  thereby  enabling  him  to  approach  within 
nine  cubits  and  a  span  of  our  most  high  Majesty  to  explain  more 
clearly  to  our  perfect  understanding  the  peculiarities  of  the  animal. 


I 


INSERT  FOLDOUT  HERE 


INTRODUCTION.  21 

While  the  barbarian  was  about  to  proceed  with  a  description  of 
his  mechanical  monster,  we  issued  our  mighty  mandate,  caUing 
upon  our  trusty  scribe  and  penman,  Deog,  to  appear  before  us,  and 
to  copy  down  verhaiim  the  whole  of  the  Oration,  as  delivered  with 
fear  and  trembhng  in  our  royal  presence,  by  the  said  heathen, 
whom  at  the  same  time  we  commanded  to  speak  slow,  that  no 
errors  of  judgment  might  be  made.  We  here  give  in  our  most  ex- 
cellent History,  for  the  good  of  our  well  beloved  subjects,  the  words 
as  recorded. 

O  most  noble  Deioces  !  Great  monarch  of  the  Medes,  whose 
laws  change  not !  Much  to  be  dreaded  !  May  it  please  the  King's 
most  excellent  majesty,  I,  an  humble  descendent  of  our  great  father 
Noah,  have  invented,  arranged,  and  worked,  after  having  expe- 
rienced sixty-five  years  of  sore  toil  and  anxiety  of  mind  m  this  vale 
of  tears,  a  weaving  engine  to  be  driven  by  the  power  of  compressed 
air,  and  which,  O  King,  I  now  beg  leave  to  explain. 

May  it  please  your  Majesty, 

My  invention,  with  all  its  combinations,  parts  and  appurtenances, 
is  apphcable,  either  separately,  or  conjointly,  as  the  nature  of  the 
case  may  be,  to  the  manufacture  of  all  sorts  of  cloth,  whether 
plain,  tweeled,  or  figured.  The  arrangement  which  I  propose  to 
employ,  consists  in  improvements  on  a  weaving  apparatus,  invented 
in  the  days  of  Haran,  the  father  of  our  unfortunate  brother  Lot,  who 
once  lived  in  Ur  of  the  Chaldees,     *  *  *  * 

*,  and  which  loom  or  contrivance  bore  the  title  of  '  Ghelen's 
vertical  mat  loom.'  But  it  is  unnecessary  to  enter  into  a  description 
of  it,  as  the  looms  constructed  according  to  the  present  improve- 
ments have  such  different  properties  from  the  said  Ghelen's,  as  to 
have  very  little  in  common  therewith,  excepting  in  the  circumstance 
of  the  cloth,  during  its  formation,  extending  in  a  vertical  plane. 

The  main  object  of  the  present  improvements  is  to  enable  me  to 
weave  four,  or  more  webs  at  one  operation ;  and  yet  my  machine 
contains  but  one  lay,  with  suitable  contrivances  for  moving  it,  alter- 
nately, upwards  and  downwards. 

And  may  it  please  the  King, 

Figure  B,  represents  a  vertical  section  of  the  creature,  taken 
transversely  through  the  lay.  A,  which  is  placed  in  a  horizontal  posi- 
tion, with  two  reecjs  B  B,  in  it,  one  extending  across  the  loom  at 
the  front,  and  the  other  at  the  back.  Each  of  these  reeds  is  adapt- 
ed to  weave  two,  or  more  pieces  of  cloth,  from  one  of  the  warps,  C  C, 
each  of  which  warps,  by  means  of  a  division  in  the  centre  of  its  reed, 
and  an  extraordinary  arrangement  of  the  headles,  is  divided  into 


22  INTRODUCTION. 

two,  or  more  distinct  sheds,  through  which  shuttles  are  to  be  thrown, 
leaving  a  weft  thread,  or  threads  (as  the  case  may  be)  in  each  of  the 
sheds. 

And,  may  it  please  the  King, 

The  warps  of  these  webs,  are  to  be  wound  upon  two  rollers  D  D, 
placed  at  the  bottom  of  the  loom,  and  parallel  to  each  other :  the 
threads  which  proceed  from  them,  are  conducted  upwards  through 
the  headles,  which  are  extended  horizontally,  then  into  the  reeds 
B  B.  The  threads  so  proceeding  from  each  warp  roller,  are  now 
divided  into  two,  or  more  series,  for  weaving  distinct  pieces  of  cloth  ; 
and  for  this  purpose,  the  surface  of  the  dents  of  each  reed,  is  divided 
by  means  of  a  long  narrow  ruler,  (which  is  secured  across  the  dents) 
extending  the  entire  length  of  the  reed,  so  that  the  surface  which 
the  dents  present,  is  divided  into  two,  or  more  parallel  shuttle  races. 
There  are  in  all  four,  or  more  of  these  races,  for  the  passage  of  as 
many  shuttles,  which  are  to  be  thrown  (with  great  precision)  by  a 
simultaneous  motion,  through  the  several  sheds  open  for  their  re- 
ception. The  warp  threads,  as  they  come  from  their  respective  rol- 
lers, are  conducted  up  through  these  shuttle  races.  The  headles 
E  E,  are  tied  across  the  loom  from  front  to  back,  beneath  the  reeds, 
and  every  headle  has  two,  or  more  eyes  in  it,  at  suitable  distances 
apart,  to  receive  as  many  threads  of  warp,  one  of  them  belonging 
to  the  front  warp  roller  and  front  reed,  and  the  other  to  the  back 
set.  Each  headle  operates  upon  two,  or  more  of  the  webs,  which 
are  to  be  woven  at  once  ;  and  by  working  them,  all  the  warps  will 
be  divided,  and  opened  into  sheds,  at  the  same  instant.  The  lay, 
with  its  reeds,  remains  stationary,  at  its  lowest  descending  point, 
while  the  shuttles  are  passing  through  the  sheds  ;  but,  immediately 
after  they  have  made  their  exit,  it  begins  to  ascend,  carrying  up  with 
it  the  weft  threads.  The  sheds  are  all  closed  by  a  suitable  action 
of  the  headles,  while  the  lay  is  ascending,  and  when  it  reaches  its 
highest  position,  the  reeds  knock  up  all  the  weft  threads  between 
the  closed  warp. 

And,  may  it  please  the  King, 

The  fabric  as  it  is  woven  is  drawn  upwards,  and  wound  round 
the  cloth  rollers  F  P,  one  at  the  back,  and  the  other  at  the  front  of 
the  loom,  and  corresponding  to  the  warp  rollers.  The  accessaries, 
and  new  improvements  which  are  proposed  to  be  applied  to  vertical 
air-looms,  according  to  my  invention,  for  the  purpose  of  weaving 
four,  or  more  webs  at  once,  in  the  same  machine,  are  as  follows. 

1st.  In  order  to  avoid  stopping  tlje  motion  of  the  loom  when  one 
or  more  of  the  weft  threads  break,  or  become  exhausted,  a  few  spare 


INTRODUCTION.  23 

shuttles  are  to  be  lodged  in  suitable  receptacles,  which  are  so  ar- 
ranged, that  the  mere  breaking  of  a  weft  thread,  will  cause  a 
change  of  shuttle  instantaneously,  (by  the  substitution  of  a  spare 
one  in  its  stead.)  The  method  by  which  I  accomplish  the  opera- 
tion is  this : 

On  a  weft  thread  breaking  or  becoming  exhausted,  the  corres- 
ponding shuttle  will  be  jerked  out  of  the  lay,  into  a  sluice,  made 
through  the  back  side  of  the  machine,  and  from  thence  conducted 
to  the  '  catcher,'  at  the  lower  end  of  the  weaving  room,  or  at  some 
other  convenient  place,  (as  the  case  may  be)  where  it  is  refitted 
with  a  new  cop  or  quill,  put  into  what  is  generally  designated 
'  Nahor's  air  fly,'  in  which  is  a  cylinder  containing  a  moderate 
quantity  of  compressed  air.  On  the  shuttle  being  entered  at  the 
top  of  the  fly,  (exactly  in  the  same  way  that  bullets  are  dropped 
into  '  Perkin's  steam  gun')  it  descends  into  the  return  conductor, 
where  the  end  of  a  rod,  not  unlike  the  suction-rod  of  one  of  your 
Majesty's  garden  pumps,  is  brought  to  bear  against  it ;  but,  that 
the  point  of  the  shuttle  may  not  be  injured  by  the  sudden  action  of 
the  propeller,  the  latter  is  hollowed  out  to  fit  the  end  of  the  shuttle, 
to  about  two-thirds  of  the  nib's  length,  and  the  shoulder  thus 
formed  will  prevent  any  little  mishap  of  that  nature,  which  might 
otherwise  occur.  The  shuttle  being  thus  made  ready,  the  cop 
tender  (bobbin  winder)  tips  the  '  let  off','  whereupon  that  shuttle 
speeds  its  way  to  replace  some  one  of  its  fellows,  that  has  become 
exhausted,  and  thus  a  uniform  system  of  operation  is  constantly 
kept  up. 

And,  may  it  please  the  King, 

That  if  by  neglect  of  the  cop  tender,  the  receptacles  be  not  pro- 
vided with  spare  shuttles,  nevertheless  the  loom  will  stop  of  its 
own  accord :  the  arrangement  by  which  this  is  effected  is  as 
follows  : 

The  shuttle,  Fig.  C,  is  provided  with  a  spring  dent  1,  the  end  of 
which,  nearest  the  cop  2,  is  made  heavier  than  the  other,  and  is 
kept  raised  by  the  tension  of  the  weft  thread,  when  unbroken  ; 
which  thread  passes  over  the  pin  3,  through  an  opening  (or  eye) 
at  the  end  of  the  detent,  and  over  the  studs  4  and  5,  then  through 
a  hole  at  the  lightest  end,  passing  under  the  pin  6,  and  out  at  the 
eye  7.  Thus,  on  the  breaking  or  failure  of  the  weft  thread,  the 
weightier  end  of  the  detent,  being  no  longer  upheld,  will  lie  on  the 
bottom  of  the  shuttle  elevating  the  other  end,  which  on  entering 
the  box  or  cell,  forces  back  a  projection  that  protrudes  through  an 
openmg  in  the  picker :   and  this  projection  on  being  forced  back, 


24 


INTRODUCTION. 


acts  upon  a  series  of  levers,  which  cause  the  cells  containing  this 
shuttle  and  its  fellows,  to  move  towards  the  right  hand  side  of  the 
loom,  their  places  being  filled  by  the  two  adjoining  cells,  containing 
spare  shuttles.  This  operation  is  repeated  on  the  breaking,  or 
failure,  of  a  weft  thread,  as  many  times,  as  there  are  pairs  of  spare 
shuttles  provided  (say  eleven  times  ;)  but,  if  by  the  neglect  of  the 
tender,  in  not  replenishing  the  cells  with  spare  shuttles,  (as  I  before 
stated,)  the  whole  number  has  been  exhausted,  and  another  change 
is  yet  required,  then,  the  safety  regulator  will,  by  means  of  a  lever, 
draw  out  the  connecting  pins  from  the  lay  arms,  on  the  main 
driving  shaft,  which  pins  keep  this  shaft  attached  to  the  working 
parts  of  the  loom,  and  as  soon  as  this  is  accomplished  motion  will 
be  suspended. 

2d.  And,  may  it  please  the  King, 

The  arrangement  of  the  headles  or  what  is  called  the  mounting 
of  the  loom,  is  so  contrived  as  to  be  suitable  for  weaving  four,  or 
more  webs  of  plain  cloth  at  once  ;  but  it  admits  of  introducing  a 
greater  number  of  headles,  than  the  two  which  are  requisite  for 
plain  weaving ;  and,  in  fact,  the  mechanism  by  which  they  are 
worked  [with  a  slight  variation)  admits  of  weaving  any  kind 
of  tweeled  cloth,  by  means  of  any  convenient  number  of  headles, 

3d.  And  may  it  please  the  King, 

The  loom  is  also  provided  with  substitutes  for  temples,  for  the 
purpose  of  keeping  the  webs  of  cloth  properly  extended,  during  the 
operation  of  weaving  :  they  are  a  sort  of  pincers  J  J,  of  which  there 
are  four,  or  more  pairs,  two,  or  more,  at  each  side  of  the  loom.  Af- 
ter the  shuttles  are  thrown,  while  the  sheds  of  the  warp  are  closing, 
and  the  lay  is  moving  up  towards  the  cloth,  the  jaws  of  all  the  pin- 
cers are  closed  by  the  wedge-like  piece  H,  attached  to  the  rod  I, 
which  moves  the  lay  up  and  down.  This  piece  H  causes  the  two 
rollers  shown  by  the  dots,  to  recede  from  each  other,  and  to  close 
the  pincers  upon  the  selvages.  The  moment  the  picks  of  weft  are 
knocked  up  by  the  reeds,  the  lay  descends,  the  pincers  advance  to- 
wards each  other,  and  their  jaws  are  again  opened,  ready  to  grasp 
their  several  selvages  as  before. 

4th.  And,  may  it  please  the  King, 

The  warp  rollers  DD,  are  loaded  with  only  small  retaining 
weights,  (apphed  as  in  said  Ghelen's  loom)  in  order  that  the  friction 
thereby  produced  may  occasion  but  a  slight  resistance  to  the  rota- 
tion of  the  rollers,  as  the  warp  is  drawn  off  by  the  gradual  forma- 
tion of  the  cloth.  A  ratchet  wheel  is  fixed  upon  one  end  of  each 
warp  roller,  and  two  clicks  are  so  connected  with  the  machinery, 


INTRODUCTION.  25 

which  carries  the  lay  up  and  down,  that  as  it  is  rising  to  knock  up 
the  weft,  and  while  the  sheds  are  closing,  each  of  the  clicks  will  be 
brought  into  the  teeth  of  the  ratchets,  and  will  turn  the  warp  roller 
round  as  much  as  is  necessary  to  wind  it  back  to  a  suitable  tension  ; 
but  as  the  lay  descends  again,  and  the  warp  requires  to  be  opened 
into  sheds,  the  said  clicks  are  withdrawn  by  the  machinery,  from 
the  teeth  of  the  ratchet  wheels,  leaving  them  at  liberty  to  yield  and 
give  off  more  warp.  Each  of  the  cloth  rollers  gathers  up  two  or 
more  pieces  at  once,  and  consequently  it  will  increase  in  size  faster 
than  said  Ghelen's  loom,  which  winds  up  only  one  thickness.  The 
mechanism  for  turning  the  cloth  roller  round  adapts  itself  to  this 
circumstance,  so  as  to  take  up  the  cloth  at  the  same  rate  when  the 
rollers  have  become  larger,  by  the  accumulation  of  cloth  around 
chem,  as  when  they  Avere  smaller.  This  is  effected  by  tiie  follow- 
ing means  : 

They  are  turned  by  the  screws  or  worms  M  M,  taking  into  the 
teeth  of  the  wheels  O  O :  the  screws  or  worms  receive  their  motion 
from  a  ratchet  wheel  N,  affixed  on  the  same  axis :  this  ratchet 
wheel  is  turned  by  four  clicks,  or  drivers,  attached  to  a  lever,  hav- 
ing an  ascending  and  descending  motion.  Tliis  motion  is  regulated 
by  a  rest  that  rises  from  a  rod,  which  is  parallel  with  the  roller,  and 
bears  upon  the  cloth  wound  upon  it,  so  that  as  the  roller  increases 
in  diameter,  the  rest,  being  raised,  will  limit  the  descent  of  the  lever 
above  mentioned,  and  thus  the  cloth  rollers  will  be  turned  with  a 
continually  diminished  speed. 

5th.  And,  may  it  please  the  King, 

By  means  of  other  mechanism  for  changing  shuttles,  the  webs 
may  have  cross  stripes,  of  different  colours  of  weft  yarns,  or  of  dif- 
ferent strength  and  appearance.  For  this  purpose  the  several  sets 
of  spare  shuttles  being  charged  with  different  kinds  of  weft,  will  oc- 
casion like  changes  in  the  web,  so  as  to  produce  cross  stripes,  which 
may,  also,  be  combined  with  longitudinal  stripes  of  various  colours, 
or  strength  of  warp  thread,  or  threads  (as  the  case  may  be)  suitably 
arranged  in  the  previous  operation  of  warping  ;  so  that  by  combin- 
ing cross  and  longitudinal  stripes,  chequered  patterns  may  be  pro- 
duced, which  in  many  respects  differ  from  those  made  in  Ghelen's 
machine.  The  shuttle  boxes,  or  receptacles  for  the  reveral  shuttles, 
which  contain  weft  of  different  colours,  have  as  many  cells,  situated 
one  over  another,  as  are  required  for  the  reception  of  the  several 
sets  of  shuttles  ;  and  they  are  raised  or  lowered  by  means  of  a  se- 
ries of  levers,  suspended  on  the  axis  P,  at  the  top  of  the  loom,  the 
boxes  being  hung,  one  from  each  end  of  a  lever.     These  levers  re- 

4 


26  INTRODUCTION. 

ceives  thek  motion  from  another  series  which  are  operated  upon  hy 
a  revohing  barrel,  placed  above  the  cloth  rollers,  (but  not  shown  in 
the  drawing.)  This  mechanism  raises  or  lowers  the  boxes,  just  as 
much  as  is  necessary,  in  order  to  bring  the  particular  set  of  shuttles 
wanted;  to  a  proper  level  for  being  propelled  through  the  several 
sheds. 

5th     And.  may  it  please  the  King. 

The  above  described  mechanism  can  be  readily  altered,  so  as  to 
operate  with  different  orders  of  succession,  thereby  producing  a 
great  variety  of  patterns  ;  and  also,  with  a  new  plan  of  mounting 
the  headles.  adapted  for  figure  weaving,  combined  with  new  figur- 
ing machinery,  the  four,  or  more  webs,  which  are  to  be  woven  at 
once,  may  have  ornamental  patterns  upon  them  of  the  nature  of 
what  is  termed  •  fancy  weavmg.'  Or.  in  heu  of  the  said  figure 
weaving  machinery,  I  apply  a  peculiar  combination  of  suitable 
parts,  which  receives  the  diversification  of  its  action,  from  a  pattern 
board  X,  which  is  showni  on  a  large  scale,  at  Fig.  D.  Upon  the 
flat  surface  of  this  board  the  design  is  carved  m  relief,  the  parts 
which  are  to  exhibit  the  sundry  colours  bemg  cut  down  to  different 
corresponding  depths.  The  pattern-board  is  now  placed  in  its  situa- 
tion at  the  upper  part  of  the  loom,  as  shown  at  X,  its  carved  sur- 
face being  presented  beneath  the  under  extremities  of  a  row  of 
needles  or  small  slides  S,  which  stand  side  by  side  m  vertical  posi- 
tions. These  needles,  severally,  (at  certain  intervals  of  time)  dur- 
ing the  operation  of  the  loom,  are  let  fall  upon  the  said  carved  sur- 
face, and  by  the  inequalities  of  the  rehef,  some  of  them  are  allowed 
to  drop  lower  than  others.  Those  which  are  sustained  by  the  more 
prominent  part;:  of  the  carving,  are  acted  upon  b}'  a  straight  edge 
or  wle  T,  placed  horizontally  across  all  the  rows ;  which  straight 
edge,  being  taken  backward  when  required  to  act,  comes  in  contact 
with  certain  lateral  prominences  m  the  needles,  so  as  to  push  back 
all  those  which  are  prevented  from  falling,  by  carving  on  the  pat- 
tern-board. Each  needle  is  connected  with,  or  tied  to  a  lever  U, 
which  levers  are  placed  transversely  over  the  loom,  their  back  ends 
bearing  upon  a  fidcrum.  One,  or  more  of  the  headles  are  suspend- 
ed from  each  of  these  levers,  near  to  the  middle  of  its  lengtli ;  and 
all  the  levers  bemg  thus  placed  side  by  side  in  a  row,  at  the  top  of 
the  loom,  their  front  ends  form  a  row  across  the  loom,  until  some 
are  drawn  liack  with  an  endway  motion  upon  their  fulcrum,  by  the 
straight  edge,  T,  acting  upon  their  correspondmg  needles. 

The  front  extremities  of  those  levers  which  are  not  drawn  back, 
are  hfied  up  l>y  the  edge  of  a  horizontal  hftmg  bar  AV,  which  rises 


INTRODUCTION.  27 

upwards,  when  the  sheds  of  warp  are  being  opened  ;  and  in  rising 
tliey  pull  up  those  headles  which  are  connected  to  them,  by  which 
means  a  proper  selection  of  warp  threads,  to  form  the  pattern,  is  ef- 
fected. 

By  the  different  depths  of  carving  on  the  pattern-board  X,  the 
needles  are  thus  divided  into  several  series,  which  are  acted  upon 
successively,  by  the  straight  edge  T,  in  order  to  produce  a  change 
in  the  selection  of  warp  threads.  The  pattern-board  is  fastened 
upon  a  moveable  table  R,  which  is  shifted  either  backwards,  or  for- 
wards (in  a  slow  progressive  manner.)  by  the  pinion  Y,  taking  in- 
to the  rack  Z,  attached  to  the  under  part  of  the  table.  This  pinion 
receives  its  motion  from  two  ratchet  wheels  fastened  on  the  same 
axis,  and  these  wheels  are  turned  by  drivers. 
7th.     And,  may  it  please  the  King, 

Each  time  the  pattern-board  moves,  the  needles  are  raised  and 
let  fall  again,  so  as  to  come  on  a  different  part  of  the  pattern,  by 
which  means  another  selection  is  effected.  As  soon  as  the  pattern 
board  has  been  conducted  along  its  whole  range,  and  the  figure 
transferred  to  the  cloth,  all  the  needles  are  lifted  up  ;  whereupon  the 
board  returns  to  its  first  position,  with  an  instantaneous  movement. 
Should  the  board  have  only  half  the  pattern  intended  to  be  woven, 
carved  upon  it,  as  soon  as  that  is  worked  up  to  its  last  line  or  change 
then,  the  action  is  reversed,  bringing  the  needles  on  the  second  line 
of  the  board,  which  is  now  worked  backward,  with  the  same  speed 
that  it  went  forward,  and  thus  the  other  half  is  produced.  Pat- 
terns consisting  of  two  similar  halves,  need  only  half  the  carving 
of  those  described  in  a  former  instance. 
And,  may  it  please  the  King, 

Instead  of  the  above,  the  pattern  may  be  carved  on  the  circum- 
ference of  a  cyhnder,  which  is  in  all  respects  the  same  as  those 
formerly  constructed  by  our  relation,  Jubal.  the  organ  builder,  (see 
also  Genesis,  iv.  21.)  mounted  on  a  horizontal  axis,  and  turned 
round  with  a  slow  progressive  motion.  If  the  pattern  is  exactly  the 
size  of  the  cyhnder,  as  soon  as  the  latter  has  been  once  passed  un- 
der the  needles,  it  will  return  to  its  first  position ;  but,  if  only  half 
the  pattern  covers  it,  (the  other  half  being  a  repetition  of  the  first) 
then,  as  soon  as  it  has  made  one  revolution,  it  returns  in  an  oppo- 
site direction,  and  so  on,  alternately. 

To  produce  a  variation  in  the  succession  of  the  changes  of  the 
shuttles,  a  portion  of  the  carved  surface  of  the  pattern-board,  or 
else  a  distinct  pattern-board,  must  be  provided,  and  carved  with  al- 
ternate elevations  and  depressions,  for  hfting  their  several  elbow 


28  INTRODUCTION. 

levers,  and  the  levers  below,  which  are  connected  with  stop  detents,  for 
detaining  them,  and  determining  their  positions.  The  revolving 
barrel,  before  mentioned,  may  also  be  applied  for  effecting  the  rais- 
ing or  lowering  of  the  shuttle  boxes,  in  a  proper  manner  to  change 
the  shuttles,  and  produce  cross  stripes ;  as  the  position  into  which 
the  revolving  barrel,  is  turned  and  detained,  previous  to  ever)^  suc- 
ceeding pick  of  weft,  determines  which  of  the  ditferent  colours  of 
weft,  shall  be  thrown. 

And,  may  it  please  the  King, 

The  mechanism  of  the  figure  weaving  loom  will  be  simpler,  if 
the  plain  or  tweeled  ground  of  the  cloth  is  produced  by  a  distinct 
apparatus.  To  effect  this,  those  headles  which  belong  to  the  yarns 
that  are  to  form  the  warp  of  the  plain  ground,  are  united  to  a  few 
lams  (thin  shafts  of  wood  or  iron)  so  that  by  drawing  up  one  of 
these  a  number  of  headles  may  be  raised  together  with  one  motion. 
The  lams  are  to  be  suspended  from  horizontal  levers  at  the  top  of 
the  loom,  in  a  similar  manner  to  the  levers  U,  and  disposed  in  the 
same  row. 

It  was  before  stated  that  only  one  or  two  headles  were  suspended 
from  each  lever  ;  but,  by  means  of  the  lams,  several  may  be  sus- 
pended from  each  of  them.  These  are  provided  with  needles  simi- 
lar to  the  others,  and  which  might  lie  actuated  by  bemg  dropped 
upon  a  suitable  part  of  the  surface  of  the  pattern  board  ;  but,  as  this 
would  only  produce  a  repetition  of  a  simple  series  of  changes,  /pre- 
fer  to  siihstitxite  instead,  a  small  cylinder  or  revolving  barrel  the 
surface  of  which  is  carved  into  a  series  of  suitable  prominences  and 
depressions  in  order  to  actuate  the  needles,  in  a  similar  manner  to 
the  pattern  cylinder  before  described. 

And,  may  it  please  the  King, 

Whereas,  cylindrical  barrels,  studded  with  projecting  pins,  similar 
to  the  organ  barrels  of  said  Jubal,  have  been  used  in  different  parts 
of  your  most  gracious  Majesty's  dominions,  for  other  jmrposes  than 
that  to  which  I joropose  to  apply  them,  I,  therefore,  make  no  claim 
to  the  invention  of  such  barrels,  except  when  the  same  are  apphed 
to  my  figure  weaving  machinery,  of  the  kind  before  described,  "vdth 
needles  and  other  necessary  parts,  for  weaving  four  or  more  webs 
at  once,  in  the  same  vertical  power  loom  ;  and  also  when  the  sur- 
face of  said  barrels  are  carved  with  different  heights  and  depths,  at 
all  parts  which  are  to  be  represented  on  the  cloth  \\\i\\  difference  of 
colouring.  I  woidd  remark  also  that  when  small  patterns  are  to 
be  produced  upon  the  cloth.  I  use,  instead  of  the  said  machinery, 
(for  working  any  reasonable  number  of  leaves  of  headles)  a  contri- 


INTRODUCTION.  29 

vance  or  invention,  which  I  call  a  tappet  wheel,  formed  of  a  suita- 
ble number  of  segment  pieces  of  iron  or  smooth  stone,  in  the  faces 
of  which  segment  pieces,  indented  grooves  are  made  or  cast,  for  the 
purpose,  when  combined,  of  producing  a  zigzag  groove  round  the 
face  of  the  wheel,  to  suit  any  required  pattern  to  be  woven  in  the 
cloth.  In  this  zigzag  groove  a  roller  works,  attached  to  an  upright 
rod,  which  is  connected  to  the  levers  or  treadles ;  and,  hence,  as  the 
tappet  wheel  revolves,  the  treadles  are  worked  up  and  down,  accord- 
ing to  the  elevations  and  depressions  formed  in  the  wheel,  and  the 
requisite  portions  of  the  warp  are  raised  and  depressed  to  form 
the  sheds. 

The  segment  pieces  are  all  made  to  correspond  and  to  fit  together 
in  the  wheel,  so  that  they  may  be  readily  changed,  and  a  different 
zigzag  groove  produced  when  required,  according  to  the  sort  of  cloth 
to  be  woven,  thereby  superseding  the  necessity  of  casting  or  making 
many  wheels,  having  different  shaped  grooves,  and  of  shifting  them 
where  any  variation  in  the  weaving  is  wanted.  The  rod  which 
holds  the  roller  that  works  in  the  tappet,  is  connected  above  to  the 
two  outer  jacks,  as  in  the  ordinary  power  loom,  and  acts  upon  verti- 
cal rack  bars  that  take  into  a  pinion,  which  raises  and  depresses  the 
portions  of  the  warp  equally,  and  thereby  prevents  any  under  strain. 
There  are  certain  vibrating  bars  connected  with  the  jacks  and  with 
the  needles,  wliich  are  thrown  from  side  to  side  by  the  action  of  the 
tappet  rod  on  the  racks  and  pinions ;  and  these  bars  have  notches 
in  their  edges,  which  are  taken  hold  of  by  horizontal  bars  connected 
to  the  treadles,  for  the  purpose  of  moving  or  holding  back  certain 
of  the  needles,  agreeably  to  the  command  of  the  tappet  wheel. 
The  rising  of  the  tappet  rod,  and  the  rack  bar,  works  a  crank  that 
slides  the  pattern  board,  and  brings  the  successive  lines  of  the  pat- 
tern under  the  ends  of  the  levers  or  needles ;  and  a  spring  is  intro- 
duced to  ease  the  action  of  the  pattern  frame. 

And,  may  it  please  the  King, 

I  also  claim  the  honour  of  inventing  a  new  arrangement  of 
mechanism,  lohich  has  no  connection  whatever  with  any  part  of 
my  machinery  already  described,  but  yet  is  so  essential  to  the 
general  well-being  thereof,  that  I  cannot  resist  the  temptation  of 
explaining  it  separately,  and  claiming  it  in  combination  with  the 
former  (notwithstanding  the  claims  of  the  said  Ghelen.) 

The  leading  feature  of  this  improvement  consists  in  the  peculiar 
arrangement  and  order  of  working  certain  parts  of  looms  in  gen- 
eral, so  that  a  new  description  of  cloth  shall  be  produced  or  woven ; 
and  it  is  more  particularly  adapted  to  that  class  of  silk  fabrics  called 


30  INTRODUCTION. 

'  Kiang  Nau'*  satin  ;  the  ordinary  quality  of  which  has  one  face 
highly  finished  and  glossy,  owing  to  the  brilliancy  of  the  warp 
threads  being  thrown  up  on  one  side  or  surface,  while  the  reverse 
or  hack  side  of  the  cloth  presents  a  dull  unsightly  appearance, 
owing  to  the  absence  of  the  warp  threads  to  the  vision.  Now,  by 
the  aid  of  my  improvements,  in  the  arrangement  and  order  of 
v.orking  the  loom,  and  by  introducing  a  double  set  of  warp  threads, 
1  am  enabled  to  produce  a  very  extraordinary  description  of  goods, 
both  in  point  of  texture  and  quahty ;  the  great  novelty  of  which 
consists  in  its  having  a  perfect  or  distinct  finished  surface  on  each 
side  of  the  fabric  ;  and  I  am  enabled  also  to  present,  two  entirely 
different  colours  of  cloth,  one  upon  each  side  or  surface  of  the  piece, 
without  the  slightest  variation  in  finish,  brilliancy  or  appearance 
otherwise,  but  being,  as  it  were,  a  double  cloth,  having  two  perfect 
sides  or  surfaces,  and  bound  or  held  together,  by  threads  of  weft  at 
certain  intervals.  The  manner  in  which  such  manufacture  is  to 
be  effected  is  entirely  dependant  upon  the  peculiar  order,  or  succes- 
sion of  working  the  treadles,  so  as  to  divide  or '  shed'  the  two,  or  more 
coloured  warps  in  such  a  manner  that  a  certain  number  of  threads 
shall  always  be  '  floating'  to  cover  the  weft  on  each  side,  and  also 
a  proper  number  of  threads,  only,  shall  rise  and  fall  at  certain  in- 
tervals, to  bind  the  picks.  All  this  I  accomphsh  with  the  aid  of  the 
tappets,  as  already  recorded^  the  treadles  being  worked  by  them  in 
order  to  open  the  proper  sheds. 

The  warp  threads  are  to  be  prepared  and  wound  upon  a  beam 
as  usual ;  but  in  case  the  cloth  is  required  to  have  two  distinct 
colours,  (that,  is,  one  upon  each  side  or  surface)  tlien,  the  uarjys 
must,  of  course,  he  of  the  colours  of  the  intended  satin.  I  would 
also  remark,  that  the  satin  or  glossy  face  may  be  produced,  by  the 
weft  instead  of  the  warp  ;  and  this  may  be  effected,  simply,  by 
lifting  one  headle  out  of  every  eight,  for  the  upper  cloth,  to  each 
pick  of  the  weft ;  by  which  means  f  ths  of  the  weft,  will  show  on 
the  face,  mstead  of  ^ths  of  the  warp,  as  in  the  former  plan. 
The  under  cloth  satin  face,  may  be  produced  by  arranging 
the  tappets  so  as  to  lift  ^ths  of  the  warp,  leaving  |th  part  do%vn, 
and  thus  ^ths  of  the  weft  will  be  thrown  on  the  under  side,  as  it 
was  above  in  the  upper  cloth. 

And,  may  it  please  the  King, 

Having  now  described  the  nature  of  my  inventions,  or  improve- 
ments in  looms  worked  by  the  power  of  air,  or  any  other  agent  of 

*  Kiang  Nan,  the  name  of  a  Chinese  province. 


INTRODUCTION.  31 

nature,  which  may  be  hereafter  found  out,  procured,  or  otherwise 
brought  into  existence,  for  the  purpose  aheady  described,  viz.,  of 
weaving  four,  or  any  other  number  of  webs  of  cloth  at  once,  in  the 
same  engine  or  verticle  power  loom,  or  looms,  by  simultaneous 
action  of  the  various  parts,  combinations,  and  appurtenances  there- 
of, in  the  manner,  O  King  !  before  described  and  set  forth  ; 

1st.  I  desire  your  Majesty  to  understand  that  I  do  not  claim  as 
my  invention  or  inventions,  improvement  or  improvements,  combi- 
nation, or  combinations,  the  whole  of  said  machinery  ;  as  many 
parts  thereof  are  of  the  said  Ghelen's  invention,  and  in  common 
use  ;  but  what  1  more  particularly  mean  to  confine  myself  to,  and 
that  which  I  wish  to  be  considered  the  honourable  inventor  of, 
while  i  live  in  this  world,  is,  first. 

The  reeds  BB,  for  knocking,  or  pounding  up  the  weft,  or  wefts 
of  four,  or  any  other  number  of  webs  ;  such  reeds  being  contained 
in  the  same  moving  frame  or  lay,  or  otherwise  affixed  as  the  nature 
of  the  case  may  require,  and  each  of  them  being  divided  into  two, 
or  more  separate  shuttle  races  (for  weaving  half  the  number  of 
webs,)  and  the  headles  dividing  the  warps,  being  adapted  for  open- 
ing the  same  into  four,  or  more  sheds. 

2d.  And,  may  it  please  the  King, 

I  claim  as  my  invention,  the  mechanism  described  for  changing 
the  shuttles,  in  a  vertical  air  loom,  for  weaving  four,  or  any  other 
number  of  webs  at  once.  When  any  one,  or  more  weft  thread,  or 
threads  break,  or  fail,  the  said  mechanism  then  substitutes  a  spare 
shuttle,  or  shuttles  by  an  instantaneous  movement,  without  any  act 
of  the  attendant,  and  without  stopping  the  loom.  I  also  claim  the 
peculiar  method  before  described,  of  forcing  or  pitching  the  shuttles, 
as  fast  as  the  weft  thread,  or  threads  break,  or  become  exhausted, 
into  a  sluice,  or  conductor,  cut  through  the  back  side  of  the  ma- 
chine, in  the  manner  and  for  the  purpose  set  forth.  And,  more- 
over, whereas,  various  contrivances  have  been  before  applied  in 
shuttles,  so  as  to  cause  the  loom  to  cease  operation,  when  the  weft 
thread  breaks  or  fails,  I  make  no  claim  to  the  invention  of  a  mo- 
tion in  the  shuttle,  for  the  purpose  of  causing  the  loom  to  stop,  but 
only  to  the  mechanism  which  changes  the  shuttles  for  others  con- 
taining weft  thread,  or  threads,  and  that  too  without  stoppmg  the 
loom. 

If  by  any  untoward  circumstance,  the  loom  should  not  stop  when 
required,  notwithstanding  all  these  precautionary  measures,  the 
hnch  pins  or  keys,  (as  before  described)  are  drawn  from  the  arms 
which  connect  the  lay  to  the  main  driving  shaft  of  the  machine  ; 


32  INTRODUCTION. 

when  this  is  accomplished,  motion  luill  he  effectually  suspended. 
All  these  arrangements  I  claim  to  be  of  my  invention. 

3d.  And,  may  it  please  the  King, 

I  claim  the  improvement,  before  described,  of  applying  and  com- 
bining, or  otherwise  arranging  four,  or  any  other  number  of  move- 
able pincers  or  crabs,  for  extending,  widening  or  stretching  (in 
breadth)  the  cloth  of  four,  or  more  webs,  which  are  to  be  woven  at 
once,  in  a  vertical,  or  any  other  kind  of  loom,  the  said  Ghelen's 
vertical  mat  loom  excepted. 

And,  whereas,  a  kind  of  pincers,  or  crabs  have  been  applied  to  or- 
dinary looms,  (which  weave  one  piece  of  cloth  at  a  time)  for  the 
purpose  of  holding  such  cloth,  in  their  claws,  jaws,  or  gums,  (as  the 
case  may  be)  to  the  same  width  at  which  the  reed  leaves  it,  after 
having  beaten  in  the  weft,  such  nippers  having  been  invented  by 
Lemuel  P.  Arybas  (a  sojourner  in  the  Cities  of  the  Plain)  I  make 
no  claim  to  them  ;  but  only  to  the  application  of  my  apparatus  to 
vertical  looms,  propelled  by  the  power  of  air,  or  any  other  agent,  for 
weaving  four,  or  more  webs  at  once  ;  nor  do  I  mean  to  confine 
myself  to  these  particidars,  but  will  be  governed  by  the  nature  of 
the  work  to  be  produced. 

4th.  And,  may  it  please  the  King, 

I  claim  the  improvement,  before  described,  of  mechanism  for 
changing  the  shuttle  boxes,  from  one  side  of  the  loom  to  the  other, 
when  all  the  weft  in  such  shuttles  as  are  contained  in  a  recep- 
tacle, has  become  exhausted  ;  and  also  that  of  replacing  such  re- 
ceptacles, charged  with  another  carriage  full  of  shuttles,  containing 
cops  or  quills  of  different  colours,  or  appearances,  as  the  nature  of 
the  case  may  require,  for  the  purpose  of  producing  cross  stripes,  or 
chequered  patterns  of  eveiy  possible  description  ;  and  also,  for 
effecting  all  changes  of  colouring,  or  appearance  as  are  required  in 
figure,  or  ornamental  weaving. 

5th.  And,  may  it  please  the  King, 

I  claim  the  improvement,  before  described,  of  the  mode  of  mount- 
ing the  headles,  suitably  for  figure  weaving,  in  a  vertical  power 
loom,  by  which  four,  or  more  figured  webs  of  cloth  may  be  Avoven 
at  one  and  the  same  operation  ;  and,  lastly,  O  King  !  I  claim  the 
improvement,  or  combination  of  mechanism,  before  described,  for 
drawing  up  the  headles,  suitably  for  weaving  figured  patterns,  in  a 
vertical  power  loom,  on  a  surprising  number  of  webs  at  once  ; 
which  mechanism  derives  the  diversification  of  its  successive  actions 
on  the  headles,  from  a  carved  pattern  board,  or  from  carving  on  the 
circumference  of  a  revolving  cylinder,  that  carving  being  a  repre- 


INTRODUCTION.  33 

sentation  of  the  required  pattern,  in  relief,  with  different  stages  in 
the  heights  and  depths  thereof,  at  all  the  parts  which  are  to  be 
woven  with  different  colours,  or  with  other  variations  in  appearance, 
as  may  be  derived  from  changing  the  kinds  of  weft  which  are  em- 
ployed ;  and  I  also  claim,  as  of  my  invention,  the  tappet  wheel 
contrivance  or  apparatus,  before  described,  for  working  any  reason- 
able number  of  leaves  of  headles,  the  claims  of  the  said  Ghelen, 
and  of  the  said  Arybas,  to  the  contrary  notwithstanding. 

And,  may  it  please  the  King, 

I  also  claim  the  honour  of  inventing  the  improvement  in  looms 
for  weaving  in  the  same  piece  of  cloth,  two,  or  more  pieces  of  imi- 
tation Kiang  Nau  satin,  or  fabric  having  two  equally  perfect  and 
finished  sides  or  surfaces,  either  of  similar  or  distinct  colours,  quali- 
ties, or  materials  (as  the  case  may  be)  the  claims  of  the  said  Ghelen 
to  the  contrary  thereof  notwithstanding. 

After  hearing  the  Oration  of  the  said  Arphaxad,  we  ordered  him 
to  be  rewarded  with  an  annual  pension  of  forty-five  shekels  of  gold, 
in  lawful  money  of  these  realms,  during  the  natural  period  of  his 
existence  in  this  world  ;  and  we  commanded  a  short  Document  to 
be  drawn  out  by  our  scribe,  to  be  regularly  signed  by  the  inventor 
before  witnesses  (he  being  a  barbarian)  and  to  be  afliixed  to  the  de- 
scription of  the  monster,  as  copied  word  for  word  by  Deog.  We 
condescend  to  add  in  our  History  this  document,  which  is  as 
follows : 

All  these  arrangements,  improvements,  and  combinations  of 
mechanism,  I  claim  as  of  my  invention,  the  claims  of  the  said 
Arkite  Ghiden  Ghelen,  or  of  the  said  Lemuel  P.  Arybas  to  the  con- 
trary notwithstanding  ;  in  testimony  whereof  I  hereunto,  on  this 
tenth  day  of  the  month  Adar,  set  my  hand  and  seal, 

E.  K.  ARPHAXAD. 

Witnesses  \  ^^^^  ^^°'''  ^-  ^- 

I  bRBIL    HaZER,    J.    P. 

We  have  received  the  following  letter  from  our  friend  at  Alex- 
andria (Egypt,)  who  furnished  us  with  the  foregoing  specification 
and  drawing,  in  answer  to  one  we  wrote  to  that  polite  gentleman 
on  the  22d  January  last,  and  in  which  we  made  various  enquiries  re- 
specting the  several  human  figures,  (fee,  represented  m  the  draw- 

5 


34  INTRODUCTION. 

ing  with  Arphaxad's  machine,  but  of  which  the  historian  (we  re- 
gret to  say)  gives  no  account.  Mr.  Kersivenus,  being  well  versed 
in  such  matters,  explains  nearly  all  these  important  omissions,  in  the 
present  letter. 


Alexandria,  April  23d,  1843. 

Dear  friend, 

I  received  your  favour  this  morning,  bearing  date 
22d.  January  last,  the  contents  of  which  I  duly  note.  In  the  first 
place,  I  am  happy  to  hear  of  the  safe  arrival  at  New  York,  of  the 
drawing  of  Arphaxad's  loom,  which  I  had  the  pleasure  of  sending 
you  on  the  11th  August,  1842,  and  the  procurement  of  which  gave 
me  no  small  trouble,  besides,  the  immense  expense  levied  by  his 
Highness  before  I  was  permitted  to  copy  from  the  original  scroll. 
But,  now  that  you  have  received  the  drawing,  which  is  faithful  in 
every  particular,  I  entertain  no  fears  of  your  success,  well  knowing 
that  such  an  enlightened  people  as  the  natives  of  the  United  States 
of  America,  have  the  proper  spirit  to  appreciate  your  exertions  to 
benefit  them  in  their  manufactures,  by  the  introduction  of  this  most 
useful  engine  amongst  them.  However,  this  is  no  business  of  mine  ; 
and  my  object  at  present  is  to  answer  your  letter. 

You  enquire  the  reason  why  I  did  not  (in  my  letter  of  11th 
August,  1842,)  give  you  an  explanation  of  the  various  human  figures 
represented  in  the  drawing  along  with  the  machine.  Why,  my  dear 
friend,  the  truth  is,  I  forgot  to  do  so ;  and  I  now  beg  pardon  for  hav- 
ing been  guilty  of  so  great  an  omission. 

In  answer  to  your  first  enquiry  as  to  what  the  figure  No.  1  is, 
and  for  what  purpose,  he  is  perched  upon  the  top  of  the  loom,  I 
would  state,  that  it  is  not  a  human  being,  as  one  might  at  first  sight 
suppose,  but  only  a  part  of  the  mechanism  called  the  alarm  loon, 
for  the  purpose  of  giving  notice  to  the  weavers,  when  a  weft  or  warp 
thread  breaks,  in  case  the  other  motions  fail  to  perform  their  respec- 
tive functions,  as  described  by  the  inventor  before  king  Deioces. 
The  manner  in  which  the  loon  operates  is  as  follows  : — 

There  is  an  air  cistern,  or  cylinder,  placed  transversely  at  the  back 
of  the  different  warps,  having  3796  holes  of  \  inch  in  diameter 
pierced  in  it ;  to  each  one  of  which  holes,  a  small  tube  is  soldered 
of  sufficient  length  to  reach  up  to  the  under  extremity  of  the 
figure  No.  1,  passing  into  that  part  of  the  machine  on  which  it  is 
seated,  and  from  thence  into  his  interior.  This  arrangement  being 
clearly  uuderttood,  the  operation  will  be  obvious  after  a  liLtlc  ex- 


INTRODUCTION. 


35 


planation.  There  is  a  small  valve  or  air  latch  on  the  side  of  each 
of  these  tubes  or  air  conductors,  just  about  2^  inches  from  the  cy- 
linder. To  each  of  these  latches,  the  end  of  a  small  cord  or  wire 
chain  is  made  fast,  the  other  end  having  an  eyelet  hole  in  it,  to  ad- 
mit a  warp  thread  to  pass  freely  through  it.  This  done,  the  next 
thing  is  to  attach  a  small  lead  of  about  2  ounces  in  weight,  and  5\ 
inches  in  length,  midway  between  the  valve  on  the  side  of  the  air 
tube  and  the  warp  thread.  As  soon  as  a  thread  breaks,  its  cord,  is 
of  course,  disengaged,  when  its  weight  is  allowed  to  drop  through  a 
small  hole  in  a  plate,  which  serves  to  guide  all  the  weights,  and  by 
its  descending  force,  depresses  one  end  of  a  lever  which  acts  upon  the 
safety  valve,  (corresponding  to  the  thread,)  and  by  this  means  a 
sufficient  quantity  of  air  is  allowed  to  escape  from  the  general  reser- 
voir, which  instantly  rushes  into  the  figure  No.  1  ;  whereupon  that 
figure,  by  the  aid  of  a  very  ingenious  piece  of  mechanism  in  its  in- 
side, elevates  the  trumpet,  and  gives  a  shrill  blast,  loud  enough  to 
be  heard  all  over  the  factory. — A  similar  method  is  employed  with 
the  weft  threads,  but  this  I  shall  explain  to  you  in  another  letter,  as 
soon  as  I  hear  from  our  friends,  Dr.  Lepsius,  and  Mr.  Taylor  of 
Dublin,  to  whom  I  have  written  on  the  subject.  Slrould  more  than 
one  thread  break  at  a  time,  the  mechanism  of  the  figure  No.  1, 
adapts  itself  to  that  incident,  by  giving  a  corresponding  notice ; 
should  any  serious  accident  occur,  such,  for  instance  as  any  of  the 
workmen  who  are  occupied  inside  of  the  machine  falling  through 
the  rio-o-ing,  by  reason  of  having  made  a  mis-step,  then,  the  alarm 
loon  blows  five  times  in  rapid  succession  ;  and  in  case  of  two  hands 
falling  over-board  at  the  same  instant,  as  is  represented  in  the  draw- 
ing, the  trumpeter  blows  eleven  times,  lifts  his  reserve  foot,  kicking 
off  his  ring  hat,  under  which  all  the  tubes  from  the  safety-valves  in 
the  main  cylinder  fit,  whereupon  the  whole  of  the  air  escapes 
through  the  lid  in  the  crown  of  the  loon's  head,  and  thus  the  loom 
is  effectually  stopped  until  new  hands  are  provided. 

I  am  credibly  informed  by  his  Highness,  that  iii  no  instance  do 
any  of  the  poor  fellows  survive  a  fall  from  the  engine,  and,  indeed, 
it  is  an  astonishing  fact,  that  life  almost  invariably  becomes  extinct 
before  they  reach  the  ground  at  all.  It  appears  from  the  original 
records  in  the  possession  of  his  Highness,  and  from  what  I,  myself, 
could  decipher  from  other  documents,  in  regard  to  the  rise  and  pro- 
gress of  this  desperately  complex  machine,  that  out  of  every  76 
persons  who  met  a  horrid  death  through  its  instrumentality,  65 
were  apprentices  (or  green  hands.) 

There  is  not  the  shadow  of  a  doubt  on  my  mind,  however,  that 


36 


INTRODUCTION. 


you  \vill  in  the  course  of  a  short  time,  so  improve  the  internal  ar- 
rangements of  the  eng-ine.  as  to  lessen  the  number  of  these  dread- 
ful accidents,  if  not  altogether  to  prevent  such  occurrences  from  taking 
place  in  fiiture.  Iti  a  country  like  yours,  where  one  77ian^s  life 
is  just  as  valuable  as  any  ot/ier  mans,  this  is  a  matter  which  re- 
quires your  serious  consideration,  and  all  the  ingenuity  vou  possess. 
You  a^k  the  reason  why  so  many  workmen  lose  their  lives  in  this 
business,  but  I  confess  my  inabiUty  to  give  you  any  very  definite  reply 
to  such  a  question,  not  ha\-iiig  sufficiently  weighed  the  subject,  as 
yet.  in  all  its  bearings.  However,  my  present  impression  is,  that 
the  principal  cause  of  these  misfortunes  may  be  ascribed  to  the  cir- 
cumstance, that  the  mechanism  is  so  extensive  inside  as  to  mono- 
polize nearly  all  the  footing  or  standing  place  ;  and  as  some  parts 
of  the  machmery  require  to  be  operated  by  the  hand,  and  others 
by  power,  it  often  occurs  that  the  workman,  from  inattention,  or 
want  of  experience,  fails  in  perfoniiing  his  part  of  the  work  within 
the  necessary  time,  and  the  section  on  which  he  stands  is  the 
next  to  be  operated  upon  by  the  air  cylinder,  and  should  he  not 
shift  his  position  before  it  begins  to  open  its  jaws,  he  is  at  once  let 
tlu-ough  the  slide,  receiving  at  the  moment  of  his  exit,  a  knock 
from  a  revolving  guard  or  automaton  figure,  which  is  placed  under 
the  platform  of  the  main  pattern-board  levers,  for  the  purpose  of 
clearing  awa}-  obstiiictions,  such  as  dead  bodies,  (fcc.  ;  and  as  this 
knock  or  kick  is  commonly  given  on  the  crown  of  the  head,  life,  in 
most  cases,  becomes  extinct  instantly. 

Now.  my  dear  sir.  could  you  do  away  with  the  manual  labour, 
by  the  substitution  of  power  :  or  could  you  make  such  alterations, 
that  the  men  would  have  a  sure  standing  place  to  work  upon  ;  I 
say,  could  you  make  either  of  these  improvements,  I  am  of  opinion, 
and  so  is  his  Highness,  that  you  would  confer  a  lasting  benefit  on 
mankind,  at  least  on  those  who  are  called  weavers. 

You  desire  me  to  explain  the  meaning  of  the  figures  2,  3,  4,  5,  6, 
and  7.  as  you  say  you  are  not  much  skilled  in  the  science  of  hiero- 
glyphics. You  will;  no  doubt,  have  observed  that  they  are  all  fe- 
male musicians.  Each  of  thefn  wears  on  her  cap  the  symbol  of 
her  rank  in  the  band.  Perhaps  figure  5  is  an  exception,  however ; 
as  I  am  not  so  certain  of  her  grade.  At  first  sight,  I  took  her  to  be 
a  pawnbroker's  wife,  from  the  fact  of  her  wearing  three  balls  to  her 
horns  :  but  she  is  so  curious  altogether  in  appearance,  that  1  shall 
not  venture  to  give  any  other  opinion  about  her.  until  I  hear  from 
our  friend  Dr.  Lepsius,  and  I  intend  writing  to  him  on  the  subject 
to-mnrrcrw.     As  soon  as  his  answer  arrixnes.  I  will  srive  vou  a  com- 


INTRODUCTION.  37 

plete  explanation  of  that  figure,  I  will  also  write  by  the  same  post, 
to  W.  C.  Taylor,  L.  L.  D.,  as  he,  doubtless,  knows  all  about  it, 
having-  lately  turned  his  attention  to  these  subjects  ;  and,  in  the 
meantime,  believe  me  to  be,  with  permission  from  his  Highness, 
Your  most  obedient  servant, 

ALEXIS  KERSI  VENUS, 

Civil  Engineer,  Homeopathic  Physician,  &c. 

P.  S.  My  family  are  all  wxll.  Cleopatra  sends  you  her  love, 
and  three  embalmed  kisses,  together  with  a  vial  of  frankincense  ; 
and  hopes  soon  to         *  *  *  *  * 

******  ! 

Had  some  of  our  modern  inventors  seen  this  loom,  with  its 
various  appurtenances,  it  might  have  saved  them  many  an  aching 
head  and  broken  heart ;  and,  we  have  no  hesitation  in  saying, 
that  it  would  have  effectually  shown  them  how  far  they  had  been 
anticipated  by  an  unpretending  individual  who  never  even  so  much 
as  thought  it  worth  while  to  secure  its  benefits  to  himself  by 
"  Letters  Patent."  Although  Arphaxad  lived  in  a  period  of  the 
world  in  which,  it  is  generally  supposed,  men  knew  comparatively 
little,  still,  we  think  that  his  specification,  as  delivered  by  himself 
before  the  Median  monarch,  is  scarcely  to  be  equalled  by  oiu" 
greatest  scheming-inventors  and  patent  agents  of  the  present  day  ; 
and  we  would  recommend  it  as  a  model  to  all  those  aspiring  spirits 
who  expect  to  reach  the  uppermost  step  of  fame's  ladder,  or  to  have 
a  bronze  monument  (higher  than  the  Colossus  at  Rhodes)  for  a 
head  piece  to  their  narrow  stripe  of  territory,  after  Chaos  has 
spread  his  dusky  pinions  around  their  once  ambitious  intellects. 
However,  this  is  none  of  our  business. 

The  arts  of  spinning,  dyeing,  and  weaving  now  spread  rapidly 
over  various  parts  of  China,  Persia,  Hindostan,  and  Egypt,  where 
they  made  great  progress,  extending  into  Palestine,  in  the  earliest 
ages  of  the  Jewish  dispensation.  Indeed,  we  find  from  the  book 
of  Joshua,  that  flax  was  very  anciently  cultivated  even  in  Pales- 
tine ;  for  Rahab,  the  harlot  of  Jericho,  concealed  the  spies  under 
the  stalks  of  flax  which  she  had  laid  to  dry  on  the  house  top. 
Spinning  and  weaving  v/ere  also  practised  in  Idumea,  the  latter 
forming  the  subject  of  a  beautiful  allusion  in  the  book  of  Job  : 

"My  days  are  slighter  than  the  weaver's  yarn, 
They  are  finished  like  the  breaking  of  a  thread." 

Job.  vii  chap,  6  ver.  (  Wemyss's  Trans.) 


38  INTRODUCTION. 

There  is  the  same  image  in  Hezekiah's  complaint,  a  passage  by 
the  way,  which  has  sadly  perplexed  commentators,  but  is  at  once 
explained  by  the  custom  of  the  weavers  cutting  away  the  thrums, 
by  which  the  piece  is  fastened  to  the  yarn  roUer  in  the  loom,  when 
his  work  is  completed  : 

My  liie  is  cut  off  as  bj'  the  weaver  ; 

He  will  sever  me  from  the  loom  ; 

In  the  course  of  the  day,  he  will  finish  my  web." 

Isaiah  xxxviii  chap.  12  ver.  {LoicWs  Tram.) 

From  the  history  of  Samson,  it  is  evident  that  the  cidtivation  of 
flax,  and  the  arts  of  spinning  and  weavmg.  were  practised  by  the 
Philistines.  But,  the  Hebrews  were  essentially  an  agricultural,  and 
pastoral  people,  equally  averse  to  commerce  and  manufacturing  in- 
dustry. Solomon  exerted  himself  to  reform  the  national  habits  ; 
he  estabhshed  an  emporium  at  Eziongeber,  to  open  trading  com- 
munications with  the  eastern  seas,  while  his  connexion  with  the 
TjTians;  enabled  him  to  participate  in  the  commerce  of  the  JMedi- 
terranean.  It  appears  that  he  entered  into  a  league  with  the 
reigning  king  of  Egypt,  to  receive  hnen  yarn  at  a  stipulated  price, 
or  fixed  dut}-.  This  early  example  of  a  conmiercial  treaty  for 
regulating  a  tariff  of  intercotirse,  is  cmiously  illustrated  b)^  the  re- 
cent discoveries  in  Egyptian  antiquities  ;  as  we  find  from  them, 
that  the  Pharoahs  had  very  large  spinning  establishments,  such  as 
we  should  in  the  present  day  call  factories  of  no  small  magnitude, 
so  that  there  was  not  only  enough  of  yarn  left  for  home  consump- 
tion in  the  valley  of  the  Nile  but  also  for  exportation.  Had  Solo- 
mon resembled  some  modern  statesmen,  he  would  have  protected 
the  spinning  industry  of  Judea  by  laying  a  prohibitory  duty  on  the 
import  of  foreign  yarn  ;  but  Solomon  was  aware  that  the  protection 
to  Hebrew  flax-growers  and  spinners  would  so  enhance  the  price 
of  yarn  to  Hebrew  weavers,  that  they  could  not  bring  their  goods 
into  a  foreign  market.  He  did  not  establish  a  monopoly,  for  he 
saw  very  clearly  that  every  monopoly  is  a  great  injury  to  the 
many  for  the  benefit  of  the  few,  and  instead  of  telling  his  weavers 
to  look  exclusively  to  the  home  market,  he  endeavoured  to  open 
for  them  as  many  foreign  markets  as  possible. 

But,  to  retiu-n  to  our  subject,  it  appears  that  one  of  the  most  valua- 
ble of  Arphaxad"s  inventions,  was  that  of  his  unproved  shuttle  ;  for, 
as  we  have  aheady  stated,  that  useful  implement  in  weaving,  seems 
to  have  been  entirely  unknown  to  Ghelen  ;  and,  indeed,  no  great 
progress  could  ever  have  been   made  without  it.     Shuttles   were 


INTKODUCTION.  39 

made  of  two  soils,  one  for  the  fly,  the  other  for  the  hand-loom,  and 
were  pointed  at  both  ends  in  a  similar  way  to  those  of  the  present 
day,  that  they  might  more  easily  pass  through  the  shed,  or  sheds 
of  the  Avarp,  opened  for  their  reception.  In  spite  of  all  tliis,  how- 
ever, the  English  have  the  hardihood  to  claim  the  merit  of  having 
invented  the  fly  shuttle,  for  one  JoJin  Kay  of  Bury,  in  the  year 
1738  ;  and  even  Mr.  Taylor  of  Dublin,  shows  his  depth  of  learning 
in  weaving  chronology,  when  he  reiterates  the  silly  story  which 
prevails  upon  the  subject  among  the  ignorant,  in  his  "  Sketch  of 
the  Progress  of  the  Cotton  and  Woollen  Manufactures,  &.c." 

It  is  narrated  that  Arachne,  a  woman  of  Colyphon  (daughter  of 
Idmon,  a  dyer)  was  so  skilful  in  working  tapestry,  that  she  chal- 
lenged Minerva,  the  goddess  of  the  art,  to  a  trial  of  skill.  She  re- 
presented in  her  designs,  the  amours  of  Jupiter  with  Europa,  An- 
tiope,  Leda,  Asteria,  Danae,  and  Alemene  ;  and  although  it  is 
recorded  that  her  performances  were  masterly,  yet  she  was  defeated 
by  Minerva,  and  hanging  herself  in  despair,  was  changed  into  a 
spider  by  the  goddess.  Ovid  describes  the  very  ungallant  use  to 
which  Minerva  applied  the  shuttle,  in  her  contest  with  Arachne  : 

"  A  great  fly  shuttle  in  her  hand  she  took, 
And  more  than  once  Arachne's  forehead  struck  ; 
The  unhappy  maid,  impatient  of  the  wrong. 
Her  injured  person  from  the  breast  beam  hung." 

(O'Doherty^s  Tram.) 

From  the  delineations  existing  on  Egyptian  monuments,  weaving 
was  not  regarded  as  a  very  exhilarating  employment :  in  several 
instances  we  can  see  signs  of  sadness  and  melancholy  on  the  coun- 
tenances of  those  engaged  in  the  task,  reminding  us  of  the  sorrow 
of  Penelope : 

"  Full  opposite  before  the  folding  gate. 
The  pensive  mother  sits  in  humble  state ; 
Lowly  she  sat,  and  with  dejected  view, 
The  fleecy  threads  her  wary  fingers  drew." 

Odyssey,  XVII. 

But  the  sombre  aspect  of  persons  thus  engaged  is  easily  explained 
when  we  remember  that  most  of  the  female  spinners  and  weavers 
in  Egypt,  at  the  time  to  which  we  refer,  were  captives  taken  in  war, 
fallen  from  their  former  high  estate,  and  forced  to  bear  the  con- 
tumely of  an  imperious  mistress.  It  will  be  remembered  with  what 
bitterness  of  feelmg  Hector  forebodes  such  a  fate  for  his  beloved 
Andromache  ;  and,  indeed,  he  had  good  reason  to  he  sorry  for  his 
poor  '  gal,'  if  the  labour  was  as  hard  in  actual  practice,  as  it  ap- 


4U 


INTRODUCTION. 


pears  to  be  from  the  annexed  illustration  ;  which  is  a  correct  copy 
of  an  original  drawing  taken  from  the  tomb  of  Hassian  ;  and  we 
are  indebted  to  the  French  Consul  at  Athens,  for  his  great  kindness 
in  procuring  it  for  us.     It  is  shown  at  Fig.  E. 


Fi2 


On  comparison  with  Ghelen's  loom,  it  will  be  observed  that  in 
the  present  drawing,  double  the  number  of  hands  are  eniplo5'ed  ; 
and  unless  these  could  produce  more  than  twice  the  quantity  of 
cloth  woven  in  the  former,  no  saving  would  be  eifected.  Perhaps, 
however,  the  quality  of  the  fabric  was  improved  by  the  '  let  off'  and 
'  take  up'  motions,  wliich,  no  doubt,  worked  very  admirably  ;  more 
so,  we  think,  than  some  of  those  at  present  in  use ;  and  we  would 
add,  might  be  advantageously  employed  on  many  of  our  modem 
carpet  power  looms. 

The  scene  presented  on  the  border  at  the  bottom  of  the  above 
drawing,  i^^  the  pattern  at  which  the  weavers  are  engaged.  It  is 
somewhat  indistinct,  but  so  far  as  we  can  learn,  the  subject  of  it  is 
a  retreat  from  a  battle-field.  The  large  quadruped  towards  the 
right,  is  a  jackass,  and  the  person  who  holds  it  by  the  tail,  is  its 
owner,  who  appears  to  be  one  of  the  vanquished,  and  is  leaving  the 
scene  of  action  with  all  possible  speed,  at  the  same  time  doing  all 
in  his  power  to  save  his  ass  ;  but  it  stands  still,  either  from  natural 
stubbornness,  or  from  fear  of  one  of  the  victors,  who  has  got  in  front, 


INTRODUCTION.  41 

and  is  endeavouring  to  catch  it,  or  else  to  tempt  it  with  a    *         * 

*  ,  which  he  has  placed  upon  a  three-legged  stool.  The  man 
towards  the  left,  who  seems  to  run  so  fast,  is  anotlier  of  the  con- 
querors, and  he  will,  no  doubt,  soon  overtake  the  ass-driver.  He 
carries,  in  triumph,  upon  a  pole,  the  head  of  some  person,  whom  he 
has  killed  in  the  fight.  There  is  also  on  the  left  the  figure  of  a 
person  in  a  kneeling  attitude,  who  has  been  taken  captive,  begging 
to  the  leader  of  the  victorious  army  for  his  deliverance.  The  other 
details  which  help  to  compose  the  design,  are  merely  fragments  of 
the  vanquished  left  on  the  field,  such  as  coats,  pantaloons,  vests,  hel- 
mets, legs,  arms,  (fcc. 

"  Thy  woes,  Andromache,  thy  grief  I  dread, 
I  see  thee  trembling,  weeping,  captive  led ; 
In  Argive*  looms  our  battles  to  design, 
And  woes  of  which  so  large  a  pan  was  thine." 

(Iliad,  vi.) 

Homer  asserts  that  the  ancients  were  acquainted  with  the  art  of 
weaving  figured  patterns  of  the  most  splendid  kind  ;  and  he  in- 
forms us,  that  Andromache  was  engaged  in  producing  a  rich  flowered 
pattern  when  she  received  the  melancholy  intelligence  of  the  death 
of  Hector : 

"  Far  in  the  close  recesses  of  the  dome. 
Pensive  she  ply'd  the  melancholy  loom. 
A  gloomy  work  employ'd  her  secret  hours 
Confus'dly  gay  with  intermingling  flowers." 

In  the  contest  between  Minerva  and  Arachne,  Ovid  gives  us  the 
following  lively  description,  dwelling  not  only  on  the  beauty  of  the 
figures  which  the  rivals  wove,  but  also  on  the  delicacy  of  shading, 
by  which  the  various  colours  were  made  to  harmonize  together  : 

"  Then  both  their  mantles  button'd  to  their  breast, 

Their  skilful  fingers  ply  with  willing  haste, 

And  work  with  pleasure,  while  ihey  cheer  the  eye 

With  glowing  purple  of  the  Tyrian  dye : 

Or  justly  intermixing  shades  with  light. 

Their  colourings  insensibly  unite  ; 

As  when  a  shower  transpierced  with  sunny  rays, 

Its  mighty  arch  along  the  heaven  displays ; 

From  whence  a  thousand  diff'rent  colours  rise, 

Whose  fine  transition  cheat  the  clearest  eyes ; 

*  Designating  what  belongs  to  Argos,  the  Capital  of  Argolis  in  Greece, 
whose  inhabitants  were  called  Argivi.  This  name  however  is  used  by  the 
poets  for  the  Greeks  in  general. — Pans.  Trans. 

6 


42  INTRODUCTION. 

So  like  ihe  intermingled  shading  seems, 
And  only  differs  in  the  last  extremes. 
Their  threads  of  gold  both  artfully  dispose, 
And,  as  each  part  in  just  proportion  rose, 
Some  antio  fable  in  their  work  disclose." 

The  loom  was  also  used  as  an  embroidering  frame,  the  figures  or 
patterns  being  worked  on  the  web  with  small  shuttles  or  circles,  as 
the  weaving  proceeded,  but  in  some  instances  the  embroidering 
needle  was  used  instead  of  the  shuttles  :  these  needles  were  not 
similar  to  a  common  shirt  needle,  as  some  of  our  learned  doctors 
would  fain  have  it,  but  like  those  used  in  the  manufacture  of  Gobe- 
lins tapestry  ;  of  these  we  shall  have  occasion  to  speak  more  fully 
hereafter. 

Vests  of  ornamental  work,  woven  or  embroidered,  were  favourite 
p  esents  from  a  fond  wife  to  her  husband,  from  a  mother  to  her  son, 
and  from  a  sister  to  her  brother.  Surcoats  thus  ornamented  formed 
no  small  part  of  the  warrior's  pride.  A  striking  allusion  is  made  to 
their  importance  in  one  of  the  most  glowing  passages  of  Deborah's 
triumphal  hymn.  "  The  mother  of  Sisera  looked  out  at  a  window 
and  cried  through  a  lattice.  Why  is  his  <;hariot  so  long  in  coming  ? 
why  tarry  the  wheels  of  his  chariots  ?  Her  wise  ladies  answered 
her,  Yea,  she  returned  answer  to  herself.  Have  they  not  sped  ?  have 
they  not  divided  the  spoil ;  to  every  man  a  damsel  or  two  ;  to  Sisera 
a  prey  of  divers  colours,  a  prey  of  diverse  colours  of  needle-work,  of 
divers  colours  of  needle-work  on  both  sides,  meet  for  the  necks  of 
them  that  take  the  spoil  ?" 

The  repetition  of  "  divers  colours,"  in  this  passage  is  a  strong 
proof  of  the  value  that  was  anciently  set  on  this  species  of  orna- 
mental work. 

It  appears  from  Exodus,  chap.  xxv.  verse  4,  that  fabrics  of  blue, 
purple,  fine  linen  and  goats  hair,  were  manufactured  to  a  great  ex- 
tent in  Palestine.  We  read  in  Exodus,  chap.  xxvi.  verses  1  and  2, 
"  Moreover,  thou  shalt  make  the  tabernacle  with  ten  curtains  of 
fine  twined  hnen,  and  blue,  and  purple,  and  scarlet :  with  cheru- 
bims  of  cunning  work  shalt  thou  make  them.  The  length  of  one 
curtain  shall  be  eight  and  twenty  cubits,  (51  ft.  1  inch,)  and  the 
breadth  of  one  curtain  four  cubits  :  and  every  one  of  the  curtains 
shall  have  one  measure."  From  this  we  perceive  that  the  web  in  the 
reed,  or  reeds  must  have  stood  about  7  feet  3^  inches,  which  is 
wider  than  any  plain  linen  fabrics  we  manufacture  at  the  present 
day.  The  figures  of  the  cherubims  must  have  been  woven  with 
shuttles,  and  very  hkeiy  as  many  as  a  thousand  shades  of  colour 


INTRODUCTION. 


43 


were  made  use  of.  Had  they  been  done  with  the  embroidering 
needle  on  so  very  wide  a  fabric,  it  would  have  taken  an  age  at  least 
in  its  accomplishment.  In  Exodus,  chapter  xxviii.  verse,  37,  we 
read  as  follows  :  "  And  thou  shalt  put  it  on  a  blue  lace,  that  it  may 
be  upon  the  mitre."  See  also  Exodus,  chapter  xxxix.  verses  21 
and  31.  From  this  it  is  evident  that  the  manufacture  of  lace  was 
then  well  understood  ;  and,  indeed,  it  was  so  long  before,  in  Egypt, 
as  we  shall  endeavour  to  show. 

We  are  well  aware  that  in  order  to  manufacture  lace,  very  com- 
plex contrivances  must  be  employed,  for  even  with  the  best  Notting- 
ham machinery  of  our  own  day  twelve  distinct  motions  are  neces- 
sary to  complete  one  mesh. 

On  referring  to  the  2Sth  chapter  of  Exodus,  at  the  39th  verse, 
we  learn  how  particular  were  the  directions  given  to  Moses  regard- 
ing the  preparation  of  the  sacerdotal  robes,  to  be  worn  by  the  high 
priest :  "  Thou  shalt  embroider  the  coat  of  fine  linen,  and  thou 
shalt  make  the  mitre  of  fine  linen,  and  thou  shalt  make  the  girdle 
of  needle-work."  The  concluding  part  of  this  verse  shows  most 
decidedly  that  the  principal  portion  of  the  fabric  was  cflfected  by 
machinery  (perhaps  like  our  friend  Josue  Heilmann's,  of  Mulhau- 
sen,  Alsace,  France,)  otherwise,  why  should  such  particular  reference 
be  made  to  the  girdles  being  of  needle-work  ?  No  doubt,  Bezaleel, 
an  ingenius  artizan  of  the  tribe  of  Judah,  invented  luachinery  for 
embroidering  those  beautiful  fabrics  very  expeditiously  :  this  gentle- 
man also  made  great  improvements  on  the  barrel,  and  draw  looms, 
the  claims  of  Morton  of  Kilmarnock,  Cross  of  Paisley,  and  Bonnar 
of  Dumfermline  to  the  contrary  notwithstanding.  Aholiab  of  the 
tribe  of  Dan,  one  of  Bezaleel's  particular  friends^  made  an  im- 
provement on  one  of  his  (Bezaleel's)  machines,  which,  according  to 
pope  Leo  X,  was  named  "  ogizigo  ;"  this  improvement,  consisted 
in  substituting  vertical  wires  with  hooks  or  hfters,  through  which 
Avires,  other  horizontal  ones  passed,  working  through  holes  in  a 
board,  against  slips  of  tin  or  copper,  precisely  the  same  way  as  in 
the  Jacquard  machine.  It  must  be  confessed  that  this  is  a  most 
remarkable  circumstance.  These  two  celebrated  workmen  (Beza- 
leel and  Aholiab)  "  were  filled  with  wisdom  of  heart  to  work  all 
manner  of  work  of  the  engraver,  and  of  the  cunning  workman^ 
and  of  the  embroiderer  in  blue,  and  in  purple,  in  scarlet,  and  in 
fine  linen,  and  of  the  weaver ;  even  of  them  that  do  any  work, 
and  of  those  that  devise  cunning  work."     (Exodus,  xxxv.  35.) 

Moses  also  makes  mention  of  the  preparation  of  gold  in  threads, 
to  be  interwoven  with  the  most  precious  cloths.     "  They  did  beat 


44  INTRODrCTION. 

the  gold  into  thin  plates,  and  cut  it  into  wires,  to  work  it  in 
the  blue,  and  in  the  purple,  and  in  the  scarlet,  and  in  the  fine 
linen,  vrith.  cunning  work."'  (Exodus  xxxix.  3.)  From  this  pas- 
sage it  is  evident  that  gold  thread,  or  rather  wire,  was  used  in 
weaAing,  which  thread  or  wire  it  also  appears,  was  cut  by  the  aid 
of  a  very  ingenious  contrivance  invented  by  one  Zurishaddai,  a  na- 
tive of  Sidon.  We  regret  that  in  spite  of  our  endeavours  to  obtain 
drawings,  or  description  of  this  apparatus  we  have,  as  yet,  been 
unsuccessful. 

We  also  learn  the  important  fact,  that  in  the  times  to  which  we 
refer,  cochineal  was  known,  as  well  as  the  mordants,  to  give  bril- 
liancy to  the  dye  ;  for  cochineal  bemg  a  natural  production  of  the 
East,  it  is  unreasonable  to  suppose  that  its  qualities  were  hidden 
from  the  ancients.  According  to  Aristotle,  the  Chinese  made  use 
of  it  for  ages  before  the  Jewish  dispensation  (Ure^s  authority  to  the 
contrary  notwithstanding.) 

The  cutting  of  gold  into  wire,  to  be  woven  into  cloth,  as  before 
observed  must  have  been  effected  by  means  of  an  astonishingly  in- 
genious contrivance,  (indeed,  it  must  have  been  a  very  shaving 
machine)  because  we  know  from  a  sample  of  the  cloth  which  we 
saw  at  Rome  (in  April  1S31)  that  such  wire  was  nearly  as  fine  as 
No.  205,  of  our  cotton  yarn  of  the  present  day.  While  this  curious 
specimen  was  being  exhibited  to  us  we  asked  the  showman,  if  it 
was  an  identical  sample  of  Bezaleel  and  Ahohab's  manufacture, 
when,  with  a  sarcastic,  sneer  which  we  shall  never  forget,  he 
pointed  to  his  Holiness'  certificate,  afiixed  to  it,  remarking,  that  if 
heretics  wanted  any  further  proofs  of  its  genuineness,  they  might 
go  to  the himself  and  enquire  ! 

Homer  asserts  that  the  delicate  gold  net  made  by  Vulcan,  the 
meshes  of  which  were  so  fine  that  the  gods  themselves  could  not 
see  them,  was  forged  by  the  Lemnian  deity  on  his  anvil.  But  this 
assertion  of  Homer  must  be  a  visionary  one,  or  else  his  godship 
understood  the  blacksmithing  business  much  better  than  most  of 
its  professors  in  the  nineteenth  century. 

"  Stung  to  the  soul,  indisrnant  through  the  skies 
To  his  black  forge  vindictive  Vulcan  flies, 
Arrived  his  sinewy  arms  incessant  place 
The  eternal  anvil  on  the  massy  base, 
A  wondrous  net  he  labours,  to  betray 
The  wanton  lovers  as  entwin'd  they  lay, 
Indissolubly  strong  !     Then  instant  bears 
To  his  immortal  dome  the  finish'd  snares. 


INTRODUCTION.  45 

Above,  below,  around  with  art  bespread 
The  sure  enclosure  folds  the  genial  bed. 
Whose  texture  e'en  the  search  of  gods  deceives, 
Thin  as  the  filmy  thread  the  spider  weaves." 

In  the  description  given  by  Lucan,  of  the  luxuries  with  which 
Cleopatra  allured  JuUus  Caesar,  it  is  asserted,  that  the  Egyptians 
united  embroidery  with  weaving,  in  the  preparation  of  their  richest, 
and  most  expensive  fabrics  : 

"  In  glowing  purple  rich  the  coverings  lie, 

Twice  had  they  drunk  the  noblest  Tyrian  dye, 

Others,  as  Phanan  artists,  have  the  skill 

To  mix  the  party-coloured  web  at  will, 

With  winding  trails  of  various  silks  were  made. 

Whose  branching  gold  set  off  the  rich  brocade." 

{Pharsalia  X.) 

We  find  that  the  finest  kinds  of  Egyptian  net  or  cross  work 
makes  a  very  near  approach  to  the  modern  lace,  (see  cross  weaving.) 
Indeed,  whatever  knowledge  we  possess  of  lace-making,  in  any 
shape,  we  are  indebted  for  it  to  eastern  genius,  and  which  we  think 
no  one  will  be  foolish  enough  to  question,  after  consulting  the  proofs 
we  have  already  given,  or  shall  yet  give  in  the  course  of  this  work. 

In  the  prophet's  denunciation  of  Divine  vengeance  against  the 
land  of  the  Pharoahs,  he  particularly  threatens  the  flax,  net,  and 
lace  mamifaclurers  :  "  Moreover,  they  that  work  in  fine  flax,  and 
they  that  weave  net-works  shall  be  confounded."     (Isaiah,  xix.  9.) 

The  thin  upper  dresses  worn  by  Egyptian  ladies  of  nohle  de- 
scent, which  were  so  delicate  as  to  be  called  woven  air,  appear  to 
have  been  lace  of  a  very  fine  mesh,  (being  only  1-1 6th  of  an  inch  in 
diameter.)  Such  a  dress  was  by  the  Hebrews  called  shehetz,  and 
this  word  is  the  term  by  which  Solomon  describes  the  vesture  worn 
by  Pharoah's  daughter  :  the  45th  Psalm,  though  it  has  a  secondary 
and  more  holy  signification,  being  in  its  primary  and  literal  sense  a 
hymeneal  ode  on  his  marriage  with  that  princess.  "  The  kings 
daughter  is  all  glorious  within  ;  her  clothing  is  of  wrought  gold  ; 
she  shall  be  brought  unto  the  king  in  raiment  of  needle-work,  the 
virgins,  her  companions  that  follow  her,  shall  be  brought  unto  thee." 
(Psalm  xlv.  13,  14.) 


46  INTRODUCTION. 

EGYPTIAN   SHEBETZ. 

'  NET-WORK,'    OR    '  OPEN-WORK.' 


TVe  have,  after  three  years  and  five  months  of  unceasing  research, 
at  last  procured  the  above  extraordmary  specimen  of  net- work  or 
lace,  knoAvn  to  the  ancients  by  the  appellation  of  '  open-work,'  and 
of  which  mention  is  so  frequently  made  in  the  scriptures.  Our 
drawing  was  made  from  a  piece  of  cloth  2|-  yards  in  length,  by 
45|:  inches  in  breadth,  which  now  forms  part  of  the  curious  collec- 
tion of  his  Highness  Mehemet  Ali,  the  present  vice-roy  of  Eg^-pt. 
We  are  assured  by  our  friend,  the  British  Consul  at  Cairo,  that  its 
genuineness  is  unquestionable,  and  as  for  the  faithfulness  of  our  re- 
presentation, nothing  more  need  be  said,  than  that  he  copied  it 
himself  from  the  original,  and  that  too  upon  exactly  the  same 
scale. 

The  machinery  used  in  the  manufacture  of  this  kind  of  lace 
must  have  been  astonishingly  complicated,  for  the  threads  are  so 
miraculously  linked,  crossed,  and  twisted  together,  that  we  are 
really  surprised  that  it  could  ever  have  been  produced  at  all.  There 
are  two  kinds  of  meshes  in  this  sample,  the  smaller  ones,  which 
we  have  marked  1.  2,  3,  4,  5,  and  6,  surround  one  of  the  large  kind, 
giving  it  the  appearance  of  a  honey  comb.  This  net  bears  a  close 
resemblance  to  the  Grecian  net.  but  it  is  on  a  miniature  scale  in 
comparison.  In  the  Grecian,  each  large  mesh  is  surrounded  by  ten 
small  ones,  so  that  there  is  a  greater  disproportion  between  the  sizes 
of  the  meshes  than  in  our  specimen.  There  is  httle  difference  in 
other  respects,  however. 

Through  the  instrumentality  of  our  old  friend,  Alexis  Kersivenus 
of  Alexandria,  we  have  also  received  another  specimen  of  Egyp- 


INTRODUCTION.  47 

tiaii  net,  of  an  entirely  different  stamp,  and  which  will  be  described 
in  the  part  of  this  work  headed  "  lace  manufacture." 

The  arts  which  flourished  in  Eg-ypt  previous  to  the  Jewish  dispen- 
sation, and  in  which  the  Pharoahs  tooiv  so  lively  an  interest,  would 
undoubtedly  have  reached  even  a  higher  state  of  perfection  than 
they  did,  had  they  been  allowed  to  continue  under  such  favourable 
circumstances  ;  but  after  the  subjugation  of  the  nation  by  Cambyses, 
525  years  before  our  Saviour,  the  arts  and  sciences  under  a  foreign 
yoke,  disappeared,  or  rather  ceased  to  be  indigenous  in  Egypt.  The 
Ptolemies,  indeed,  encouraged  them  ;  but  under  their  reigns  the 
arts  were  chiefly  controlled  by  Grecians.  The  Egyptians  had  de- 
generated from  the  knowledge  of  their  ancestors,  whose  hierogly- 
phics, they  themselves  no  longer  understood. 

Among  the  modern  Egyptians,  but  slight  remains  or  traces  of 
the  ancient  state  of  the  art  of  weaving  lace,  or  net-work,  are  now 
to  be  found. 

The  use  of  shebetz  or  net- work,  for  vests  and  petticoats,  enables 
us  to  explain  a  passage  in  which  several  modern  versions,  including 
the  English  authorised  version,  have  gone  astray,  by  supposing  that 
"  a  net"  was  used  metaphorically  for  entanglement,  and  consequent 
pain.  In  the  description  which  the  young  Amalekite  gave  David 
of  the  circumstances  attending  the  death  of  Saul,  he  stated,  "  He 
said  unto  me  again,  stand,  I  pray  thee,  upon  me,  and  slay  me ;  for 
anguish  is  come  upon  me,  because  my  life  is  yet  whole  in  me."  (2 
Sam.  i.  9.)  The  phrase  rendered  "  anguish  is  come  upon  me,"  literally 
signifies  "  this  net-work  has  entangled  me,"  clearly  alluding  to  his 
coat  of  mail,  which,  as  we  see  on  the  Egyptian  monuments,  was 
made  of  net-work,  to  the  meshes  of  which,  scales  of  metal  about 
the  size  of  a  dollar  were  attached.  This  circumstance  is  sufiicient 
proof  that  the  hteral  interpretation  is  preferable  to  the  figurative, 
especially  as  there  is  no  instance  of  the  word  shebetz  being  used  me- 
taphorically in  any  other  part  of  the  Bible. 

We  shall  conclude  this  part  of  our  subject  with  Lucan's  account 
of  the  excellence  to  which  they  attained  in  the  preparation  of  articles 
of  female  dress.  He  thus  describes  the  costume  of  Cleopatra,  when 
she  received  Juhus  Csesar  : 

"  Amidst  the  braidings  of  her  flowing  hair, 
The  spoils  of  Orient  rocks  and  shells  appear: 
Like  midnight  stars,  ten  thousand  diamonds  deck 
The  comely  rising  of  her  graceful  neck ; 
Of  wondrous  work  a  thin  transparent  lawn 
O'er  each  soft  breast  in  decency  was  drawn, 


48  INTRODUCTION. 

Where  still  by  turns  the  parting  threads  withdrew, 
And  all  the  panting  bosom  rose  to  view. 
Her  robe,  her  every  part,  her  air  confess 
The  power  of  female  skill  exhausted  in  her  dress." 
{PharsaUa  X.) 

The  Egyptians  allowed  greater  privileges  and  luxuries  to  their 
wives  than  any  other  ancient  nation.  Nothing  can  exceed  the 
splendour  of  their  queens  ;  thrones  were  constructed  for  their  pecu- 
liar use ;  even  barges,  boats,  and  yawls  seem  to  have  been  built  espe- 
cially for  their  service.  When  we  see  the  magnificence  surrounding 
the  Eo-yptian  queens,  we  can  scarcely  accuse  Shakespeare  of  exag- 
geration in  his  description  of  Cleopatra's  voyage  down  the  Cnydus : 

"  The  barge  she  sat  in,  Uke  a  burnished  throne 

Burn'd  on  the  water ;  the  poop  was  beaten  gold ; 

Purple  the  sails,  and  so  perfumed,  lliat 

The  winds  were  lovesick  with  them  ;  the  oars  were  silver, 

Which  to  the  tune  of  flutes  kept  stroke,  and  made 

The  water  which  they  beat  to  follow  faster, 

As  amorous  of  their  strokes.    For  her  own  person, 

It  beggared  all  description ;  she  did  he 

In  her  paviHon  (cloth  of  gold  of  tissue) 

O'er  picturing  that  Venus,  where  we  see 

The  fancy  outwork  nature :  on  each  side  her 

Stood  pretty  dimpled  boys  hke  smihng  Cupids. 

With  diverse  coloured  fans,  whose  wind  did  seem 

To  glow  the  delicate  cheeks  which  they  did  cool. 

And  what  they  vmdid  did. 

Her  gentlewomen  hke  the  Nereides, 

So  many  mermaids,  tended  her  i'the  eyes, 

And  made  their  bends  adornings :  at  the  helm 

A  seeming  mermaid  steers  ;  the  silken  tackle 

Swell  with  the  touches  of  those  flower  soft  hands 

That  yarely*  frame  the  office.    From  the  barge 

A  strange  invisible  perfume  hits  the  sense 

Of  the  adjacent  wharfs." 

Many  of  the  Egyptian  painters  display  considerable  talents  for 
caricature  in  their  representations  of  entertainments.  There  is  one 
in  the  British  Museum,  in  which  the  ladies  at  a  party  are  depicted 
discussing  the  merits  of  their  earrings,  and  the  arrangement  of  their 
plaited  hair,  with  an  eagerness  and  rivalry  which  are  highly  cha- 
racteristic. In  one  or  two  instances,  the  ungallant  artists  have  ex- 
hibited ladies  overcome  with  wine. 

*  Dexterously ;  skillfully ;  readily. 


INTRODUCTION.  49 

Though  Egypt,  as  we  have  shown,  made  rapid  strides  in  the 
manufacture  of  many  very  beautiful  kinds  of  textile  fabrics,  yet 
in  the  time  of  Joshua,  weaving  estabhsliments,  on  a  very  extensive 
scale,  were  found  in  the  land  of  Shinar,  viz.,  in  the  chief  city  of 
that  district,  ancient  Babylon  ;  and  the  machines  mostly  employed 
were  those  invented  by  B.  K.  Arphaxad,  and  which  have  been  al- 
ready described.  "  A  mantle  of  Shinar,"  or  as  our  translators 
have  rendered  it,  "  A  Babylonish  garment,"  was  secreted  by  Achan 
from  the  spoils  of  Jericho,  and  the  delinquent  speaks  of  it  as  the 
most  valuable  part  of  his  plunder.  Herodotus  says,  "  The  Baby- 
lonians wear  a  gown  of  linen  flowing  down  to  the  feet ;  over  this 
an  upper  woollen  garment,  and  a  white  tunic  covering  the  whole." 
Such  a  dress,  particularly  if  the  white  tunic  were  made  of  woollen, 
as  the  venerable  historian  seems  to  intimate,  must  have  been  too 
heavy  for  so  warm  a  climate,  particularly  m  summer,  and  hence  we 
may  be  led  to  suspect  that  Herodotus  included  vegetable  and  ani- 
mal wool  in  his  description,  especially  as  we  know  from  other 
authorities,  that  the  cotton  manufacture  was  established  in  Babylon 
at  a  very  early  period. 

From  the  book  of  Joshua,  as  already  quoted,  we  learn  that  the 
woven  stuffs  of  Babylon  were  not  confined  to  domestic  use,  but 
were  exported  into  foreign  countries.  The  two  chief  productions 
of  the  Babylonian  looms  were  carpets  and  shawls  ;  not  such  as  we 
manufacture  in  this  country,  but  far  superior  in  design  and  colour- 
ing. Carpets,  one  of  the  principal  objects  of  luxury  in  Asia  from 
the  remotest  ages,  were  no  where  so  finely  woven,  and  in  such 
rich  colours  as  at  Babylon.  We  know  not  when  the  fashion  of 
spreading  them  on  floors  was  introduced,  but  the  earliest  Greek 
historians  speak  of  them  as  commonly  used  for  this  purpose  in  the 
palaces  of  kings,  and  the  houses  of  the  wealthy.  On  the  Baby- 
lonian carpets  were  woven,  or  depicted,  representations  of  those 
fabulous  animals,  the  dragon,  the  griffin,  the  night-mare  in  all  its 
varieties,  and  other  unnatural  combinations  of  form,  probably 
originating  in  India,  with  which  we  have  become  acquainted  by 
the  ruins  of  Persepolis.  It  was  by  means  of  the  Babylonian 
manufactures,  that  the  knowledge  of  these  fanciful  and  imaginary 
beings,  was  conveyed  to  the  western  world,  and  from  them  they 
were  transferred  to  the  Greek  vases.  Foreign  nations  made  use  of 
the  Babylonian  carpets  in  the  decoration  of  their  harems  and 
royal  saloons  ;  but  no  where  was  this  species  of  luxury  carried  to 
such  an  excess  as  amongst  the  ancient  Persians.  With  them  not  only 
the  floors,  but  even  beds  and  sofas  in  the  houses  of  the  nobles,  were 

7 


50  INTRODUCTION. 

covered  with  two  or  three  of  these  carpets ;  nay,  the  oldest  of  their 
sacred  edifices,  the  tomb  of  Cyrus  at  Pasargada,  was  ornamented 
with  a  pmple  carpet  of  Babylonian  workmanship.  Sir  Gardiner 
Wilkinson,  on  the  authority  of  Diodorus  Siculus,  informs  us,  that 
carpets  were  used  in  Egypt,  where  they  were  spread  for  the  sacred 
animals,  and  Homer  reckons  a  carpet  among  the  luxuries,  with 
which  Menelaus,  who  visited  Egypt,  astonished  Telemachus,  when 
he  received  that  Prince  in  the  Palace  of  Sparta : 

"  The  seat  of  majesty  Adraste  brings. 
With  art  illustrious  for  the  pomp  of  kings. 
To  spread  the  pall,  beneath  the  regal  chair, 
Of  softest  wool,  is  bright  Acclipe's  care." 

(Odyssey,  IV.) 

A  small  piece  of  carpet,  or  rug,  has  lately  been  brought  from 
Egypt,  and  is  now  in  the  possession  of  lady  Hamilton  of  Amster- 
dam. It  is  fifty-six  and  a  half  inches  long,  and  thirty-six  broad  ; 
and  is  made,  like  Brussels  carpeting,  with  woollen  warp  for  the 
face  or  pile,  and  linen  twine  for  the  back.  In  the  middle  is  the 
figure  of  a  fox  in  scarlet,  with  a  night-owl  above  it,  the  hierogly- 
phic of  a  '  rogue,'  upon  an  orange  ground  ;  around  which  is  a 
border  composed  of  blue  and  purple  Unes  ;  the  remainder  is  a 
ground  of  light  pink,  with  violet  figures  of  the  pehcan  and  curlew 
above  and  below,  and  on  each  side  crimson  outlines  with  bright 
yellow  ornaments  ;  and  the  outer  borders  are  made  up  of  white, 
blue,  and  green  hnes  about  f  ths  of  an  inch  wide,  each  line  having 
fancy  devices  projecting  from  it,  with  a  triangular  summit  which 
extends  entirely  round  the  edge  of  the  carpet. 

Sir  Gardiner  Wilkinson,  also  gives  us  an  account  of  a  small  carpet 
rug  of  Egyptian  manufacture,  which  he  says  is  now  in  the  posses- 
sion of  a  Mr.  Hays.  It  does  not  diflfer  very  materially  from  the 
one  just  noticed.  "  This  rug,"saysSirG.W.,is  eleven  inches  long, 
by  nine  broad.  It  is  made,  like  many  carpets  of  the  present  day, 
with  woollen  threads  on  linen  strings.  In  the  centre  is  the  figure 
of  a  boy  in  white,  with  a  goose  above,  the  hieroglyphic  of  a 
'  child,'  upon  a  green  ground  ;  around  which,  is  a  border  composed 
of  red  and  blue  hnes ;  the  rest  is  a  ground  of  yellow,  with  four 
white  figures  above  and  below,  and  on  each  side  are  blue  outlines 
with  red  ornaments  ;  the  outer  border  being  made  up  of  red,  white, 
and  blue  lines,  with  a  fancy  device  projecting  from  it,  having  a  tri- 
angular summit,  which  extends  round  the  edge  of  the  rug. 
Its  date  is  uncertain  ;    but  fiom  the  child,  the  combination  of  the 


INTRODUCTION.  61 

colours,  and  the  ornament  of  the  border,  I  am  inclined  to  think  it 
really  Egyptian." 

The  Babylonian  shawls,  like  those  of  Persia,  were  adorned  both 
with  gold  and  variously  coloured  figures.  Hence,  Publius  Syrus 
compared  a  peacock's  tail,  to  a  figured  Babylonian  mantle  enriched 
with  gold.  Their  magnificent  appearance,  and  exquisite  texture, 
are  celebrated  both  by  the  Greek  and  Roman  writers.  It  was  always 
deemed  to  be  one  of  the  most  singular  displays  of  ascetism  in  the 
elder  Cato,  that  he  immediately  gave  away  a  splendid  Babylonian 
shawl,  which  some  foreign  potentate  had  bequeathed  to  him,  as  a 
remuneration  for  political  services. 

Next  to  the  carpets  and  shawls,  the  Babylonian  garments  called 
/Sindo7ies  were  held  in  the  highest  estimation.  From  the  descrip- 
tions given  of  them,  it  would  appear  that  they  were  in  all  probability 
a  cotton  fabric,  though  some  may  have  occasionally  been  made  of 
linen ;  for  we  find  from  the  Levitical  law,  that  linen  had  some  rehgious 
significance.  The  most  costly  Sindones,  Avere  so  highly  valued  for 
their  fineness  of  texture,  and  brilliancy  of  colour,  as  to  be  compared 
to  those  of  Media,  and  set  apart  for  royal  use  ;  they  were  even  to  be 
found  at  the  tomb  of  Cyrus,  which  was  profusely  decorated  with 
every  species  of  furniture  in  use  among  the  Persian  monarchs  dur- 
ing their  lives.  The  superiority  of  the  textile  fabrics  of  Babylonia, 
must  be  ascribed  to  their  spirit  of  commercial  freedom.  We  do  not 
find  in  their  history,  so  long  as  they  remained  a  commercial  and 
manufacturing  people,  any  proof  that  they  ever  imposed  restrictions 
upon  the  import  of  the  raw  material  of  manufactures,  or  that  which 
may  be  called  the  raw  material  of  operatives,  namely,  hummi  food. 
When  the  barbarous  Chaldeans  conquered  the  country  and  intro- 
duced the  spirit  of  monopoly,  the  commercial  spirit  of  Babylonia 
was  cankered  at  the  root,  and  its  pre-eminence  destroyed. 

The  Tyrians  are  chiefly  knoAvn  to  us  in  commercial  history  for 
their  skill  m  dyeing  ;  the  Tyrian  purple  formed  one  of  the  most 
general  and  principal  articles  of  luxury  in  antiquity :  but  dyeing 
could  scarcely  have  existed  without  weaving.  Homer,  for  instance, 
when  Hecuba,  on  the  recommendation  of  the  heroic  Hector,  resolves 
to  make  a  rich  offering  to  Minerva,  describes  her  as  selecting  one 
of  Sidonian  manufacture  as  the  finest  which  could  be  obtained. 


"  The  Phrygian  queen  to  her  rich  wardrobe  went 
Where  treasured  odours  breathed  a  costly  scent ; 
There  lay  the  vestures  of  no  vulgar  art — 
Sidonian  maids  embroider'd  every  part, 


52  INTRODUCTION. 

Whom  from  soft  Sidon  j'outliful  Paris  bore 
With  Helen,  touching  on  tiie  Tyrian  shore. 
Here,  as  the  queen  revolved  witli  careful  eyes 
The  various  textures  and  the  various  dyes, 
She  chose  a  veil  that  shone  superior  far, 
And  glow'd  refulgent  as  the  morning  star." 
{Iliad,  VI.) 

From  the  interesting  history  of  his  adventures,  wliich  Eunieus 
gives  to  Ulysses,  we  learn  that  Phenician  women,  on  account  of 
their  skill  in  weaving,  were  frequently  kidnapped  by  the  pirates  of 
the  Levant,  and  sold  m  the  Greek  islands. 

"  Freighted  it  seems  with  toys  of  every  sort 
A  ship  of  Sidon  anchor'd  in  our  port ; 
What  time  it  chanced  the  palace  entertain'd, 
Skill'd  in  rich  works,  a  woman  of  their  land ; 
This  nymph,  where  anchor'd  the  Phenician  train, 
To  wash  her  robes  descending  to  tlie  main, 
A  smooth-tongued  sailor  won  her  to  his  mind, 
(For  love  deceives  the  best  of  woman  kind) 
A  sudden  trust  from  sudden  liking  grew — 
She  told  her  name,  her  race,  and  all  she  knew. 
'  I  too,'  she  cried,  '  from  glorious  Sidon  came, 
My  father,  Arybas,  of  wealthy  fame  ; 
But  snatch'd  by  pirates  from  my  native  place 
The  Taphians  sold  me  to  this  man's  embrace.'  " 

{Odyssey,  XV.) 

Among  the  ancients,  the  husband  purchased  his  wife  by  money 
or  personal  services.  The  Ass3Tians  put  the  marriageable  women 
up  at  auction,  and  the  price  obtained  for  the  more  beautiful  vras  as- 
signed as  a  dowry  to  the  more  homely.  (See  Tytler's  Ancient  His- 
tory, page  IS.)  This  plan  (for  anything  we  see  to  the  contrary,) 
might  work  well  in  this  country,  even  at  the  present  time. 

Heeren  has  very  ably  shown  the  circimistances  which  tended  to 
foster  and  develop  the  woollen  manufactures  of  TjTe,  in  his  admira- 
ble "  Researches  into  the  Politics  and  Trade  of  Ancient  Nations."' 

"  The  wool  of  the  wilderness,"  says  this  able  writer,"  was  one  of 
the  wares  supplied  by  the  pastoral  tribes,  who  wandered  with  their 
flocks,  as  well  over  the  S^'rian,  as  over  the  Arabian  deserts.*  The 
fleece  of  their  sheep  is  the  finest  known ;  it  is  improved  by  the  heat 
of  the  climate,  the  continual  exposure  to  the  open  air,  and  the  care 
that  these  people  bestow  upon  their  flocks,  which  constitute  their 

♦  Ezekiel,  xxvii,  IS— 21. 


INTRODUCTION.  53 

only  business,  all  of  which  help  to  render  it  more  precious.*  The 
Arabian  sheep,  distinguished  from  the  European  by  their  immense 
tails,  were  known  to  Herodotus,  who  has  left  us  a  description  of 
them.t  "Arabia  likewise  possesses  two  extraordinary  breeds  of 
sheep,  neither  of  which  is  found  elsewhere.  One  of  these  has  long 
tails,  not  less  than  three  cubits  ;  and,  were  they  suffered  to  drag  be- 
hind them,  they  w^ould  become  sore  by  rubbing  against  the  ground. 
The  shepherds  therefore,  make  small  carriages,  and  fasten  them  un- 
der their  tails,  to  each  animal  one.  The  other  kind  of  sheep  have 
broad  tails,  each  an  ell  in  width." 

Herodotus  only  errs  in  taking  a  mere  variety  for  a  distinct 
species  ;  all  the  other  circumstances  he  here  mentions,  are  known 
to  modern  naturalists  and  travellers.  A  moment's  reflection  upon 
Tyrian  manufactures  of  woven  goods  and  their  dyes,  will  enable 
the  reader  at  once  to  perceive  the  great  importance  of  this  branch 
of  commerce.  It  converted  the  very  wilderness,  so  far  as  they  were 
concerned,  into  an  opulent  country,  which  afforded  them  the  finest 
and  most  precious  raw  materials,  for  their  principal  manufactures. 
This  circumstance,  too,  was  a  means  of  cementing  and  preserving  a 
good  understanding  between  them,  and  those  nomad  tribes  ;  a  mat- 
ter of  no  inconsiderable  importance  to  the  Phenicians,  as  it  was 
through  the  nomads,  that  the  rich  produce  of  the  southern  regions 
came  into  then-  hands. 

One  great  source  of  the  manufacturing  prosperity  of  Tyre  was 
the  absence  of  restrictions  on  the  importation  of  human  food.  The 
twenty-seventh  chapter  of  Ezekiel,  which  Michaelis  justly  describes 
as  the  most  ancient  monument  of  commercial  history,  informs  us 
that  Palestine  was  the  granary  of  the  Phenicians.  Their  own 
mountainous  territory  was  but  little  adapted  for  agriculture,  and 
they  were  too  wise  to  force  unproductive  soils  into  cultivation  by 
bounties  and  protective  duties  ;  Palestine,  their  commercial  ally, 
produced  corn  in  sufficient  abundance,  to  be  able  to  supply  them- 
selves plentifully,  with  this  first  necessary  of  life.  This  is  expressly 
declared  by  the  prophet :  "  Judah  and  the  land  of  Israel,  they  were 
thy  merchants  ;  they  traded  in  thy  market  wheat  of  Minnith,  and 
Pannag,  and  honey,  and  oil,  and  balm."  (Ezekiel,  xxvii.  17.) 
Heeren  has  very  properly  called  attention  to  the  marked  effect  of 
this  commercial  intercourse,  in  preserving  the  harmony  of  the  two 


*  See  Michaelis  on  the  Wandering  Shepherds,  in  his  Vemiischten  Schrif- 
ten,  b.  i.  s.  6. 
t  Herod,  iii.  113. 


54  INTRODUCTION. 

nations ;  it  is,  indeed,  a  memorable  example  of  freedom  of  trade, 
becoming  the  very  bond  of  peace. 

The  fact  that  Palestine  was  the  granary  of  the  Phenicians,  ex- 
plains in  the  clearest  manner,  the  good  understanding,  and  lasting 
peace  that  prevailed  between  these  two  nations.  It  is  a  striking 
feature  in  the  Jewish  history,  that  ^\4th  all  other  nations  around 
them,  they  hved  in  a  state  of  almost  continual  warfare  ;  and  that 
under  David  and  Solomon,  they  even  became  conquerors,  and  sub- 
dued considerable  countries,  and  yet  with  their  nearest  neighbours, 
the  Phenicians,  they  never  engaged  in  hostihties.  But  if  a  sense 
of  their  weakness  prevented  them  from  attacking  these  mighty 
cities,  the  natural  policy  of  the  Phenicians,  no  less  on  the  other 
hand,  restrained  from  any  hostile  attempt  on  a  country  from  which 
they  drew  their  subsistence  :  to  which  it  may  be  added,  that  it 
seems  to  have  been  a  maxim  among  them  to  avoid  all  wars  and 
forcible  extension  of  their  dominion  over  the  continent  of  Asia. 

We  learn  from  Ezekiel,  that  although  the  Phenicians  were 
manufacturers  themselves,  they  freely  imported  textile  fabrics  from 
other  countries.  "  Fine  Imen  with  broidered  work  from  Egpyt  was 
that  which  thou  spreadest  forth  to  be  thy  sail ;  purple  and  scarlet 
from  the  isles  of  Elishah,  was  that  which  covered  thee."  (Ezekiel, 
xxvii.  7.)  The  Egyptian  manufacturers  have  been  aheady  men- 
tioned ;  "  the  isles  of  Elishah  ?''  is  a  name  given  to  the  islands, 
and  southern  peninsula  of  Greece,  and  this  name  was  for  many 
centuries  pei-petuated  in  that  part  of  the  Pelopoimesus  called  Elis. 
This  passage  affords  another  singular  proof,  of  the  freedom  of  com- 
merce estabhshed  among  the  Tyrians  ;  for,  though  dyeing  m  pur- 
ple was  one  of  the  staple  branches  of  their  national  industry,  we 
find  them  freely  importing  purple  stuffs  from  the  Peloponnesus. 

Only  vague  and  uncertain  traditions  or  allusions  in  the  ancient 
poets,  give  us  any  information  respecting  the  progress  of  textile 
industry  in  Asia  Minor,  the  Ionian  colonies,  and  the  islands  of  the 
Egean.  Homer,  as  we  have  already  seen,  represents  the  Trojan 
ladies  as  peculiarly  devoted  to  the  spindle  and  loom  ;  and  Theo- 
critus in  his  exquisite  Eighteenth  Idyll,  the  Epithalamium  of  Helen, 
introduces  the  Trojan  ladies  celebrating  the  skill  of  Helen  in  weav- 
ing, as  not  less  worth)^  of  praise  than  her  unrivalled  charms. 

'•  When  winter  thus  in  night  no  longer  lours 
And  spring  is  usher'd  by  the  blooming  hours, 
The  rising  morning,  with  her  radiant  eyes, 
Salutes  the  world,  and  brightens  Eill  ihe  skies ; 


INTRODUCTION.  55 

So  shines  fair  Helen,  by  the  Graces  drest, 
In  face,  shape,  size,  superior  to  the  rest : 
As  corn  the  fields,  as  pines  the  gardens  grace, 
As  steeds  of  Thessaly  the  chariot  race  ; 
So  Helen's  beauties  bright  encomiums  claim, 
And  beam  forth  honour  on  the  Spartan  name. 
What  nymph  can  rival  Helen  at  the  loom, 
And  make  fair  art  like  living  nature  bloom  1 
The  blended  tints,  in  sweet  proportion  join'd, 
Express  the  soft  ideas  of  her  mind." 

(Idyll,  XVIII.) 

Both  Horace  and  Virgil  have  celebrated  the  fine  woollen  cloths 
of  Miletus,  which  were  held  in  high  esteem  by  the  Roman  ladies. 

In  another  Idyll,  Theocritus  incidentally  notices  the  great 
superiority  in  the  textile  manufacture  of  the  Greeks,  who  had 
settled  in  the  eastern  countries,  over  those  who  had  colonized 
Sicily  and  Southern  Italy :  we  allude  to  the  very  amusing  record 
of  the  gossip  between  two  Syracusan  ladies,  who  had  come  to 
Alexandria  for  the  purpose  of  witnessing  the  magnificent  shows 
and  solermiities,  prepared  by  Arsinoe,  the  queen  of  Ptolemy  Phila- 
delphus,  to  celebrate  the  feast  of  Adonis,  revived  under  her  aus- 
pices. Nothing  seems  to  have  excited  the  wonder  of  their  fair 
ladies  more  than  the  magnificent  tapestries  which  adorned  the 
Greco-Egyptian  palace  of  the  Ptolemies,  and  they  express  their  as- 
tonishment very  naturally  after  having  elbowed  their  way  through 
the  crowd. 

PRAXINOE. 

"  See  how  the  folks,  poor  Erinoe,  justle ! 
Push  through  the  crowd,  girl !— bustle,  bustle  1 
Now  we're  all  in. 

GORGO. 

Lo !  what  rich  hangings  grace  the  rooms  !— 
Sure  they  were  wrought  in  heavenly  looms  I 

PRAXINOE. 

Gracious !  how  delicately  fine 

The  work  !  how  noble  the  design  ! 

How  true,  how  happy  is  the  draught ! 

The  figures  seem  inform'd  with  thought — 

No  artist  sure  the  story  wove — 

They're  real  men,— they  live,  they  move. 

From  these  amazing  works  we  find 

How  great,  how  wise  the  human  mind  ! 

Lo  !  stretch'd  upon  a  silver  bed, 

(Scarce  has  the  down  his  cheeks  o'erspread) 


56  INTRODUCTION. 

Adonis  lies  !  O  charming  show  ! 
Loved  by  the  sable  powers  below ! 

STRANGER. 

Hist !  your  Sicilian  prate  forbear, 
Your  mouths  extend  from  ear  to  ear  ; 
Like  turtles  that  for  ever  moan 
You  stun  us  with  your  rustic  tone. 

GORGO. 

Sure  !  we  may  speak !  What  fellow 's  this  1 
And  do  you  take  it,  sir,  amiss  1 
Go,  keep  Egyptian  slaves  in  awe ; 
Think  not  to  give  Sicilians  law." 

{Idyll,  XV.) 

There  is  not  a  little  humour  in  the  gossiping,  gadabout  Syracu- 
san  ladies,  thus  unceremoniously  branding  the  Greek  ladies  of 
Egypt  as  slaves,  because  they  stayed  at  home  to  attend  to  the  la- 
bours of  the  spindle  and  shuttle,  instead  of  running  about  the  streets 
to  see  the  gorgeous  spectacles  of  the  festival,  like  many  worthless 
Jiirts  of  our  own  day.  The  poet  in  several  other  passages,  refers 
to  the  domestic  industry  of  the  Asiatic  Greeks,  so  different  from  the 
indolence  of  the  fair  Sicilians. 

The  island  of  Cos  very  early  enjoyed  a  high  reputation  for  its 
textile  fabrics,  and  their  excellent  purple  dyes.  In  the  age  of  Au- 
gustus they  were  esteemed  the  most  becoming  ornaments  to  ladies, 
anxious  to  direct  attention  to  their  charms.  Hence  Horace,  re- 
proaching Lyce,  says, 

"  Not  Coan  purple,  nor  the  blaze 
Of  jewels,  can  restore  the  days, — 

To  thee,  those  days  of  glory, 
Which  wafted  on  the  wings  of  time, 
E'en  from  thy  birth  to  beauty's  prime 

Recorded  stand  in  story." 

{Book  IV.     Ode  XIII.) 

From  the  description  which  Horace  gives  of  the  Coan  robes  in 
the  second  satire  of  his  first  book,  and  from  the  parallel  passages  in 
contemporary  poets,  we  learn  that  the  Coan  robe  had  a  great  degree 
of  transparency,  that  it  was  remarkably  fine,  that  it  was  chiefly 
worn  by  women  of  light  character,  (nymphs  of  the  pave)  that  it 
was  usually  dyed  purple,  and  sometimes  enriched  with  stripes  of 
gold.  It  is  by  some  writers  supposed  to  have  been  made  of  silk, 
because,  as  we  learn  from  Aristotle,  silk  was  at  a  very  early  period 
spun  and  woven  in  Cos,  and  was  the  chief  cause  of  the  high  ce- 


INTRODUCTION.  57 

lebrity  attained  by  the  manufactures  of  that  island.     Hence  Tibul- 
lus  promises  his  mistress, 

"  Since  beauty  sighs  for  spoil,  for  spoil  I'll  fight! 

In  all  my  plunder  Nemesis  shall  shine. 

Yours  be  the  profit ;  be  the  peril  mine. 

To  deck  your  heavenly  charms  the  silkworm  dies, 

Embroidery  labours,  and  the  shuttle  flies." 

(Eleg.  ii.  6.) 

In  a  painting  discovered  at  Pompeii,  there  is  a  representation  of 
a  lady  weaving  a  tunic  of  almost  perfect  transparency,  which  may 
probably  have  been  a  Coan  vest ;  but,  so  far  as  we  are  enabled  to 
judge  from  such  imperfect  evidence,  we  should  believe  it  to  be  a 
thin  muslin.  Pliny,  however,  distinctly  asserts,  that  the  Coan 
dresses  were  made  of  silk.  "  The  Grecian  women,"  he  says,  "  un- 
ravel the  silks  imported  from  Asia,  and  then  weave  them  anew, 
whence  that  fine  tissue,  of  which  frequent  mention  is  made  in  the 
Roman  poets  under  the  name  of  Coan  vests^  Salmasius  has 
shown,  that  Pliny  in  this  case  misunderstood  the  passage  of  Aris-* 
totle's  Natural  History,  to  which  he  referred.  The  Greek  means 
nothing  more  than  "  females  wind  off  the  web  of  the  silk  worm, 
and  then  weave  the  threads,"  not  as  Pliny  would  interpret  it, 
"  unravel  the  texture  of  the  dress  and  then  weave  it  over  again." 

The  practice  of  weaving  in  the  island  of  Scycos,  is  proved  by  the 
description  which  the  poets  have  given  of  the  occupations  of  Achil- 
les, when  concealed  there  in  a  female  dress.  This  tale  is  prettily 
told  by  Moschus : — ■ 

"  In  close  disguise  his  life  Achilles  led 
Among  the  daughters  of  king  Lycomed : 
Instead  of  arms  the  hero  learn'd  to  cull 
The  snowy  fleece,  and  weave  the  twisted  wool. 
Like  theirs,  his  cheeks  a  rosy  bloom  display'd ; 
Like  them,  he  seem'd  a  fair  and  lovely  maid  ; 
As  soft  his  air,  as  delicate  his  tread  ; 
Like  them,  he  cover'd  with  a  veil  his  head." 

{Idyll,  VII.) 

It  is  obvious  that  with  such  a  piece  of  mechanism  as  Arphaxad's 
vertical  loom,  and  the  use  of  several  colours,  splendid  patterns  could 
be  produced.  Those  fabrics  "  of  many  colours"  were  highly  valued 
as  dresses  in  patriarchal  ages,  and,  indeed,  have  always  been  re- 
garded in  the  East  as  symbols  of  rank  and  distinction.  Hence  we 
may  explain  the  cause  of  jealousy  to  which  Joseph  was  exposed 
when  Jacob  presented  him  with  a  dress  superior  to  those  worn  by 

8 


58  INTRODUCTION. 

his  brethren.  According  to  Pope  Leo  X,  this  dress  was  woven  by 
Arphaxad's  power  loom,  in  the  city  of  iSinevah.  Tlie  sacred  liis- 
torian  relates,  "  Now  Israel  loved  Joseph  more  than  all  his  children, 
because  he  was  the  son  of  his  old  age  :  and  he  made  him  a  coat 
of  many  colours.  And  when  his  brethren  saw.  that  their  father 
loved  him  more  than  all  his  brethren,  they  hated  him,  and  could 
not  speak  peaceably  unto  him."'  (Gen.  xxxvii.  3,  4.)  Their  env)^ 
was  excited  not  only  by  the  superior  beauty  of  his  dress,  but  by  his 
father's  having  apparently  invested  him  with  some  special  dignity 
or  authority  over  his  brethren,  of  which  the  ornamental  garment 
was  the  outward  sign.  Even  at  this  day  Eastern  potentates,  when 
they  confer  office  upon  a  favourite,  present  him  with  a  khelat,  or 
dress  of  honour,  as  a  symbol  of  the  rank  to  which  he  has  been  ele- 
vated. It  appears  that  the  statement  made  by  his  Hohness  (Leo  X.) 
about  Joseph's  coat  cannot  be  rehed  upon  as  being  correct,  as  we 
find  it  recorded  by  Basharaboo,  a  Persian  author,  that  Jacob  ob- 
tained the  cloth  '•  of  many  colours"  from  the  city  of  Babylon. 

Lesbos  was  also  remarkable  for  the  practice  of  weaving  as  an 
important  branch  of  domestic  industry.  Among  the  fragments  of 
Sappho,  we  find  part  of  an  ode  addressed  by  the  poetess  to  her 
mother,  as  an  apology  for  neglecting  the  labours  of  the  loom  : 

"  Cease,  genile  mother,  cease  your  sharp  reproof, 
My  hands  no  more  can  ply  the  curious  woof; 
While  on  my  mind  the  flames  of  Cupid  prey. 
And  lovely  Phaon  steals  my  soul  away." 

{Prag.  IV.) 

The  fable  of  Hercules  and  Omphale  proves  that  textile  manufac- 
tures were  very  early  established  in  Lydia  ;  they  were  patronized 
by  the  kings  of  the  successive  dynasties  :  and  some  of  the  spinning 
and  weaving  estabhshments  were  so  extensive  as  to  deserve  the 
name  of  factories.  Lydian  and  Phrygian  dresses  were  largely  im- 
ported into  Italy  in  the  reign  of  the  Cesars  ;  St.  Luke  mentions 
their  traffic  in  purple  dyes,  in  the  acts  of  the  Apostles.  Attains,  one 
of  the  petty  sovereigns  of  Asia  Minor,  is  honourably  mentioned  by 
Phny  as  a  monarch  who  zealously  exerted  himself  to  promote 
manufacturing  indvistry  among  his  subject*  ;  he  introduced  the 
manufacture  of  gold  tissue  into  his  httle  principality  of  Pergamus 
wdth  so  much  success,  that  this  species  of  luxurious  cloth  retained 
the  name  of  Attalic  to  the  later  ages  of  the  Roman  empue.  In  the 
western  world  Carthage  appears  to  have  been  the  principal  seat  of 
manufacturing  industry,  as  it  unquestionably  was  of  commercial 
enterprise.     Its  carpets  and  shauls  were  particularly  celebrated. 


INTRODUCTION.  59 

and  appear  to  have  brought  as  high  a  price  as  those  of  Lydia.  An 
entire  book  was  written  by  Polemo  "  Concerning  the  shawls  of 
Carthage."  But  from  the  time  that  the  fatal  ambition  of  the  Bar- 
cine  family  changed  Carthage  from  a  commercial  to  a  belligerent 
state,  its  textile  establishments  seem  to  have  declined,  for  only  faint 
traces  of  their  existence  can  be  found  in  Roman  writers. 

The  weaving  establishments  of  the  Medes  and  Persians  were 
very  extensive,  and  Persian  carpets  had  as  high  a  name  in  ancient 
times  as  at  the  present  day. 

Of  the  manufactures  of  India  we  can  convey  to  our  readers  no 
better  idea,  than  by  giving  Dr.  F.  Buchanan's  description  of  them, 
which  we  copy  from  his  second  volume  of  a  manuscript  account  of 
Behar  and  Patna,  preserved  in  the  library  of  the  honourable  East 
India  Company. 

"  A  great  deal  of  the  cotton  is  freed  from  the  seed  by  the  women 
who  spin  it,  and  a  part  of  this  is  also  beaten  by  the  same  persons ; 
but  the  Dhuniyas,  who  make  a  profession  of  cleaning  and  beating 
cotton,  separate  the  seed  from  some,  and  beat  the  greater  part. 
Perhaps  one  third  of  them  have  stock  enough  to  enable  them  to  buy 
a  little  cotton,  which  they  clean  and  then  retail ;  the  remainder 
work  entirely  for  hire.  A  man  and  his  wife  can  make  from  three 
to  four  rupees  a  month.  In  country  places  they  are  often  paid 
in  grain.  At  Arwal  they  are  allowed  1^  sers  of  grain  for  beating 
one  ser  of  cotton  ;  and  in  one  day  a  man  beats  four  sers  (45  S.  W.) 
equal  to  about  4-|-  lbs.,  and  of  course  receives  6f  lbs.  of  grain- 
Those  who  have  a  little  capital  may  make  4  or  5  rupees  a  month. 
"In  every  division  I  procured  an  estimate  of  the  proportion  of  wo- 
men who  spin  cotton,  of  the  average  quantity  of  cotton  that  each 
spins,  and  of  the  value  of  the  thread.  Such  estimates  are  hable  to 
numerous  objections ;  but  it  is  probable  when  a  number  of  them 
are  taken,  that  the  errors  of  the  one  will  be  nearly  corrected  by  those 
of  the  others,  so  that  the  average  will  not  be  far  from  the  truth. 
Allowing  that  the  women  of  an  age  fit  to  spin  are  one-fifth  of  the  popula- 
tion, the  estimates  that  I  procured  will  give  for  the  whole  thus  employ- 
ed 330,426  spinners.  Now  by  far  the  greater  part  of  these  spin  only 
a  few  hours  in  the  afternoon ;  and,  upon  the  average  estimate,  the 
whole  value  of  the  thread  that  each  spins  in  the  year  is  worth  nearly 
711.  2A.  8P.,  giving  for  the  total  annual  value  2,367,277  rupees ; 
and  by  a  similar  average  calculation,  the  raw  material,  at  the  retail 
price  will  amount  to  1,286,272  rupees,  leaving  a  profit  of  1,081,005 
rupees  for  the  spinners,  or  3^  rupees  for  each.  But  there  are  many 
women  who  spin  assiduously,  and  who  have  no  interruptions  from 


60  INTRODUCTION. 

husband  or  children,  and  these  make  much  more,  especially  where 
the  thread  is  fine  ;  there  being  no  sort  of  comparison  between  the 
reward  allowed  for  such,  and  that  given  to  those  who  spin  coarse 
thread.  As  the  demand,  therefore,  for  fine  goods  has  been  for  some 
years  constantly  diminishing,  the  women  have  suffered  very  much. 
Another  calculation  agrees  so  well  with  the  above  that  I  have  httle 
doubt  of  the  general  accuracy  of  both.  An  estimate  was  made  in 
each  of  the  divisions  of  the  number  of  looms  employed,  of  the  quan- 
tity and  value  of  thread  required  annually  for  each,  if  employed  in 
working  at  the  usual  rate,  and  the  most  usual  kind  of  goods,  and 
the  following  is  the  result : 

Rupees. 

Cotton  thread  required  for  cotton  cloths,    -----  2,229,979 

do.                    for  mixed  cloths,    -----  101,762 

do.                   for  tape,  carpets,  tent-ropes,  &c.,   -        -  37,125 

do.                   for  sewing  thread,  &c.,          -        -        .  2,000 

2,370,866 

"Some  thread  is  both  exported  and  unported.  Taking  the  amount 
of  the  statements,  the  excess  of  that  imported  will  be  worth  30,500 
rupees,  which  could  reduce  the  demand  on  the  thread  of  this  district 
to  about  2,340,356  rupees  in  place  of  2,367,277  rupees,  which  I 
have  allowed  to  be  spun ;  but.  at  Bhagalpur,  it  was  said  that  1,450 
rupees  worth  of  thread  was  there  imported  from  Patna ;  and  at 
Puraniya  there  is  imported  to  the  value  of  12,000  rupees,  of  which 
a  half  comes  probably  from  the  same  town,  while  the  merchants 
here  only  allowed  an  export  of  3,420  rupees. 

"The  whole  thread  is  spun  on  the  small  wheel  common  in  India, 
and  the  implements  for  cleaning  and  beating  the  cotton  are  not 
different  from  those  that  are  usual.  No  rank  is  considered  here  as 
degraded  by  spinning. 

"The  cotton  weavers  are  numerous.  Those  of  Phatuha  are  em- 
ployed in  weaving  cotton  diaper,  (khes.)  which  the  natives  use  as  a 
dress  ;  but  the  great  demand  is  for  Europeans,  who  use  the  manu- 
facture for  table  linen.  By  far  the  greater  proportion  of  the  cotton 
weavers  is  employed  in  making  coarse  cloths  for  country  use,  but  a 
good  many  make  finer  goods  for  exportation.  The  amount  of 
thread  required  is  1,771,379  rupees,  and  the  value  of  the  cloth 
2,438.621  rupees,  leaving  a  profit  of  667.232  rupees,  or  2S|^  rupees 
for  each  loom.  It  may  be  supposed  that  the  finer  qualities  of  goods 
taken  for  exportation  would  diminish  the  value  of  the  raw  material, 
and  increase  the  total  value  of  the  commodity,  but  that  would  not 
appear  to  be  the  case.     Although  the  quantity  of  thread  is  no  doubt 


INTRODUCTION.  61 

less,  yet  as  the  reward  for  spinning  the  fine  is  much  higher  than  that 
for  spinning  the  coarse,  the  actual  vahie  is  perhaps  a  httle  higher 
than  I  have  stated,  and  may  reduce  the  average  profit  to  28  rupees 
a  year  for  each  loom.  Each  man  on  becoming  bound  (asami)  to 
the  Company  receives  2  rupees,  and  engages  not  to  work  for  any 
person  until  he  has  made  as  much  as  the  Company  requires  ;  no 
other  advance  has  ever  been  made  by  the  commercial  residents. 
The  agent  orders  each  man  to  make  a  certain  number  of  pieces  of 
such  or  such  goods,  and  he  is  paid  for  each  on  delivery  according 
to  the  price  stated  in  the  tables.  This  shows  clearly  that  the  sys- 
tem of  advance  is  totally  unnecessary ;  but  it  is  here  pursued  by 
all  the  native  dealers,  as  keeping  the  workmen  in  a  state  of  depen- 
dence, little  better,  if  so  good,  as  slavery. 

"The  loom  is  of  the  imperfect  structure  usual  in  India  ;  and  where 
starch  is  used  to  facilitate  the  working,  it  is  made  from  the  root 
called  kandri.  It  must  be  observed  that  all  the  Indian  weavers 
who  work  for  common  sale,  make  the  woof  of  one  end  of  the  cloth 
coarser  than  that  of  the  other,  and  attempt  to  sell  it  to  the  unwary  by 
the  fine  end,  although  every  one  almost  who  deals  with  them  is  per- 
fectly aware  of  the  circumstance,  and  although  in  the  course  of  his 
life  any  weaver  may  not  ever  have  an  opportunity  of  gaining  by 
this  means.  The  same  desire  of  illicit  gain  induces  him  almost 
universally  to  make  the  pieces  somewhat  shorter  than  the  regular 
length. 

"The  coarser  goods  intended  for  market  sale  are  always  sold  as 
they  come  from  the  loom,  but  those  intended  for  private  sale  are  all 
bleached,  and  many  of  them  undergo  operations  by  diflferent  classes 
of  tradesmen.  It  must  be  observed  that  in  this  district  the  weavers 
were  bound  to  act  as  porters  for  conveying  the  goods  of  travellers  ; 
and  when  any  person  of  rank  or  authority  calls  upon  the  zemindar 
for  such,  the  weavers  are  still  required  to  perform  this  ofl^ice.  On 
some  estates  they  are,  on  this  account,  allowed  an  exemption  from 
ground-rent  for  their  houses  ;  on  others  they  are  taxed  at  a  higher 
than  usual  rate. 

"At  Behar,  a  class  of  artists  called  parchahkush  is  employed  to 
put  all  the  threads  in  the  bleached  cloth  at  equal  distances.  (See 
the  drawing  marked  Fig.  A,  of  Arkite  Ghiden  Ghelen's  loom,  where 
this  delicate  operation  is  being  effected  by  the  female  figure  in  front.) 
The  cloth  made  there  being  very  thin,  the  operation  of  bleaching 
brings  the  threads  into  clusters,  leaving  many  parts  almost  in  holes. 
These  workmen  place  all  the  threads  at  equal  distances  with  a 
wooden  comb.     In  some  other  places  a  needle  is  used.     Many  fine 


62  INTRODUCTION. 

pieces  of  cloth  are  ornamented  at  the  ends  with  the  flattened  gold 
and  silver  wire  called  bad-la.  which,  as  the  natives  use  the  pieces 
entire,  looks  very  showy.  It  is  not  woven  into  the  cloth,  but  put  in 
with  a  needle. 

'•In  each  piece  of  the  muslins  of  Behar,  the  pieces  of  which  are 
two  cubits  wide,  the  workmen  who  perform  this  operation  stitch 
from  5  to  7  bands  of  this  bad-la,  each  consisting  of  350  wires. 
The  workmen  receive  4  anas  for  the  100  :  and  a  man  can  daily 
put  m  from  50  to  70.  Allow  that  he  puts  in  60,  and  works  26 
days  a-mouth,  he  will  receive  about  4  rupees,  (3  At) ;  and  32.000 
cubits  of  the  wire  costing  one  rupee,  he  has  about  3  Fe  rupees  a- 
month  for  profit. 

"The  Chhapagars  put  gold  and  silver  flowers  on  fine  muslm  by  a 
very  shnple  process.  They  stamp  the  cloth  in  the  form  wished 
with  common  glue,  and  then  apply  gold  and  silver  leaf,  which  ad- 
heres to  the  glue,  but  rubs  off  where  that  has  not  been  apphed. 
Of  course  this  cloth  cannot  be  washed,  but  is  very  showy,  and  used 
only  on  high  occasions. 
'•'All  the  blanket  weavers  are  shepherds."' 

The  progress  of  weaving  in  Greece  seems  to  have  been  slow  ;  at 
leEist  those  fabrics  of  the  finest  description,  were  imported  from  Asia, 
durmg  the  classic  ages,  at  a  cheaper  rate  than  they  could  be  pro- 
duced in  Greece. 

There  were,  however,  several  large  manufactories  for  the  weav- 
ing of  pallia,  a  word  which  might  be  more  properly  translated 
blankets  than  cloaks.  They  were  indeed,  sometunes  coloured,  but 
in  these  cases  the  wool  was  dyed  in  its  raw  state,  and  the  palls 
were  worn  in  the  very  form  in  which  they  were  taken  from  the 
loom. 

They  were  rectangular  pieces  of  cloth,  and  were  used  indifferently 
for  cloaks  by  day  and  for  coverlets  by  night ;  we  find  them  also 
employed  as  horse-cloths,  and  even  as  carpets.  Thus  in  St.  Luke's 
description  of  Christs  triumphant  entry  into  Jerusalem,  we  read 
that  the  disciples  "  cast  their  garments  upon  the  colt,  and  they  set 
Jesus  thereon  :  and  as  he  went,  the)'  spread  their  clothes  in  the 
way  :"  (Luke  xix.  35,  36.)  This  was  an  oriental  form  of  recog- 
nizing Jesus  as  king,  and  it  is  still  observed  in  many  eastern 
countries,  during  the  royal  progresses  of  their  monarchs.  The 
cumbrous  paUs  were  occasionally  laid  aside  when  any  work  was  to 
be  done  requiring  great  exertion.  Thus  we  read  in  the  Acts  of  the 
Apostles,  that  those  who  vrent  to  stone  the  Proto-martyr  Stephen, 
"  laid  down  their  cloaks  at  the   feet  of  Saul,"'      (Acts,  vii.  58.) 


INTRODUCTION.  63 

Thus  also  Telemachus,  when   attempting  to  bend  the  bow  of 

Ulysses, 

"  His  girdle  loosed,  his  glitt'ring  sword  unbound, 
And  cast  his  purple  mantle  on  the  ground." 

(Odyssey,  XXII.) 

Sometimes,  however,  the  pall  was  gathered  close  round  the  body, 
leaving  the  upper  part  of  the  frame  naked  ;  a  custom  to  which  the 
phrase,  making  "bare  the  arm,"  of  such  frequent  occurrence  in  the 
Old  Testament  obviously  alludes.  In  a  favourite  old  hymn  we 
find, 

"Make  bare  thine  arm,  great  King  of  kings. 
Thine  arm  alone  salvation  brings. 

There  were  many  establishments  for  the  weaving  of  blankets 
and  palls  both  in  Greece  and  Italy ;  but  particularly  in  Megara, 
where  the  manufacture  of  coarse  blankets  formed  the  staple  trade 
of  the  country.  The  work  was  performed  by  slaves,  who  wrought 
in  factories,  the  spinning  being  usually  done  by  females,  and  the 
weaving  by  males.  Several  factories  of  the  same  kind  were  estab- 
lished in  Italy,  but  their  productions  were  chiefly  used  by  the 
working  classes ;  persons  of  superior  rank  either  used  dresses 
imported  from  the  East,  or  those  which  were  wrought  in  their  own 
household. 

We  must  regard  the  spinning  and  weaving  of  Greece  and  Italy 
as  a  purely  domestic  manufacture ;  indeed,  every  considerable 
house,  especially  in  the  rural  districts,  had  its  spinning  and  weav- 
ing rooms,  with  all  the  apparatus  necessary  for  the  manufacture 
both  of  flax  and  wool.  Thus  Virgil  in  his  description  of  rural  em- 
ployments during  winter,  says, 

"  The  wife  and  husband  equally  conspire 
To  work  by  night,  and  make  the  winter  fire : 
He  sharpens  torches  in  the  glimmering  room, 
She  shoots  the  Jlying  shuttle  tlirough  the  loom." 

(Georgia,  /.) 

No  doubt  the  "  flying  shuttle  "  here  referred  to,  is  the  same  as 
that,  the  invention  of  which  is  claimed  by  the  English,  for  their 
countryman,  one  John  Kay  of  Bury. 

In  most  of  the  old  Grecian  and  Roman  looms  the  process  of 
weaving  was  downwards,  and  the  weft  was  driven  home  by  an  in- 
strument called  a  spatha,  which  'was  similar  to  a  wooden  sword. 
In  later  times  the  spatha  was  superceded  by  a  comb,  and  this  is 


64  INTRODUCTION. 

the  instrument  now  used  by  the  Hindoos.     In  our  looms  the  process 
is  effected  by  the  reed  and  batten. 

The  Romans  kept  their  warp  yarns  parallel  by  rolling  them  care- 
fully on  a  cylinder,  which  unwound  and  gave  out  yarn  as  it  was 
wanted  ;  a  process  which  in  modern  manufactures  is  called  "  beam- 
ing the  web,"'  while  the  iSorthern  nations  were  forced  to  pass  the 
threads  of  the  warp  over  a  transverse  rod  or  plank,  and  then  divid- 
ing them  into  thirt)?^  or  forty  parcels,  to  attach  a  stone  or  some  heavy 
weight  to  each  parcel,  for  the  purpose  of  keeping  the  warp  yarns 
in  their  perpendicular  direction,  and  allowing  free  play  for  the  stroke 
of  the  spatha. 

THE  ART  OF  WEAVING. 

"The  art  of  weaving  is  exceeding  old, 
As  we  by  king  Deioces  have  been  told. 
'Tis  said  that  GheUn  weaving  first  began ; 
Which  hath  descended  since  from  man  to  man. 
The  mothers  taught  their  daughters,  sires  their  sons, 
Thus  in  a  line  successively  it  runs 
For  general  profit,  and  for  recreation, 
From  generation  unto  generation. 

"  Arphaxad  was  a  weaver  of  great  skill ; 
His  four  web  engines  make  us  wonder  still; 
For  they  do  art,  so  Uke  to  nature,  frame, 
As  if  it  were  her  sister  or  the  same. 
Flowers,  plants,  and  fishes,  beasts,  birds,  flies,  and  beee, 
Hills,  dales,  plains,  pastures,  skies,  seas,  rivers,  trees ; 
There's  nothing  near  at  hand,  or  farthest  sought, 
But  with  these  famous  air  looms  may  be  wrought. 
In  cloths  of  Babylon  I've  often  seen 
Men's  figured  counterfeits  so  like  have  been, 
That  if  the  party's  self  had  been  in  place. 
Yet  art  would  vie  with  nature  for  the  grace. 
Moreover,  poesies,  rare  anagrams, 
Signifique,  searching  sentences  from  names, 
True  history,  or  various  pleasant  fiction. 
In  sundry  colours,  mix'd  with  arts'  commision ; 
In  all  dimensions,  curves,  squares,  ovals,  rounds, 
Art's  life  included  mthin  nature's  bounds ; 
So  that  art  seemeth  merely  natural, 
In  forming  shapes  so  geometriced." 

The  art  of  weaving  was  unknown  in  Great  Britain  previous 
to  the  Roman  Invasion.  After  the  Romans  had  obtained  a  footing 
in  that  country,  they  established  a  woollen  manufactory  at  Win- 
chester, for  clothing  their  army  ;  and  they  also  taught  the  benighted 


INTRODUCTION. 


65 


natives  the  art  of  weaving,  and  the  culture  of  flax.  The  Saxons 
afterwards  introduced  several  kinds  of  fabrics  for  domestic  purposes, 
among  which  are  said  to  have  been  knotted  counterpanes  with  net- 
work borders^  for  bed-covers,  petticoats,  pantalets,  &c.  In  the  early- 
part  of  the  fourteenth  century  (1327)  Nicholas  Grattan,  Ned  O'Neal, 
Brien  Gallagher,  and  Jack  R.  Newbury  introduced  the  manufacture 
of  broad  cloth,  which  manufacture  was  afterwards  protected  and 
encouraged  by  king  Edward  3d,  and  this  fabric  has  ever  since  been 
a  staple  article  of  export. 

These  inventions  and  discoveries,  together  with  the  improvements 
in  calico  printing,  the  discharging  of  colours,  (particularly  of  Turkey 
red,  for  Bandannas)  the  application  of  steam,  as  a  moving  power, 
in  weaving  plain  cloth,  and  innumerable  other  mechanical  inven- 
tions, which  it  would  be  tedious  even  to  name  ;  these  have,  within 
the  last  fifty  years  raised  the  cotton  manufacture  to  a  state  of  per- 
fection, which  has  no  parallel  in  the  history  of  the  arts. 

It  will  be  remembered  by  the  reader,  that  Mr.  Kersivenus,  in  his 
letter  of  23d  April,  1843,  (given  at  page  34,)  promised  us  some  fur- 
ther information  relative  to  the  subjects  there  spoken  about :  and 
after  some  unavoidable  delay,  this  gentleman  has  at  length  written 
another  letter  to  us,  of  which  the  following  is  a  correct  translation. 
No  doubt  his  document  will  be  interesting  to  many  weavers  and 
manufacturers  in  this  country. 

Alexandria,  17th  Sept.  1843. 

Dear  Friend : 

Your  letters  of  9th  July  and  15th  August  came  to  hand,  and 
their  contents  I  have  just  been  considering  with  the  greatest  at- 
tention. 

I  am  happy  to  hear  in  the  first  place,  of  the  safe  arrival  at  the 
City  of  New  York,  of  the  letter  which  I  had  the  pleasure  of  writing 
you  on  the  23d  of  April  last.  I  regret  exceedingly  not  having  been 
able  to  give  you  more  correct  information,  on  the  subject  to  which 
you  most  particularly  refer  ;  but  this  delay  has  been  altogether  oc- 
casioned by  the  negligence  of  Messrs.  Lepsius  and  Taylor,  in  not 
answering  my  letters  to  them,  of  24th  April. 

For  the  last  fortnight  my  hfe  has  been  a  burthen  to  me,  as  I  have 
been  suffering  from  a  sore  disease,  which  quack  doctors  generally  call 
delirium  tremens.  I  subjected  myself  to  homeopathic  treatment, 
however,  about  ten  days  ago,  and  am  now  so  far  recovered  as  to  be 
able  to  keep  the  children  in  order,  although  I  cannot  yet  undertake 
any  professional  duties. 

9 


66  INTRODUCTION. 

On  examiuing  various  letters  and  oilier  documents,  received  by 
this  morning's  mail,  I  was  extremely  delighted  to  see  a  communica- 
tion in  the  handwriting  of  our  old  friend  Lepsius,  enclosing,  also, 
another  from  Air.  Taylor.  These  documents,  although  certainly 
not  so  satisfactory  as  I  could  wish,  contain,  nevertheless,  various 
observations  relative  to  Arphaxad's  inventions,  which  may.  to  some 
extent,  answer  your  enquiries  ;  and  I  shall  now  submit  to  you  the 
substance  of  what  they  state  as  briefly  as  possible. 

Figure  No.  5.  in  the  drawings,  puzzles  both  the  Doctor  and  Mr. 
T.,  and  they  frankly  confess,  that  they  neither  know  what  kind  of 
a  character  she  is,  nor  yet  the  object  for  which  she  is  represented  at 
aU.  Mr.  T..  however,  suggests  from  the  implements  which  she 
carries,  that  she  is  a  person  perfectly  skilled  in  the  arts  of  spinning 
and  figured  weaving.  Figure  IS'o.  8,  is  a  portrait  of  the  prince  of 
weavers,  no  less  than  E.  K.  Arphaxad  himself;  but  this,  I  think, 
you  might  have  seen  yourself,  without  any  explanation.  The 
fragments  of  machinery,  and  other  articles  scattered  over  the  draw- 
ing, according  to  Lepsius,  originally  constituted  part  of  the  incerior 
mechanism  of  the  engine  ;  but  have  been  thrown  into  their  present 
state  of  confusion  by  a  dreadful  explosion  of  the  principal  air  cis- 
tern, killing,  instantaneously,  two  beautiful  ladies,  who  were  mere 
spectators,  come  to  the  factor}*,  for  the  purpose  of  examining  some 
new  patterns  of  shawls,  lace,  and  quilting  stuflfs,  for  their  wedding 
dresses.  It  is  somewhat  singular  that  this  frightful  catastrophe 
should  have  happened  on  a  Sunday ;  which  circumstance  is  an- 
other proof  of  the  bad  effects  of  working  on  that  day. 

You  will  perceive  in  the  drawing,  the  wreck  of  man}*  valuable 
contrivances  used  by  weavers.  Among  those  may  be  traced  part 
of  Lemuel  P.  Arybas'  nipper  or  jaw  temple.  Arphaxad's  tappet 
wheel,  fork  and  grid  stop-thread  motion,  measuring  rollers  for  regu- 
lating the  giving  out  of  yarn  from  warp  beams  by  means  of  end- 
less screws,  dx.,  lace  and  embroidering  machinery  of  various  kinds, 
cams  and  cam-wheels,  with  a  variety  of  spinning  apparatus,  which, 
to  all  appearance,  judging  from  the  figures,  is  at  least  equal  to  the 
best  spinning  machinery  of  the  present  day. 

From  these  remains  it  would  seem  that  Arphaxad's  loom  was  ca- 
pable of  producing  various  textures  at  one  and  tlie  same  operation. 
Indeed,  Lepsius  informs  me  that  Arphaxad  constructed  a  machine 
for  Gengis-Khan.  adapted  to  weave  30  pieces  of  cloth  at  once,  these 
pieces  varying  in  width  from  2-5  to  7-4  inches,  and  forming  the  most 
beautiful  textures  and  patterns  imaginable  ;  surpassing  in  splendour 
of  appearance  even  the  most  gorgeous  tail  oi  the  peacock,  and  dis- 


INTRODUCTION.  67 

playing  a  greater  variety  of  colouring  than  that  proud  bird  can 
boast  of.  This  machine,  although  containing  so  many  webs,  and 
working  so  many  shuttles  (averaging  30  shuttles  to  each  of  the  30 
webs,  or  900  in  all)  appears  to  have  cost  only  1  shekel  of  silver  per 
diem  for  the  necessary  driving  power.  The  proprietor,  therefore, 
must  have  realized  a  handsome  profit  while  the  engine  was  in  suc- 
cessful operation,  in  as  much  as  it  turned  off  1200  yards  daily,  of 
perfect  goods,  with  the  assistance  of  a  mere  child  to  superintend  it. 
The  average  price  at  which  the  cloth  was  sold  per  yard,  taking  one 
web  with  another,  was  about  75^. ;  and  the  cost  of  the  raw  material 
was  not  over  30  per  cent  of  that  sum,  the  cloth  being  extremely 
light,  owing  to  the  astonishing  fineness  of  the  thread  used.  The 
original  cost  of  the  machine,  however,  formed  an  important  item,  as 
it  was  not  less  than  140,000/.  of  your  money.  Lepsius  is  unable 
to  say  whether  this  enterprise  turned  out  a  good  speculation  for 
Gengis-Khan,  or  not,  as  he  cannot  ascertain  how  long  the  loom 
was  in  operation  before  it  blew  up. 

From  these /ac^5  we  may  take  it  for  granted,  that  the  fragments 
shown  in  the  drawing  did  actually  form  part  of  the  mechanism  of 
the  engine  represented,  previous  to  the  explosion  of  the  air  cistern  ; 
the  spinning  machinery,  no  doubt,  being  employed  in  furnishing  the 
different  warps  and  wefts  as  required.  Whether  the  thread  used  was 
of  gold  or  silver,  neither  the  Doctor  or  Mr.  Taylor  is  able  to  say ;  but, 
in  my  opinion,  gold  was  the  material  used,  to  which  the  necessary 
endless  variety  of  shades  had  been  previously  given  by  some  highly 
ingenious  chemical  process.  Had  the  thread  not  been  of  gold,  the 
textures  could  not  have  been  so  expensive. 

The  specimen  of  cloth  in  possession  of  his  Highness,  and  of 
which  I  spoke  to  you  in  a  former  letter,  although  5,331  years  old, 
yet  it  is  beautiful  beyond  conception — as  fresh  and  perfect  as  if 
finish,ed  yesterday.  This  specimen  contains  130  shades  of  colour, 
and  is  of  pure  gold.  I  shall  forward  you  in  a  few  days  11|  inches 
of  it,  which  I  have  procured  from  his  Highness  at  an  expense  of  90 
shekels  of  gold.  The  pieces  of  glass  cloth  which  you  had  the 
kindness  to  send  me,  are  not  to  be  compared  to  it  in  richness  of 
colouring  and  design. 

Regarding  the  spinning  engine  of  Wallotty  Trot,  the  Doctor 
thinks  it  did  not  differ  materially  from  that  demolished  by  the  ex- 
plosion, part  of  which  is  shown  at  No.  9. :  but  whether  Trot  used 
rollers,  as  at  No.  10.,  or  flyers,  as  at  No.  11.,  neither  Lepsius  nor 
Taylor  can  decide. 

Since  writing  the  above,  my  son  has  found  another  paper,  among 


68  INTRODUCTION. 

those  brought  this  morning,  from  Doctor  Lepsius,  who  has  ehcited 
some  further  ideas  relative  to  the  figures  2,  3.  4,  6,  and  7.  He  says 
they  are  mechanical  or  automaton  musicians  which  were  stationed, 
generally,  at  the  entrance  of  the  manufactory,  for  the  purpose  of 
serenading  ladies  and  gentlemen  who  came  to  purchase  the  splendid 
productions  of  Arphaxad's  looms.  These  figures  serenaded  all  good 
customers,  also,  when  leaving  the  factory ;  but  in  no  case  would 
they  play  a  single  note  to  such  as  were  shabby  in  purchasing. 
Each  figure  was  possessed  of  the  necessary  mechanism,  in  its  inte- 
rior, according  to  its  office  in  the  band.  The  playing  of  a  tune, 
commonly  averaged  from  35  to  45  minutes  ;  and  there  were  140 
tunes,  in  all,  "  to  the  round."  Each  automaton  was  furnished  with 
a  suitable  key,  by  means  of  which  it  icoiind  up  itself  when  run 
down. 

In  regard  to  stopping  the  engine  on  the  breaking  or  failure  of  a 
weft  thread,  no  difficulty  could  have  been  experienced  ;  because  the 
fork  and  grid  stop  thread  motion,  (a  fragment  of  which  you  will 
perceive  in  the  drawing,)  w-ould  accomplish  that  object  eflectually. 
Besides,  there  are  evident  traces  of  other  valuable  contrivances  for 
the  same  purpose :  but  whether  these  w'ere  essential  to  the  per- 
fect working  of  this  extraordinary  loom,  or  not,  is  at  this  moment  a 
mystery  beyond  my  power  to  solve. 

His  Highness  is  delighted  with  the  working  of  your  power  looms ; 
he  has  lately  caused  them  to  be  set  up  in  his  turban  factory,  and 
they  are  now  in  successful  operation.     He  requests  me  to  convey 
to  you  the  expression  of  his  sincere  regard,  in  the  shape  of  a  beau- 
*  *  *  *    ,  and  shipped  this  day  on 

board  the  Royal  Tar.     I  herewith  enclose  the  invoice. 

I  have  just  learned  that  our  respected  friend,  Amasis  Osirtasen, 
is  no  more,  having  departed  this  hfe  yesterday  (Sunday)  while  in 
the  act  of        ***** 

*  *  »  *  *  *  I 

Hoping  the  above  information  will  prove  satisfactory,  I  remain, 
with  permission  from  his  Highness, 

Your  most  obedient  servant. 

ALEXIS  KERSIVENUS, 
Civil  Engineer,  Homeopathic  Physician,  &c. 


SECTION    FIRST. 


PLAIN  WEAVING. 


WINDING  OR  SPOOLING. 

The  common  custom  of  spinners  is,  to  reel  the  yarn  into  hanks, 
or  skeins  of  a  given  length,  and  in  this  state,  to  dehver  it  for  the 
purpose  of  being  made  into  cloth. 

This  process  does  not  come  within  the  compass  of  the  present 
section ;  although  the  arts  of  spinning  and  weaving,  which  form 
the  two  great  divisions  of  labour  in  manufacturing  cloth  from 
the  raw  material,  are  so  intimately  blended,  that  hardly  any 
thing  analogous  to  the  one  art,  is  entirely  foreign  to  the  other. 
At  present  it  will  be  sufficient  to  consider  yarn  in  the  hank 
state. 

The  first  process  in  Unen  and  cotton  yarn,  is  boihng  in  the  hank. 
The  fibres  of  the  former,  being  long  and  tenacious,  require  only  to 
be  freed  from  impurities  by  means  of  boiluig  water,  and  soap  or 
potash.  To  the  latter  a  certain  proportion  of  flour  is  added,  to  in- 
crease its  firmness.  When  these  operations  have  been  performed, 
and  the  yarn  has  been  thoroughly  dried,  it  is  wound  upon  bobbins, 
commonly  called  spools.  This  is  done,  generally  for  hand  looms, 
by  means  of  the  common  bobbin  wheel,  and  swifts  or  runners, 
which  are  so  well  known  that  we  think  it  unnecessary  to  give 
drawings  of  them. 

WARPING. 

The  warping  mill  forms  a  cucle,  or  rather  a  polygon  inscribed 
within  a  circle,  and  the  yarn  is  wound  around  it  in  the  form  of  a 
spiral  or  screw,  by  which  means  a  very  great  length  may  be  pro- 
duced in  a  small  compass.  Warping  mills,  for  hand  looms,  are 
constructed  of  different  heights  and  circumferences,  according  to  the 
particular  species  of  goods  for  which  they  are  designed,  or  the 


D.  H.  HILL  LIBRARY 
North  Carolina  Stato  College 


70 


THE    ART    OP    WEAVING. 


room  which  they  are  to  occupy.  A  plan  and  elevation  of  those 
used  in  the  manufacture  of  silk,  cotton,  and  other  goods  will  suffi- 
ciently illustrate  the  principle  of  their  construction,  and  these  will 
be  found  in  figs.  3,  4,  and  5. 

Figs.  3  and  5. 


Fig.  3  is  a  ground  plan  and  Fig.  4  a  profile  elevation,  and  the 
same  letters  refer  to  corresponding  parts  in  both  figures.  The  cir- 
cumference of  a  mill  is  generally  five  English  ells  of  45  inches 
each,  and  is  divided  into  20  equal  parts  of  11^  inches  or  ^  of  an  ell 
to  each.  The  mill  is  built  upon  three  horizontal  frames,  one  of 
which  is  represented  at  A  Fig.  3.  The  circular  piece  L  is  of  solid 
wood  with  a  mortise  B  in  the  centre,  having  a  square  axis  passing 
through  it,  in  each  end  of  which  axis  is  an  iron  pivot  or  journal. 
The  lower  pivot  works  in  a  socket  and  the  upper  in  a  round  hole 
or  bush,  the  axis  being  placed  perpendicular  to  the  horizon.  The 
mill  is  turned  about  by  a  trundle  F,  from  which  motion  is  commu- 
nicated to  it  by  a  crossed  band  H,  passing  around  its  circumference, 
as  near  to  the  floor  as  convenient.  The  arms  or  radii  (20  in  num- 
ber) are  dovetailed  into  grooves  in  the  centre  piece  L,  and  their  ex- 
tremities are  mortised  into  the  upright  standards  which  form  the 
circumference  of  the  mill,  and  which  beiQg  exactly  1]|-  inches 


PLAIN    WEAVING. 


71 


asunder,  from  centre  to  centre,  divide  that  circumference  into  20 
equal  parts.  The  arms  are  numbered  from  1  to  20,  and  appear 
very  plainly  in  Fig.  3  ;  but  the  standards  at  their  extremities  ap- 
pear only  as  sections. 

Fiff.  4. 


In  Fig.  4  nine  of  the  upright  standards  are  quite  visible,  and  are 
numbered  from  2  to  10.  Near  the  circumference  the  arms  are 
connected  and  kept  firm  by  round  pieces  of  wood,  as  represented 
in  Fig-.  3. 

E  is  the  heck,  as  it  is  usually  called.  It  consists  of  a  number 
(120,  or  more,)  of  steel  pins,  with  a  round  hole  or  eye  in  the  upper 
end  of  each,  through  which  a  thread  passes  in  the  process  of  warp- 
ing. The  pins  are  placed  alternately  in  two  frames,  distinct  from 
each  other,  and  either  of  them  may  be  raised  at  pleasure.  By 
these  means  what  is  called  the  lease  is  formed,  and  it  is  most  essen- 
tial in  every  stage  of  the  operation  of  weaving,  as  the  whole  regu- 
larity of  the  yarn  in  the  loom  depends  upon  it.  Fig.  5  is  a  front 
elevation  of  a  part  of  a  heck,  for  the  purpose  of  showing  more  dis- 
tinctly the  way  of  lifting  the  alternate  threads,  when  required. 
The  steel  pins  of  the  heck  ought  to  be  very  carefully  polished  for 
the  sake  of  smoothness,  and  should  be  tempered  hard,  to  preserve 
the  eyes  from  being  worn  by  the  friction  of  the  threads  passing 
through  them. 


72  THE    ART    OP    WEAVING. 

D  is  a  frame  of  wood,  on  the  upper  part  of  which  are  fixed  a 
convenient  number  of  pins,  in  a  perpendicular  direction,  and  at 
equal  distances.  Upon  each  of  these  is  a  small  pulley  of  hard 
wood,  which  runs  freely  round.  These  serve  to  guide  the  yarn 
upon  the  mill,  and  also  to  divide  it  into  portions  called  half  gangs 
or  bouts,  which  are  useful  in  the  subsequent  operation  of  beaming, 
as  will  be  hereafter  described.  On  the  end  of  the  frame  D  is  a 
square  box,  through  which  a  perpendicular  post  C  passes,  and 
upon  it  the  whole  frame  D  slides  up  or  down,  when  the  mill  is  set 
in  motion.  This  is  effected  by  means  of  a  cord  passing  over  the 
pulleys  NN,  Fig.  4,  and  fixed  to  the  end  of  the  axis  of  the  mill. 

When  the  mill  is  turned  one  way,  the  cord  winds  around  the 
axis  and  raises  the  frame  D ;  when  turned  the  contrary  way,  the 
cord  unwinds  and  the  frame  is  lowered.  Four  small  rollers  are 
generally  placed  in  the  inside  of  the  box  to  diminish  the  friction  of 
the  post  C.  G.  Fig.  3,  is  a  horizontal  section  of  the  frame  for  con- 
taining the  bobbins,  or  as  it  is  commonly  called  the  bajik. 

Two  cross  pieces  of  wood,  I  and  K,  pass  between  the  upright 
standards  which  form  the  circumference  of  the  mill ;  in  each  of  them 
are  too  smooth  round  pins,  on  which  the  leases  are  formed.  Near 
to  the  upper  lease  pins  I,  is  another  pin  M,  and  upon  this  the  warp 
is  turned.  The  cross  piece  I  is  fastened  to  the  mill,  but  that  at  K 
is  moveable. 

OPERATION  OF  WARPING. 

The  number  of  bobbins  which  are  to  form  the  warp  are  placed 
in  the  firame  or  bank  G,  so  that  the  threads  may  unmnd  from  the 
upper  part  of  them ;  the  threads  are  then  passed  successively,  through 
the  eyes  of  the  heck  E,  and  the  whole  being  knotted  together  are 
fixed  to  the  pin  M,  upon  the  mill,  (see  Fig.  3.)  The  mill  is  then 
turned  slowly,  until  the  top  lease  pins  at  I,  come  nearly  opposite 
the  heck.  The  warper  then,  lifting  half  of  the  frame  or  thread 
guide,  passes  the  forefinger  of  his  left  hand  through  the  space  formed 
"between  the  threads  which  are  raised  and  those  that  remain 
stationary ;  he  then  sinks  the  frame  which  had  been  lifted,  to  its 
former  place,  and  hfts  the  other.  (One  half  of  the  threads  in  the 
gang  or  bout  passes  through  each  of  these  guides.) 

Into  the  space  formed  by  this  he  inserts  his  thumb,  and  carefully 
places  the  yarn  upon  the  two  pins  at  I,  the  first  passing  through 
the  interval  kept  by  his  fingers,  and  the  second  through  that  kept 
by  his  thumb.     Every  alternate  thread  is  thus  crossed  and  the  lease 


PLAIN    WEAVING. 


73 


is  formed.  He  now  divides  his  yarn  into  portions,  as  nearly  as  pos- 
sible equal  to  each  other,  to  form  half  gangs.  These  are  kept 
separate  by  passing  along  different  rollers  on  the  frame  D,  (see 
Fig.  3,)  until  he  arrives  at  the  lowest  lease  pins  K.  Turning  the 
mill  gradually  and  regularly  round,  he  winds  the  yarn  about  it  in  a 
spiral,  formed  by  the  descent  of  the  frame  D,  until  he  has  completed 
a  number  of  revolutions  sufficient  to  produce  the  length  of  the  web, 
and  then  fixes  the  lower  pins  at  the  proper  place.  Upon  these  he 
turns  his  warp,  forming  another  lease,  by  passing  every  division,  or 
half  gang  of  his  yarn,  alternately,  over  and  under  each  pin.  This 
lease  differs  from  that  formed  upon  the  upper  pins  only  in  this  respect, 
that  instead  of  being  formed  by  the  crossing  of  the  individual  threads, 
it  is  produced  by  crossing  the  half  gangs,  and  is  used,  as  formerly 
stated,  in  order  to  preserve  regularity  in  the  operation  of  beaming. 
The  lower  lease  being  now  formed,  the  warper  turns  the  mill  in  a 
contrary  direction  until  he  arrives  again  at  the  top,  and  repeats  the 
former  process  till  he  has  collected  upon  the  mill  the  quantity  of 
warp  required  in  the  web.  As  soon  as  this  has  been  effected,  he 
secures  his  leases,  by  tying  round  one  half  of  the  yarn  upon  each 
pin,  cuts  away  his  threads,  and  drawing  the  warp  gradually 
off  the  mill,  links  it  into  a  succession  of  loops  called  a  chain,  forms 
it   into  a  bunch,  or  ball,  and  in  this  state  it  is  delivered  to  the 

weaver. 

In  this  consists  the  whole  operation  of  warping.  It  is  an  impor- 
tant part  of  the  duty  of  a  warper  to  be  very  careful  that  any  threads 
which  may  be  broken  in  the  process,  be  immediately  tied,  that  they 
may  not  be  crossed  over  the  others. 

We  shall  now  proceed  to  the  next  operation,  which  is  Beaming. 

BEAMING. 

When  the  weaver  has  received  his  warp,  his  first  care  is  to  wmd 
it  upon  the  beam  in  a  proper  manner. 

Having  ascertained  the  number  of  half  gangs,  and  the  breadth 
of  the  web,  he  passes  a  small  shaft  through  that  formed  by  the  first. 
This  gives  him  the  lease  for  beaming,  and  keeps  the  half  gangs 
distinct.  An  instrument  or  utensil  called  a  ravel  is  then  to  be  used. 
We  have  not  given  any  figure  of  this  because  it  differs  in  nothing 
from  a  reed,  excepting  that  the  intervals  are  much  wider,  and  that 
the  upper  part  may  be  taken  off,  for  the  purpose  of  putting  the  half 
gangs  in  their  respective  places. 

Ravels,  like  reeds,  are  of  different  dimensions,  and  one  proper  for 

10 


74      •  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

the  purpose  being  found,  every  half  gang  is  to  be  placed  in  an  in- 
terval between  two  of  the  pins. 

The  upper  part  or  cape^  is  then  put  on  and  secured,  and  the 
operation  of  winding  the  warp  upon  the  beam  commences. 

Two  persons  are  employed  to  hold  the  ravel  which  serves  to  guide 
the  warp,  and  to  spread  it  regularly  upon  the  beam  ;  one,  or  two  to 
hold  the  chain,  or  chains  of  the  wai-p,  (there  is  often  more  than 
one  chain  in  the  web,)  at  a  proper  degree  of  tension,  and  one,  or 
more  to  turn  the  beam. 

DRAWING  OR  ENTERING. 

Two  rods  are  now  inserted  into  the  lease  formed  by  the  upper 
pins  on  the  warping  mill,  and  the  ends  of  these  rods  are  tied  together, 
the  warp  being  spread  out  to  its  proper  breadth.  The  beam  is  then 
suspended,  by  cords  behind  the  headles,  sufficiently  elevated  to  be 
out  of  the  way  of  the  person  who  hands  in  the  threads  to  the 
weaver,  the  warp  hanging  down  perpendicularly.  The  Aveaver 
opens  every  headle  in  succession,  and  it  is  the  business  of  the  other 
person  to  select  the  threads  in  their  order,  and  dehver  them  to  be 
drawn  through  the  open  headle,  or  headles.  The  succession  in 
which  the  threads  are  to  be  delivered  is  easily  ascertained  by  the 
rods,  as  every  thread  crosses  that  next  to  it.  The  warp,  after  pas- 
sing through  the  headles,  is  next  drawn  through  the  reed  by  an  in- 
strument called  a  reed  hook  or  sley  hook,  two  threads  (for  plain 
cloth)  being  generally  taken  through  every  interval. 

These  operations  being  finished,  the  cords  or  7nounting.  which 
moves  the  headles,  are  applied,  the  reed  is  placed  in  the  lay,  and 
the  warp  is  divided  into  small  portions,  which  are  tied  to  a  shaft 
connected  by  cords  to  the  cloth  beam.  The  weaver  then  dresses  or 
sizes  a  portion  of  his  warp  and  commences  the  operation  of  weaving. 
But  before  entering  into  the  investigation  of  this  process,  it  may  be 
proper  to  devote  some  attention  to  the  construction  of  the  loom. 

The  most  essential  working  parts  of  this  machine  are  represented 
in  Figs.  6  and  7. 


PLAIN    WEAVING. 


75 


Fig.  6  is  a  ground  plan,  or  rather  a  horizontal  section  of  a  com- 
mon loom,  parts  of  which  are  cut  away,  for  the  purpose  of  showing 
in  their  proper  forms  other  parts  of  the  loom,  warp,  and  cloth,  as 
they  could  not  be  otherwise  represented. 

Fig:  7. 


76 


THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 


Fig.  7,  may  be  considered  either  as  a  profile  elevation,  or  as  a 
profile  section  of  the  same  loom. 

All  the  parts  in  Fig.  7,  are  represented  as  they  appear  to  a  person 
standing  at  one  side  of  the  loom,  and  many  parts,  concealed  or  cut 
away  in  Fig.  6,  are  seen  very  plainly  in  Fig.  7,  whilst  many  parts 
which  are  distinctly  seen  m  Fig.  6,  are,  of  necessity,  either  partially 
or  totally  hid  in  Fig.  7. 

Fig.  8. 


Fig.  8,  is  a  transverse  section  of  the  same  loom,  as  viewed  from 
the  front :  the  cloth  roll,  the  lay,  and  all  the  other  parts  in  front  of 


PLAIN   WEAVING.  77 

the  headles,  are  taken  away  that  the  mounting  contained  in  the 
figure  may  be  seen.  The  lay  and  reed,  which  are  left  out  of  Fig.  8, 
are  distinctly  represented  in  Fig.  9.  In  all  these  figures  the  same 
parts  of  the  loom  are  marked  by  the  same  letters,  and  thus  by 
comparing  the  figures,  every  part  is  shown  in  the  various  forms, 
in  which  it  would  appear  when  viewed  above,  in  front,  or  at  one 
side. 

It  has  been  deemed  best,  totally  to  omit  the  side  and  cross  frame 
work,  and  to  exhibit  only  the  working  or  moving  parts.  This 
has  been  done  for  two  reasons. 

First,  Because  the  construction  of  the  frames  of  looms  are  very 
different,  and  the  particular  form,  is  not  often  essential  to  the  opera- 
tion, but  may  be  varied  according  to  the  fancy  either  of  the  weaver 
or  loom  maker, 

The  dimensions  also  vary  according  to  the  nature  and  breadth  of 
the  work  for  which  the  loom  is  intended. 

The  strength  of  the  different  parts  must  depend  entirely  upon 
the  work  to  be  performed  ;  for  it  will  be  obvious,  that  the  quantity 
of  wood  necessary  to  give  sufficient  strength  to  the  posts  and  rails 
of  a  sail  cloth  or  a  sheeting  loom  would  prove  a  useless  encum- 
brance, and  add  an  unnecessary  weight  to  one  designed  for  weaving 
light  fabrics  of  silk  or  muslin. 

It  is  sufficient  therefore,  in  constructing  the  frame  work,  that  care 
should  be  taken  to  make  it  of  strength  equivalent  to  the  stress  of 
the  work  which  is  to  be  performed,  that  the  parts  should  be  ac- 
curately squared,  the  joints  tight  and  firm,  and  that  the  frame 
should  be  well  fitted  to  the  working  parts.  If  these  points  are  suffi- 
ciently attained  the  most  simple  and  least  expensive  plan  of  construc- 
tion must  in  this,  as  in  all  other  machinery,  prove  invariably  the 
best.  The  second  reason  for  omitting  the  frame  work  is,  that  it 
would  have  been  difficult  to  represent  the  working  parts  distinctly 
without  many  additional  drawings,  because,  in  most  instances, 
many  things  would  have  been  concealed  by  the  intervention  of  dif- 
ferent parts  of  the  frame,  which  will  prevent  unskillful  persons  from 
properly  understanding  it. 

The  following  are  the  principal  working  parts  of  the  common 
loom  :  A,  Fig.  6,  the  yarn  beam,  B  the  rods  which  keep  the  threads 
of  the  warp  in  their  respective  places.  The  rods  pass  through  the 
intervals  which  form  the  lease,  that  is  to  say,  a  thread  passes  over 
the  first  rod,  and  under  the  second  :  the  next  passes  under  the 
first  and  over  the  second,  and  so  on  alternately. 

By  this  contrivance  every  thread  is  kept  distinct  from  that  on 


78  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

either  side  of  it,  and  if  broken,  its  true  situation  in  the  warp  may 
be  easily  and  quickly  found.  This  is  of  such  importance  that  too 
much  care  cannot  be  taken  to  preserve  the  accuracy  of  the  lease. 
The  third  rod  divides  the  warp  into  what  is  usually  called  dent- 
fids  or  split/ids,  for  two  threads  pass  through  the  same  interval  be- 
twixt the  dents  of  the  reed  :  a  close  inspection  of  the  lines  which 
represent  the  threads  of  the  warp  in  Fig.  6,  will  serve  to  illustrate 
this,  for  the  lines  are  drawn  so  as  to  show  the  way  in  which  each 
thread  passes  between  the  rods.  The  third  rod  is  commonly,  al- 
though improperly,  called  the  lease  rod,  for  all  the  rods  are  lease  ' 
rods,  and  the  preservation  of  the  lease  is  the  chief  cause  of  using 
them.  C^,  the  headles  through  which  the  warp  passes,  and  which 
by  raismg  and  sinkmg  one  half  of  the  warp  alternately,  form  the 
spaces  or  sheds  to  receive  the  weft.  D '  the  reed  through  which  also 
the  warp  passes,  (two  threads  being  drawn  through  every  interval,) 
and  which,  moving  along  with  the  lay,  strikes  home  the  weft  to  form 
the  cloth,  H,  the  lay,  (see  Figs.  6  and  9.)  mentioned  above,  vibrating 
on  centres,  placed  upon  the  upper  rail  or  cape  of  the  loom.  1 1  are 
the  boxes  for  receivmg  the  fly  shuttle,  and  KK  the  drivers  for  giv- 
ing motion  to  it :  LL,  the  temples  for  stretching  the  cloth  to  a  proper 
breadth,  and  MM  is  the  cloth  beam  for  receiving  the  cloth  when 
woven. 

Below  the  headles,  and  attached  to  them  by  cords,  are  two  trea- 
dles NN,  (see  Fig.  7,)  which  are  moved  by  the  weaver's  feet  to  open 
the  sheds.  The  shuttle  is  driven  through  the  shed  by  a  motion 
communicated  by  the  weaver's  right  hand,  the  lay  being  moved 
backward  and  forward  by  his  left. 

Before  proceedmg  further,  it  may  be  proper  to  notice,  briefly,  the 
different  parts  of  the  loom  in  succession,  to  explain  the  nature  of 
their  construction,  and  their  apphcation  to  the  purposes  for  which 
they  are  intended. 

YARN  ROLL  OR  BEAM. 

In  constructing  this  part  of  the  apparatus  particular  care  should 
be  taken  to  select  wood,  perfectly  sound,  and  thoroughly  seasoned. 
Whilst  the  least  moisture  remains  in  the  wood  no  operation  performed 
upon  it  can  be  trusted.  But  it  is  absolutely  necessary  that  the  yam 
beam  of  a  loom  should  be,  as  nearly  as  possible,  both  perfectly 
straight  and  round.  In  proportion  to  any  deviation  from  these,  the 
loom  will  be  defective,  and  the  deficiency  will  prove  injurious  in 
proportion  to  the  fineness  of  the  cloth  to  be  woven.  It  is  therefore 
of  the  utmost  consequence  that  the  wood  should  be  dry,  and  the 


PLAIN    WEAVING.  79 

iron  axles  driven  into  it  before  tlie  beam  is  turned,  and  that  the 
turner  should  be  very  careful  in  the  execution  of  this  part  of  the 
work. 

Upon  this  depends,  in  a  great  measure,  the  uniform  tightness  of 
the  Avarp,  and,  of  course,  the  beauty  of  the  cloth.  It  is,  besides,  of 
the  first  consequence  to  the  operative  weaver,  because,  if  the  beam 
bends  by  twisting,  one  side  will  be  heavier  than  the  other,  and  op- 
pose greater  resistance  to  the  threads  of  the  warp,  which  may 
cause  many  of  them  to  be  broken.  This  greatly  retards  the  work  ; 
•for  every  operative  weaver  will  be  convinced,  that  he  may  throw 
many  picks  of  weft  sooner  than  he  can  tie  one  thread  of  warp. 

The  warp  is  kept  in  a  proper  degree  of  tightness  by  means  of  a 
cord  U,  (see  Fig.  7,)  rolled  two  or  three  times  round  one  end  of  the 
yarn  beam. 

One  end  of  this  cord  is  fixed  to  a  lever  V.  This  lever,  the  end 
of  which  only  can  be  seen  in  Fig.  7,  and  which  does  not  appear  at 
all  in  Fig.  6,  is  parallel  to  the  beam,  and  directly  under  the  back 
part  of  it,  so  that  the  cord  passing  from  the  lever  to  the  beam,  may 
be  in  a  perpendicular  direction.  To  the  other  end  of  the  cord,  after 
passing  round  the  beam,  is  fixed  a  weight  W.  A  heavier  weight 
X  is  then  hung  from  the  lever  V,  and  as  this  weight  is  moved 
nearer  to,  or  further  from  the  fulcrum  of  the  lever,  the  tension  of 
the  warp  will  be  increased  or  diminished.  This  apparatus  is 
called  a  pace. 

In  heavy  fabrics,  it  is  still  the  custom,  in  hand-loom  weaving,  to 
tighten  the  warp  by  means  of  a  stout  pin,  which  is  called  a  bore 
staff.  The  yarn  beam  of  looms  constructed  for  heavy  work,  seldom 
has  ii-on  axles,  but  is  merely  rounded  at  each  end ;  and  at  the 
right  hand  side  a  number  of  holes,  say  six,  are  bored,  and  into  one 
of  them,  one  end  of  the  bore  staff  is  inserted,  the  other  being 
drawn  upwards  by  a  cord,  until  the  warp  is  sufficiently  tight. 

RODS. 

As  mentioned  before,  the  principal  use  of  the  rods  is  to  preserve 
the  lease.  When  any  threads  of  the  warp  are  broken,  great  care 
ought  to  be  taken  to  have  them  returned  into  their  proper  places. 
When  this  is  neglected,  the  warp  gets  into  confusion,  and  great 
trouble,  and  loss  of  time  ensue.  The  rods  are  made  of  hard  wood, 
and  should  be  well  smoothed,  to  prevent  them  from  catch  mg,  or 
breaking  the  warp  :  the  two  front  ones  are  of  a  circular  form,  the 
third  or  lease  rod  is  flat,  and  broader  than  the  others,  which  is  con- 
venient in  the  process  of  dressing  the  warp,  as  will  be  afterwards 


80  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

described.  The  rods  are  kept  at  a  uniform  distance  from  the  hea- 
dles,*  either  by  t3dng  them  together,  or  by  a  small  cord  with  a 
hook  at  one  end,  which  lays  hold  of  the  front  rod,  and  a  weight  at 
the  other,  that  hangs  over  the  yarn  beam. 

HEADLES. 

To  weave  plain  cloth,  only  two  leaves  of  headles  are  reall)'  ne- 
cessary, but  in  fine  webs,  where  many  threads  are  contained  in  the 
warp,  the  number  of  headles  required  would  be  so  great,  that  they 
would  be  crowded  too  much  together,  wliich  would  cause  unneces-- 
sary  Iriction,  and  strain  the  warp.  For  this  reason  four  leaves  are 
now  universally  employed,  except  in  very  coarse  work  ;  the)"  are 
made  of  stout  smooth  twine,  composed  of  9  strands,  and  are  con- 
nected together  by  cords  above  and  below,  to  which  each  headle 
leaf  is  fastened.  They  are  then  stretched  on  two  thin  flat  shafts 
of  wood. 

The  upper  edges  of  these  four  shafts  are  represented  in  Fig.  6, 
at  C  ,  and  the  sections  or  ends  of  them  at  0%  Fig.  7,  where  the 
front  leaves  appear  raised,  and  the  back  ones  sunk  for  opening  the 
shed,  through  which  the  shuttle  passes. 

For  plain  work  clasped  headles  are  chiefly  used  ;  a  representation 
of  which,  upon  a  large  scale,  is  shown  in  Fig.  10, 

Pig.  10. 


where  the  headle  twine  is  represented  b)'  double  hnes,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  showing  how  the  upper  and  lower  parts  cross  each  other. 
The  cross  hne  shows  the  direction  in  which  every  thread  of  the 
warp  passes  through  the  headle.  For  many  kinds  of  work,  the 
headles  are  constructed  with  eyes,  one  of  these  is  shown  in  Fig.  11, 

*  The  Irish  linen  weavers  always  have  the  front  rod  (or  rod  No.  1.)  from 
3^  to  4  inches  from  the  back  headle;  and  in  plain  cotton  goods,  the  distance 
at  which  they  are  kept  separate  seldom  exceeds  5  inches.  The  grain  of  the 
cloth,  we  know  from  experience,  is  better,  when  the  rods  are  kept  about  4 
inches  from  the  back  headle,  than  at  a  greater  distance. 


PLAIN    WEAVINCi.  81 

which  will  also  explain,  by  inspection,  the  way  in  which  the  twine 
is  knotted  to  form  the  eye. 

Fig.  11. 


In  Fig.  8,  which  is  an  elevated  section,  as  seen  from  the  front, 
they  are  distinctly  seen,  and  the  construction  of  the  whole  is  ren- 
dered very  apparent.  On  the  upper  side  rails  of  the  loom  rests  the 
headle  bearer  S,  stretching  across  the  loom.  From  this  two  levers 
Z,  are  suspended  by  cords  ;  from  one  end  of  these  levers  are  hung 
the  jacks  F,  and  from  each  end  of  these  jacks  pass  the  cords  which 
connect  them  with  the  upper  headle  shafts.  The  cord  connecting  one 
end  of  each  jack  with  the  headles,  is  attached  to  the  first  and  second 
leaf,  and  that  connecting  the  other  end,  to  the  third  and  fourth  leaf. 
Under  the  headles  are  two  spring  stafls  Q,,  suspended  by  cords  from 
the  under  headle  shafts.  These  are  connected  with  the  two  marches 
R,  which  move  upon  joints,  and  the  marches  are  again  connected 
with  the  two  treadles,  from  which  the  whole  motion  is  derived. 
The  other  end  of  the  lever  Z  is  connected  by  a  small  cord  with  the 
under  headle  shafts,  and  this  end  rests  in  a  small  notch,  fixed  to 
the  side  frame  of  the  loom.  When  the  headles  are  to  be  pushed 
back,  the  levers  are  relieved  from  the  notches  ;  the  weaver  then 
presses  down  the  upper  shafts,  by  means  of  the  small  cords,  the 
under  shafts  are  at  the  same  time  raised,  and  thus  the  headles  are 
slackened  to  ease  the  warp.  When  headles  with  eyes  are  used, 
this  apparatus  is  unnecessary,  and  the  jacks  may  at  once  be  hung 
from  the  headle  bearer  S,  as  in  Fig.  7.  Another  way  of  easing  the 
headles  is  now  most  generally  practised  ;  the  lower  links,  or  doups, 
are  lifted  by  small  rods,  and  the  headles  are  pushed  back  by  mov- 
ing the  lay. 

In  drawing  the  warp  through  the  headles,  the  first  thread  is  taken 
through  the  fourth  or  back  leaf,  the  second  through  the  second,  the 
third  through  the  third,  and  the  fourth  through  the  front.  When 
it  becomes  necessary  in  the  after  process,  occasionally,  to  draw  out 
the  rods,  their  places  may  be  recovered  in  the  following  manner : 

11 


S2  THE    ART    OF    WEAYIXG. 

By  raising  the  third  and  fourth  leaves  and  sinking  the  first  and 
second,  the  place  of  the  second  rod  is  given  ;  and  by  reversing  this, 
we  find  that  of  the  first.  By  raising  the  first  and  third  leaves  and 
sinking  the  second  and  fourth,  we  obtain  the  place  of  the  lease  rod. 

LAY  AND  REED. 

Fig.  9  is  an  elevation  of  the  lay  and  reed,  taken  from  the  front, 
and  exhibits  very  plainly  those  parts  which  are  either  concealed,  or 
imperfectly  seen  in  the  plan  and  profile.  Figs.  6  and  7.  The  parts 
of  the  lay  are  as  follow  :  H  is  the  sole  or  shell  of  the  lay,  in  which 
there  is  a  groove  to  receive  the  lower  edge  of  the  reed  D*^  ;  O  is  the 
top  shell,  in  which  also  is  a  groove,  and  by  these  it  is  kept  in  its 
place  ;  BB  are  the  two  swords  or  supports  of  the  lay,  which  are 
suspended  from  the  rocking  tree  T,  by  means  of  cords  CC,  as  re- 
presented more  clearly  in  Figs.  7  and  9.  When  the  pins  at  DD 
are  turned  round,  they  twist  the  suspending  cords,  which  of  course, 
become  shorter.  By  these  means  either  end  of  the  lay  may  be 
elevated  or  depressed  at  pleasure,  to  bring  it  into  a  proper  Avorking 
position.  Instead  of  these  cords,  screws  are  sometimes  used,  which 
is  certainly  a  steadier,  though  a  more  expensive  plan.  The  boxes 
II  are  constructed  of  a  proper  size  to  receive  the  fly  shuttle,  which 
is  driven  from  either  by  pulhng  forward  the  driver  K,  sliding  freely 
on  the  polished  spindle  F  :  it  then  passes  along  the  race  G,  with 
great  velocity,  and  lodges  in  the  opposite  box. 

The  drivers  are  moved  by  the  cords  EE,  fastened  to  the  handle 
H",  which  the  weaver  moves  with  his  right  hand,  as  before  men- 
tioned. 

In  weaving  liglit  fabrics  of  cloth,  tlie  upper  rib  of  the  reed  is  not 
confined  in  the  shell  of  the  lay,  but  a  light  shaft  of  wood  with  a 
groove  is  used.  To  each  end  of  this  shaft  is  fixed,  at  right  angles, 
a  thin  flat  piece  of  wood,  which  springs  easily  backward  and  forward. 

The  extremities  of  these  pieces  are  nailed  to  the  back  of  the 
swords  of  the  lay,  and  a  cord  is  tied  round  both,  by  whicli  the  de- 
gree of  spring  may  be  regulated,  the  rib  of  the  reed  is  received  into 
this  groove,  and  the  shell  is  to  be  used  above  the  vibrating  reed, 
serving  merely  as  a  rest  for  the  weaver's  left  hand  to  work  the  lay. 

By  this  contrivance  the  reed  yields  when  the  weft  is  driven  up, 
and  diminishes  the  danger  of  making  the  cloth  too  thick.  These 
machines  are  called ^yers.  In  still  lighter  goods,  a  woollen  cord  is 
stretched  between  the  swords,  and  to  it  the  upper  rib  of  the  reed 
is  tied. 


PLAIN    WEAVING.  83 

The  regularity  of  the  cloth  depends  much  upon  the  evenness  of 
the  dents  of  the  reed,  and  if  this  is  neglected  the  warp  will  be  fre- 
quently broken,  and  the  texture  of  the  cloth  impaired. 

The  dents  ought  not  to  be  perfectly  flat,  but  thicker  in  the  mid- 
dle, and  tapering  to  either  edge.  This  not  only  diminishes  the  fric- 
tion on  the  warp,  but  will  allow  any  small  knot  or  lump  to  pass 
much  easier  without  breaking  the  thread. 

The  fineness,  or  as  it  is  called  among  weavers,  the  set  of  a  web, 
is  determined  by  the  number  of  dents  of  the  reed  in  a  given  length. 
The  reed  is  divided  into  hundreds,  and  these  again  into  five  parts, 
each  containing  twenty  dents.  A  reed  for  working  hollands  is  con- 
sidered to  be  40  inches  in  length,  for  linen  37  inches,  and  for  cam- 
bric 34  inches  ;  and  the  number  of  hundreds  contained  in  these 
respective  lengths  is  called  the  set.  It  is  probable  that  these  lengths 
owed  their  origin  to  the  breadths  of  v,-hich  it  was  customary  to 
weave  these  different  kinds  of  cloth. 

The  40  and  34  inch  reeds  are  now  very  little  used,  and  the  37 
inch,  or  linen  reed,  is  universally  adopted,  at  least  in  the  cotton 
manufacture.  The  cause  of  this  seems  to  be  founded  upon  con- 
sidering a  yard  of  36  inches  as  a  proper  standard,  and  as  most  kinds 
of  cloth  shrink  considerably  in  the  breadth,  the  additional  inch  is, 
no  doubt,  allowed  for  this.  But  the  shrinking  of  cloth  is  very  dif- 
ferent in  various  fabrics.  Cloth  of  a  stout,  thick  texture  requires  a 
much  greater  allowance  than  light  goods.  The  additional  quantity 
of  warp  is,  therefore,  allowed  by  the  manufacturer,  in  proportion  to 
the  quality  of  the  web,  and  this  is  regulated  by  observation  and  ex- 
perience. 

The  length  of  the  Scotch  yard  is  37  inches,  and  it  probably  bears 
this  proportion  to  the  English  yard  of  36  inches  for  a  similar  reason. 
In  Lancashire  and  the  adjoining  counties,  where  the  manufacture 
of  cotton  goods,  chiefly  thick  fabrics,  is  carried  to  a  very  great  ex- 
tent, a  mode  of  counting  their  reeds,  different  from  any  of  those 
above  mentioned,  is  in  use. 

Their  reeds  are  divided  into  portions  of  19  dents  each,  which 
they  call  beers,  and  the  number  of  these,  contained  in  24  inches  is 
called  the  number  of  the  reed. 

TEMPLES. 

The  temples,  by  which  the  cloth  is  kppt  extended,  during  the 
operation  of  weaving,  consist  of  two  pieces  of  hard  wood,  with 
small  sharp  points  in  their  ends,  which  la}'^  hold  of  the  edge,  or  sel- 
vage of  the  cloth  at  either  side. 


84  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

The  pieces  are  connected  by  a  cord,  passing  obliquely  through 
holes  or  notches  in  each.  By  this  cord  they  can  be  lengthened,  or 
shortened,  according  to  the  breadth  of  the  web.  They  are  kept 
flat  after  the  cloth  is  stretched,  by  a  small  bar,  turning  on  a  centre. 
Their  form  will  appear  very  plainly  at  L,  in  Fig.  6 ;  one  end  is 
seen  at  L,  Fig.  7. 

CLOTH  ROLL  OR  BEAM. 

Behind  the  temples  is  the  roller  over  which  the  cloth  passes,  as 
fast  as  woven,  (this  roller  should  be  well  seasoned,  and  turned 
very  true,)  and  is  then  wound  on  the  cloth  beam  MM.  When  the 
warp  has  been  wrought  up  as  near  to  the  headles  as  can  be  done 
conveniently,  the  weaver  shifts  forward  the  temples,  rolls  up  a  pro- 
per quantity  of  cloth,  which  unwinds  an  equal  length  of  warp,  then 
shifts  back  the  rods  and  headles,  until  the  latter  hang  perpendicu- 
lar, and  proceeds  with  his  weaving. 

This  is  called  drawing  a  hore  by  the  Scotch,  and  a  sink*  by 
Irish  linen  weavers. 

In  weaving  thick  and  bulky  fabrics  of  cloth  there  is  a  cross  beam 
of  wood  called  the  breast  beam  instead  of  the  small  roller. 

SHUTTLE  AND  aUILL. 

The  shuttle  is  made  of  well  seasoned  box  wood,  or  of  apple  tree, 
and  tipped  with  st^el  at  each  end  ;  it  runs  upon  two  small  wheels 
of  iron,  or  wood,  hung  on  centres  ;  the  weft  thread,  escaping  from 
the-  quill,  passes  through  a  small  eye  of  glass,  or  ivory,  inserted  in 
the  side  of  the  shuttle,  next  to  the  cloth.  Fig.  12  is  a  representa- 
tion of  both. 


In  the  woollen  and  cotton  manufactures,  the  use  of  the  fly  shuttle 
is  almost  universal ;  but  in  the  linen  and  silk  it  is  still  common  to 
pass  the  shuttle  through  the  warp  by  the  weaver's  hand.  The 
boxes,  drivers,  spindles,  and  other  apparatus  used  for  throwing  the 


*  So  called  from  the  weaver's  depressing  one  end  of  tlie  bore  staff)  in 
drawing  off  y^rn  from  the  warp  beam. 


PLAIN    WEAVING.  85 

fly  shuttle,  are  unnecessary  in  working  by  the  hand,  and  would, 
indeed,  be  encumbrances. 

OPERATION  OF  WEAVING. 

When  a  warp  has  been  properly  arranged  in  the  loom,  and  all 
the  machinery  requisite  for  weaving  it  into  cloth  has  been  added, 
the  business  of  the  operative  weaver  depends  more  upon  care  and 
attention,  than  upon  manual  dexterity.  Silk  and  woollen  warps, 
which  are  animal  substances,  require  little  preparation  after  being 
put  into  the  loom.  In  these  it  is  only  necessary  for  the  weaver, 
occasionally,  to  clear  his  warp  behind  the  rods,  and  to  pick  off,  or 
pare  away,  any  knots  or  lumps  upon  the  yarn,  which  might  pre- 
sent obstructions  in  passing  through  the  headles  or  reed. 

The  clearing  of  the  warp  is  generally  done  with  a  comb,  which 
is  drawn  gently  through  it,  the  teeth  being  kept  in  an  oblique  di- 
rection, in  order  to  avoid  breaking  the  threads,  when  any  obstruc- 
tion presents  itself. 

For  the  operation  of  cleaning  the  warp,  a  pair  of  small  shears  is 
used.  This  operation  is  equally  necessary  in  warps  spun  from  the 
vegetable  substances,  ^aar  and  cotton. 

But  they  require  besides,  a  further  preparation  to  fit  them  for  the 
purpose  of  weaving  :  this  is  called 

SIZING. 

This  operation  is  justly  esteemed  of  the  first  importance  in  the  art 
of  weaving  warps  spun  from  flax  or  cotton,  and  even  in  fine  wool- 
len fabrics  ;  for  it  is  impossible  to  produce  work  of  a  good  quality 
unless  care  be  taken  in  sizing  the  warp. 

The  use  of  this  process  is  to  give  to  yarn  sufficient  strength  or 
tenacity,  to  enable  it  to  bear  the  operation  of  weaving.  It  also,  by 
laying  smoothly  all  the  ends  of  the  fibres  which  compose  the  raw 
material,  from  which  the  yarn  is  spun,  tends  both  to  diminish  the 
friction  during  the  process,  and  to  render  the  fabric  smooth  and 
glossy.  The  substance  in  common  use  for  sizing,  is  simply  a  mu- 
cilage of  vegetable  matter  l)oiled  in  water.  Wheat  flour,  and  some- 
times potatoes,  are  the  substances  commonly  employed  for  cotton 
and  linen.  These  answer  sufficiently  well,  in  giving  to  the  yarn 
both  the  smoothness  and  tenacity  reqiiired  ;  but  the  great  objection 
to  them  is,  that  they  are  too  easily  and  rapidly  affected  by  the  ope- 
ration of  the  atmosphere.  When  dressed  yarn  is  allowed  to  stand 
exposed  to  the  air  for  an}'  considerable  time,  before  being  woven 


86  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

into  cloth,  it  always  becomes  hard,  brittle,  and  apparently  inflexible. 
It  is  then  tedious  and  troublesome  to  weave,  and  the  texture  of  the 
cloth  is  rough,  wiry,  and  uneven.  This  eflfect  is  chiefly  the  case  in 
dry  weather,  when  the  weavers  of  fine  cloth  find  it  indispensibly 
necessary  to  have  their  yarn  wrought  up  as  speedily  as  possible, 
after  being  dressed. 

To  counteract  this  inconvenience,  herring,  or  beef  brine,  and  other 
saline  substances,  which  have  a  tendency  to  attract  moisture,  are 
sometimes  mixed  in  small  quantities  with  the  sizing  :  but  this  has 
not  proved  completely  successful,  probably  because  the  proportions 
have  not  been  properly  attended  to,  and  because  a  superabundance 
of  moisture  is  equally  prejudicial  with  a  deficiency.  Indeed,  the 
variation  of  the  moisture  in  the  air  is  so  great  and  so  frequent 
that  it  appears  difficult,  if  not  impossible,  to  fix  any  general,  not  to 
say  universal  rule,  for  the  quantity  to  be  mixed. 

It  Avill  appear  singular  to  weavers  in  this  country,  that  in  India,  the 
process  of  weaving  even  their  finest  muslins,  is  conducted  in  the  open 
air,  and  exposed  to  all  the  heat  of  the  climate,  which  is  intense. 

^^e  know  well  that  by  the  common  mode  such  would  be  imprac- 
ticable mth  fine  work  in  this  country,  even  in  an  ordinary  summer 
day.  Weavers  are  obliged  to  work  in  damp  shops,  to  prevent  the 
size  of  the  web  from  drying  and  hardening.  It  does  not  appear  that 
this  subject,  which  is  of  much  importance,  has,  till  lately,  attracted 
the  attention  of  scientific  men :  nor  has  it  been  treated  in  an  accu- 
rate or  philosophical  manner.  We  have,  very  recently,  been  for- 
tunate enough  to  procure  some  account  of  the  substances  which 
the  Indian  weavers  employ  for  sizing  their  wai-ps,  and  we  gladly 
embrace  this  opportunity  of  making  it  publicly  known,  as  we  hope 
the  information  will  prove  an  important  benefit  to  the  manufac- 
turers of  this  country. 

M.  Dubue  has  lately  read  a  memoir  before  the  '  Academy  of 
^Sciences  of  Rouen,^  on  the  subject  of  '  Pastes,  ^^c.,'  in  which  he 
shews,  that  the  Indians  use  a  very  minute  addition  of  miiriate  of 
lime*  to  render  them  retentive,  or  absorbent  of  moisture.  "Webs," 
says  he,  '•  sized  with  such  paste  as  is  generally  used  in  this  country, 
(France,)  may  be  woven  in  the  itpper  and  drier  chambers  of  a 
house,  as  well  as  in  the  lower  and  ill  aired. 

Mruiate  of  lime  may  be  obtained  at  a  very  trifling  expense  from 
those  apothecaries,  or  others,  who  prepare  water  of  ammonia. 


*  Monsieur  Dubue  should  have  likewise  informed  us  where  the  Indians 
procured  their  muriate  of  lime. 


PLAIN    WEAVING.  87 

The  waste  whitening  steep  of  the  bleacher  is  merely  a  solution 
of  muriate  of  lime." 

The  Indians  also,  according  to  Forbes,  use  a  kind  of  size  which 
they  make  from  a  root  called  kandri. 

In  the  sizing  of  woollen  warps,  glue  is  most  commonly  used. 
When  the  warp  previously  sized  has  been  wrought  up,  as  far  as 
can  be  conveniently  done,  the  weaver  is  obliged  to  suspend  the 
operation  of  weaving,  and  to  prepare  a  fresh  quantity  of  warp.  It 
is  necessary  to  stop  when  the  sized  warp  has  approached  within 
two  or  three  inches  of  the  back  leaf  of  the  beadles,  that  room  may 
be  allowed  to  join  the  old  sizing  to  the  new.  The  first  operation  is 
to  clear  the  warp  with  the  comb,  from  the  lease  rod  to  the  )^arn 
beam,  and  the  proof  that  this  operation  has  been  properly  executed 
is,  by  bringing  the  rods,  successively,  from  their  working  situation  to 
the  beam.  When  this  has  been  done,  the  two  rods  nearest  to  the 
headles,  are  drawn  out  of  the  warp,  and  the  lease  rod  only  remains. 

The  next  duty  of  the  weaver  is  to  examine  the  yarn  about  to  be 
sized,  and  carefully  to  take  away  every  knot,  lump,  or  other  ob- 
struction, which  might  impede  his  progress,  or  injure  the  cloth. 
This  being  performed,  he  proceeds  to  apply  the  substance  used  for 
sizing,  which  should  be  rubbed  on  gently,  but  completely,  into  the 
whole  warp,  by  means  of  two  brushes,  used  in  succession,  one  of 
which  he  holds  in  each  hand.  He  then  raises  the  lease  rod  on  one 
edge  to  divide  the  warp,  and  sets  the  air  in  motion  by  means  of  a 
large /a«,  for  the  purpose  of  drying  the  warp  which  has  been  sized. 
It  is  proper  in  this  stage  of  the  operation,  to  draw  one  of  the  brushes 
lightly  over  the  warp  at  intervals,  in  order  to  prevent  any  obstruc- 
tion which  might  arise  by  the  threads  when  agitated  by  the  fan, 
cohering,  or  sticking  to  each  other,  whilst  in  a  wet  state.  When 
the  warp  is  sufl&ciently  dried,  a  very  small  quantity  of  grease  (tallow) 
is  rubbed  over  it,  with  another  brush  kept  for  the  purpose,  the  lease 
rod  is  again  placed  upon  its  flat  side  and  cautiously  shifted  forward 
to  the  headles.  The  other  rods  are  then  put  again  into  their  respec- 
tive sheds,  and  the  process  is  finished. 

WEAVING. 

The  operation  of  sizing  the  warp  being  over,  the  weaver  again 
resumes  that  of  forming  the  cloth.  The  operations  required  are 
only  three  :  and  these  are  very  simple  : 

1st,  Opening  the  sheds  in  the  warp,  alternately,  by  pressing 
down  the  treadles  with  his  feet. 


88  THE    ART    OP    WEAVING. 

2d.  Driving  the  shuttle  through  each  shed  when  opened.  Tliis 
is  performed  by  the  right  l^and,  when  the  fly  shuttle  is  used,  and  by 
the  right  and  left  hand  alternately,  in  the  common  hand  loom. 

3d.  Pulling  forward  the  lay  to  strike  up  the  weft,  and  again  push- 
ing it  back  nearly  to  the  headles.  This  is  done  by  the  left  hand  (as 
before  stated,)  with  the  fly,  and  by  each  hand  successively  in  the 
old  way.  In  describing  operations  so  simple  and  uniform  it  is 
neither  easy  nor  necessary,  to  go  much  into  detail,  and  we  vrish 
above  all  to  avoid  repetition.  It  may  be  useful,  however,  in  iiiis 
place,  to  notice  the  mistakes  into  which  inexperienced  weavers  are 
apt  to  fall,  and  the  defects  and  inconveniencies  which  these  oc- 
casion. 

TREADING. 

In  the  treading  of  a  web  most  beginners  are  apt  to  apply  the 
weight  or  force  of  the  foot  much  too  suddenly.  The  bad  conse- 
quences attending  this  mistake  are  particularly  felt  in  weaving  fine 
or  weak  yarn.  In  weaving,  as  in  every  other  branch  of  mechanics, 
the  resistance,  or  reaction,  is  always  nearly  as  great  as  the  movmg 
power  or  force  which  it  is  necessary  to  apply.  From  this  it  follows, 
that  the  body  of  the  yarn  must  sustain  a  stress,  nearly  equal  to 
the  force  with  which  the  weaver's  foot  is  applied  to  the  treadle. 

Besides  this,  every  individual  thread  is  subjected  to  all  the 
friction  occasioned  by  the  headles  and  dents  of  the  reed,  between 
which  the  threads  pass,  and  with  which  they  are  generally  in  con- 
tact in  rising  and  sinking. 

But  the  art  of  spinning  has  not  been,  as  yet,  and  probably  never 
can  be,  brought  to  such  a  degree  of  perfection,  as  to  make  every 
thread  capable  of  bearing  its  proportion  of  the  stress  equally.  It  is 
ahke  confirmed  both  l)y  mathematical  demonstration,  and  by  prac- 
tical experience,  that  when  any  body  is  to  be  moved  ^\^th  increased 
velocity,  it  is  necessar}^  to  exert  greater  power  to  move  it :  and  as 
the  resistance  increases  in  proportion  to  the  power,  this  sudden  ap- 
plication of  the  pressure  of  the  foot  to  the  trealles,  mu,-t  cause  a 
proportional  increase  of  the  stress  upon  the  warp,  and  also  of  the 
friction. 

Now  as  it  is  ahiiost  impossible  to  make  every  thread  equally 
strong,  and  equally  tight,  those  which  are  the  weakest,  or  the 
tightest,  must  bear  much  more  than  their  equal  proportion  of  the  stress. 
This  causes  them  frequently  to  break,  even  with  the  greatest  atten- 
tion, and  uiore  thne  is  lost  in  tying  and  replacing  them,  than  would 


PLAIN    WEAVING. 


89 


have  been  sufficient  for  weaving  a  considerable  length  of  cloth. 
But  if  the  weaver,  from  inattention,  should  continue  the  operation, 
after  one,  or  more  threads  are  broken,  the  consequence  would  be 
still  worse.  When  a  thread  has  been  broken  it  no  longer  retains  its 
parallel  situation  to  the  rest,  but  crossing  over,  or  between  those 
nearest  to  it,  either  breaks  them  also,  or  interrupts  the  passage  of 
the  shuttle  ;  frequently  it  does  both.  The  same  reasons  will  suf- 
ficiently prove  the  error  of  another  opinion,  too  common  among 
conceited  or  ignorant  weavers,  especially  the  younger  part  of  them. 
This  is,  that  a  greater  quantity  of  cloth  will  be  produced,  in  pro- 
portion as  every  motion  is  performed  with  increased  rapidity.  It  is 
unquestionably  true,  that  time  will  be  lost  by  conducting  the  opera- 
tions too  slowly :  but  it  is  equally  certain,  that  there  is  a  rate  of 
velocity,  beyond  which  it  is  improper  to  accelerate  the  motions  of  a 
loom.  What  the  precise  rate  of  this  velocity  in  hand  loom  weav- 
ing should  be,  has  not,  as  we  believe,  been  correctly  ascertained. 
Indeed,  it  must  vary  considerably,  according  to  the  breadth  of  the 
web,  the  skill  of  the  workman,  the  nature  of  the  fabric,  and  the 
strength  of  the  materials. 

Instead,  therefore,  of  giving  precise  rules  of  motion,  we  shall  here 
insert  a  few  calculations  of  the  quantities  of  work  which  may  be 
produced  by  uniform  and  incessant  motion,  at  rates  usually  reck- 
oned slow. 

In  a  4-4  cotton  shawl,  let  the  warp  be  1000,  and  the  weft  1200, 
it  will  follow,  that  the  shuttle  must  be  driven  2400  times  across  the 
web  to  produce  one  square  yard  of  cloth.  Now,  if  this  is  done  60 
times  per  minute,  the  whole  will  be  completed  in  40  minutes,  sup- 
posing no  time  to  be  lost.  But  as  this  is  scarcely  possible,  allow 
one  fifth  of  the  time  to  be  occupied  in  tying  threads,  changing 
quills,  and  other  necessary  operations,  and  still  the  yard  of  cloth 
will  be  completed  in  50  minutes. 

Again,  in  a  1200  6-4  web,  [eveyi  loefted,)  let  the  time  of  weaving 
a  yard  in  length,  be  computed  at  the  rate  of  40  picks  per  minute  ; 
this,  with  the  former  allowance  of  one  fifth  part  of  the  time  for 
stopping,  will  be  done  in  one  hour  aiid  15  minutes.  Yet  every 
experienced  weaver  will  be  satisfied  that  looms,  regularly  and  con- 
stantly kept  going  at  the  above  rates,  will  produce  more  cloth  than 
is  usually  effected,  even  by  the  most  rapid  motions. 

No  allowance  is  made  here  for  the  time  employed  in  sizing,  be- 
cause this  is  supposed  to  be  the  same  whether  the  weaving  is  per- 
formed quickly  or  slowly. 

These  illustrations,  w^hich  are  confirmed  by  the  practical  obser- 

12 


90  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

vation  of  every  experienced  weaver,  will  be  sufficient  for  the  present. 
The  subject  will  be  more  fully  discussed,  when  we  come  to  investi- 
gate the  methods  of  weaving  by  power. 

We  shall  then  treat  of  sizing  whole  webs  by  the  aid  of  machinery, 
and  of  the  best  rates  of  speed  adapted  for  weaving  the  various  kinds 
of  goods  to  which  power  can  be  applied. 

CROSSING  THE  SHUTTLE. 

This,  like  the  former  motion,  should  be  performed  with  a  regular 
and  uniform  velocity. 

In  every  kind  of  weaving,  and  especially  in  thin  wiry  fabrics, 
much  of  the  beauty  of  the  cloth  depends  upon  the  weft  being  well 
stretched.  But  if  the  motion  of  the  shuttle  be  too  rapid,  it  is  apt  to 
recoil,  and  thus  to  slacken  the  thread.  It  has  also  a  greater  ten- 
dency either  to  break  the  weft  altogether,  or  to  unwind  it  from  the 
quill  in  doubles^  which,  if  not  picked  out,  destroy  the  regularity  of 
the  fabric.  The  weft  of  muslins  and  thin  cotton  goods,  is  generally 
woven  into  the  cloth  in  a  wet  state. 

This  tends  to  lay  the  ends  of  the  fibres  of  the  cotton  smooth  and 
parallel,  and  its  effect  is  similar  to  that  of  sizing  the  warp. 

The  person  who  winds  the  weft  upon  the  quill  or  bobbin  must  be 
very  careful  that  it  be  well  built,  so  as  to  unwmd  freely. 

The  best  shape  for  those  used  in  the  fly  shuttle,  is  that  of  a  cone* 
and  the  thread  should  traverse  freely,  in  the  form  of  a  spual  or  screw, 
during  the  operation  of  winding. 

The  same  wheel  used  for  winding  the  warp  upon  bobbins,  is  also 
fit  for  winding  the  weft.  It  only  requires  a  spindle  of  a  little  dif- 
ferent shape.  The  wheel  is  so  constructed,  that  the  spindles  may 
be  easily  shifted,  to  adapt  it  for  either  purpose. 

STRIKING  UP  THE  WEFT. 

That  the  cloth  may  be  uniform  in  thickness  it  is  necessary,  that 
the  lay  should  be  brought  forward  with  the  same  force  every  time. 
In  the  common  operation  of  weaving,  this  regularity  must  be  ac- 
quired by  practice. 

*  Messrs.  Farquhar  and  Gunn  of  Glasgow,  Scotland,  make  the  best  fly- 
shuttle  bobbin  winding  machines  in  Europe,  and  particularly  for  power  looms, 
where  striped  or  checked  goods  are  woven.  These  machines  contain  from 
12  to  100  bobbins  each,  which  they  build  in  the  form  of  a  cone.  We  would 
advise  manufacturers  of  such  goods  to  procure  sample  machines  from  these 
gentlemen. 


PLAIN   WEAVING.  91 

It  is,  however,  of  consequence  to  the  weaver,  to  mount  his  loom 
in  such  a  manner,  that  the  range  of  his  lay  may  be  in  proportion 
to  the  thickness  of  his  cloth.  As  the  lay  swings  backward  and 
forward,  upon  centres  placed  above,  its  motion  is  similar  to  that  of 
a  pendulum  ;  and  the  greater  the  arc  or  range  through  which  it 
passes,  the  greater  will  be  its  effect  in  pressing  up  the  weft.  For 
this  reason,  in  weaving  coarse  and  heavy  goods,  the  headles  should 
be  hung  at  a  greater  distance  from  the  point  where  the  weft  is 
struck  up,  than  would  be  proper  in  light  work.  The  point,  or 
rather  line,  where  the  last  thread  has  been  struck  up,  is  called  by 
weavers  the/eZ/. 

The  pivots  upon  which  the  lay  vibrates  ought,  in  general,  to  be 
exactly  at  equal  distances  from  a  line  drawn  perpendicular  to  the 
fell,  and  one  drawn  perpendicular  to  the  headles,  and  between  these 
two  hues.  But  as  the  fell  is  constantly  varying  in  its  situation,  (in 
hand  loom  weaving)  during  the  operation,  it  will  be  proper  to  take 
the  medium.  This  is  the  place  where  the  fell  will  be  when  a  hore 
(one  pull  of  the  warp)  is  half  wrought  up. 

From  this  the  following  conclusion  may  also  be  drawn  : 

The  hores  ought  always  to  be  short  in  weaving  liglit  goods  ;  for, 
the  less  the  extremes  vary  from  the  medium,  the  more  regular  will 
be  the  arc,  or  swing  of  the  lay. 

The  result  of  what  has  been  stated  above  is,  that  in  each  of  the 
three  operations  of  weaving,  the  motions  should  be  constant  and 
uniform,  and,  that  they  should  follow  each  other  in  regular  succes- 
sion. But  some  observations  will  be  necessary  to  adapt  these  to  dif- 
ferent species  of  cloth. 

The  beauty  or  excellence  of  some  cloths  consists  in  the  closeness 
of  their  texture,  that  of  others  in  the  openness  and  regularity  of  the 
intervals  between  the  threads.  When  the  latter  of  these  is  required, 
the  weaver  must  vary  his  process  from  that  which  would  be  propei 
in  the  former. 

The  extreme  tightness  of  the  weft  is  a  principal  excellence  in 
open  goods,  and  is,  to  a  certain  degree,  necessary  in  the  others  ;  but 
by  no  means  to  the  same  extent ;  two  alterations  are,  therefore, 
necessary  in  the  formation  of  such  fabrics.  The  first  is  in  the 
mounting  of  the  loom,  the  second,  in  the  operation. 

By  referring  to  Fig.  7  it  will  appear,  that  the  threads  of  the  warp 
pass  from  the  yarn  beam  to  the  cloth  roller  upon  a  level,  or  hori- 
zontal straight  line,  consequently,  the  half  of  the  warp  which  rises 
and  the  half  which  sinks,  will  deviate  equally  from  a  straight  hne, 
and  be  equally  stretched.     When  this  is  the  case  the  threads  of 


92  THE    ART    OF    WEAVIXG. 

■warp  which  pass  through  the  same  mterval  in  the  reed,  will  appear 
close  together  in  the  cloth  with  a  vacancy  between  them,  and  those 
next  to  them  ;  which  vacancy  is  can^^ed  by  the  intervention  of  the 
dents  in  the  reed.  But  if  the  yarn  beam  is  raised  considerably 
above  the  level  of  the  headles.  the  warp  when  at  rest,  will  no 
longer  be  in  a  straight  hne  ;  and  when  the  shed  is  opened,  that 
half  of  the  warp  which  descends,  will  be  drawn  considerably  tighter 
than  the  half  which  rises.  Thus  each  half  will  be  slackened  alter- 
nately, and  the  consequence  of  this  is,  that  the  warp  spreads  in 
the  cloth,  and  the  intervals  caused  hy  the  dent  of  the  reed  are  no 
longer  discernahle. 

The  former  of  these  ways  of  placmg  the  loom  is  practised  in  thin 
work;  the  latter  in  thick. 

When  the  weft  has  been  thrown  across  the  warp,  if  the  fabric 
is  thin,  the  lay  is  brought  up  rather  before  the  shed  is  closed,  in 
order  that  the  weft  may  be  struck  up  as  tight  or  as  stretched  as  possi- 
ble ;  but  in  weaving  thick  goods,  the  shed  is  closed  before  the  stroke 
of  the  lay  is  given. 

Li  consequence  of  this,  the  threads  of  the  warp,  to  a  certain 
desrree.  slacken  the  weft,  and  give  a  close  appearance  to  the  cloth. 
In   weavinsT   thick  cotton  goods,  the  weft  is  inserted  in  a  wet 
state,  when  the  fabric  is  wanted  to  appear  very  close. 

It  may  now  be  proper  to  notice  the  defects  wliich  most  commonly 
occur  in  the  weaving  of  cloth,  and  to  explain  the  causes  from  which 
tliey  arise. 

When  from  any  cause,  the  weft  is  not  regularly  intei-woven  with 
the  warp,  a  deficiency  must  happen  in  the  cloth,  which  is  called  by 
weavers  a  scohb  or  blotch. 

This  may  proceed  from  several  causes,  the  most  frequent  is  some 
obstruction  in  the  warp,  which  prevents  any  portion  of  it  from 
rising  or  sinking  regularly  when  the  shed  is  formed  ;  of  course,  the 
shuttle,  instead  of  passing  fairly  between  the  threads  of  the  warp, 
passes  either  over  or  uilder  the  portion  which  is  obstructed,  and  the 
weft  at  that  place  is  not  at  all  interwoven  \\'ith  the  wai-p. 

A  knot  or  lump  upon  the  warp,  if  not  picked  off,  will  often  ob- 
stiTict  two  cr  three  threads,  and  form  a  small  scolib.  When  the 
weaver,  from  inattention,  continues  to  weave  after  a  thread  of  warp 
has  been  broken,  it  very  frequently  crosses  between  a  number  of 
others  nearest  to  it.  and  by  obstructing  the  shed  in  that  place,  will 
cause  a  largfe  scobb.  Scobbs  are  also  sometimes  produced  by  the 
lay  being  too  low  or  too  high,  but  this  is  more  frequent  in  weaving 


PLAIN    WEAVING.  93 

with  the  hand  shuttle  than  with  the  fly.     In  this  case  the  scobbs 
are  always  near  the  list  or  selvage  of  the  cloth. 

A  second  fault  in  cloth  is  known  among  weavers  by  the  name 
of  a  jisp  or  shire.  This  is  most  frequent  in  light  fabrics,  and  is 
occasioned  by  any  particular  thread  of  Aveft  not  being  struck 
up  so  close  as  the  rest.  Jisps  are  very  frequently  occasioned  by  de- 
fects either  in  the  construction  or  mounting  of  the  loom.  If  either 
the  yarn  beam  or  cloth  beam  be  not  turned  very  true,  jisping  will 
be  unavoidable,  or  if  either  the  headles  or  the  lay  be  not  hung  paral- 
lel to  the  beams,  the  same  defect  will  ensue.  If  the  loom  is  cor- 
recti]/  made  and  mounted,  the  faidt  must  he  with  the  weaver , 
and  this  is  only  to  be  surmounted  by  attention  and  practice. 

The  other  faults  in  cloth  generally  proceed  from  inattention  in 
the  management  of  the  warp  or  weft.  If  threads  are  inaccurately 
drawn  through  either  the  headles  or  the  reed,  the  defect  will  be  ap- 
parent in  the  cloth. 

There  is  nothing  that  adds  more  to  the  beauty  of  cloth  of  every 
description,  and  about  which  good  weavers  are  more  solicitous,  than 
a  tight  imiform  selvage.  In  order  to  produce  this,  the  warp  must 
be  sized  even  with  greater  care  than  what  is  necessary  in  the  middle 
of  the  web.  The  tightness  of  the  weft,  also,  contributes  materially 
to  the  beauty  of  the  selvage.  It  is  sometimes  customary  to  warp  a 
few  dentfuls  at  each  selvage  with  coarser  yarn  than  the  body  of  the 
web.  In  many  kinds  of  cloth,  however,  the  common  practice  is 
to  draw  the  threads  which  form  the  selvage  double.  That  is,  to 
draw  two  threads  through  each  headle. 

The  threads  which  form  the  warp  of  the  selvage  being  coarser 
than  the  rest,  and  also  being  drawn  more  towards  the  middle  of  the 
web  by  the  weft,  the  intervals  of  the  reed  through  which  they  pass, 
are  apt  to  be  worn  much  sooner  than  the  others.  A  weaver  should 
carefully  attend  to  this,  for  if  the  reed  is  injured,  the  work  cannot 
be  good.  When  cane  reeds  are  used,  and  when  the  webs  wrought 
in  them  are  of  one  breadth,  it  is  very  common  to  make  those  dents 
between  which  the  warp  of  the  selvages  passes,  of  brass  or  steel. 

It  is  unnecessary  to  enumerate  further,  the  defects  Avhich  may 
occur  in  the  weaving  of  cloth,  /or  vo  instruction  can  altogether 
supply  the  want  of  skill,  which  is  only  to  he  ohtained  hy  practical 
experience. 

Having  finished  the  foregoing  general  account  of  the  nature  and 
process  of  weaving,  it  now  becomes  necessary  to  pay  some  attention 
to  the  fancy  and  ornamental  department  of  the  business.  Of 
fancy  goods,  many  descriptions  are  woven  in  the  common  loom, 


94  THE    ART    OP    WEAVING. 

without  any  additional  apparatus,  and  with  httle,  if  any,  variation 
from  the  process  of  weaving  plain  cloths.  The  extent  to  which  this 
species  of  manufacture  is  carried,  renders  it  an  object  of  very  great 
importance,  and  the  variation  in  the  operative  part  of  the  process  is 
so  small,  that  it  may  be  introduced  under  the  description  of  plain 
weaving,  with  little  violation  of  arrangement. 

As  the  thickness  of  the  texture  of  plain  cloth  depends  upon  the  pro- 
portion which  the  fineness  of  the  yarn  bears  to  the  measure  or  set 
of  the  reed,  it  follows,  that  if  yarns  of  different  degrees  of  fineness 
are  introduced  at  regular  intervals  into  the  same  web,  two  distinct 
textures,  or  qualities  of  cloth,  will  be  produced,  and  that  the  ap- 
pearance of  these  will  be  different  when  the  web  is  finished.  Yarns 
of  different  colours  may  also  be  introduced,  and  when  either  of 
these  is  practised  the  goods  are  called 

STRIPES. 

Stripes  are  formed  upon  cloth  either  by  the  warp,  or  by  the  weft. 
When  the  former  of  these  ways  is  practised,  the  variation  of  pro- 
cess is  chiefly  the  business  of  the  warper,  in  the  latter  case  it  is  that 
of  the  weaver.  In  extensive  manufactories,  where  large  quantities 
of  striped  goods  of  the  same  description  are  to  be  made,  it  is  com- 
mon to  form  the  stripes  in  the  warping,  because  in  this  case,  the 
stripes  and  their  distances  from  each  other  will  be  uniform,  which 
cannot  be  always  relied  upon  where  the  stripes  are  formed  by  the 
weft. 

In  warp  stripes,  where  the  colour  is  the  same,  and  the  difference 
is  in  the  fabric,  the  effect  may  be  produced  either  by  using  yarns  of 
different  fineness,  or  by  drawing  a  greater  quantity  of  warp  through 
a  given  number  of  headles  or  intervals  of  the  leed,  where  the  stripes 
are  to  be  formed.  For  example,  two,  or  more  threads,  may  be  drawn 
through  the  same  headle  eye,  or  three,  or  more  headlefuls  may  be 
drawn  through  the  same  interval  of  the  reed,  or  thirdly,  if  the  stripe 
is  to  be  very  thick,  both  these  ways  may  be  adopted. 

CHECKS. 

The  patterns  of  checks  may  be  either  similar,  or  dissimilar  in  the 
warp  and  weft.  The  former  is  the  most  prevalent.  Checks,  being 
merely  combinations  of  the  two  methods  of  striping,  require  no  fur- 
ther description  ;  and  as  they  contain,  most  frequently,  a  mixture 
of  colours,  their  beauty  depends  more  upon  the  taste  and  fancy  of 
the  manufacturer  and  the  skill  of  the  dyer,  than  upon  that  of  the 


PLAIN    WEAVING. 


95 


weaver,  whose  bus'mess  is  merely  to  make  the  cloth  of  a  good 
quality,  and  insert  his  weft  according  to  the  pattern. 

Stripes  and  checks  are  manufactured  in  great  quantities  from  all 
the  different  materials,  especially  from  woollen,  silk,  or  cotton. 
When  the  patterns  of  checks  differ  at  the  borders  from  the  middle 
or  bosom  of  the  web,  they  are  called  shawls  or  handkerchiefs.  It 
is  very  common  to  weave  these  with  borders  only,  the  bosoms  being 
left  plain ;  in  this  case  the  check  work  is  only  at  the  corners,  the 
rest  of  the  four  borders  appearing  as  stripes,  two  by  the  warp,  and 
two  by  the  weft. 

WARPING  OF   STRIPED   WEBS,  &c. 

To  compose  a  pattern  for  a  striped  web,  you  must  begin  by 
counting  the  number  of  threads  in  one  stripe,  then  take  half  that 
number,  if  it  is  two  threads  per  dent,  if  four,  take  the  fourth  of  it ; 
if  8  threads,  |-,  &c.,  which  will  give  the  number  of  dents  in  a  stripe. 
Measure  the  width  of  the  stripe,  so  as  to  ascertain  how  many  times 
it  is  to  be  repeated  in  the  breadth  of  the  web.  Multiply  the  num- 
ber of  times  by  the  dents  in  the  stripe,  and  you  will  have  the  entire 
quantity  of  dents  in  the  web.  Divide  the  number  of  threads  in  the 
web  by  80,  and  as  80  threads  is  a  porter,  you  will  thus  find  the 
number  of  porters.     The  following  example  will  explain  this  : 

Suppose  that  one  stripe  contains  100  dents  with  three  threads 
in  each,  and  that  there  are  10  stripes  in  the  whole  breadth  of  the 
web,  we  may  find  the  number  of  patterns  or  repeats  thus  : 

100     dents  in  the  stripe 
10    repeats  or  stripes 

1000    dents  in  the  web 
3    threads  per  dent 

80)3000(37  (Porters)    Threads  in  the  web 
240 

600 
560 

40    threads  over 

By  this  we  see  that  3000  threads  give  Z7\  porters,  40  threads 
being  half  a  porter. 


D.  H.  HILL  LIBRARY 
North  Carolina  State  Coll«g« 


SECTION    SECOND. 


TWEELING. 


TWEELED   CLOTH. 


This  species  of  weaving  derives  its  name  from  the  French  word 
toiiaille,  and  is  generally  confined  to  thick  fabrics. 

In  analyzing  the  texture  of  plain  cloth,  it  has  been  shown,  that 
every  thread  of  the  warp  and  of  the  weft  cross  each  other  at  right 
angles,  and  are  tacked  together  alternately.  This  is  not  the  case 
in  tweeling,  for  in  this  branch  of  weaving  only  the  third,  fourth, 
fifth,  sixth,  (fcc.  threads  cross  each  other.  Tweeled  cloths  are  pro- 
duced of  many  different  kinds.  In  the  coarsest  species  every  third 
thread  is  crossed,  and  this  is  commonly  caUed  the  blanket  tweel,  in 
finer  fabrics  they  intersect  each  other  at  intervals  of  4,  5,  6,  7,  or  8 
threads,  and  in  some  silk  stuffs  the  crossing  does  not  take  place 
until  the  16th  interval,  which  is  denominated  the  full  satin  tweel. 

Before  proceeding  further  it  may  be  proper  to  explain  what  ia 
known  among  weavers  by  the  appellation  oi flushing.  When  any 
thread  or  portion,  whether  of  warp  or  weft,  is  not  regularly  inter- 
woven in  the  cloth,  as  in  jjlain  weaving,  that  thread  or  portion 
of  tlireads  is  said  to  he  flushed.  By  referring  to  the  following 
Figs,  this  will  be  more  clearly  illustrated. 

Fis.  13. 


In  Fig.  13,  which  is  referred  to  as  a  specimen  of  plain  cloth,  as  it 
would  appear  when  viewed  through  a  microscope,  the  intersections 
of  the  threads  are  evidently  alternate. 


TWEELING. 


97 


Fig.  14. 


Fig.  14  may  be  considered  as  a  representation  of  tweeled  cloth, 
upon  the  same  principle  that  Fig.  13  represents  plain.  This  fig. 
will  show  that  the  same  thread  of  weft  remains  flushed  or  disen- 
gaged from  the  warp  while  passing  over  three  threads,  and  is 
tacked  down  by  passing  under  the  fourth.  Now,  were  this  cloth 
turned  upside  down,  the  same  appearance  would  take  place  in  the 
warp.  That  is  to  say,  every  fourth  thread  of  the  warp  would  be 
interwoven  with  the  weft  and  the  remaining  three  threads  would  be 
flushed.  An  inspection  of  the  Fig.  will  also  convince  the  reader, 
that  the  threads,  both  of  the  warp  and  Aveft,  are  interwoven  at 
regular  intervals. 

To  produce  these  effects  a  number  of  leaves  of  headles  are  re- 
quired, equal  to  the  number  of  threads  contained  in  the  interval  be- 
tween each  intersection,  inclusive.  Thus,  when  every  third  thread 
is  to  be  interwoven,  three  leaves  are  required  ;  if  every  sixth  thread, 
six  leaves  will  be  necessary ;  and  so  of  all  the  others.  For  this 
reason,  the  different  species  of  tweels  are  distinguished  by  the  num- 
ber of  leaves  which  are  requisite  in  weaving  them,  as  a  four,  five, 
or  six  leaf  tweel,  (fcc.  The  specimen  in  Fig.  14  is  a  four  leaf 
tweel. 

Tweeling  is,  in  many  instances,  applied  to  the  weaving  of 
cloths  which  require  a  great  portion  of  strength,  thickness,  and 
durability. 

In  the  silk  manufacture  tweeling  is  very  common.  Sometimes  it  is 
employed  for  the  sake  of  strength,  but  more  frequently  for  the  dis- 
play of  colour.  In  the  woollen,  strength  is  the  general  object,  and 
in  the  cotton  it  is  most  commonly  the  same. 

It  may  be  necessary  in  this  place  to  enquire  into  the  causes 
which  render  tweeled  cloths  stronger  than  plain,  and  to  ascertain 
the  difference. 

In  so  far  as  the  strength  of  tweeled  cloths  depends  solely  on  the 
mode  of  weaving,  that  strength  will  be  rather  diminished  than  in- 
creased, when  compared  with  plain  cloth,  containing  an  equal 
quantity  of  similar  materials.  For  in  the  texture  of  plain  cloth 
every  thread  is  alternately  interwoven,  while  in  that  of  tweels  they 

13 


98  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

are  only  interwoven  at  intervals.  Now,  in  the  latter  case,  the 
threads  can  derive  no  mutual  support  from  each  other,  except  at 
the  intervals  where  they  are  interwoven,  and  that  part  of  them 
which  is  flushed  must  depend  entirely  on  the  strength  of  the  indi- 
vidual threads,  those  of  the  warp  being  flushed  upon  one  side,  and 
those  of  the  weft  upon  the  other. 

The  follo^^^ng  inference  will  naturally  arise  from  this  :  let  two 
webs  of  equal  length,  breadth,  quantity,  and  fineness  of  yarn, 
be  woven  ;  let  the  first  be  plain  and  the  second  tweeled,  and  their 
strength  ought  to  be  the  same.  But  if  by  strength,  we  understand 
that  property  which  opposes  the  most  effectual  and  most  continued 
resistance  to  the  decay  of  cloth,  from  common  wearing,  the  tweeled 
web  (if  equally  used)  would  be  in  tatters  long  before  the  plain  one 
would  be  materially  injured.  This  is  the  idea  commonly,  although 
inaccurately,  attached  to  the  word  strength  when  applied  to  the 
texture  of  cloth  ;  and,  indeed,  the  above  remark  will  not  be  found 
universally  true,  for  the  durabihty  of  cloth  exposed  only  to  common 
wearing,  depends  partly  upon  its  strength,  and  partly  upon  its  flexi- 
bility. 

It  is  not,  therefore,  in  the  effect  of  the  mechanical  operation,  but 
in  the  facility  of  combining  a  greater  quantity  of  materials  in  the 
same  space,  which  this  mode  of  weaving  affords,  that  we  are  to 
look  for  superior  strength  or  durability.  This  may  be  easily  illus- 
trated :  when  the  shed  of  any  web  is  opened,  every  thread  of  warp, 
either  above  or  below  the  thread  of  weft,  will  oppose  a  certain  re- 
sistance to  the  operation  of  the  reed  in  driving  the  weft  thread  home, 
and  the  sum  of  all  these  will  be  the  total  amount  of  resistance. 
Now,  in  plain  weaving,  as  before  stated,  every  thread  is  alternately 
interwoven,  and  therefore,  opposes  its  portion  of  resistance  :  whereas, 
in  a  four  leaf  tweel  every  fourth  thread  only  is  intersected,  and 
of  course,  less  resistance  is  given.  The  ratio  of  resistance,  there- 
fore, will  be  inversely,  in  proportion  to  the  number  of  leaves  of 
headles  in  the  tweel. 

In  the  warp  the  friction  on  the  reed  will  be  diminished,  in  the 
same  proportion  ;  for  each  warp  thread,  instead  of  changing  its 
place  every  time  the  weft  thread  crosses,  changes  only  once  every 
four  times  ;  consequently,  much  more  warp  may  be  crowded  into 
the  same  space  than  could  be  done  in  plain  weaving. 

From  the  above  we  may  safely  deduce,  that  the  strength  or  dura- 
bility of  a  tweeled  web,  will  be  somewhat  less  than  the  proportion 
of  materials  it  contains  will  be  to  that  of  a  plain  web.  supposing 
each  to  be  of  equal  strength  and  quality. 


TWEELING.  99 

But  when  the  fabric  is  very  close,  tvveeled  cloth  possesses  another 
advantage  over  plain  in  point  of  durability.  When  the  warp  of 
plain  cloth  is  very  much  crowded  in  the  reed,  and  the  weft  driven 
very  closely  up,  the  threads,  in  order  to  cross  each  other  alternately, 
must  deviate  very  considerably  from  a  straight  line,  whereas,  when 
woven  they  become  serpentine.  This  renders  the  cloth  very  liable 
to  be  easily  cut  or  chafed,  especially  when  composed  of  hard  and 
comparatively  inflexible  materials,  such  as  flax  ;  and  the  defect  is 
chiefly  observable  in  stout  linens.  But  in  tweeled  cloth,  as  the 
threads  only  cross  at  intervals,  the  deviation  from  the  straight  line 
is  much  less,  and  the  flexibility  of  the  cloth,  of  course,  much  greater. 

The  same  general  remarks  which  have  been  given  in  the  first 
section,  apply  almost  equally  well  to  the  operations  of  the  weaver 
in  all  descriptions  of  work.  The  varieties  consist,  chiefly,  in  the 
modes  of  arranging  the  loom,  so  as  to  enable  the  weaver  to  produce 
the  desired  effect. 

MOUNTING   OF   LOOMS   FOR   TWEELING. 

As  almost  every  variety  of  fancy  weaving  is  produced  by  tlie 
order  and  succession  in  which  the  weft  is  interwoven  with  the  warp, 
the  principal  difference  in  nioiinting  the  looms  is  in  the  number 
and  arrangement  of  the  leaves  of  the  headles,  and  the  apparatus 
for  moving  them.  In  weaving  plain  cloth,  the  jacks  represented  in 
Fig.  8,  at  FF,  answer  the  purpose  sufficiently  well,  because  the 
raising  and  sinking  of  every  thread  is  alternate.  But,  in  the  weav- 
ing of  tweels  and  many  other  kinds  of  ornamental  and  fancy  cloth, 
the  number  of  leaves  is  generally  greater,  and  these  are  to  be  raised 
and  sunk  successively,  or  not,  as  the  nature  of  the  case  may  re- 
quire. It  is  therefore  necessary,  that  the  mounting  of  the  loom 
should  be  adapted  to  the  purpose  for  which  it  is  intended,  and  as 
the  succession  of  working  the  headles  by  means  of  the  treadles  may 
frequently  vary,  the  mounting  which  connects  every  leaf  with  the 
treadle,  and  from  which  its  motion  is  derived,  must  be  such  that  the 
leaf  may  be  raised  or  sunk  independent  of  all  the  others.  A  repre- 
sentation of  the  mechanism  used  for  this  purpose,  by  many  skilfid 
weavers,  will  be  found  in  Fig.  15. 


100 


THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 
Fig.  15. 


^iii"l  Hi'  l.l::l''l^!!ni'!i;i!^MillillilliMtllllil'lll!lllll^ 


liimi!l!IHIIIiillll!!l|l|||iHliil!lllil||l!||||||||l||||||||[|| 


43  AB  12 

In  this  figure  four  leaves  of  the  headles  are  represented  at  C, 
perpendicularly  above  which  are  four  levers,  moving  upon  centres 
at  B.  From  one  end  of  each  of  these  levers  at  A,  a  leaf  of  the 
headles  is  suspended  by  the  two  oblique  placed  cords  :  these  cords 
meetins"  below  the  lever,  continue  as  a  smgle  cord  to  pass  through 
a  groove  in  its  end,  and  are  then  made  fast  to  it.  Below  the  headles 
are  two  sets  of  marches  or  levers,  consisting  of  four  each,  which 
are  moveable  at  the  centres  F  and  I.  The  long  marches  are  dis- 
tinsruished  by  the  letter  E.  the  short  by  G.  Each  of  the  four  long 
marches  is  connected  with  the  end  of  the  corresponding  top  levers 
at  D.  each  short  march  is  connected  vnth  the  lower  shaft  of  the 
leaf  of  the  headles  to  which  it  is  to  give  motion. 

Now,  as  each  of  these  marches  is  connected  with  one  leaf  of  the 
headles.  it  follows,  that  if  a  long-  inarch  is  pulled  down,  the  leaf  will 
rise  :  if  a  short  is  pulled  down,  the  leaf  will  sink. 

This  will  be  apparent,  when  it  is  considered  that  the  cords  below 
form  a  direct  connexion  between  the  lower  headle  shafts  and  the 
short  marches.  Of  course,  when  one  of  the  latter  is  pulled  down^ 
those  of  the  former,  with  which  it  is  connected,  must  sink  also- 
Bu"  the  motion  communicated  from  the  long  marches  to  the  upper 
shafts  is  reversed  at  the  centre  of  the  top  levers  ;  for  when  the  end 


TWEELING.  101 

D  is  pulled  down,  the  end  A  will  rise,  and  the  corresponding  headle 
leaf  will  be  pulled  up.  These  top  levers  are  known  among  weavers 
by  the  name  of  coiipers. 

The  arrangement  of  this  apparatus,  although  very  simple,  ought 
to  be  carefully  studied  by  those  who  are  not  conversant  with  the 
practice  of  weaving,  for  it  is  very  generally  used,  in  almost  every 
species  of  ornamental  work.  The  ends  of  the  top  levers  or  coupers 
at  A,  which  contain  the  grooves  for  the  suspending  cords,  ought  to 
be  segments  of  a  circle,  the  radius  of  which  is  equal  to  the  distance 
of  the  groove  from  the  centre  of  motion  at  B,  in  order  that  the  pull 
may  be  uniformly  perpendicular.  The  distance  of  the  centre  B 
from  the  end  D  is,  generally,  made  twice  as  great  as  that  from  A  to 
B,  for  otherwise  the  long  marches  would  communicate  too  great  a 
range  of  motion  to  the  rising  headles.  If  greater  accuracy  is 
wanted,  the  ranges  of  the  different  levers,  and  the  ratio  which  they 
bear  to  each  other,  may  be  calculated  by  the  same  rules  which 
apply  to  all  other  motions  communicated  by  means  of  levers,  and 
these  are  explained  in  almost  every  elementary  treatise  upon 
mechanics. 

When  the  connections  between  the  headles  and  marches  have 
been  formed,  agreeably  to  the  above  description,  it  is  only  necessary 
to  arrange  the  treadles,  and  to  connect  each  with  the  marches  which 
it  is  intended  to  move. 

It  is  a  common  rule  in  fancy  weaving,  that  every  individual 
treadle  should  be  connected  with  all  the  leaves  of  the  headles,  for 
the  purpose  of  raising  some  and  sinking  the  rest.  Some  exceptions 
to  this  rule  however,  occur ;  but  these  are  few,  and  will  be  particu- 
larly noticed,  when  the  cases  to  which  they  relate  are  being  inves- 
tigated. 

The  connecting  cords  between  the  marches  and  treadles  are  ap- 
plied in  the  manner  proper  for  weaving  a  web  which  maybe  tweeled 
or  plain.  This  kind  of  mounting  is  often  used  for  cloths  in  which 
the  ground  is  woven  plain,  and  stripes  tweeled  hy  the  weft,  occa- 
sionally introduced.  If  the  figure  is  carefully  examined,  the  con- 
nection of  each  treadle  with  the  marches  may  be  easily  distinguished 
by  comparing  the  lines  which  represent  the  cords,  with  the  descrip- 
tion which  will  be  afterwards  given. 

But  previous  to  this,  it  may  be  useful  to  explain  the  mode  of  draw- 
ing plans  upon  paper  to  direct  the  weaver  in  drawing  his  warp 
through  the  headles,  and  of  applying  the  cords  by  which  these 
headles  are  to  be  worked  ;  these  plans  are  generally  called  the 


102 


THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 


DRAUGHT   AND   CORDING. 

Plans  of  this  description  may  be  considered  as  horizontal  sections 
of  a  loom,  for  the  purpose  of  showing  the  headles  and  treadles. 
Although  the  treadles  of  a  loom  are  placed  directly  under  the  hea- 
dles, it  is  usual  to  represent  them  at  one  side,  upon  the  paper,  or 
draught,  for  the  sake  of  easier  reference  from  the  one  to  the  other. 

Fiff.  16, 


Fi2.  17. 


a 


m 


Bjmi 


Figs.  16  and  17,  are  representations  of  tweels  of  four  leaves,  and  as 
the  fabric  of  tweeled  cloth  is  generally  thick  and  close,  they,  being 
on  a  large  scale,  will  convey  a  clear  idea  of  its  appearance,  as  they 
are  designed  to  give  an  accurate  representation  of  the  intersections 
of  the  threads.  If  we  suppose  that  the  warp  of  a  tweeled  web  is 
of  white  yarn,  and  that  the  weft  is  black.  Fig.  16  will  convey  a 
correct  idea  of  the  appearance  of  the  upper  side  of  a  web  when 
woven  in  a  loom  mounted  with  four  leaves  of  headles,  every  fourth 
leaf  being  raised  and  three  sunk ;  and  Fig.  17  will  represent  the 
appearance  of  the  under  side  of  the  same  web  ;  for  in  Fig.  17  the 
white  warp  appears  flashed,  and  in  Fig.  16  the  black  weft  is  flushed. 
Now,  were  the  cording  reversed,  that  is  to  say,  were  three  leaves  to 
rise  and  one  to  sink  when  each  treadle  is  pressed  down,  the  eflfect 
would  be  quite  the  same,  excepting  that  the  upper  side  would  then 
be  flushed  by  the  weft,  as  in  Fig.  16  and  the  under  by  the  warp,  as  in 
Fig.  17.  This  reversing  of  the  flushing,  which  may  be  effected  by 
additional  mounting,  is  the  principle  upon  Avhich  the  ornamental 
figures  upon  many  kinds  of  tweeled  cloth  depends. 
We  shall  have  occasion  to  treat  of  this  hereafter. 


TWEELING. 


103 


ARRANGEMENT   OF   TREADLES. 

When  a  great  number  of  treadles  are  necessary  to  produce  any 
effect,  it  will  be  obviously  the  best  way  to  arrange  them  in  the  suc- 
cession in  which  they  are  to  be  pressed  down  by  the  weaver's  foot,  or 
feet,  when  this  is  practicable.  For  if  some  regular  order  be  not 
adopted,  the  weaver  will  frequently  be  apt  to  mistake  the  treadle 
and  press  down  a  wrong  one.  In  heavy  fabrics,  w'here  great  power 
must  be  applied,  the  weaver  is  generally  obliged  to  use  both  his  feet 
on  the  same  treadle,  as  well  as  the  whole  weight  of  his  body.  In 
this  case  it  is  common  to  place  the  treadles  in  regular  succession 
from  right  to  left,  as — 

6—5—4—3—2—1. 

But  when  the  fabric  is  lighter,  and  when  the  pressure  of  one  foot 
is  sufficient,  it  wall  be  more  couA^enient  to  arrange  the  treadles  so  that 
the  right  and  left  foot  may  be  applied  alternately,  without  crossing 
each  other.  When  this  is  the  case,  the  w^eaver,  while  treading  with 
one  foot,  has  sufficient  time  to  shift  the  other  to  the  next  treadle, 
without  impeding  the  operation.  This  naturally  leads  us  to  com- 
mence our  succession  at  the  centre,  and  to  place  the  succeeding 
treadles  alternately  upon  each  side,  as — 

5_3_1_2_4— 6. 

In  this  case  the  treadles  1,  3,  and  5  will  be  wrought  by  the  left 
foot,  and  the  treadles  2,  4,  and  6  by  the  right ;  and  by  applying 
the  feet  alternately,  the  treadles  from  1  to  6  will  be  wrought  in  the 
regular  order  adopted  in  the  elevation  Fig.  15. 

In  Fig.  15,  four  treadles  are  required  for  the  tweel  and  two  for 
working  the  web  plain.  The  former  are  distinguished  by  numbers, 
the  latter  by  the  letters  AB. 

In  all  the  plans  given  it  is  to  be  understood  that  when  two  trea- 
dles are  applied  for  the  purpose  of  working  the  web  plain,  these 
treadles  are  always  distinguished  by  the  letters  AB.  All  treadles 
for  the  fancy  part  are  distinguished  by  numbers,  and  the  placing 
of  these  numbers  gives  the  order  in  which  the  treadles  ought  to  be 
wrought.     Fig.  18 

Fig.  18. 

p  i,  E  W 


5  4  3  2  1 


104 


THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 


shows  the  draught  and  cording  of  a  loom,  mounted  for  working  a 
tweel  consisting  of  five  leaves  of  headles.  The  only  difference  be- 
tween this  and  the  four  leaf  tweel  is  in  the  number  of  the  leaves 
and  treadles.  The  drawmg  of  the  warp  through  the  headles  pro- 
ceeds in  the  same  regular  succession  from  right  to  left,  and  the  trea- 
dles are  arranged  in  the  same  order.  In  Fig.  18,  five  of  the  lines 
which  represent  the  threads  of  the  warp  are  connected  by  each 
cross  line,  five  threads  therefore  are  to  be  drawn  through  each  in- 
terval of  the  reed.     Fig.  19 

Fig.  19. 


represents  a  kind  of  ornamental  tweel.  produced,  merely,  by  revers- 
ing the  order  m  which  the  warp  is  drawn  through  the  headles. 
The  plan  for  drawing  and  cording  a  web  of  this  description  will  be 
found  by  referring  to  Fig.  20. 

Fig.  20. 


Fig.  20  is  the  cording  of  a  tweeled  stripe,  where  the  tweehng  is  re- 
versed in  the  draught,  in  a  way  similar  to  that  shown  in  Fig.  19. 
Stripes  of  this  kind  are  called  by  weavers  herring  hones,  from  their 
resemblance  to  the  back  bone  of  that  native  of  the  deep.  The 
draught  and  cording  will  appear  by  inspection,  if  the  explanations 
aheady  given  are  fully  understood. 

We  have  hitherto  considered  all  the  threads  of  warp  in  tweeled 
cloth,  as  inter^-oven  in  progressive  succession,  for  the  sake  of  ren- 
dering the  general  principle  of  tweelmg  more  obvious  to  those  pre- 
viously unacquainted  with  this  branch  of  weaving.  When  tweels 
do  not  exceed  four  leaves,  tliis  arrangement  is  always  adopted,  but 
when  a  greater  number  of  leaves  is  used,  a  kind  of  aUemate  suc- 
cession is  esteemed  preferable  :  this  is  called  by  weavers 


TWEELING. 


105 


BREAKING  THE  TWEEL. 

When  a  tweel  consists  of  many  leaves,  the  flushing  of  both  warp 
and  weft  would  be  so  great,  that  the  intervals  between  the  points 
at  which  they  are  interwoven  would  necessarily  be  very  flimsy,  (as 
in  many  kinds  of  French  fancy  vestings)  and  the  fabric  very  un- 
equal. To  obviate  this  inconvenience,  the  broken  tweel  is  used. 
The  same  mounting  by  which  a  regular  tweel  is  wrought,  will  also 
work  a  broken  tweel  by  treading  in  different  succession.  But  this 
would  derange  the  order  of  the  treadles,  and,  as  mentioned  before, 
might  be  productive  of  many  mistakes.  Weavers  therefore  prefer 
placing  the  cording  so  that  the  regular  succession  of  the  treadles 
may  be  preserved,  while  the  effect  of  the  broken  tweel  is  at  the 
same  time  produced.  An  example  of  each  of  these  follows  :  The 
first,  Fig.  21, 

Fig.  21. 


4  3  2  1  A.B 


1     2  3    4    5  6 


is  a  plan  for  mounting  a  loom,  so  as  to  produce  both  plain  and 
tweeled  cloth  at  the  same  time.  Such  plans  are  generally  adopted, 
when  it  is  requisite  to  weave  webs,  the  grounds  of  which  are  to  be 
plain,  and  the  stripes  tweeled  by  the  warp.  Two  treadles  are  added, 
to  enable  the  weaver  to  work  the  whole  fabric  plain,  if  necessary. 
If  not  required,  the  two  plain  treadles  A  B  may  be  omitted.  In 
this  plan,  the  leaves  1,  2,  3  and  4  contain  that  portion  of  the  warp 
which  is  to  form  the  tweeling  or  stripes,  the  leaves  A  B,  that  por- 
tion which  is  to  form  the  ground  or  intervals.  An  examination  of 
the  mode  of  applying  the  cording  will  evince  that  when  the  treadles 
1,  2,  3  and  4  are  pressed  down  in  the  order  of  the  numbers,  the 
tweeling  leaves  1,  2,  3  and  4  will  rise  successively,  and  the  plain 
leaves  A  B  alternately.  The  draught  of  the  warp  through  the 
reed,  as  denoted  by  the  cross  lines,  is  here  adapted  to  the  purpose  of 
rendering  the  tweeled  stripes  more  close  and  compact  than  the  plain 
ground  ;  for  of  the  former  four  threads  pass  through  each  interval, 

14 


106 


THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 


and  of  the  latter  only  two.     But  if  the  whole  is  to  be  wrought 

jjlain,  occasionally,  the  entire  warp  should  be  equally  drawn  through 

both  the  headles  and  reed.     This  case  very  rarely  occurs.     Fig.  22 

is  a  plan  of  a  plain  and  tweeled  stripe,  and  Fig.  23  is  its  draught 

and  cording. 

Fiff.  22. 


Fig.  23. 


43  2   1  1        2      345        678 

Fig.  24  is  a  regular  five  leaf  tweel,  the  same  as  Fig.  IS.  Fig, 
25  is  the  same  tweel  broken  ;  and  the  succession  of  the  treading, 
to  produce  either  the  regular,  or  broken  tweel,  is  expressed  by  the 
numbers  annexed  to  each. 

Fig.  24.  Fig.  25. 


1 

^ 

1 

■ 

1 

2 

sss 

2 

2 

3 

^M 

a 

^ 

3 

4 

m 

4 

J 

4 

5 

5 

■ 

5 

R 
B 

5 

3 

4 
5 

3 
2 

2 
4 

1 

1 

B 

5 
3 

4. 
5 

3 

2 

2 

4 

1 
1 

The  above  example  wtU  sufficiently  show^  the  two  ways  of  tweel- 
ing  :  and  also  that  the  whole  difference  in  the  cording  is  solely  to 
preserve  a  regular  order  in  the  treadles.  The  same  succession  of 
treading  which  breaks  the  tweel  in  Fig.  25,  restores  its  regularity 
in  Fig.  24.  In  these,  and  the  following  examples,  each  interval 
between  the  lines  denotes  a  leaf  of  the  headles.  Numbers  are  used 
to  show  the  order  and  succession  in  which  the  threads  are  drawn, 
and  the  dark  squares  denote  the  raising  cords  ;  which  squares  we 
prefer  to  use  instead  of  cyphers,  as  they  are  more  hke  design  paper. 


TWEELING. 

FI2.  26. 


107 


is  a  specimen  of  the  effect  and  appearance  of  a  five  leaf  tweel, 
broken  in  this  way,  as  viewed  on  the  side  where  the  warp  is  flushed. 
In  the  same  way,  tweels  of  six,  and  seven  leaves  are  drawn  and 
mounted.     The  following  are  examples  of  each  : 


Fig.  27. 
Regular. 


SIX  LEAF  TWEELS. 

Fig.  28. 
Broken. 


^m, 

1 

1 

■ 

2 

MM 

2 

E^= 

3 

-m 

3 

E^ 

4 

Hi 

4 

E5=i= 

5 

ffl 

.5 

■ 

6 

ft=j 

i^ 

R.   6     5     4     3    2     1 
B.    6     4     2     5    3     1 


B.    6     5    4    3    2    1 
R.    6     4    2    5    3     1 


SEVEN  LEAF  TWEELS. 


Fig.  29. 
Reofular. 


Fig.  30. 
Broken. 


■ 

1 

=== 

1 

^ 

2 

^^ 

2 

3 

^ 

3 

=^ 

4 

— 

4 

M 

5 

E== 

5 

^ 

6 

^^ 

6 

^ 

7 

H 

7 

R.    7     6     5    4     3     2     1 

B.    7     6     5     4    3     2 

1 

B.    6     4     2    7     5    3     1 

R.    6    4     3     7    5     3 

1 

These  examples  will  show  the  manner  of  forming  the  alternate 
or  broken  tweel.  It  is  to  be  observed  that  the  cording  may  be 
adapted  in  various  ways,  and  the  tweel  broken  in  several  places, 
according  to  the  discretion  of  the  weaver.  When  the  number  of 
leaves  will  admit  of  it,  the  succession  should  be  made,  as  nearly  as 
possible,  at  equal  intervals.  For  example,  in  the  broken  tweel  of 
six  leaves,  (shown  in  Fig.  28.)  all  the  leaves  ought  to  follow  each 
other  in  succession,  passing  one  leaf  between  each  until  you  come 
to  the  sixth  treadle,  but  as  the  first  treadle  immediately  follows  the 


108 


THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 


sixth  in  repeating  the  operation,  there  will  be  no  interval  there ;  and 
the  effect  of  these  two  leaves  will  be  that  of  a  regular  tweel,  while 
all  the  rest  give  that  of  a  broken  tweel.  There  is  also  an  interval 
of  two  leaves  between  the  intersection  produced  by  the  third  and 
fourth  treadles. 

This,  however,  cannot  be  avoided  in  working  with  six  leaves ;  this 
number,  therefore,  although  given  as  an  illustration,  ought  to  be 
avoided  in  practice.  The  five  leaf  tweel  also,  though  much  used, 
has  an  interval  of  two  leaves  between  the  third  and  fourth  treadle. 

When  eight  leaves  are  employed,  the  succession  in  breaking  the 
tweel  is  different,  and  disposes  the  warp  at  intervals  more  perfectly 
than  any  tweel  that  can  be  formed  by  a  smaller  number  of  leaves. 

In  all  the  former,  the  interval  is  formed  by  passing  one  leaf  be- 
tween every  two  until  the  whole  are  corded,  but  in  the  eight  leaf 
tweel  two  leaves  are  omitted,  and  the  third  has  the  raising  cord  ap- 
pUed,  as  will  be  seen  by  the  followmg  example.  Fig.  31. 


EIGHT  LEAF  DAMASK  TWEEL,  OR  HALF  SATIN. 
Fig.  31. 


isa 

1 

^= 

2 

^ 

3 

BB 

4 

^n 

5 

w^ 

6 

p= 

7 

^ 

8 

Broken.    8     7     6     5     4     3     2    1 
Regular.    6     3     8     5     2     7     4     1 

It  is  unnecessary  to  give  further  explanation  of  the  eight  leaf 
tweel,  because  it  proceeds  exactly  like  those  already  given ;  besides, 
with  so  many  leaves,  regular  tweehng  is  seldom  used.  By  examin- 
ing this  cording  it  will  appear,  that  the  intervals  by  which  the  tweel 
is  broken  are  perfectly  regular,  for  the  first  treadle  succeeds  the 
eighth  at  the  same  interval  as  all  the  others. 

It  is  to  be  observed  of  satin  tweels,  that  some  are  perfect  in  re- 
spect to  the  intervals  at  which  the  leaves  can  be  raised,  and  others 
are  imperfect.  When  the  leaves  can  be  raised  regularly  at  in- 
tervals of  one,  two  or  more  from  each  other,  the  tweel  is  said  to  be 
perfect ;  but  imperfect  when  the  number  of  leaves  does  not  admit 
of  this  arrangement.  The  lowest  tweel  that  can  be  broken  is  that 
of  four  leaves,  which  is  usually  called  the  satinett  tweel. 

The  last  specimen  of  common  tweels  which  we  shall  give,  is  that 


TWEELING. 


109 


of  sixteen  leaves,  and  is  only  to  be  found  in  some  of  the  very  fine 
Chinese,  Itahan,  French  and  English  silk  fabrics.  Here  the  tweel 
is  broken  by  omitting  four  leaves  and  cording  the  fifth. 


SIXTEEN  LEAF,  OR  FULL  SATIN  TWEEL. 

Fiff.  32. 


1 

^ 

2 

3 

==^ 

4 

5 

6 

^ 

7 

8 

gi^ 

9 

^ 

10 

^ 

11 

^ 

12 

^ 

13 

i^ 

14 

=- 

15 

16 

16 

15 

14 

13 

12 

11 

10 

9 

8 

7 

6 

5 

4 

3 

2 

1 

Having  finished  our  observations,  for  the  present,  on  this  part  of 
our  subject,  and  given  such  examples  as  appear  necessary  to  con- 
vey a  sufficient  knowledge  of  the  principles  of  common  tweeling, 
of  the  varieties  of  which  it  is  susceptible,  and  of  the  machinery  re- 
quisite for  weaving  the  various  kinds,  our  next  object  is  to  investi- 
gate the  means  by  which  looms  are  adapted  to  the  weaving  of 

TWEELED  STRIPES. 

In  the  references  to  Figs.  16  and  17,  the  flushing  upon  tweeled 
cloth  has  been  explained.  On  one  side  the  warp  is  flushed,  on  the 
other  the  weft.  Most  kinds  of  fancy  tweeled  stripes  are  produced 
by  the  application  of  this  principle. 

Stripes  upon  tweeled  cloth  differ  from  those  upon  plain  in  the 
following  respects  :  tweeled  stripes  may  be  formed  without  any  dis- 
tinction in  the  fineness  of  the  warp  ;  nor  do  they  require  super- 
numerary threads  to  be  drawn  either  through  the  headles  or  the 
reed,  it  is  only  requisite  to  flush  the  warp  and  weft  alternately. 

The  examples  necessary  to  illustrate  this  are  upon  the  scale  of  a 
five  leaf  tweel ;  for  the  same  principle  will  apply  to  any  number 
of  leaves  used  for  tweeling. 


110 


THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 


FIVE  LEAP  TWEEL  STRIPE. 

Fig.  33. 
Regular  and  Reversed.* 


1  1  1 

^ 

2  22 

M 

3  3  3 

4  4  4 

■ 

5  5  5 

■ 

■ 

H 

1  1  1 

^m 

m 

= 

2  2  2 

;  .  ■,:;■" 

3  3  3 

1 

'- 

isa 

4  4  4 

]' 

-ip--' 

5  5  5 

5 

4 

3 

2 

1 

The  above  is  a  specimen  of  a  stripe  upon  ten  leaves  of  headles, 
five  of  which  flush  the  ivarp  and  five  the  weft. 

This  stripe  is  produced  by  two  sets  of  leaves,  consisting  of  five 
each.  The  cording  of  the  back  set  is  exactly  the  same  as  the  regu- 
lar five  leaf  tweel,  already  described  in  Fig.  18  (which  see  ;)  that  of 
the  front  set  is  the  same  reversed;  in  the  back  set  there  are  five  raising 
cords  which  raise  one  leaf  successively,  while  all  the  rest  sink,  and 
there  are  also  five  sinking  cords,  as  indicated  by  the  blanks,  which 
sink  one  leaf  successively,  while  all  the  rest  rise  as  in  the  front  set. 
By  this  arrangement  the  back  set  flushes  the  weft,  the  other  the  warp. 
The  stripe  is  formed  by  drawing  a  portion  of  the  warp  through  one 
set  of  leaves,  then  another  portion  through  the  other  set,  and  so  on 
alternately,  according  to  the  pattern  of  the  stripe,  which  may  be 
regulated  by  fancy. 

It  is  usual  in  this  species  of  tweeling  to  invert  the  order  of  raising 
the  leaves  of  the  two  sets  ;  for  it  will  be  obvious,  that  when  the 
treadles  are  worked  in  the  order  from  right  to  left,  the  back  leaves 
will  rise  in  succession  from  one  to  five,  and  the  front  leaves  will 
sink  in  an  inverted  succession  from  5  to  1. 

If  a  broken  tweel  is  preferred,  the  leaves  are  corded  exactly  as  in 
common  tweeling,  one  set  rising;  the  other  sinking.  The  follow- 
ing example  will  be  sufficient : 


*  When  one  headle  is  lifted  out  of  every  five,  in  regular  succession,  the 
tweel  is  said  to  be  regular ;  and,  when  four  are  lifted  out  of  every  five,  it  is 
called  reversed.  In  the  former  case,  four  fifths  of  the  weft  show  on  the  upper 
side  of  the  clotli ;  and,  in  the  latter,  four  fifths  of  the  warp.  This  explanation 
we  give  merely  as  an  example,  for  these  terms  are  applied  to  tweels  of  any 
number  of  leaves.    Fig.  33.  shows  the  tweel  regular  and  reversed. 


TWEELING. 


Ill 


FIVE  LEAF  TWEEL  STRIPE. 

Fig.  34. 
Broken  and  Reversed. 


s 

1 1 1 1 

■ 

2  2  22 

^^ 

3  3  3  3 

m 

4  4  4  4 

5  5  5  5 

^= 

m 

1111 

H 

m 

2  2  2  2 

m 

3  3  3  3 

4  4  4  4 

m 

5  5  5  5 

5  4  3  2  1 
All  tweeled  stripes  are  mounted  upon  the  same  principle.  Any 
number  of  leaves  may  be  adopted,  as  in  common  tweeling.  The 
patterns  depend  entirely  upon  the  succession  of  drawing  the  warp 
through  the  leaves  of  the  headles,  and  may  be  varied  almost  to 
infinity. 


TURNED  OR  REVERSED  TWEELING. 

In  all  the  regular  and  broken  tweels  the  greatest  proportion  of 
the  weft  is  thrown  to  one  side  of  the  cloth,  and  of  the  warp  to  the 
other.  In  a  five  leaf  tweel,  for  example,  if  the  warp  were  one 
colour  and  the  weft  another,  and  as  there  is  always  one  leaf  raised 
and  four  sunk,  it  will  follow,  that  four  fifths  of  the  weft  will  appear 
on  the  upper  side  of  the  cloth  and  four  fifths  of  the  warp  below. 
But,  were  the  plan  of  this  cording  reversed,  four  fifths  of  the  warp 
would  be  thrown  on  the  upper  side  and  of  the  weft  below.  Changing 
the  appearance  of  the  weft  from  one  side  of  the  cloth  to  the  other 
in  this  manner  is  called  turning,  or  reversing  the  tweel,  (see  Figs. 
16  and  17)  and  is  of  very  extensive  application  in  diflferent  branches 
of  weaving,  particularly  in  dimity,  diaper,  and  damask,  which 
will  be  explained  in  their  proper  places. 

Suppose,  therefore,  that  a  piece  of  cloth  were  to  be  woven  in 
tweeled  stripes,  one  stripe  the  reverse  of  the  other,  two  sets  of  tweel- 
ing  leaves  would  be  necessary,  and  the  plans  of  cording  on  the 
treadles  would  also  be  the  reverse  of  each  other.  The  first  of  these 
tweels,  in  respect  to  the  number  of  leaves,  is  the  dimity  cord,  which 
is  merely  the  three  leaf  tweel  turned,  a  plan  of  which  is  subjoined, 
both  for  cording  and  treading  : 


112 


THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

DIMITY  CORD. 
Fig.  35. 


CoTfiing. 

Treading 

■ 

1  1  1 

^^5^ 

1 

:^^ 

^ 

2  2  2 

M 

3  3  3 

^ 

■ 

■ 

M 

1  1  1 

■ 

H 

■ 

^ 

M 

222 

■ 

■ 

^ 

■ 

33  3 

■ 

3 

2 

1 

6 

4 

2 
5 

3 

1 

In  the  above  plan  the  first  nine  threads  of  warp  are  drawn  on  the 
back  set  of  leaves,  and  the  other  nine  on  the  front  set.  Under  the 
word  cording,  the  raising  marks  are  so  placed  on  the  back  leaves 
as  to  flush  or  float  the  weft  on  the  upper  side  of  the  cloth,  and  on 
the  front  leaves  to  throw  up  the  warp. 


DORNIC   AND  DIAPER. 

This  branch  of  weaving  was  cliiefly  confined  to  the  manufacture, 
of  table  linens,  till  of  late  that  it  has  been  apphed  to  certain  species 
of  shawls,  in  the  cotton  manufacture,  the  warp  and  weft  of  which 
are,  in  general,  of  diflferent  colours.  The  coarser  sets  of  table 
linens,  and  which  require  the  least  mounting,  having  only  a  four 
leaf  tweel,  were  manufactured  in  considerable  quantities,  some 
time  ago,  at  the  village  of  Dornock,  in  the  north  of  Scotland,  whence 
the  name  Dornic :  but  the  finer  kinds  which  are  usually  woven  by 
a  more  extensive  apparatus,  and  in  general  with  a  tweel  of  five 
leaves  are  called  diaper. 

The  most  simple  pattern  of  this  kind  is  the  damboard  or  checker 
as  shown  in  Fig,  36. 

DAMBOARD  OR  CHECKER. 

Fig.  36. 


DORNIC    AND    DIAPER.  113 

But  such  draughts,  instead  of  forming  squares,  may  be  broken 
into  an  indefinite  number  of  parts  of  various  dimensions,  and  when 
the  whole  of  this  variety  contained  in  one  set  of  the  pattern  is 
woven  square,  Avhich  is  effected  by  following  the  same  order  of  suc- 
cession in  treading,  as  is  observed  in  the  draught,  or  any  other  suc- 
cession which  fancy  may  suggest,  an  endless  diversity  of  figures 
may  be  produced,  merely  by  two  sets  of  tweeling  leaves.  The  fol- 
lowing plan,  Fig.  37, 

Fiff.  37. 


which  may  be  taken  for  an  example,  is  the  draught  and  cording 
of  a  very  common  pattern  in  this  branch  of  weaving,  and  the 
figure  which  it  produces  is  represented  on  design  paper  in  Fig.  38. 

Fig.  38. 


„.,— M.MSKKS    SB 

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IBBBBa.*  ■^.■■■■"S  ■„" 

This  draught  and  plan  of  cording  are  adapted  to  the  four  leaf 
regular  tweel,  the  cording  being  the  same  as  the  checker  (Fig.  36  :) 
but  it  will  be  obvious,  from  the  examples  given  under  the  article 
tweeling,  that  the  same  figure  may  be  produced  by  a  tweel  of  any 
other  number  of  leaves,  and  woven  either  by  the  regular  or  broken 
method  of  treading. 

When  two  or  more  sets  of  tweeling  leaves  are  thus  employed,  the 
mounting  is  said  to  consist  of  two  or  more  divisions,  (each  division 
generally  contain  four  leaves  of  headles)  and  the  draught  and  cord- 
is 


114  THE    ART   OF    WEAVING. 

ings  of  such  mountings  are  usually  marked  on  one  leaf  and  treadle 
for  each  set  or  division  which  are  sufficient  to  exhibit  all  the  design. 
This  is  called  the  binding  plan,  because  it  binds,  as  it  were,  the 
several  divisions  together  which  are  at  any  time  to  be  raised,  and 
brings  all  that  is  essential  in  the  pattern  into  a  small  compass ;  so 
that  the  weaver  has  only  to  substitute  one  set  of  tweeling  leaves 
and  treadles,  whatever  number  may  be  employed,  for  each  leaf  and 
treadle  in  this  plan. 

This  will  be  apparent  by  comparing  the  preceding  draught  and 
cording  (Fig.  37,)  with  the  corresponding  draught  and  cording  on 
two  divisions,  (each  of  which  represent  four  leaves)  marked,  w,  in 
which  it  will  be  observed,  that  on  the  back  set  of  the  leaves  A,  there 
are  two  draughts,  which  are  marked  2,  then  2  over  the  fore  set  B. 
These  are  succeeded  by  eight  draughts  on  the  set  A,  two  on  the  set 
B,  two  on  the  set  A,  and  eight  on  the  set  B  ;  all  of  which  are  set 
doAvn  in  figures,  respectively,  on  the  binding  plan  m. 

Where  the  four  treadles  A  cross  the  leaves  or  divisions  marked 
A,  the  greatest  portion  of  raising  marks  is  placed,  or  that  division 
is  said  to  be  raised  in  order  to  reverse  the  tweel :  a  raising  mark  is 
therefore  placed  in  the  corresponding  square  of  the  binding  plan 
on  the  treadle  marked  a,  the  same  is  to  be  observed  with  respect  to 
the  leaves  and  treadles  marked  B  (Fig.  37,)  and  this  takes  place  in 
all  those  plans  which  are  given  in  the  contracted  form,  whatever 
number  of  divisions  they  contain. 

In  weaving  this  pattern,  the  weaver  works  twice  over  the  treadles 
A,  because  these  reverse  the  tweel  in  such  parts  of  the  pattern  as 
are  represented  on  the  back  division,  and  by  following  the  succes- 
sion of  the  draught,  he  goes  twice  over  the  treadles  B,  eight  times 
over  the  treadles  A,  and  so  on,  till  the  figure  be  square,  after  which 
the  same  succession  is  repeated. 

When  dornic  or  diaper  patterns  are  drawn  on  design  paper,  which 
is  usually  10  by  10,  each  black  square  in  the  binding  plan  denotes 
one  space  by  the  warp,  so  that  each  of  these  spaces  may  contain 
sometimes  four,  and  sometimes  five  threads,  according  as  it  is  in- 
tended for  dornic  or  diaper,  or  fineness  of  the  reed.  The  spaces  by 
the  weft  likewise  contain  a  corresponding  number  of  picks,  or  once 
over  the  set  of  headles. 

Keeping  still  in  mind  the  general  rule,  that  all  patterns  formed 
by  the  warp  are  produced  by  the  raising  cords,  let  the  warp  in  this 
example  be  supposed  blue,  and  the  weft  white,  then  the  dark  shaded 
spaces  in  the  figure  will  represent  the  pattern  as  formed  by  flushing 
the  warp  above,  and  the  white  spaces,  those  parts  of  the  pattern 


DORNIC    AND    DIAPER. 


115 


where  the  warp  is  underneath.  Hence  the  two  spaces  at  the  bot- 
tom of  the  design  (Fig.  3S.)  will  represent  those  parts  of  the  figure 
which  are  produced  by  working  twice  over  the  treadles  A,  the  next 
two  spaces  those  that  are  produced  by  the  treadles  B  ;  the  treadles  A, 
again  being  wrought  eight  times  over  from  the  large  squares  of  eight 
spaces  each  way,  and  so  on  with  any  other  variety  that  may  occur, 
without  any  regard  to  the  number  of  tweeling  leaves  in  the  division. 

It  must  be  observed  however,  that  this  pattern  is  drawn  upon  a 
comparatively  small  scale,  and  thus  in  applying  such  patterns  to 
practice,  they  may  be  enlarged  in  any  given  proportion,  either  to  ex- 
pand their  dimension  or  to  suit  them  to  any  desirable  set  of  reed  ;  thus 
were  all  the  figures  on  the  plan,  7n,  multiplied  by  3,  the  draught  would 
stand  three  times  the  size  it  now  is,  and  so  of  any  other  pattern. 

Vs  hen  a  still  greater  variety  of  pattern  is  required,  tlie  number  of 
divisions  must  be  increased  as  in  the  other  branches  of  weaving  ; 
as  these  mountings,  however,  can  only  l>e  augmented  by  adding 
complete  sets  of  the  tweel,  the  varieties  arising  from  an  increase  of 
leaves  in  this,  must  be  more  limited  than  in  almost  any  other 
branch.  This  disadvantage  however,  is  in  a  great  measure  com- 
pensated by  the  ingenious  diversity  which  is  usually  observed  in 
the  succession  of  the  draught,  by  means  of  which  a  style  of  pattern 
peculiar  to  diaper  weaving  is  produced.  The  same  draught,  also, 
will  weave  a  variety  of  patterns,  agreeably  to  the  different  arrange- 
ments of  the  raising  cords  upon  the  binding  plan,  and  the  succes- 
sion of  working  over  the  treadles  ;  and  that  diaper  moimtings  may 
not  always  be  confined  to  their  original  draughts,  the  beadles  are 
not,  in  general,  spaced  like  common  power  loom,  or  other  headles, 
but  are  cast  separately,  as  in  the  finer  kinds  of  fancy  mountings,  so 
as  to  run  upon  the  backing  or  mvddUng  cord,  by  which  the  weaver 
can  adapt  them,  at  pleasure,  to  any  pattern  he  may  have  occasion 
to  weave.     The  following  plan.  Fig.  39, 

Fis.  39. 


to 

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Binding  Plan  and  Treading. 

116  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

which  is  on  a  scale  of  four  divisions,  and  only  a  four  leaf  tweel,  for 
saving  room,  will  give  the  reader  an  idea  of  the  manner  in  which 
a  variety  of  patterns  may  be  obtained  from  the  same  draught  and 
succession  of  treading,  merely  by  a  different  position  of  the  raising 
cords  upon  the  treadles. 


SECTION    THIRD. 


WEAVING  DOUBLE  CLOTH. 


The  next  variety  of  weaving  that  claims  our  attention,  is  that  of 
double  cloth,  which  is  for  the  most  part  composed  of  two  similar 
fabrics  (generally  plain)  interwoven  at  various  intervals,  and  formed 
into  a  diversity  of  figures,  agreeably  to  the  design  of  the  pattern  to 
be  produced.  This  is  the  method  usually  practised  in  ingrain  car- 
pet weaving  (which  see.) 

In  order  to  render  this  species  of  weaving  as  perspicuous  as  possi- 
ble, let  us  take,  for  example,  the  warp  of  any  plain  fabric  one 
thread  of  which  is  blue  and  the  other  white,  alternately,  and  let  us 
suppose  this  warp  to  be  drawn  through  a  common  four  leaf  set  of 
plain  headles  in  the  usual  way.  These  headles  might  be  worked 
to  produce  the  following  changes  of  fabric  : 

1st.  When  the  two  back  leaves  are  raised  and  sunk  alternately 
with  the  two  fore  ones,  and  white  weft  thrown  across,  the  whole 
fabric,  which  is  plain  cloth,  will  be  formed  into  very  small  blue  and 
white  stripes,  and  if  a  pick  of  blue  and  a  pick  of  white  be  thrown 
in  alternately,  a  corresponding  check  will  be  produced. 

2d.  If  the  two  fore  leaves  were  constantly  sunk  and  the  back 
ones  raised  alternately,  it  is  plain,  that  by  throwing  in  blue  weft, 
all  the  blue  warp  would  be  woven  into  a  uniformly  blue  fabric, 
leaving  the  white  warp  unwoven  below. 

3d.  Were  the  two  back  leaves  constantly  raised  and  the  two 
front  ones  raised  alternately,  a  white  fabric  would  be  produced  by 
throwing  in  white  weft,  leaving  out  the  blue  warp  above. 

Hence,  if  one  shuttle  only  were  employed  for  both  webs,  so  long 


DOUBLE    CLOTH.  117 

as  the  weaver  continued  to  work  upon  one  set  of  treadles,  the  two 
webs  would  still  be  distinct,  except  at  the  selvages,  where  they 
would  be  united  by  the  weft. 

It  was  in  this  manner  that  Ichao  he-he-hi-ho  Ouang  (nephew  to 
Tehng  Ouang,  emperor  of  China,  who  reigned  1079  years  before 
Christ,)  manufactured  hempen  pipes,  for  conducting  water  to  his 
uncle's  flower  gardens.  Pipes,  woven  in  the  same  way,  have  been 
lately  adapted,  in  France,  to  the  fire  engine,  and  also  as  wicks  for 
the  patent  lamps.  It  was  likewise  on  this  principle  that  Julius 
Cesar's  great  coat  was  woven. 

TWEELING  DOUBLE  CLOTH. 

Although  tweeling,  however  extensively  it  may  be  otherwise  em- 
ployed, is  seldom  applied  to  double  cloth,  yet  as  there  is  great  room 
here  for  a  display  of  ingenuity,  especially  in  the  manufacture  of 
shawls,  plaids,  bed  covers,  (fcc,  it  will  be  necessary  to  show  how  the 
several  varieties  of  this  kind  of  texture  may  be  produced. 

It  has  been  already  observed  that  four  leaves  of  headles,  two  for 
each  set,  are  required  to  weave  double  cloth  of  the  plain  texture. 
If,  therefore,  one  set  of  tweeling  leaves  be  substituted  for  each  set 
of  plain  ones,  it  will  be  obvious,  that  every  variety  of  pattern  that 
can  be  produced  on  the  plain  texture,  can  likewise  be  effected  on 
the  tweeled  one. 

For  example,  take  six  leaves,  enter  orange  warp  in  the  back 
three,  and  red  warp  in  the  front  three.  It  is  evident  that  if  the 
back  set  be  worked,  a  three  leaf  tweel  can  be  produced  by  lifting 
one  leaf  in  regular  succession  until  three  picks  of  weft  be  thrown 
into  the  web,  and  thus,  supposing  the  weft  to  be  orange,  cloth  of 
that  colour  will  be  produced,  entirely  independent  of  the  red  warp 
in  the  front  leaves. 

Again,  by  working  the  front  leaves  exclusively  of  the  back  ones, 
a  red  fabric  will  be  produced,  provided  the  weft  be  red ;  and  if 
these  two  webs  be  made  to  pass  through  each  other  at  different  in- 
tervals, various  devices  and  patterns  may  be  produced.  (See  in- 
grain carpeting.) 

This  mounting  makes  one  web  entirely  orange  and  the  other 
all  red,  but  if  the  two  colours  of  weft  be  different  from  the  warp, 
then  we  may  throw  the  greater  proportion  of  either  one,  or  both 
warps,  outward,  or  inward,  and  thus  a  variety  of  colours  may  be 
displayed. 

As  it  would,  however,  require  a  great  number  of  leaves  of  headles, 


lis  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

and  treadles  to  weave  but  a  very  limited  pattern  on  this  principle, 
this  style  of  work  seems  to  be  peculiarly  adapted  to  the  draw-loom, 
under  which  head  the  subject  of  tweehng  double  cloth  will  be  fur- 
ther illustrated. 

THE  JUNCTION  OF  TWO  UNEQUAL  FABRICS. 

This  species  of  double  cloth  is  chiefly  confined  to  qiiiltings,  com- 
monly called  Marseilles  quiltings.which  are  also  manufactured  in 
considerable  quantities  in  Great  Britain,  and  printed  for  vestings. 

The  mounting  of  a  quilt  consists  of  a  set  of  plain  headles,  usually 
four  for  the  face,  and  a  number  of  stitching  leaves  proportionate  to 
the  range  of  the  pattern  for  the  back,  and  these  produce  all  the 
variety  of  figure  m  the  design.  The  stitching  leaves  are  frequently 
adapted  to  diagonal  and  diamond  patterns,  although  they  may  be 
made  to  produce  any  other  fancy  figure  at  pleasure,  and  the  range 
of  pattern,  as  in  other  branches  of  ornamental  weaving,  may  be 
enlarged  beyond  the  power  of  leaves,  or  until  the  application  of  the 
draw  loom  becomes  necessar)^* 

Q,uiltings  are  generally  v/oven  in  reeds  of  the  Manchester  and 
Bolton  count,  which  contain  a  certain  number  of  beers  or  porters 
in  24|-  inches.  The  warp  and  weft  of  the  face  are  considerablj'" 
finer  than  those  of  the  back,  and  two  threads  of  the  face  and  one 
of  the  back  are  drawn  into  the  same  interval  or  split  of  the  reed. 
If  we  take,  for  example,  a  No.  36  reed  that  is  36  beers  in  24;^  inches, 
the  warps  and  wefts  as  noted  below  will  make  a  pretty  good  quiU  : 

For  the  face  No.  36.  ) 

For  the  back        26.  ^  '^^^""P^' 

face         46.  )       ^ 
11  r>a   t  weits. 

back        d6.  \ 

In  weaving  these  fabrics,  there  are  two  picks  of  the  fine  and  two 
of  the  coarse  weft  thrown  in  alternately.  One  pick  of  the  fine 
stitches  the  back  and  face  together,  and  one  of  the  coarse  is  thrown 
in  between  the  back  and  the  face  clear  of  both  fabrics,  and  this  is 
called  the  wadding.  The  other  coarse  pick  goes  into  one  of  the 
sheds  that  work  the  back,  so  that  when  eight  picks  of  weft  are 
thrown,  four  go  to  the  face,  two  for  wadding,  and  two  are  thrown 
into  the  two  alternate  sheds  of  the  back.  The  following  plan 
(Fig.  40)  will  show  the  construction  of  a  quilt  mounting. 

*  The  late  Mr.  David  Anderson,  Damask  Manufacturer,  Glasgow,  wove 
a  shirt  with  a  fine  frill,  double  stitched  neck,  shoulder  straps,  and  wrist 
bands;  also  gussets,  buttons,  button  holes,  &c.  with  the  Royal  Arms  em- 
blazoned on  the  breast. 


DOUBLE    CLOTH. 


119 


DIAGONAL  aUlLT. 


Fia.     0 


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In  the  above  plan  A  and  B  are  the  two  leaves  for  the  face,  and 
0,  V,  w,  T,  the  stitching  or  back  leaves.  The  treadle  b,  opens  one 
shed  of  the  face,  and  sinks  all  the  warp  of  the  back,  and  this  trea- 
dle works  alternately  with  the  treadles,  e,  /,  g,  h,  which  open  the  other 
shed  of  the  face  and  at  the  same  time  raise  each  of  the  back  or 
stitching  leaves.  The  treadles,  a,  and  c,  open  the  two  sheds  of  the 
back,  while  at  the  same  time  they  raise  all  the  warp  of  the  face 
above  the  shuttle.  The  treadle,  d,  opens  the  shed  for  the  wadding, 
by  raising  the  face  and  sinking  the  back. 

By  tracing  over  the  figures  that  point  out  the  order  of  treading  it 
will  be  found  that  the  first  and  second  picks,  which  are  fine,  are 
thrown  into  the  face,  but  at  the  first  tread  the  stitching  leaf,  x,  is 
raised,  by  which  the  back  and  face  are  tacked  together.  The 
third  and  fourth  picks  are  coarse,  the  former  goes  for  wadding  and 
the  latter  is  the  first  shot  of  the  back.  The  fifth  and  sixth  picks  are 
fine,  which  are  wrought  into  the  face,  but  the  former  has  the  back 
leaf,  w,  raised,  by  which  the  back  is  again  stitched  to  the  face. 
The  seventh  and  eighth  picks  are  coarse,  the  former  goes  for  wad- 
ding, and  the  latter  forms  the  second  pick  of  the  back  :  and  thus  any 
pattern  may  be  woven  at  pleasure,  according  to  the  succession  of  the 
draught  on  the  stitching  leaves,  and  the  order  in  which  they  are  raised. 
Although  the  preceding  plan  is  given  in  the  most  concise  form 
of  which  it  is  susceptible,  in  order  to  render  the  principles  of  this 
species  of  weaving  as  perspicuous  as  possible,  yet  in  practice  the 
weaver  will  find  it  very  awkward  to  shift  his  right  foot  from  each 
of  the  stitching  treadles  to  the  wadding  one,  while  his  left  is  en- 
gaged with  a  different  succession  with  the  others.  To  obviate  this, 
a  wadding  treadle  with  the  same  cording  is  usually  placed  alter- 
nately with  a  stitching  one,  by  which  arrangement  the  succession 
of  treading  for  the  right  foot  will  be  in  a  regular  or  progressive 


120 


THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 


order  over  the  treadles.     This  arrangement  is  common  in  practice, 
and  is  therefore  adopted  in  the  following  examples :  Fig.  41  is  a 


DIAMOND  aUILT. 

Fi?.  41. 


1 

^ 

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1 

^M 

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14 
18 
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4 
12 

20 

13 

11 

15 

9 
17 

19 

5 
21 

3 
23 

1 

WAVED  aUILT. 
Fig.  42. 


DIAMOND  aUILT. 
Fig.  43. 


CORDING  OF  FIGS.  42  AND  43. 
Ficr.  44. 


te 

^ 

M 

B 

1 

^ 

H 

m 

^ 

■ 

H 

■ 

■ 

1 

M 

8 
16 
2i 
32 
40 
48 

^ 

^= 

25 

23 

27 

■ 

21 
29 

19 
31 

17 
33 

15 

35 

13 
37 

y 

11 

39 

§r 

2 
16 
10 
14 
18 
22 
26 
30 
34 
38 
42 
46 

4 
12 
20 
28 
36 
44 

-- 

9 
41 

7 
43 

5 
45 

3 
47 

1 

DOUBLE  CLOTH. 


121 


DOUBLE  CLOTH  HARNESS. 

Having  already  explained  the  principle  on  which  double  cloth  is 
woven,  it  only  remains  for  us  to  show  how  that  principle  is  extended 
to  the  draw  loom. 

Suppose  we  take  a  shawl  for  example,  the  pattern  of  which  is 
scarlet  and  the  ground  blue,  the  warp  of  course  will  be  composed  of 
a  blue  and  scarlet  thread  alternately ;  and  suppose  two  threads  of 
each  colour  to  be  drawn  through  each  mail  of  the  harness.  Were 
the  texture  to  be  that  of  a  three  leaf  tweel,  six  front  leaves,  three 
for  the  blue  and  three  for  the  scarlet,  would  be  necessary,  and  twelve 
treadles  would  be  required  to  make  the  treading  alternate.  A  four 
leaf  tweel,  however,  would  require  eight  leaves  of  headles  and  only 
eight  treadles.  The  following  plans  will  show  the  draught  and 
cording  of  these  mountings  : 


THREE  LEAF  TWEEL. 
Fig.  45. 


1 

s^^^ 

— 1 

X 

X 

1 

X 

M 

X 

2 

^^ 

X 

^ 

X 

3 

X 

X 

^s= 

1 

m 

■ 

X 

2 

=^ 

X 

g^^ 

X 

3              t 

12 

10 

8 

6 

4 

2 

11 

9 

7 

5 

3 

1 

5^ 


FOUR  LEAF  TWEEL. 

Fi2.  46. 


X 

1 

P^^ 

X 

2 

X 

^ 

3 

■ 

X 

4 

X 

^=! 

1 

^ 

X 

2 

X 

^ 

3 

X 

4 

8 

6 

4 

2 

7 

5 

3 

1 

n 


«  5 


In  these  plans  the  crosses  X  represent  sinking  cords,  and  the 
black  squares  raising  cords. 

In  weaving  these  shawls  two  picks  of  blue  and  two  of  scarlet 
weft  are  thrown  in  alternately,  the  two  former  on  the  fore  warp,  and 
the  two  latter  on  the  back  warp. 

16 


122 


THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 


VELVETS. 

This  species  of  manufacture  having  never  been  introduced  into 
America,  lohere  corisequently  it  can  he  hut  little  knoivn,  some  ac- 
count of  it  will  not,  perhaps,  be  uninteresting  to  the  reader. 

In  these,  as  in  some  other  branches  of  fancy  weaving,  consider- 
able ingenuity  is  displayed  in  the  production  of  patterns,  which  in 
general  exhibit  a  variety  of  flushing  or  floating  peculiar  to  them- 
selves. This  will  be  obvious  from  a  perusal  of  the  specimens  sub- 
joined to  these  descriptions.  The  ground,  or  back,  as  it  is  generally 
termed,  is  sometimes  plain,  and  sometimes  tweeled.  In  the  former 
case  it  is  called  a  tabby  or  plain  back,  and  in  the  latter,  a  jean  or 
Genoa  back,  and  the  jeans  are  single  or  double,  according  as  they 
are  v/oven  in  a  three  or  four  leaf  tweel  mounting.  The  flushing, 
Avliich  is  afterwards  cut  up  to  form  the  ridges  or  the  pile,  is  thrown 
in  and  interwoven  with  the  ground  at  various  intervals,  and  upon 
this  depends  all  the  diversity  of  patterns  which  we  see  in  these  fabrics. 
A  few  examples  will  illustrate  these  observations.     Fig.  47  is  a 

PLAIN  OR  TABBY-BACK  VELVET.* 

Fiff.  47. 


H 6 4 

6    4     2    3     1 
5 


If  we  examine  this  plan  we  Avill  find  that  the  treadle  marked  1, 
or  the  first  in  the  order  of  treading,  will  raise  all  the  odd  threads  1, 
3.  5,  in  the  draught,  and  the  treadle  marked  4  will  raise  all  the 
even  ones ;  consequently,  these  two  treadles  wrought  alternately 
will  produce  plain  cloth,  or  in  other  words,  they  will  work  the 
ground  or  back.  The  other  three  treadles  are  for  the  flushing.  By 
tracing  over  the  treading  of  this  figure,  it  will  be  found,  that  there 
are  two  picks  of  the  flushing  thrown  in  for  each  pick  of  the 
ground,  which  are  marked  2,  3,  5,  6,  in  the  succession  of  treading ; 
the  treadle  6,  being  the  same  as  3,  is  added  merely  to  keep  the  treads 
alternate  when  both  feet  are  employed  on  the  treadles. 

The  following  plan,  Pig  48,  is  an  example  of  a 

*  When  figures  are  to  be  formed  on  velvets,  agreeably  to  any  particular 
pattern,  recourse  must  be  had  to  the  Jacquard,  or  draw  loom.  See  Gil- 
roy'e  loom  mountings. 


VELVETS. 


123 


SIMPLE  JEAN  BLACK  VELVET  CORD. 


Fig.  48. 


1^^^^ 

" 

^L                        1                      1 

O 

l-  — i —  j 

1 

3 

^=s 

"'"1 

^- 

— 

4 

b 

6 

8 
12 

6 
14 
10 
13 
16 

4 
7 
13 

2 
5 

3 
11 

1 
9 

In  this  plan  the  treadles  on  which  the  figures  1,  3,  and  6  are 
marked,  are  for  weaving-  the  back,  it  being  the  single  jean,  or  three 
leaf  tweel ;  but  as  each  pick  of  the  flushing  weft  floats  over  five 
threads  of  warp,  and  is  only  interwoven  with  the  sixth,  two  sets  of 
tweeling  leaves  are  necessary  in  order  to  extend  the  draught  to  that 
range.  In  the  present  example  we  also  find,  that  there  are  ten 
picks  of  flushing  weft  thrown  in  for  six  of  the  back,  and  these  ten 
picks  are  interwoven  with  the  warp  threads  3  and  4  in  the  drauo-ht 
and  the  flushed  space  afterwards  cut  up  by  tlie  plough  or  lance. 


PLUSH  VELVET. 

Plush  velvet,  or  shag,  is  woven  on  a  principle  something  different 
from  any  of  the  preceding  fabrics.  It  consists  of  two  warps,  one 
caUed  the  main  warp  or  ground,  which  is  commonly  made  of  hard 
silk,  and  the  other  the  pile  warp.  These  warps  are  beamed  on 
separate  rollers,  the  latter  being  placed  below  the  former. 

When  the  heading  or  end  of  the  piece  is  woven,  the  weaver 
raises  the  pile  warp,  which  is  drawn  on  a  separate  leaf  from  the 
ground,  and  into  this  shed  he  introduces  a  wire  which  is  longer 
than  the  breadth  of  the  cloth  ;  a  few  picks  of  the  ground  are  woven 
(generally  two)  and  another  wire  introduced,  and  so  on  with  a  third 
wire.  In  each  of  these  wires  is  a  groove,  along  which  the  weaver 
runs  the  point  of  a  sharp  instrument  called  a  trivet,  which  cuts  the 
pile,  and  relieves  the  wires  in  succession,  and  the  operation  is  re- 
peated till  the  piece  is  finished.  The  pile  Avarp  is  commonly  made 
of  softer  silk  than  the  main  warp,  or  of  a  fine  kind  of  goat's  hair, 
and  the  surface  of  the  shag  is  afterwards  cut  evenly  and  smooth 
with  a  pair  of  shears,  or  a  revolving  spiral  knife.  On  this  principle 
is  woven  that  fabric  of  which  hats  are  made. 


SECTION  FOURTH. 


WEAVING  CROSSED  WARPS. 

The  species  of  ornamental  weaving  which  we  have  now  to  in- 
vestigate, is  exclusively  adapted  to  the  slightest  and  most  flimsy 
textures. 

Like  the  other  branches  of  the  art,  we  derived  our  first  know- 
ledge of  cross  weaving  from  the  East ;  but,  it  certainly  has  been 
much  improved,  and  a  considerable  variety  of  nets  have  been  added, 
by  the  invention  and  ingenuity  of  European  weavers.* 

*  Of  course  we  include  amongst  these  ingenious  men,  our  very  learned 
brother  weaver,  Dr.  Ure  of  London,  a  man  wlio  has  not  only  studied  the  man- 
ufacture of  "  textile  fabrics'''  to  perfection,  in  all  its  bearings,  but  who  also, 
we  doubt  not,  is  well  acquainted  with  "Mason  on  Self-Knowledge." 

We  have  observed  one  fact,  however,  which  is  not  very  honorable  to  this 
weaving  son  of  Galen.  Surely  it  could  not  have  diminished  the  Doctor's 
fame,  although  he  had  given  to  the  public  the  names  of  those  authors,  from 
whose  books  he  extracted  whatever  little  information  he  furnishes  to  the  igno- 
rant, particularly  upon  weaving.  He  does  not  even  allude  to  the  work  of  the 
late  Mr.  John  Duncan  of  Glasgow,  from  which  he  has  taken  most  of  the  ob- 
servations on  weaving,  contained  in  the  second  volume  of  his  "  Cotton  Manu- 
factures," commencing  at  page  264.  We  refer  the  reader  to  Duncan's  trea- 
tise, which  was  published  at  Glasgow,  in  the  year  1807.  Nearly  all  the  rest 
of  the  Doctor's  remarks  on  weaving,  he  has  adapted  from  Murphy's  bed-quilt 
book,  which  he  (the  Dr.)  calls  "-a  most  luminous  xcork.''''  We  suppose  that 
this  puffentitled  him  to  copy  indiscriminately  from  Father  Murphy,  who  could 
be  no  Irishman,  unless  he  made  some  sacrifice  in  return  for  such  blarney. 

On  another  occasion,  the  worthy  Doctor  says,  that  Sharp,  Roberts  &  Co., 
are  "the  greatest  power  loom  builders  in  the  world,  without  exception,"  and 
that  ^^  i\\eiT  patent  loom  is  the  best  in  use."  These  sweeping  assertions,  how- 
ever, may  be  accounted  for,  when  we  know,  that  these  mechanics  furnished 
the  Dr.  with  drawings  and  specifications  of  their  celebrated  loom.,  no  doubt 
expecting  that  he  would  give  it  a  first  rate  notice.  But  we  in  this  country, 
and  every  experienced  weaver  in  England  know,  that  the  power  looms  of 
Messrs.  Sharp,  Roberts  &  Co.  are  far  inferior  to  many  others,  as  we  shall 
show  in  the  course  of  this  work,  and  any  practical  weaver  who  has  conversed 
with  these  makers  upon  the  subject,  miust  acknowledge  that  they  are  entirely 
ignorant  of  the  real  principles  of  weaving.  But  at  present,  with  regard  to 
the  Doctor,  we  shall 

"  No  further  seek  his  merits  to  disclose, 
Or  draw  his  frailUes  from  their  dread  abode." 


CROSS    WEAVING. 


125 


The  first  branch  of  cross  weavmg,  and  of  which  all  the  others 
are  only  varieties,  is 

COMMON  GAUZE. 

In  all  the  branches  of  weaving  which  we  have  hitherto  con- 
sidered, the  threads  of  the  warp,  whether  raised  or  sunk,  alternately, 
or  at  intervals,  remain  always  parallel  to  each  other,  and  without 
crossing.  But  in  gauze  weaving,  the  two  threads  of  warp  which 
pass  between  the  same  dents  of  the  reed,  are  crossed  over  each 
other,  and  twined  like  a  cord  at  every  tread.  They  are  twined  to 
the  right  and  to  the  left,  alternately,  and  each  pick  of  weft  pre- 
serves the  twine  which  the  warp  has  received.  To  produce  this 
effect,  it  is  only  necessary  that  the  warp  should  really  be  crossed  at 
every  second  pick,  for  its  return  from  the  crossed  to  the  open  or 
parallel  state  gives  the  reversed  crossing. 

A  representation  of  a  mounting  peculiar  to  gauze  weaving  will 
be  found  in  Fig.  49,  and  a  section  of  the  web  is  shown  under  the 
same  figure  at  A.* 

GAUZE  MOUNTING. 

Fig.  49. 
Open  Shed. 


St«™Jo«l  H'l 


Fig.  49  represents  two  threads  of  warp  opened  to  form  the  shed, 
where  the  warp  is  not  crossed,  and  Fig.  50, 


126 


THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 


Fig.  50. 
Crossed  Shed. 


i]l  Standard  N:L 


SUttdari,  iVLS, 


the  shed  where  it  is  crossed.  The  mounting  of  a  gauze  loom  con- 
sists of  four  leaves,  constructed  like  common  clasped  headles,  and 
of  two  half  leaves.  The  leaves  are  raised  and  sunk,  by  means  of 
top  levers  or  coupers,  and  marches,  exactly  in  the  same  way  as  in 
most  other  ornamental  looms.  The  opened  shed  of  the  gauze  is 
formed  by  the  leaves  3  and  4,  (see  Fig.  49)  the  cross  shed  by  the 
leaves  1  and  2,  and  by  the  half  leaves.  The  leaves  1  and  2  are 
called  standards,  and  the  half  leaves  pass  through  thera,  as  is  re- 
presented more  clearly  in  Figs.  51  and  52. 

Fig.  51.  Fig,  52. 


It  is  necessary  to  observe,  that  in  order  to  produce  the  twine  or 
gauze  twistj  as  represented  at  A*  under  Fig.  49,  in  forming  the 


CROSS    WEAVING. 


127 


sheds,  the  threads  do  not  rise  and  fall  alternately,  as  in  plain  weav- 
ing, nor  at  intervals  as  in  tweeling.  In  both  sheds  the  thread  A  is 
always  raised  and  the  thread  B  sunk  ;  but  in  the  open  shed,  Fig.  49, 
the  threads  are  not  crossed,  and  in  the  cross  shed,  Fig.  50,  they  are. 
By  examining  these  two  figures  (49  and  50,)  the  way  of  drawing 
the  warp  through  the  headles  will  become  apparent,  and  this  is  an 
important  part  of  every  branch  of  cross  weaving.  The  thread  A  is 
drawn  through  the  third  leaf,  but  as  it  always  rises,  it  is  not  taken 
through  the  clasp,  or  eye,  of  the  headle,  but  above  it,  through  what 
the  weavers  usually  call  the  upper  doup,  as  at,  X'^  Fig.  49.  In 
like  manner  the  thread  B,  which  always  sinks,  is  drawn  through 
the  under  doup  of  the  fourth  leaf  as  at  Y^  Figs.  49  and  50. 
When  this  has  been  done,  the  thread  A  is  crossed  under  the  thread 
B,  as  will  appear  more  plainly  in  Fig.  53, 

Fig.  53. 


which  is  a  horizontal  or  ground  plan.  After  being  drawn  through 
these  two  leaves,  which  are  generally  called  the  back  mounting,  it 
only  remains  to  cross  and  draw  the  warp  through  the  fore  mount- 
ing. Of  the  half  leaves,  one  is  hung  from  above,  and  one  rises 
from  below.  The  one  hung  from  above  passes  through  the  lower 
doup  of  the  leaf  or  standard  2,  and  that  from  below  through  the  up- 
per doup  of  the  standard  1.  This  will  appear  very  plain  in  Fig. 
51.  Through  the  under  half  leaf  connected  with  the  standard  1, 
the  thread  A  is  drawn,  (see  Fig.  49)  and  through  the  upper  half 
leaf  connected  with  the  standard  2,  the  thread  B  passes,  as  in  Fig. 
49.  In  Figs.  49  and  50,  the  shaft  of  the  upper  half  B%  appears  as 
hung  between  the  standards  1  and  2,  but  this  is  not  the  usual  prac- 
tice ;  for  it  is  found  more  convenient  to  place  the  two  standards  to- 


128  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

gether,  the  under  half  leaf,  A%  in  front  of  the  standard  1,  and  the 
upper  half,  B%  behind  the  standard  2,  as  in  Figs.  51  and  52.  By 
means  of  the  half  leaves  the  alternate  crossing  of  the  warp  is 
effected  ;  for  in  the  open  shed  (Fig.  49,)  the  half  leaves  work  in  an 
opposite  direction  to  the  standards,  and  leave  room  for  the  warp  to 
rise  and  sink  in  the  space  between  the  standards,  while  in  the  cross 
shed  (Fig.  50)  the  half  leaves  rise  and  sink  with  their  respective 
standards,  and  force  one  thread  of  warp  across  the  other.  Thus, 
when  the  warp  is  direct,  the  half  leaves  are  crossed,  and  when  the 
mounting  is  direct,  the  warp  is  crossed.  This  will  plainly  appear 
by  carefully  tracing  the  threads  A  and  B  in  Figs.  49  and  50,  and 
also  in  Figs.  51  and  52,  where  sections  of  the  threads  are  represented 
by  round  dots,  thus  (•.)  In  Fig.  51  the  half  leaves  and  standards 
are  crossed  as  in  Fig.  49.  and  in  Fig.  52  the  standard  1  is  sunk  and 
the  standard  2  raised ;  the  mounting  will  be  direct  and  the  warp 
crossed,  as  in  Fig.  50. 

To  render  the  mode  of  mounting  a  gauze  loom  as  plain  as  possible, 
we  shall  enter  into  a  more  detailed  account  of  the  mounting  than 
appears  necessary  in  those  kinds  of  weaving  where  the  horizontal 
plans  of  the  draught  and  cording  have  been  long  practised  and  un- 
derstood by  professional  men.  The  novelty  of  the  subject,  and  iis^ 
evident  utility,  should  we  succeed  in  our  explanation,  will,  we  hope, 
screen  us  from  the  charge  of  unnecessary  prolixity. 

It  has  been  already  stated,  thai  the  gauze  mounting  consists  of 
two  back  leaves,  two  standards,  and  two  half  leaves.  These  are 
moved  by  two  treadles.  The  intermediate  levers  are  five  top  levers 
or  coupers,  five  long,  and  five  short  marches.  Tracing  the  headles 
in  regular  succession  from  the  front,  the  first  is  the  under  half  leaf, 
A%  the  second  the  front  standard  1,  the  third  the  second  standard 
2,  the  fourth  the  upper  half  leaf,  B%  the  fifth  the  first  back  leaf  3, 
and  the  sixth  the  second  back  leaf  4  (see  Fig.  49.)  The  two  back 
leaves  and  the  two  standards  are  raised,  or  sunk,  as  the  case  may 
require,  by  connecting  cords  with  the  marches  and  treadles,  as  in 
other  looms.  The  half  leaves  have  no  connection  with  any  treadle, 
but  are  lifted,  and  sunk  by  the  warp,  in  the  open  shed  Fig.  49  ; 
and  they  are  kept  tight  by  weights  in  the  cross  shed  50.  These 
weights  must,  therefore,  operate  upon  the  half  leaves  in  the  cross 
shed,  and  must  be  relieved  in  the  open. 

It  wiU  be  proper  to  trace  the  connections  of  the  leaves  with  the 
coupers  and  marches  in  the  first  place,  and  then  to  explain  the  way 
in  which  the  weights  are  apphed  to  operate  upon  the  half  leaves : 


CROSS    WEAVING. 
Fig.  54. 


129 


1st.  The  lower  half  leaf,  A,  (see  Fig.  54,)  is  attached  by  a 
cord  below  to  the  first  short  march :  it  has  no  connection  above. 
2d.  The  first  standard  is  attached  by  oblique  cords  W  to  the 
first  couper  above ;  the  couper,  to  the  first  long-  march ;  the 
standard  is  connected  below  with  the  second  short  march.  3d. 
The  second  standard,  to  the  second  couper  above  ;  the  couper,  to 
the  second  long  march  ;  the  standard,  to  the  third  short  march 
below.  4th.  The  upper  half  leaf,  B,  to  the  third  couper  above  ;  the 
couper,  to  the  third  long  march :  no  connection  below.  5th.  The 
first  back  leaf  3,  to  the  fourth  couper  above ;  the  couper,  to  the 
fourth  long  march  ;  the  leaf  1  to  the  fourth  short  march  below. 
6th.  The  second  back  leaf,  to  the  fifth  couper  above  ;  the  couper, 
to  the  fifth  long  march  ;  the  leaf,  to  the  fifth  short  march  below. 

These  connections  being  formed,  it  only  remains  to  apply  the 

17 


130  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

weights  to  their  respective  marches,  and  to  connect  the  otJier 
marclies  with  the  treadles.  The  mode  of  applying^  the  weights 
will  appear  in  Fig.  54.  This  figure  is  a  transverse  section  of  the 
from  part  of  the  mounting  of  a  whij)  net.  of  which  it  will  be 
necessary  to  treat  afterwards.  In  the  mean  time,  as  the  cording  of 
a  common  gauze  is  exactly  the  same  as  that  of  a  whip  net.  it  will 
serve  to  illustrate  that  part  of  the  mounting. 

The  lower  leaf,  A%  (as  seen  in  Fig.  49.)  is  connected  with  the 
first  short  march.     (See  Fig.  54.) 

TJie  upper  half  leaf.  B,  with  the  third  couper  above,  and  from 
thence  with  the  third  long  march.     (See  Fig.  54.) 

The  application  of  the  weights  is  therefore  as  follows  : 

From  the  first  short  march  two  cords  descend,  one  passing  on 
either  side  of  the  first  long  march,  and  from  these  cords  the  Aveight 
is  suspended.  Above  the  long  march  the  cords  are  attached  to 
each  end  of  a  piece  of  wood,  Z.  (see  Fig.  54.)  generally  a  piece 
sawed  or  cut  from  a  common  spool,  by  which  they  are  kept  asun- 
der to  prevent  them  from  rubbing  on  the  long  march  which  works 
between  them.  Another  piece  of  the  same  kind,  Y.  is  fixed  below, 
and  from  this  the  other  weight  is  suspended.  The  same  appara- 
tus is  applied  to  the  third  short  march,  and  passes  upon  both  sides 
of  the  third  long  march,  for  the  upper  half  leaf 

"When  the  open  shed  is  made,  the  first  standard  is  pulled  down ; 
this  raises  the  first  long  march,  which  consequently  lifts  the  weight, 
and  allows  the  under  half  leaf,  A%  (see  Fig.  49,)  to  rise  ;  at  the 
same  time  time  the  second  standard  is  raised  ;  this,  of  course,  raises 
the  third  short  march,  and  relieves  the  pressure  of  the  weight  from 
the  third  long  march  :  the  upper  half  leaf,  B',  is  thus  allowed  to 
sink.  In  forming  this  shed,  the  standards  and  half  leaves  merely 
yield  to  the  warp,  for  the  raising  and  sinking  are  entirely  produced 
by  the  back  leaves  (marked  3  and  4,  Fig.  49.) 

From  these  explanations,  and  from  a  careful  examination  of  the 
Figs.  49,  50,  51,  and  52.  the  general  principle  of  weaving  gauze 
may  be  pretty  well  understood. 

The  connections  with  the  treadles  wiU  be  found  by  examining 
Fig.  53,  which  is  a  horizontal  plan,  similar  to  those  employed  to  il- 
lustrate other  branches  of  wea\ang,  particularly  dafnask,  (of  which 
we  shall  treat  in  its  proper  place.)  The  warp  thread  A.  which  is 
drawn  through  the  upper  doup  of  the  first  back  leaf  3,  (see  Fig.  53,) 
is  distinguished  by  a  black  oblong  mark,  on  the  left  side  of  the 
thread.  The  thread  B.  which  is  drawn  through  the  under  doup 
of  the  leaf  4,  is  distinguished  by  a  white  oblong  mark,  on  the  right 


CROSS    WEAVING.  131 

side  of  the  thread.  The  draught  of  the  warp  thread  A  through  the 
upper  half  leaf,  b,  is  also  denoted  by  a  white  oblong  mark  on  the 
right  side  of  the  thread ;  and  that  through  the  front  half  leaf,  a,  by 
a  black  oblong  mark  on  the  left  of  the  thread  B.  The  connections 
for  raising  the  back  leaves  and  standards  are  indicated  by  black 
squares ;  and  those  for  sinking  them,  by  white  squares  or  blanks,  all 
of  which  will  be  evident  by  examining  the  extreme  left  of  the  plan 
(Fig.  53.)  Where  no  connection  from  the  marches  to  the  treadles 
is  necessary,  the  mark  X  is  used.  As  the  half  leaves  are  raised  and 
sunk  by  the  warp,  no  mark  is  used  for  the  cording  of  them.  The 
open  shed  is  formed  by  pressing  down  the  treadle  1,  the  cross  shed 
by  the  treadle  2 ;  the  treadle  3  merely  reverses  the  motion  of  the 
treadle  2.  to  enable  the  weaver  to  work  plain  cloth  as  well  as  gauze, 
when  he  finds  it  convenient.  The  alternate  motion  necessary  for 
plain  cloth,  is  entirely  performed  by  the  standards  and  half  leaves, 
the  back  leaves  remaining  stationary  in  this,  as  well  as  in  the  cross 
shed.  But  in  this  shed  it  is  necessar}'^  to  connect  the  marches  with 
the  plain  treadle,  to  keep  the  half  leaves  tight  when  the  weights  are 
raised,  the  fore  mounting  in  the  plain  shed  being  exactly  in  the 
same  situation  as  in  the  open  shed. 

From  the  descriptions  now  given  of  gauze  weaving,  we  hope  that 
any  weaver  of  even  common  perception,  who  will  study  them  with 
care  and  attention,  will  find  little  difficulty  in  mounting  a  gauze 
loom /or  himself. 

When  the  principle  of  gauze  weaving  is  thoroughly  understood, 
its  application  to  the  weaving  of  fancy  nets  may  be  easily  acquired. 
Many  varieties  of  net  work  are  used,  but  a  few  which  form  the 
groundwork  of  all  the  rest,  will  be  sufficient  to  elucidate  the  general 
principle  ;  and,  to  use  the  words  of  a  certain  learned  doctor  of  book- 
making  notoriety,  "  the  limits  to  which  it  is  necessary  to  restrict  this 
Work,  a\t11  not  admit  of  more  particular  details."* 

WHIP  NET. 

This  net  takes  its  name  from  the  warp  being  wholly  of  whip, 
without  any  other  ground.  The  term  whip  is  used  by  weavers  to 
denote  a  species  of  warp  rolled  upon  a  separate  beam  to  form  fancy 
patterns.     In  this  net  the  whole  warp  is  of  this  description  ;  and, 

*  The  principal  reason  why  we  are  thus  restricted  is,  that  we  have  already 
extracted  from  the  works  of  others  all  the  valuable  or  "  luminous'^  informa- 
tion which  they  contained  about  the  manufacture  of  "  textile  fabrics^  See 
"  Ure's  Dictionary,"  and  "  History  of  the  Cotton  manufactures." 


132 


THE    ART    OF   WEAVING. 


therefore,  only  one  beam  or  roll  is  required.  The  mounting  of  the 
whip  net,  hke  that  of  the  common  gauze,  as  already  described,  (see 
Figs.  49  and  50,)  consists  of  two  back  leaves,  two  standards,  and 
two  head  lams  or  half  leaves.  The  two  back  leaves  are  placed  be- 
hind the  reed  in  the  usual  way,  and  the  bread  lams  with  their 
standards  are  placed  in  front  of  the  lay,  between  the  race  board  and 
the  reed,  as  formerly  mentioned.  But  as  glass  beads  are  frequently 
used  instead  of  eyes  in  the  back  leaves  also,  and  these  mountings 
are  generally  constructed  to  weave  dropped  as  well  as  plain  nets, 
the  back  headles  are  usually  divided  into  four  leaves ;  by  which  the 
friction  is  avoided  that  would  be  occasioned  by  the  beads  being  too 
much  crowded  together. 

Fig.  55. 


is  a  plan  of  the  whip  net  mounting,  with  a  specimen  of  the  cloth 
annexed,  both  when  it  is  woven  plain,  and  when  it  is  dropped.  A 
and  B  are  the  two  back  leaves,  each  of  which  being  divided  into 
the  other  two  parts  marked  1  and  2  ;  C  and  D  are  the  standards ; 
and  1  and  2,  the  half  leaves  or  bead  lams,  corresponding  with  the 
doups  and  standards  of  the  full  gauze  mounting,  (see  Figs.  49  and 
50.)  The  reed,  which  shows  also  the  position  of  the  lay,  is  here 
seen  between  the  back  and  front  mountings.  Let  the  dots  on  the 
leaves  C  and  D  represent  sections  of  the  twine  of  which  the  headles 


CROSS    WEAVING. 


133 


are  made,  and  they  will  point  out  the  position  of  the  standards. 
The  upper  bead  lams  with  their  beads,  through  which  the  whip 
threads  are  drawn,  will  then  appear  as  passing  through  the  headles 
or  standards  on  the  leaf  C,  the  beads  being  in  front  at  v  ;  and  the 
under  bead  lams  will  be  seen  as  if  rising  through  their  standards 
on  the  leaf  D,  crossing  below  the  others  towards  the  front  at  x. 
The  marks  on  the  treadles  will  point  out  the  raising  and  sinking 
cords,  as  in  the  plain  gauze. 

But  the  manner  in  which  the  bead  lams  cross  in  front  of  the 
standards  will  appear  to  more  advantage  in  Fig.  56. 

Fig.  56. 


Here  the  upper  bead  lam  shaft  is  marked  1,  and  its  standard  C  ; 
the  under  lam  2,  and  its  standard  D,  as  in  Fig.  55.  When  the  open 
shed  is  formed,  the  bead  lams  assume  the  position  represented  in  Fig. 
56  at  X,  and  v,  that  is,  the  bead  lam  x,  on  the  shaft  2,  crosses  in 
front  of  a  standard  on  the  shaft  C,  and  rises  on  the  left  of  the  bead 
lam  V,  while  the  bead  lam  v,  on  the  shaft  1,  crosses  in  front  of  a 
standard  on  the  shaft  D,  and  sinks  on  the  right  of  x  :  the  threads 
passing  through  these  two  beads,  being  on  the  same  interval  of  the 
reed,  this  forms  the  open  shed ;  which  is  pointed  out  by  the  pick 
2  in  Fig.  55.  Again,  in  forming  the  cross  shed,  the  bead  v,  is 
drawn  close  to  its  standard  at  ?<,  and  the  bead  x,  is  drawn  back  to 
its  standard  at  a,  (see  Fig.  56,)  while  the  standard  D  is  raised,  and 
C  sunk,  as  in  the  cross  shed  of  the  common  gauze,  (this  shed  is 
marked  by  the  pick  1  in  Fig.  55,)  and  thus  the  crossings  of  the 
whip  are  effected. 


134 


THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 


It  was  formerl)^  observed  that  the  back  and  front  mountings  of 
the  gauze  are  placed  at  about  three  and  a  half  or  four  inches  apart, 
that  the  warp  may  have  sufficient  room  to  twist  between  them  in 
opening  the  cross  shed.  In  nets,  however,  the  corresponding  cross- 
ing of  the  whip  takes  place  in  front  of  the  standards,  where  it  is 
forced  nearly  into  a  vertical  position.  It  is  therefore  necessary  that 
the  whip  should  be  slackened  more  in  the  cross  shed  than  any  other 
kind  of  warp,  so  as  to  yield  freely  to  the  pressure  of  the  cross  treadles ; 
otherwise  it  would  be  almost  impossible  to  obtain  a  shed.  The 
method  usually  employed  for  this  purpose,  both  for  this  and  the 
other  nets,  is  as  follows  :  a  o,  Fig.  57, 

Fijr.  57. 


•2^1 


U 


is  a  couper  suspended  from  the  ceiHng  of  the  weaving  room,  or  from 
the  top  of  the  loom,  from  the  end  a,  of  which  a  cord  descends  to 
the  end  of  a  long  march  n,  which  is  again  connected  to  the  cross 
treadle  t.  To  the  other  end  o,  of  the  lever  or  couper  is  tied  the  cord 
i,  which  after  taking  two  turns  round  the  whip  roll  x,  suspends  the 
pace  weight  7i.  Sometimes  a  thong  or  strap  of  leather  is  used  for 
that  part  which  goes  round  the  roll,  and  a  little  chalk  rubbed  upon 
it  to  prevent  it  from  slipping.  Now,  it  is  plain  that  when  the  cross 
1,  is  pressed  down,  it  sinks  the  long  march  n,  and  consequently  the 
end  a,  of  the  couper.  by  which  tlie  other  end  o,  will  be  raised,  and 
turn  the  roll  round  on  its  axis  by  the  cord  i.  By  this  means  the 
whip  is  slackened,  and  a  greater  or  smaller  range  is  given  to  it,  to 
suit  any  given  pattern,  merely  by  shifting  the  fulcrum  or  centre  of 
motion  farther  from,  or  nearer  to  the  end  o,  of  the  couper. 


CROSS    WEAVING.  136 

There  is  another  circumstance  which  requires  particular  attention 
in  the  manufacture  of  nets,  that  does  not  occur  in  gauze.  In  the 
gauze  mounting  the  two  threads  of  each  dent  of  the  reed  rise  and 
sink  between  their  respective  standards  and  in  the  cross  shed  the 
doups  or  half  leaves  are  drawn  tight  by  the  weights,  so  as  to  pass 
each  other  without  any  friction  ;  especially  if  the  web  be  properly 
mounted.  In  the  whip  net,  however,  see  Fig.  56,  the  bead  lams 
project  beyond  their  opposite  standards  ;  and,  therefore,  were  the 
weights  allowed  to  act  upon  them  with  their  whole  force,  they  would 
be  drawn  so  tight  or  close  to  their  standards,  as  to  prevent  the  beads 
from  tumbling,  as  it  is  termed ;  or  the  cross  shed  from  opening 
freely.  On  the  other  hand,  were  the  bead  lams  too  slack,  the  fric- 
tion occasioned  by  the  tumbling  of  the  beads  would  soon  prove  de- 
structive to  the  standards,  besides  being  hable  to  get  frequently  en- 
tangled among  the  warp.  To  prevent  both  of  these  inconveniences, 
each  bead  lam  shaft  is  connected  at  each  end  to  the  opposite  shaft 
of  its  respective  standard,  by  a  piece  of  twine  called  a  bridle,  as  re- 
presented at,  m,,  n,  in  Fig.  56.  By  means  of  these  bridles  the 
weaver  can  temper  the  front  mounting  as  he  pleases,  as  they  are 
made  with  snitches,  the  same  as  those  on  the  treadle  cords  of  looms 
for  tweeling.  Sometimes  the  under  bead  lam  shaft  is  bridled  to  the 
end  of  the  couper  of  the  front  standard,  by  which  method  the  bridles 
are  kept  clear  of  the  shuttle.  In  general  the  bead  lams  project 
through  their  standards,  when  the  mounting  is  stationary,  about  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  ;  but  every  weaver  tempers  his  bridles  to  such  a 
degree  of  tension  as  may  best  suit  the  state  of  his  mounting. 

It  may  be  further  observed  of  nets  in  general,  that  the  weaving 
motions  should  be  very  slow,  uniform,  and  steady.  The  sheds  are 
opened  by  a  gradual  pressure  of  the  foot  upon  the  treadles,  without 
any  sudden  jerks,  which  would  cut  the  whip,  and  in  a  short  time 
ruin  the  mounting.  At  the  same  time,  the  lay  is  worked  with  a 
steady  motion,  while  the  shed  is  opening.  The  shuttle  is  driven 
through  the  sheds  with  equal  caution,  lest  it  should  dip  or  get  en- 
tangled among  the  bead  lams  or  standards.  This,  however,  is  in 
a  great  measure  prevented  by  pins  of  brass  wire  driven  into  the  lay, 
immediately  behind  the  race  board,  along  which  the  shuttle  runs, 
instead  of  the  reed  as  in  other  kinds  of  weaving.  After  the  pick 
has  been  thrown  into  the  shed,  the  treadle  is  relieved  in  the  same 
gentle  way,  by  which  the  weights  have  sufficient  time  to  act  upon 
the  bead  lams,  and  keep  them  in  a  uniform  degree  of  tension,  while 
the  lay  is  brought  forward  with  the  same  steady  motion  to  the  face 
of  the  cloth. 


136  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

It  is  also  of  the  greatest  importance  that  all  the  cordings  be  pro- 
perly tempered  ;  which,  with  due  attention,  will  be  easily  effected 
by  means  of  the  snitch  knot,*  which  must  be  well  known  to  every 
practical  weaver. 

As  the  crossing  of  the  whip  in  net  weaving  necessarily  produces 
considerable  friction,  a  greater  power  is  requisite  to  be  exerted  on 
the  cross  treadle  than  in  any  other  species  of  Hght  fabrics  :  for  this 
reason,  the  treadles  are  placed  below  the  warp  roll,  and  the  weaver 
works  on  the  ends  towards  him,  by  which  he  gains  the  whole  of 
the  lever  power. 

SPIDER  AND  MAIL  NETS. 

These  two  nets  are  woven  in  the  same  mounting,  and  have  the 
same  relation  to  each  other  as  the  gauze  and  lino. 

The  mounting  is  merely  that  of  the  common  gauze,  which  is 
here  called  the  ground,  combined  ^vith  that  of  the  whip  net,  with 
which  the  ground  is  interwoven. 

The  gauze  part  of  the  mounting,  and  the  back  leaves  of  the  net, 
are  placed  behind  the  reed  ;  and  the  two  bead  lams  and  their  stand- 
ards are  before  it,  as  in  tlie  preceding  mounting,  (Fig.  55.)  Either 
of  the  methods  for  reducing  the  number  of  leaves,  formerly  ex- 
plained, may  be  adopted  for  the  ground  ;  although  the  full  mount- 
ing is  generally  preferred  :  for,  with  the  full  mounting  only  two 
warp  rolls  are  necessary,  one  for  the  ground  and  the  other  for  the 
whip,  while  either  of  the  former  methods  require  two  for  the  ground, 
that  one-half  of  the  warp  may  yield  a  little  more  than  the  other 
while  the  cross  shed  is  forming. 

The  Spider  net  is  woven  with  two  treadles  which  produce  the 
texture  of  plain  gauze,  interwoven  with  the  whip :  the  mail  net  re- 
quires only  the  addition  of  a  plain  treadle  on  which  every  fourth 
pick  of  weft  is  thrown,  as  in  Fig.  58. 

*  This  is  merely  a  modification  of  the  slip  knot,  known  to  Irishmen  under 
the  name  of  G'Doherty's,  or  the  hangman's  noose. 


CROSS    WEAVING. 

SPIDER  NET. 

Fig.  58. 


137 


is  a  plan  of  this  mounting,  with  specimens  of  the  varieties  it  pro- 
duces, in  which  the  different  crossings  of  the  ground  and  whip  may- 
be easily  traced.  The  back  leaves  of  the  gauze  are  marked  1  and 
2,  the  standards  A  and  B,  and  the  doups,  a  and  c.  The  back 
leaves  of  the  net  are  marked  3  and  4,  and  these  are  all  behind  the 
reed  as  formerly  noticed.  In  the  front,  between  the  race  board  and 
the  reed,  are  placed  the  whip  standards  C  and  D,  with  their  respec- 
tive bead  lams,  v  and  x.  The  position  of  the  whip  standards, 
with  respect  to  the  threads  of  warp,  is  pointed  out  by  dots  on  the 
shafts  C  and  D,  one  on  each  side  of  its  respective  bead  lam ;  these 
lams  appear  in  the  fig.  as  if  a  little  slackened  by  the  open  shed,  and 
crossing  each  other  in  front  of  the  standards,  exhibit  the  whip 
threads  passing  through  the  beads  at,  v  and  x,  (see  Fig.  58.)  The 
crossing  of  the  bead  lams,  when  the  open  shed  is  fully  formed,  will 
appear  to  more  advantage  in  Fig.  56,  the  threads  of  gauze  warp 
being  in  the  position  of  the  letters,  v  and  x. 

By  comparing  this  plan  with  those  of  the  gauze  (Figs.  49  and 
50)  and  whip  net  (Fig.  55)  considered  separately,  the  process  of 
taking  the  warp  through  the  headles  and  tying  up  the  treadles  will 
be  obvious,  and  can  require  no  further  explanation  ;  for  each  of  the 

18 


138  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

mountings  are  tied  to  the  treadles  in  the  same  order  as  if  they  had 
been  mounted  separately. 

It  may  be  necessary  to  observe,  however,  that  when  the  full  gauze 
mounting  is  employed,  as  in  the  present  example,  or  when  the  back 
doup  and  standard  are  omitted,  each  treadle  will  produce  similar 
sheds  in  both  mountings ;  that  is  to  say,  either  both  open  or  both 
cross,  but  when  the  gauze  part  is  mounted  with  the  bead  lam  and 
standard,  it  is  necessary  to  cord  the  treadles  so  as  to  produce  the 
open  shed  of  the  gauze  along  with  the  cross  shed  of  the  whip ; 
otherwise  the  whip  would  not  run  in  between  the  threads  of  gauze 
warp  to  form  the  net  distinctly  as  represented  in  the  specimen. 
(See  Fig.  58.) 

The  apparatus  for  slackening  the  whip  in  the  cross  shed,  as  well 
as  the  bridles  for  preventing  the  bead  lams  from  being  drawn  too 
close  to  their  standards,  are  also  necessary  in  this  mounting,  and 
are  applied  in  the  very  same  manner  as  in  the  whip  net, 

PATENT  NET,  OR  NIGHT  THOUGHT. 

This  net,  like  the  preceding,  consists  of  a  gauze  ground  inter- 
woven with  whip.  Two  sets  of  mounting  are  therefore  requisite, 
one  for  the  ground  and  the  other  for  the  whip  or  net  part ;  but,  as 
this  net  involves  greater  variety  than  any  of  those  already  explained, 
it  requires  four  treadles  to  work  one  set  of  the  pattern.  Either  the 
full  mounting  or  one  of  the  contracted  methods  may  be  employed 
for  the  gauze  part,  and  the  whip  requires  two  back  leaves,  and 
two  bead  lams  and  their  standards.  When  the  full  gauze  mount- 
ing is  employed  three  warp  rolls  are  requisite,  one  for  the  ground 
and  two  for  the  whip.  These  last  are  necessary,  as  one  half  of  the 
whip  is  occasionally  crossed  while  the  other  half  is  straight  and 
parallel,  and  consequently  each  half  must  be  slackened  indepen- 
dently of  the  other.  When  the  gauze  part  is  woven  either  with 
the  bead  lam  shaft,  or  by  omitting  the  upper  doup  and  standard, 
two  rolls  are  also  necessary  for  the  ground,  as  formerly  described. 
Some  add  another  roll  for  the  selvages,  which,  being  woven  plain 
without  any  twist,  do  not  work  up  equally  with  the  other  warp. 
This,  however,  is  commonly  avoided  by  beaming  the  selvages  on 
the  same  roll  Avith  the  ground,  and  suspending  a  small  weight 
to  each  below  the  roll  to  keep  them  moderately  tight,  and  the  slack 
part  is  taken  in  at  the  face  of  the  cloth,  when  necessary,  at  the  end 
of  the  piece. 


CROSS    WEAVING. 


139 


PATENT  NET,  OR  NIGHT  THOUGHT. 

Fiff.  59. 


is  a  plan  of  the  night  thought  mounting,  with  a  specimen  of  the 
cloth,  as  in  the  other  examples.  The  shafts  marked  1  and  2  are 
the  back  leaves  for  the  gauze  part,  the  back  leaves  for  the  whip 
being  marked  3  and  4.  5,  6,  7  and  8  are  the  doups  and  standards 
of  the  ground  mounting,  which  in  this  example  is  a  full  mounting ; 
the  bead  lams  and  their  standard  which  are  before  the  threads  are 
marked,  a,  e,  i,  o,  and  are  placed  exactly  in  the  same  position  as  in 
the  other  mountings  for  net  weaving. 


140 


THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

Fig.  60, 


is  a  front  elevation  of  the  bead  lams  and  their  standards,  represent- 
ing their  position  when  the  open  sheds  are  formed  ;  a,  is  the  shaft 
of  the  upper  bead  lams,  and  o,  that  of  the  under  ones  ;  e,  and  t, 
are  the  back  and  fore  standards  respectively.  In  the  shed  here  ex- 
hibited, which  is  opened  by  the  treadle  marked  4,  (see  Fig.  59) 
both  the  upper  and  under  lams  are  slack,  and  after  crossing  two 
dents  of  gauze  and  one  of  whip,  the  former  are  sunk  and  the  latter 
raised  by  the  whip  which  is  now  acted  upon  entirely  by  the  back 
leaves.  That  is,  the  upper  lams  cross  from  their  standards  at  m,  to 
the  interval  x,  where  they  are  sunk  ;  and  the  under  ones  from  d, 
to  c,  where  they  are  raised  (see  Fig.  60.)  The  treadle  2  (see  Fig. 
59)  draws  both  the  upper  and  under  lams  tight  to  their  standards, 
by  which  the  former  are  sunk  and  the  latter  raised  ;  at  the  same 
time  the  ground  forms  the  open  shed.  In  the  shed  formed  by  trea- 
dle 1,  the  upper  lams  are  tight  and  sunk  by  their  standards,  while 
the  under  ones  are  slack  and  raised  by  the  whip,  the  ground  form- 
ing the  cross  shed.  All  this  will  plainly  appear  by  an  attentive  pe- 
rusal of  the  two  Figs.  59  and  60 

PRINCESS  ROYAL  NET. 

This  net  is  woven  in  a  mounting  the  very  same  as  that  of  Night 
Thought,  but  with  a  small  difference  in  the  order  of  taking  the 
whip  through  the  headles  and  tying  up  the  treadles. 

But  as  these  are  distinctly  marked  on  the  plan  Fig.  61. 


CROSS    WEAVING. 
Fig.  Gl. 


L41 


they  can  require  no  further  explanation.     Fig.  62 

Fiff.  62. 


shows  the  crossing  of  the  bead  lams  in  the  open  shed  in  the  same 
manner  as  in  the  preceding  net. 


142  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 


DROPPED  NETS. 


The  whip  and  mail  nets  are  frequently  ornamented  with  a  va- 
riety of  figures,  which  are  formed  on  the  cloth  merely  by  preventing 
the  crossings  of  certain  portions  of  the  whip,  for  one  or  more  picks 
of  weft,  which  leaves  open  spaces  in  the  ground  larger  than  the 
common  meshes  of  the  net ;  this  may  be  effected  either  by  prevent- 
ing part  of  the  upper  bead  lam  whip  from  sinking,  or  of  the  under 
bead  lam  whip  from  rising,  in  the  open  shed,  by  means  of  additional 
back  leaves  applied  for  that  purpose. 

These  examples,  it  is  presumed,  will  be  sufiicient  to  explain  the 
nature  and  process  of  net  weaving,  and  to  show  that  by  changing 
the  order  of  the  draught,  cording  and  treading,  considerable  variety 
may  be  produced  in  these  fabrics. 


SECTION  FIFTH. 


FIGURED  WEAVING. 


We've  heard  of  labyrinths  and  gordian  knots, 
And  other  things  which  try  your  men  of  skill ; 
But  here  we  for  a  time  shall  turn  our  thoughts 
To  something  even  more  complicated  still. 

Having  described  in  the  preceding  sections  the  elementary  princi- 
ples of  weaving,  and  developed  some  of  their  most  useful  combina- 
tions, with  the  necessary  illustrations  to  make  them  perfectly  under- 
stood, it  now  devolves  upon  us  to  show  how  these  principles  may 
be  extended  beyond  the  scope  of  leaves  of  headles,  by  aid  of  the 
draw  loom, 

DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  DRAW  LOOM. 
Fig.  63. 


is  a  front  elevation  of  the  common  draw  loom.  The  frame  AA  is 
called  the  carriage,  fi-ora  its  use  in  supporting  the  harness  ;  and  rests 
on  the  capes  of  the  loom,  which  are  seen  in  section  at  A'^A^  On 
the  top  of  this  frame  is  fixed  the  pulley  box  E'^  which  contains  the 


144 


THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 


pulleys  over  ■which  the  tail  cords  run  when  any  part  of  the  harness 
is  raised  to  form  a  shed,  or  sheds. 

This  box,  a  hoiizontal  -view  of  which  is  given  m  Fig.  64, 

Fig.  64. 


is  placed  in  a  slanting  position  sufficient  to  aUow  the  tail  cords  BB 
to  sink  m  opening  the  sheds,  without  olistniction  from  the  frame  or 
pulleys  below. 

The  harness  is  composed  of  the  following  parts ;  namely,  the 
neck  t^\*ines,  wliich  extend  from  the  neck  of  the  harness,  as  pomted 
out  by  the  figures  of  reference  1,  2,  3,  4.  5,  6,  7,  8,  9  and  10,  to  the 
knots  at  EE  ;  the  sleepers,*  which  connect  the  neck  twines  with  the 
mails  at  DD  :  the  mails,  which  are  the  substitutes  for  the  eyes  of 
headles,  tlu-ough  which  the  warp  tlireads  are  drawn,  and  of  which 
a  more  distinct  view  will  be  found  in  Fig.  65  ; 

Fig.  65. 


*  The  name  usually  given  to  that  part  of  the  cords  or  mountings  which 
passes  through  the  board  CC,  commencing  at  the  knots  EE,  and  ending  at 
the  mails  DD. 


DRAW    LOOM.  145 

the  t\\dnes,  that  connect  the  mails  and  leads  or  weights  at  XX, 
called  hangers,  to  sink  the  mails  after  they  have  been  raised  to  form 
the  shed  or  sheds. 

CC  is  the  hole  board,*  through  which  the  sleepers  pass  ;  and  this 
regulates  the  distance  of  the  mails  and  the  fineness  of  the  harness. 
The  face  of  this  board  is  represented  in  Fig.  66. 

Fiz.  66. 


A 

in  which  it  will  be  observed  that  the  holes  for  the  harness  twines 
run  m  oblique  hnes,  that  the  mails  may  have  suflftcient  room  to 
stand  directly  opposite  to  their  respective  intervals  of  the  reed,  with- 
out being  too  much  crowded  together.  The  reed  and  harness  board, 
therefore,  must  be  of  the  same  set  or  fineness  ;  or  should  a  harness 
board  of  a  finer  set  than  the  reed  be  at  any  time  employed,  the 
supernumerary  holes  must  be  left  empty  at  regular  intervals  and 
in  complete  rows,  as  in  the  method  followed  by  weavers  in  set- 
ting their  headles.  It  may  be  observed,  however,  that  although 
the  sets  of  reeds  in  America  be  calculated  on  37  inches,  yet  the 
sets  of  the  harness  board  are  comprised  in  36,  so  that  in  37  inches 
of  the  harness  board  there  will  be  the  number  of  dents  contained  in 
one  inch  of  any  given  set  more  than  in  the  same  breadth  of  the  reed. 
As  each  part  or  di\asion  into  which  the  harness  is  tied  begins  always 
with  a  complete  row  of  the  harness  board,  this  addition  is  made  as 
an  allowance  for  any  holes  that  may  be  left  empty  at  the  ends  of 
such  parts  as  are  not  multiples  of  five.  Thus  were  the  harness  to 
be  tied  into  such  parts  as  100,  105,  110,  115,  &c.,  mails,  every  part 
would  exactly  fill  a  certain  number  of  rows  in  the  harness  board 
when  there  were  five  in  each  row :  but  in  a  tie  of  102,  for  instance, 


*  Called  hole  board  from  the  fact  of  its  being  pierced  with  a  great  number 
of  holes  ;  a  clearer  view  of  which  will  be  had  in  Fig.  66.  Scotch  weavers 
often  call  it  by  the  name  of  "  holy  brod  ;"  but  the  words  holy  and  righteoiis 
being  almost  synonymous,  we  think  the  latter  of  these  terms  quite  as  appli- 
cable as  the  former ;  however,  we  shall  excuse  these  broad  Scotchmen,  aa 
they  are,  no  doubt,  a  very  holy  people.  Among  Yorkshiremen,  the  appella- 
tion of  "  cumber  boord"  is  used  for  this  part  of  the  loom,  from  the  circum- 
stance of  its  being  much  encumbered  with  strings,  &c. :  but,  for  our  part,  we 
would  prefer  the  Yankee  name  of  "harness  board.'- 

19 


146  THE    ART    OF   WEAVING. 

there  would  be  three  holes  left  empty  at  the  end  of  each  part ;  which, 
consequently,  would  make  the  harness  considerably  broader  than  the 
reed,  were  it  not  for  the  above  allowance.  It  may  be  further  re- 
marked, that,  although  in  the  present  example  there  are  only  five 
holes  in  each  oblique  row  in  the  board,  which  is  the  number  appro- 
priated to  four  thread  harnesses,  yet  in  dent  and  full  harnesses, 
where  a  greater  number  of  mails  must  necessarily  occupy  the  same 
space,  the  number  of  holes  in  each  row  is  extended  to  ten,  and  in 
French  shawl  looms  even  sometimes  to  thuty-two.*  From  these 
observations  it  will  evidently  appear,  that  two  mails  will  stand  oppo- 
site to  one  interval  of  the  reed  in  a  full  harness  ;  one  in  a  spht  or 
dent  harness  ;  and  in  a  four  thread  harness,  one  mail  will  occupy 
the  space  of  two  dents  or  splits  of  the  reed. 

From  the  tail  at  W  descends  the  simple  cords  F  F,  or  as  they  are 
termed  collectively  the  simple,  down  to  the  floor  at  Z,  where  they 
are  fastened.  It  is  on  this  part  of  the  draw  loom  that  the  pattern  is 
read  on  from  the  design  paper.  The  twines  at  1 1 1  are  termed  the 
lashes,  and  are  necessary  for  separating  the  simples  of  any  shed 
which  is  to  be  opened  from  those  that  remain  stationary  ;  N  N  N 
are  the  heads  to  which  the  lashes  are  attached,  and  are  made  to 
run  or  slide  with  a  noose  on  the  gut  cord  L,  at  pleasure.  The  gut 
cord  commonly  extends  from  the  roof  of  the  shop  to  the  floor,  (as 
shown  in  Fig.  63,)  parallel  to  the  simple.  KK  are  the  bridles, 
which  being  connected  with  the  lashes  at  equal  distances,  draw 
them  down  in  succession  as  they  are  wanted  by  the  draw  boy. 

The  number  of  mails  necessary  to  produce  one  set  of  a  pattern, 
make  what  is  denominated  a  pari,  or  the  tie  of  the  harness  ;  and 
as  every  mail  in  one  part  must  rise  independently  of  the  others, 
each  must  have  its  respective  cord  both  in  the  tail  and  simple  ;  so 
that  the  greater  the  range  of  the  pattern,  the  greater  will  be  the 
number  of  simple  cords.  Hence  it  is  evident,  that  were  a  harness 
to  be  tied  in  one  part  only,  there  Avould  be  a  tail  and  simple  cord 
for  each  mail  in  the  width  of  the  web.  But  as  patterns  of  this  ex- 
tent are  not  very  common,  it  is  usual  to  divide  the  harness  into  such 
a  number  of  parts  as  may  be  most  suitable  to  that  species  of  goods 
on  which  it  is  to  be  employed,  and  these  parts  are  repeated  to  make 
up  the  full  width. 

By  this  means  the  number  of  tail  and  simple  cords,  together  with 

*  Our  friend,  Monsieur  Dioudonnat,  of  No.  12  Rue  St.  Maur,  Paris,  (France) 
generally  pierces  his  harness  boards  with  thirty-two  holes  in  the  row  (in 
breadth.) 


DRAW    LOOM. 


147 


tlie  pulleys,  will  be  diminished  in  propoition  as  the  number  of  parts 
in  a  given  harness  are  increased.  It  is  also  obvious,  that  as  each 
simple  cord  is  connected,  by  means  of  its  tail  cord,  to  a  correspond- 
ing mail  in  each  part,  the  pattern  which  is  produced  will  be  merely 
the  same  group  of  figures,  repeated  as  often  as  there  are  parts  in  the 
harness  or  mounting. 

MOUNTING  THE  LOOM. 

When  a  harness  is  to  be  constructed,  as  it  is  termed,  a  frame, 
such  as  is  represented  in  Fig.  67. 

Fig.  67. 


must  be  procured  ;  and  the  two  upright  sides,  AA  are  fastened  to 
the  inside  of  the  loom,  one  on  each  side,  and  in  the  very  same  posi- 
tion between  the  cloth  and  the  warp  rolls,  which  the  harness  is 
afterwards  to  occupy.  The  cross  bar  of  wood  or  slab  stock  A"  A", 
slides  up  and  down  in  grooves  cut  in  these  side  pieces,  and  may  be 
fixed  with  small  bolts  at  any  given  height,  to  suit  the  position  of 
the  mails  after  the  harness  is  tied.  In  the  upper  edge  of  the  slab 
stock,  which  is  somewhat  rounded,  is  a  groove  into  which  the 
under  ends  of  the  mails  are  inserted  during  the  process  of  mounting 
the  harness. 


14S  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

This  frame  being  thus  adjusted,  the  operator  proceeds  to  hang 
the  leads,  or  connect  them  to  their  respective  mails.  This  is 
effected  b}'  taking  one  end  of  the  harness  twine,  cut  of  the  proper 
length,  through  the  under  hole  of  the  mail,  and  again  through  the 
upper  end  of  the  lead  ;  after  which  both  ends  of  the  twine  are 
stretched  down  below  the  slabstock,  one  on  each  side,  where  they 
are  knotted,  and  the  knot  shpped  down  to  the  top  of  the  lead,  so  as 
to  be  clear  of  the  warp  when  the  sheds  are  opened  ;  the  distance 
between  the  mail  and  the  lead  being  about  nine  inches.  A  more 
durable  method  of  hanging  the  leads,  however,  is  to  take  both 
ends  of  the  twine  through  the  hole  of  the  lead,  and  then  turning 
them  backward,  one  on  each  side,  to  knot  them  together.  These 
twines  or  hangers  are  made  of  flaxen  yarn,  from  three  to  nine  ends 
laid  togetlier.  and  must  be  well  twisted. 

The  harness  leads  are  made  by  cutting  a  piece  of  sheet  lead  into 
long  square  slips,  and  afterwards  di-awing  them  through  circular 
holes  of  different  diameters  in  a  steel  plate,  till  reduced  to  the  re- 
quisite size  ;  after  the  manner  of  drawmg  other  metaUic  wires. 
They  are  afterwards  cut  off  to  the  proper  lengths  :  and  the  weight 
suitable  for  any  harness  is  estmiated  by  the  number  of  these  pieces 
in  a  pound.  Thus,  for  the  borders  of  shawls  in  the  cotton  manu- 
facture the  leads  are  ftom  fourteen  to  sixteen  mches  long,  and  those 
for  the  bosom  or  body  from  eight  to  ten.  The  weight  of  leads  for  a 
four  thread  liarness  will  be  about  foiu-teen  in  the  pound  for  the 
borders,  if  intended  for  shawls  :  and  from  forty-five  to  fifty-five  for 
the  bosoms,  bemg,  however,  governed  according  to  the  number  of 
parts  into  which  the  harness  is  tied  :  for  the  greater  the  number  of 
parts,  the  more  leads  will  be  attached  to  each  simple  cord  ;  and  there- 
fore, they  must  be  proportionably  lighter,  and  the  contrary.  The 
leads  for  the  borders  of  a  two  thread  shawl  are  the  same  as  those  of 
the  four  thread,  provided  the  borders  are  not  gathered ;  but  for 
gathered  lx)rders,  wliich  have  double  the  number  of  threads  attached 
to  each  smiple  cord,  they  are  from  twenty  to  twenty-five  in  the 
pound,  and  of  the  same  length  as  the  fourteen  to  the  pound.  The 
bosom  or  body  leads  are  from  fifty  to  sixty  in  the  pound,  according 
to  the  number  of  parts  in  a  given  breadth  of  the  harness  and  the 
nimiber  of  lashes  requisite  for  the  pattern  ;  for,  it  is  evident  that  the 
more  lashes  there  are  on  the  smiple.  the  greater  will  be  the  friction 
on  the  suiiple  cords  in  passing  through  them  ;  and  consequently  the 
leads  must  be  heavier  to  sink  the  mails  after  being  raised.  Full 
harnesses,  in  general,  require  leads  fi-om  eighty  to  a  hundred  in  the 
pound  for  the  bodies  of  shawls,  but  if  the  parts  into  which  they  are 


DRAW    LOOM.  149 

tied  be  numerouSj  the  leads  are  sometimes  used  as  light  as  a  hun- 
dred and  ten. 

When  the  leads  are  all  hung-,  and  the  vmder  ends  of  the  mails 
inserted  in  the  grooves  of  the  slabstock,  a  piece  of  strong  wire,  (flat- 
tened by  passing  it  between  a  reed  maker's  rollers,)  is  run  through 
their  eyes,  by  means  of  which  they  are  all  kept  at  the  same  uniform 
height.  The  wire  is  then  lied  firmly  to  the  slabstock  with  pieces 
of  strong  twine,  at  such  distances  as  are  sufficient  to  prevent  the 
wire  from  bending,  or  allowing  any  portion  of  the  mails  to  rise  higher 
than  the  others  while  tying  the  neck  ;  all  of  which  process  will  be 
apparent  by  referring  to  Fig.  67. 

When  the  sleepers  are  taken  through  the  upper  holes  of  their  re- 
spective mails  they  are  divided  mto  the  parts  or  portions  in  which 
the  harness  is  to  be  tied.  The  holes  in  the  harness  board  are  then 
counted  off  for  each  part  or  pattern,  commencing  with  the  hole 
nearest  the  right  hand  selvage  ;  which,  if  a  right  hand  harness^ 
will  be  in  the  front,  as  at  Fig.  66 ;  but  in  the  backmost  row  on  the 
board,  if  a  left  hand  harness.  Changing  the  position  of  this  hole 
from  the  front  to  the  back  row  is  effected  merely  by  turning  up  the 
other  face  of  the  harness  board.  Then,  if  the  part  be  composed  of 
any  number  of  fives,  as  30,  35,  50,  &;c.  six,  seven,  ten,  &c.  of  the 
oblique  rows  are  set  off  for  each  part  respectively ;  but  if  the  part  is 
not  divisible  by  five,  as  for  example  the  number  64  ;  then,  there 
must  be  thirteen  oblique  rows  appropriated  to  each  part,  which  will 
leave  one  hole  empty  at  the  end  of  each,  as  was  formerly  observed. 
The  sleepers  are  now  taken  up  through  the  harness  board  in  regular 
succession. 

The  board  is  next  fixed  very  firmly  in  the  centre  of  the  loom, 
exactly  in  the  same  situation  in  which  it  is  afterwards  to  remain, 
and  at  the  height  of  about  8^  inches  above  the  maUs.  The  sleepers, 
which  are  made  of  the  same  twine  as  the  hangers,  are  in  length, 
firom  the  mails  to  the  knots  above  the  harness  board,  about  15^ 
inches.  The  position  of  the  harness  in  the  loom  will  depend  in  a 
great  measure  on  the  nature  of  the  work  in  which  it  is  to  be  em- 
ployed. Thus,  for  example,  a  pressure  harness  must  stand  further 
than  a  full  harness  fi-om  the  breast-beam  ;  which  is  that  wooden 
bar  over  which  the  cloth  passes  to  the  receiving  roll.  The  common 
distance  of  a  pressure  harness  from  the  breast-beam  is  about  twenty- 
two  inches ;  and  a  full  harness  eighteen  inches  ;  and  of  a  seeding 
harness,  which  in  general  is  placed  before  the  ground  leaves  about 
twelve  inches.  The  height  of  the  mails  in  a  full  harness  is  about 
three-fourths  of  an  inch  below  the  level  of  the  breast-beam  ;  in  the 


150  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

split  and  four  thread  harness  the  mails  should  stand  about  one  inch 
and  a  quarter  below  this  level,  and  to  these  respective  heights  the 
harness  board  must  be  accurately  adjusted. 

The  mails  being  now  divided  into  parts,  the  sleepers  of  the  first 
part  are  laid  over  the  edge  of  the  harness  board  on  one  side,  and 
those  of  the  second  on  the  other,  and  so  on  alternately,  that  each 
part  may  be  kept  distinct  from  the  others  ;  then  the  twine  or  sleeper 
attached  to  each  mail,  being  now  double,  is  knotted  to  its  respective 
neck  twine  ;  which  must  be  cut  of  a  length  sufficient  to  reach  from 
these  knots  to  the  ends  of  the  tail  cords  at  the  neck.  This  process 
is  called  heeting  the  harness.  These  neck  twmes  are  made  of  three 
ends  of  flax  yarn,  well  twisted,  and  weigh  from  two  and  a  half  to 
five  and  a  half  ounces  per  hank  of  four  cuts  :  the  coarse  twine  being 
employed  for  those  harnesses  which  are  divided  into  the  fewest  parts. 
These  neck  twines,  however,  wall  vary  in  length  according  to  the 
widtli  of  the  harness.  For  example,  for  a  harness  fifty-four  inches 
wide,  the  neck  twines  may  be  five  feet  six  inches  long. 

In  the  process  of  beeting  the  harness  the  snitch  knot  used  on  the 
treadle  cords  in  tweehng,  (fee.  is  mostly  employed,  to  enable  the 
weaver  to  adjust  any  of  the  twines  that  may  have  been  slacker  or 
tighter  tied  than  the  others  ;  and  this  is  efiected  when  the  neck 
twines  are  single,  which  is  commonly  the  case  for  hght  fabrics,  by 
casting  a  loop  knot  on  one  end  and  formmg  it  into  a  snitch,  through 
which  the  two  ends  of  the  sleeper  are  taken  and  knotted  in  the  usual 
way,  to  prevent  them  from  shppmg.  In  some  harnesses,  however, 
which  are  intended  for  stouter  fabrics,  the  neck  tv\Tnes  are  taken 
double  through  the  hole  board  ;  in  which  case  the  two  ends  of  the 
sleeper  are  tied  together,  and  formed  into  a  snitch,  into  which  the 
two  ends  of  the  neck  twine  are  inserted,  and  afterwards  knotted. 

Before  the  operator  can  proceed  further,  the  tail  must  be  warped ; 
which  is  effected  by  winding  the  twine  round  two  nails  or  pins, 
fixed  in  the  wall  of  a  house  at  a  distance  from  each  other  equal  to 
the  whole  length  of  the  tail,  and  this  is  commonly  about  eighteen 
feet ;  thoiigh  some  tails  are  now  made  as  short  as  fourteen.  This 
part  of  the  draw  loom  is  made  of  what  is  termed  by  the  spinners  of 
tliis  article,  unlaid  twine,  a  quaUty  which  prevents  it  from  untwist- 
ing after  it  is  tied  to  the  neck  twines  of  the  harness. 

"When  the  requisite  number  of  tail  cords,  which  must  always  be 
equal  to  the  ninuher  of  snails  that  are  to  rise  independently  of 
each  other,  are  thus  laid  together,  a  lease,  as  in  warping,  (see  Fig. 
3,  Section  1st.)  is  formed  at  one  end,  and  the  loops  cut  at  the  other ; 
at  the  lease  end  the  loops  are  separated  into  small  parcels,  com- 


DRAW    LOOM.  151 

monly  five  in  each,  and  formed  into  snitches,  by  which  they  are 
fastened  at  equal  distances  round  the  tail  stick  so  that  they  may 
stand  nearly  equal  to  the  breadth  of  tlie  tail.  This  piece  of  Avood 
or  tail  stick  is  fastened  to  the  ceiling  of  the  shop  where  the  tail  ter- 
minates. The  other  ends  of  the  tail  cords  are  taken  through  the 
pulley  box,  with  the  assistance  of  a  small  hook,  in  the  following 
order  :  supposing  the  tail  cords  to  be  numbered  1,  2,  3,  4,  5,  6,  7,  8, 

9  and  10,  from  the  bottom  of  the  back  row  at  A  to  the  top  at  B,  (see 
Fig.  64,)  then  the  first  ten  cords  will  pass  over  the  pulleys  from  1  to 

10  respectively;  the  second  ten  cords  over  the  pulleys  11  to  20  ; 
the  third  ten  over  21  to  30  :  and  so  on,  always  commencing  each 
row  of  pulleys  at  the  lower  part  of  the  box  A."  All  these  arrange- 
ments being  made,  and  a  wooden  frame  called  mounters  or  justers, 
such  as  that  employed  in  mounting  leaves  with  coupers,  is  fixed  to 
the  cape  of  the  loom  and  over  the  tail  at  W,  to  keep  the  cords 
equally  tight  and  at  the  proper  angle,  the  harness  is  then  ready 
for  tying. 

In  the  plan  of  a  harness  Fig.  63,  it  will  be  observed,  that  there 
are  ten  mails  numbered  on  the  edge  of  the  harness  board,  which  is 
repeated  four  times,  indicating  that  the  harness  is  tied  in  four  parts 
of  ten  mails  each,  which  supposes  only  one  row  of  holes  in  the  har- 
ness board.  But  as  there  are  five  such  holes  in  the  board  Fig.  66, 
though,  to  save  room  in  the  representation,  there  are  only  sixteen 
oblique  rows,  the  harness  may  be  calculated  upon  fifty  mails  for 
each  part,  which,  though  still  on  a  limited  scale,  will  be  sufficient 
to  explain  the  principles  upon  which  the  draw  loom  is  mounted. 
Either  one  or  more  assistants,  as  the  extent  of  the  harness  may  re- 
quire, are  stationed  at  the  side  of  the  harness  board,  to  take  up  the 
twines  in  the  order  in  which  they  occur,  and  hand  them  to  the  per- 
son who  ties  the  neck.  In  this  example  the  right  hand  twine  of 
each  part  is  selected  and  given  to  the  operator,  who  ties  all  these 
four  twines  to  the  tail  cord  numbered  1,  or  that  which  passes  over 
the  first  pulley  in  the  box,  as  already  mentioned.  By  the  time  this 
is  tied  the  second  twine  of  each  part  in  succession  is  ready  to  be 
handed  up,  which  the  operator  ties  to  the  second  tail  cord  marked 
2,  and  so  on  with  the  others  till  the  fifty  be  tied  ;  which,  in  this  ex- 
ample, occupy  one  half  of  the  box.  (See  Fig.  64.)  It  must  still 
be  remembered,  however,  that  when  the  first  ten  tail  cords  are  tied 
which  complete  the  first  row  of  pulleys,  the  operator  must  again 
commence  at  the  bottom  of  the  box,  as  at  first. 

The  knot  here  employed  is  formed  by  taking  the  four  neck 
twines  in  one  hand  and  the  end  of  the  tail  cord  in  the  other  ;  then. 


152 


THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 


laying  the  former  over  the  latter,  he  takes  the  turn  of  a  knot  on  the 
upper  part  of  the  tail  cord,  or  that  immediately  above  the  figures 
1,  2,  3,  4,  5,  6,  7,  8,  9  and  10,  in  the  drawing  Fig.  63,  with  the 
part  which  he  holds  in  his  hand  ;  then  another  knot  round  the 
same  with  the  ends  of  the  neck  twines. 

The  principal  care  to  be  taken  in  tying  the  neck  is,  that  the 
twines  from  the  different  parts  be  equally  tight,  and  that  the  knots 
be  all  in  the  same  horizontal  hne,  sufficiently  far  below  the  pulleys 
to  prevent  their  coming  in  contact  when  any  part  of  the  harness  is 
raised  to  form  the  shed  or  sheds.  To  assist  the  operator  in  this,  he 
places  a  rule  or  scale  along  the  inside  of  the  carriage,  in  the  posi- 
tion U  O,  in  a  hne  with  one  edge  of  which  he  ties  his  knots  ;  and 
this  scale  he  shifts  forward  as  each  row  of  cords  is  tied.  On  the 
same  scale  are  marked  the  distances  at  which  the  ends  of  the  tail 
cords  should  descend  vertically,  so  that  the  harness  may  hang  per- 
fectly plumb  in  the  loom  after  it  is  completed.  Before  the  tying 
commences,  however,  a  lead  is  suspended  by  a  piece  of  twine  from 
the  centre  of  the  pulley  box  E,  to  which  the  centre  of  the  harness  is 
accurately  adjusted  :  or,  which  is  more  accurate,  two  leads  are  sus- 
pended, one  over  the  fifth,  and  the  other  over  the  sixth  pulley,  at  the 
centre  of  the  box,  counting  from  the  bottom,  and  half  the  distance 
between  these  will  be  the  position  of  the  centre  of  the  harness 
board. 

The  next  process  is  to  warp  and  apply  the  simple,  which  is  pre- 
pared in  every  respect  in  the  same  manner  as  the  tail,  though  only 
about  six  feet  ten  inches  or  seven  feet  long,  less  or  more,  according 
to  the  height  of  the  shop  :  it  has  also  a  lease,  formed  at  its  lower 
end,  for  the  convenience  of  selecting  the  cords  when  required  :  this 
lease,  however,  is  merely  temporary,  being  retained  no  longer  than 
while  the  simple  is  tying  to  the  tail ;  from  which  it  can  at  any 
time  be  recovered  when  it  again  becomes  necessary.  The  operator 
now  ties  each  cord  of  the  simple  to  its  corresponding  tail  cord  at  W, 
(see  Fig.  63)  each  of  the  cords  being  readily  found  in  succession 
from  its  respective  place  in  the  lease.  In  order,  however,  that  the 
knots  of  the  smiple  may  not  be  too  much  crowded  on  the  tail,  the 
simple  cords  are  usually  tied  in  two,  or  three,  or  more  rows,  ac- 
cording to  the  number  of  cords  which  it  contains,  as  represented  at 
W  in  the  Fig. 

The  simple  is  made  of  what  is  termed  laid  twine,  which  dis- 
tinguishes it  from  that  of  the  tail,  and  weighs  from  twenty  to 
twenty-seven  hanks  in  the  pound,  but  in  every  other  respect  it  is 


DRAW    LOOM.  153 

the  same  as  the  tail  twine  formerly  described,  consequently  one 
hank  will  produce  twenty  simple  cords  seven  feet  long. 

The  lashes  I  I  I  are  formed  by  taking  the  lash  twine  around 
certain  portions  of  the  simple  cords  as  explained  under  the  head  of 
reading  or  lashing  the  pattern,  Fig.  70,  and  which,  as  formerly 
noticed,  serve  to  select  the  cords  of  each  particular  shed.  Each 
turn  of  the  lash  twine  round  any  part  of  the  simple  is  called  a  tack, 
and  the  whole  number  of  tacks  requisite  for  one  shed  constitute  a 
lash. 

Lash  twine  is  now  commonly  made  of  cotton  yarn,  about  No.  48, 
water  twisted,  and  from  six  to  eighteen  plies  laid  together,  and 
moderately  twisted  ;  for  too  much  twist  causes  the  twine  to  curl  on 
the  simple  and  obstruct  the  draw  boy's  progress.  The  twine  com- 
posed of  the  greater  number  of  ends  is  chiefly  employed  for  stout 
fabrics,  or  when  only  few  lashes  are  requisite  for  the  pattern  ;  but 
the  more  lashes  there  are  on  the  simple  the  finer  is  the  kind  of 
twine  which  is  applied,  to  occupy  less  space,  as  well  as  to  afford  the 
draw  boy  sufficient  room  to  work. 

The  length  of  the  lashes,  exclusive  of  the  heads,  is  commonly 
from  eight  to  tAvelve  inches,  according  to  the  breadth  of  the  simple  ; 
for  were  short  lashes,  for  example,  to  be  employed  on  a  broad  simple, 
the  simple  cords  on  each  side  would  be  drawn  into  an  oblique  posi- 
tion by  the  draw  boy's  hand,  before  they  could  be  brought  to  act 
along  with  those  in  the  centre,  and  consequently  form  a  very  irre- 
gular shed. 

The  heads  NNN  are  small  pieces  of  twine,  which,  as  formerly 
observed,  connect  the  lashes  together  and  the  gut  cord  on  which 
they  are  made  to  slide  up  or  down  at  pleasure  ;  each  lash  having 
its  respective  head.  These  heads  are  made  of  foot  twine  when  only 
few  lashes  are  necessary,  but  of  snitch  twine  when  they  are  more 
numerous.  The  length  of  twine  requisite  for  each  head  is  from 
nine  to  ten  inches  ;  and  when  the  two  ends  are  laid  together  and 
knotted,  the  length  in  the  double  state  will  be  from  four  to  four  and 
a  half  inches.  The  head  is  taken  through  a  snitch  formed  by  the 
loops  of  the  lash,  and  is  prevented  from  slipping  by  the  knot  on  the 
end.  On  the  loop  end  is  formed  a  noose  which  runs  on  the  gut 
cords. 

The  bridles  K  K,  which  are  tied  to  the  heads  for  the  purpose  of 
drawing  the  lashes  down  or  up  in  regular  succession,  are  made  of 
snitch  twine,  and  are  commonly  from  nine  to  thirteen  inches  be- 
tween the  heads  ;  the  longer  ones  being  necessary  where  the  draw 
boy  employs  what  is  termed  a  dog  or  devil. 

20 


154 


THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 


The  gut  cord  L  which  extends  from  the  floor  to  the  ceihng  of  the 
shop,  or  at  least  to  the  height  of  the  tail,  is  generally  composed  of 
three,  four,  five,  or  more  smaller  cords,  laid  together  without  any 
twist.  Those  made  of  cotton  are  preferred  to  those  made  of  flax  or 
hemp,  on  account  of  its  softness,  and  having  less  tendency  to  cut 
the  heads  of  the  lashes. 

For  the  smaller  sized  patterns,  which  require  only  a  few  lashes, 
one  gut  cord  is  fully  sufiicient ;  but  when  the  lashes  become  more 
numerous  it  is  customary  to  have  two,  and  the  heads  are  attached 
to  them  alternately,  as  represented  in  Fig.  68. 

Fig.  68. 


Moreover,  aU  covered  work  requires  additional  gut  cords,  one  for 
each  cover  or  colour. 

When  four  or  more  gut  cords  would  be  necessary,  however,  it  is 
now  common  to  employ  only  two,  and  to  put  on  the  lashes  with 
cross  bridles.    These  wiU  be  easily  understood  by  referring  to  Fig.  69, 

Fig.  69. 


in  which  W,  and  X  are  two  gut  cords,  placed  at  the  distance  of 
eleven  or  thirteen  inches  from  each  other,  according  to  the  number 
of  covers  or  variety  of  colours  in  the  pattern :  the  cross  bridles  ex- 
tend horizontally  from  A  to  E  or  from  D  to  O  between  the  two  gut 
cords,  on  which  they  can  be  shifted  up  and  down  by  the  draw  boy 
at  pleasure.  They  are  made  of  seine  twine,  two  ends  laid  together, 
and  a  knot  tied  for  fixmg  the  head  of  each  colouring  lash,  at  the 
distance  of  one  inch  from  each  other  ;  those  at  the  end  being  about 
two  inches  from  their  respective  gut  cords,  as  represented  in  Fig.  69, 


DRAW    LOOM.  155 

by  the  Figs,  of  reference,  1,  2,  3,  4  and  5.  Thus,  if  the  lash  at  1 
were  for  green,  at  2  for  dark  blue,  at  3  for  red,  at  4  for  yellow,  and 
at  5  for  light  blue,  then,  when  the  draAv  boy  takes  down  the  cross 
bridle  D  O,  on  which  there  are  lashes  for  all  the  five  colours,  and 
which  he  draws  in  succession,  beginning  with  the  lash  1  for  the 
green,  2  for  the  dark  blue,  3  for  the  red,  4  for  the  yellow,  and  5  for 
the  light  blue  :  he  then  shifts  down  this  cross  bridle,  and  replaces 
it  with  the  one  marked  A  E  :  but  on  this  the  lash  4,  for  the  yellow 
is  wanting,  so  that  he  has  only  the  lashes  1,  2,  3  and  5  to  draw  in 
succession  on  this  bridle,  for  the  green,  dark  blue,  red,  and  light 
blue,  respectively. 

By  referring  again  to  Fig.  63  it  will  be  observed,  that  as  the 
twines  incline  from  the  harness  board  to  the  neck  in  very  different 
angles,  those  towards  the  selvages,  especially  if  broad  harnesses, 
being  much  more  oblique  than  those  near  the  centre ;  it  will  follow, 
that  when  any  portion  of  the  simple  cords  is  drawn  down  to  form 
a  shed,  all  the  mails  cannot  rise  to  the  same  elevation  ;  and,  there- 
fore, the  sheds  thus  formed  will  be  not  only  very  irregular,  but  in 
many  cases  wholly  impervious  to  the  shuttle.     To  obviate  this  in- 
convenience, two  wooden  rollers  are  placed  in  each  space  between 
the  rows  of  tail  cords  at  the  neck,  or  at  the  knots  1,  2,  3,  4,  5,  6,  7, 
8,  9  and  10,  one  on  each  side  of  a  row.  and  the  ends  of  these  rollers 
turn  on  two  pieces  of  wood,  one  fixed  on  each  side  of  the  carriage 
at  U  O.     By  this  means  all  the  harness  twines,  however  oblique, 
will  rise  vertically  between  the  rollers,  and  consequently  all  the 
mails  will  be  raised  to  the  same  uniform  height  in  opening  the  sheds. 
When  the  harness  and  all  its  appendages  are  completed,  it  is  dis- 
engaged from  the  frame  in  which  it  was  built ;  the  frame  of  wood 
or  justers  which  was  fixed  above  the  tail  at  W  removed  ;  the  wire 
drawn  out  of  the  mails  ;  and  the  slabstock  taken  out  of  the  hangers. 
But  in  order  to  preserve  the  progressive  order  of  the  mails  for  draw- 
ing in  the  warp,  a  shaft  or  rod  must  be  introduced  into  the  place  of 
the  slabstock  before  it  is  taken  out ;  by  which  means  the  mails  will 
come  to  the  weaver's  hand  in  regular  succession  as, he  has  occasion 
for  them  in  entering  his  warp,  without  the  necessity  of  having  re- 
course to  the  harness  board.     The  harness  should  now  retain  the 
very  same  position  which  it  occupied  while  fixed  in  the  frame,  both 
with  respect  to  the  height  of  the  mails  and  their  distance  from  the 
yarn  roll  and  breast-beam. 

The  process  of  drawing  the  warp  through  a  harness  does  not 
differ  from  that  formerly  explained  under  tweeling.  Figs.  18,  21,  24, 
25,  27,  28,  29,  30,  31  and  32  (which  see ;)  always  drawing  the 


156  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

tirst  thread  on  the  back  leaf,  and  so  on  to  the  front  until  the  leaves 
of  headles  have  been  gone  over ;  beginning  again  at  the  back  leaf 
and  drawing  towards  the  front,  and  repeating  the  operation  until 
the  whole  warp  be  entered.  This  is  the  case  always  in  shawls, 
damask,  and  many  other  kinds  of  weaving.  After  the  warp  is 
taken  through  the  harness,  however,  a  new  lease  must  be  forced 
through  the  eyes  or  mails,  from  the  rods  behind,  for  the  pui-pose  of 
taking  it  through  the  ground  leaves. 

When  the  tail  of  a  harness  extends  across  the  shop  on  the 
weaver's  right  hand,  while  on  his  seat,  as  in  the  example  Fig.  63, 
it  is  termed  a  right  hand  harness  ;  but,  were  the  situation  of  the 
loom  to  require  it  to  be  tied  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  shop,  it  would 
then  be  denominated  a  left  hand  harness  ;  aU  the  tail  and  smiple 
cords  would  retain  their  relative  positions  and  connections,  only 
what  is  here  the  top  of  the  pulley  box  would  become  the  bottom, 
and  the  right  hand  side  of  the  simple  in  the  present  case  would  be- 
come the  left.  This  distinction  must  be  particularly  attended  to  in 
reading  the  pattern  on  the  simple  ;  which  will  be  further  explained 
under  the  head  of  reading  or  lashing  jjatterns. 

It  may  be  again  observed,  that  in  Fig.  63  the  tying  of  the  har- 
ness commenced  at  one  side,  or  at  the  figure  1  in  the  harness  board 
in  each  part,  and  continued  in  regular  succession  till  finished. 
This  is  the  most  common  form  of  the  harness,  though  other  varie- 
ties are  occasionally  adopted.  Had,  for  example,  the  mails  num- 
bered 1  in  the  two  parts  on  the  right,  and  those  numbered  10  in 
the  two  parts  on  the  left,  been  tied  to  the  first  tail  cord  or  that 
marked  1  at  the  neck,  and  the  others  in  regular  order  from  the  out- 
sides  toward  the  centre,  this  would  be  denominated  a  gathered 
harness ;  and  would  produce  this  effect,  that  whatever  positions  the 
patterns  assumed  in  the  two  right  hand  parts,  they  would  stand  re- 
versed on  the  other  two ;  or,  if  stripes  were  to  run  diagonally  from 
the  right  side  in  the  former  two,  they  would  change  theii-  direction 
in  the  two  latter,  and  meet  in  the  centre  of  the  web.  In  harnesses 
of  this  kind,  however,  it  wall  always  be  found  advantageous  to  ter- 
minate the  tying  with  an  odd  mail  in  the  centre,  which  prevents 
the  appearance  of  teething.* 

Again,  were  the  same  example  (Fig.  63)  to  be  taken  for  the 
bosom  of  a  shawl,  and  that  a  border  of  fifty  mails  were  to  be  added, 
it  is  obvious  that  an  additional  tail  and  simple  of  fifty  cords  each 
would  be  requisite  ;  which  would  exactly  fill  the  pulley  box  repre- 


*  A  double  point. 


DRAW    LOOM.  157 

sented  in  Fig.  64  ;  and  the  tie  of  the  harness  would  be  said  to  be 
fifty  border  and  fifty  body. 

In  this  case  the  fifty  pulleys  in  the  back  part  of  the  box  at  A,  B, 
C,  D,  would  be  appropriated  to  the  border,  and  the  remaining  fifty 
to  the  body. 

In  tying  a  harness  for  shawls  of  this  kind,  the  operator  may 
commence  either  with  the  border  or  body.  If  he  begin  with  the 
border  the  tail  cord  which  passes  over  the  first  pulley,  number  1  in 
Fig.  64,  is  tied  at  the  first  neck  twine  of  each  border  or  those  at  the 
extremities  of  the  harness  board  at  A  and  E  (Fig.  66.)  The 
second  tail  cord  is  tied  to  the  second  neck  twine  of  each  border, 
counting  from  the  two  selvages,  and  so  on  with  the  others  till  the 
borders  be  tied ;  observing,  as  formerly  directed,  that  when  the 
first  ten  cords  in  the  pulley  box  are  tied,  to  commence  the  second 
ten  at  the  bottom  of  the  box,  and  consequently  the  border  will  end 
at  C.  After  the  border  is  tied,  the  body  begins  with  the  tail  cord 
which  passes  over  the  fifty-first  pulley  or  the  first  in  the  body  part, 
C,  D,  E,  F,  and  proceeds  in  every  respect  as  has  been  already  ex- 
plained. 

Had  the  tying  commenced  wdth  the  body,  the  process  would 
have  begun  with  the  tail  cord  which  passes  over  the  first  pulley  at 
the  corner  of  the  box,  or  that  which  was  last  in  the  preceding 
method,  and  proceeded  on  in  the  contrary  direction  till  finished ; 
and  then  the  border  would  begin  with  that  tail  cord  which  passes 
over  the  first  pulley  at  the  left  hand  in  the  sixth  row,  counting 
from  the  front ;  and  in  this  case  the  harness  twines  nearest  the 
selvages  would  be  the  last  tied.  Hence  it  is  evident,  that  in  tying 
the  borders  the  right  hand  mail  on  one  side,  and  the  left  hand  mail 
on  the  other,  are  connected  to  the  first  tail  cord  ;  the  second  of  each 
in  succession,  to  the  second  tail  cord,  <fcc  :  but,  in  the  body  the 
tying  of  each  part  always  commences  at  one  side  and  proceeds 
regularly  to  the  other,  except  in  the  case  of  a  gathered  harness, 
which  would  have  continued  inward  to  the  centre,  or  outward  to 
the  selvages,  in  the  same  manner  as  the  borders. 

READING  OR  LASHING  PATTERNS. 

This  operation,  from  the  complexity  of  the  patterns,  and  the  ne- 
cessity of  accuracy,  requires  close  attention. 

The  lower  end  of  the  simples  A  is  fastened  to  the  cross  bar  B  in 
the  reading  or  lashing  frame,  a  very  correct  representation  of  which 
is  given  in  Fig.  70, 


158 


THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

Fig  70.* 


and  each  simple  cord  is  afterwards  placed  in  a  separate  interval  of 
the  reed  C  C  ;  which  is  open  at  one  side  so  as  to  resemble  a  comb. 

*  We  have  been  at  great  pains  to  make  this  machine  (as  well  as  all  the 
others  described  in  this  work)  worthy  the  attention  of  the  manufacturers  of 
this  country ;  and  we  doubt  not  that  our  endeavors  to  please  them  in  this  par- 
ticular will  be  properly  appreciated.    We  have  not  slavishly  followed  in  the 


DRAW    LOOM.  169 

This  reed  must  be  made  of  such  a  fineness  that  each  cord  of  the 
simple  A  may  stand  directly  opposite  to  that  space  of  the  design 
paper  to  which  it  corresponds  in  the  pattern,  with  allowance  for  one 
empty  interval  of  the  reed  at  the  end  of  each  design,  but  this  does 
not  appear  in  the  drawing  (Fig.  70.)*  The  pattern  is  now  placed 
above  the  reed,  as  shown  in  the  Fig.  and  over  it  the  straight  edge 
E  E  is  made  to  slide  up  and  down  in  grooves  cut  in  the  sides  of  the 
frame  at  F  F. 

These  arrangements  being  made,  and  the  straight  edge  E  E  fixed 
above  the  space  of  the  design  paper  that  represents  the  first  lash, 
the  operator  fastens  one  end  of  the  lash  twine  round  the  pin  G,  in 
such  a  manner  that  he  can  disengage  it  again  at  pleasure  ;  then, 
after  counting  off  such  spaces  at  the  left  of  the  design  as  are  to  be 
omitted,  if  any,  he  takes  a  turn  of  the  lash  twine  round  the  first 
parcel  of  simple  cords  that  are  to  be  taken  for  the  lash,  bringing  the 
loop  of  the  twine  over  the  pin  G  ;  then  round  the  next  parcel  of 
cords  that  are  to  be  taken,  and  again  bringing  the  loop  of  the  twine 
over  the  pin  G  ;  and  so  on,  alternately,  until  the  lash  be  completed  ; 
taking  care  at  the  same  time,  never  to  take  above  six  or  seven  cords 
of  the  simple  into  one  tack  or  loop  of  the  twine  ;  for,  when  a  greater 
number  of  cords  come  together  they  must  be  divided  into  different 
tacks,  not  exceeding  either  of  these  numbers  in  each.  After  the 
lash  has  been  applied  in  this  manner,  the  two  ends  of  the  lash  twine 
are  knotted  together,  close  to  the  pin  G  ;  which  is  now  taken  out, 
and  the  loop  that  it  has  formed  is  twisted  round  and  made  into  a 
snitch,  for  the  purpose  of  fastening  it  to  the  head.  The  lash  is  now 
pushed  down  behind  the  board  H  H,  to  make  room  for  another. 

In  the  example  given  in  Fig.  70,  the  pattern  J  J  would  require  a 
simple  containing  38  cords,  as  it  consists  of  that  number  of  small 
squares  in  the  breadth  ;  and  as  there  are  six  colours  in  it,  we  shall 
suppose  cross  bridles  to  be  employed.  It  is  placed  in  the  frame  and 
adjusted  to  the  simple,  as  already  mentioned.  The  lasher,  after 
fastening  one  end  of  his  twine  to  the  pin  G,  counts  off  30  cords  at 


track  of  our  predecessors  by  copying  verbatim  the  matter  furnished  by  men 
totally  incompetent  to  the  task.  We  have  spared  neither  expense  nor  labour 
in  endeavouring  to  make  this  Work,  in  all  respects,  of  sterling  utility;  and 
we  rest  our  case  in  the  hands  of  practical  weavers  and  manufacturers. 

*  It  is  customary  to  have  9  dents  in  the  reed  or  comb,  C  C  on  the  same 
space  as  one  of  the  designs,  8  by  8.  This  enables  the  reader  or  lasher  of  the 
pattern  to  leave  every  ninth  interval  of  the  reed  empty,  and  thus  to  distin- 
guish more  easily  the  termination  of  each  design.  The  same  principle  is  ap- 
plied whatever  be  the  kind  of  design  paper  used. 


160  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

the  left  side  of  the  simple,  corresponding  to  the  30  blank  spaces  or 
ground  on  the  first  line  of  the  pattern  at  the  bottom  ;  then  takes  a 
turn  of  the  twine  round  the  next  5  cords,  which  are  black  ;  brings 
the  loop  over  the  pin  G  ;  and  passes  the  3  last  cords,  which  are 
blank.  The  two  ends  of  the  lash  twine  are  now  to  be  knotted  to- 
gether ;  the  pin  G  taken  out ;  the  loop  twisted  ;  (it  is  unnecessary 
to  twist  a  lash  of  one  tack,  although  all  larger  ones  require  it)  and 
the  lash  put  upon  the  first  head  of  the  bridle,  or  that  marked  1, 
(Fig.  69  :)  which  bridle  being  thus  finished,  as  there  is  only  one 
colour  in  the  first  line,  is  then  put  behind  the  board  H  H.  The 
second  line  contains  two  colours,  red  and  black,  and  after  the 
straight  edge  has  been  shifted  to  its  proper  position  for  this  line,  the 
lasher  again  proceeds  with  the  black  by  passing  19  cords  to  the  left 
and  taking  the  twentieth  ;  he  passes  the  next  8  and  takes  5  which 
are  black  ;  and  as  the  last  5  on  the  line  are  blank,  they  are  like- 
wise passed  ;  and  the  lash,  being  completed,  he  attaches  it  to  the 
first  head  of  the  second  bridle,  as  formerly.  The  red  lash  on  the 
same  line  is  now  to  be  formed.  He  passes  three  cords,  and 
takes  2  red  ones,  which  follow ;  and  this  finishes  the  second  line 
of  the  pattern,  as  the  rest  of  it  is  all  ground,  except  the  black, 
which  was  taken  in  the  previous  lash.  He  fastens  the  red  lash 
to  the  second  head,  or  that  marked  2  on  the  second  bridle  ;  which 
bridle  he  puts  behind  the  board  H  H,  as  he  did  the  first ;  and 
so  on  till  the  pattern  be  finished  ;  bearing  always  in  mind,  as  be- 
fore observed,  that  every  colour  must  have  a  lash  exclusively  to 
itself,  and  they  must  all  be  draton  in  regular  order  by  the  draw 
boy. 

By  looking  over  the  pattern  it  will  be  noticed  that  there  are  two 
cords  of  green  on  the  fourth  line  from  the  bottom,  in  addition  to  the 
black  and  red,  so  that  there  must  be  three  lashes  on  the  correspond- 
ing bridle.  On  the  fourth  line  there  must  be  four,  as  the  blue 
comes  in  extra  upon  it ;  and  on  the  sixth  hue  five  will  be  required, 
as  it  contains  two  cords  of  yellow.  The  pink  begins  on  the  seven- 
teenth line,  and,  as  all  the  colours  are  upon  it,  there  will  be  six 
lashes  on  the  bridle.*  The  ruler  E  E  is  represented  in  the  drawing 
as  being  just  above  the  twelfth  line,  which  only  contains  black  and 
green,  and  consequently  but  two  lashes  will  be  necessary  for  this 
hne. 


*  In  Fig.  69  only  five  heads  are  represented  on  the  cross  bridles,  although 
there  are  six  colours  in  the  pattern,  Fig.  70 ;  but,  of  course,  the  operator  will 
UBC  as  many  as  he  has  covers  or  colours  in  his  pattern. 


DRAW    LOOM.  161 

Although,  in  these  examples,  the  instructions  are  given  to  take 
the  painted  parts  of  the  design,  yet  in  some  cases  it  is  of  advantage 
to  the  weaver  to  take  the  ground  simples  or  the  blanks,  and  pass 
the  painted  parts,  especially  when  they  are  heavier  to  draw  than 
the  ground  ;  and  in  others,  it  is  absolutely  necessary,  as  in  shawls 
for  instance,  the  pattern  of  the  side  borders  of  which  is  thrown  up 
by  the  warp,  and  of  the  cross  borders  by  the  weft ;  for  in  the  one 
the  flower  is  taken,  and  in  the  other  the  ground. 

It  may  be  here  observed,  that  the  cross  bar  or  board  H  H  in  the 
frame,  should  be  somewhat  circular  at  the  back,  that  when  the 
simple  cords  are  spread  round  it,  the  lashes  may  be  all  of  an  equal 
length  from  the  simples  to  the  pin  G  ;  The  board  H  H  should  be 
moveable  in  the  side  pieces  at  I  I,  so  that  it  may  be  regulated  ac- 
cording to  the  intended  length  of  the  lashes. 

The  loom  is  worked  by  two  persons,  one  of  whom  pulls  the 
lashes  and  simples  to  form  the  pattern,  and  the  other  manages  the 
treadles,  shuttles  and  lay.  The  ground  mounting  is  exactly  the 
same  in  every  respect  as  in  damask  weaving,  (which  see,)  and 
the  number  of  leaves  is,  of  course,  equal  to  one  set  of  the  tweel. 
For  the  ordinary  quality  of  damasks  five  leaves  are  commonly 
used,*  as  at  K  K  Fig.  65  ;  but  many  of  the  finest  are  wrought  with 
eight. 

The  person  who  pulls  the  lashes  draws  the  first  bridle  down ; 
and  then,  by  pulling  the  simples  of  the  first  lash,  and  consequently 
the  tail,  raises  that  part  of  the  harness  which  is  attached  to  the 
latter  :  the  weaver  then  works  until  a  change  of  the  pattern  be- 
comes necessary ;  the  draw-boy  slacks  those  cords  of  the  simple 
which  he  last  pulled,  and  pulls  the  simple  cords  of  the  second  lash, 
as  before  :  the  weaver  proceeds  to  work  until  another  change  is  re- 
quired ;  and  so  on  to  the  end  of  his  pattern. 

When  the  mounting  of  the  draw  loom  is  very  extensive,  it  is 
found  necessary  to  employ  from  two  to  ten,  or  more,  boxes  of  pul- 
leys, and  as  many  draw-boys  ;  for,  were  the  whole  number  of  pul- 
leys placed  in  one  box  or  frame,  it  would  be  extended  to  a  very  in- 
convenient  size.  These  are  placed  parallel  to  each  other,  and  an 
equal  portion  of  the  cordage  is  conducted  over  each. 

SCOTCH  COUNTERPOISE  HARNESS. 

The  next  weaving  machine,  in  order,  which  merits  our  attention 
is  that  invented  by  the  late  ingenious  James  Cross  of  Paisley  (Scot- 

*  In  this  case  these  form  what  is  generally  called  a  bastard  tweel. 

21 


162  TUE    ART    OP   WEAVING. 

land.)  This  machine  is  known  by  the  name  of  "  Cross's  Counter- 
poise Harness  ;"  and  its  object  is  to  supersede  the  use  of  draw  boj'^s. 
In  the  various  branches  of  figured  work  to  which  the  draw  loom  is 
apphcable,  this  object  has  long  been  a  desideratum ;  and  many  at- 
tempts have  been  made,  especially  in  Scotland,  towards  its  accom- 
plishment, but  nearly  all  of  them  have  either  proved  abortive,  or  at 
least  have  been  confined  to  particular  branches  of  the  manufacture. 
Since  the  introduction  of  the  Jacquard  machine  into  England  by 
Stephen  Wilson,  (brother  to  Samuel  Wilson,  late  Lord  Mayor  of 
London,)  even  Cross's  machine  seems  to  have  gone  out  of  use ;  but 
from  its  great  ingenuity,  and  evident  utihty,  in  many  respects,  Ave 
have  neither  spared  trouble  nor  expense  in  preparing  new  drawings, 
and  in  remodeling  the  description  of  it,  from  the  original  account 
given  in  the  Edinburgh  Encyclopoedia  ;  and  we  trust  that  these 
will  enable  the  reader  to  comprehend  with  ease  its  various  parts, 
both  in  detail  and  in  combination. 

This  machine  consists  of  three  distinct  parts ;  one  properly 
called  the  counterpoise  harness,  another,  an  apparatus  for  prepar- 
ing the  lashes,  and  the  third,  a  treading  machine.  Fig.  71,  is 
a  front  elevation  of  these  three  parts  connected  together  as  they 
stand  m  the  loom  when  it  is  at  rest.  The  harness  F  is  in  all  re- 
spects like  that  of  the  common  draw  loom,  already  explained,  till  it 
reaches  the  neck,  where  the  counterpoise  apparatus  commences. 
The  principal  part  of  this  apparatus  is  contained  in  the  upright 
frame  AA,  and  the  whole  is  supported  by  the  carriage  E  E,  which 
rests  on  the  capes  of  the  loom,  as  in  the  common  draw  loom.  In 
the  frame  A  A  are  four  boards  e,  w,  v,  i,  which  are  perforated  with  a 
number  of  corresponding  holes,  equal  to  the  tie  of  the  harness  or 
size  of  the  simple.  The  two  boards  e,  i,  (the  top  and  bottom  ones) 
are  mortised  into  the  cross  rails  d,  d,  which  are  let  into  the  upright 
frame  A  A ;  the  former  called  the  suspension  board  (the  top  board  e) 
from  its  bearing  the  weight  of  the  harness  and  leads,  and  the  latter 
(  i )  the  neck,  or  directing  board,  as  it  answers  the  purpose  of  rollers, 
as  well  as  keeps  the  cords  at  regular  distances.  The  other  two 
boards  u,  v,  are  called  trap  boards,  and  are  mortised  into  the  move- 
able bars  771,  m,  called  the  arms  of  the  trap  boards,  have  their  holes 
of  a  sufiicient  size,  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  to  allow 
the  knots  on  the  cords  o,  to  pass  freely  through  them  ;  and  at  the 
side  next  the  simple,  there  is  a  saw  draught,  or  cut  in  the  edge  of 
each  hole,  to  admit  the  cords,  but  to  support  the  knots  as  represented 
in  Fig.  72. 


DRAW    LOOM. 
Fig.  71. 


163 


Fiff.  72. 


•164  THE    ART    OP   WEAVING. 

They  are  fastened  to  the  suspension  or  top  board  e,  by  means  of  the 
holes  made  for  that  purpose,  and  are  taken  down  through  both  of 
the  trap  boards  to  the  neck  i,  where  they  are  tied  to  the  harness. 
K  K  are  two  circular  pieces  of  wood,  called  rotators,  which  revolve 
on  iron  axles,  that  run  through  to  the  opposite  side  of  the  frame  E, 
where  other  rotators  are  similarly  fixed,  z,  z,  z,  z,  are  small  bars 
or  arms  of  wood,  called  pushers,  and  which  connect  the  trap  board 
arms  to  the  rotators  on  each  side  of  the  frame  E.  The  rotators  K  K 
are  connected  together  by  means  of  an  arm  or  rod  (one  on  each  side 
of  the  carriage)  and  a  small  leather  belt  or  strap  at  each  end  of  it, 
which  takes  a  turn  round  each  of  the  rotators.  The  connecting  arm 
or  rod  is  placed  just  above  the  rotators,  and  works  in  a  guide,  which 
allows  it  to  slide  to  the  right  or  left,  according  to  the  alternate  mo- 
tion of  the  rotators,  so  that  whatever  motion  is  communicated  to  any 
one  of  these,  it  is  instantaneously  transmitted  to  the  other,  and  thus 
a  uniformity  of  action  is  constantly  kept  up.  L  is  a  bar  of  wood, 
with  a  corresponding  one  at  the  other  side  of  the  frame,  on  which  the 
axles  of  the  rotators  revolve,  and  their  height  is  regulated  by  the 
nuts  and  screws  y,  y. 

The  process  of  tying  the  counterpoise  is  the  same  as  in  the  com- 
mon draw  loom  ;  for  the  workman  commences  tying  at  the  back 
row  of  the  holes  in  the  neck  board  i,  and  the  other  rows  follow  in 
succession  ;  always  beginning  each  row  at  the  same  side  of  the 
board  at  which  the  tying  commenced,  as  from  a,  to  6,  if  it  com- 
menced at  a,  (fee.  as  in  the  pulley  box  of  the  draw  loom  (Fig  64.) 
In  the  Fig.  71  there  are  only  two  of  the  knot  cords  tied  to  their 
harness  twines  F,  the  first  and  last  of  each  row,  to  prevent  confusion, 
a,  a,  is  the  harness  board,  G  the  headles,  and  6,  and  c,  marches. 

Now,  it  is  evident,  that  when  the  rotators  K  K  are  turned  round 
to  the  right,  which  is  effected  by  means  of  a  cord  connected  to  a 
treadle,  the  pushers  z^  will  raise  the  upper  trap  board  u^  and  sink 
the  under  trap  board  v  ;  and  when  the  rotators  are  turned  the  con- 
trary way,  the  motion  of  the  trap  boards  will  be  reversed.  Conse- 
quently, were  a  portion  of  the  knot  cords  drawn  into  the  saw- 
draughts  of  one  trap  board  for  one  lash,  and  the  knot  cords  of 
another  lash  into  the  other  trap  board,  one  spotting  shed  would  be 
rising  while  the  preceding  one  woidd  be  sinking  ;  and  this  is  the 
principle  of  the  counterpoise  harness. 

The  next  part  of  the  machine  is  that  for  drawing  the  knot  cords 
into  the  saw  cuts,  and  is  chiefly  contained  in  the  frame  between  A 
and  B  (Fig.  71.)  In  this  apparatus,  the  simple  r,  r,  is  extended 
horizontally  at  the  top  of  the  frame  AB,  each  simple  being  tied  to 


DRAW    LOOM. 


165 


its  respective  knot  cord  above  the  neck  :  afterwards  it  is  continued, 
by  the  addition  of  other  pieces  of  twine  to  q,  where  it  is  supported 
by  a  half  leaf  of  headles,  and  again  to  the  wall  or  shop  window, 
where  the  ends  are  fastened.  At  p  are  leads,  one  attached  to  each 
cord,  to  recover  the  knot  cords  after  the  draught,  and  /,  a  board 
with  holes  in  it  for  regulating  their  distances.  5,  s,  are  gut  cords 
for  keeping  the  heads  of  the  bridles  open  for  the  hooks.  S^  is  the 
lash  driver  cross-piece,  and  R  the  shaft  which  communicates  the 
motion  from  the  pulley  T,  which  is  operated  upon  by  a  treadle,  and 
on  the  axle  of  which  are  a  number  of  eccentric  pulleys,  one  for 
each  cover  or  colour,  for  gaining  power  in  the  preparation  of  the 
lashes.  The  form  of  these  pulleys,  or  rather  tappets  will  be  seen  at 
Fig.  73. 

Fig.  74. 


Fig.  73. 


Fig.  74  is  a  front  view  of  the  lash  driver  ;  showing  Ukewise  the 
tnanner  in  which  the  lashes,  simple,  and  cross  bridles  are  connected. 
The  dots  at  a,  represent  the  ends  of  the  simple,  h  the  lashes,  c, 
the  heads  of  the  lashes,  and  e,  cross  bridles.  The  position  of  the 
hooks  a'  as  seen  in  Fig.  75, 

Fig.  75. 


for  drawing  the  lashes  is  pointed  out  at  d  (see  Fig.  74.)  g,  g,  g,  g, 
are  iron  pins  which  drive  the  lashes  to  their  proper  place  for  the 
draught  or  opening  of  the  shed,  h,  h,  are  the  small  castors  on 
which  the  lash  driver  moves.  Fig.  75  is  a  view  of  one  of  the  tum- 
blers or  levers,  in  which  is  fastened  the  hook  a'  for  pulhng  do^\^l 
the  lash.  The  two  parts  a'  and  b,  as  seen  in  Fig.  75,  are  opened 
by  cords  connected  to  the  treadles  when  they  are  in  the  position  to 
catch  the  head  of  the  lash,  but  shut  again  by  their  own  gravity,  as 
in  the  Fig.  before  the  lash  is  pulled  down.  There  is  one  of  these 
levers  for  each  cover  or  colour.     P  (Fig.  71)  is  the  frame  in  which 


166 


THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 


these  levers  are  placed,  and  which  will  be  seen  to  more  advantage 
at  Fig.  76. 

Fig.  76. 


where  1,  2,  3  and  4.  are  the  ends  of  the  levers,  and  the  small  pul- 
leys i,  have  cords  running  over  them,  to  recover  the  levers  after  the 
lash  is  drawn,  h  (Fig.  71)  is  the  escapement  for  opening  the 
hooks,  and  allowing  one  set  of  lashes  to  escape  and  another  to  en- 
ter. Q,  (Fig.  71)  is  a  roller  flattened  on  one  side,  to  allow  the 
levers  to  play  when  the  machine  is  working.  This  roller  has  a 
string  connected  to  the  escapement  and  another  to  the  hook  presser. 
In  the  hook  presser  are  wires  fixed  that  press  on  the  under  part  of 
the  hooks.  These  different  parts  are  put  in  motion  by  means  of 
treadles  and  marches,  as  in  the  ordinary  way  of  mounting  fancy 
looms. 

The  treading  machine  is  next  to  be  explained  :  the  frame  of 
which  is  seen  at  H,  Fig.  71,  but  the  several  parts  are  more  distinctly 
represented  at  Fig.  77. 

Fig.  77. 


DRAW    LOOM. 


167 


the  principal  of  which  are  as  follow  :  1,  is  a  knee  shaft ;  2,  short 
marches,  one  for  each  leaf  of  the  ground  harness  or  headles  ;  3,  a 
couper  for  turning  the  trap  board  5  ;  4,  a  long  march  for  working 
the  drawing  machine,  a,  e,  i,  o,  are  the  ends  of  the  treadles :  a  is 
for  opening  a  flowering  or  counterpoise  shed.  5  is  one  of  the  wheels 
or  pulleys  of  the  trap  boards,  represented  at  c.  Fig.  78. 

Fig.  78. 


6  are  the  knots  (see  Fig.  77,)  on  the  raising  and  sinking  cords,  and 

7  are  mails  attached  to  them.  8  is  a  weight  for  recovering  the  ma- 
chine, and  9  are  weights  for  balancing  the  mounting,  (see  Fig.  77,) 
10,  10,  are  boards  pierced  with  holes  for  conducting  the  knot  cords, 
one  of  which  is  seen  at  10,  Fig.  79. 

Fig.  79. 


c,  c,  are  weights  for  balancing  the  conducting  cords  ;  w,  a  cord  for 
conducting  the  pressmg  knot  cords  ;  y,  for  conducting  the  raising 


168  THE    ART    OP    WEAVING. 

knot  cords,  and  z^  weights  for  keeping  the  knot  cords  tight,  (see 
Fig.  11.)  «,  Fig.  78,  is  a  view  of  the  trap  board,  and  6,  of  the 
pressing  board,  each  with  their  holes  and  saw  draughts,  where  the 
knot  cords  play.  Fig.  79,  is  a  side  view  of  the  machine,  in  which 
1,  2,  3  and  4,  are  the  ends  of  the  shafts,  marches,  and  couper,  re- 
presented in  Fig.  11.,  with  the  same  figures  of  reference.  The 
tweeUng  cords  are  tied  to  the  marches  2,  brought  down  through  the 
board  10,  (see  Figs.  11  and  79,)  and  attached  to  the  mails  7,  which 
guide  the  knot  cords  into  the  saw  draughts.  These  cords  are  ar- 
ranged according  to  the  plan  of  the  tweel  to  be  woven.  As  o  and  e 
(see  Fig.  78)  are  the  two  treadles  for  the  ground,  when  either  of 
them  is  pressed  down,  the  pulley  5  is  turned  round,  and  opens  a 
shed,  and  while  one  foot  is  tread,  the  other  prepares  the  knot  cords 
for  the  next  change  of  pattern  to  be  woven,  (fcc. 

DESIGN  AND  COLOURING. 

"  Learn  hence  to  paint  the  parts  that  meet  the  view 
In  spheriod  forms,  of  Ught  and  equal  hue : 
While  from  the  light  receding  or  the  eye, 
The  working  outlines  take  a  fainter  dye, 
Lost  and  confused  progressively  they  fade, 
Not  fall  precipitate  from  light  to  shade ; 
This  nature  dictates,  and  this  taste  pursues, 
Studious  in  gradual  gloom  her  lights  to  lose, 
The  various  whole  with  softening  tints  to  fill, 
As  if  one  single  head  employed  her  skill." 

Do  Fresnoy. 

Mr.  Smith,  one  of  the  principal  silk  merchants  in  London,  stated 
in  his  evidence  before  a  committee  of  the  House  of  Commons,  that 
in  fancy  silks  the  superiority  of  the  patterns  in  French  fabrics,  oc- 
casioned the  sales  to  be  in  the  proportion  of  one  half  or  more  over 
the  English  ;  that  in  fancy  ribbands,  three-fourths  of  those  sold  were 
of  French  manufacture,  and  obtained  public  favour  solely  on  ac- 
count of  superior  design. 

James  Skene,  Esq.,  of  Rubislaw,  secretary  to  the  Board  of  Trus- 
tees for  the  encouragement  of  manufactures  in  Scotland,  says,  "  It 
appears  to  me  that  one  thing  in  which  the  British  manufacturer  is 
most  deficient  is,  a  knowledge  of  colours.  At  present,  as  far  as  my 
acquaintance  with  manufactures  goes,  I  beUeve  they  copy  their  pat- 
terns entirely  from  France ;  in  doing  which,  if  they  introduce  any 
alteration,  they  often  spoil  them ;  and  we  know  quite  well  that  any 
deviation  from  the  regular  established  and  fixed  rules  to  harmonize 


DRAW    LOOM.  169 

colours,  produces  the  same  effect  to  the  eye,  as  any  deviation  in  mu- 
sic from  the  harmony  of  notes :  and,  in  placuig  our  manufactures  or 
fancy  goods,  along  with  French  fancy  articles  of  the  same  nature, 
it  has  often  struck  me  as  a  remarkable  circumstance,  to  see  how 
very  little  those  rules,  which  are  exceedingly  simple,  are  attended  to 
in  the  Enghsh  copies." 

Mr.  Crabb,  a  designer  of  paper  hangings  in  London,  states,  that 
the  designs  of  the  French  room  papers  are  superior  in  accuracy  of 
drawdng  to  those  of  the  English :  and  that  the  coloius  are  an-anged 
upon  some  fixed  principle  by  the  French  artisan :  while  in  Great 
Britain,  the  workmen,  not  being  sufficiently  instructed,  labours  more 
at  random  until  he  obtains  the  effect  he  wishes,  and  this  may  be  as 
often  WTong  as  right. 

Charles  Tophs,  Esq.,  a  \'ice  president  of  the  London  Mechanics' 
Institute,  and  one  of  the  directors  of  the  Museum  of  National  Manu- 
factures, says,  '•  Many  iiuportant  branches  of  manufacture  call  for 
careful  cultivation  of  the  eye,  for  the  purpose  of  arranging,  assortmg, 
and  contrastmg  colours  ;  which  as  an  affair  of  taste,  calls  for  some 
portion  of  a  painter's  education."  And  he  adds,  "  whatever  partakes 
of  the  nature  of  ornament,  will  only  be  appreciated  in  a  refined  eye, 
as  it  is  characterised  by  grace  and  elegance  of  design ;  and  by  deli- 
cacy and  precision  of  execution." 

It  is  no  doubt  true,  that  tlie  cultivation  of  the  fine  arts  will,  in 
course  of  tune,  improve  the  perception  and  taste  of  a  nation,  from 
the  highest  to  the  lowest  grades  of  society ;  this  is,  however,  the 
work  of  ages  :  but  the  present  state  of  our  American  manufactm^es 
demands  an  immediate  miprovement  in  this  particular. 

We  beheve  this  want  of  ornamental  designers  to  arise  as  much 
from  the  nature  of  the  instruction  given,  as  from  the  want  of  oppor- 
tunities afforded  for  study.  It  is  seldom  that  the  young  men  who 
are  admitted  to  our  drawing  academies,  consider  their  studies  as 
merely  intended  to  unprove  them  in  the  useful  arts  to  which  they 
may  be  bred.  They  almost  always  imbibe  the  idea  of  rising  into  a 
higher  sphere,  and  seem  to  have  no  other  ulterior  object  in  their 
studies,  than  to  leave  their  humble  calling,  at  the  conclusion  of  their 
apprenticeship,  and  become  artists. 

We  speak  fi:om  particular  facts  which  have  come  under  our  ob- 
servation. 

Many  an  industrious  young  man,  of  ordinary  talent,  but  possess- 
ing suflicient  to  have  raised  him  to  the  head  of  ornamental  paint- 
ing, we  have  known  to  sacrifice  himself  to  a  life  of  penury  and  neg- 
lect, from  this  vain  idea. 

22 


170  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

Yarious  reasons  may  be  assigned  for  the  prevalence  of  this  mania 
among  young  men  who  have  had  opportunities  of  studying  the  art 
of  drawing :  the  flattery  of  their  friends  ;  injudicious  patronage ;  the 
desire  to  become,  by  the  quickest  and  easiest  means,  a  gentleman ; 
and  many  others,  over  which  no  national  institution  can  have  any 
control. 

The  most  prominent  cause,  however,  seems  to  be,  that  nothing  is 
reckoned  a  work  of  art  unless  it  be  a  picture.  No  matter  how  supe- 
rior an  ornamental  design  may  be,  or  how  much  study  or  know- 
ledge may  have  been  required  to  produce  it,  still  the  production  of 
such,  although  it  may  increase  the  wealth  of  the  individual,  cannot 
raise  him  one  step  in  the  scale  of  society ;  he  is  only  a  mechanic  in 
the  eyes  of  the  public. 

On  the  other  hand,  no  sooner  does  the  youth  lay  aside  his  useful 
implements,  and  dash  off  upon  canvass  something  like  a  landscape, 
often  with  no  eye  to  nature,  but  in  servile  imitation  to  some  popular 
painter,  than  he  seems  to  be  by  common  consent  raised  to  the  dignity 
of  artist.  In  short,  those  branches  of  the  fine  arts  that  are  apphca- 
ble  to  manufacture  and  other  departments  of  useful  industry,  do  not 
obtain  in  the  United  States  that  relative  situation  to  the  more  intel- 
lectual and  higher  branches,  to  which  they  are  fairly  entitled.  The 
case  is  different  in  Italy,  for  in  the  Academy  of  the  Fine  Arts  at 
"Venice  there  are  distinct  professors  in  the  following  departments  of 
art :  Architecture,  Painting,  Sculpture,  Engra\nng,  Perspective,  and 
Ornament,  and  that  in  this  latter  branch  the  pupUs  are  so  numerous 
that  the  professor  requires  an  assistant.  Their  examples  are  not 
only  the  best  ornamental  models  of  antiquity,  but  fmit,  flowers  and 
foliage.  Every  fifteen  days  they  are  each  required' to  make  an  ori- 
ginal design,  ^^^thin  a  given  number  of  hours,  precautions  being 
taken  to  prevent  deception ;  and,  according  to  its  merits,  advance- 
ment and  preference  are  bestowed. 

A  learned  writer  states  that  "  the  town  of  Lyons  is  so  conscious 
of  the  value  of  such  studies  that  it  contributes  20.000  fi-ancs  per  an- 
num to  the  government  estabUshment  of  the  school  of  arts,  which 
takes  charge  of  every  youth  who  shows  an  aptitude  for  drawing  or 
imitative  design,  of  any  kind  apphcable  to  manufactures.  Hence, 
all  the  eminent  painters,  sculptors,  even  botanists  and  florists  of 
Lyons,  become  eventually  associated  with  the  staple  trade,  and  de- 
vote to  it  their  happiest  conceptions." 

The  Chinese  seem  to  surpass  all  others  in  directing  the  studies  of 
their  youth  distinctly  to  their  ulterior  object. 

A  writer  on  painting,  in  •'■'  Arnold's  Library  of  the  Fine  Arts," 


DRAW    LOOM.  171 

mentions  having  seen,  in  the  city  of  Pekin,  a  drawing  book  with 
progressive  examples,  where  the  separate  character  of  land  and 
water,  rock  and  foliage,  are  given  in  perfect  detail ;  and  to  these 
were  added  implements  of  various  kinds,  with  figures,  separate  and 
in  groups,  all  highly  picturesque ;  and  adds,  that  the  objects  of  all 
these  preparatory  studies  of  the  pupil  was  to  enable  him  to  paint  a 
fan,  which  was  the  last  example  given. 

We  feel  quite  assured  that  were  a  similar  course  followed  in  our 
American  Academies,  a  sufficient  portion  of  that  genius  which  at 
present  seems  to  be  all  flowing  into  one  channel,  would,  like  a  mill 
race  taken  from  a  river,  be  directed  from  that  which  is  merely  orna- 
mental to  that  which  is  essentially  useful  and  beneficial  to  the  coun- 
try. Art  would  not  suffer  from  this,  on  the  contrary,  where  real 
genius  was  discovered  the  facilities  for  encouraging  it  would  be 
much  greater :  and  we  should  have  less  of  that  misappUed  and  often 
selfish  sort  of  patronage  which  fosters  ordinary  talent  until  it  is  fic- 
titiously raised  to  where  it  cannot  stand,  and  is  then  by  the  desertion 
of  such  injudicious  patrons  allowed  to  fall  far  below  its  own  natmal 
level. 

We  have  attributed  selfishness  to  some  of  these  pretended  patrons 
of  art,  for  we  know  that  they  are  often  actuated  by  that  feeling. 

They  cannot  bring  their  minds  to  encourage  those  who  have 
really  proved  themselves  to  possess  the  qualities  which  constitute  the 
real  artist ;  the  works  of  such  are  too  expensive,  because  their  real 
value  is  known.  Their  proteges  are  the  undeveloped,  and  they  pro- 
cure the  early  attempts  of  such  for  a  mere  pittance.  They  calculate 
that  these  embryo  artists  are  all  to  be  Rubenses  in  their  day,  and 
that  their  early  productions  will,  like  those  of  such  great  men,  con- 
sequently become  highly  valuable.  In  many  cases  too  injudicious 
patronage  is  the  means  of  fostering  mediocrity,  which,  assisted  by 
other  cu-cumstances,  is  sustained  in  a  situation  injurious  to  true  art. 
This  is  well  known  and  much  lamented  among  artists  themselves, 
we  mean  such  as  really  deserve  the  name ;  hence  the  necessity  of 
national  institutions,  where  merit  alone  will  receive  patronage,  and 
be  honoured  by  the  approbation  of  those  who  are  most  capable  to  be 
its  judges. 

But,  to  return  to  our  subject,— notwithstanding  the  superabun- 
dance of  mediocre  artists,  it  must  be  admitted,  that  there  is  a  want 
of  proper  instruction  in  the  art  of  drawing  where  it  would  be  of  most 
service ;  namely,  in  the  populous  manufacturing  districts ;  and  as 
this  book,  being  adapted  to  the  improvement  of  manufactures,  may 
probably  find  its  way  into  these  quarters,  we  shall  add  a  few  hints 


172  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

for  the  assistance  of  such  as  wish  to  commence  this  pleasing  and 
useful  study,  and  who  may  not  have  had  any  pre\dous  instructions. 
The  best  kind  of  study  to  begin  with,  for  those  who  intend  to 
direct  their  attention  merely  to  ornamental  designs  for  manufactures, 
is  that  of  flowers  and  foliage.  When  they  are  perfect  in  that  branch, 
they  may  then  soar  higher  if  they  please.  It  is  the  fault  of  most 
students  of  drawing  to  begin  at  the  wrong  end  of  their  studies,  by 
attemptmg  difficult  subjects  before  they  are  capable  of  drawing  a 
single  correct  line,  (it  is  for  a  sunilar  reason  that  we  have  given  in 
this  work  so  thorough  an  analysis  of  plain  weaving)  and  this  want 
of  knowledge  of  the^r^^  elements  generally  sticks  to  them  tluough 
life ;  for,  in  very  few  instances  do  those  who  neglect  the  attamment 
of  such  knowledge  at  the  outset  ever  descend  to  the  drudgery  of  do- 
ing so  afterwards. 


INSTRUCTIONS  IN  ORNAMENTAL  DRAWING. 

A  knowledge  of  drawing  is,  next  to  reading  and  writing,  an 
essential  branch  of  education  for  the  manufacturer  and  mechanic, 
and  to  every  one  a  source  of  enjoyment.  The  course  of  study  we 
are  about  to  point  out  is  within  the  reach  of  all,  even  those  m  the 
most  humble  situations  of  hfe.  They  will  find  it  of  easy  acquii-e- 
ment,  and  a  source  of  continued  enjopnent,  in  the  improved  medium 
through  which  it  will  lead  them  to  view  the  most  ordinary  produc- 
tions of  Nature.  She  shall  be  their  instructor,  for  aU  that  we  can 
pretend  to  do  is  to  point  out  to  them  a  practical  mode  of  receiving 
her  lessons. 

In  the  first  place,  let  your  attempts  be  of  the  most  simple  kind, 
and  on  as  large  a  scale  as  you  can  conveniently  adopt.  Therefore, 
begin  by  procuring  a  black  painted  board  or  slate,  of  from  two  to 
three  feet  square ;  and  with  white  chalk  practice  the  drawmg  of 
squares,  circles  and  ovals,  without  any  guide  to  your  hand.  Make 
copies  of  these  figures  by  the  ordinary  rules,  and  when  you  are 
pretty  perfect  at  these,  upon  the  proper  combinations  of  which  de- 
pends all  linear  harmony,  you  may  practice  in  the  same  way  trian- 
gles, hexagons,  octagons,  and  such  other  figures  as  arise  from  the  va- 
rious combinations  of  the  straight  line.  Next,  by  your  circular  and 
oval  Unes,  you  may  form  crescents,  circular  and  flattened  volutes, 
regular  undulations,  and  other  figures  which  arise  out  of  their  vari- 
ous combinations  ;  first  making  an  accurate  copy  of  each  figure  by 


DRAW   LOOM.  173 

measurement,  and  continuing  to  practice  until  you  can  form  it  by 
the  eye  with  perfect  ease.  Avoid  forming  your  figures  by  Httle  bits 
at  a  time :  do  each  hne,  as  much  as  possible,  by  one  sweep  of  the 
hand.  When  you  have  become  expert  in  tliis  kind  of  practice  we 
would  recommend  you  at  once  to  draw  from  nature.  You  may 
take  for  your  first  subject  a  pumpkin  leaf,  the  larger  the  better,  and 
persevere  in  copying  it  full  size  until  you  can  represent  it  accurately 
in  outline  with  its  principal  fibres.  You  may  then  vary  your  prac- 
tice, by  adopting  other  simple  subjects  of  a  similar  kind,  until  you 
find  you  can  do  them  all  with  ease. 

Before  endeavouring  to  draw  more  than  one  leaf  at  a  time  you 
must  know  a  little  of  perspective.  The  most  simple  mode  by  which 
you  will  obtain  such  knowledge  of  this  art  as  will  be  useful  for  your 
present  purpose,  is  to  hang  a  circular  object,  such  as  a  hoop,  between 
you  and  the  window ;  set  it  moving  gently  round ;  recede  a  little 
from  it,  and  you  will  find  that  as  one  side  of  it  retues  and  the  other 
comes  forward,  the  cu'cle  which  it  describes  becomes  more  and  more 
elliptical  until  it  disappears  altogether,  and  leaves  nothing  but  a  dark 
line,  as  if  a  stick,  instead  of  a  hoop,  were  hanging  before  you.  Fix 
it  in  various  positions,  and  draw  from  it,  and  observe  that  the  least 
movement  changes  its  form.  A  knowledge  of  this  simple  fact  is  all 
that  you  require  of  perspective  in  the  mean  tuue.  You  may  now 
hang  up  your  pumpkin  leaf,  and  you  will  observe  the  same  change 
in  its  figure  as  it  turns  round.  Make  an  outline  of  its  shape  while 
its  front  is  half  turned  from  you ;  then  bring  it  from  between  you 
and  the  light  and  place  it  where  the  light  will  fall  upon  it  with  its 
face  half  turned  fiom  you,  as  when  it  hung  between  you  and  the 
window.  Take  your  outline  and  within  it  draw  the  principal  fibres 
as  you  see  them.  To  do  this  properly  will  requii'e  a  great  deal  of 
practice,  but  it  will  pave  the  way  to  your  being  able  to  draw  the 
most  complex  groups  of  flowers  and  foliage  that  can  be  placed  be- 
fore you.  You  may  now  hang  before  you  a  small  branch  of  any 
tree  with  a  few  leaves  upon  it,  the  larger  the  leaves  are  the  better, 
and  endeavour  to  make  outlines  of  them,  var5dng  their  shape  ac- 
cording to  then-  perspective,  as  already  described ;  be  particular  on 
this  point,  for  a  great  deal  depends  upon  it.  We  once  knew  an  in- 
telligent Irishman  so  unaware  of  the  simple  fact  of  a  circular  object 
altering  its  shape  by  being  seen  obhquely,  that  he  retmned  his  por- 
trait to  have  all  the  buttons  made  quite  round ;  for  although  they 
appeared  so  at  a  little  distance,  he  found  by  actual  measurement 
that  they  were  not  like  those  upon  his  coat. 

To  gain  anything  like  a  tolerable  accuracy  in  this,  the  first  stage 


174  THE    ART    OP    WEAVING. 

of  your  lessons,  may  occupy  from  four  to  six  months ;  that  is,  sup- 
pose you  only  practice  at  leisure  hours. 

You  may  notv  lay  aside  your  chalk  and  slate,  and  provide  your- 
self with  a  few  sheets  of  common  cartridge  paper,  and  some  pieces 
of  charcoal ;  that  made  from  lime  tree  is  the  best.  Stretch  a  whole 
sheet  of  your  cartridge  paper  upon  your  board,  and  make  it  fast  by 
a  wafer  or  a  little  paste  at  each  corner.  Place  before  you  a  cab- 
bage, or  any  such  large  vegetable,  and  it  will  be  more  picturesque 
if  the  leaves  are  hanging  loose.  Copy  these  carefully  in  outUne, 
using  your  charcoal  gently,  that  any  inaccuracy  may  be  easily 
brushed  off.  We  need  not  here  remind  you  of  what  suggested  the 
richest  of  pure  architectural  ornaments,  the  Corinthian  Capital,  a 
basket  with  a  weed  growing  round  it. 

Yoiu-  next  practice  should  be  Ught  and  shade.  Bruise  a  bit  of 
your  charcoal  to  powder,  take  a  piece  of  any  kind  of  cloth  upon  the 
point  of  your  finger,  dip  it  into  the  powder  and  rub  it  upon  such 
parts  of  your  outlined  sketch  as  you  observe  in  the  original  do  not 
receive  the  direct  light  of  the  window,  and  where  it  appears  lightest 
touch  your  copy  \vith  your  chalk,  leaving  the  clean  cartridge  paper 
intermedially  as  a  middle  tint.  Persevere  in  this  sort  of  practice  for 
some  months. 

For  the  coarse  paper  upon  which  you  have  hitherto  practiced  you 
may  now  substitute  what  is  called  drawing  cartridge,  which,  instead 
of  being  merely  fixed  at  the  corners,  must  be  pasted  all  over  the 
edge :  provide  yourself  with  a  black  lead  pencil,  a  swan  quill  hair 
pencil,  and  Indian  ink.  Commence,  as  formerly,  by  sketching  your 
subject  lightly  with  charcoal,  as  it  is  more  easily  erased,  and  when 
you  have  got  your  outlines  quite  correct,  go  over  it  with  your  black 
lead  pencil.  Rub  down  plenty  of  the  Indian  ink,  for  much  of  the 
freedom  of  your  work  will  depend  upon  the  wholesale  way  in  which 
your  shades  are  washed  in.  Continue  this  practice  for  six  months 
before  attempting  smaller  subjects  than  those  we  have  described. 
You  Anil  now  find  httle  difficulty  in  copying  the  best  examples  of 
either  ancient  or  modern  ornament  that  can  be  laid  before  you ;  but 
flowers  are  your  best  practice.  We  cannot  lead  you  further :  you 
must  go  to  a  drawing  master  to  attain  a  knowledge  of  using  oil  or 
water  colours.  But  should  your  patterns  be  adapted  for  damasks 
only,  you  will  have  no  use  for  this,  unless  for  your  amusement. 

We  are  aware  that  this  course  of  study  would  be  useless  to  many, 
were  the  present  style  of  patterns  in  their  particular  branches  of 
manufacture  to  continue  in  fashion ;  for  many  of  these  designs  are 


DRAW    LOOM.  175 

a  jumble  of  forms  of  the  most  nondescript  nature.     Improvement, 
however,  is  loudly  called  for. 

To  those  who  have  gained  a  facility  for  copying  the  beautiful 
forms  that  prevail  in  the  vegetable  kingdom,  and  who  have  had 
such  instructions  in  the  use  of  water  colours  as  may  enable  them  to 
copy  individual  flowers  with  ease,  we  would  recommend  the  ac- 
quiring of  a  thorough  knowledge  of  harmonious  colouring,  (which 
see.) 

The  modes  in  which  taste  is  cultivated  at  Lyons  deserve  particu- 
lar attention,  study,  and  imitation.  Among  the  weavers  of  that 
city,  (as  well  as  among  those  of  the  other  great  cities  of  France) 
much  attention  is  devoted  to  anything  in  any  way  connected  with 
the  beaijtiful  either  in  figure  or  colour.  Weavers  may  be  seen  in 
their  holiday  leisure  gathering  flowers  and  grouping  them  in  the 
most  engaging  combinations.  They  are  continually  suggesting  new 
designs  to  their  employers,  and  are  thus  the  fruitful  source  of  elegant 
patterns.  Hence,  the  French  flower  patterns  are  remarkably  free 
from  incongruities,  being  copied  from  nature  with  scientific  precision. 

All  these  facilities  for  the  improvement  of  our  fancy  manufactures, 
which  are  now  springing  into  existence  in  every  quarter  of  this  vast 
country,  are  within  the  reach  of  the  most  humble.  The  pursuit  of 
such  a  course  of  study  as  we  have  endeavoured  to  point  out,  would 
not  only  augment  their  sources  of  innocent  pleasure,  but  lead  them 
to  other  instructive  pursuits.  The  youth  in  searching  for  the  most 
graceful  and  picturesque  plants  in  nature's  most  profuse  and  wildest 
productions,  would  be  naturally  led  to  commence  the  study  of  botany ; 
for,  he  would  then  have  some  interest  in  the  enquiry.  And,  it  may 
easily  be  imagined  with  what  avidity  the  more  advanced  would  add 
to  their  knowledge  of  that  pleasing  science,  or  the  gratification  they 
would  derive  from  the  study  and  practice  of  horticulture. 

It  is  scarcely  necessai  y  for  us  to  point  out  the  advantages  to  be 
derived  from  the  cultivation  of  flowers,  by  those  engaged  in  design- 
ing ornamental  patterns.  The  productions  of  a  well  managed 
flower  garden  to  such  would  be,  in  our  opmion.  of  more  real  utility 
as  objects  of  study  than  the  contents  of  the  Louvre.  In  those  pro- 
ductions of  nature  they  will  find  most  exquisite  beauty  and  ele- 
gance of  form. 

In  saying  that  the  study  of  such  subjects  is  of  more  utility  to  the 
ornamental  designer  than  that  of  those  great  works  of  art  which 
have  been  the  admiration  of  ages,  we  do  not  mean  to  undervalue 
the  benefit  that  any  one,  and  especially  the  artist,  may  derive  from 
studying  works  of  this  description.     We  are  aware  that  the  eye  has 


176  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

its  principle  of  correspondence  with  what  is  beautiful  and  elegant, 
and  that  it  acquires,  Uke  the  ear,  an  habitual  dehcacy,  and  answers 
wdth  the  same  provisions  to  the  finest  mipressions.  Being,  there- 
fore, versed  in  the  works  of  the  best  masters  it  soon  learns  to  distin- 
guish true  impressions  from  false,  and  grace  from  affectation. 

HARMONIOUS  COLOURING. 

Harmonious  aiTangements  of  colours  are  such  combmations  as 
by  certain  principles  of  oiu  nature  produce  an  effect  on  the  eye 
similar  to  that  which  is  produced  by  harmonious  music  on  the  ear  ; 
and  a  remarkable  conformity  exists  between  the  science  of  colour 
and  that  of  sound  m  their  fundamental  principles,  as  well  as  in  their 
effects. 

It  is  well  known  to  all  who  have  studied  music,  that  there  are 
three  fundamental  notes,  viz.  C,  E,  and  G,  which  compose  the  com- 
mon chord  or  harmonic  triad  ;  and  that  they  are  the  foundation  of 
all  harmony.  So  there  are,  also,  three  fundamental  colours,  the 
lowest  number  capable  of  uniting  in  variety,  harmony  or  system. 

By  the  combination  of  any  two  of  these  primary  colours  a  second- 
ary colour  of  a  distinct  kind  is  produced  ;  and  as  only  one  absolutely 
distinct  denomination  of  colour  can  arise  from  a  combination  of  the 
three  primaries,  the  fuU  number  of  really  distinct  colours  is  seven, 
corresponding  to  the  seven  notes  in  the  complete  scale  of  the  musi- 
cian. Each  of  these  colours  is  capable  of  forming  an  archus  or 
key  for  an  arrangement  to  wliich  all  the  other  colours  introduced 
must  refer  subordinately.  This  reference  and  subordination  to  one 
particular  colour,  as  is  the  case  m  regard  to  the  key  note  in  musical 
composition,  gives  a  character  to  the  whole. 

This  characteristic  of  an  arrangement  of  colour  is  generally  called 
its  tone ;  but,  this  tone  is  more  apphcable  to  individual  hues,  as  it  is 
in  music  to  voices  and  instruments  alone.  The  colourist,  like  the 
musician,  notwithstanding  the  extreme  simphcity  of  the  fundamen- 
tal principles  upon  which  his  art  is  founded,  has  ample  scope  for 
the  production  of  originahty  and  beauty,  in  the  various  combinations 
and  arrangements  of  his  materials. 

The  three  homogenious  colours,  yellow,  red,  and  blue,  have  been 
proved  by  Field  in  the  most  satisfactory  manner  to  be  in  numerical 
proportional  power  as  follows :  yeUow  three,  red  five,  and  blue  eight. 

When  these  three  colours  are  reflected  from  any  opaque  body  in 
these  proportions,  white  is  produced.  They  are  then  in  an  active 
state,  but  each  neutralized  by  the  relative  effect  that  the  others  have 


DRAW   LOOM.  177 

upon  it.  When  they  are  absorbed  in  the  same  proportions  they  are 
in  a  passive  state,  and  black  is  the  result.  When  transmitted 
through  any  transparent  body  the  effect  is  the  same,  but  in  the  first 
case  they  are  material  or  inherent,  and  in  the  second  impalpable  or 
transient. 

From  the  combination  of  the  primary  colours  the  secondary  arise, 
and  are  orange,  which  is  composed  of  yellow  and  red  in  the  propor- 
tion of  three  and  five ;  purple,  which  is  composed  of  red  and  blue 
in  the  proportion  of  five  and  eight ;  and  green,  composed  of  yellow 
and  blue  in  the  proportion  of  three  and  eight.  These  are  called  the 
accidental  or  contrasting  colours  to  the  primaries  with  which  they 
produce  harmony  in  opposition,  in  the  same  manner  in  which  it  is 
effected  in  music  by  accompaniment,  the  orange  with  the  blue,  the 
purple  with  the  yellow,  and  the  green  with  the  red.  They  are 
therefore  concords  in  the  musical  relation  of  fourths,  neutralizing 
each  other  at  sixteen.  From  the  combination  of  these  secondaries 
arise  the  tertiaries,  which  are  also  three  in  number,  as  follows: 
olive,  from  the  mixture  of  the  purple  and  green  ;  citron  from  the 
mixture  of  orange  and  purple ;  and  russet  from  the  mixture  of  green 
and  orange.  These  three  colours,  however,  hke  the  compounds 
produced  by  their  admixture,  may  be  reckoned  under  the  general 
denomination  of  neutral  hues,  as  they  are  all  formed  by  a  mixture 
of  the  same  ingredients,  the  three  primaries,  which  always  less  or 
more  neutralize  each  other  in  triunity ;  the  most  neutral  of  them 
all  being  grey,  the  mean  between  black  and  white,  as  any  of  the 
secondaries  are  between  two  primaries,  it  may  appropriately  be 
termed  the  seventh  colour.  These  tertiaries,  however,  stand  in  the 
same  relation  to  the  secondaries  that  the  secondaries  do  to  the  prima- 
ries, ohve  to  orange,  citron  to  purple,  and  russet  to  green  :  and  their 
proportion  will  be  found  to  be  in  the  same  accordance,  and  neutral- 
izing each  other  integrally  as  32. 

Out  of  the  tertiaries  arise  a  series  of  other  colours,  such  as  brown, 
marone,  slate,  &.c.  in  an  incalculable  gradation,  until  they  arrive  in 
a  perfect  neutrality  in  black.  To  all  of  these  the  same  rules  of  con- 
trast are  equally  applicable. 

Besides  this  relation  of  contrast  in  opposition,  colours  have  a  re- 
lation in  series,  which  is  their  melody.  This  melody  or  harmony 
of  succession  is  found  in  all  the  natural  phenomena  of  colour. 
Each  colour  on  the  prismatic  spectrum  and  in  the  rainbow  is  melo- 
dized by  the  two  compounds  which  it  forms  with  the  other  two 
primaries.  For  instance,  the  yellow  is  melodized  by  the  orange  on 
the  one  side  and  the  green  on  the  other,  the  blue  by  the  green  and 

23 


178  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

purple,  and  the  red  by  the  purple  and  orange.  Field,  in  his  excel- 
lent essay  on  the  "  Analogy  and  Harmony  of  Colours,"  has  shown 
these  coincidences  by  a  diagram,  in  which  he  has  accommodated 
the  chromatic  scale  of  the  colourist  to  the  diatonic  scale  of  the  mu- 
sician ;  showing  that  the  concords  and  discords  are  also  singularly 
coincident. 

An  eminent  writer  on  the  fine  arts  observes,  that  colouring,  like 
sound  in  music  or  poetry,  should  be  an  echo  to  the  sense  ;  and  ac- 
cording to  the  general  sentiment  the  subject  should  inspire,  it  will 
be  gay,  lively,  sombre  or  solemn. 

By  keeping  these  observations  in  view,  the  pattern  drawer  will 
have  an  extensive  field  for  the  display  of  his  judgment  and  taste,  in 
the  selection  and  arrangement  of  the  harmonizing  and  contrasting 
colours,  especially  if  he  examines  attentively,  the  order  in  whicli 
nature  commonly  disposes  them.  Thus,  for  example,  in  the  centre 
of  a  red  rose  he  will  find  a  )^ellow  tint  blended  with  the  orange  hue 
of  the  stamens,  while  the  petals  or  leaves  of  the  flower  are  red. 
These  tints,  agreeably  to  the  principles  of  which  we  have  been 
treating,  are  harmonizing  colours ;  while  the  calyx  or  cup,  which 
comes  in  contact  with  the  petals,  as  well  as  the  other  parts  of  the 
shrub  are  green,  the  natural  contrasting  colour  of  red.  Examples 
of  the  contrasting  colours  on  flowers  will  be  found  in  some  species 
of  the  violet,  the  wall  flower,  and  many  other  productions  of  the 
flower  garden. 

In  the  finest  specimens  of  Persian  and  Turkish  carpets,  the  deep 
tones  of  indigo  and  brown  predominate,  while  the  bright  hues  and 
tints  only  appear  in  detail,  and  heighten  the  effect  of  the  pattern. 

For  the  majority  of  the  foregoing  observations  on  design  and 
colouring,  we  are  indebted  to  Mr.  Hay's  work  on  colour*  the  best 
and  cheapest  practical  work  on  the  subject,  and  one  which  to  the 
professional  man  and  to  the  student  is  indispensable. 

DESIGN  PAPER. 

Patterns  require  to  be  painted  on  design  paper  before  they  can  be 
lashed.  It  is  commonly  printed  from  an  engraved  copper  or  steel 
plate  upon  stout  white  paper  :  it  consists  of  straight  lines  running 
at  right  angles ;  the  spaces  between  which  lines  represent  the 
threads  of  warp  and  weft. 

*  The  Laws  of  Harmonious  Colouring.    By  D.  R.  Hay :    W.  S.  Orr. 

1838. 


DRAW    LOOM.  179 

The  varieties  of  design  paper  in  common  use  are,  8  by  8,  8  by 
9,  8  by  10,  8  by  11,  8  by  12,  8  by  13,  8  by  14,  8  by  16,  and  10 
by  10.  A  specimen  of  8  by  8  is  shown  in  Fig.  70,  and  it  will  be 
observed,  as  the  name  imphes,  that  it  has  eight  white  spaces  both 
ways  in  the  design.  In  using  these  varieties  for  draw  loom  pat- 
terns, 8  is  commonly  considered  the  simples  or  mails  in  a  design, 
and  the  variable  numbers  9,  10,  11,  &c.,  the  lashes,  to  adapt  the 
pattern  either  to  the  quantity  of  weft  on  the  ground  or  the  number 
of  picks  on  each  lash.  In  some  cases,  however,  the  variable  figures 
represent  the  simple  cords  and  8  the  lashes ;  which  adds  considera- 
bly to  the  number  of  varieties  above  specified.     See  page  507. 

DESIGNING  PATTERNS. 

This  is  perhaps  the  most  important  as  well  as  the  most  delicate 
process  connected  with  figured  weaving ;  for  it  is  on  a  judicious  se- 
lection and  extensive  variety  of  patterns,  combined  with  economy 
in  the  disposal  of  colours,  that  the  greatest  chances  of  success  de- 
pend. The  manufacturer,  therefore,  though  no  designer  himself, 
should  possess  a  knowledge  of  drawing,  or  at  least  of  sketching,  so 
as  to  be  able  to  communicate  his  ideas  to  the  pattern  drawer,  and 
to  make  a  tasteful  selection  from  the  productions  of  others. 

The  qualifications  of  a  pattern  drawer  who  would  excel  in  his 
profession  are  by  no  means  of  a  superficial  nature.  A  facility  in 
sketching  or  delineating  any  object  that  may  present  itself,  Avhelher 
natural,  artificial,  or  imaginary,  combined  with  a  thorough  knowl- 
edge of  tlie  principles  of  weaving,  at  least  with  those  branches  with 
which  he  is  more  immediately  connected,  are  indispensable  requi- 
sites. The  pattern  drawer,  like  the  poet  and  the  painter,  ought  to 
possess  a  strong  and  lively  imagination,  to  be  deeply  impressed  witii 
the  beauties  of  nature,  and  to  be  able  to  draw  from  thence  the  prin- 
cipal effect  of  his  designs.  A  chaste  taste  also  is  as  necessary  in 
the  pattern  drawer  as  in  the  manafacturer  ;  and  this  will  be  greatly 
improved  by  a  little  knowledge  of  geometry,  particularly  symmetry 
and  proportion ;  for  nothing  can  be  more  offensive  to  a  person  of 
genuine  taste  than  a  pattern  crowded  with  an  incongruous  assem- 
blage of  distorted  objects,  as  for  instance,  dwarfs,  knockneed  night 
owls,  straight-legged  curlews,  crook-necked  cormorants  (fcc. 

Pattern  drawers  have  frequent  occasion  to  copy  extensive  patterns 
from  the  cloth,  such  as  coloured  shawls,  vestings  and  furniture 
stuflfs.  This  is  easily  effected  by  laying  a  sheet  of  transparent 
paper  over  the  pattern  to  be  copied,  so  that  every  object  and  colour 


180 


THE    ART    OF   WEAVING. 


may  be  distinctly  traced  through  it  with  a  black  lead  pencil.  The 
pattern  may  afterwards  be  transferred  to  a  sheet  of  clean  drawing 
paper,  by  means  of  tracing  paper,  and  a  steel  point,  and  coloured 
in  the  same  manner  as  the  original. 

To  make  transparent  paper,  a  sheet  of  silk  or  tissue  paper  may 
be  brushed  over  with  sweet  oil,  until  it  be  thoroughly  wet,  and  when 
it  has  been  allowed  to  dry  it  will  be  fit  for  use.  But,  as  this  paper 
will  sometimes  become  dim  by  exposure  to  the  air,  the  following  re- 
ceipt is  recommended  : 

Take  one  quart  of  the  best  rectified  spirits  of  turpentine,  and  add 
to  it  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  sugar  of  lead,  finely  powdered  ;  shake 
it  up,  and  let  it  stand  twenty- four  hours  ;  then  pour  it  oflf  (throwing 
away  the  sediment,  of  course,)  and  add  to  it  one  pound  of  the  best 
Canada  balsam  ;  set  it  in  a  gentle  hand  heat  till  it  is  quite  mixed, 
when  it  will  be  fit  for  brushing  over  the  paper. 


COMB  DRAW  LOOM. 


Fig  91 


After  the  introduction  of  Cross's  machine  among  the  Paisley 
manufactm-ers,  Dr.  Laughlin  Mc.  Laughlin,  of  Ballyshannon, 
(county  Donegal,)  Ireland,  made  some  slight  alterations  upon  it, 
(for  they  can  scarcely  be  called  improvements;)  in  the  mode  of 
lifting  the  cords  of  the  harness,  by  substituting  a  comb  or  combs, 
instead  of  trap  boards,  which  were  used  in  the  original.     In  the 


DRAW    LOOM. 


181 


Doctor's  modification,  the  tail  is  cut  short,  and  the  ends  of  the  cords 
are  tied  perpendicularly  in  a  board  or  frame,  which  is  screwed  or 
nailed  to  the  top  of  the  machine,  as  represented  at  A  in  Fig.  80 : 
a  plan  view  of  this  board  is  given  in  Fig  81.  From  each  of  these 
perpendicular  cords,  a  simple  cord  B  extends  horizontally  over  the 
weaver's  head,  (the  position  of  which  will  be  evident  enough  from 
the  section  of  his  leg  seen  in  the  figure,)  and  is  fastened  to  the 
board  C,  (which  is  precisely  like  that  shown  in  Fig.  81,)  the  lashes 
hanging  below,  each  having  a  bol)  D  ready  to  be  pulled  by  the 
weaver's  hand,  instead  of  by  a  draw  boy.  A  little  above  the  point 
where  the  simple  cords  are  connected  to  the  perpendicular  or  neck 
cords,  there  is  a  knot  E  on  each  of  the  perpendicular  cords,  all  of 
which  knots  are  in  a  straight  line,  and  of  an  equal  height ;  and 
they  do  not  differ  from  those  marked  O  O  in  Cross's  machine.  Be- 
low these  knots  and  above  the  simple  is  placed,  upon  suitable  bear- 
ings, a  flat  board  F,  moving  upon  pivots  at  G  G,  one  edge  of  which 
is  indented  so  as  to  resemble  the  teeth  of  a  comb  (see  Fig.  82)  from 
which  useful  family  utensil,  no  doubt,  it  has  derived  its  name.  On 
the  side  of  this  board,  opposite  to  the  teeth,  is  nailed  a  long  arm  or 
lever  H  (see  Figs.  80,  82  and  84)  which  when  pulled  down  raises 
the  indented  side  or  teeth  ;  and  consequently  the  knot  cords  which 
have  been  drawn  into  them,  as  is  represented  at  I  Fig.  82. 


Fi^83 


K 


en 


Fig  84 


^    P 

> 


^ 


Gfl 


:sl 


The  wire  or  chain  J  (see  Fig  80)  connects  the  arm  H  wnih  the 
treadle  K,  which  treadle  is  distinct  from  those  used  for  working  the 


1S2  BARREL    LOOM. 

ground.  Hence,  when  any  shed  is  to  be  opened,  the  weaver  pulls 
down  the  corresponding  lash,  thereby  drawing  the  knot  cords  at- 
tached to  it.  between  the  teeth  of  the  comb  F.  as  before  stated :  he 
then  presses  down  the  treadle  K  with  his  left  foot,  keeping  it  pressed 
until  he  has  worked  over  the  ground  treadles,  with  his  right  foot, 
and  given  the  proper  number  of  picks  for  that  change  of  the  pat- 
tern. There  is  also  another  guide  board,  marked  L,  through  which 
all  the  perpendicular  cords  E  pass,  and  it  is  in  all  respects  hke  that 
marked  A  Fig.  SI.  The  comb  F  is  recovered  or  counterbalanced 
to  its  resting  place  every  tune  the  weaver  lifts  his  foot  from  off  the 
treadle  K.  by  means  of  the  weight  M  and  cord  X.  which  cord  pas- 
ses into  the  comb  F  and  is  made  fast  by  a  knot  at  O.  There  is 
also  another  knot  P  on  this  cord,  for  preventing  the  weight  M  from 
sinking  the  comb  F  too  low  tmder  the  knot  E  :,  all  this  will  be  seen 
to  greater  advantage  in  the  enlarged  section  Fig.  84.  The  cords  of 
the  lash  bobs  D  have  each  a  knot,  which,  when  the  bob  is  pulled 
down,  is  shpped  under  a  saw  cut  or  groove  in  the  board  Q.,  a  more 
perfect  view  of  which  is  given  in  Fig.  S3.  As  many  of  the  simple 
cords  B  are  connected  to  each  of  the  bob  cords  as  are  required  to 
form  one  lash  or  change  of  the  pattern,  and  of  course,  there  must  be  as 
many  bobs  as  there  are  changes  in  the  figme. 

We  would  remark,  that  in  Fig.  SO,  ordy  one  mail  S  and  one 
lead  T  are  shown,  to  avoid  confusion :  but  the  harness  does  not 
differ  in  construction  from  that  represented  in  Figs.  63  and  85. 


SECTION  SIXTH. 


BARREL  OR  CYLIXDER  LOOM. 

The  next  improvement  in  weaving  that  merits  our  attention,  is 
that  of  the  barrel  or  cyhnder  loom,  the  invention  of  which  is  claimed 
by  one  Thomas  Morton,  of  Kilmarnock,  Scotland.  This  improve- 
ment consists  in  using  a  barrel  or  c5-hnder,  on  the  surface  of  which, 
the  figure  or  pattern  to  be  produced  in  the  cloth  is  arranged  in  re- 
lief, precisely  in  the  same  way  as  tunes  are  disposed  on  the  barrel 
of  the  common  organ,  or  on  that  of  a  musical  box,  by  inserting  wire 


THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 


183 


staples  or  wooden  pins,  and  the  barrel  being  placed  upon  the  top  of 
the  loom,  these  staples  actuate  other  suitable  mechanism,  and  thus 
the  pattern  is  formed  upon  the  cloth. 


^  Fig.  87 


F3g92 


Fig.  85  represents  a  fi-ont  view  of  this  loom,  as  it  appears  when 
the  shed  is  formed.     A  is  the  barrel ;  B  a  spur  wheel  fastened  to  its 


184  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

end  by  the  screws  C  C  :  this  wheel,  by  means  of  proper  catches 
and  other  machinery,  to  be  hereinafter  described,  governs  the  rota- 
tion of  the  barrel  A,  so  as  to  give  out  a  hne  on  its  surface  at  each 
change  of  the  pattern,  equal  to  one  line  of  the  design  paper,  as  rep- 
resented in  Fig.  86,  which  figure  shows  a  plan  of  the  barrel  A,  with 
the  pattern  or  sprig  D  drawn  upon  its  surface  ;  E  is  the  slides  ;  F 
the  connecting  cords,  and  G  the  slide  roller  :  the  latter  having  a 
leather  strap  H  nailed  to  it,  in  order  that  the  cords  F  may  be  fast- 
ened thereto,  as  is  shown  in  Figs.  85  and  86.  The  slides  E  work 
in  the  slide  frame  I  I,  an  end  view  of  which  frame  is  given  in  Fig. 

85,  and  a  plan  of  it  in  Fig.  86  ;  it  is  fastened  at  each  side  by  the 
bolts  or  screws  J  J,  which  hold  it  in  its  proper  place.  Fig.  92  is  an 
end  view,  in  section,  of  the  barrel  A,  having  a  few  of  the  pattern 
staples  driven  into  it,  (by  way  of  example :)  these  staples  are  of  the 
various  sizes  or  lengths  to  suit  the  number  of  changes  required  in 
the  different  parts  of  the  pattern,  as   indicated  by  the  sprig  D,  Fig. 

86.  The  staple  No.  1  (see  Fig  92)  contains  three  lines,  and,  of 
course,  will  cause  the  warp  thread  or  threads  which  it  governs,  to 
be  lifted  three  times  in  regular  succession ;  the  two  lines  which  fol- 
low this  staple,  being  ground,  are  missed,  and  ten  hues*  are  taken 
for  the  staple  No.  2  ;  two  lines  are  missed,  and  one  is  taken  for  No. 
3  ;  one  line  is  missed,  and  one  is  taken  for  No.  4  ;  four  lines  are 
missed,  and  six  are  taken  for  No.  5  ;  one  line  is  missed,  and 
one  is  taken  for  No  6  ;  one  line  is  missed,  and  four  are  taken  for 
No.  7  ;  one  line  is  missed,  and  five  are  taken  for  No.  8  ;  and  the 
two  last  lines  on  the  right  hand  side  are  missed,  being  ground  or 
blank. 

The  neck  cords  are  arranged  in  a  row,  (similarly  to  those  of  Dr. 
McLaughlin's  machine,)  and  each  passes  through  a  suitable  hole  in 
one  of  the  slides  E,  which  holes  may  be  seen  at  K  in  the  slide  frame 
Fig.  86,  and  their  position  is  indicated  by  the  dotted  hne  L,  Fig.  85. 
The  tail  or  neck  cords  are  all  tied  to  their  respective  harness  twines 
immediately  above  the  two  wooden  rollers  M  (see  Fig.  85. :)  these 
rollers  keep  the  selvage  warp  threads  of  the  same  height  as  those 
in  the  centre  of  the  web  when  the  shed  is  formed.  N  N  is  the  har- 
ness board,  which  is  supported  by  the  framing  of  the  loom  at  O  O  ; 
P  P  P  P  are  mails,  and  0,0,0-0-  their  respective  lead  weights,  and 
both  these  leads  and  mails  are  precisely  of  the  same  form  as  those 

*  This  is  the  greatest  number,  or  length,  ever  taken  for  one  staple  ;  be- 
cause, if  more  were  taken,  the  staple  would  be  liable  to  bend  in  its  middle, 
owing  to  the  slides  E  driving  against  it  in  the  working  of  the  loom. 


BARREL    OR    CYLINDER    LOOM.  185 

of  the  draw  loom  (shown  in  Fig.  63.)  In  Fig.  85  there  are  four 
harness  cords,  R  R  R  R,  connected  to  the  first  tail  cord  at  S,  just 
above  the  rollers  M,  which  shows  that  in  this  example,  there  are 
four  repeats  or  parts  in  the  whole  tie  of  the  harness.  The  harness 
board  N  N  is  in  every  respect  like  that  of  the  draw  loom,  Fig.  66,  in 
which  figure  five  holes  are  shown  in  the  breadth  of  the  board  ;  one 
row,  therefore,  or  five  holes,  may  be  supposed  to  represent  five  of  the 
slides  E,  shown  in  Fig.  86. 

Now,  the  operator,  in  proceeding  to  tie  up  a  harness  of  this  de- 
scription, takes  the  first  front  hole  of  the  board  at  the  commence- 
ment of  each  repeat  or  part ;  and  if  it  is  to  contain  four  repeats,  as 
in  Fig.  8.5,  he  connects  those  four  cords  to  the  first  or  front  tail  cord, 
and  then  proceeds  to  the  second,  and  so  on  to  the  fifth  or  back  hole 
in  his  harness  board,  which  will,  of  course,  be  connected  to  the  tail 
cord  belonging  to  the  fifth  slide.  For  the  sake  of  illustration,  we 
have  numbered  these  five  slides  in  regular  succession,  No.  1  being 
the  first  in  front  and  corresponding  to  the  front  hole  in  the  harness 
board  N  N,  and  so  on  to  slide  No.  5,  which  corresponds  to  the  last 
or  fifth  hole  at  the  back  of  the  harness  board.  When  one  row  is 
finislied,  the  operator  again  commences  at  the  front  of  the  harness 
board,  on  the  right  hand  side  of  each  of  the  first  rows,  tying  the 
four  first  cords  of  the  second  row  of  each  repeat  to  the  tail  cord 
passing  through  the  sixth  slide,  and  so  on  until  the  row  be  com- 
pleted, always  beginning  the  rows  as  at  first,  and  proceeding  regu- 
larly over  them  until  all  the  harness  is  tied. 

The  pattern  must  be  read  off  from  the  design  paper  on  to  the 
barrel  A,  as  represented  in  Fig.  86 ;  but,  previous  to  this  process, 
however,  it  is  necessary  to  line  ofif  the  barrel,  so  as  to  give  its  surface 
the  appearance  of  design  paper,  and  without  which  preparatory 
operation,  the  pattern  could  not  be  read  on  properly  :  this  lining  is 
effected  in  the  following  manner : — One  of  the  slides  E  is  sharpened 
to  a  point,  as  represented  at  T,  Fig.  86,  which  point  is  kept  pressed 
by  the  finger  of  the  principal  operator  against  the  barrel  A,  while  a 
second  person  causes  the  barrel  to  revolve,  by  which  means,  a  mark 
or  line  is  made  round  its  surface,  like  those  shown  in  Fig.  86.  It 
may  be  observed,  that  none  of  the  slides  E  are  inserted  in  the  frame 
1 1  until  the  barrel  A  has  been  chequered  as  shown  in  the  figure; 
because,  if  they  were,  the  pointed  slide  T,  could  not  be  moved  along 
from  hole  to  hole  in  the  frame  1 1,  as  the  marking  or  scoring  pro- 
ceeded. Each  of  the  lines  thus  made  round  the  barrel  A  must  be 
directly  opposite  to  the  centre  of  a  slide,  in  order  that  the  slides  may 
afterwards  strike  fairly  on  the  staples. 

24 


186  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

The  operator  now  proceeds  to  cross-line  his  barrel  (from  right  to 
left)  by  laying  a  ruler  or  straight-edge  along  the  length  of  it,  par- 
allel to  its  axis  ;  the  ends  of  which  ruler  rest  on  each  side  of  the 
frame  of  the  machine,  and  perfectly  level  with  the  slide  frame  1 1. 
He  affixes  to  the  end  of  the  barrel  A  a  throated  pulley  U  (See 
Fig  85,)  around  which  is  adjusted  the  rope  or  cord  V  V,  passing 
over  the  pulleys  W  W,  and  attached  to  the  weights  X  and  X,*  the 
latter  of  these  weights  being  sufficiently  heavy  to  draw  round  the 
barrel  A  one  line  of  the  pattern  every  time  one  of  the  catches  Y  Y 
(one  of  which  is  seen  in  Fig  89)  is  elevated  from  the  side  of  one  of 
the  cogs  of  the  spur  wheel  B.  These  catches  are  fixed  in  the  stand 
or  support  Z,  which  is  bolted  to  the  frame  at  A'  A'  (see  Fig.  85  ;) 
in  this  stand  the  catches  are  kept  in  the  proper  position,  by  means 
of  a  wire  pin  B^  passing  through  them  ;  a  clearer  view  of  one  of 
these  catches  with  its  pin  B'  and  recovering  weight  C  will  be  had 
in  Fig.  89.  The  recovering  weight  C  of  each  catch  merely  serves 
to  bring  it  back  to  its  former  position  in  the  spur  wheel  B  after  it 
has  been  lifted  by  the  arms  D'  D'  of  the  tumbler  E'  ;  this  tumbler 
is  distinctly  represented  in  Figs.  85  and  90.  On  one  end  of  the 
tumbler  shaft  is  affixed  a  small  pellet  F',  which  works  in  a  gouged- 
out  pulley  G'  (see  Fig.  88,)  which  pulley  is  loose  on  the  end  of  the 
tumbler  shaft,  and  a  small  spring  catch  H'  is  screwed  to  it,  and  this 
catch  works  against  each  of  the  points  of  the  pellet  F'  alternately 
(see  Fig.  88.)     The  operation  of  these  parts  is  as  follows  : — 

Every  time  the  barrel  treadle  cord  I'  (see  Figs.  85  and  88)  is 
depressed,  the  pulley  G'  having  the  spring  catch  H'  screwed  to  it, 
will  cause  the  pellet  F'  to  turn  to  the  right,  and,  if  the  treadle  cord 
I'  be  of  the  proper  length,  the  two  points  of  the  pellet  F'  will  ex- 
change positions.  The  cord  I',  being  connected  below  to  the  barrel 
treadle  J',  as  in  Fig  85,  when  the  weaver  lifts  his  (left)  foot  from 
off  this  treadle,  the  weight  R'  will  recover  the  pulley  G'  to  its  former 
position,  as  shown  in  Fig.  88,  the  spring  catch  H  slipping  over  one 
of  the  points  of  the  pellet  F'.  The  whole  of  the  apparatus  in  Fig. 
88  is  kept  in  its  proper  position  by  means  of  the  knot  L'.  The 
spring  M'  bears  against  the  tumbler  shaft  in  such  a  manner  that  at 
whatsoever  point  or  place  the  spring  catch  H'  leaves  the  pellet  F',  it 
will  there  remain  ;  and  this  prevents  any  part  of  the  apparatus 
from  interfering  with  the  catches  Y  Y  during  the  operation  of  the 
loom.  The  knot  N^  (see  Fig.  88)  holds  the  cord  in  the  throat  of 
the  pulley  G'. 

When  the  operator  proceeds  to  line  off  or  score  his  barrel  length- 
wise, as  before  stated,  he  lifts  the  catches  Y  Y,  each  alternately, 


BARREL    LOOM.  187 

and  draws  a  line  or  score  for  every  time  a  catch  is  lifted.  The 
weight  X*  causes  the  barrel  A  to  move  half  a  tooth  or  interval  to 
each  line  only,  and  consequently  each  of  the  catches  Y  Y  must 
only  be  half  the  thickness  of  one  interval  between  the  teeth  or 
dents  of  the  spur  wheel  B  ;  for,  if  each  catch  fitted  between  two  of 
the  teeth,  although  one  of  the  catches  were  lifted,  still  the  weight 
X*  could  not  move  the  barrel  A,  as  the  other  catch  would  hold  it 
fast :  and  if  both  catches  were  elevated  at  once,  this  weight  would 
instantly  run  down  as  far  as  the  cord  would  permit,  or  until  stopt 
by  some  other  means,  such  as  the  floor  of  the  weaving  room,  and 
thus  spoil  the  operation,  but  to  avoid  this  evil,  each  of  the  catches 
Y  Y,  as  before  observed,  is  only  half  the  thickness  of  the  space  be- 
tween the  teeth  or  dents  of  the  wheel  B,  and  they  are  so  arranged, 
that  the  one  to  the  left  hand  side  bears  against  the  inside  of  one 
tooth  and  the  other  to  the  right  bears  against  the  inside  of  another 
tooth,  thus  leaving  half  a  space  empty  inside  of  each  catch,  one 
tooth  being  in  the  centre  between  them. 

Now,  suppose  the  barrel  A  to  be  pulled  by  the  weight  X*  towards 
the  right,  as  in  Fig.  S5,  tlie  tmnbler  shaft  E'  causing  the  left  hand 
catch  (which  was  inside  the  tooth  and  bearing  against  it)  to  be  ele- 
vated, it  is  evident  that  the  weight  X*  would  directly  cause  the 
barrel  A  to  move  half  a  tooth,  by  bringing  the  right  hand  catch 
against  the  left  hand  side  of  the  tooth,  instead  of  the  right ;  and 
during  these  movements  the  first  catch  would  recover  its  former 
position,  by  dropping  into  a  new  interval  towards  the  left  hand  side, 
the  weight  X*  drawing  the  barrel  against  the  other  catch  before  the 
first  had  time  to  interfere  by  dropping  into  the  place  from  which 
the  second  was  moved  :  thus  the  gradual  motion  is  communicated 
to  the  barrel  A.  The  operator  draws  a  line  or  score  along  the  face 
of  the  barrel,  parallel  to  its  axis,  every  time  he  lifts  one  of  the 
catches  Y  Y,  until  the  entire  circumference  of  the  barrel  be  lined 
off. 

Particular  care  should  be  taken,  that  the  cross  lines  come  directly 
in  a  range  with  the  centre  of  the  slides  E,  so  that  these  may  strike 
correctly  on  the  staples  or  pins  of  the  barrel  in  the  operation  of 
weaving  ;  for,  unless  the  slides  strike  correctly  on  the  centres  of  the 
lines  both  ways,  the  pattern  will  be  imperfect,  as  the  comb  will 
miss  the  knots  of  the  tail  cords  (which  part  of  the  apparatus  will  be 
described  hereafter.) 

It  is  necessary  to  mark  upon  the  barrel  A  a  correct  representation 
of  the  design  or  pattern  to  be  woven  in  the  cloth,  such  as  is  shown 
by  the  sprig  D,  in  Fig  86.     The  sprig  D  is  given,  for  the  sake  of 


188  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

illustration,  with  the  small  squares  filled  up,  as  patterns  are  painted 
on  design  paper  ;  but  it  is  evident  that  the  slides  E  could  not  strike 
the  centres  of  those  squares,  their  points  being  directly  opposite  to 
the  lines  which  run  round  the  circumference  of  the  barrel  A.  The 
pattern,  therefore,  instead  of  being  marked  in  the  centres  of  the 
squares,  like  the  sprig  D,  must  be  marked  on  the  corners  of  them, 
or  Avhere  the  lines  cross  each  other  at  right  angles  :  a  specimen  of 
this  marking  is  given  at  O.  Fig.  86,  which  indicates  by  the  dots 
the  different  corners  or  crossings  where  the  staples  are  to  be  in- 
serted. Before  the  operator  drives  in  the  staples,  he  takes  a  brad- 
awl, such  as  that  shov\'n  at  50.  Fig.  87,  with  which  he  pierces  small 
holes  for  the  reception  of  the  points  of  wire  of  which  the  staples  are 
formed.  The  bradawl  50  is  held  in  the  left  liand.  and  the  mallet  70  in 
the  right :  and  as  soon  as  a  staple  has  been  driven  to  nearly  its  proper 
depth  in  the  barrel,  the  operator  uses  the  punch  60,  which  has  a 
saw  cut  in  its  face  sufficiently  wide  to  admit  the  staple  wire,  (which 
is  generally  No.  13  or  14:)  and,  as  the  depth  of  this  saw  cut  is 
exactly  the  same  as  the  height  to  which  the  staples  must  project 
from  the  surface  of  the  barrel,  the  punch  is,  therefore,  driven  until 
its  face  touches  the  barrel ;  by  these  means  the  staples  are  made  to 
project  with  the  same  height  all  over  the  barrel.  It  is  also  neces- 
sary that  the  staples  should  stand  perfectly  straight  or  plumb,  after 
they  are  driven  into  the  barrel ;  otherwise,  the  slides  E  would  not 
strike  fairly  upon  their  centres,  so  that  the  pattern  would  be  incor- 
rect upon  the  cloth  ;  but,  to  avoid  this  evil,  a  small  piece  of  sheet 
iron,  of  about  |-  of  an  inch  thick,  is  hollowed  out  at  one  of  its  edges, 
to  fit  exactly  the  circumference  of  the  barrel  A,  as  shown  at  P', 
Fig.  87,  and  the  opposite  edge  is  left  straight,  as  at  Q.',  the  ends 
being  perpendicular  to  it.  as  at  R'  R'.  When  the  stapler  has  driven 
a  staple  into  the  barrel,  as  aforesaid,  he  brings  the  guage  iron.  Fig. 
87,  against  it  until  one  of  the  ends  R'  R'  comes  in  contact  with  it, 
and  if  the  staple  be  crooked  or  inclined  to  one  side,  he  uses  the 
small  hammer  or  mallet  70  in  his  right  hand,  to  strike  it  to  its 
proper  position,  holding  the  guage  iron  in  his  left  :*  he  then  turns 
the  guage  iron,  by  bringing  its  edge  Q,'  in  contact  with  the  barrel 


*  Perhaps  it  is  necessary  for  tiie  reader  to  bear  in  mind,  that  in  all  our  des- 
criptions of  machinery  and  apparatus  given  in  this  '^'^''ork,  we  make  no  allow- 
ance whatever  for  that  portion  of  the  human  family  (male  or  female)  who 
are  so  unfortunate  as  to  have  the  most  essential  (in  weaving)  members  of 
their  bodies  misplaced ;  as.  for  instance,  a  left  hand  for  a  right,  a  right  foot 
for  a  left,  &c. 


BARREL    LOOM.  189 

longitudinally,  and  proceeds  to  straighten  the  staple  on  the  other 
sides  also,  if  necessary. 

We  shall  now  consider  the  mode  or  method  of  lifting  the  harness 
cords  R  R  R  R  by  their  respective  tail  cords : — Each  tail  cord,  as 
forjnerly  stated,  passes  through  one  of  the  slides  E,  and  after  de- 
scending about  8  inches,  a  knot  is  made  upon  it,  as  at  S',  Fig.  85 ; 
it  is  then  passed  through  a  hole  in  the  guide  board  T'  about  8  inches 
from  this  knot,  so  that  the  whole  distance  from  the  slides  E  to  the 
board  T'  is  about  16  inches.  The  knots  stand  in  a  row,  horizon- 
tally, and  are  i\  of  an  inch  or  thereabout  from  each  other.  U'  (see 
Figs.  85  and  91)  is  a  wooden  roller  of  about  4|-  inches  in  diameter, 
having  suitable  iron  gudgeons  driven  into  its  ends,  serving  as  an 
axis  on  which  it  turns  round.  On  one  end  of  this  roller  is  affixed 
a  throated  pulley  (like  that  marked  U  in  Fig.  86,)  in  which  a 
strong  cord  W  passing  over  three  fourths  of  its  circumference,  is 
made  fast.  A  small  groove  X'  (see  Fig.  91)  is  cut  out  of  the  roller 
U'  lengthwise,  of  the  dove-tail  form,  and  into  this  groove  the  back 
of  the  comb  which  lifts  the  knot  cords  is  inserted.  This  comb 
must  be  made  of  good  smooth  hardwood,  and  the  teeth  must  be 
formed  at  such  distances  apart  from  each  other,  that  each  tail  or 
knot  cord  shall  stand  directly  opposite  the  interval  between  two 
teeth,  without  interfering  with  them.  A  side  view  of  the  form  of 
these  teeth  is  given  at  Y',  Fig  91,  and  it  may  be  observed,  that 
they  are  turned  similarly  to  a  parrot's  bill,  but  upwards,  (whereas, 
the  bill  of  that  talkative  little  creature  is  generally  turned  down- 
wards,) so  that  they  may  more  efifectually  prevent  the  knot  cords 
from  dropping  when  the  weaver  is  opening  the  shed.  On  the 
reverse  side  of  the  throated  pulley  is  another  cord  Z'  with  a  stop 
knot,  and  with  a  weight  A^ ;  which  weight  recovers  the  comb 
roller  U'  to  its  proper  position  when  the  weaver  lifts  his  foot  from  off 
the  barrel  treadle  J'.  In  Fig.  85,  the  comb  roller  U'  is  represented 
with  the  shed  formed,  and  the  dotted  line  shows  the  position  of  the 
knots  S'  when  not  lifted.  The  teeth  of  the  comb  or  roller  U'  stand 
generally  about  f  of  an  inch  under  the  knots  S'  when  the  loom 
is  at  rest,  so  that  these  knots  may  be  thrown  into  them  to  form  the 
pattern,  as  represented  on  the  barrel  A.  The  knot  cords  against 
whose  slides  the  staples  strike,  are  lifted,  and  the  remainder,  not 
being  thrown  into  the  teeth  of  the  comb,  are  omitted,  and  thus  they 
serve  to  form  the  ground  of  the  fabric. 

We  shall  now  describe  the  manner  in  which  the  slides  E  are 
drawn  away  from  the  face  of  the  barrel  A,  so  as  to  allow  the 
weight  X*  to  turn  round  the  barrel  half  a  tooth  or  interval  to  each 


190  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

change  of  the  pattern : — A  small  cord  F  is  attached  to  each  slide, 
as  at  B-  B-  Fig.  86,  and  the  other  end  of  this  cord  is  made  fast  to 
a  leather  strap  H ;  which  strap  is  nailed  to  the  roller  G ;  and  this 
roller  has  a  throated  pulley  C-  on  one  end ;  a  cord  D'^  works  in 
the  throat  of  this  pulley  in  a  similar  way  to  that  of  the  comb  roller 
U'  and  it  is  connected  to  the  treadle  cord  I'  as  shown  in  Fig  85. 
Now,  it  is  evident,  that  if  the  barrel  treadle  J'  be  depressed,  the 
roller  G  will  draw  the  slides  E  away  from  the  surface  of  the  barrel 
A :  but  this  must  not  be  done  until  the  comb  roller  U'  has  taken 
hold  of  those  knots  which  were  thrown  into  its  teeth  by  the  staples, 
and  has  lifted  them  a  httle  above  the  other  knots,  which  remain 
stationary ;  and,  to  effect  this,  the  cord  D-  is  longer  than  the  cord 
W'  which  turns  the  comb  roller  U',  and,  therefore,  does  not  begin 
to  draw  away  the  slides  E  from  the  barrel  A,  until  the  comb  has 
been  raised  to  this  position :  if  the  comb  roller  U'  remained  at  rest 
until  the  slides  E  were  drawn  back,  and  then  came  into  action,  it 
would  lift  the  whole  of  the  harness,  instead  of  a  proper  change  of 
the  pattern,  because  all  the  knot  cords  would  be  thrown  into  the 
teeth. 

The  tumbler  cord  of  the  pulley  G',  shown  in  Fig  88,  is  connected 
to  the  barrel  treadle  cord  I'  in  the  same  way  as  those  of  the  comb 
roller  U'  and  slide  roller  G,  and  its  length  is  such  that  it  does  not 
begin  to  operate  upon  either  of  the  catches  Y  Y  until  the  slides  E 
have  been  drawn  back  from  the  barrel  A  ;  otherwise,  although  one 
of  these  catches  were  lifted,  the  weight  X*  could  not  draw  the  bar- 
rel round,  in  consequence  of  the  staples  commg  in  contact  with  the 
points  of  the  slides. 

If  we  suppose,  for  example,  the  spur  wheel  B  to  contain  400  teeth 
in  its  whole  circumference,  it  will  give  800  different  changes  of  pat- 
tern in  the  cloth.  If  the  design  is  what  is  termed  a  point  or  centre 
pattern,  which  consists  of  two  halves  exactly  ahke,  then,  as  soon 
as  one  half  has  been  woven  up  to  the  last  change  of  the  barrel,  the 
weaver  shifts  the  weight  X*  from  its  cord  to  that  marked  X,  and 
puts  the  latter  in  the  place  of  the  former  ;  when  he  again  begins  to 
work,  he  depresses  the  barrel  treadle  once  without  throwing  in  any 
weft,  (to  prevent  a  repetition  of  the  last  line  or  change  of  the  pat- 
tern ;)  \vere  this  not  done,  the  same  line  would  be  worked  twice 
over,  which  would  occasion  a  defect  in  the  cloth,  called  a  double 
point ;  he  throws  in  weft  for  the  next  line  of  the  barrel,  which  now 
turns  in  an  opposite  direction  from  what  it  formerly  did,  and  continues 
the  operation  otherwise  as  before.  Thus,  it  will  be  perceived,  that 
a  barrel  with  a  spur  wheel  containing  400  teeth  or  intervals  will 


BARREL    LOOM. 


191 


produce  a  pattern  on  the  cloth  of  1600  changes,  allowing  one  pick 
of  weft  for  each  :  but,  for  example,  if  8  leaves  of  headles  be  used, 
as  in  damask  weaving,  (which  see,)  and  as  many  treadles,  then, 
the  weaver  may  keep  dov\^n  his  barrel  treadle  J',  at  each  change  of 
the  pattern,  while  he  works  over  (with  his  right  foot)  the  8  ground 
treadles,  throwing  in  a  pick  of  weft  to  each  respectively  ;  con- 
sequently, there  would  be  8  picks  o'"  weft,  instead  of  one,  as  in  the 
former  case,  for  every  change  of  the  pattern  on  the  barrel  A ;  thus, 
12800  threads  of  weft  may  be  given  with  8  leaves  of  headles  for  the 
ground,  on  a  spur  wheel  of  only  400  teeth. 

The  position  of  tlie  ground  treadles  may  be  seen  in  Fig.  85,  and 
they  are  numbered  from  1  to  8  ;  the  front  leaves  of  headles  are  not 
shown,  but  they  are  in  all  respects  the  same  as  those  used  in  dam- 
ask weaving  (see  Gilroy's  damask  power  looms.) 

The  sides  of  the  slide  frame  I  I  are  4i-  inches  apart ;  the  wire 
of  which  the  slides  are  made  is  about  No.  8,  and  the  holes  in  them 
through  which  the  tail  cords  pass,  must  be  countersunk  both  above 
and  below,  and  well  pohshed,  so  that  they  may  not  cut  the  tail 
cords  ;  the  slide  roller  G,  is  generally  about  2  ft  inches  in  diameter, 
and  should  be  made  of  well-seasoned  wood. 

We  trust  that  from  this  description  of  the  barrel  machine,  (which 
is  the  only  one  ever  given  to  the  public,  of  any  practical  utihty, 
either  in  this  country  or  in  Europe,)  our  manufacturing  friends  will 
be  fully  enabled  to  understand  its  mechanism,  and  to  construct  it 
for  themselves. 

The  apparatus  represented  in  Figs.  88,  89  and  90,  is  of  our  own 
invention  ;  we  refer  to  the  pellet  F'  the  pulley  G,'  the  tumbler  shaft 
E',  with  its  arms  D'  D',  catches  Y  Y,  and  the  minor  parts  with 
which  they  are  connected.  This  combination  we  have  found  from 
experience  to  be  far  superior  to  the  endless  screw  or  worm,  used  by 
Mr.  Morton,  for  working  the  spur  wheel  B ;  because  the  screw  is 
sometimes  liable  to  give  out  more  than  one  line  of  the  pattern  on 
the  barrel  A  at  once,  and  at  other  times  it  does  not  give  out  so 
much  ;  in  either  of  which  cases,  the  pattern  is  injured.  We  think 
it  superfluous  to  give  any  details  regarding  this  screw  contrivance 
of  Mr.  Morton's  as  it  would  only  be  wasting  the  reader's,  and  our 
own  valuable  tune,  on  a  subject  of  no  practical  utihty  to  either 
weaver  or  manufacturer.  E.  K.  Arphaxad,  as  appears  from  his 
Oration  dehvered  before  the  Median  monarch.  King  Deioces,  seems 
to  have  been  thoroughly  acquainted  with  the  barrel  machine,  as 
constructed  by  Mr.  Morton.     (See  Introduction.) 


192  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 


JACaUARD  MACHINE  (FRENCH.) 

Shortly  after  the  introduction  of  tlie  barrel  machine,  from  the  East, 
by  Mr.  Thomas  Morton  of  Kihnarnock,  another  very  ingenious  ap- 
paratus, invented  by  M.  Jacquard,  a  native  of  Lyons,  was  smuggled 
from  France  into  England,  by  ]\Ir.  Stephen  Wilson,  silk  manufac- 
turer, (brother  to  Samuel  Wilson,  Esq.  late  Lord  3Iayor  of  London ;) 
and  its  pecuhar  mechanism,  no  less  tlian  its  acknowledged  utihty, 
renders  it  an  object  well  worthy  the  attention  of  both  weavers  and 
manufacturers. 

Like  many  other  great  inventions,  the  progress  of  this  machine 
was  not  near  so  rapid  as  its  merits  might  have  led  us  to  suppose, 
and  this  may  be  traced  to  two  causes  ;  the  first  of  which  was,  the 
opposition  of  interested  parties  (weavers)  who  erroneously  feared  that 
thev  would  be  injured  by  its  introduction  among  them  :  the  second 
was,  the  imperfection  of  some  of  the  movements  of  the  maclune 
itself,  which  its  mgenious  inventor  appears  to  have  been  unable  to 
obnate.  Although  M.  Jacquard  justly  deserves  the  honour  of  hav- 
ino-  first  constructed  a  machine  with  which  the  pattern  was  pro- 
duced by  means  of  pierced  cards  or  pasteboard  strips  working  against 
parallel  rows  of  needles,  still,  the  general  perfection  of  such  a  con- 
trivance, as  now  in  use.  must  be  ascribed  to  other  scientific  and 
practical  weavers,  both  in  Europe  and  America  ;  among  whom  we 
would  mention  the  following  : — In  France,  ^1.  Dioudonnat  and  M. 
Bosquillon,  Paris;  in  England,  Stephen  Wilson,  Esq.  and  John 
Dove  (foreman  to  Messrs.  Lee  and  Edward  Wilson,  silk  manufac- 
turers, 124  Wood  Street,  Cheapside)  London ;  in  Scotland,  Claude 
Wilson,  James  Morrison,  H.  and  J.  Crawford,  Paisley,  and  Thomas 
Morton,  Kilmarnock  ;  in  America,  Ichabod  Hook,  Lowell,  Mass. 

But  to  proceed  to  our  subject,  a  loom  mounted  with  this  machine 
has  neither  tail,  simple,  nor  lashes ;  and  the  pattern  is  cut  out  on 
pieces  of  pasteboard,  (or  sheet  tin,)  which  are  connected  together,  so 
as  to  form  an  endless  chain,  as  represented  in  Fig.  97.  The  har- 
ness is  constructed  very  similarly  to  '•  Cross's  counterpoise  harness." 
Fig.  93,  is  a  front  elevation  of  the  Jacquard  machine,  as  it  appears 
when  at  rest,  showing  the  cyhnder,  pierced  with  holes,  for  carrpng 
round  the  endless  chain  of  pattern  cards  ;  Fig.  94  is  an  end  view,  or 
that  part  which  presents  itself  to  the  weaver  when  seated  on  his 
loom ;  and  Fig.  95  is  a  vertical  section,  taken  transversely  through 
the  machine,  showing  the  back  board  or  wire  guage  for  supporting 
the  ends  of  the  needles  and  keeping  them  in  their  proper  places ;  it 


JACaUARD    MACHINE. 


193 


also  shows  the  two  leather  straps  and  their  pulleys  for  lifting  the 
griir  frame. 


Fig.  93 


We  would  here  remark,  that  in  describing  the  drawings  just  al- 
luded to,  the  same  letters  of  reference  indicate  similar  parts  in  all  of 
them.  A  A,  Fig.  95,  is  the  frame  of  the  machine,  connected  by 
suitable  cross  bars  at  B  B  B  B ;  the  two  upright  posts  C  C,  one  at 


194 


THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 


each  end  of  the  machme,  support  the  cyhnder  frame  D  D,  beuig 
finnly  held  in  their  places  by  two  cross  pieces  or  bars  E  E,  one  of 
which  cross  pieces  is  very  visible  in  Fig.  94,  and  the  ends  of  both 

Fig.  94. 


are  shown  in  Fig.  93 :  into  these  are  inserted  the  pointed  screws 
F  F.  wliich  are  fastened  by  means  of  the  thumb  screws  G  G ;  these 
being  brought  against  the  cross  pieces  E  E  after  the  screw  points 


JACaUARD    MACHINE.  195 

H  H  have  been  inserted  into  small  brass  or  steel  bushes  on  the  sides 
of  the  cylinder  frame  D  D ;  in  which  bushes  these  screw  points 
work ;  while,  at  the  same  time,  the  frame  D  D  vibrates  or  swings 
upon  them :  this  frame  is  adjusted  by  the  screws  F  F,  so  that  the 
cylinder  1 1  may  be  Ijrought  fairly  against  the  needles,  or  horizontal 
wires,  that  are  to  play  into  the  holes  on  its  sides  or  faces.  A 
complete  row  of  these  needles,  on  an  enlarged  scale,  as  seen  from 
the  side  of  the  machine,  numbered  at  their  points  from  1  to  8,  is 
represented  in  Fig.  96.  J  is  a  bent  piece  of  iron,  seen  in  front  of 
the  machine  Fig.  93 ;  and  a  side  view  of  it  is  given  in  Fig.  94 : 
this  iron  piece  is  screwed  to  the  middle  of  the  two  cross  bars  which 
connect  the  sides  of  the  cylinder  frame  D  D,  and  these  bars  are 
mortised,  as  shown  at  K  K  Fig.  94.  The  cylinder  1 1  is  merely  a 
square  axis  ;  it  is  movable  upon  two  iron  pivots,  driven  into  its  ends, 
and  it  occupies  the  lower  part  of  the  frame  D  D.  The  four  sides  or 
faces  of  the  cylinder  are  pierced  with  holes  of  from  |^th  to  :f  th  of  an 
inch  in  diameter.  It  is  the  general  custom  to  have  2  spare  rows  of 
needles,  in  depth,  one  on  each  side  of  the  centre,  and  these  are  used 
for  working  the  selvages,  independently  of  those  which  work  the 
pattern.  In  a  machine,  for  example,  containing  400  needles  for  the 
pattern,  there  are  8  holes  in  breadth  and  52  in  length,  on  each  side 
of  the  cylinder,  as  represented  in  Fig.  96 :  one  row  is  left  blank,  as 
at  L  Figs.  93  and  95.  A  Jacquard  containing  600  pattern  needles 
will  have  12  holes  in  the  breadth  of  the  cyhnder,  and  50  in  length, 
besides  2  rows  for  the  selvages,  as  in  the  former  example.  The 
cylinder  1 1  has  8  knobs  M,  four  at  each  end,  and  6  of  these  may 
be  seen  in  Fig.  93 :  those  on  the  right  hand  end  are  made  of  box- 
wood, and  the  left  hand  ones  of  brass  ;  the  latter  are  riveted  into 
small  pieces  of  iron,  which  are  fastened  to  the  cylinder  by  the  screws 
N,  and  one  of  these  screws  is  shown  in  Fig.  93.  The  knobs  are  so 
arranged,  that  the  holes  O  O  0  O  O  O  of  the  pattern  cards,  Fig.  97, 
shall  lit  them  loosely,  in  order  that  each  card,  when  brought  upon 
that  side  of  the  cylinder  which  is  next  to  present  itself  to  the  nee- 
dles, may  lie  perfectly  flat  or  level  against  it :  the  screws  N  serve  as 
regulators  or  adjusters  for  this  purpose.  In  the  successive  applica- 
tion of  the  cards  P  P  P  (see  Fig.  97)  to  each  side  of  the  cyhnder,  the 
holes  O  O  in  each  card  must  always  fall  directly  opposite  to  those 
pierced  in  the  other  cards  throughout  the  whole  series  which  compose 
the  pattern,  so  that  the  knobs  M  may  carry  them  round  in  regular 
succession  during  the  operation  of  weaving.  Near  the  right  hand 
end  of  the  cylinder,  and  square  with  it,  there  are  two  square  plates 
of  sheet  iron  Q,  Q,  (see  Figs.  93  and  94,)  each  about  ^th  of  an  inch 


196  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

thick,  with  a  distance  between  them  of  from  1  ^th  to  Ih  inches; 
tliey  are  parallel  to  each  other,  and  are  kept  in  their  places  by  the 
square  part  of  the  gudgeon  of  the  cylinder  which  passes  through 
their  centres.  Four  small  pins  or  studs  R  R  R  R  connect  these  plates 
at  their  corners,  as  shown  in  Fig.  94.  and  two  of  them  are  repre- 
sented in  Fig.  93.  A  small  roller  is  placed  on  each  pin,  to  prevent 
them  from  being  worn,  and  to  diminish  the  friction  of  the  catches 
S  S,  which  turn  the  cylinder  round  upon  its  axis.  The  catches  S  S 
are  hung  upon  suitable  centres  inside  of  the  frame,  and  either  of 
them  may  be  brought  into  action  by  means  of  the  cord  T  ;  which 
cord  passes  over  a  pullej'  U  at  the  upper  part  of  the  machine  (see  Fig. 
93.)  and  thence  descends  to  a  convenient  place  for  the  weaver's 
hand,  where  a  knot  is  made  u}X)n  it.  to  be  passed,  when  required, 
into  a  saw  cut  or  notch,  like  those  in  the  trap  boards  of  Cross's  ma- 
chine. Fig.  72 :  below  the  knot,  there  is  a  small  wooden  bob  at- 
tached to  the  cord,  on  which  the  weaver  lays  hold  when  he  finds  it 
necessar}'  to  bring  the  under  catch  S  into  action,  and  slips  the  knot 
into  the  saw  cut,  as  before  described.  "When  this  is  done  the  cylin- 
der 1 1  turns  round  backward,  or  in  a  contrary*  direction  from  what 
it  formerly  did  ;  and  this  is  often  the  case  in  point  patterns,  in  which 
one  half  of  the  figure  is  exactly  the  same  as  the  other  half:  in  such 
a  case,  the  weaver,  by  working  regularly  over  his  cards  up  to  the 
last  one,  and  then  reversing  the  action  of  his  cyhnder,  saves  half  the 
cards  that  would  be  required  were  he  to  continue  turning  the  cyhn- 
der one  way  until  the  pattern  was  completed. 

AVlien  the  vreaver  requires  to  unravel  part  of  the  cloth  which  he 
has  just  woven,  in  consequence  of  some  defect,  such  as  is  produced 
either  by  the  breaking  of  warp  or  weft  threads,  or  by  using  a  wrong 
colour,  (wliich  very  often  happens  where  forty  or  fifty  are  necessary 
to  form  the  pattern,*)  he  brings  the  under  catch  S  into  play  against 
the  cylinder  head,  for  the  purpose  of  making  the  chain  of  cards 
move  backward,  in  order  to  find  the  particular  card  by  which  the 
pick  of  weft  nearest  the  reed  was  thrown  in  ;  and,  again  form- 

♦  Thirty  colours  (and  as  many  shuttles)  were  used  in  the  manufacture  of 
her  Majesty,  Q,ueen  Victoria's  coronation  dress;  and  276  were  employed  in 
the  production  of  Pope  Boniface's  night  shirt;  in  the  latter  of  which  fancy 
articles,  these  colours  were  so  arranged  and  blended  together,  as  to  display 
correct  likenesses  of  276  heretics,  each  suffering  under  some  species  of  torture 
ditferent  from  any  of  the  others  ;  and  thus  the  night  shirt  of  his  Holiness  con- 
tained not  only  a  greater  varietj' of  colouring,  but  also  more  terrible  speci- 
meos  of  design  than  ajiy  shirt,  perhaps  ever  manufactured  in  Europe. 


JACaUARD    MACHINE.  197 

ing  the  shed  by  it,  he  withdraws  the  pick  ;  and  thus  he  proceeds 
until  the  defective  part  of  the  cloth  is  entirely  unraveled. 

V  V  are  two  pieces  of  wood,  each  shaped  like  a  rake  (without 
teeth,)  and  its  stem  or  shank  passes  up  through  the  cross  bars  of 
the  frame  D  D  :  the  under  one  of  these  bars  has  a  square  hole  in 
it  at  each  end,  to  prevent  the  pieces  V  V,  which  are  also  square 
where  they  pass  into  these  holes,  from  turning  round  ;  those 
parts  of  these  pieces  which  pass  through  the  upper  cross  bar  are 
round,  and  have  spiral  springs  W  W  coiled  loosely  about  them ; 
the  upper  end  of  these  springs  bear  against  the  under  side  of  the 
top  cross  bar  of  the  frame  D  D,  so  as  to  press  the  pieces  V  V  down- 
ward against  the  pins  R  R  R  R  in  the  cylinder  head,  two  of  these 
pins  coming  under  them  every  time  the  cylinder  is  brought  into 
contact  with  the  needles,  so  that  the  springs  W  W,  by  pressing 
down  upon  the  shoulders  of  the  pieces  V  V  at  X  X,  keep  the  cylin- 
der 1 1  perfectly  on  a  range  with  the  needles  which  play  into  it. 
It  is  evident  that  while  the  cylinder  is  being  turned  round  for  the 
purpose  of  presenting  a  new  card  of  the  pattern  to  the  needles,  the 
springs  W  W  will  give  way  or  be  compressed,  so  as  to  allow  the 
cylinder  to  turn  past  its  centre ;  and  when  this  is  accomplished,  the 
cross  pieces  V  V,  by  means  of  the  springs  W  W,  will  immediately 
recover  their  former  position,  and  at  the  same  time  bring  the  cylin- 
der II  on  a  range  with  the  needles  ;  and  all  this  takes  place  during 
the  outward  motion  of  the  frame  D  D,  one  of  the  catches  S  then 
operating  upon  tlie  cylinder  head. 

Y  Y  is  the  griff  frame  for  elevating  the  perpendicular  wires  Z  Z, 
by  their  hooks  at  the  top  :  to  the  lower  ends  of  these  wires  the  har- 
ness is  connected,  as  at  A'  A',  Fig.  9G.  The  griff  frame  contains 
one  straight-edged  piece  of  iron  B'  for  each  row  of  hooks  in  the  ma- 
chine, and  these  pieces  are  inserted  into  the  ends  of  the  frame,  as 
at  C^  C,  Figs-  93  and  95.  A  side  view  of  one  row  of  hooks  is 
given  at  D'  D'  Fig.  96,  and  their  straight-edged  lifters  B'  B'  B'  in 
the  same  Fig.  are  shown  in  perspective.  The  centrepiece  E'  helps 
to  support  the  lifters,  through  each  of  which  a  suitable  mortise  is 
cut  to  lit  tightly  into  it ;  and  the  end  pieces  G'  G'  connect  the  sides 
of  the  frame  Y  Y  by  being  dove  tailed  into  them,  as  shown  at  H'  H' 
Fig.  91.  A  bent  piece  of  iron  I',  adjusted  at  its  back  end  by  a  nut 
and  screw  J',  passes  through  the  centre  of  the  back  cross  bar  Y, 
and  its  other  end,  which  is  square,  passes  through  a  square  hole 
in  the  front  cross  bar  Y  ;  and  to  prevent  these  bars  from  being  worn, 
a  small  iron  plate  K'  is  fastened  upon  each  by  the  screws  L'  L', 
which  may  be  seen  in  Fig.  93.     The  piece  of  iron  V,  after  hav- 


198  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

ing  passed  through  the  said  square  holes,  is  bent  to  the  right  hand 
side,  for  the  purpose  of  receiving  the  friction  roller  M',  which  works 
in  the  curvilinear  space  N',  of  the  curved  iron  J :  a  side  view  of 
these  parts  is  given  in  Fig.  94. 

The  lifting  of  the  griff  frame  is  accomplished  by  the  following 
means : — There  is  a  shaft  O'  O',  running  across  the  frame  of  the 
machine,  and  resting  on  suitable  bearings  at  each  end,  on  which  it 
turns ;  and  on  this  shaft  there  are  made  fast  two  wooden  pulleys 
P'  P',  to  each  of  which  is  attached  a  leather  strap  Q,'  Q,',  and  this 
takes  a  turn  round  three  fourths  of  the  pulley :  the  other  ends  of 
these  straps  have  holes  R'  R'  in  them,  through  which  two  iron 
spindles  pass,  and  these  spindles  are  kept  in  their  places  by  means 
of  heads  which  are  made  upon  them  at  one  end  and  screw  nuts  at 
the  other.  The  proper  position  of  the  straps  Q,'  Q,',  is  in  the  centre 
between  the  cross  pieces  Y  Y;  and  the  pulleys  P'  P'  should  be  of 
sufficient  diameter  to  permit  the  straps  to  hang  in  the  centre  of  the 
griff  frame,  so  that  this  frame  may  be  lifted  with  as  little  friction  as 
possible  in  the  operation  of  weaving.  On  the  right  hand  end  of 
the  shaft  O'  O',  and  outside  of  the  frame,  is  affixed  a  pulley  S' 
with  a  strong  strap  or  band  T'  nailed  to  it,  and  taking  a  turn  round 
three-fourths  of  its  circumference,  in  an  opposite  direction  to  the 
straps  Q,'  Gf  thence  down  to  a  treadle,  to  which  it  is  connected. 
When  the  weaver  depresses  this  treadle,  the  strap  T',  by  means  of 
the  pulley  S',  causes  the  shaft  O'  O',  with  the  pulleys  P'  P'  and 
straps  Q,'  Q,',  to  lift  the  griff  frame  Y  Y,  and  with  it  those  perpen- 
dicular wires  whose  needles  are  entered  into  the  holes  of  the  pattern 
cards  and  cylinder,  according  to  the  figure  to  be  produced  in  the 
cloth  ;  and  while  the  griff  frame  is  rising,  the  friction  roller  M',  being 
affixed  to  the  end  of  the  bent  iron  I',  throws  out  the  cyhnder  frame 
D  D  gradually,  by  working  in  the  curvihnear  space  N',  of  the  iron 
J,  and  brings  one  of  the  catches  S  in  contract  with  one  of  the  pins 
R  on  the  cylinder  head :  the  griff  frame  continuing  to  ascend,  by 
means  of  the  friction  roller  M'  working  against  the  inclined  part  of 
the  iron  J,  causes  the  cylinder  to  turn  round  another  side,  bringing 
with  it  a  new  card  of  the  pattern  ;  and,  when  the  weaver  lifts  his 
foot  from  off  the  cylinder  treadle,  the  griff  frame  descends,  leaving 
the  hfters  B'  B'  in  the  position  shown  in  Fig.  96 ;  which  Fig.,  as 
before  stated,  represents  one  complete  row  of  needles,  numbered  at 
their  points  which  pass  through  the  front  board  U',  against  which 
the  cyhnder  strikes,  (see  Fig.  94.)  It  will  now  be  perceived,  that 
by  working  the  strap  or  band  T'   (see  Fig.  95)  in  the  manner 


JACQ.UARD    MACHINE. 


199 


just  stated,  the  cylinder  I  I  will  be  turned  round  upon  its  axis, 
so  as  to  bring  a  new  card  against  the  needles  every  time  the 
weaver  depresses  his  treadle ;  and  thus  the  cards  of  the  endless 
chain  are  brought  into  action  in  regular  succession,  one  after 
another. 


i  ^    ,.,\;,N-^  ^N,>.  s.  ;  ;s;-»^^!^'^^,"J.c^f^.^' .  "J,V;'  "-^,''^^t4V^y;! 


200  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

The  wires  Z  Z  are  turned  up  at  their  lower  ends,  as  represented 
in  Figs.  94  and  96,  and  into  the  loops  thus  formed  small  rods  or 

slips  of  wood  V  V  are  inserted,  from  side  to  side  of  the  machine, 
one  rod  passing  through  each  row  of  needles,  and  the  ends  of  these 
rods  at  one  side  of  the  machine,  are  dove-tailed  into  a  cross  piece 
W  (see  Figs.  93  and  95)  which  prevents  them  from  turning  ;  their 
ends  at  the  other  side  are  round,  and  are  inserted  into  another  cross 
piece  W',  where  they  are  fastened  by  small  nails  or  brads :  the 
rods  fit  loosely  in  the  needles.  Four  small  cords  X'  X'  connect  the 
frame  W  W,  to  the  under  side  of  the  griif  frame,  as  shown  in  the 
Figs. ;  and  they  are  adjusted  by  the  shp  knots  Y'  Y'.  The  use  of 
the  frame  W  W  and  the  rods  V  V,  is,  to  prevent  the  hooks  D' 
from  turning  round,  or  from  bemg  thrown  out  of  their  proper  posi- 
tion during  the  operation  of  the  loom.  The  loops  or  turned  up  part 
of  the  wires  Z,  through  which  the  rods  Y'  V  pass,  are  usually  one 
inch  longer  than  the  intended  depth  of  the  shed  in  the  warp :  were 
this  precaution  not  used,  these  rods  would  be  lifted  out  of  the  loops 
when  the  griff  frame  was  raised,  so  that  the  hooks  D'  would  have 
nothing  to  prevent  them  from  turnmg  round ;  and  should  any  of 
them  get  out  of  their  proper  place,  the  rods  V  V  could  not  recover 
their  former  position  on  the  descent  of  the  griff  frame.  In  the 
French  machine,  from  which  we  made  these  drawings,  while  at 
Lyons,  the  loops  or  turned  up  part  of  the  wires  Z  were  4^  inches 
long,  and  the  shed  in  the  warp  was  3^  inches  deep :  these  propor- 
tions work  very  well. 

The  perpendicular  wires  Z  Z  should  be  made  of  No.  12  wire, 
and  the  needles  of  No.  14 ;  both  of  which  must  be  sufficiently 
tough  to  stand  the  process  of  bending  and  also  stiff  enougli  not  to 
give  way  in  the  operation  of  weaving.  Z'  Z'  is  a  wooden  box, 
called  the  spring  box  (see  Figs.  94  and  96,)  which  is  pierced  with 
as  many  holes  as  there  are  needles  in  the  machine,  and  into  each 
of  these  holes,  a  small  brass  spiral  spring  A^  A"^  is  inserted  (see 
Fig.  96  ;)  which  springs  are  generally  If  inches  in  length,  and 
nearly  ftths  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  and  they  are  made  of  No.  28 
wire  (which  should  be  very  elastic.)  Each  of  these  springs  bears 
against  the  back  end  of  a  needle,  as  at  B^  B^  Fig.  96  and  at  C 
Fig.  98  :  the  needle  represented  in  Fig.  98,  corresponds  to  that 
marked  No.  1  in  Fig.  96.* 

■*  It  is  not  perhaps  generally  known,  that  M.  Jacquard  did  not  employ  per- 
pendicular wires  like  those  marked  D '  D '  in  Fig.  96,  in  the  first  machines 
which  he  constructed,  but  knot  cords  and  trap  boards  Uke  those  shown  at 
Figs.  71  and  72. 


JACaUARD    MACHINE. 


Fig.  96. 


201 


/yyyyxy' 


Each  row  of  needles,  in  depth,  has  a  wire  pin  D-  D-  passed  through 
it  at  the  back  ends  of  the  needles,  and  the  ends  of  these  pins  are 
inserted  into  the  cross  rail  E-  above  the  needles,  and  into  the  cross 
rail  F-  below  them  ;  which  pins  serve  to  keep  the  needles  in  their 
proper  position,  as  shown  in  Fig.  96.  The  rails  E  and  F-  are  drawn 
in  perspective,  and  the  black  dots  indicate  the  position  of  the  per- 
pendicular wires  D-  D-,  as  well  as  the  distance  between  the  rows 
of  needles.  G-  G*^  (see  Figs.  95  and  96)  are  the  cross  wires  which 
support  the  needles.  The  holes  H^  H-  show  the  position  of  the 
springs  A^  as  they  stand  in  the  box  Z'  Z'  :  it  must  be  observed, 
that  this  view  is  in  perspective.  The  spring  box  Z'  Z'  is  bored  to 
within  about  about  \  of  an  inch  from  its  bottom,  as  at  P  I'  Fig.  96, 
We  may  here  remark,  that  we  ourself,  have  superseded  the  neces- 
sity of  using  the  spring  box  altogether,  and  also  made  several  other 
improvements  upon  the  Jacquard  machine,  particularly  in  a  new 
method  of  governing  the  griff  frame,  by  which  a  saving  of  power 
to  the  amount  of  50  per  cent  is  effected  :  these  improvements,  with 
many  others  which  belong  to  us,  are  fully  described  under  the  head 
of  ''  Gilroy's  patents"  (see  Index.)  But,  to  proceed,  the  needles  pass 
through  what  is  called  the  needle  board  U'  U',  against  which  the 
cyUnder  1 1  plays  :  this  board  is  about  |ths  of  an  inch  thick,  and 
the  points  of  the  needles  which  are  actuated  by  the  cards  project 

beyond  it  about  Iths  of  an  inch. 

26 


202  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

It  is  now  evident,  that  those  needles  which  are  pressed   back 
by  the  blank  or  uncut  parts  of  the  card  (represented  in  Fig.  97,) 

Fig  97. 


Fig.  98. 

vmmm^^ i)    ^  — = — ==^___. 

when  the  cylinder  is  brought  against  the  needle  board  U'  U',  will 
throw  back  the  wires  Z  Z  which  pass  through  them,  so  that  when 
the  weaver  elevates  the  griff  frame,  the  hooks  D'  of  these  wires 
will  be  missed  by  the  hfters  B'  B'  B',  and  all  the  others  will  be 
raised,  (see  Fig.  96.)  Each  card  represents  one  line  of  the  design 
paper,  and  by  all  the  cards  being  worked  over  in  regular  succession 
one  after  another  the  pattern  is  formed  upon  the  cloth. 

It  is  sometimes  of  advantage,  particularly  when  the  pattern  is 
heavy,  to  miss  the  hooks  connected  with  those  needles  which  enter 
the  holes  of  the  cards,  and  lift  the  others.  To  effect  this,  when  the 
cards  have  been  cut  in  the  usual  way,  the  position  of  the  lifters 
B'  B'  B'  must  be  reversed,  so  as  to  inchne  in  an  opposite  direction, 
and  the  hooks  D-  must  also  be  reversed  or  turned  round  :  the 
weaver  may  work  on  otherwise  as  before,  and  there  will  be  no  dif- 
ference in  his  cloth,  except  that  the  pattern  will  appear  on  the  under 
side  of  it,  instead  of  on  the  upper  side. 

The  thumb  screws  J^  and  lx)lts  K^  at  each  side  of  the  machine, 
serve  to  keep  the  spring  box  Z'  Z'  m  its  proper  place  at  the  ends  of 
the  needles,  as  seen  in  Figs.  94  and  96.  The  screws  L^  L^  (see 
Figs.  93  and  94)  are  used  in  adjusting  the  cyhnder,  so  as  to  an- 
swer the  points  of  the  needles  ;  they  push  against  the  under  side  of 
small  brass  bearings,  in  which  the  pivots  or  gudgeons  of  the  cylinder 
work  :  these  bearings  are  let  into  the  wood  of  the  cylinder  frame  D 
D,  and  are  kept  from  droppin?  out  by  small  pieces  of  wood  1\P  M^, 
which  are  dove-tailed  into  the  sides  of  the  cylinder  frame,  as  seen  in 
Fig.  93.  The  screws  L^  L-.  when  the  cylinder  has  been  adjusted 
by  them,  are  secured  from  turning  round  by  means  of  the  nuts  N^ 


JACaUARD    MACHINE.  203 

N^  which  are  brought  to  bear  tightly  against  the  under  ends  of  the 
frame  D  D  (See  Figs.  93  and  94.)  O^  is  a  bar  to  support  the 
middle  of  the  neck  board  ;  P-  P"^  are  pieces  of  leather  to  ease  the 
griff  frame  in  its  descent  (see  Fig  94  ;)  R^  R^  are  brass  slides  in 
the  sides  of  the  upright  pieces  C  C,  into  which  the  square  rods  S^  S~ 
are  screwed  to  the  ends  of  the  griff  frame,  with  the  screws  T'^  T'^ 
T^  T^.     (See  Fig.  95.) 

Lastly,  we  would  observe,  that  in  patterns  which  require  one  pick 
of  weft  only  to  a  point,  one  card  also  will  be  required  for  each  pick  : 
thus,  for  a  pattern  of  5000  picks,  there  must  be  5000  cards  like- 
wise :  but  in  fabrics  where  leaves  of  headles  are  used  to  produce  the 
giound,  from  2  to  16  picks  of  weft  are  usually  given  to  each  card 
or  change  of  the  pattern.  In  shawl  weaving,  when  two  colours  of 
weft  are  employed,  two  picks  of  weft  are  given  for  each  card,  one 
for  the  ground  and  the  other  for  the  figure ;  and  w^hen  a  greater 
number  of  colours  are  used,  there  must  be  distinct  cards  for  each. 
In  damask  weaving,  it  is  customary  to  use  8  leaves  of  headles  for 
the  ground,  the  w^eaver  throwing  in  either  4  or  8  picks  of  weft  for 
each  card  regularly  ;  and  if  only  4  are  thrown  in  for  one  card,  then, 
the  4  treadles  used  in  working  it  must  not  be  used  in  working  the 
succeeding  card,  but  the  other  4  treadles  must  be  employed  ;  other- 
wise, the  tweel  would  be  broken.  It  matters  not,  whether  the  weaver 
changes  his  cards  to  every  4  or  8  picks  so  long  as  he  continues  to 
work  his  treadles  in  regular  succession.  For  weaving  full  satin, 
16  leaves  of  headles  and  as  many  treadles  are  necessary  ;  but  the 
weaver  may  produce,  either  an  8  or  a  16  thread  point,  by  working 
over  the  half  or  the  whole  of  his  treadles  to  each  card. 

A  patent  was  granted  in  this  country,  bearmg  date  February  3d, 
1841,  to  Alexander  Calderhead,  of  the  city  of  Philadelphia,  Pa., 
for  placing  the  cyhnder,  cards  (fcc,  of  the  Jacquard  machine,  under- 
neath the  warp,  and  substituting  a  series  of  perpendicular  wires  or 
needles,  arranged  m  the  harness  board  in  parallel  rows,  each 
needle  representing  one  of  the  twines  or  sleepers  of  the  harness ; 
and  these  alterations  the  patentee  calls,  "  an  improvement  upon  the 
French  machine,"  as  described  by  us,  and  shown  at  Figs.  93  to  98. 
He  commences  the  description  of  his  apparatus  in  the  following  strain : 
"  I,  Alexander  Calderhead,  have  invented  (it  will  be  seen  in  the 
sequel  that  Mr.  C.  is  not  the  inventor  of  this  contrivance)  a  new, 
easy,  and  cheap  method  of  weaving  all  kinds  of  figured  cloth." 
This  method  consists,  first,  in  raising  and  lowering  the  threads  of 
the  w^arp  with  what  he  calls  "  independent  metallic  headles,"  in- 
stead of  the  weights,  mails,  twines,  &c.  composing  the  mounting 


204 


THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 


of  the  draw  loom  ;  and,  secondly,  "  in  constructing  the  cylinder  and 
pattern  cards  or  apron,  so  as  to  lift  directly  the  said  headles  or  wires, 
to  form  the  sheed  or  shire;*  or,  in  constructing  a  trunk  and  pattern 
web,  both,  to  direct  what  shall  be  the  sheed,  by  trapping  or  untrap- 
ping  the  hooks  or  knot  cords  to  be  drawn  up,  as  m  Jacquard  and 
draw  looms." 

Mr.  C.  uses  several  terms  here  which  we  do  not  recollect  of  hav- 
ing seen  applied  before  to  anything  in  the  way  of  weaving ;  trunk 
for  cylinder,  sheed  or  shire  for  shed,  heylds  for  headles,  foot  hoard 
for  treadle,  and  apron  or  pattei'n  web  for  pattern  cards  or  chain  of 
cards,  must  be  new  to  most  weavers,  and,  perhaps,  these  terms  form 
the  principal  part  of  the  invention. 

"I  (A.  C.)  make  the  heylds  or  perpendicular  wires,  for  a  Scotch 
imperial  three-ply  carpet,  of  No.  13  wire,  the  length  of  which  heylds 
is  24  inches.     A  head  A  (see  Fig.  99) 

Fiff.  99. 


t^nr^ B &^ 


R 


*  For  the  meaning  of  the  word  shire,  (in  weaving,)  see  Plain  Weaving, 
Section  First,  of  this  Work. 


JACaUARD    MACHINE.  205 

is  made  on  each  of  the  said  wires ;  and  14  inches  below  this  head 
the  wire  is  flattened,  as  at  M  M,  where  an  eye  is  punched  or  bored 
in  it,  and  these  eyes  are  substituted  for  mails.  The  wires  or  heylds, 
work  in  two  boards  C  and  D  (Fig.  99  :)  the  board  C  suspends  or 
hangs  them,  by  their  heads  A  ;  the  board  D  serves  as  a  guide  to 
direct  the  point  of  each  needle  respectively  throughout  the  series  or 
range  of  the  web  into  the  holes  of  the  trunk  B,  on  which  the  apron 
or  pattern  web  works.  I  (A.  C.)  make  the  boards  C  and  D  one 
inch  thick,  (each  we  suppose,)  5|  inches  broad,  and  4  feet  in  length, 
or  long  enough  to  work  on  the  slides  E  E,  (Fig.  99.)  I  (A.  C.) 
bore  the  holes  in  the  said  boards  C  and  D  large  enough  to  admit 
wires  about  2  numbers  coarser  than  that  actually  used,  say  for  No. 
11  ;  and  the  holes  of  the  trunk  and  pattern  apron,  I  make  |-  of  an 
inch  in  diameter,  (we  suppose  that  in  making  the  holes  of  this  size, 
allowance  is  given  for  atmospheric  variations.)  Each  row  in 
breadth  of  tlie  boards  C  and  D  contains  twelve  holes  ;  and  all  these 
rows  are  slanted  (see  Fig.  66,  draw  loom,)  so  that  the  back  hole  of 
one  row  shall  be  nearly  square  with  the  front  one  of  another  row : 
this  prevents  the  warp  threads  from  crowding  each  other.  The 
trunk  B,  pattern  web,  and  boards  must  be  of  the  breadth  of  the 
web  (curious  jargon  this !) ;  and  the  trunk  B  is  hollowed  out  the 
depth  of  the  sheed.  The  trunk  may  be  cast,  or  made  of  sheet  brass, 
brazed  together,  and  fixed  or  screwed  on  blocks  or  end  pieces  ;  and 
it  turns  on  an  axle  or  centre,  which  passes  through  the  slides  E  E  : 
these  slides  are  60  inches  long,  25  above  and  35  below  from  the 
point  where  the  axle  or  centre  of  the  trunk  B  passes  through  them. 
The  slides  E  E  are  kept  in  their  proper  positions  by  the  brackets 
or  guides  F  F,  and  they  are  connected  by  suitable  straps  to  beams* 
L  L  ;  these  beams  are  supported  at  the  top  framing  of  the  loom  by 
the  hai>gers  1 1,  and  to  their  ends  4  rods  H  H  are  suspended.  (Only 
two  of  these  can  be  seen  in  the  Figs.)  The  rods  H  H  are  con- 
nected to  the  board  C  (as  shown  in  Fig  99,)  two  at  the  front  and 
two  at  the  back,  for  the  purpose  of  raising  and  depressing  the  board 
C  when  required,  n,  n,  are  metallic  rods,  which  pass  through  the 
board  C,  and  are  screwed  or  otherwise  secured  to  the  board  D  :  the 
ends  Q,  Q-  of  these  rods  guide  the  board  D,  and  keep  it  in  its  proper 
place.  The  under  extremities  of  the  slides  E  E  are  attached  to  the 
ends  of  the  lever  or  cross  bar  R,  (which  may  also  be  seen  at  B^ 
Fig.  100  :)  on  the  ends  or  axis  of  the  trunk  B  is  a  4  toothed  wheel 
P  (see  Fig.  101,)  for  the  purpose  of  turning  the  trunk  B,  which  is 

*  Jacks,  not  beams. 


206 


THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 


Fig.  101 


Fig.  102. 


caught  in  its  descent  by  the  hooks  T  T  (see  Fig.  99,)  attached  to 
the  frame  of  the  loom  at  S  S. 

W  W  are  levers,  which  work  in  the  sUdes  E  E,  and  are 
pressed  by  springs  K  K,  in  order  to  bring  and  keep  the  tmnk 
square  (as  is  well  understood,  of  coiu-se,  bemg  so  hke  the  ap- 
paratus used  for  a  siQiilar  purpose  in  common  Jacquards)  the  levers 
W  W  are  more  clearly  shown  at  u'^,u^,{Fig.  102.)  Z  Z  (Fig. 
99)  are  two  sHdes,  one  at  each  side  of  the  machine,  which  pass  the 
hooks  T  T  from  one  side  of  the  toothed  wheels  P  to  the  other,  so  as 
to  make  the  trunk  B  revolve,  either  backward  or  forward  (a  view  of 
one  of  these  levers  Z  will  be  had  in  Fig.  101.)  The  operation  of 
the  machine  is  as  follows : — " 

"  The  foot  board  or  treadle  O  (see  Fig.  99)  of  tlie  lever  or  bar  K, 
by  being  pressed  down  wnith  the  foot,  raises  up  the  slides  E  E,  the 
trunk  B,  and  the  guide  board  D,  and  lowers  the  rest  board  C :  this 
allows  the  heylds  or  wires  to  pass  into  the  trunk  B  wherever  holes 
are  cut  or  punched  out  on  the  pattern  card  or  cards."'     (Every  alter- 


JACQUARD    MACHINE.  207 

nate  wire  is  represented  in  Fig.  99,  as  being  raised,  and  this  would 
cause  the  warp  threads  passing  through  their  eyes  M  M  to  be  raised 
also ;  and  if  these  wires  were  raised  and  depressed  alternately  with 
the  others,  plain  cloth  might  be  produced.)  "  When  the  weaver 
lifts  his  foot  from  off  the  foot  board  or  treadle  O,  the  wheels  P  P 
(see  Fig.  101,)  on  the  axis  of  the  trunk  B,  are  caught  by  the  hooks 
T  T,  and  these  hooks  cause  the  trunk  to  turn  one-fourth  part  of  a 
revolution."  (One  of  the  hooks  T  may  be  seen  at  F^  Fig.  101, 
and  the  cylinder  treadle  O  is  distinctly  shown  at  O'^  Fig.  100:  in 
Fig.  100,  R^  indicates  the  position  of  the  lever  or  bar  R,  and  B'^  that 
of  the  slides  E  E,  for  raising  and  depressing  the  cyhnder  B.) 

The  enlightened  patentee,  the  said  A.  C,  claims,  "  the  exclusive 
right  to  make  the  above  specified  machine,  to  suit  all  kinds  of 
flowered  cloth."  He  also  claims,  "  the  principle  of  lifting  the  sheed 
or  shire  (not  county)  with  metallic  heylds,  directly  by  the  pattern 
apron  and  tmnk  (not  portmanteau)  roll  or  receiver,  or  hy  lower- 
ing the  heylds  into  the  same,  as  described^ 

We  have  quoted  above,  Mr.  C's  own  words,  in  order  that  our 
readers  may  judge  correctly  of  his  pretensions  as  a  weaver.  If  he 
is  as  ignorant  of  mechanics  as  he  appears  to  be  of  the  proper  names 
of  the  different  parts  of  the  common  loom,  we  need  not  be  astonished 
although  he  tells  us,  that  a  machine,  such  as  that  represented  in 
Figs.  99,  100,  101,  and  102,  "  will  manufacture  all  kinds  of  flow- 
ered cloth." 

The  patentee,  Calderhead,  speaks  of  making  "  a  Scotch  imperial 
three-ply  carpet"  with  his  machine ;  but,  let  us  see  how  he  could 
accomplish  this  :— In  the  first  place,  suppose  a  carpet  36  inches  in 
breadth,  and  containing  1800  threads  of  warp  from  selvage  to  sel- 
vage ;  in  this  case  1800  needles  or  headles  would  be  required,  and 
the  pattern  cards  and  cyhnder  B  would  require  to  be  36  inches  each, 
in  length  ;  suppose  each  of  the  holes  in  the  cylinder  B  to  be  :|  of  an 
inch  in  diameter,  (as  stated  by  the  intelligent  patentee;)  and  after 
making  the  necessary  allowance  for  the  metal  left  uncut  between 
the  holes,  perhaps  3  holes  might  be  got  on  an  inch ;  then,  as  there 
are  12  holes  in  the  row  across  the  cylinder  B,  there  would  be  36 
holes  in  one  inch  of  the  length  of  it,  and  likewise  36  needles  on  one 
inch  across  the  web ;  so  that  in  the  whole  breadth  of  the  web,  (36 
inches,)  there  could  only  be  1296  needles,  and,  of  course,  the  same 
number  of  threads,  instead  of  1800.  But,  some  kinds  of  figured 
goods  contain  from  400  to  650  threads  of  warp  per  inch ;  and  it 
often  happens  that  a  web  has  as  many  as  16,000,  or  20,000  threads 
in  it,  from  selvage  to  selvage,  so  that  on  the  above  principle,  16,000 


208  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

or  20,000  needles,  and  the  same  number  of  holes  in  the  cylinder 
Avould  be  required  in  such  a  case  :  besides,  a  web  of  this  kind  is 
very  frequently  SO  or  120  inches  broad,  and  would  require  from 
16,000  to  20,000  cards  to  produce  the  pattern.  "We  question  the 
applicability  of  the  "  he]/lds,  trunk''  and  '•  apron'  to  webs  of  this 
description,  unless  the  needles  could  be  made  of  wire,  at  least,  as 
fine  as  No.  60  or  70  ;  and,  moreover,  cards  80  or  120  inches  long 
mig-ht  be  found  somewhat  diificult  to  manage,  at  least,  this  is  our 
opinion.  Before  dismissing  this  subject  we  would  mention,  that 
one  of  the  most  extraordinary  specimens  of  silk  weaving,  per- 
haps, ever  executed,  was  exhibited  at  Mr.  Morrison's  late  conversa- 
zione given  to  the  members  of  the  Institute  of  British  Architects. 
It  was  a  portrait  of  Jacquard,  representing  that  extraordinary  man 
in  his  workshop  surrounded  by  his  implements,  and  planning  the 
construction  of  that  beautiful  machinery,  which  now^,  in  its  increased 
perfection,  returns  this  testimony  to  the  genius  of  its  inventor.  This 
work,  worthily  entitled  '■'•  Hoimnage  a  J.  M.  Jacquard,"  was  woven 
with  such  truth  and  delicacy  as  to  resemble  a  fine  Une  engraving : 
it  was  executed  by  Didier,  Petit  &  Co.  There  were  1,000  threads 
in  each  square  inch  (French,)  in  both  the  warp  and  the  weft ;  and 
24,000  cards  were  used  in  the  manufacture,  each  card  large  enough 
to  receive  1,050  holes. 

But,  to  conclude,  we  would  state,  for  the  information  of  our  read- 
ers, that  we,  ourself,  made  a  machine  on  the  same  principle  as  that 
claimed  by  Mr.  Calderhead,  as  far  back  as  Jan.  1833,  (for  manu- 
facturing common  ingrain  carpeting  ;)  and  a  patent  for  which  was 
granted  to  Claude  Marie  Helaire  Molinard,  of  Bury  Street,  St.  Mary 
Axe,  in  the  city  of  London,  merchant,  bearing  date  9th  April  1833  ; 
(see  vol.  15,  Conjoined  Series,  of  the  London  Journal  of  Arts  and 
Sciences,  for  the  year  1840,  pages  286  and  287,)  so  that  Mr.  C's 
patent  is,  in  point  of  fact,  null  and  void.  We  may  also  remark, 
that  a  friend  of  ours,  in  Loudon,  "William  Webb,  Esq.,  of  the  firm 
of  James  Jacquier  &  Co.,  No.  1  Wood  St.,  Spitalfields,  showed  us 
a  machine,  in  the  year  1836,  differing  in  no  respect  from  that  con- 
structed by  Mr.  C,  and  represented  in  Figs.  99,  100,  101,  and  102 ; 
and,  no  doubt,  Mr.  Webb  would  be  glad  to  furnish  any  number  of 
them  to  order,  to  whom  we  would  recommend  those  of  our  friends 
who  want  such  articles  to  make  application  forthwith.  Perhaps 
machines  of  this  description  might  be  found  of  advantage  in  the 
manufacture  of  horse-blankets.  (See  Arkite  Ghiden  Ghelen's  loom. 
Fig.  A.  Introduction.) 

The  pattern  cards  P  P  P  Fig.  97,  are  cut  (in  small  estabhsh- 


JACaUARD    MACHINE. 


209 


ments)  between  two  steel  plates,  like  those  represented  in  Figs.  103 
and  104. 


C 


Fig.  103. 


OoOOOCOOO 


oto  3aooc-ooi.^ooo50cooo    oooooooooooof  oovoooooco    l-e 


On??:?s^ 


o 


The  holes  A  A,  in  these  plates,  correspond  to  those  of  the  cylin- 
der shown  in  Figs.  93  or  99.  B  B  (Figs.  103  and  104)  are  large 
holes  to  fit  on  the  knobs  M  M  in  Figs.  93  and  94  ;  C  C  are  hinges 
which  connect  the  plates,  and  they  must  be  well  fitted,  so  that  the 
plates  may  present  no  impediment  to  the  punching  of  the  paste- 
board or  card  paper,  when  it  is  placed  between  them  ;  D  D  are 
handles  attached  to  the  upper  plate,  by  which  the  operator  raises  or 
lowers  it,  when  he  v/ishes  to  take  out  or  put  in  a  card  ;  the  large 
holes  B  B  correspond  to  those  marked  0  0  0  Fig.  97. 

The  method  of  cutting  cards  in  these  plates,  from  the  design 
paper  or  pattern,  is  so  well  known  to  all  persons  having  the  least 
knowledge  of  figured  weaving,  that  we  need  give  no  further  des- 
cription of  it  in  this  place.  We  would  state,  however,  that  on  this 
plan,  an  active  man  can  only  cut  from  100  to  150  cards  per  day  ; 
whereas,  on  the  great  French  card-cutting  apparatus  or  machine, 
(to  which  the  reader  is  referred,)  he  can  cut  from  2.500  to  3000, 
with  the  assistance  of  a  boy,  in  the  same  time.* 


*  We  would  here  mention  for  the  benefit  of  the  manufacturers  of  this  coun- 
try, that  a  card-cutting  machine  of  this  kind,  in  its  most  perfect  state,  may  be 
purchased  from  our  friend,  M.  Dioudonnat,  No.  12  Rue  St.  Maur,  Paris,  for 
2400  francs ;  this  includes  the  copying  and  stamping  machines,  the  simples 
and  all  the  other  necessary  apparatus,  as  well  as  the  packing  or  boxing  of 
the  whole  and  its  carriage,  to  Havre  for  shipment.  One  of  these  splendid 
machines  would,  at  least,  be  sufficient  to  cut  cards  for  a  manufactory  contain- 
ing 300  looms.  27 


210  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 


SECTION  SEVENTH. 

CARPETING. 

The  progress  of  almost  any  of  the  arts  may  be  safely  taken  as 
an  index  of  civilization.  The  arts,  indeed,  are  so  intimately  inter- 
woven, that  one  of  them  can  scarcely  flourish  without  giving  rise  to 
and  receiving  support  from  others.  This  is  particularly  the  case  in 
regard  to  the  manufacture  of  carpets ;  which,  hke  the  other 
branches  of  weaving,  has  received  improvements  at  every  hand, 
and  has  lately  made  important  advances.  The  very  fact  of  the 
existence  of  such  a  manufacture  speaks  volumes  as  to  the  increase 
of  our  domestic  comforts. 

In  the  superficial  texture  of  the  common  carpet,  nothing  appears 
to  distinguish  it  from  an  ordinary  web  ;  and  a  first  observer  is  at  a 
loss  to  imagine  by  what  means  its  variety  of  colours  can  be  pro- 
duced. On  examining  the  figure  more  narrowly,  it  appears  that 
the  designer  has  laboured  under  considerable  dififtculties  :  for  in 
many  places  where  purity  of  colour  would  have  been  advantageous, 
a  mixed  colour,  of  the  warp  and  weft,  only  is  to  be  found,  while 
scarcely  any  gradual  shading  of  the  tints  depending  on  the  nature 
of  the  figure  is  to  be  seen.  A  still  closer  examination  explains  at 
once  the  source  of  these  imperfections.  The  ingrain  or  double  car- 
pet is  found  to  consist  of  two  contiguous  webs,  intermingled  with 
each  other  in  such  a  manner  as  to  produce  the  pattern  :  each  of 
these  webs,  if  woven  singly,  would  have  a  striped  appearance, 
being  partly  coloured  in  the  weft.  One  set  of  coloured  stripes  is 
thus  imposed  upon  another  :  and  in  designing  the  colours  of  the 
pattern,  no  selection  beyond  what  is  afl^orded  liy  the  judicious  ar- 
rangement of  tliese  stripes  can  be  made.  The  number  of  full 
colours  is  thus  very  limited  ;  and  these  can  only  be  obtained  where 
the  weft  traverses  warp  of  the  same  colour.  To  bring  up  then  a 
part  of  the  figure  full  red,  red  warp  must  be  traversed  by  red  weft ; 
these  colours  can  be  immediately  concealed  by  sending  the  threads 
to  the  other  web,  but  were  they  to  remain  long  there,  botli  webs 
would  become  monotonous.  It  is  therefore  extremely  difliicult  to 
avoid  a  strong  tendency  to  striping  in  the  colours,  and,  except  in 
tile  principal  part  of  the  figure,  the  colours  can  hardly  be  well  man- 
aged, the  secondary  embellishments  being  almost  matters  of  chance. 


CARPETING.  211 

Yet,  in  the  face  of  all  these  difficulties,  patterns  of  great  beauty  are 
being  continually  formed  on  the  carpet  loom. 

The  invention  of  the  triple  carpet,  claimed  by  Mr.  Morton,  of 
Kilmai-nock,  has  almost  removed  these  difficulties.*  This  carpet  is 
composed  of  three  webs,  which  interchange  tbeir  threads  in  order  to 
produce  the  pattern.  The  primary  object  in  the  introduction  of  the 
third  web,  appears  to  have  been  the  obtaining  of  greater  variety  and 
brilliancy  of  colouring  ;  but  another  curious  effect  has  followed,  that 
the  two  sides  of  the  carpet  are  necessarily  counterparts  to  each 
other.  To  a  certain  extent  the  figure  of  the  under  must  depend  on 
that  of  the  upper  side,  since  threads  may  be  needed  from  the  under 
web  to  produce  what  is  wanted  in  the  chief  pattern  on  the  upper 
side,  but  there  still  remains  the  choice  of  an  interchange  of  threads 
between  the  two  inferior  welDs.  It  is  obvious  tliat  the  tendency  to 
striping  must  be  much  less  on  this  than  on  the  common  carpet,  and 
that  the  designer  Iiaving  a  far  greater  choice  of  colours,  may  pro- 
duce effects  that  could  not  before  have  been  obtained.  After  the 
principal  figure  has  been  determined  on,  the  skill  of  the  designer  is 
most  severely  exercised  on  the  wrong  side  of  the  carpet.  His  choice 
of  materials  is  indeed  as  great  as  with  the  common  carpet,  but  then 
he  is  hampered  by  the  restriction  in  figure,  and  can  only  be  entirely 
at  ease  opposite  a  piece  of  plain  texture  on  the  other  side.  The 
superior  beauty  of  the  triple  carpet  over  the  common  ingrain  or 
two-ply  is  at  once  acknowledged  :  it  possesses  almost  all  the  freedom 
in  colouring  of  the  floor-cloth  or  paper-hanging,  while  its  great  thick- 
ness and  comparative  cheapness  bring  it  into  competition  with  the 
more  expensive  kinds  of  carpeting. 

Fig.  105  is  a  correct  representation,  in  perspective,  of  an  imperial 
Scotch  carpet  loom. 

The  frame  of  the  loom  consists  of  four  perpendicular  posts 
A  A  A  A,  with  capes  B  B,  and  cross  rails  C  C  C  C,  to  hold  them 
firm  at  suitable  distances  apart ;  these  posts  are  generally  6  feet  4^- 
inches  in  height ;  D  is  the  cloth  roller,  which  must  be  made  of  well- 
seasoned  wood  of  bl  inches  in  diameter,  with  an  iron  gudgeon  of 
tths  of  an  inch  in  diameter  driven  into  each  end  of  it,  in  the  usual 
way ;  on  one  of  these  ends  a  ratchet  wheel  E  is  fastened,  which  is 
operated  upon  by  two  clicks  F  F,  for  the  purpose  of  holding  the 
web  in  its  proper  place  when  wound  upon  the  roller  by  the  weaver, 


*  Mr.  M.  is  one  of  those  sanguine  mortals  who  believe,  that  if  a  man  could 
produce  a  machine  which  would  generate  the  power  by  which  it  was  worked, 
he  would  become  a  creator !    Oui ! ! 


212 


THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 
Fig  105. 


in  a  similar  manner  to  that  formerly  described  in  section  1st  under 
the  head  of  plain  wea^-ing ;  G  G  is  the  lay  or  batten  ;  H  the  reed  ; 
I  the  upper  shell  to  hold  the  reed ;  J  the  under  shell  or  sill  of  the 
lay ;  K  the  rocking  tree  or  cross  bar,  which  connects  the  lay  swords 
G  G  above,  as  in  Fig.  9,  section  1st  (which  see ;)  L  the  harness, 
with  double  necking,  connected  to  each  of  the  Jacquard  machines ; 
M  the  treadles  ;  N  a  rack  or  guide  which  serves  to  keep  the  treadles 
in  their  proper  places ;  O  treadle  cords  or  wires  which  connect  the 
treadles  to  their  respective  levers  or  lifters,  in  the  usual  way  ;  P  the 
harness  board  ;  Q,  the  warp  roller,  with  its  ratchet  wheel  R,  similarly 
fixed  to  that  of  the  cloth  roller  D.  and  held  in  its  place  by  the  catch 
or  dog  S,  as  in  Fig.  7.  section  1st  (which  see ;)  T  the  warp  yarn  as 


CARPETING,  213 

it  proceeds  from  the  warp  roller  through  the  harness  L,  and  from 
thence  into  the  reed  H,  where  it  is  woven  into  cloth,  then  passes 
over  the  breast  beam  U,  and  on  to  the  cloth  roller  D  ;  V  the  cloth  ; 
W  a  strong  cord,  fastened  to  the  catch  or  dog  S  at  X,  passing  over 
the  pulley  Y,  and  attached  to  the  loom  frame  at  Z,  on  the  right 
hand  side  of  the  loom,  and  convenient  to  the  weaver's  hand  ;  on  this 
cord  a  small  wooden  bob  A'  is  fixed,  which  the  weaver  pulls  when 
he  finds  it  necessary  to  draw  his  bore  or  sink,  and  he  winds  the 
same  length  of  cloth  upon  the  cloth  roller  that  he  draws  of  warp 
from  oflf  the  warp  roller  ;  B'  B'  Jacquard  machines  of  the  common 
description,  mounted  on  the  top  of  the  loom  in  the  usual  way ;  C^  C' 
the  pattern  cards,  and,  D'  D'  two  wooden  boxes  into  which  they 
drop  when  delivered  from  the  cylinders,  as  represented  more  clearly 
in  the  description  formerly  given  of  the  Jacquard  machine,  and  in 
the  drawings  Figs.  93,  94,  95,  96.  97,  and  98  (which  see.) 

The  introducer  of  this  texture  (]\Ir.  Morton)  has  conferred  on  us 
a  very  great  benefit :  he  has  furnished  us  with  a  higher  embellish- 
ment for  the  interior  of  our  dwellings,  and  presented  to  us  another 
evidence  of  the  active  benevolence  and  social  disposition  of  man. 
And  it  is  agreeable  to  reflect;  that  in  the  nursing  of  the  idea,  and 
the  carrying  of  it  into  effect,  he  must  have  felt  a  pleasvue  mucr. 
more  intense  than  is  likely  to  be  experienced  by  any  of  the  multi- 
tudes who  will  enjoy  the  fruits  of  his  abilities. 

A  desiie  for  something  in  the  interior  of  a  dwelling  analogous 
to  the  soft  clothing  of  the  external  world,  seems  to  be  generally 
felt ;  for  in  all  states  of  society  attempts  are  made  to  remove  the 
hardness  and  unseemhness  of  the  floor.  Among  the  poorer  nations, 
these  attempts  are  confined  to  the  mere  dormitories,  but,  as  advances 
are  made  in  wealth,  the  mat  and  carpet  begin  to  appear.  The 
softness  of  the  turf  and  more  than  its  smoothness  having  been  at- 
tained, it  was  natural  to  imitate  also  its  embellishments :  for  this 
purpose  several  distinct  kinds  of  carpet  texture  have  been  contrived. 
On  one  of  these  (the  ingrain)  we  have  already  reported  an  immense 
improvement,  and  proceed  to  describe  a  no  less  striking  improve- 
ment on  another. 

The  Brussels  carpet  is  distinguished  from  the  common  one  by 
having  a  raised  pile,  and  by  the  circumstance  that  the  figures  and 
colours  are  entirely  produced  from  the  warp.  The  pile  is  raised  by 
inserting  a  wire  between  the  body  of  the  warp  and  the  previously 
raised  colouring  threads.  These  threads  descend  and  are  fixed  by 
the  weft,  which  is  of  linen,  two  picks  being  given  before  the  insertion 
of  each  wire,  and  these  picks  are  called  binders,  and  after  a  few 


214  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

repetitions  of  the  process  the  wires  are  withdrawn,  taking  care 
that  the  wires  be  not  drawn  out  too  near  the  face  of  the  cloth : 
otherwise  the  looped  warp  would  become  stretched,  by  recovering 
the  position  in  which  it  was  before  the  wires  were  inserted. 

The  Wilton  carpet  differs  only  in  this,  that  the  pile  is  made  some- 
what longer,  and  cut  in  the  manner  of  velvet.*  Were  the  coloured 
warp,  however,  raised  into  pile  at  each  stroke,  the  web  would  have 
simply  a  striped  appearance  ;  and  if  it  were  raised  only  at  intervals, 
the  figure  would  be  given  m  relief,  but  would  still  be  merely  striped. 
In  order  to  produce  a  properly  coloured  pattern,  several  coloured 
yarns  are  arranged,  so  that  any  one  of  them  may  be  raised,  into 
pile.  Their  number  is  generally  five,  and  these  constitute  what  is 
called  five  covers,  so  that,  by  their  irregular  ascent  to  the  surface, 
the  striped  appearance  is  almost  broken  up.t     Still,  however,  the 

*  The  knife  or  cutter  used  in  England,  for  cutting  the  piles  of  various  kinds 
of  fabrics,  is  a  steel  rod  about  2  feet  long  and  f  ths  of  an  inch  thick,  having  a 
square  handle  at  one  end  ;  the  other  end  is  tapered  away  to  a  blade  as  thin  as 
the  edge  of  a  razor.  To  prevent  the  point  of  the  knife  from  turning  down- 
wards and  injuring  the  cloth,  its  under  side  is  cov^ered  by  a  guide,  which 
serves  to  stiffen  it,  as  well  as  to  prevent  its  under  edge  from  cutting  the  fabric 
during  the  operation  of  guttering  out  the  pile.  The  operative  grasps  the  handle 
in  his  right  hand,  and  insinuating  the  projecting  point  of  the  guide  under  the 
weft,  pushes  the  knife  smartly  forward  through  the  whole  breadth  of  the  pile 
(from  selvage  to  selvage.)  This  process  is  repeated  upon  every  hne  of  the 
pile  throughout  the  web. 

An  expeditious  method  of  manufacturing  common  velvets  has  lately  been 
introduced  by  our  respected  friend,  M.  Tannias  Falson,  of  Lyons,  its  ingeni- 
ous inventor.  There  are  two  principal  features  of  novelty  in  this  method ; 
the  first  of  which  is,  the  weaving  of  two  webs  or  pieces  of  velvet  at  once,  the 
one  above  the  other,  the  pile  of  each  turning  inward,  and  the  webs  being 
connected  together  by  the  pile  itself  The  second  feature  consists  of  a  vibra- 
tory cutter  or  knife,  which  passes  between  the  two  pieces  of  velvet  and  cuts 
them  asunder,  as  fast  as  woven,  by  the  mere  operation  of  the  loom  ;  the  cut- 
ter is,  of  course,  set  from  the  face  of  the  cloth  at  a  sufficient  distance  to  pre- 
vent its  cutting  too  near  the  reed. 

This  excellent  mode  of  manufacturing  velvet,  might,  we  think,  be  intro- 
duced with  great  advantage  in  this  country :  the  necessary  apparatus  may 
be  obtained,  by  applying  to  the  inventor,  at  Lyons,  or  to  Messrs.  James  Jac- 
quier  &  Co.,  No.  1  Wood  Street,  Spitalfields,  London. 

t  Called  coi-ers  on  account  of  all  the  colours  being  covered  or  hid,  except  one, 
which  shows  on  the  face  of  the  cloth.  In  a  pattern,  for  instance,  containing 
five  colours,  all  these  may  be  visible,  but  only  one  will  show  at  any  particular 
point,  and  the  sum  of  all  the  parts  of  the  coloured  yarns  which  appear  on  the 
face,  will  be  only  one  fifth  of  the  whole  of  the  coloured  yarns  employed. 
Five  colours  are  commonly  used  in  the  manufacture  of  Brussels  carpet :  if  a 


CARPETING. 


215 


web  is  essentially  striped,  and  though  the  designer  be  not  nearly  so 
hampered  as  in  the  Kidderminster  texture,  he  is  yet  seriously  in- 
conunoded  in  his  choice.  Let  us  suppose  a  board  painted  in  minute 
coloured  stripes.  After  these  have  dried,  let  another  coating  of 
coloured  stripes  be  laid  on,  and  so  on  for  five  coats,  each  differing 
from  the  preceding :  the  painter  may  now  form  an  idea  of  the 
difficulties  encountered  by  the  carpet  designer, — let  him  set  to  work, 
by  scraping  away  the  different  coats,  to  produce  a  pattern.  But 
there  is  another  annoyance  ;  in  order  to  jJrochice  the  smallest 
speck  of  any  jmrticidar  colour,  a  thread  of  that  colour  must  trav- 
erse the  luhole  pattern  ;  and  that  thread  may  displace  some  other 
which  uould  have  been  advantageously  hrouglit  in  elseichere. 
On  account  of  the  very  different  rates  at  which  the  coloured  threads 
are  taken  up,  these  cannot  be  wound  upon  one  beam,  but  have  to 
be  placed  each  upon  a  bobbin  by  itself. 

To  remedy  the  inconvenience  of  this  texture  (the  Brussels  car- 
pet) Mr.  Richard  Whytock,  of  Edinburgh,  contrived  a  method  of 
partially  dying  the  yarns  ;  but  we  cannot  fully  understand  the 
value  of  the  contrivance  till  we  have  glanced  at  another  kind  of 
carpet  texture. 

The  Turkey  carpet  is  the  simplest  in  its  texture  of  all  carpets, 
and  at  the  same  time  is  almost  unUmited  in  the  choice  of  colours. 
Let  us  suppose  ourselves  seated  at  a  common  loom,  and  that  imme- 
diately after  having  thrown  a  pick,  we  commence  to  tie  on  every 
thread  of  the  warp  a  small  bunch  of  coloured  worsted  yarns,  vary- 
ing the  colour  according  to  our  fancy.  This  completed,  let  two  or 
three  picks  be  thrown,  and  well  driven  up  ;  and  then  another  row 
of  coloured  worsteds  tied  on.  It  is  clear  that  in  this  way  we  could 
produce  any  pattern,  and  that  no  more  of  any  particular  colour  is 
wanted  than  is  sufficient  to  produce  the  required  effect :  nay  more, 
the  colours  being  put  on  by  hand,  we  would  not  be  compelled 
.  to  reiterate  the  pattern  at  each  stated  distance.  Here  we  have  every 
advantage  that  we  can  wish  for,  excepting  this  important  one,  ra- 
pidity of  formation. 

Whytock's  method  supplies  to  all  the  advantages   of  the  Tur- 


greater  number  were  employed,  the  cloth  would  have  a  flimsy  appear- 
ance. Suppose  ten  colours  to  be  used,  instead  of  five,  as  already  described, 
then  nine  of  them  would  always  remain  below,  while  only  one  would  be 
raised,  but  this  one  could  not  fully  conceal  the  others,  so  that  the  pattern  on 
tlie  cloth  would  be  indistinct.  Could  one-half  or  two-thirds  of  the  coloured 
threads  be  brought  to  show  on  the  face  of  the  cloth,  it  is  clear,  that  the  fabric 
would  have  a  much  more  dense  and  velvety  appearance. 


216  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

key  carpet,  a  rapidity  of  weaving  greater  than  that  of  the 
Brussels  fabric.  His  method  may  be  described  thus  :  If  for  the 
five  coloured  yarns  of  the  Brussels  carpet  we  could  substitute  one 
yarn  dyed  of  the  requisite  colour  at  different  places,  we  would  be 
able  to  dispense  with  all  the  apparatus  for  producing  the  pattern, 
could  make  the  web  with  only  one  body,  and  work  it  as  a  simple 
velvet.  The  only  difficulty  would  then  be  in  the  dying  of  the  warp 
threads. 

In  order  to  dye  the  threads,  one  yarn  is  wound  on  the  surface  of 
a  large  drum,  of  which  the  circumference  is  equal  to  the  length  re- 
quired for  one  copy  or  length  of  the  pattern.  This  drum  is  gradu- 
ated so  that  the  d\"eing  roller  can  be  passed  across  the  j-arn  at  any 
required  place.  The  design,  extended  on  the  ordinary  ruled  paper, 
enables  the  workman  to  discover  all  the  places  at  which  a  particu- 
lar colour  is  to  be  applied  :  that  done,  he  changes  the  colour  box, 
and  so  proceeds  till  the  whole  colouring  is  completed.  The  thread, 
bemg  now  dyed,  is  then  taken  off  the  drum,  and  submitted  to 
the  processes  (steaming  &c.)  for  fixing  and  brightening  up  the 
colours.  The  second  thread  is  then  dyed,  and  so  on  till  the  whole 
warp  is  finished.  The  next  and  most  difficult  part  of  the  operation 
is,  to  place  all  these  yarns  side  by  side  upon  the  beam.  For  this 
purpose  they  are  wound  upon  separate  bobbins,  and  small  white 
spots,  purposely  left  m  the  dying,  enable  the  workman  to  arrange 
the  coloured  parts  properly  opposite  each  other.  They  are  then 
carefully  rolled  upon  the  beam,  and  the  weaving  proceeds  rapidly, 
each  thread  being  brought  into  the  pile  upon  every  successive  wire. 
Whytock  uses  the  grooved  wires,  and  cuts  the  pile  in  the  mannei-  of 
the  Wilton  carpet. 

Excepting  the  necessity  for  the  recurrence  of  the  pattern,  this  has 
all  the  advantages  of  the  Turkey  carpet.  The  coloured  spots  can 
be  produced  at  any  point,  and  need  not  run  in  rows  as  in  all  the 
other  carpets.  It  need  hardly  be  added,  that  greatly  admired  pat- 
terns have  been  produced  by  this  method  ;  and  that  the  manufac- 
ture meets  with  deserved  encouragement. 

Before  concluding  tMs  imperfect  notice  of  these  two  improvements 
(Morton's  and  Whj^ock's)  we  would  draw  attention  to  a  subject  of 
great  importance  to  society  in  general.  A  strong  prejudice,  sanc- 
tioned by  an  old  proverb,*  exists  agamst  those  who  turn  their  atten- 
tion to  several  branches  of  the  arts.  Yet  it  is  a  fact,  that  ahiiost 
every  improver  has  been  jack  of  a  good  many  trades  ;  nay,  an  ac- 

*  '-Jack  of  all  trades  and  master  of  none." 


CARPETING.  217 

quaintance  with  a  variety  of  operations  is  essential  to  the  invention 
of  new  ones  ;  and  very  often  prodigious  improvements  are  effected 
by  the  simple  transference  of  a  process  from  one  art  to  another/ 
May  we  be  allowed  to  hint,  that  the  triple  carpet  is  one  of  those 
generalizations  so  often  fomid  in  scientific  researches,  and  that  its 
inventor  appears  to  have  extended  his  studies  far  beyond  the  sub- 
ject of  carpet  weaving.  Whytock's  carpet,  again,  bears  on  tire  face 
of  it  the  necessity  for  a  knowledge  of  the  arts  of  dyeing,  weaving 
and  scheming;  for  no  one  not  intimately  versed  in  these  could 
have  conceived,  or,  having  conceived,  could  have  carried  the  idea 
into  effect. 

Another  idea  exists,  that  the  happening  upon  new  discoveries  is 
a  matter  of  chance,  and  some  appear  (we  judge  from  their  conduct) 
to  imagine  that  the  less  they  know  of  a  subject  the  more  likely  are 
they  to  alight  on  something  new ;  as  a  bad  swordsman  trusts  to 
that  very  circumstance  for  outwitting  his  antagonist.  Once  in  a 
century,  indeed,  one  man  among  seven  hundred  and  fifty-nine  mil- 
lions may  find,  by  chance,  some  valuable  process  ;  but  the  great 
mass  of  our  current  inventions  are  the  fruits  of  assiduous  and  well- 
directed  exertion ;  and  the  mind,  even  more  truly  than  the  body, 
must  earn  its  bread  in  the  sweat  of  its  brow. 

For  the  benefit  of  the  manufacturers  in  the  United  States,  who 
are  interested  in  the  carpet  trade,  we  have,  at  very  great  trouble  and 
expense,  made  correct  drawings  and  specifications  of  Mr.  Whytock's 
very  ingenious  machinery  for  colouring  carpet  yarns,  according  to 
the  statements  just  made :  and  although  we  have  been  out  of 
pocket  several  hundred  dollars  more  than  we  at  first  anticipated  in 
this  matter,  still,  we  regret  it  not,  believing  that  our  exertions  will 
meet  with  an  adequate  reward.  We  have  made  all  the  drawings 
to  a  scale.f 

This  invention  consists  of  a  new  method  or  manufacture,  which 
facilitates  the  production  of  regular  figures  or  patterns,  on  different 
fabrics,  particularly  velvets,  velvet  pile,  and  Brussels,  Wilton  and 
Turkey  carpets,  by  colouring  the  threads  or  yarns  which  are  to  be 


*  As,  for  instance,  the  stealing  of  other  men's  inventions,  and  passing  tlienx 
off  for  our  own.  It  often  occurs  that  schemers,  by  such  low  trickery,  suc- 
ceed in  acquiring  large  fortunes,  whereas,  the  ingenious  persons  whom 
they  thus  swindle  not  only  out  of  their  bread,  but  also  out  of  the  honour 
which  they  justly  deserve,  die  for  want  of  the  common  necessaries  of  life. 

f  We  think  it  proper  to  mention,  that  these  drawings  were  made  from  one 
of  Mr.  Whytock's  machines,  while  in  operation,  at  Tournay  in  Belgium ; 
and  we  were  assisted  in  making  them  by  Judge  Shinimigin  of  Brussels. 

28. 


218  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

used  in  weaving  such  fabrics,  with  a  succession  of  different  colours 
applied  at  different  portions  of  the  length  of  each  yarn,  according 
to  such  a  peculiarly  regulated  order  of  succession  of  colours,  as  that 
after  the  yarns  (so  rendered  party  coloured)  have  been  suitably  ar- 
ranged, in  a  simple  loom,  such  as  is  commonly  used  for  weaving 
plain  cloth,  without  any  Jacquard  or  other  figuring  machinery 
thereon,  and  after  the  said  yarns  have  been  woven,  particularly  into 
any  of  the  fabrics  aforesaid,  by  the  ordinary  manipulations  of  plain 
weaving,  the  cloth  shall  exhibit  the  appearance  of  a  pattern  or  de- 
sign, in  diverse  colours,  by  virtue  of  the  variegated  colours  which 
were  previously  applied  on  the  yarns  by  this  improved  method,  ac- 
cording to  a  suitable  and  peculiarl)'  regulated  order  of  succession  of 
colours,  as  aforesaid. 

And  although  certain  yarns  which  are  intended  for  weaving  pat- 
terned fabrics  by  plain  weaving,  have  been  heretofore  rendered 
party-coloured,  by  tying  up  part  of  the  hanks  or  skeins  in  order  to 
preserve  them  free  of  colour  when  the  other  parts  are  coloured,  by 
submitting  the  whole  hanks  or  skeins  to  a  dying  process  ;  and  also, 
by  a  more  recent  process  (practised  by  Mr.  liouis  Schwabe  of  Man- 
chester) such  yarns  have  been  rendered  party-coloured  by  printing 
them  whilst  they  are  in  skeins  or  hanks  ;  and  the  yarns  so  rendered 
party-coloured,  whether  b}'  dying  or  by  printing,  are  afterwards  ar- 
ranged in  the  loom,  so  as  to  give  to  the  fabric  which  is  woven 
therein,  the  appearance  of  certain  irregular  and  ill-defined  patterns 
in  single  or  party-colours,  such  as  clouded,  speckled,  mottled,  mar- 
bled and  spotted  patterns,  and  inteiTupted  striped  patterns ;  it  is  to 
be  understood  that  this  improved  method  or  manufacture,  of  Mr. 
Whytock's,  is  founded  on  the  same  principle  of  previously  rendering 
the  yarns  party-coloured,  and  afterwards  arranging  them  in  the 
loom  so  as  to  produce  a  fabric  with  a  variegated  pattern  by  plain 
weaving  of  the  party-coloured  arranged  yarns.  This  improved 
method,  by  virtue  of  certain  mechanical  combinations  and  arrange- 
ments, hereinafter  described,  for  performing  the  process  of  rendering 
the  yarns  party-coloured,  with  a  suitable  succession  of  colours,  (and 
after  the  same  are  suitably  arranged  in  the  loom  certain  precaution- 
ary measures,  hereinafter  described,  being  used,  in  order  to  keep  up 
the  said  suitable  arrangement  unchanged  during  the  process  of 
plain  weaving.)  will  facilitate  the  production  of  regular  figures  or 
patterns,  which  will  correspond  with  sufficient  accuracy  to  a  pre- 
vious, and  intended  design,  and  will  be  repeated  with  sufficient  ac- 
curacy at  regular  distances  along  the  length  of  the  woven  fabric, 
so  as  to  exhibit  the  same  appearance  as  is  usual  in  the  regularly 


CARPETING.  219 

figured  or  patterned  fabrics,  which  are  woven  in  figured  looms,  but 
which  regularity  and  accuracy  of  patterns  have  not  been  hitherto 
obtained  by  the  ordinary  mode  of  dying  or  printing  yarns  in  the 
hanks  or  skeins. 

We  are  aware  of  the  fact,  that  yarns  prepared  for  weaving  into 
figured  fabrics,  by  plain  weaving,  by  printing  suitable  impressions 
in  diverse  colours  upon  them  to  form  the  chain  or  warp  of  the  in- 
tended web,  and  passed  through  reeds  like  those  of  the  loom  which 
is  intended  to  be  used  for  weaving  the  same,  the  said  impressions 
being  obtained  from  engraved  metal  surfaces  or  from  carved  blocks, 
in  the  manner  practised  by  calico  printers,  according  to  which 
method  of  printing  warps,  the  pattern  which  will  be  afterwards  ex- 
hibited by  the  fal^ric  woven  out  of  such  printed  waips,  will  be  the 
same  in  respect  to  its  design  as  that  which  is  engraved  or  carved  on 
the  surfaces  or  blocks,  by  which  the  impressions  were  printed  on 
the  warp,  except  in  as  much  as  the  design  may  be  contracted  in 
length  by  the  gathering  up  of  the  warp  in  the  process  of  weaving. 

It  is  to  be  understood,  tliat  according  to  Mr.  Whytock's  improved 
method,  the  yarnS;  when  they  are  arranged  in  a  Wtirp  in  prepa- 
ration for  weaving,  are  not  printed  ;  nor  does  he  make  use  of  en- 
graved surfaces,  or  carved  blocks,  with  any  figured  design  or  pattern 
thereon  which  bears  tlie  least  resemblance  to  the  figured  design  or 
pattern  which  will  be  exhibited  by  the  woven  fabric  ;  but,  witii  the 
same  mechanical  combination  and  printing  implements  which  he 
uses  for  rendering  yarns  party-coloured,  as  aforesaid,  suitable  for 
the  production  of  one  kind  of  regular  figures  or  patterns  on  the 
woven  fabric,  he  can,  also,  render  yarns  party-coloured  suitably  for 
the  production  of  an  unhmited  variety  of  different  regular  figures 
or  patterns  by  only  varying  the  regulated  order  of  succession, 
whereby  he  appUes  the  different  colours  to  the  yarns,  with  his  me- 
chanical combinations  and  printing  implements  ;  and  according  to 
which  improved  method,  the  warp  or  chain  is  formed  in  preparation 
for  weaving  after  the  yarns  are  rendered  party-coloured,  which  is 
also  the  case  in  the  common  plan  of  dyeing  the  yarns  in  the  hanks 
or  skeins,  tied  up,  or  in  printing  the  yarns  in  the  hanks  or  skeins  : 
in  the  old  methods,  the  warp  or  chain  is  formed  first,  and  the  print- 
ing afterwards  performed  thereon,  and  the  yarns  of  their  printed 
warps  (or  so  many  thereof  as  are  to  form  the  patterned  or  figured  part 
of  the  fabric)  must  retain  the  same  positions  in  relation  to  each 
other  when  they  are  in  the  woven  fabrics,  that  they  had  dining-  the 
printing,  for  the  yarns  receive  their  printed  impressions  whilst  they 
are  arranged  in  the  same  order  side  by  side  as  that  which  they 


220  THE    ART    OF    A\EAVING. 

are  to  have  when  arranged  in  the  loom.  This  distinction  being 
made,  we  shall  now  proceed  to  explain  the  improved  method  or 
manufacture  in  all  its  essential  details. 

In  order  to  render  yarns  party-coloured  by  Whytock's  improved 
method,  one  yarn  or  thread,  or  a  small  number  of  yarns  or  threads, 
must  be  wound  or  coiled  around  the  circumference  of  a  large  cylin- 
der or  drum,  which  is  mounted  on  a  horizontal  axis  in  a  frame, 
in  the  manner  of  a  grindstonSySind  the  circumference  of  the  cylin- 
der being  covered  with  a  blanket,  such  as  is  used  l)y  calico  printers 
to  cover  over  their  tables  for  block  printing,  with  the  addition  of  an 
oiled  cloth  cover,  to  keep  the  blanket  clean,  the  circumvolutions  or 
coils  which  the  yarn  or  each  of  the  yarns  makes  around  the  said 
cylinder,  being  disposed  regularly  and  closely  side  by  side.  And  if 
more  than  one  yarn  is  wound  round  the  cyhnder  at  once,  the  coils 
thereof  should  be  continued  until  they  fill  up  close  to  the  side  of  the 
first  coil  which  was  made  by  the  next  adjoining  yarn,  so  as  to  cover 
all  the  circumference  of  the  cylinder  with  circumvolutions  of  the 
yarn  or  several  yarns  around  the  same.  The  yarn  or  yarns  being 
thus  disposed  in  coils  around  the  cylinder,  and  the  ends  fastened 
thereto,  they  are  prepared  for  receiving  the  colours,  which  are  ap- 
plied by  means  of  long  narrow  sticks  or  rulers,  the  edges  of  which 
are  covered  with  felt,  and  are  used  as  printing  surfaces,  in  the  man- 
ner of  calico  printing  blocks,  but  without  any  carved  pattern  on 
the  said  edges  or  printing  surfaces  ;  that  is  to  say,  the  felt  edge  of 
one  of  the  said  rulers  being  furnished  with  its  appropriate  colour 
(from  a  colour  seive,  such  as  is  used  by  calico  printers  for  block 
printing,)  is  applied  horizontally  across  the  breadth  of  the  cylinder, 
parallel  to  the  axis  thereof,  so  as  to  cross  over  the  coils  of  the  yarn 
or  yarns  which  surround  the  cylinder  ;  and  an  impression  being 
given  across  the  yarn  or  yarns  by  the  printing  surface  or  edge  of 
the  ruler,  in  the  same  manner  as  would  be  done  by  calico  printers, 
it  will  apply  colour  to  each  ciixumvolution  of  the  yarn  or  yarns, 
along  so  much  of  the  length  thereof  as  is  equal  to  the  breadth  of 
the  printing  surface  of  the  rulers  ;  and  as  the  yarns  or  each  yarn 
makes  several  circumvolutions  around  the  cyhnder,  the  colour  so 
applied  will  colour  as  many  different  places  along  the  length  of  each 
yarn,  and  those  places  will  be  exactly  at  equal  distances  apart  along 
the  length  of  the  yarn,  viz.  at  distances  apart  equal  to  the  circum- 
ference of  the  cylinder.  After  one  impression  is  thus  made  on  the 
yarn  or  yarns,  the  cylinder  is  turned  round  just  as  much  as  will 
move  its  circumference  a  space  equal  to  the  breadth  of  the  impres- 
sion left  by  the  ruler,  and  then,  if  the  pattern  requires  a  change  of 


CARPETING. 


221 


colour,  another  similar  ruler,  furnished  with  a  suitable  colour,  is  ap- 
plied across  the  yarns,  so  as  to  make  another  impression  thereon 
adjoining  to  the  former  ;  or,  if  the  pattern  does  not  requue  a  change 
of  colours,  but  the  repetition  of  the  same  colour,  the  same  ruler 
which  was  first  used,  being  furnished  anew  with  its  own  proper 
colour,  is  used  to  make  the  second  impression,  instead  of  a  ditierent 
ruler ;  after  which  the  cyhnder  is  again  turned  round  as  much  as 
the  breadth  of  the  impression  left  by  the  last  ruler,  in  preparation 
for  laying  another  impression,  either  with  the  same  ruler  which 
was  last  used  refurnished  with  its  own  proper  colour,  or  else  with  a 
ditferent  ruler  furnished  with  a  different  colour,  according  as  the 
pattern  requires  a  change  of  colour,  or  a  continuance  of  the  same 
colour,  on  the  next  succeeding  portion  of  the  length  of  each  yarn. 

When  repetitions  of  the  same  colour  are  frequently  required,  the 
colouring  may  be  expedited  by  using  a  broader  ruler,  which  will 
print  double  or  treble  the  space  of  the  ruler  before  mentioned.  In 
this  way  the  colouring  of  the  yarns  proceeds  along  all  parts  which 
require  to  be  coloured  by  successive  impressions  of  the  different 
colours,  with  repetition  of  the  same  colours,  or  a  change  from  one 
colour  to  another,  according  as  the  pattern  requires,  until  a  com- 
plete series  of  such  impressions  has  been  made,  reaching  all  round 
the  cylinder ;  and  which  series,  by  joining  up  to  the  first  impres- 
sions, will  complete  the  colouring  of  the  whole  length  of  the  coils 
of  yarn  around  the  cyUnder  with  their  required  party  colours,  suc- 
ceeding each  other  in  due  order  of  succession,  according  to  the  pat- 
tern they  are  intended  to  produce  in  the  woven  fabric.  When  one 
yarn,  or  one  small  number  of  yarns,  has  been  thus  rendered  party 
coloured,  it,  or  they,  must  be  taken  off  the  cylinder,  to  be  afterwards, 
when  dried,  subjected  to  the  action  of  steam,  to  fix  the  colours,  and 
then  washed,  and  when  again  dried,  to  be  wound  on  a  bobbin,  or 
on  bobbins,  in  preparation  for  forming  it  or  them  into  a  warp;  and 
as  soon  as  the  cyhnder  is  at  liberty,  another  yarn,  or  another  small 
number  of  yarns,  is  coiled  upon  the  cyhnder  to  be  in  its,  or  their 
turn,  rendered  party  coloured,  by  a  similar  series  of  manipulations, 
and  so  on  until  the  whole  number  of  yarns  which  are  required  for 
the  formation  of  the  warp  or  chain  of  the  intended  fabric,  or  of  the 
figured  or  patterned  portion  thereof,  are  rendered  party  coloured  ; 
and,  in  applying  the  colours  to  each  yarn  or  small  number  of  yarns 
which  are  wound  each  time  round  the  cylinder,  the  order  of  succes- 
sion of  the  different  colours  is  varied  as  the  pattern  may  require,  for 
each  yarn  or  small  number  of  yarns ;  and  when  the  whole  of  the 
yarns  requisite  for  the  warp  (or  for  the  figured  or  patterned  portion 


222  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

thereof)  are  finished  and  gathered  on  theii"  separate  bobbins,  either 
the  said  party  coloured  yarns  are  drawn  off  from  the  bobbins  to 
form  the  warp  in  the  loom  by  degrees,  as  the  yarns  are  required  for 
the  weaving,  or  else  the  yarns  are  collected  from  the  said  separate 
bobbins  on  to  the  yarn  beam  of  the  loom  by  the  usual  process  called 
beaming,  as  a  preparation  for  weaving ;  and  in  so  collecting  the 
partv  coloured  yarns  from  off  their  different  bobbins  into  a  warp, 
whether  it  be  by  degrees  as  the  weaving  in  the  loom  requires,  or  in 
order  to  beam  the  warp  upon  the  yarn  beam  of  the  loom  previous 
to  the  weaving,  the  several  party  coloured  threads  must  be  arranged 
side  by  side,  each  in  its  proper  place  across  the  breadth  of  the 
warp,  according  as  each  yarn  has  been  previously  rendered  party- 
coloured,  suitably  for  the  place  it  is  required  to  occupy  in  pattern. 
And,  owing  to  the  circumstance  of  each  yarn  making  several  cir- 
cumvolutions around  the  cylinder  when  the  colours  are  applied 
thereon,  as  herein  before  described,  the  order  of  the  succession  of 
the  party-colours  on  each  yarn  will  be  exactly  repeated  at  intervals 
along  the  length  of  each  yarn  equal  to  the  circumference  of  the 
cylinder,  and  those  repetitious  of  the  order  of  succession  in  the 
warp  wall  produce  repetitions  of  the  figured  pattern  in  the  length  of 
the  piece  of  the  fabric  when  it  is  woven.  Wherefore,  the  length  of 
the  circumference  of  the  cylinder  must  be  adapted  to  the  length 
over  which  the  pattern  is  required  to  extend,  before  a  repetition  of 
the  pattern  commences,  allowing  for  the  contraction  of  length 
W'hich  results  from  the  gathering  up  of  the  w^arp  in  the  process  of 
weaving,  or  else  the  circumference  of  the  cylinder  may  be  twice  or 
thrice  the  length  of  the  yarn  required  to  produce  that  length  of  the 
fabric  over  which  the  pattern  is  required  to  extend  before  a  repetition 
commences.  The  warp  being  thus  composed  of  party-coloured 
yarns,  suitably  variegated  with  colours,  and  arranged  in  suitable 
order  in  the  w-arp,  according  to  the  intended  pattern,  the  weaving 
is  to  be  conducted  in  the  usual  manner  of  what  is  called  plain 
weaving,  and  will  produce  a  fabric  with  a  figured  pattern  in  colours, 
unthout  any  of  the  troublesome  maiiipulations  u-hich  are  neces- 
sarij  for  what  is  called  figure  weaving.  The  fabrics  for  which 
Whytock's  improved  mode  is  most  particularly  adapted,  are  those 
wherein  the  surface  of  the  fabric  which  exhibits  the  pattern  is  com- 
posed chiefly  by  gathering  up  the  warp  into  loops,  by  interlaying  a 
wire  during  the  operation  of  weaving  across  the  warp  in  the  direc- 
tion of  the  shoot  or  weft,  and  which  wire  may  be  either  drawn  out 
in  order  to  leave  loops  for  the  face  of  the  fabric,  as  is  the  case  in 
Bruxelles  carpets,  or  the  wire  may  be  cut  out,  if  it  is  intended  to 


CARPETING. 


223 


form  a  pile  for  the  face  of  the  fabric,  and  the  cut  or  divided  loops 
will  form  that  pile,  as  is  the  case  in  velvets,  velvet  piles,  and  Wilton 
carpets  ;  and,  as  to  Turkey  carpets,  which  are  a  different  description 
of  fabric  from  the  others  above  mentioned,  being  formed  by  knot- 
ting tufts  of  coloured  worsted  yarn  around  the  yarns  of  the  warp, 
Whytock's  improved  mode  facilitates  the  production  of  regular  fig- 
ures or  patterns  thereon,  by  enabling  the  operator  to  render  the 
skein  of  yarn  which  each  weaver  is  to  use  for  forming  those  knotted 
tufts  party-coloured,  with  the  different  colours  succeeding  each  other, 
exactly  according  to  the  order  of  succession  of  colours  in  which  the 
weaver  must  introduce  tufts  of  different  colours.  According  to  the 
ordinary  mode  of  weaving  Turkey  carpets,  the  weaver  must  have 
in  use  as  many  different  skeins  or  clews  of  different  colours  as  the 
variegation  in  his  pattern  requires,  and  must  select  first  a  skein  or 
clew  of  one  colour,  and  then  another,  with  discretion  to  suit  his 
pattern  ;  he  will,  according  to  this  improved  mode,  require  to  use 
only  one  skein  or  clew  of  yarn,  which,  being  rendered  party- 
coloured  in  due  order  of  succession  of  colours,  will  furnish  all  the 
variation  of  colouring  necessary  for  forming  the  successive  tufts 
which  he  will  require  in  his  work,  and  following  each  other  in  due 
order  as  they  will  be  wanted.  And  as  he  works  up  the  skein  or 
clew  of  party-coloured  yarn  by  putting  in  tuft  after  tuft,  and  cutting 
off  the  yarn  each  time,  those  successive  tufts  will  change  their 
colour  according  to  the  intended  order  of  succession  of  colours  which 
the  pattern  requires,  without  any  trouble  of  selecting  colours  and 
changing  skeins  with  j^erpetual  reference  to  the  pattern,  as  hereto- 
fore, but  only  occasional  reference  thereto,  and  without  the  same 
liability  to  mistake  in  so  selecting,  and  the  waste  of  coloured  yarn 
which  is  occasioned  by  such  mistakes  ;  and  also,  the  number  of 
ends  remaining  from  the  number  of  skeins  which  must  be  used 
will  be  much  diminished  by  rendering  the  yarns  party-coloured, 
according  to  this  improved  mode,  and  likewise,  by  this  mode  of 
party-colouring  the  yarns,  the  joinings  of  the  patches  of  colour 
which  were  applied  successively,  will  indicate  the  exact  place  Avhere 
the  yarn  is  to  be  cut  off  as  the  tufts  are  introduced,  whereby  waste 
of  material  in  cutting  off  too  long  may  be  avoided,  as  well  as  im- 
perfections in  the  face  of  the  work  by  cutting  off  too  short. — Note, 
A  saving  of  colouring  material  may  be  made  in  rendering  the  yarns 
for  Turkey  carpets  party-coloured,  by  an  improved  method,  by 
omitting  to  apply  any  colour  to  those  parts  of  the  yarns  which  are 
afterwards  to  be  looped  or  knotted  around  the  yarns  of  the  warp, 
and  which  parts  will  therefore  appear  only  at  the  back  of  the  fa- 


224  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

brie,  and  \vi\l  consequently  require  no  colour ;  these  omissions  can 
be  easily  made  in  their  proper  places  along  the  party-coloured  yarns, 
by  settin?  out  the  pattern  so  that  those  parts  of  the  yarns  will  be 
known  when  they  are  wound  round  the  cylinder,  and  may  be 
passed  over  without  applying  any  colouring  matter  thereon.  The 
places  which  are  so  left  uncoloured  in  the  yarns  will  be  extremely 
nsfful  as  indications  to  the  weaver  of  the  places  where  the  tufts 
are  to  loop  and  knot  around  the  yarns  of  the  warp. 

Fig.  106  represents  the  cylinder  A  A  in  perspective,  together  with 
the  rack  B  B  containing  the  bobbins  a  a,  from  which  the  yarns  6, 
are  furnished  to  the  cylinder  A  A  as  fast  as  they  are  wanted,  %vhen 
the  latter  is  turned  round  in  order  to  wind  them  around  its  circum- 
ference, as  herein  before  mentioned.  Figs.  112  and  113  also  repre- 
sent the  cyUnder,  and  the  same  letters  of  reference  are  used  to  de- 
note the  same  parts  in  all  the  figures.  CCEL  Fig.  113,  and 
K  K  L  Figs.  114  and  11.5  is  the  wooden  frame  for  supporting  the  axis 
D  of  the  cyhnder  A  A;  EL  (see  Figs.  113  and  114)  are  upright 
standards  to  support  a  horizontal  shelf  or  rest  F,  which  is  fixed 
across  the  width  of  the  cyhnder,  and  serves  to  place  the  rulers  by  which 
the  colour  is  to  be  apphed  to  the  yarns,  in  a  truly  horizontal  position, 
and  so  that  each  ruler  will  be  presented  to  the  cylinder  A  A  at  the 
same  height  thereon;  dd,  (see  the  Figures  107  and  109)  is  a 
guide  screw,  which  is  mounted  horizontally  in  bearings  notched  out 
in  each  of  the  upright  standards  E  L  (see  Fig.  113  ;)  the  screw  d  d, 
has  a  pulley  e,  fixed  on  the  extreme  end  of  it,  in  order  to  turn  it 
round  by  means  of  an  endless  band  or  strap// (see  Fig.  112,)  from 
another  pulley  g,  which  is  fixed  on  the  extreme  end  of  the  axis  D 
of  the  large  cylinder  A  A ;  wherefore,  the  screw  d  d.  will  be  turned 
round  with  a  motion  corresponding  to  that  wherewith  the  cylinder 
A  A  is  turned ;  G  G  (see  Fig.  107)  is  a  conductor  for  the  yarns, 
which  is  fitted  on  the  guide  screw  d  d,  so  as  to  be  moved  gradually 
along  thereby  across  the  width  of  the  cylinder  A  A,  when  the  latter 
is  turned  round.  The  rack  or  frame  B  B  (Fig.  106)  contains  as 
many  bobbins  a  a,  as  the  number  of  yarns  which  it  is  intended  to 
wind  around  the  cylinder  A  A,  for  colouring  at  one  operation. — A 
yarn  b,  from  each  of  the  several  bobbins  a  a,  is  conducted  beneath 
a  fixed  horizontal  rod  or  wire  h,  then  over  another  such  rod  or  wire 
i,  and  beneath  a  third  fixed  rod  or  wire  k ;  which  three  rods  or 
wires,  by  opposing  a  slight  friction  to  the  yarn  or  yarns  when  drawn 
across  the  rods  or  wires,  will  cause  the  yarn  or  yarns  to  be  extended 
with  a  proper  tension  when  drawn  afterwards  by  the  cylinder  A  A. 
After  passing  under  the  third  rod  or  wire  k,  each  of  the  several 


CARPETING.  225 

yarns  is  passed  through  a  distinct  eye  in  a  wn*e  guide  z  z.,  (see 
Figs.  100  and  107)  which  is  fixed  upon  the  top  cross  rail  R  of  the 
conductor  G  G  (see  Figs.  106,  107,  and  108)  and,  finally,  each  of 
the  yarns  is  passed  through  a  wire  loop  m,  which  is  fixed  in  the 
top  cross  rail  R  (see  Figs.  107  and  108)  and  projects  so  far  out 
therefrom  as  to  reach  near  to  the  circumference  of  the  cylinder,  w, 
(see  Figs.  113  and  114)  is  a  fixed  rest  or  guide  for  the  tails  of  the 
conductor  G  G  to  bear  against,  when  the  screw  d  d,  is  turned  round, 
and  as  it  carries  the  conductor  G  G  Uterally  across  the  wndth  of  the 
cylinder  A  A  in  the  manner  before  stated,  and  in  so  moving  it  will 
guide  each  of  the  yarns,  so  that  the  successive  coils  which  that 
yarn  makes  around  the  circumference  of  the  cylinder  will  fall  close 
to  each  other  side  by  side ;  and,  if  that  coiling  is  continued  until 
the  last  coil  made  by  one  yarn  joins  up  to  the  first  coil  made  by  the 
neighbouring  yarn,  then,  the  whole  surface  of  the  cylinder  will  be 
covered  with  the  several  yarns. — -The  conductor  G  G  is  made 
double,  and  fitted  upon  the  screw  d  d,  near  to  each  end  thereof,  the 
two  conductors  G  G  being  united  by  two  wooden  rails  R  S,  and  each 
part  which  is  so  fitted  on  the  screw  d  d,  is  formed  in  two  parts  G  p, 
(see  Figs.  107,  108,  and  109)  which  are  jointed  together  at  q,  in  the 
manner  of  a  pair  of  pincers,  to  grasp  the  screw  d  d,  by  the  action 
of  the  spring  ?',  which  is  interposed  between  the  handles  G  p,  of  the 
two  parts,  in  order  to  urge  them  apart  from  each  other,  and  cause  the 
other  parts  5  s,  of  the  pincers  to  grasp  the  screw  d  d  between  their 
jaws,  by  clasping  the  two  handles  Gp,  of  each  of  the  conductors 
together  in  the  hands,  their  spring  r,  can  be  overcame  to  open  the 
two  pincers,  and  then  both  the  conductors  G  G  become  detached 
from  the  threads  of  the  screw  d  d,  in  order  to  move  the  whole  back 
from  one  end  of  the  screw  to  the  other,  without  the  trouble  and  de- 
lay of  turning  the  screw  round  backwards  after  one  set  of  yarns 
has  been  wound  round  the  cylinder,  in  order  to  prepare  for  winding 
on  another  set.* 

Figs.  114  and  115  represent  the  cylinder  as  it  appears  when  a 
part  H  H  of  its  circumference  is  folded  inwards  towards  the  axis,  in 
order  to  admit  of  taking  off  the  yarn  from  it  after  it  has  been  ren- 
dered party-coloured.     Two  portions  H  H  of  the  circumference  are 

*  A  more  simple  guide  or  conductor  for  coiling  the  yarns  on  the  cylinder 
A  A,  as  represented  in  Figs.  106,  107  and  108,  may  be  used  ;  and  as  every 
manufacturer  of  cotton  goods  in  the  United  States  is  well  acquainted  with  the 
common  traverse  or  spooling  motion,  no  difficulty  can  be  experienced  by  them 
on  this  head.  We  are  confident  that  the  manufacture  of  this  kind  of  carpet, 
(the  velvet  pile)  is  destined  ere  long  to  receive  vast  improvements :  indeed, 
we  would  not  be  at  all  surprised  to  see  from  25  to  30  vards  of  it  manufactured 

29 


226  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

attached  to  the  remaining  portion  of  the  circumference  by  hinges 
in  the  manner  of  a  pair  of  folding  doors  ;  also,  a  portion  1 1  of  each 
of  the  rims  and  arms  of  the  cyhnder  is  attached  to  their  central 
naves  on  the  axis  by  hinges,  so  as  to  admit  of  folding  those  portions 
of  the  rims  and  arms  down  out  of  their  proper  places,  and  then  the 
two  portions  H  H  of  the  circumference  by  dropping  in  towards  the 
axis,  will  slacken  and  set  the  yarn  free  upon  the  cylinder,  in  order 
that  they  may  be  removed  or  doffed  from  off  the  same,  in  hke  man- 
ner as  a  common  yarn  real  is  doffed  when  it  becomes  covered  with 
hanks  of  yarn.  And,  in  order  to  admit  of  so  doffing  the  yarns  from 
the  cyhnder,  the  side  K  K  L  of  the  wooden  frame  (Fig.  114)  which 
supports  one  end  of  the  axis  D,  is  made  to  turn  down  in  the  man- 
ner shown  in  Fig.  115,  about  hinges  at  its  lowest  part,  by  which 
hinges  it  is  attached  to  one  of  the  ground  sills  of  the  frame ;  and, 
when  the  side  K  K  L  is  placed  upright  in  a  proper  position  to 
support  the  cylinder,  as  is  shown  in  Fig.  113,  it  is  retained  by  an 
oblique  strut  M,  which  is  also  attached  by  a  hinge  at  its  lowest 
end  to  the  cross  sill  of  the  frame,  so  that  it  can  be  turned  down  out 
of  the  way  in  the  manner  shown  in  Fig.  115,  when  the  side  KKL 
of  the  frame  is  to  be  turned  down. — Note,  before  that  side  is  so 
turned  down,  the  weight  of  the  cylinder  A  A  must  be  suspended  as 
shown  in  Fig.  115,  by  a  tackle  of  pulleys  N,  apphed  in  an  oblique 
direction  between  the  arms  of  the  cylinder  from  a  support  at  the 
ceiling  of  the  room,  and  reaching  to  the  end  of  the  axis  D  of  the 
cylinder.  The  cylinder  is  framed  with  two  sets  of  arms,  upon  the 
two  ends  of  the  axis,  and  two  ciicular  rims  on  those  arms  as  shown 
on  the  drawings.  The  circumference  is  composed  of  boards  fixed 
across  the  edges  (as  in  the  construction  of  card  drums)  of  the  two 
rims  parallel  to  the  axis  of  the  cylinder,  and  the  outside  circumfer- 
ence being  formed  to  a  true  cylinder,  is  covered  with  a  printer's 
blanket  strained  tight  and  sewed. — A  covering  of  oiled  or  varnished 
cloth  is  spread  evenly  over  the  blanket,  and  secured  thereto  by  pins. 
The  yarns  are  wound  round  the  covering  of  oiled  cloth  in  order  to 
receive  their  colour,  but  the  said  oiled  cloth  cover  is  unpinned,  and 
removed  from  the  cylinder  along  with  the  yarns  when  they  are 
doffed,  in  order  to  preserve  them  from  blurring  their  colours  by 
handUng  in  doffing. 

per  day,  of  12  working  hours,  in  a  machine  of  comparatively  simple  construc- 
tion, superintended  by  one  person  only.  We  are  always  willing  to  do  our  ut- 
most in  advancing  the  manufactures  of  this  country,  being  deeply  impressed 
with  the  idea,  that  on  them,  in  a  great  measure,  depends  our  prosperity  as  a 
nation. 


CARPETING. 


227 


228 


THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 
Figs.  107, 108,  109. 


Piff.  110. 


Green. 


CARPETING. 
Fig  111, 


1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  10  12  14  IG  IH  "20  «  24  26  28  30  S2  34  36  38  40  42 


229 


Border  or    ^ 
Selvage. 


Light  Blue.  48 

Dark  Blue. 

Green,    ss 

60 


Note. — The  above  species  of  painting  or  of  transferring  patterns  to  the  de- 
sign paper  is  performed  with  camel  hair  pencils,  and  appropriate  pigments, 
which  are  to  be  reduced,  if  necessary,  to  a  semi-transparent  state.  The  pen- 
cils should  be  chosen  of  a  middle  size,  with  a  good  spring  and  point,  both  of 
which  qualities  may  be  discovered  by  drawing  them  gently  through  the 
mouth,  and  pressing  them  on  the  thumb  nail ;  when,  if  on  being  moderately 
wet,  they  spring  again  into  their  form  after  being  bent  (on  the  nail,)  it  is  a 
sure  indication  of  these  qualities.  The  points  of  the  pencils  too,  should  be 
adapted  as  nearly  as  possible  to  the  size  of  the  small  spaces  or  squares  on  tlie 
design  paper  on  which  they  are  to  be  employed,  that  the  designer  may  be 
able  to  fill  any  individual  space  with  only  one  touch  of  the  pencil. 

A  learner  in  this  department,  before  he  attempts  designing  of  patterns, 
should  endeavour  to  acquire  a  dexterity  in  filling  up  these  httle  spaces  on  the 
design  paper,  whether  they  run  in  straight  or  curved  lines  ;  taking  care  al- 
ways to  fill  them  exactly,  without  allowing  the  paint  to  spread  beyond  their 
boundaries,  or  leaving  any  of  them  broken  or  imperfect. 


230 


THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 
Fi?.  112. 


CARPETING. 


231 


232  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

Description  of  the  tnaniier  of  apj)lying  the  partp-colours  on  the 
yarns^  and  of  determinhig  the  proper  order  of  succession  for 
the  different  colours  thereon. 

The  succession  of  colours  must  be  determined  by  means  of  a  de- 
sign paper,  w  hich  represents  the  design  or  figured  pattern  intended 
to  be  produced  by  plain  weaving  of  the  party-coloured  yarns.  See 
a  specimen  of  such  a  design  paper  Fig.  111.  It  is  similar  to  the 
design  paper  used  by  weavers  for  figured  weaving,  being  ruled  with 
squares,  which  are  numbered  across  the  top  and  down  the  length, 
and  it  must  contain  the  entire  figure  of  the  pattern  which  it  is  in- 
tended to  produce  in  the  fabric,  and  which  pattern  is  to  be  repeated 
thereon  at  regular  intervals  along  the  length  of  the  piece  :  and,  sup- 
posing that  the  ground  whereon  the  pattern,  Fig.  Ill,  is  to  be  repre- 
sented, is  to  be  all  of  one  uniform  tint,  the  whole  of  the  yarns  may 
be  dyed  with  that  colour  previously  to  applying  the  party-colours, 
the  said  dye  being  chosen  of  such  a  nature  that  it  will  readily  give 
place  to  the  stronger  party-colours  which  are  to  be  applied.*  The 
size  of  the  cylinder  A  A  must  be  so  chosen  that  its  circumference 
will  be  equal  to  the  length  of  yarn  which  the  warp  will  take  up  for 
weaving,  from  the  commencement  to  the  end  of  the  pattern,  where 
it  will  join  to  the  preceding,  and  to  the  succeeding  repetition  of  the 
pattern,  taking  into  consideration  the  contraction  of  the  length  of 
the  warp  which  will  result  from  the  gathering  up  of  the  yarn  in 
weaving,  and  which  contraction  varies  very  greatly  in  different 
kinds  of  fabrics.  Whatever  number  of  squares  the  length  of  the 
design  paper  occupies,  (for  instance  72,  as  in  Fig.  Ill,)  the  circum- 
ference of  the  cylinder  must  be  divided  into  a  like  number,  (of  72 
equal  parts  ;)  or  the  double  or  the  treble  that  number,  if  the  cylin- 
der is  large  in  proportion  to  the  pattern ;  which  is  easily  done  by 
applying  a  tape  painted  with  suitable  divisions  upon  it  around  the 
circumference  of  the  cyhnder,  as  at  t  t,  (see  Fig.  113)  and  fasten- 
ing it  with  pins  to  the  blanket  cover.  The  design  paper  should  be 
laid  out  in  large  squares,  as  the  printer  has  to  distinguish  readily 
the  succession  and  order  of  the  different  colours.  It  may  either  re- 
present a  figure  to  fill  the  breadth  of  the  intended  fabric,  or  one 
which  is  to  be  repeated  several  times  side  by  side  in  the  breadth, 
and  each  square  may  either  represent  a  single  yarn  or  a  number  of 
yarns,  according  as  the  texture  of  the  fabric  is  to  be  fine  or  coarse. 

*  The  operator  must  be  careful  not  to  apply  light  pink,  light  yellow,  sky 
blue,  pea  green,  or  French  white  on  a  black  or  dark  bottom,  as  none  of  these 
delicate  tints  would  appear  to  advantage  on  such  a  surface. 


CARPETING.  233 

Repetitions  of  the  same  figure  in  the  breadth  will  admit  of  several 
yarns  being  coloured  alike  at  one  operation,  and  the  trouble  of  after- 
wards separating  these  yarns  may  be  avoided  by  keeping  the  coils 
of  the  different  yarns  distinct  from  each  other  npon  the  cylinder. 
Tile  numbers  along  the  top  border  of  the  design  paper.  Fig.  Ill, 
(for  instance,  from  1  to  43  in  Fig.  Ill,)  represent  tiie  different  sets 
of  yarns  in  the  warp  which  are  to.be  rendered  party-coloured  to- 
gether by  one  operation.  Suppose,  for  instance,  that  it  will  take 
six  yarns  of  the  warp,  side  by  side,  to  fill  each  of  the  squares  across 
the  breadth  of  the  fabric,  that  will  be  6  times  43  or  258  yarns,  side 
by  side,  in  the  whole  warp,  to  produce  the  pattern  Fig.  111.  In 
that  case  6  bobbins  a  a.  Fig.  106,  must  be  used,  and  as  many  yarns 
must  be  wound  together  round  the  oiled  cloth  covering  of  the  cylin- 
der A  A,  by  attaching  their  ends  thereto  with  pins,  and  then  turn- 
ing the  cylinder  round  by  a  suitable  crank.  The  traversing  mo- 
tion which  the  screw  d  d,  then  gives  to  the  conductor  G  G,  will  lay 
each  of  the  six  yarns  in  regular  coils  close  side  by  side  on  the  cylin- 
der, so  that  the  succeeding  coils  of  each  yarn  will  just  touch  one 
another.  The  number  of  circumvolutions  of  each  yarn  which  must 
be  thus  wound  upon  the  cylinder,  will  be  determined  by  the  num- 
ber of  repetitions  of  the  pattern  required  to  be  made  in  the  whole 
piece  of  the  fabric  w^iich  is  intended  to  be  woven  for  one  warp ; 
and  when  the  required  length  of  yarns  is  wound  on,  the  successive 
coils  made  by  each  yarn  will  cover  up  the  space  allotted  for  it  on 
the  breadth  of  the  cylinder,  so  as  to  join  to  the  space  allotted  for  the 
next  yarn,  whereby  the  whole  surface  of  the  cylinder  will  be  cov- 
ered with  coils ;  which  being  done,  the  ends  of  the  yarns  are  cut 
off  and  secured  to  the  oiled  cloth  covering  of  the  cyUnder  with  pins, 
and  then  those  yarns  are  ready  to  receive  the  party-colours  from  the 
printing  rulers  or  sticks,  in  the  manner  herein  before  described ; 
and  it  only  remains  to  explain  how  the  proper  order  of  succession 
of  colours  is  determined  by  aid  of  the  design  paper.  Fig.  Ill,  viz. 
The  cylinder  is  turned  round  until  the  division  1  of  the  tape  1 1, 
(Fig.  113)  around  its  circumference  is  brought  to  an  index  mark, 
which  is  made  on  any  suitable  part  of  the  fixed  frame  for  that  pur- 
pose, and  the  cyUnder  is  fastened  there  by  means  of  a  stop  x,  Fig. 
112,  which  is  jointed  to  the  fixed  frame  at  one  end,  and  the  other 
end  formed  with  a  sharp  hooked  point  to  stick  into  the  wood  of  the 
cylinder.  This  being  done,  the  printer  refers  to  the  design  paper. 
Fig.  Ill,  and  finding  that  the  four  first  sets  of  yarns  at  the  border 
of  the  warp  do  not  require  to  be  party-coloured,  he  proceeds  to  the 
number  5  along  the  top  margin  thereof,  and  finds  thereby  that  the 

30 


234  THE    ART    OP    WEAVING. 

six  yarns  which  he  is  going  to  colour  will  be  the  fifth  set  in  the  in- 
tended warp,  reckoning  from  the  border  of  the  warp,  then  proceed- 
ing downwards  under  that  number  5,  he  finds  the  first  coloured 
square  in  the  pattern  is  number  22  down  the  margin,  and  also  that 
the  said  square  22  is  painted  green,  therefore,  he  knows  he  is  to 
take  a  printing  ruler  furnished  with  green  colour,  and  laying  that 
ruler  upon  the  shelf  F,  he  presses  it  towards  the  cylinder  and  makes 
the  first  impression  across  the  yarns  upon  the  cylinder.  He  then 
turns  the  cyhnder  round  to  division  23,  and  looking  to  square  num- 
ber 23  down  the  margin  of  his  design  paper,  (still  under  number  5 
at  top,)  he  finds  that  square  to  be  also  green,  and  therefore  he  knows 
that  he  is  to  make  another  impression  with  the  same  printing  stick, 
after  refurnishing  it  with  green  colour  :  after  which  he  turns  the 
cylinder  round  to  division  24,  and  by  reference  to  his  design  paper, 
he  finds  it  again  to  indicate  another  impression  of  green  colour,  and 
after  that  another  repetition  thereof,  at  division  25. 

These  four  being  done,  he  finds  by  referring  to  his  design  paper 
and  proceeding  downwards  (still  under  number  5  at  top)  that  no 
more  party-colours  are  required  on  the  fifth  set  of  yarns  until  the 
48th  square,  which  is  a  light  blue  colour  ;  therefore,  he  turns  the 
cylinder  round,  forward  as  far  as  its  48th  division,  and  fastening  it 
there  makes  an  impression  with  a  ruler  furnished  with  a  light  blue 
colour,  which  being  done,  another  reference  to  his  design  paper 
shows  him,  that  he  must  again  turn  the  cylinder  forward  to  its  53d 
division,  and  there  apply  an  impression  in  dark  blue  colour  ;  and, 
lastly,  that  he  must  again  turn  the  cylinder  forward  to  its  58th  di- 
vision, and  there  apply  a  green  impression  ;  after  which  the  said 
fifth  set  of  yarns,  then  wound  on  the  cylinder,  will  be  completed 
and  rendered  party-coloured  at  every  part  of  their  length  where  the 
pattern  requires  them  to  be  so  coloured,  unless  the  cylinder  is  so 
large  as  to  require  the  pattern  to  be  repeated  twice  or  thrice  in 
going  round  it,  in  which  case  he  repeats  the  operation  accordingly. 
And,  note,  if  the  yarns  have  not  been  previously  dyed,  as  herein- 
before mentioned,  with  an  uniform  colour,  proper  for  the  intended 
ground  on  which  the  pattern  is  to  be  represented,  then,  (unless  the 
ground  is  to  be  white,)  the  ground  colour  must  be  applied  to  the 
yarns  by  making  successive  impressions  thereon  with  a  printing 
ruler  furnished  with  the  said  ground  colour,  making  such  an  im- 
pression whenever  the  cylinder  is  detained  at  one  of  its  divisions, 
whereof  the  number  corresponds  to  the  mmiber  of  the  squares  in 
the  pattern  paper,  (beneath  number  5  at  top,)  which  squares  are 
there  filled  with  the  said  ground  colour,  viz.,  the  squares  numbered 


CARPETING.  235 

1  to  21,  in  Fig  111,  and  then  the  squares  numbered  26  to  47,  and 
49  to  52,  54  to  57,  and  59  to  72.  And,  note,  when  the  design 
paper  indicates  that  impressions  of  the  same  colour  are  to  be  re- 
peated in  succession,  those  repetitions  may  be  expedited  by  using 
printing  rulers  of  double  or  treble  the  usual  breadth  of  one  division 
on  the  circumference  of  the  cylinder.  The  fifth  set  of  yarns  (con- 
sisting, in  this  instance,  of  6  yarns  in  number)  being  now  rendered 
party-coloured,  the  moveable  portions  H  H  of  the  circumference  of 
the  cylinder  are  folded  inwards,  in  the  manner  represented  in  Figs. 
114  and  115,  and  as  before  described,  in  order  to  slacken  and  set 
the  yarns  loose  thereon ;  and  then  the  oiled  cloth  cover  with  the 
yarns  upon  it  is  removed  from  the  circumference  of  the  cylinder, 
which  is  immediately  put  together  again,  and  another  clean  oil 
cloth  is  applied  thereon,  in  readiness,  for  receiving  the  next  set  of 
yarns  which  are  to  be  rendered  party-coloured,  according  to  the  order 
of  succession  which  is  indicated  by  tracing  the  design  paper  Fig. 
Ill,  from  the  square  numbered  6  at  top  downwards  through  all  the 
squares  beneath  the  same.  Each  set  of  yarns  which  is  removed 
from  the  cylinder  along  with  the  oil  cloth  covering  thereof,  as  be- 
fore mentioned,  is  kept  extended  over  two  sticks  until  the  colours 
become  dry,  and  then  the  yarns  are  made  up  into  a  large  hank  or 
bundle,  and  submitted  to  steam  by  the  usual  process  of  steam  print- 
ing, in  order  to  fix  the  colours,  and  the  yarns  are  then  washed  in 
water,  to  remove  the  gum  or  paste  with  which  the  colours  were 
mixed  up,  and  after  being  dried,  the  yarns  are  wound  off  upon  bob- 
bins in  readiness  for  forming  them  into  a  warp  for  the  loom.  In 
forming  which  warp,  each  set  of  party-coloured  yarns  must  take 
their  proper  place  in  the  breadth  of  the  warp  for  which  they  were 
originally  intended  when  they  were  coloured  with  the  succession  of 
colours  which  is  indicated  by  the  design  paper.  In  forming  the  warp 
by  drawing  otF  the  yarns  from  the  said  bobbins,  it  may  either  be 
beamed  on  the  yarn  roller  of  the  loom,  or  the  yarns  may  proceed 
at  once  from  their  bobbins  to  the  loom,  to  be  drawn  off  there-from, 
as  fast  as  the  operation  of  weaving  requires. 

Respecting  the  weaving  of  figured  fabrics  out  of  yarns  which 
have  been  rendered  party  coloured,  suitably  for  that  purpose,  by 
Whytock's  method,  hereinbefore  described,  it  is  only  necessary  to 
remark,  that  the  loom  may  be  such  as  is  commonly  used  for  plain 
weaving,  without  any  of  the  apparatus  required  for  figure  weaving, 
and  the  manipulations  may  be  the  same  as  those  for  plain  weaving 
of  the  like  fabrics  to  those  on  which  it  is  intended  to  produce 
figured  patterns  by  using  party  coloured  yarns.    And,  on  this  head, 


236  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

it  only  remains  to  explain  a  precautionary  measure  which  is  used 
during  the  progress  of  the  weaving,  to  ensure  that  all  the  several 
yarns  of  the  warp  shall  preserve  their  proper  relative  positions  in 
the  direction  of  their  length,  without  any  alteration  thereof,  during 
the  weaving,  from  one  end  of  the  piece  to  the  other,  viz.  In  ap- 
plying the  colour  to  each  set  of  yarns,  eitlier  the  first  or  the  last  of 
the  impressions,  which  is  made,  when  the  cylinder  stands  at  its 
division  1,  must  be  of  such  a  decided  character,  that  its  place  on 
every  yarn  can  always  be  distinguished  with  certain t}^ ;  or,  a  nar- 
row black  impression  may  be  made  across  ever)^  set  of  the  yarns, 
when  the  cylinder  stands  at  its  division  1,  as  a  common  starting 
place  for  all  the  yarns,  and  for  all  the  sets  of  yarns  ;  which  decided 
impression,  or  narrow  black  impression,  in  consequence  of  the  cir- 
cumvolutions which  the  yarns  make  around  the  cyhnder,  will  be 
repeated  at  every  place  along  the  length  of  each  yarn,  where  the 
repetitions  of  the  pattern  are  intended  to  begin  and  to  end.  In 
short,  when  the  part}'  coloured  yarns  are  afterwards  formed  into  a 
warp,  the  said  marks  will  indicate  the  junctions  of  the  successive 
repetitions  of  the  pattern  ;  and  if  the  yarns  are  all  adjusted  so  that 
those  marks  on  each  yarn  will  range  in  a  straight  line,  square 
across  the  breadth  of  the  warp,  then  a  correct  pattern  will  be 
formed  by  the  party  colours  of  the  yarns ;  and  all  the  precaution 
that  is  required  during  the  progress  of  the  weaving,  is  to  keep  all 
the  yarns  so  adjusted  in  length,  that  all  others  of  the  said  marks, 
at  every  succeeding  repetition  of  the  pattern,  shall  continue  to  range 
in  straight  lines,  and  square  across.  To  ensure  this  condition,  a 
clamp,  similar  to  that  represented  in  Fig.  110  is  used,  which  is 
composed  of  two  straight  rulers  W  X,  united  by  screws  v.  v,  which 
draw  the  edges  of  the  two  rulers  W  X  together,  and  their  adjacent 
edges  are  covered  with  cloth.  This  clamp  is  applied  across  the 
warp,  with  one  of  its  rulers  above  the  yarns  and  the  other  below 
them,  near  to  the  place  where  the  said  marks  must  range  in  a 
straight  line,  square  across  the  warp,  and  there  the  clamp  is  fast- 
ened by  its  screws  v,  v,  so  as  to  hold  all  the  yarns  fast  j^etween  the 
edges  of  its  two  rulers  W  X,  in  order  to  confine  them  to  their  rela- 
tive positions  end  ways  in  respect  to  each  other.  As  the  weaving 
proceeds,  the  clamp  Fig.  110  advances  along  with  the  yarn;  and 
when  the  length  of  the  pattern  has  been  woven,  the  weaving  must 
be  suspended,  whilst  the  screws  v,  v,  of  the  clamp  are  loosened,  to 
set  it  free  on  the  yarns,  and  it  is  then  taken  back  along  with  them, 
to  the  next  succeeding  marks  ;  and,  if  those  marks  do  not  range  in 
a  straight  Une,  and  square  across  the  warp  as  they  ouglit  to  do, 


CARPETING.  237 

those  yarns  which  are  too  forward  must  be  pulled  back  or  stretched 
until  the  marks  are  made  to  range,  and  then  the  clamp  is  to  be 
again  screwed  fast  on  the  yarns,  to  confine  them  in  their  true 
relative  positions,  whilst  another  length  of  pattern  is  woven ;  after 
which  the  clamp  is  again  shifted  to  the  next  succeeding  set  of 
marks  and  so  on  until  the  weaving  of  the  whole  piece  is  completed. 
This  method  of  working  with  the  clamp  Fig.  110  during  the  pro- 
gress of  the  weaving,  is  only  requisite  in  case  the  yarns  are  drawn 
ofl'  at  once  from  the  bobbins  to  form  the  warp  in  the  loom  as  the 
weaving  goes  on,  without  using  a  yarn  beam  to  the  loom :  but,  if 
the  warp  is  formed  and  gathered  on  a  yarn  beam  by  a  previous 
operation  to  the  weaving,  then  the  clamp  Fig.  110  must  be  used  in 
the  manner  above  described  during  the  operation  of  beaming,  but 
it  will  not  be  afterwards  required  during  the  weaving  of  the  warp 
which  has  been  so  formed  from  the  yarn  beam. 

Note.  It  has  been,  by  way  of  example,  stated  that  the  design, 
Fig.  Ill,  contains  72  squares  in  length,  and  that  the  circumference 
of  the  cylinder  is  to  be  divided  also  into  72  parts ;  but  this  supposes 
a  pattern  of  small  extent,  and  a  small  cylinder.  A  large  pattern 
would  require  a  large  cylinder,  but  on  a  large  cylinder  a  small  pat- 
tern might  be  repeated  two,  three,  or  more  times.  The  cylinders 
which  the  inventor  uses  in  rendering  yarns  party  coloured  for  a  vel- 
vet pile  carpet,  are  6  yards  in  circumference  ;  but  he  finds  it  prefera- 
ble to  divide  the  circumference  into  144  parts,  and  then  144  succes- 
sive impressions  of  the  printing  rulers  will  be  required  to  go  all  round 
the  circumference :  in  which  case  a  small  pattern  of  72  squares  in 
length,  like  that  in  Fig.  Ill,  would  require  to  be  repeated  twice  over, 
in  applying  the  party  colours  to  each  set  of  the  yarns,  after  the 
manner  hereinbefore  described,  before  the  impressions  would  reach 
all  round  the  circumference  of  the  cylinder.  Note  also,  that 
the  operation  hereinbefore  described,  of  rendering  the  yarns  party 
coloured,  may  be  expedited  in  case  the  pattern  is  of  such  a  na- 
ture that  it  will  admit  of  being  divided  or  split  down  by  a 
central  line,  along  the  middle  of  the  breadth  of  the  piece,  into 
halves,  and  that  the  pattern  on  each  of  those  two  halves  will  be 
precisely  similar  side  by  side,  except  being  the  reverse  one  to  the 
other,  as  the  pattern  would  be  to  its  reflection  in  a  looking  glass. 
In  such  case  twice  as  many  yarns  may  be  applied  at  once  upon  the 
cylinder,  as  would  be  applied  for  a  single  pattern,  in  the  manner 
hereinbefore  described,  the  width  of  the  cyhnder  being  suitably  pro- 
portioned ;  and  after  the  double  set  of  yarns  have  been  rendered 
party  coloured,  one  half  of  them  is  taken  in  the  operation  of  warp- 


238  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

ing  and  weaving  to  the  left  hand  of  the  centre  of  the  breadth  of 
the  warp,  and  the  other  to  the  right ;  and  in  hke  manner  for  pat- 
terns which  are  to  repeat  three  or  more  times  side  by  side  in  the 
breadth  of  the  intended  fabric.  For  instance,  if  tlie  fabric  which 
is  to  be  woven  to  exhibit  the  pattern,  Fig.  Ill,  be  made  double  the 
width  hereinbefore  supposed,  in  order  to  contain  two  figured 
patterns,  such  as  Fig.  Ill,  but  reversed  to  each  other,  and 
disposed  side  by  side  in  the  breadth  of  the  fabric,  tlien,  the 
warp  for  such  a  fabric  would  contain  86  sets  of  yarns  of  6  each, 
516  yarns  in  the  whole  warp.  In  this  case  a  double  set  con- 
taining 12  yarns  may  be  wound  on  the  cy Under  at  once,  in  order 
that  all  those  12  yarns  may  be  coloured  together,  and  after  being 
so  coloured  and  finished  ready  for  forming  into  a  warp,  the  12  yarns 
are  to  be  separated  into  2  sets  of  6  yarns  each,  and  one  of  those  sets 
is  used  for  the  right  hand  half  breadth  of  the  piece,  and  the  other  set 
for  the  left  hand  breadth  thereof  But  whether  the  whole  pattern 
be  repeated  in  reverse  or  not,  any  repetition  side  by  side  which  con- 
tinues through  all  the  length  of  the  pattern  wiU  aflford  the  opportu- 
nity of  colouring  an  increased  number  of  threads  at  once. 

The  colouring  will  in  all  cases  be  better  performed  when  the  coils 
of  yarns  around  the  circumference  of  the  cylinder  are  laid  close  side 
by  side,  without  either  crowding  each  other  or  leaving  intervals  be- 
tween the  yarns ;  therefore,  the  pulley  e.  on  the  end  of  the  screw 
d  d,  (see  Fig.  3  06)  shovild  be  properly  adapted  to  the  size  of  the 
large  pulley  g,  (see  Fig.  112)  on  the  end  of  the  axis  D  of  the  cylin- 
der A  A.  according  to  the  fineness  of  the  threads  of  the  screw  d  d, 
in  order  that  the  screw  may  be  turned  with  such  a  speed  in  respect 
to  the  speed  of  the  cylinder,  that  the  screw  will  carry  the  conductor 
G  G  (see  Figs.  107,  108,  and  109)  across  the  width  of  the  cyhnder, 
or  any  portion  thereof,  at  a  proper  rate  of  progress  to  lay  the  succes- 
sive convolutions  of  the  yarns  properly  side  by  side  around  the  cir- 
cumference of  the  cylinder  ;  therefore,  when  a  coarser  sort  of  yarns 
are  to  be  wound  on,  a  smaller  pulley  e,  must  be  applied  on  the  screw 
d  d,  to  turn  it  quicker,  and  give  the  conductor  G  G  a  more  rapid 
progression ;  and,  vice  versa,  when  a  finer  sort  of  yarns  are  to  be 
wound  on,  a  larger  pulley  e,  must  be  fixed  on  the  end  of  the  screw 
to  turn  it  slower.*  The  number  of  yarns  to  be  wound  about  the 
cylinder  at  once  varies,  for  the  reasons  herein  before  stated,  and  also 


*  The  pulleys  e,  and  g,  being  on  the  same  range  in  Fig.  113,  would  appear 
to  constitute  only  onepullej^;  but  the  reader,  on  referring  to  Fig.  112  will 
easily  understand  their  relative  positions. 


CARPETING.  239 

the  number  of  convolutions  of  each  yarn  around  the  cyUnder  varies 
according  to  the  size  of  the  cyUnder,  and  to  the  length  of  the  yarns 
to  be  wound  around  it :  it  is  necessary  to  adapt  the  machinery  to 
those  changes,  for  which  purpose  the  wire  eyes  z,  which  are  stuck 
into  the  two  wooden  rails  R  S  of  the  conductor  G  G,  (see  Figs.  106, 
107  and  108)  and  the  loops  on  m,  which  guide  the  yarns,  may  be 
very  numerous  in  a  row,  and  the  yarns  may  be  conducted  through 
those  eyes  which  suit  best. 

In  order  to  preserve  as  much  as  possible  the  form  and  regularity 
of  the  several  coils  made  by  each  yarn  and  set  of  yarns,  around  the 
cylinder,  after  they  are  taken  off  therefrom,  and  during  the  processes 
of  steaming  and  washing  them,  as  aforesaid,  it  is  proper  to  pass  a 
small  cord  of  worsted  amongst  the  convolutions,  under  and  over 
them  alternately,  tying  its  ends  together.  This  interlacing  of  a  cord 
across  the  several  coils  may  be  applied  at  two  different  places  of  each 
set  of  coils,  before  they  are  taken  off  from  the  cylinder,  and  it  will 
facilitate  the  winding  afterwards  upon  bobbins,  as  it  will  preserve 
the  yarns  from  entanglement. 

In  rendering  the  yarns  party-coloured  for  Turkey  carpets,  they 
must  be  coloured  by  the  same  method  herein  before  described,  but 
with  the  order  of  succession  of  colours  according  to  the  horizontal 
rows  of  squares  across  the  design  paper,  instead  of  according  to  the 
perpendicular  rows  of  squares  thereon  ;  because  the  figures  or  pat- 
terns on  Turkey  carpets  are  not  formed  as  in  the  other  fabrics  herein 
before  mentioned,  by  gathering  up  the  warp  threads,  but  by  loop- 
ing and  knotting  in  detached  tufts  upon  the  ground  warp.  In  the 
ordinary  mode  of  fabricating  such  carpets,  different  individuals  are 
generally  employed  on  one  piece  of  carpet,  each  of  them  having  cer- 
tain portions  allotted  to  him,  and  which  he  is  to  fill  with  tufts.  In 
using  the  party-coloured  yarns  for  these  tufts,  the  portions  given  to 
each  of  the  workers  must  be  coloured,  so  as  to  correspond  to  the 
part  of  the  figure  he  is  to  work,  or  if  the  yarn  has  been  coloured  for 
a  very  extensive  pattern,  each  long  yarn  might  be  divided  into 
equal  portions,  and  distributed  amongst  the  number  of  hands  to  be 
employed,  whereby  there  would  be  less  risk  of  mistakes  than  in  the 
ordinary  method  :  the  tuft  with  which  one  person  would  leave  off 
would  answer  to  the  commencing  colour  of  the  next  portion. 

Having  explained  and  set  forth,  by  suitable  drawings  and  des- 
cription, the  nature  and  objects  of  Mr.  Whytock's  invention  and 
the  manner  of  carrying  the  same  into  effect,  we  shall  now  proceed 
to  describe  some  alterations  made  upon  it  by  a  relation  of  ours,  Mr. 
Edward   Henshall,  carpet  manufacturer,   Huddersfield,  England. 


240  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

The  reader  will,  indeed,  perceive,  that  Whytock's  description  covers 
most  of  the  giouud  claimed  by  Henshall,  but,  nevertheless,  ihere 
are  some  features  of  novelty  or  difference  in  the  latter  individual's 
arrangements  worthy  of  attention  ;  and  from  this  consideration  we 
have  been  led  to  make  proper  drawings*  of  his  machinery  while  in 
actual  operation  ;  in  which  undertaking  we  have  been  at  much 
trouble  and  expense  :  however,  we  will  not  grudge  all  that  we  have 
thus  sacrificed,  if  by  any  means  the  machinery  and  processes  of 
Whytock  and  Henshall  shall  be  so  amalgamated  as  to  enable  some 
of  our  brethren  to  supersede  the  present  tedious  system  of  manufac- 
turing carpets.  If  even  25  or  30  yards  of  Bi-ussels,  velvet  pile, 
or  the  Whytock  carpet  could  be  woven  in  one  power  loom  per  day, 
of  10  working  hours,  we  think  the  old  method  migbt  then  be  con- 
sidered as  on  the  high  road  to  Texas  ;  and  after  its  disappearance 
from  all  civilized  society,  the  parties  who  survived  the  grand  catastro- 
phe (particularly  if  high-tarif-men)  would,  no  doubt,  make  mag- 
nificent fortunes. 

Henshall's  improvements  in  manufacturing  carpets,  and  hearth 
rugs,  consist.  Firstly. — In  the  application  and  use  of  a  peculiar  and 
novel  arrangement  of  apparatus,  designed  for  the  purpose  of  wind- 
ing the  threads  of  yarns  which  are  to  constitute  the  warp  threads 
of  Brussels,  Wilton,  velvet,  or  velvet  piled,  or  other  similar  carpets 
and  hearth-rugs,  from  separate  hanks  of  yarn,  and  laying  two, 
three,  or  more  threads,  side  by  side,  as  if  in  tapes  or  bands  upon 
one  bobbin,  and  thus  preparing  the  threads  for  a  two  or  three-thread 
warp,  before  they  are  placed  in  the  loom  for  weaving,  (same  as  in 
Whytock's.) 

Secondly. — The  invention  consists  in  an  improved  construction 
of  apparatus,  and  a  novel  mode  of  operation,  as  well  as  the  pecu- 
liar arrangement  of  the  yarns  which  are  to  constitute  warp  threads, 
whereby,  spots,  squares,  or  stripes,  may  be  printed  upon  a  flat  sur- 
face or  table,  by  means  of  an  ordinary  block  or  type  printing  appa- 
ratus, in  different  colours,  across  a  collection  or  number  of  yarns  or 
threads  so  arranged,  that  they  may,  after  being  so  printed  upon 
the  table,  be  wound  again  upon  a  reel  into  hanks,  and  taken  off 
the  reel,  and  removed  to  be  steamed,  washed,  and  dried,  in  order  to 
clear,  raise,  or  fix  the  colours,  as  in  the  ordinary  process  of  printing 
woollen  yarns. 

It  must  be  observed,  that  each  spot,  square,  or  stripe,  may  be 
printed  or  stamped  of  any  breadth  of  the  block,  or  length  of  the 
threads  or  yarns,  according  to  the  pattern  required,  as  the  portion 
*Thi?  we  did  in  August  1840. 


CARPETING.  241 

of  the  yarn  so  printed  or  stamped  is  intended  to  form  one  or  more 
loops  of  the  fabric,  when  thrown  up  by  the  weaving  ;  that  is  to  say, 
if  two  or  more  loops,  in  succession,  are  required  to  be  of  the  same 
colour,  to  form  the  pattern  of  the  carpet,  the  threads  or  yarns  must 
be  printed  or  coloured  at  once,  over  a  sufficient  space  of  the  length, 
to  form  these  two  or  more  loops  ;  this  may  be  done  with  a  block  or 
type  of  the  required  breadth  or  length  for  two  or  more  loops  in  the 
cloth,  hereafter  more  particularly  explained.  (See  Fig.  Ill  and  its 
explanation.) 

The  object  of  this  part  of  the  invention,  is  to  operate  upon  a 
greater  number  of  threads  or  yarns,  and  produce  the  printed,  or 
stamped,  spotted,  or  striped  yarns,  direct  from  the  bobbins  ;  and 
after  printing  or  colouring,  to  wind  them  at  once  direct  from  the 
printing  table  into  separate  hanks,  all  of  which  is  done  at  one  ope- 
ration. These  warps,  when  subsequently  arranged,  form  the  warps 
of  as  many  carpets,  or  hearth-rugs,  in  contra-distinction  to  printing, 
stamping,  or  colouring  the  yarns  collectively,  when  arranged  in  the 
form  of  a  warp,  with  a  pattern  or  device  complete  upon  the  sur- 
face of  such  warp,  and  ready  to  be  woven  in  the  loom,  as  hitherto 
practised  under  the  patented  inventions  of  Messrs.  Woodcroft, 
Schwabe,  Whytock,  and  Whytock  and  Clink ;  the  first  two  per- 
sons printing  or  dyeing  the  intended  pattern  or  device  complete  upon 
the  perfect  or  arranged  warp,  either  before  or  after  beaming  ;  and 
the  latter,  either  printing  on  yarns,  wound  on  a  cylinder,  or  producing 
the  colours  by  dyeing  the  said  )'arns. 

When  the  threads  or  yarns  have  been  so  printed,  they  are  pro- 
perly arranged,  as  hereafter  described,  in  order  to  form  the  warp 
threads  of  the  carpets  and  hearth-rugs  ;  they  are  then  woven  in  an 
ordinary  carpet  loom.  This  part  of  the  invention  also  comprises  the 
arrangement  of  the  threads,  and  apparatus  connected  therewith. 

Thirdly. — These  alterations  on  Whytock's  plans  consist  of  an 
arrangement  of  machinery,  by  means  of  which,  the  warp,  yarn,  or 
threads,  or  warp  throughout  its  whole  length,  can  be  woven  into  a 
slight  gauze-work,  having  weft  threads  put  in  at  distances  of  about 
an  inch  asunder  ;  and  this  is  done  during  the  operation  of  beaming 
the  warp  direct  from  the  bobbins. 

After  the  warp-yarn  has  been  thus  prepared,  patterifs  or  designs 
may  be  printed  upon  its  surface,  in  the  ordinary  manner  of  block 
printing. 

In  printing  the  gauze,  the  pattern-blocks  must  be  elongated  when 
intended  for  Brussels  or  similar  carpets  or  hearth-rugs,  as  before 
named ;  and  this  is  accomplished  by  providing  the  block,  upon 

31 


242 


THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 


which  the  pattern  is  wrought,  about  three-fifths  longer  than  the 
finished  pattern  will  require,  when  the  cloth  is  completed,  as  the 
operation  of  weaving  will  weave,  or  loop  up,  the  extra  three-fifths 
of  printed  gauze.  The  gauze,  when  printed,  is  removed  to  be 
steamed,  washed,  and  dried,  in  the  ordinary  manner  of  woollen 
printing  ;  after  which,  it  is  re-beamed,  and  woven  in  an  ordinary 
plain  carpet  loom,  the  preparatory  weft  threads  of  the  gauze,  bemg 
removed  as  the  cloth  is  woven. 

Fourthly. — The  improvements  consist  in  weaving,  in  a  common 
simple  loom,  Brussels  or  similar  carpets,  or  looped  fabrics,  as  Wil- 
ton or  velvet  piled  carpets  and  hearth-rugs,  plain,  either  in  white  or 
grey  yarn,  or  any  colour,  intended  as  the  ground  of  the  pattern ; 
and  afterwards  printing  upon  the  said  plain  goods,  any  pattern  or 
device,  in  the  ordinary  manner  of  block  or  machine  printing,  the 
colour  parts  of  which  may  be  raised,  washed,  and  dried  in  the  usual 
way.  The  carpet  is  then  distended,  and  the  back  stiffened  with 
size  or  other  suitable  matter,  as  may  be  found  requisite. 

Kg  116 


243 


Fig.  116  represents  a  front  elevation  of  an  improved  winding  ap- 
paratus, constituting  the  first  part  of  the  improvements  ;  Fig.  117  is 
an  end  view ;  and  Fig.  118  is  a  plan  or  horizontal  view  of  the  same, 
as  seen  from  above.  These  Figs,  will  be  sufficient  to  illustrate  two 
methods  of  carrying  this  part  of  the  invention  into  effect,  viz. 
doubling  from  hanks,  or  skeins,  or  separate  bobbins,  as  one  side  of 
the  frame  is  represented  having  the  hanks  or  skeins,  and  the  other 
the  bobbins. 

The  machine  consists  of  a  slight  frame  a,  a,  a,  the  upper  part  of 
which  supports  the  reels  6,  6,  6,  (see  Figs.  116  and  117)  containing 
the  hanks  of  yarn  c,  c,  c.  The  lower  part  of  the  framing  supports 
the  driving  shaft  c?,  d,  (see  Figs.  116  and  118)  upon  which  is  keyed 
the  pulley  e*,  to  which  driving  power  is  to  be  appUed.  Upon  this 
shaft  c?,  a  series  of  wooden  drums/,/./,  are  also  mounted,  which 
revolve  with  it  and  drive,  by  friction  of  contact,  the  bobbins  g,g. 
and  m,  m. 


244 


THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 


The  yarns  or  threads  being  taken  separately  from  the  hanks 
c,  c,  c,  two,  three,  or  more  of  them  are  brought  together,  and  passed 
through  the  eyes  h,  in  the  stationary  guide-rail  i,  i  ;  thence  through 
the  eyes  or  hooks  A*,  /i*,  on  the  traversing  guide-rail  i*,  i*,  (see  Figs. 
116  and  117.)  These  threads  are  then  wound  upon  one  of  the 
bobbins  g;  side  by  side,  so  that  the  two,  three,  or  more,  will  readily 
unwind  from  the  bobbins,  at  the  same  speed,  and  thus  always  pre- 
serve an  uniformity,  in  length  and  tension. 

The  guide-rails  i*,  are  traversed  to  and  fro,  in  order  to  lay  the 
yarn  evenly  upon  the  surfaces  of  the  bobbins,  by  means  of  the  lever 
k,  being  moved  by  the  heart  or  excentric  motion  I,  (see  Figs.  116 
and  117)  geared  with  the  other  end  of  the  driving  shaft. 

It  will  be  observed,  by  the  drawing,  that  a  similar  arrangement 
is  represented  upon  the  other  side  of  the  machine,  except  that  the 
three  threads  are  being  wound  together  upon  the  bobbin  m,  from  off 
bobbins  n,n,  (see  Figs.  117  and  118)  instead  of  the  reels  b,b,  or 
hanks  c,  c,  c. 


The  apparatus  necessary  to  perform  the  second  part  of  the  im- 
provements, namely,  the  arranging,  printing,  or  stamping,  and  reel- 
ing of  the  threads  or  yarns,  intended  to  be  woven  into  carpets  or 
rugs,  is  shewn  in  longitudinal  elevation  at  Fig.  119. 

Any  number  of  bobbins  containing  the  yarns,  are  placed  at  a',  a', 
upon  spindles  mounted  (either  vertically  or  in  any  other  manner)  in 
the  boards  6^,  as  a  creel,  the  yarns  from  which  are  passed  between 
the  friction  guide  rollers  c*,  c*,  and  one,  two,  or  more  threads  (ac- 


CARPETING. 


245 


246  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

cording  to  the  quality  of  the  carpet  required)  are  drawn  through 
each  space  of  the  wires  in  the  sley  or  reed  e  ;  say  ten  or  twenty  of 
sucli  threads  are  passed  through  the  reed,  side  by  side,  and  form  a 
band ;  a  space  or  blank,  of  about  the  same  width  as  the  band  of 
yarns,  is  then  left  in  the  reed ;  and  again,  a  similar  number  of 
threads  and  spaces  are  left  alternately,  until  the  reed  is  filled.  The 
ends  of  all  the  threads  are  then  to  be  confined  in  a  nipper  or  clasp 
g^.  and  di-awn  tightly  across  the  printing  or  stamping  table  h^.  The 
operation  of  ordinary  block-printing  or  stamping,  is  now  to  be  per- 
formed, which  must  be  governed  by  the  pattern  paper,  as  in  ordi- 
nary figme  weaving  ;  spots,  stripes,  or  squares,  only,  are  to  be  printed 
or  stamped,  and  not  any  regular  fancy  pattern  or  device. 

It  -^ill  be  necessary  to  have  an  ordinary  squared  or  plaid  pattern 
paper,  every  square  or  plaid  of  which  corresponds  ^^ilh  each  two  or 
three  threads  of  the  intended  carpet,  as  in  Fig.  Ill ;  and  after  the 
pattern,  to  be  produced,  has  been  carefully  coloured  upon  the  design 
or  ruled  paper,  by  examinmg  the  paper,  the  workman  or  printer 
must  be  governed  or  directed  in  printing  or  colouring  the  yarn. 

Small  blocks  or  types,  the  breadth  of  the  band  of  threads,  and  the 
length  required  for  one,  two,  or  more  loops  of  the  carpet,  when 
woven,  must  be  provided,  according  as  the  pattern  paper  directs,  and 
screwed  up  into  a  small  hand  block,  like  those  used  for  marking 
shirts ; — thus,  if  the  pattern  directs  one  loop  should  be  prhited  or 
stamped  black,  one  type  or  block  must  be  placed  to  print  or  stamp 
it,  and  then  the  number  of  blanks  and  printing  types  which  follow, 
are  added,  until  one  hand  block  of  a  convenient  length,  is  formed ; 
the  whole  being  screwed  together ;  or  a  single  block  may  be  used, 
taking  one  or  more  colours  from  a  party-coloured  sieve,  at  the  same 
dip,  and  applying  it  direct  to  the  yarns. 

When  the  entire  bands  or  lengths  of  the  warp  threads  have  been 
piiiited  or  stamped,  as  they  are  passed  over  the  table,  they  must  be 
each  distinguished  by  a  number  or  letter.*  After  the  length  of 
threads,  lying  at  one  time  upon  the  surface  of  the  table  A'^,  /i'^,  Fig. 
119,  has  been  printed  or  stamped,  the  nipper  or  clasp  £•',  is  tobe 
closed  on  to  the  threads  which  pass  over  the  table  h".  h".  in  order  to 
remove  the  length  just  printed  and  allow  another  length  of  the  yarns 
to  be  drawn  over  the  printing  table. 

The  printed  or  stamped  threads  are  hung  upon  wooden  rollers 
to  partially  dry  (as  shown  in  Fig.  119)  and  are  afterwards  com- 
pletely dried,  by  passing  over  the  heated  cylinder  V  :  thence  they 

*  Insti^ad  of  the  waymarks  or  hieroglyphics  used  by  WTiylock. 


CARPETING. 


247 


proceed  over  guide  rails  w,  and  being  there  separated  by  upright 
wires,  are  wound  into  hanks  upon  the  reels  71  n. 

The  hanks  must  also  be  carefully  numbered,  when  taken  off 
the  reels,  each  hank  forming  only  one  warp  thread,  the  entire 
length  of  the  piece,— the  same  numbers  being  of  course  em- 
ployed, as  previously  marked  in  the  printing  ;  they  may  then 
be  steamed,  washed  and  dried,  or  otherwise  treated,  as  in  woollen 
printing. 

When  these  hanks  are  required  to  form  the  warp  threads  of 
carpets  or  rugs,  they  are  to  be  wound  again  upon  bobbins,  which 
are  numbered  the  same  as  the  hanks.  The  bobbins  should  then 
be  taken  in  their  numbered  order,  and  in  sufficient  quantities  to 
make  a  full  warp,  as  we  have  already  explained  in  the  account  of 
Whytock's  carpet. 

The  bobbins  a  a,  are  now  to  be  placed  upon  spindles  and  boards 
6^  as  just  described,  shown  in  Figs.  116,  117  and  120,  beginning 
with  thread  No.  1,  and  passing  it  through  the  first  space  of  the  sley 
or  reed  e,  and  so  on  for  the  entire  width  ;  then  the  full  warp  is  to 
be  beamed  on  the  roller /- /^  for  the  loom  (see  Fig.  121)  direct 
from  the  bobbins,— which  being  done,  the  beam  of  warp  may  be 
removed  to  a  common  plain  cloth  loom  (hke  that  shown  in  Fig. 
120)  to  be  woven. 

Fig.  120. 


Figs.  121  and  122  represent  a  plan  and  side  view  of  a  slight 


248 


THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 


temporary  loom,  in  which  the  thiid  part  of  these  improvements  is 

effected. 


ri°:l21 


Kg  122 


A  similar  creel  of  bobbins  a'  a'  a'  to  those  before  described,  are 
placed  upon  the  boards  and  spindles  6^  6^  and  contain  the  warp 
threads,  either  single,  double,  or  treble,  according  to  the  quahty  of 
the  mtended  fabric  ;  but,  iastead  of  beaming  ihem  at  once  for  the 
loom,  they  are  passed  over  guide  or  friction  rollers  c*  c*  through  the 
headles  d^  d^  and  reed  or  sley  e,  (see  Figs.  121  and  122)  and  at 
every  inch  or  more  of  space,  a  weft  thread  o^  is  thrown,  in  order  to 
convert  the  warp  tliread  or  yarns  into  a  preparatory  gauze-work, 


CARPETING. 


249 


without  weaving  any  positive  or  permanent  fabric  or  cloth  ;  thus  a 
partial  weaving  is  effected  with  the  temporary  cross  threads  o^,  by 
means  of  the  headles  d^  d^  and  sley  e  ;  the  gauze  is  then  drawn 
off  the  beani/-/^,  by  means  of  the  tooth  gearing  g^,  and  winch 
or  handle  li^,  and  is  then  ready  for  printing.  (See  Figs.  120  and 
122.) 

MANUFACTURE    OF  CARPETS,  RUGS,  Sec,   BY   CEMENTING 
A  NAP  OR  PILE  ON  PLAIN  CLOTH. 

A  method  of  manufacturing  carpets,  hearth-rugs  &.c.,  has  lately 
been  discovered,  which  differs  so  much  from  those  already  described, 
and  at  the  same  time  possesses  so  much  merit,  that  we  think  our 
Work  would  be  incomplete,  without  giving  an  account  of  it.  This 
method  is,  indeed,  so  unlike  the  ordinary  modes  of  manufacturing 
carpets,  hearth-rugs  &c.  that  it  cannot,  properly  speaking,  be  con- 
sidered under  the  head  of  any  branch  of  weaving  at  all ;  it  will, 
however,  be  interestmg  to  both  weavers  and  manufacturers,  to  have 
a  full  explanation  of  it,  as  it  is  hkely  to  supersede  many  of  their 
present  processes. 

This  remarkable  invention  attracted  considerable  notice  at  the 
time  of  its  first  introduction,  in  1838 ;  and  several  machines  are 
now  in  operation,  upon  the  principle  of  it,  in  England  and  Belgium. 
We  have  made  the  annexed  drawings  and  description  from  a 
machine,  while  at  work  in  the  latter  country  ;  and  hope  that  our 
efforts  may  prove  beneficial  to  many  of  our  friends. 

Fig.  123,  represents  a  perspective  view  of  a  machine  suitable  for 
carrying  out  the  first  part  of  the  invention,  a  a,  is  a  quadrangular 
frame  having  the  guides  b,  h,  affixed  by  screAvs  or  other  suitable 
means,  allowing  of  their  being  readily  removed  to  take  out  the  work. 

Fiff.  123. 


250  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

The  frame  a,  a,  is  supported  by  the  legs  or  frame  c,  c.  On  the 
under  side  of  each  of  the  guides  is  a  groove  or  space  between  the 
guide  and  the  frame  a,  the  object  of  which  will  be  hereafter  fully 
explained,  d,  d,  is  a  roller  or  beam  (see  Figs.  123  and  125)  on 
which  is  warped  a  number  of  yarns  or  threads  of  worsted,  wool, 
cotton,  silk,  or  other  fibrous  materials,  or  mixtures  thereof,  in  like 
manner  to  winding  or  beaming  a  warp  for  a  loom,  as  if  the  same 
were  to  be  woven  into  a  fabric,  in  the  ordinary  way  of  weaving 
vvdth  warp  and  weft,  and  the  warp  beam  or  roller  d,  d,  is  weighted 
and  has  friction  cords  or  bands,  as  is  practised  in  looms  for  weaving, 
and  as  is  shown  in  the  drawing.  The  ends  of  the  warp  threads 
are  made  fast  to  the  front  rail  of  the  frame  a,  in  hke  manner  to 
fastening  a  warp  to  the  cloth  roUer  of  a  loom.  The  workman  then 
proceeds  to  work  in  the  following  manner  ;  he  has  a  number  of 
strips  of  thin  metal,  such  as  copper,  zinc,  or  other  suitalile  mate- 
rial ;  the  strips  being  all  of  the  same  size  ;  and  are  to  be  in  width 
what  the  depth  of  the  desired  nap  is  to  be.  and  of  a  length  some- 
what gi-eater  than  the  width  of  the  fabric  to  be  produced  in  the  ma- 
chine ;  the  frame  a,  (see  Fig.  123)  and  guides  b,  b,  are  to  have  a  space 
between  them  equal  to  the  width  of  the  intended  fabric  to  be  pro- 
duced. The  workman  first  places  one  of  the  strips  of  metal  under 
the  warp,  and  draws  it  up  to  the  end,  and  parallel  with  the  front  rail 
of  the  frame  a,  the  two  ends  of  the  strip  being  placed  under  the  guides 
b,  b,  by  which  they  are  prevented  rising  up  ;  he  then  places  the 
next  strip  edgeways  on  the  upper  surface  of  the  warp,  and  depresses 
the  warp  evenly  between  the  first  and  second  strip,  and  he  springs 
or  bends  the  second  strip  in  such  a  manner  as  to  allow  of  the  two 
ends  thereof  entering  into  the  grooves  formed  between  the  guides  b. 
b,  and  the  sides  of  the  frame  a.  He  then  places  another  strip  under 
the  warp,  and  raises  the  same  up  evenly  between  the  second  and 
third  strips,  and  he  bends  the  strip  in  such  a  manner  as  to  cause 
the  two  ends  to  enter  the  grooves  formed  between  the  guides  and 
the  sides  of  the  frame  a,  and  then  straightens  the  strip  so  as  to  lay 
the  same  parallel  with  the  preceding  ones  ;  then  he  takes  a  fourth 
strip  and  places  it  on  the  upper  surface  of  the  warp,  and  depresses 
the  threads  thereof  evenly  between  the  third  and  fourth  strips,  and 
causes  the  ends  of  the  fourth  strip  to  enter  the  grooves  formed  be- 
tween the  guides  b,  b,  and  the  frame  a,  and  with  a  straight-edge  he 
presses  the  strips  up  evenl}'  from  time  to  time,  so  that  they  may 
each  be  kept  upright  on  their  edges  and  in  straight  lines  parallel  to 
each  other,  and  when  the  frame  a.  a,  is  full,  the  yarns  or  threads 
composing  the  warp  will  be  so  arranged  between  the  strips  of  metal 


CARPETS,     RUGS,    &C.  251 

or  other  suitable  material,  as  to  pass  first  over,  then  under,  each 
succeeding  strip,  as  is  shown  in  Fig.  124. 

Fig.  124. 

If 


The  warp  thus  arranged  should  have  a  smooth  surface  of  metal 
or  other  suitable  material  passed  over  and  pressed  on  the  upper  side 
in  order  to  lay  and  press  the  yarns  or  threads  down  evenly,  and 
also  to  cause  them  to  spread  out  in  such  manner  as  to  produce  a 
touching  of  the  fibres  throughout,  so  that  when  a  suitable  cement 
shall  be  placed  or  spread  tliereon  and  dried,  the  whole  will  become 
one  sheet  of  fabric  when  the  strips  are  removed  by  cutting,  as  will 
be  hereafter  more  fully  explained.  The  cementing  material  used 
by  the  im-entor  is  India-rubber  (caoutchouc:)  but  other  materials, 
such  as  shellac,  may  be  employed  instead.  One  or  more  coats  of 
India-rubber,  or  other  cement,  is  to  be  spread  over  the  surface  of  the 
warp,  arranged  and  prepared  as  above  explained,  and  permitted  to 
dry,  and  in  this  condition  the  frame  a,  a.  may  be  turned  over,  and 
then,  by  a  sharp  knife  or  other  suitable  cutting  instrument,  the 
strips  may  be  successively  removed  by  cutting  the  yarn  from  side  to 
side  of  the  fabric,  in  like  manner  to  cutting  the  warp  when  weav- 
ing velvet,  or  Wilton  carpet ;  but  it  is  not  necessary  to  have  the 
strips  grooved,  as  is  the  case  with  the  wires  used  in  making  velvet, 
but  they  may  be  grooved,  if  it  is  desired  to  be  very  correct  in  the 
cutting.  The  fabric  thus  prepared  is  then  suitable  to  be  applied  to 
woven  textures  or  other  surfaces,  by  cementing  it  thereto,  but  it  is 
preferable  that  the  back  of  the  woven  fabric  should  be  cemented  on 
to  the  v.  arp,  immediately  on  the  warp  or  pile  having  been  heated 
with  the  cement,  and  before  cutting  out  the  strips  of  metal  (as 
shown  in  Figs.  123  and  124)  or  other  suitable  material  employed, 
and  this  may  be  performed  by  having  first  spread  a  layer  of  the 
cement  on  the  warp,  and  another  on  to  the  fabric  which  is  to  con- 
stitute the  back,  and  then  bring  the  two  cemented  surfaces  together 
and  press  them  well ;  and  if  the  surfaces  be  extensive  the  pressure 
may  be  conveniently  performed  by  means  of  a  smooth  iron  roller 
passed  over  the  upper  surface,  such  roller  being  made  hollow,  may- 
be heated  with  an  iron  heater.  In  case  it  be  required  to  make  car- 
pets, or  rugs,  or  other  fabrics,  with  patterns,  then  it  will  be  desirable 
to  print  the  yarns  or  threads  in  the  warp,  but  each  pattern  in  the 
printing  must  be  so  lengthened  as  to  allow  of  the  bending  up  of  the 


252 


THE    ART    OP    WEAVING. 


yarn,  and  the  colours  used  must  well  penetrate  the  warp  (see  Why- 
tock's  and  Henshall's  methods.)  Fig.  125 


Fis.  125 


Fig.  126. 


Fig.  127. 


shows  another  arrangement  of  machinery  for  performing  a  like 
operation  of  bending  lengths  of  threads  or  yarns  to  that  above 
described ;  the  only  difference  being  that  the  frame  a,  and  guides  b, 
are  formed  into  a  cylinder,  and  this  machine  requires  that  the  fabric 
when  produced  should  be  unwound  before  the  cutting  out  of  the 


CARPETS,    RUGS,    &C.  253 

strips :  in  other  respects  the  description  above  given,  aided  by  the 
drawings,  will  be  sufficient,  the  same  letters  indicating  similar  parts 
in  this  machine  as  were  used  in  Fig.  123.  And  it  will  be  seen 
that  the  cyhnder  a,  a,  has  an  axis  with  suitable  bearings  at  each 
end,  in  order  that  it  may  be  turned  round  by  the  workman  as  he 
proceeds  with  his  work.  Another  means  of  performing  this  opera- 
tion of  bending  a  number  of  threads  or  yarns  (in  such  manner  that 
each  portion  of  thread  or  yarn  when  cut  shall  be  cemented  at  a 
point  or  part  intermediate  of  its  length,  and  the  two  ends  thereof 
rise  to  the  surface  and  form  the  warp  of  the  fabric,)  may  be  em- 
ployed in  the  following  manner ;  in  place  of  warping  the  threads 
or  yarns  on  a  roller  or  beam,  as  above  explained,  and  then  bending 
the  warp  over  and  under  a  series  of  thin  strips  of  metal,  as  in  Figs. 
123  and  124,  the  strips  may  have  thread  or  yarn  wound  spirally 
around  them,  as  is  shown  at  Fig.  126,  and  then  a  number  of  such 
covered  strips  are  to  be  packed  side  by  side  in  a  frame  a,  a,  and  the 
yarns  or  threads  cemented  together  and  to  a  suitable  fabric,  and 
the  strips  cut  there-from  as  above  explained.  We  have  stated  that 
the  looped  up  threads  or  yarns  were  to  be  cemented  to  a  cloth, 
which  would  serve  as  a  back,  yet  under  some  circumstances  it  will 
be  preferable  not  to  perform  that  operation,  such  as  in  making  a 
suitable  napped  fabric  for  the  covering  of  hats  and  bonnets,  in 
which  case  the  napped  fabric  being  made,  as  above  explained,  in 
place  of  cementing  it  to  any  fabric,  it  is  to  be  cemented  dkectly  on 
to  the  hat  or  bonnet. 

We  will  now  proceed  to  describe  the  second  part  of  the  invention, 
which  relates  to  another  mode  of  manufacturmg  carpets,  rugs,  and 
other  napped  fabrics,  which  differs  from  that  above  described,  but 
is  capable  of  being  so  worked  as  to  produce  very  ornamental  sur- 
faces and  may  be  made  to  resemble  tapestry  and  highly  finished 
paintings,  depending  on  the  taste  of  the  j)erson  who  works  the 
pattern  as  will  be  hereafter  explained. 

Fig.  127  represents  a  frame  or  apparatus  suitable  for  working  the 
pattern  when  performing  the  second  part  of  the  invention.  AAA 
A  A  are  quadrangular  frames  affixed  on  the  board  B  B.  Over 
each  of  the  end  frames  A,  is  evenly  stretched  canvas,  such  as  is 
used  for  worsted  work,  in  such  manner  that  the  canvas  at  each 
end  shall  be  stretched  to  coincide  one  with  the  other  as  nearly  as 
possible  can  be  done.  The  person  who  works  the  pattern  is  to  pro- 
ceed as  follows : — 

By  means  of  a  needle  he  draws  the  worsted,  w^ool,  or  other  yarn 
or  thread  through  a  hole  or  mesh  in  the  canvas  at  one  end,  and 


254  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

through  a  corresponding'  hole  in  the  canvas  in  the  other  frame 
A,  commencing  the  work  at  the  lower  corner  hole,  and  working 
successively  through  each  hole  of  the  lower  rows  of  the  surfaces  of 
canvas  ;  then  the  next  above,  (taking  care  that  the  thread  or  yarn 
between  the  frames  A  Ue  even  and  smooth,  and  are  drawn  equally 
tight)  and  the  work  is  to  be  continued  till  the  yarn  has  been  passed 
through  every  hole,  when  there  would  be  a  long  quadrangular  mass 
of  yarn  or  thread,  which  is  to  be  encompassed  with  a  box  or  case  C, 
(see  Fig.  128.)  open  at  both  ends  ;  and  having  so  encompassed  and 
secured  the  mass  of  yarn  or  thread,  the  same  ma}"  be  cut  awa)'- 
from  the  canvas  or  fabric,  and  a  piston  or  rammer  inserted  into  the 
box  or  case  C,  which,  fitting  closely  on  all  sides,  will,  when  desired, 
force  out  portions  or  lengths  of  the  yarn,  in  order  that  the  same  may 
be  cut  off  after  it  has  been  combined  by  cementing  it  into  a  fabric, 
as  will  be  hereafter  more  fully  described ;  and  the  ends  of  the  fibres 
in  the  box  C,  against  which  the  ram  is  to  press,  should  be  ce- 
mented to  the  ram  and  permitted  to  dry,  before  commencing  to  force 
out  the  mass  of  yarn  by  the  ram. 

Above  we  have  given  our  readers  an  account  of  the  mode  of  work- 
ing wdthout  reference  to  the  pattern  ;  and  we  shall  now  proceed  to 
show  how  a  design  or  pattern  may  be  worked  in  the  frame,  and  sub- 
sequently transferred  and  subdivided  into  a  multitude  of  surfaces,  or 
portions  of  surfaces.  We  would  first  remark,  however,  that  the  can- 
vas, or  fabric  used  on  the  frames  A  should  be  fine  or  coarse,  ac- 
cording to  the  degree  of  fineness  of  the  yarn  or  thread  used,  whether 
of  worsted,  wool,  cotton,  silk,  or  other  fibrous  materials  or  mixtures 
thereof,  and  the  pattern  or  design  is  to  be  worked  or  executed  with 
the  needle,  b)^  counting  the  meshes,  and  drawing  through  colours 
according  to  the  order  of  the  pattern  set  before  the  person  perform- 
ing this  part  of  the  work,  drawing  the  thread  or  yarn  through  each 
of  the  frames,  as  has  been  above  explained:  or  it  maA^,  in  some  pat- 
terns, be  performed  by  marking  the  canvas.  Thus,  supposing  that 
the  pattern  to  be  produced  was  a  red  jack-ass  on  a  white  groimd, 
and  that  the  shape  of  the  ass  was  marked  on  the  canvas,  the  per- 
son working  would  continue  to  draw  white  yarn  or  thread  through 
the  canvas  so  long  as  the  lower  part  of  the  frame  was  to  receive 
the  ground,  then  with  white  and  then  with  red.  according  as  the 
portions  of  the  row  of  meshes  or  holes,  of  the  canvas  across  from 
side  to  side  was  ground  or  pattern,  and  so  on  till  all  the  holes  were 
worked  through  and  the  said  quadruped  completed.  Having  per- 
formed this  operation,  he  would  surround  the  warp  of  yarn  or  thread 
with  the  box  or  case  C,  as  above  explained,  the  boxes  or  cases  C, 


CARPETS,    RUGS,    &C.  255 

being  formed  in  parts  capable  of  being  put  together  readily,  by 
screws  or  otherwise.  We  have  chosen  this  simple  pattern  in  order 
to  give  a  clear  description  of  this  part  of  the  mode  of  working  as 
practised  by  the  ingenious  inventor,  but  from  the  foregoing  descrip- 
tion a  person  will  readily  be  able  to  perform  other  patterns,  of  varied 
degrees  of  intricacy,  depending  on  the  taste  of  the  design,  which 
should  be  drawn  on  paper  such  as  is  now  used  in  working  worsted 
work  on  canvas ;  that  is,  by  having  the  colours  in  small  equal- 
sized  squares,  as  is  well  understood,  and  consequently  forms  no  part 
of  the  present  contrivance,  and  then,  by  counting  the  meshes  or 
interstices  of  the  fabric,  draw  in  threads  of  the  colour  required,  and 
as  may  be  marked  in  the  design  paper.  Or  in  some  cases  the  pat- 
tern may  be  marked  on  the  canvas  or  fabric,  on  the  frame 
A  A  A  A  A  (see  Fig.  127.)  When  the  frames  are  full  a  case  C  is 
applied,  just  sufficient  to  embrace  the  mass  of  threads  or  yarns,  and 
retain  the  same  closely  together  in  such  manner,  that  in  forcing  the 
mass  of  threads  or  yarns  through  the  case  in  which  they  are  in- 
cluded, they  will  be  prevented  getting  out  of  the  correct  position. 
Hence  each  successive  portion  or  slice  cut  off  from  the  end  of  the 
case,  will  be  a  repetition  of  the  same  pattern,  which  being  combined 
together  will  produce  a  carpet,  or  rug,  or  other  napped  fabric,  de- 
pending on  the  natuie  of  the  fibrous  materials  employed,  and  the 
mode  of  getting  up  the  same. 

There  are  other  methods  by  which  masses  of  yarns  or  fibres  may 
be  obtained  within  cases  or  boxes  C,  and  worked  therefrom  accord- 
ing to  the  invention.  We  will  now  explain  two  other  modes, 
slightly  differing  from  each  other,  and  from  the  one  above  explained  ; 
but  by  both  the  object  of  this  part  of  the  invention  may  be  obtained, 
whereby  a  mass  of  yarns,  or  threads,  or  such  lilce  combination  of 
fibres  may  be  produced  in  masses,  in  suitable  cases  or  boxes,  and 
allow  of  a  succession  of  cuts  or  slices  being  successively  taken  there- 
from, in  order  to  produce  successive  surfaces,  or  portions  of  surfaces, 
which  being  cemented  before  cutting,  will  form  the  nap  of  fabrics. 

Fig.  128  represents  a  perspective  view  of  an  apparatus  or  ma- 
chine wherein  a  number  of  warp  rollers  «,  a,  a,  each  having  wound 
thereon  threads  or  yarns  of  any  suitable  fibre,  according  to  the  fabric 
desired  to  be  produced,  the  warp  rollers  being  equally  weighted. 

'  Each  layer  or  warp  of  yarns  is  made  fast  to  a  rod,  which  keeps 
the  layers  of  thread  separate  (as  shown  in  the  Fig.,)  and  correctly 
placed,  one  warp  above  the  other ;  and  having  so  obtained  a  mass 
of  threads  or  yarns,  the  same  is  to  be  enclosed  in  a  suitable  case  or 
box  C,  as  above  described.     Such  boxes  or  cases  C,  may  be  of  any 


256 


THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 


convenient  length,  say  twelve  inches,  which  is  a  convenient  length, 
and  they  may  be  successively  cut  from  the  body  of  warps,  taking 
care  that  before  cutting  off  one  box  or  case,  or  more,  securely  en- 
compass the  body  of  yarns  or  threads,  in  order  to  hold  them  se- 
curely, the  cut  or  slice  being  made  between  the  cases  or  boxes  by  a 
sharp  thin  knife,  or  such  suitable  razor-like  instrument.  Each  of 
these  boxes  or  cases  C,  will  then  be  worked  off  by  having  suitable 
pistons  placed,  and  forced  through  them,  as  above  explained,  or  in 
cases  where  the  length  of  nap  will  allow  of  it,  the  cases  or  boxes  C, 
may  be  made  of  parts,  each  only  as  deep  as  the  intended  nap. 
Then,  in  order  to  cut  off  each  successive  layer  or  shce.  India-rubber 
or  other  suitable  cement  should  be  evenly  spread  over  the  external 
ends  of  the  body  of  warps.  In  order  to  cement  all  the  ends  together, 
a  shce,  and  case  or  box  C,  may  be  cut  off,  starting  with  several 
such  narrow  cases,  and  applying  one  around  the  yarn  as  one  is  cut 
off,  in  order  to  retain  the  nap  secure,  the  cases  C  being  hinged  or 
otherwise. 

Fig.  129  shows  another  mode  of  obtaining  a  body  of  threads  or 


CARPETS,    RUGS,    &.C. 


257 


yarns  into  a  box  or  case,  in  order  to  allow  of  a  succession  of  slices 
or  surfaces  being  cut  off  to  form  napped  fabrics.  It  consists  in 
what  may  be  called  a  folding  machine,  whereby  a  warp  of  yarns 
or  threads,  either  all  of  one  colour,  or  of  intermixed  colours,  accord- 
rig  to  the  will  of  the  party,  and  depending  on  the  description  of 
napped  fabrics  it  is  desired  to  produce. 


a,  is  a  warp  roller,  on  to  which  the  threads  or  yarns  are  beamed. 
6,  6,  is  a  table  ;  and  c,  part  of  a  box  or  case  in  which  it  is  desired  to 
pack  a  quantity  of  threads  or  yarns,  and  C,  is  the  top  or  cover  of 
the  case.  The  Avarp  is  made  fast  to  a  rod,  which  is  at  one  end  of 
the  case  C  C  ;  and  is  then  drawn  evenly  to  the  opposite  end  of  a 
case,  and  a  rod  or  other  suitable  intruraent  is  laid  across  the  top  of 
the  warp  ;  the  warp  is  then  taken  evenly  back  to  the  other  end  of 
the  case  C  C,  and  another  rod  laid  on,  and  the  Avarp  again  brought 
to  the  other  end  of  the  case  and  another  rod  laid  on  till  the  warp 
is  folded,  and  the  case  is  full,  the  rods  being  of  such  a  length  as  to 
protrude  beyond  the  end  of  the  case  C  C,  and  in  order  to  pack  the 
whole  closely,  the  rods  are  kept  pressed  down  by  the  weighted  in- 
struments D,  at  each  end  of  the  box  or  case  C  C,  and  when  a  number 
of  layers  of  the  warp  have  been  folded,  the  lower  rods  may  be  succes- 
sively removed,  in  order  to  allow  the  layers  to  go  more  closely  together, 
and  by  this  means  a  body  of  threads  will  be  packed  in  a  case  or 
box,  from  which  may  be  cut  a  succession  of  slices,  each  slice  forming 
the  napped  surface,  or  part  of  the  napped  surface  of  a  fabric.     We 

33 


258  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

have  thus  far  spoken  of  the  frames  or  cases  into  which  the  threads 
or  yarns  are  packed  as  being  rectangular,  but  we  would  remark, 
that  they  may  be  of  other  forms,  depending  on  circumstances.  By 
which  arrangement,  where  an  extensive  surface  is  desired  to  be 
napped,  the  cases  or  boxes  may  be  made  into  such  forms  as  will, 
when  combined  together,  produce  the  shapes  required,  and  place 
the  patterns,  or  parts  of  the  pattern,  in  the  proper  place,  which  ar- 
rangement will  allow  of  the  patterns  or  ornamental  designs  (which 
require  the  most  time  in  packing)  being  worked  into  separate  boxes 
or  cases,  and  the  threads  or  yarns  which  are  to  form  ihe  ground  may 
be  in  separate  boxes  or  cases  C. 

"Whatever  be  the  course  pursued  in  obtaining  bodies  of  yarns  or 
threads  in  boxes  or  cases,  as  above  explained,  the  fibres  at  the  end 
of  which  may  protude,  should  be  carefully  shaved  or  cut  off  evenly, 
and  India  rubber,  or  other  suitable  cement,  is  to  be  laid  on  to  the 
surface  of  fibres  and  permitted  to  dry  sufficiently  before  the  ram  or 
piston  is  caused  to  force  a  quantity  equal  to  the  length  of  the  de- 
sired nap  from  the  case  C.  When  sufficiently  dry,  and  on  exami- 
nation the  cement  appears  to  be  complete  over  the  whole  surface, 
the  piston  or  ram  is  to  force  out  of  the  case  or  box  C,  a  length 
equal  to  the  length  of  the  nap ;  when  that  cjuantity  is  to  be  cut  off 
with  a  sharp  knife,  or  other  suitable  instrument,  and  the  ends  of 
the  yarn  which  is  in  the  case  or  box,  are  to  be  again  coated  with 
cement,  and  so  on  till  the  whole  is  cut  up  into  shces,  which  may  be 
afterwards  applied,  by  cement,  to  canvas  or  other  fabrics,  or  to 
other  surfaces,  or  in  place  of  cutting  when  the  fibres  have  been 
only  combined  with  cement,  they  may  be  further  combined  by 
cementing  on  canvass  or  other  fabrics  before  cutting  ;  and  for  hats 
and  such  hke  fabrics,  where  it  is  desired  to  have  a  laid  nap,  then 
this  may  be  accomplished  by  having  the  end  of  the  boxes  or  cases 
from  which  the  cut  is  made,  on  a  bevel,  and  the  face  of  the  ram 
also  of  a  bevel.  Hence  each  shce  or  surface  will  be  protruded  and 
cut  on  a  bevel  or  angular  direction,  and  when  cemented  together 
will  produce  a  laid  nap  surface  or  fabric. 

Having  now  given  to  the  reader  a  practical  description  of  this 
novel  method  of  manufacturing  carpets,  rugs,  and  other  similar  fab- 
rics, we  would,  before  dismissing  the  subject,  further  remark,  that 
we  see  nothing  to  prevent  the  application  of  steam  or  water  power, 
instead  of  manual  labour,  in  performing  all  the  operations  required. 
By  this  means,  60  strips  of  metal,  to  raise  the  nap  or  pile,  might 
easily  be  inserted  per  minute  ;  at  the  distance  of  about  2  yards 
from  the  scene  of  action,  where  the  inserting  process  was  going  on, 


CHENILLE.  259 

a  cementing  or  soldering  apparatus  could  be  at  work  simultaneously  ; 
and  at  the  distance  of  other  two  yards  from  this,  another  contriv- 
ance might  be  actively  engaged  in  cutting  out  the  strips  as  fast  as 
they  advanced  with  the  cemented  fabric  ;  which  would  here  be 
quite  dry.  The  distance  of  this  point  from  the  last  inserted  strip 
would,  of  course,  be  about  4  yards ;  and,  allowing  20  strips  to  the 
inch  of  the  piled  or  napped  fabric,  only  28S0  strips  would  be  re- 
quired for  the  4  yards,  from  beginning  to  the  end  thereof.  We  think 
that  from  300  to  305,  or  306,  yards  of  perfect  nap  or  pile  might  be 
produced  per  day,  from  one  machine  of  this  description,  working  10 
horns,  and  with  the  supeiintendence  of  a  mere  child.  Should  any 
of  the  enterprizing  individuals,  Avho  may  chance  to  embark  in  such 
an  undertaking,  meet  with  any  difficulties,  they  nmst  not  be  dis- 
couraged ;  for  every  obstacle  must  vanish,  or  at  least  give  way, 
when  opposed  by  the  combined  powers  of  body  and  mind. 


CHENILLE. 

The  ingenious  Alexander  Buchannan,  of  Paisley,  Scotland,  in- 
vented this  beautiful  fabric,  about  the  year  1820.*  It  derives  its 
beauty  and  lustre  from  the  peculiar  mode  of  preparing  the  weft, 
and  the  manner  in  which  the  colours  are  afterwards  arranged  ;  in 
so  much,  that  a  pattern  which  would  require  a  large  harness,  as  an 
imitation  shawl,  can  be  woven  without  any  other  apparatus  than  a 
ground  mounting  and  two  treadles. 

The  weft,  which  is  called  chenille,  is  prepared  as  follows  : — A 
Turkey  gauze  warp,  of  net  yarn,  is  woven  in  a  1200  reed,  with  a 
twist  or  dentful  in  every  fifth  interval,  the  weft  being  either  silk,  cot- 
ton, or  worsted,  according  to  the  kind  of  shawls  to  be  manufactured. 
When  this  fal)ric  comes  from  the  loom,  it  is  cut  up  (by  a  suitable 
machine)  in  the  centre  between  the  dentfuls  of  warp  ;  and  after 
receiving  a  little  twist  to  throw  the  ends  of  the  cut  weft  into  a  spiral 

*  About  this  period,  Mr.  Buchanan  exhibited  a  specimen  of  his  newly  in- 
vented fabric,  to  his  worlhy  fellow-townsman,  Robert  Farquharson,  Esq.,  then 
provost  of  Paisley  ;  which  circumstance  is  thus  alluded  to  by  a  local  poet : — 

"  Philanthropic  Rab, 
Sae  smooth  o'  heart,  though  rough  o'  gab, 
Soon  as  he  saw  the  curious  wab, 

He  gaz'd  wi'  wonner, 
And  said,  it  was  a  genuine  job, 

Upon  his  honour." 


260  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

direction,  it  is  ready  for  the  weaver.  The  warp  of  the  shawl  is 
hkewise  a  Turkey  gauze,  the  same  as  that  which  is  the  foundation 
of  the  weft,  so  that  when  a  sufficient  quantity  of  chenille  has  been 
produced  from  a  warp,  it  is  customary  to  make  shawls  of  the  re- 
mainder, (see  Chenille  paper,  page  511.) 

In  weaving  these  shawls,  one  pick  of  the  chenille  is  thrown  in, 
and  then  three  of  the  common  weft,  whether  silk,  cotton,  or  worsted, 
and  the  fibres  of  the  chenille,  projecting  in  all  directions,  give  the 
fabric  tlie  appearance  of  a  fine  glossy  shag,  showing  the  pattern, 
when  figured,  alike  on  both  sides. 

When  the  shawls  are  to  be  of  one  uniform  colour,  only  one  kind 
of  weft  is  necessary  ;  but  when  they  are  to  be  figured,  different 
colours  are  employed,  and  these  are  woven  in  spaces  adapted  to  the 
difierent  parts  of  the  design  ;  the  pattern  is  painted  on  design  paper, 
as  for  an  imitation  harness  ;  each  space  of  the  design,  or  that  which 
con-esponds  to  a  ground  lash  with  its  different  colours,  is  again 
painted  on  a  separate  slip  of  design  paper,  but  two  spaces  are  here 
coloured,  to  make  them  better  seen  by  the  weaver,  leaving  a  blank 
space  on  each  side  :  these  slips  are  all  numbered,  to  prevent  con- 
fusion. 

Supposing  a  web  of  trimmings  were  to  be  woven,  with  eight  re- 
peats in  the  breadth  of  a  yard,  for  the  first  pick  of  chenille,  we 
take  the  slip  of  paper  Xo.  1 :  by  reading  it.  as  for  a  sample,  there  are 
2  spaces  j^ellow,  1  white,  4  red,  2  yellow,  1  black,  2  white,  &c.,  the 
weaver  works  a  space  of  each  of  these  colours  on  the  warp,  agree- 
ablv  to  its  respective  size  on  the  shp  of  design  paper,  which,  when 
finished,  must  be  exactly  the  breadth  of  the  trimming.  For 
a  guide  to  tlie  weaver,  the  slip  of  paper  passes  through  the 
reed,  and  is  fastened  at  each  end  to  a  piece  of  tape,  by  a  bit  of 
rosin,  the  one  behind  the  mounting  hanging  over  the  warp  roller 
and  kept  tisrht  by  a  small  weight,  and  the  other  is  fastened  at  the 
face  of  the  clotli.  The  weaver  then  has  only  to  change  his  shut- 
tles, by  shifting  the  boxes  of  the  lay  at  the  end  of  each  coloured 
space,  as  pointed  out  by  the  design.  The  slip  marked  Xo.  2  is  nest 
put  in  the  reed  for  the  second  pick,  and  the  colours  woven  in  the 
same  manner,  but  in  reverse  order  to  the  first,  as  the  one  is  thrown 
in  from  the  right  hand  and  the  other  from  the  left,  and  so  on  tiU 
the  weft  for  the  whole  pattern  is  finished. 

The  weft  is  cut  in  lengths  of  eight  yards,  being  the  quantity  usu- 
ally wound  on  one  bobbin  or  quill,  and  this  will  make  eight  picks  in  a 
yard-wide  web  ;  and  the  bobbins  are  taken  in  succession,  agree- 
ably to  the  numbers  of  the  slip  of  design  paper.     The  more  tightly 


CHENILLE.  261 

the  chenille  is  twisted,  the  thicker  and  closer  the  pile  becomes. 
This  species  of  fabric  is  likewise  well  adapted  to  the  rug  and  carpet 
manufacture. 

It  appears  to  us,  that  no  person  who  is  unacquainted  with  weav- 
ing can  have  any  idea  of  the  variety  and  ingenuity  of  its  processes  ; 
and  even  some  individuals  who  consider  themselves  masters  of  the 
art,  know,  comparatively,  very  little  about  it.  Notwithstanding 
the  apparent  perfection  of  the  methods  employed  in  producing 
some  of  the  fancy  textures  which  we  have  already  described,  yet, 
we  have  to  record  improvements  of  immense  importance  upon 
several  of  them. 

The  manufacture  which  we  have  just  been  considering  (chenille) 
has  recently  been  adapted  to  carpets,  rugs,  &c.,  with  great  success, 
by  Messrs.  Templeton  and  Quiglay,  of  Paisley,  who  obtained  a 
patent,  in  England,  dated  2.5th  July,  1839,  for  improvements,  which 
we  shall  now  proceed  to  explain. 

The  invention  consists  in  weaving  fabrics  of  silk,  cotton,  woollen, 
linen,  or  other  fibrous  materials,  which  are  to  be  cut  into  strips,  and 
used  as  weft,  somewhat  in  the  manner  of  chenille  weft,  (but  with 
this  difference,  that  the  two  edges  of  the  strip  shall  inchne  more 
towards  each  other,)  and  then  weaving  such  strips  on  a  ground,  so 
that  all  the  fur  or  cut  edges  of  the  strips  may  be  brought  to  one  side 
of  the  fabric,  while  the  other  side  is  plain  ;  and  is  also  applicable  to 
the  manufacture  of  carpets,  rugs,  shawls,  mats,  covers  of  stools, 
chairs,  or  tables,  tapestry,  or  any  cloth  or  fabric  requiring  to  be 
raised,  so  as  to  have  the  appearance  of  velvet,  fur,  or  plush. 

A  texture  or  fabric  of  silk,  cotton,  woollen,  hnen,  or  of  a  mixture 
of  two  or  more  of  these  materials,  is  first  woven  ;  having  the  warp 
threads  spaced  or  set  in  the  reed  at  certain  equal  distances  from 
each  other,  in  the  following  manner : — One,  two,  or  more  dents  of 
the  reed  are  filled  with  the  warp  threads,  and  then  a  space  of  the 
reed,  {equal  to  double  the  length  of  the  fur  required,)  is  left  empty ; 
then  one,  two,  or  more  dents  of  the  reed  are  again  filled  with  warp 
threads,  and  another  space  is  left  empty,  as  above  described  (see 
Fig.  130  ;)  and  this  is  repeated  until  the  required  number  of  strips 
is  completed.  The  warp  being  thus  spaced  and  arranged  in  the 
loom,  the  weft  is  thrown  in,  so  as  to  form  either  a  plain  or  coloured 
surface,  and  the  warp  acts  on  the  weft  in  the  manner  of  gauze  or 
cross-weaving  (see  Figs.  49,  50  and  53 :)  that  is,  the  warp  threads, 
instead  of  being  left  parallel,  as  in  common  weaving,  are  crossed 
over  each  other  by  each  tread  on  the  treadles ;  and  the  weft,  when 
thrown  in,  intersects  the  warp,  and  its  edges  acquire  a  tendency  to 


262 


THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 


come  together,  in  consequence  of  the  cross-weavhig  wliich  the 
warp  has  received.  On  this  web  being  cut  into  strips,  through  the 
vacant  spaces  already  described,  the  weft,  or  lateral  fibres  of  both 
sides  of  each  strip,  are  all  thrown  up  on  one  side,  and  brought  close 
together.  The  process  is  somewhat  similar  to  that  followed  in 
making  chenille  weft,  but  with  this  difierence,  that  the  fur  or  pile, 
(that  is,  the  lateral  fibres  of  both  sides  of  each  strip,)  when  cut,  are 
all  brought  upon  one  side,  and  into  close  contact,  instead  of  project- 
ing from  all  sides  of  the  warp  or  body  thread,  as  in  the  case  of  che- 
nille weft. 


Fig.  130, 


At  Figs.  130  and  131,  are  represented  two  modes  of  cross-weav- 
ing, exhibiting  the  crossings  of  the  warp,  and  intersections  of  tlie 
weft.  In  Fig.  130,  are  two  dents-full  of  warp  A  A  of  Turkey  gauze, 
(B  B  is  a  repetition  of  the  same,)  of  three  threads  in  the  dent ;  those 
two  dents-full  being  separated  by  one  empty  dent  C  C,  or  otherwise. 
Three  picks  of  weft  or  fur  D  D  D  are  uncut,  and  six  picks  FEE 
cut  in  the  centre.  The  Fig.  exhibits  the  effect  which  the  crossinirs 
FF  of  the  warp  threads  have  upon  the  fur,  in  causing  both  sides 
of  the  weft,  when  cut,  to  incline  towards  each  other,  leaving  the 
warp  threads  to  serve  as  a  back-bone  or  back-band  to  the  lateral 
threads  or  fibres.  Fig.  131  exhibits  two  crossing  threads  G  G.  turn- 
ing round  a  cord  or  dead  thread  H  H,  which  is  accomplished  with 
"bead  lams"  (see  gauze  weaving.  Fig.  49.)  This  Fig.  also  ex- 
hibits, in  some  degree,  (by  the  turned  up  ends  of  the  cut  weft  threads 
1 1 1,)  the  appearance  of  the  fur  when  woven,  and  the  effect  the 
crossings  produce  after  it  has  been  cut. 

The  pattern  intended  to  be  produced  on  cloth,  manufactured 
partly  with  the  prepared  weft,  is  copied  on  design  paper,  formed 
with  as  many  horizontal  lines  as  there  are  to  he  picks  of  the  pre- 
pared weft  in  the  cloth  ;  after  these  lines  of  the  design  paper  are 
cut  asunder  into  st7'ips,  and  mmibered,  the  weaver  enters  them 
through  the  reed  of  tlie  loom,  (beginning  with  number  one,)  and 


TAPESTRY.  263 

commences  to  weave  the  colours  of  weft,  in  the  exact  order  in 
which  the  colours  are  fainted  on  these  pieces  of  paper. 

Tlie  ground-warp  of  the  cloth  is  prepared  with  an  extra  warp, 
which  may  be  termed  the  catcher-warp ;  a  shed  is  formed  by  both 
warps,  to  receive  the  ground-weft,  but  a  shed  of  the  catcher-warp 
only  for  the  prepared  weft ;  there  being  fewer  threads  of  the  catcher- 
warp  than  the  ground-warp,  less  resistance  is  offered  to  bringing  the 
fur  of  the  weft  to  the  surface.  In  some  cases,  a  portion  of  the  ground 
warp  is  used  for  fixing  the  fur-weft  upon  the  surface.  The  weaver 
having  thrown  in  a  pick  of  the  fur-weft,  sets  it  in  its  proper  place 
with  his  hand,  or  otherwise,  and  then,  with  a  brush,  comb,  or  othei' 
instrument,  raises  all  the  fibres  of  the  fur  from  the  catcher-warp,  or 
that  part  of  the  ground-warp  which  is  to  fix  it  on  the  fabric,  and 
drives  it  firmly  up  with  the  reed.  He  now  throws  in  as  ma*iy 
ground  or  binder  picks  as  are  deemed  necessary  to  form  the  ground 
of  the  cloth,  and  then  repeats  the  operation  of  weaving  in  the  fur, 
and  so  on,  alternately,  until  the  required  length  of  cloth  is  produced. 

TAPESTRY.  '' 

"  This  bright  art. 
Did  zealous  Europe  learn  of  Pagan  hands, 
While  she  assay'd  with  rage  of  holy  war 
To  desolate  their  fields :  but  old  the  skill : 
Long  were  the  Phrygians'  pict'ring  looms  renown'd; 
Tyre  also,  wealthy  seal  of  art,  excell'd. 
And  elder  Sidon,  in  th'  historic  web." — Dyer. 

As  we  have,  in  the  introductory  part  of  this  Work,  (to  which  the 
reader  is  referred,)  given  ample  evidence  of  the  skill  of  the  ancients 
in  the  manufacture  of  tapestry,  in  all  its  varieties,  it  only  remains 
to  give  some  account  of  its  progress  after  its  introduction  into 
Europe. 

The  first  manufactories  for  weaving  tapestry  which  acquired  re- 
putation in  Europe,  were  those  of  Flanders,  and  they  appear  to 
have  been  long  established  in  that  country,  principally  at  Arras, 
before  they  were  introduced  either  into  England  or  France  :  the 
precise  period  when  tapestry  was  first  manufactured  by  the  Belgians 
is  uncertain.  Guicceardini,  in  his  history  of  the  Netherlands,  jmb- 
lished  at  Antwerp  in  1582,  ascribes  to  them  the  invention  of  tapes- 
tries, without  mentioning  any  particular  date.  Whether  the  Bel- 
gians did  or  did  not  derive  their  knowledge  from  the  East,  to  them 
is  certainly  due  the  honour  of  having  restored  this  curious  art,  which 


264  THE    ART    OF    "WEAVING. 

gives  a  life  to  wools  and  silks,  scarcely,  if  at  all,  inferior  to  the 
paintings  of  the  best  masters.  The  weaving  of  tapestry  was  first 
introduced  into  England  in  the  time  of  Henry  VIII,  by  William 
Sheldon,  but  it  was  not  until  the  reign  of  James  I,  that  it  acquired 
any  particular  reputation.  This  monarch  greatly  patronized  the 
art,  and  gave  the  sum  of  two  thousand  six  hundred  and  seventy- 
six  pounds  sterling  towards  the  advancement  of  a  manufactory, 
which  was  established  by  Sir  Francis  Crane,  at  Mortlake  in  Sur- 
rey. The  patterns  first  used  for  making  these  fabrics  in  England, 
were  obtained  from  pieces  which  had  already  l)een  worked  by 
foreign  artists.*  There  is  an  extract  in  Rymer's  '•  Fcedra,"  an  ac- 
knowledgement from  Charles  I,  that  he  owed  Sir  Francis  Crane 
the  sum  of  six  thousand  pounds  Sterling  for  tapestries,  and  that  he 
grants  him  the  annual  sum  of  two  thousand  pounds,  for  ten  years, 
to  enable  him  to  support  his  establishment. 

To  France,  however,  we  are  indebted  for  the  great  perfection  to 
which  this  costly  art  has  been  brought  in  Europe.  Henry  IV,  first 
established  a  tapestry  manufactory  in  Paris,  about  the  year  1606, 
which  was  conducted  by  several  clever  artists,  whom  he  had  invited 
from  Flanders  :  but  this,  like  many  similar  institutions  founded  by 
that  monarch,  was  greatly  neglected  at  his  death,  and  would  pro- 
bably have  been  entirely  so,  had  not  Colbert  the  minister  of  Louis 
XIV,  with  a  view  of  providing  the  costly  and  magnificent  furni- 
ture for  Versailles  and  the  Tuilleries,  again  remodeled  it  upon  a 
more  secure  foundation,  and  from  that  period  the  royal  manufac- 
tory of  the  "  Hotel  des  Gobelins"  dates  its  origin. 

As  early  as  the  fourteenth  century,  dyers  of  wool  were  settled  in 
the  Faubourg  St.  Marcel  (Q^uartier  St.  Marcel)  at  Paris,  on  the 
banks  of  the  Bievre,  the  waters  of  which  stream  were  considered  as 
favourable  to  the  process  of  dyeing.  One  of  these  named  Jean 
Gobelin  amassed  considerable  Avealth,  which  his  descendants  in- 
creased, and  at  length  renouncing  the  business  of  dyers,  filled  va- 
rious offices  of  state. 

The  Gobelin  family  were  succeeded  by  Messrs.  Canaye,  who 
however  did  not  confine  their  attention  to  the  dyeing  of  wool,  but 
under  the  patronage  of  Henry  IV,  commenced  the  working  of 
tapestry,  which  until  that  period  had  been  confined  to  the  low  coun- 
tries. To  these  succeeded,  in  1655,  a  Dutchman,  named  Glucq, 
and  one  Jean  Lianson,  a  workman,  and  a  great  proficient  in  the 

*  The  designs  were  furnished  by  Thomas  Cleyn,  (a  Fleming,)  who  was  re- 
tained by  Sir  Francis  for  that  purpose. 


TAPESTRY.  265 

art.  Louis  XIV,  at  the  suggestion  of  his  minister,  Colbert,  after- 
wards purchased  the  buildings  and  gardens,  which  were  still  the 
property  of  the  Gobelin  family,  from  which  circumstance  the  tap- 
estry made  there,  has  ever  since  been  known  as  "  Gobelins  tapestry." 
Skilful  artists,  weavers  and  dyers,  were  brought  from  Flanders,  and 
attached  to  the  establishment ;  and  in  1667  the  celebrated  painter, 
Le  Brun,  was  appointed  chief  director  of  the  Gobelin  manufactory, 
to  which  he  communicated  that  beauty  and  grandeur,  his  admirable 
talents  were  so  well  calculated  to  produce.  He  here  painted  the 
famous  series  of  the  battles  of  Alexander,  which  were  afterwards 
worked  in  tapestry,  and  still  remain  the  finest  productions  of  the  Gobe- 
lins. The  four  seasons,  the  four  elements,  and  the  history  of  the 
principal  acts  of  Louis  XIV,  from  his  marriage  to  the  conquest  of 
Franche  Comte  were  also  from  the  design  of  this  master. 

At  the  period  of  the  French  Revolution  this  manufacture,  which 
had  until  then  been  prosecuted  with  various  decrees  of  success,  greatly 
declined,  but  under  the  government  of  Napoleon,  it  was  again  re- 
vived, and  has  since  been  successfully  carried  on,  although  not  to 
the  same  extent  as  formerly.  About  the  year  1801,  seventy-six 
persons  were  employed  at  the  Gobelins,  chiefly  in  the  preparation 
of  tapestry,  for  the  palace  of  St.  Cloud  ;  and  it  was  estimated  that 
150,000  francs  were  expended  yearly  on  these  productions.  The 
pieces  executed  are  generally  historical  subjects,  and  it  occasionally 
reauires  the  labour  of  from  two  to  six  years  to  finish  a  single  piece 
of  tapestry.  The  cost  of  some  of  these  pieces  is  enormous,  but  the 
price  of  the  different  articles  is  regulated  less  by  the  size  than  by  the 
beauty  and  difiiculty  of  the  work.* 

The  productions  of  this  manufactory,  which  is  entirely  supported 
by  the  government,  are  chiefly  destined  for  royal  palaces,  or  for 
presents  made  by  the  king  ;  but  some  few  pieces,  not  designed  as 
such,  are  allowed  to  be  sold. 

Connected  with  the  establishment  of  the  Gobelins,  is  one  for  the 
dyeing  of  wool,  under  the  direction  of  able  chemists,  where  an  in- 
finite number  of  shades,  mostly  unknown  in  trade^  are  dyed  for 
the  tapestry.  Wool  is  now  exclusively  used,  as  the  colours  are  more 
permanent.  There  is  also  a  drawing  school,  in  which  the  principles 
of  the  art  are  taught,  and  an  annual  course  of  lectures  is  delivered 
upon  chemistry  as  applicable  to  dyeing. 

The  Gobelins  tapestry  was  formerly  made  in  lengths  or  pieces, 
the  width  of  which  varied  from  four  to  eight  feet ;  and  when  one 

*  Some  pieces  are  valued  at  from  50,000  to  125,000  francs. 
34 


266  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

of  larger  dimensions  was  required,  several  of  these  were  sewn  or 
fine-drawn  together  with  such  care  that  no  seams  were  discernable. 
At  the  present  day,  however,  they  are  manufactured  of  much 
greater  widths,  so  that  they  seldom  require  to  be  joined  even  in  the 
largest  pieces. 

Two  methods  were  formerly  practised  in  the  manufacture  of  ta- 
pestr}'^,  knowm  as  those  of  the  •  basse  lisse"'  and  the  "  haute  lisse  ;" 
in  the  first  or  low  warp,  which  is  now  abandoned,  the  warp  threads 
were  arranged  horizontally  in  a  frame,  as  in  looms  for  common 
weaving,  the  painting  intended  to  be  copied  being  placed  beneath 
the  warp,  and  the  process  was  very  remarkable,  from  the  fact  of  the 
tapestry  being  worked  on  the  wrong  side,  so  that  the  artist  could 
not  see  the  face  of  the  design  he  was  weaving,  until  the  whole 
piece  was  finished  and  taken  out  of  the  frame.  In  the  top  headles 
or  high  warp,  which  is  still  used,  the  frame  is  fixed  perpendicularly 
before  the  artist,  he  also  works,  as  it  were,  bUndfolded,  seeing 
nothmg  of  the  effect  he  produces,  and  being  obhged  to  go  to  the 
other  side  of  the  loom  whenever  he  wishes  to  examine  the  piece  he 
is  executing.  The  following  brief  description  of  the  mode  at  pre- 
sent practised  at  the  Gobehns,  may  perhaps  convey  some  idea  of 
the  manufacture  to  those  who  have  not  visited  this  most  interesting 
establishment. 

The  frame  or  loom  in  which  the  tapestry  is  worked  is  of  the 
most  simple  construction,  consisting  merely  of  two  upright  posts 
with  suitable  cross-bars  at  top  and  bottom  ;  between  these  posts  two 
rollers  or  beams  are  placed,  with  ratchet  lieads  and  clicks  or  dogs  to 
hold  them,  suuilar  to  the  ratchet  R  and  dog  S  in  Fig.  10.5.  To 
these  rollers  or  beams,  are  connected  the  longitudinal  threads  or 
warp,  composed  of  twisted  wool,  wound  principally  upon  the  upper 
roller  which  may,  therefore,  be  denominated  the  warp  beam,  the 
other,  of  course,  being  the  cloth  beam.*  The  longitudinal  threads 
are  separated  from  one  another  by  suitable  contrivances,  made 
and  provided  for  that  purpose,  which  the  reader  will  easily  under- 

*  It  is  a  very  remarkable  coincidence,  thai  the  tapestrj-  frame  should  in 
all  respects  bear  so  close  a  resemblance  to  Ghelen's  machine  or  loom,  re- 
presented at  Fig.  A,  page  18  (see  Introduction) ;  and  it  goes  far  to  strengthen 
the  opinion  we  had  previously  formed  of  the  superiority  of  talent  possessed 
by  the  ancient;?  o%-er  the  moderns ;  by  tliis  assertion,  however,  we  are  not  to 
be  understood  as  insinuating  that  either  the  French  or  Belgians  copied  Mr. 
Ghelen's  frame,  as  we  are  credibly  informed  tliat  they  had  never  heard  of  it, 
but  only  struck  upon  the  same  idea,  by  chance,  after  much  reflection  upon 
the  subject. 


TAPESTRY.  267 

stand.  The  division  of  the  threads  is  efFected  in  order  to  admit  the 
cross  threads,  or  tufts  of  yarn,  which  are  to  form  the  picture. 

As  a  sort  of  guide  for  the  artist,  to  introduce  the  cross  threads  in 
their  proper  places,  he  traces  an  outHne  of  his  subject  on  the  threads 
of  his  warp  in  front,  which  are  sufficiently  open  to  enable  him  to 
see  the  painting  behind  it. 

For  working  the  tapestry,  three  instruments  are  required,  a 
broach,  a  comb,  and  an  iron  needle ;  the  first  is  formed  of  hard 
wood,  about  7f  inches  in  length,  and  f  of  an  inch  thick,  ending  in 
a  point,  with  a  small  handle,  round  which  the  wool  is  wound,  and 
serving  the  same  purpose  as  the  weaver's  shuttle.  The  comb  is 
also  of  wood,  eight  or  nine  inches  long,  and  an  inch  thick  at  the 
back,  whence  it  gradually  decreases  to  the  extremity  of  the  teeth, 
which  are  more  or  less  divided,  according  to  the  greater  or  less  de- 
gree of  fineness  of  the  intended  work:  it  is  used  to  press  close  the 
wool,  when  any  line  or  colour  does  not  set  well.  The  artist  places 
himself  behind  the  frame,  with  his  back  towards  the  picture  he  is 
about  to  copy ;  he  first  turns  and  looks  at  his  design,  then  taking 
a  broach  of  the  proper  colour,  he  inserts  it  among  the  threads  of  the 
warp,  which  he  brings  across  each  other  with  his  fingers,  in  pre- 
cisely the  same  way  that  weavers  read  their  patterns  on  the  simple 
or  simples  of  the  draw  loom  (see  Fig.  70  and  its  explanation  ;)  this 
he  repeats  every  time  it  is  necessary  to  change  his  colour.  Having 
placed  the  wool,  he  beats  or  pYesses  it  down  with  his  comb ;  and 
w^hen  he  has  thus  wrought  several  rows  he  passes  to  the  other  side, 
to  see  their  effect,  and  to  properly  adjust  them  with  his  needle, 
should  there  be  occasion.* 

An  entire  new  species  of  tissue  and  tapestry  has  been  invented 
or  discovered  by  M.  E.  Pavy,  and  secured  by  patent,  which  pro- 
mises to  become  an  article  of  great  commercial  value.  In  particu- 
lar, we  would  refer  to  some  coverings  of  chairs  and  tapestry  which 
have  been  especially  ordered  by  her  Majesty  Queen  Victoria,  for 
tiie  palace.  It  bears  so  close  a  resemblance  to  silk  of  the  best  kind, 
that  it  is  difficult  without  a  minute  examination  to  discover  the  dif- 
ference. The  material  of  which  it  is  composed  is  the  fibre  of  the 
banana,  aloe,  and  other   trees   and   plants  which  are  plentifully 


*  Should  the  workman  have  a  lively  sense  of  the  charms  of  nature,  with 
what  feelings  of  exquisite  delight  must  he  gaze  upon  the  form  of  a  beautiful 
female,  springing  up  in  the  most  glowing  colours  amid  the  threads,  spread 
like  a  cobweb,  before  his  enraptured  eyes,  and  all  that  too  through  his  own 
instrumentality  !    Tapestry  weavers  generally  die  of  a  broken  heart ! 


268  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

found  in  the  West  India  islands ;  and  by  very  accurate  experunents 
made  by  order  of  the  French  Government,  they  have  been  found 
on  an  average  to  exceed  the  strength  of  hemp  by  one-fourth.  The 
experiments  were  made  at  Toulon,  upon  cordage  which  had  been 
six  months  exposed.  We  understand  that  the  French  Minister  of 
Marine  has  introduced  ropes  and  cables  made  of  this  material  into 
the  Royal  Navy ;  and  as  it  is  so  much  superior  to  hemp,  we  see  no 
reason  why  it  might  not  be  advautageously  employed  iu  the  cord- 
age of  the  military  and  commercial  navy  of  this  country.  It 
might  also  be  used  with  profit  in  the  manufacture  of  pile  carpets 
and  hearth-rugs,  as  well  as  in  many  other  important  branches  of 
the  arts. 

CASHMERE  SHAWLS. 

"  These  are  the  gifts  of  Art,  and  Art  thrives  most 
Where  commerce  has  enriched  the  busy  coast ; 
He  catches  all  improvements  in  his  flight. 
Spreads  foreign  wonders  in  his  country's  sight, 
Imports  what  others  have  invented  well, 
And  stirs  his  own  to  match  them  or  excel. 
'Tis  thus  reciprocating,  each  with  each, 
Alternately  the  nations  learn  and  teach." 

Cowper. 

Cashmere  is  a  very  rich  and  fertile  province,  surrounded  with 
mountains,  in  the  northern  part  of  Hindostan ;  its  chief  city  is  of 
the  same  name,  and  contains  about  205,000  inhabitants :  this 
country  is  famous  for  its  shawls. 

Before,  however,  proceeding  to  describe  the  method  of  manufactur- 
ing those  beautiful  fabrics,  we  will  in  the  first  place,  give  a  minute 
account  of  the  origin  and  properties  of  the  Cashmere  Angora  Goats, 
or  rather  of  the  new  race,  with  a  statement  of  Mr.  E.  Riley's  views 
in  purchasing  them,  as  laid  by  him  before  the  Society  of  arts, 
London. 

"  Many  years  since  a  resident  in  New  South  Wales  (says  Mr.  R.) 
and  having  in  1S25  and  1828  transported  to  that  territory  two  flocks 
of  the  finest  sheep  procurable  throughout  Germany,  my  father  had 
also  long  contemplated  introducing  there  the  celebrated  Cashmere 
goat,  anticipating  that  the  fulfilment  of  his  views  would,  in  proving 
advantageous  to  himself,  become  also  of  ultimate  benefit  to  the 
colony ;  in  which  expectation,  he  has  been  encouraged  from  the 
results  that  have  attended  the  importation  of  the  Saxon  breed  of 
sheep  into  their  favoured  climates,  the  wools  of  New  South  Wales, 


CASHMERE    SHAWLS.  269 

and  in  proportion  to  their  improvement,  those  also  of  Van  Dieman's 
Ijsind  being  now  eagerly  purchased  by  the  most  intelligent  manu- 
facturers in  preference  to  those  of  equal  prices  imported  from  any 
part  of  Europe. 

"  With  this  object  in  view,  he  subsequently,  during  an  agricul- 
tural tour  on  the  Continent,  directed  my  attention  to  the  Cashmere 
flocks  of  Mons.  Ternaux,  and  in  OctoberlS28, 1  met  this  distinguished 
man  at  his  seat  at  St.  Onen  (Mons.  Ternaux  is  a  great  shawl 
manufacturer  and  is  also  a  Peer  of  France.)  where  he  preserved 
the  elite  of  his  herds ;  the  animals  were  a  mixture  of  various 
sizes  and  colours,  from  a  perfect  white  to  brown,  with  scarcely  any 
stamped  features  as  if  belonging  to  one  race  exclusively ;  they  were 
covered  with  long  coarse  hair,  under  which  so  small  a  quantity  of 
short  soft  down  was  concealed,  that  the  average  produce  of  the 
whole  collection  diJ  not  exceed  three  ounces  each  ;  therefore,  under 
these  unfavourable  circumstances,  my  father  deferred  for  a  time  his 
intention  of  sending  any  of  them  to  Australia. 

"  I  was  then  advised,  by  the  Yiscomte  Perrault  de  .Totemps,  to  see 
the  stock  of  M.  Polonceau  at  Versailles,  he  having,  by  a  happily 
selected  cross,  succeeded  in  increasing  the  quantity  and  value  of  the 
qualities  of  the  Cashmere  goat  beyond  the  most  sanguine  anticipa- 
tions ;  this  gentleman  is  "  higeyiieiir  en  chef''  (chief  engineer)  to 
the  French  government,  and  in  consequence  of  his  enlightened 
taste  for  agricultural  purstiits,  was  also  honoured  with  the  director- 
ship of  the  ^'ferme  modele'^  (model  farm)  at  Grignon.  He  became 
among  the  first  to  purchase  a  chosen  selection  of  the  original  impor- 
tation of  the  cashmere  goat  from  M.  Ternaux,  and  sometime  after 
seeing,  at  one  of  the  estates  of  the  Duchesse  de  Beri,  an  Angora 
buck  with  an  extraordinary  silkiness  of  hair,  having  more  the 
character  of  long  coarse  but  very  soft  down,  Jie  solicited  permisaion 
to  try  the  effects  of  a  union  with  this  fine  animal  and  his  own 
pure  Cashmeres.  The  improvement  even  in  the  first  drop  was 
so  rapid  that  it  induced  him  to  persevere,  and  when  I  first  saw  his 
small  herd  they  were  in  the  third  generation  from  the  males 
produced  solely  by  the  first  cross ;  the  unwillingness  however 
of  M.  Polonceau  to  part  with  any  number  of  them  at  this  period 
(the  only  alienation  he  has  made  from  the  favourite  products 
of  his  solicitude  being  two  males  and  two  females  to  the 
King  of  Wirtemberg,  for  the  sum  of  3400  francs,)  caused  my 
father  again  to  postpone  his  intentions  until  my  return  from  the 
Australasian  Colonies,  judging  that  M.  Polonceau  w^ould  then  prob- 
ably be  enabled  to  dispose  of  a  sufficient  number,  and  that  the  con- 


270  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

stancy  and  properties  of  the  race  would  by  that  tune  be  more 
decidedly  determined. 

"  On  my  arrival  in  England  at  the  close  of  1S31,  he  again  re- 
curred to  his  favourite  project  of  introducing  these  animals  into  our 
colonies,  for  which  purpose  I  went  to  France  with  the  intention  of 
purchasing  a  small  flock  of  M.  Polonceau,  should  I  find  all  his 
expectations  of  the  Cashmere  Angora  breed  verified,  which  having 
perfectly  ascertained.  I  at  length  succeeded  in  persuading  M.  Polon- 
ceau to  cede  to  me  ten  females  in  kid,  and  three  males,  and  I  for- 
tunately was  able  to  convey  the  whole  in  health  to  London,  with 
tlie  intention  of  proceeding  as  speedily  as  possible  with  them  to  Port 
Jackson,  looking  sanguiuely  forward  not  only  to  their  rapid  increase 
but  also  to  c7'ossi)ig  the  connjion  goats  of  the  country  with  this 
valuable  breed,  in  full  expectation  that  they  ma)-,  exclusive  of  their 
own  pure  down,  become  thus  the  means  of  forming  a  desirable 
addition  to  the  already  much  prized  importations  from  New  South 
Wales  and  Van  Dieman's  Land.  I  am  led  to  the  conclusion  that 
the  latter  result  may  be  accomplished,  as  M.  Polonceau,  who  has 
tried  the  experiment  with  the  native  goat  of  France,  has  obtained 
animals  of  the  second  cross  very  httle  inferior  to  the  breed  that  has 
rendered  his  name  so  distinguished.  He  has  also  crossed  the  com- 
mon goat  with  the  pure  Cashmere,  but  only  obtained  so  tardy  an 
ameUoration,  that  it  required  eight  or  ten  generations  to  produce  a 
down  simply  equal  to  their  inferior  quantity  and  quality  when  com- 
pared to  the  produce  of  the  Cashmere  Angora." 

From  the  opinion  generally  entertained  of  their  value,  and  by 
several  eminent  manufacturers,  of  the  pecuhar  qualities  of  their 
improved  down,  with  the  interest  the}^  express  in  their  intended 
introduction  into  the  British  Colonies,  W.  Riley  revisited  France, 
and  ag-ain  induced  M.  Polonceau  to  admit  of  a  similar  selection 
from  his  herd  with  also  two  bucks  and  two  does  of  the  pure  Angora 
race  from  the  Duchesse  de  Beri. 

ORIGIN  AND  PROGRESS  OF  THE  NEW  RACE  OF  CASH- 
MERE OR  ANGORA  GOATS. 

M.  Polonceau  created  the  new  race  of  Cashmere  Angora  goats, 
in  1822,  by  crossing  the  pure  Cashmeres  imported  into  France  by 
M.  Ternaux  and  ]M.  Jaubert,  (Monsieur  Jaubert  has  been  a  member 
of  the  Chamber  des  Deputies  for  several  years  past.)  under  the  pro- 
tection and  patronage  of  the  French  government,  in  1829,  with  the 
piu-e  breed  afterwards  introduced  into  France  from  Angora. 


CASHMERE     SHAWLS.  271 

Since  that  period  he  has  unremittingly  persevered  in  the  improve- 
ment so  immediately  effected,  and  has  proved  during  the  several 
years  which  have  elapsed,  that  an  entire  satisfactory  result  in  the 
union  of  the  most  essential  qualities  of  down,  abundance,  length, 
fineness,  lustre,  and  softness,  was  accomplished  by  the  first  cross, 
without  any  return  having  ensued  to  the  individual  characters  of 
either  of  the  primitive  races,  and  in  consequence,  he  has  since 
constantly  propagated  the  produce  of  that  cross  among  themselves, 
careful  only  of  preserving  animals  entirely  white  and  of  employing 
for  propagation  those  bucks  w4iich  had  the  down  in  tlie  greatest 
quantity  and  of  the  finest  quality  with  the  smallest  proportion  of 
hair. 

In  1826,  the  "  Societie  Royale  et  Centrale  d'  Agriculture  de  Paris" 
acquainted  with  the  interesting  result  of  M.  Polonceau's  flock,  being 
at  that  time  in  the  third  generation,  and  considering  that  the  down 
of  this  new  race  was  more  valuable  than  that  of  the  East,  and  that 
it  was  the  most  beautiful  of  filaceous  materials  known,  as  it  com- 
bines the  softness  of  Cashmere  with  the  lustre  of  silk,  awarded  him 
their  large  gold  medal  at  their  session,  4th  April  1826,  and  nom- 
inated him  a  member  of  their  society  in  the  following  year. 

In  1827,  at  the  exhibition  of  the  produce  of  National  Industry, 
the  jury  appointed  to  judge  the  merits  of  the  objects  exposed,  also 
awarded  him  their  medal. 

At  present  the  animals  are  in  the  twelfth  generation,  their  health 
and  vigour,  the  constancy  of  their  qualities,  and  abundance  of  their 
down  without  any  degeneration,  prove  that  this  new  race  may  be 
regarded  as  one  entirely  fixed  and  established,  requiring  solely  the 
care  that  is  generally  observed  with  valuable  breeds ;  that  is  to  say, 
a  judicious  choice  of  those  employed  for  their  reproduction,  and  in 
such  a  climate  as  New  South  Wales  it  may  be  reasonably  expected 
that  the  brilliant  quahties  of  their  down  may  yet  be  improved  as 
has  been  so  eminently  the  case  with  the  wool  of  the  merino  and 
Saxon  sheep  imported  there. 

M.  Polonceau  has  goats  that  have  yielded  as  many  as  thirty 
ounces  of  the  down,  in  one  season,  and  he  states  that  the  whole  of 
his  herd  produce  from  twelve  to  twenty  ounces ;  thus  showing  the 
astonishing  advantages  this  new  breed  has  over  the  uncrossed  Cash- 
mere, which  never  yield  more  than  four  ounces  and  seldom  exceed 
two  ounces  each. 

This  gentleman  also  states,  that,  the  Cashmere  Angora  goats, 
are  more  robust  and  more  easily  nourished  than  the  common  goat, 
and  that  thev  are  less  capricious  and  more  easily  managed  in  a 


272  THE    ART    OF   WEAVING. 

flock  ;  and  from  the  experience  he  has  already  had,  he  finds  them 
much  more  docile  than  even  sheep.  They  prefer  the  leaves  of  trees, 
as  do  all  other  goats,  but  they  thrive  either  on  hay  or  straw,  or  green 
fodder,  or  in  meadows  ;  they  also  feed  with  equal  facility  on  heaths, 
and  on  the  most  abrupt  declivities,  where  the  sheep  would  perish  ; 
they  do  not  fear  the  cold,  and  are  allowed  to  remain  all  the  winter 
in  open  sheds.  For  the  first  year  or  two  of  M.  P's.  experiments  he 
thought  it  prudent  to  give  them  aromatic  herbs,  from  time  to  time, 
but  during  the  last  six  years  he  has  not  found  it  necessary.  He 
knows  not  of  any  particular  disease  to  which  they  are  subject,  his 
flock  never  having  had  any.  M.  P.  arranges  they  should  kid  in 
March,  but  occasionally  he  takes  two  falls  from  those  of  sufiicient 
strength  during  the  year. 

The  down  commences  to  grow  in  September,  and  developes  itself 
progressively  until  the  end  of  March,  when  it  ceases  to  grow  and 
detaches  itself,  unless  artificially  removed. 

To  collect  the  down,  he  waits  the  period  when  it  begins  to  detach 
itself,  and  then  the  locks  of  down  which  separate  from  the  skin 
with  little  force  are  taken  ofl^  by  hand ;  the  down  is  taken  from  the 
animals  every  three  or  four  days ;  in  general  it  first  begins  to  fall 
from  the  neck  and  shoulders,  and  in  the  following  four  or  five  days 
from  the  rest  of  the  body  ;  the  collection  is  completed  in  tlie  space 
of  eight  or  ten  days.  Sometimes  the  entire  down  can  be  taken 
from  the  animal  at  one  shearing,  and  almost  in  an  unbroken  fleece, 
when  it  begins  to  loosen.  The  shearing  has  the  advantage  of  pre- 
serving more  perfectly  the  parallelisms  of  the  individual  filaments, 
which  much  increase  the  facility  of  combing  and  preparing  the 
down  for  manufacture. 

The  mills  for  spinning  Cashmere  wool  have  multiplied  very  much 
of  late  years  in  France,  and  the  prices  of  the  yarn  have  fallen  from 
25  to  30  per  cent,  notwithstanding  their  improved  fineness  and 
quality.  There  is  a  fabric  made  with  a  mixture  of  Cashmere  down 
and  spun  silk,  which  is  becoming  very  general :  one  of  the  manu- 
facturers, M.  Hindenlang,  exhibited  samples  of  Cashmere  cloth 
woven  with  yarn  as  fine  as  No.  130  for  warp,  and  No.  228  for 
weft. 

Messrs.  Polino,  Brothers,  of  Paris,  produced  an  assortment  of 
Cashmere  pieces  from  22  to  100  francs  per  yard,  dyed  of  every 
fancy  shade :  their  establishment,  at  Ferti  Bernard,  employs  700 
operatives  with  an  hydrauhc  wheel  of  60  horse  power. 

The  Oriental  Cashmere  shawls  are  woven  by  processes  extremely 
slow,  and  consequently  costly,  whence  their  prices  are  very  high  ; 


CASHMERE     SHAWLS.  273 

Still  sold  in  Paris  at  from  3500  to  2500  francs  each,  and  even 
50,000  francs  have  been  paid  for  one  shawl.  It  became  necessary, 
therefore,  either  to  rest  satisfied  with  work  which  should  have 
merely  a  surface  appearance,  or  contrive  economical  methods  of 
weaving,  to  produce  the  real  Cashmere  style  with  much  less  labour. 
By  the  aid  of  the  draw  loom,  and  still  better,  the  Jacquard  loom, 
M.  Ternaux  first  succeeded  in  weaving  Cashmere  shawls  perfectly 
similar  to  the  Oriental  in  external  aspect,  which  became  fashionable 
under  the  name  of  French  Cashmere.  But  to  produce  shawls  al- 
together identical  on  both  sides,  with  the  Eastern,  was  a  more  diffi- 
cult task,  which  was  accompUshed  only  at  a  later  period  by  M. 
Bauson  of  Paris. 

In  both  modes  of  manufacture,  the  piece  is  mounted  by  drawing 
the  warp  through  the  harness  and  ground  headles,  as  is  commonly 
practised  for  warps  in  the  Jacquard  loom.  The  weaving  of  imita- 
tion shawls  is  executed  as  usual  by  as  many  shuttles  as  there  are 
colours  in  the  design  or  pattern,  and  which  are  thrown  across  the 
warp,  in  the  order  established  by  the  design.  The  greater  number 
of  these  weft  yarns  being  introduced  only  at  intervals  into  the  web 
\vhen  the  composition  of  the  pattern  requires  it,  they  remain  float- 
ing loose  at  the  back  of  the  piece  and  are  cut  afterwards  without 
affecting  in  the  least  the  quality  of  the  texture,  but  there  is  a  con- 
siderable v/aste  of  yarn  in  the  weaving,  which  is  worked  up  into 
carpets. 

The  weaving  of  the  imitation  of  real  Cashmere  shawls  is  differ- 
ent from  the  above.  The  yarns  intended  to  be  for  the  weft  are 
not  only  equal  in  number  to  the  colours  of  the  pattern  to  be  imitated, 
but  besides  this,  as  many  little  shuttles,  (like  those  used  by  em- 
broiderers and  lace  manufacturers.  See  Figs.  135  and  136,)  are 
filled  with  these  yarns  as  there  are  to  be  colours  repeated  in  the 
breadth  of  the  piece,  which  renders  their  number  considerable  when 
the  pattern  is  somewhat  complicated  and  loaded  with  colours  ;  each 
of  these  small  bobbins  or  shuttles  passes  through  only  that  portion 
of  the  flower  or  pattern  in  which  the  colour  of  its  yarn  is  to  appear, 
and  stops  at  the  one  side  and  the  other  of  the  cloth,  alternately, 
exactly  at  its  limit ;  it  then  returns  upon  itself  after  having  crossed 
the  thread  of  the  adjoining  shuttle  :  from  this  reciprocal  intertex- 
ture  of  all  the  yarns  of  the  shuttles,  it  results,  that  although  the 
weft  is  composed  of  a  great  many  different  threads  they  no  less 
constitute  a  continuous  line  in  the  whole  breadth  of  the  web  upon 
which  the  lay  or  batten  acts  in  the  ordinary  way. 

We  see,  therefore,  that  the  whole   art  of  manufacturing   this 

35 


274  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

Cashmere  cloth  consists,  in  avoiding  the  confusion  of  the  shuttles, 
and  in  not  striking  up  the  lay  till  all  have  fulfilled  their  function. 
The  labour  does  not  exceed  the  strength  of  a  woman,  even 
though  she  has  to  direct  the  loom  and  work  the  treadles  :  seated  on 
her  bench  at  the  end  opposite  to  the  middle  of  the  beam,  she  has 
for  aids,  in  weaving  shawls  from  45  to  52  inches  wide,  two  girl  ap- 
prentices, whom  she  directs  and  instructs  in  their  tasks.  About 
four  hundred  day's  work  are  required  for  a  Cashmere  shawl  of  that 
breadth. 

In  the  Oriental  process  all  the  figures  in  relief  are  made  simply 
Avith  a  slender  pirn,  without  the  shuttle  used  in  European  weaving. 
By  the  Indians,  the  flower  and  its  ground  are  made  with  the  pirn 
by  means  of  an  intertwisting  which  renders  them,  in  some  measure, 
independent  of  the  warp. 

Considered  in  reference  to  their  materials,  the  French  shawls  pre- 
sent three  distinct  classes,  which  characterize  the  three  fabrics  of 
Paris,  Lyons,  and  Nimes.  Paris  manufactures  the  French  Cashmere, 
so  called,  of  which  both  the  warp  and  the  weft  are  the  yarn  of  pure 
Cashmere  down  ;  this  web  represents  with  fidelity,  the  figures  and 
the  shades  of  colour  of  the  Cashmere  shawl  which  it  copies  :  the 
deception  would  be  complete  if  the  reverse  of  the  piece  did  not  show 
the  cut  ends,  as  in  common  shawl  weaving.  The  warp  of  the 
imitation  Hindoo  shawl,  also,  woven  at  Paris,  is  composed  of 
spun  silk,  which  reduces  its  price  without  much  impairing  its 
beauty. 

Lyons,  however,  has  made  the  greatest  progress  in  the  manufac- 
ture of  shawls  ;  it  excels  particularly  in  the  texture  of  its  Thibet 
shawls,  the  weft  of  which  is  a  mixture  of  wool  and  spun  silk. 

Nimes  is  remarkable  for  the  low  price  of  its  shawls,  in  which, 
spun  silk,  Thibet  down,  and  cotton  are  all  worked  up  together. 

It  appears  that  M.  L.  Girad,  at  Livres,  near  Paris,  has  succeeded 
best  in  imitating  Cashmere  shawls,  exhibiting  all  the  variety  of  de- 
sign and  colouring,  which  appears  in  the  Oriental. 

The  shawl  merchants  of  India  admire  the  ingenuity  of  the 
French  artists  in  imitating  Cashmere  shawls,  but  condemn  the 
cloth  on  account  of  its  harshness,  which  may  consist  in  a  difference 
in  the  twisting  of  the  yarn.  In  the  shawl  country,  there  are  three 
coloured  wools,  white,  light  brown,  and  dark  brown,  the  two  last 
are  from  Thibet,  the  other  from  Bholkera ;  the  light  brown  will 
receive  four  colours,  viz.,  black,  blue,  green  and  brown  ;  the  dark 
brown  will  receive  only  black,  brown  and  blue.  The  shawl  mer- 
chants state,  that  the  colours  in  the  English  shawls  are  fugitive. 


LACE    MANUFACTURE.  275 

The  colours  now  used  do  not  exceed  fifty  in  the  most  elaborate  pro- 
ductions of  the  Cashmere  loom.  Formerly  it  was  said  that  three 
hundred  shades  of  colour  were  used. 

The  embroidery  is  not  worked  with  the  needle  but  woven  in  the 
cloth.  The  patterns  are  read  off  from  a  book,  and  not  from  a 
drawing.  There  is  an  embroidery  language,  by  which  the  colours, 
number,  division,  and  distribution  and  manipulations  of  the  threads, 
and  the  forms  and  sizes  of  the  flowers,  foliage,  &c.,  are  symbolical- 
ly designated.  The  looseness  of  twist  in  the  web  is  owing  to  being 
done  by  the  hand  ;  these  objections,  however,  have  all  lately  been 
remedied  by  the  ingenuity  of  the  French  artists,  and  particularly 
Messrs.  Polino  Brothers,  of  Paris. 


SECTION   EIGHTH. 


LACE    MANUFACTURE. 

The  history  of  the  arts  furnishes  no  instance  of  such  remarkable 
changes  in  the  wages  of  labour,  and  no  such  instructive  lessons  of 
the  influence  of  mechanical  improvements,  as  that  afforded  by  the 
manufacture  of  bobbin-net  lace.  For  some  time  after  its  commence- 
ment, in  Nottingham,  in  the  year  1809,  it  was  common  for  an 
artizan  to  abandon  his  usual  occupation  and  betake  himself  to  a 
lace  frame,  in  which  he  became  a  share  holder,  and  realize  by  work- 
ing upon  it,  from  20s.  to  40s.  per  day.  In  consequence  of  such 
enormous  earnings,  Nottingham,  with  Loughborough,  and  the 
neighbouring  villages,  very  soon  became  the  theatre  of  an  epidemic 
mania,  unequalled  in  modern  times.*  Many  unfortunate  individuals, 
although  destitute  of  mechanical  genius  or  even  talent  of  any  kind, 
tormented  themselves  both  day  and  night  with  schemes  of  bobbins, 
pushers,  lockers,  point-bars,  and  needles  of  every  variety  of  shape 
imaginable,  till  their  minds  got  permanently  bewildered.  Indeed, 
several  lost  entirely  what  little  sense  they  once  possessed ;    and 


*  For  an  account  of  the  lace  and  net- work  manufactures  in  ancient  day  a, 
the  reader  is  referred  to  page  5,  and  from  page  41  to  57. 


276  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

Others  after  cherishing  visions  of  the  most  unbounded  wealth,  as  in 
the  dreamy  age  of  alchemy,  finding  their  projects  abortive,  sunk 
into  the  lowest  depths  of  despair,  and  committed  suicide,  by  Mowing 
out  their  brains  7 

Bobbin-net  lace  is  a  light  semi-transparent  texture  of  fine  cotton 
thread,  arranged  in  hexagonal  meshes.  This  species  of  cloth  or 
web  is  produced  by  means  of  a  warp,  the  same  as  in  plain  weaving, 
except  that  the  threads  are  further  apart.  A  specimen  of  this  tex- 
ture is  represented  at  Fig.  132. 

Fig.  132. 


The  weft  or  filling,  however  is  applied  in  quite  a  difl^erent  way  from 
that  of  plain  cloth:  it  consists,  in  the  first  place,  of  an  equal  number  of 
threads  with  the  warp  ;  and  these  weft  threads  are  made  to  revolve 
round  every  two  threads  of  the  warp,  which  changes  the  relative 
positions  of  the  warp  threads.  Second. — Among  all  the  pairs  of 
the  warp-threads  which  have  been  thus  twined  together  by  weft- 
thread,  one  of  them  is  shifted  to  the  neighbouring  warp-thread  upon 
the  left,  and  connected  to  it  b)'  the  convolution  of  the  weft  thread  ; 
after  which,  the  shifted  warp-threads  change  back  to  their  first  po- 
sition, where  they  are  again  entwined  or  laced  together  by  the  weft 
thread,  as  before  ;  and  the  other  threads  of  these  pairs  shift  to  the 
right  and  are  entwined  or  laced  together  in  the  same  manner  as 
the  first  or  left  hand  set  were.  Third. — "While  this  maneuvering  in 
the  positions  of  the  warp  threads  is  in  progress,  the  weft  threads 
which  entwine  or  lace  them  together,  also  move  to  one  .side,  and 
after  the  warp-threads  have  been  laced  or  entwined  twelve  times 


LACE    MANUFACTURE.  277 

with  a  weft-thread,  the  latter  moves  sideways  through  one  interval 
of  the  warp-thread,  and,  if  it  were  coloured,  would  produce,  in  the 
course  of  fabricating  the  cloth,  a  diagonal  line  across  it.  The  man- 
ufacture of  lace,  therefore,  differs  from  plain  weaving,  in  this,  that 
the  threads  of  the  warp  are  not  alternately  raised  and  depressed, 
for  the  purpose  of  introducing  the  weft,  but  are  shifted  laterally 
to  the  next  pair,  to  which  they  become  united  by  the  weft-threads, 
working  likewise  in  pairs,  each  of  them  entwining  two  individual 
threads  at  once,  as  in  the  manner  above  explained. 


rie-.133 


Fig.  133  will  give  the  reader  a  more  correct  idea  of  the  nature 
or  mode  of  manufacturing  this  species  of  texture,  by  the  crossing  or 
twining  of  the  warp  and  weft-threads  together.  This  specimen  shows, 
upon  a  magnified  or  enlarged  scale,  how  the  fabric  is  produced  from 
the  conjunction  of  three  threads  ;  one  of  which  proceeds  from  the 
top,  downwards,  in  a  winding  or  wave  line  (constituting  Hogarth's 
line  of  beauty  ;)  the  second  of  these  threads  runs  towards  the 
right,  and  the  third  to  the  left,  crossing  each  other  obliquely  in  the 
centre  between  each  two  meshes  throughout  the  series,  as  shown 
in  tile  Fig.  The  warp-threads,  as  before  stated,  are  placed  perpen- 
dicularly in  the  machine,  and  derive  their  curvature  from  the  ten- 
sion of  the  obliquely  disposed  weft-threads,  by  which  they  are  alter- 
nately drawn  to  the  right  and  to  the  left. 

The  weft-threads  which  are  to  pass  through  the  intervals  of  the 
warp,  in  order  to  interlace  or  entwine  two  threads  of  the  latter 
together,  are  wound  upon  little  bobbins  ;  one  of  which  is  represented, 
one  fourth  its  real  size,  at  Fig.  136,  where  both  an  edge  and  a  side 


278  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

view  are  given.  It  consists  of  two  thin  discs,  cut  out  from  sheet 
brass,  by  a  press  or  stamping  machine  ;  and  they  are  so  connected 
or  riveted  together,  that  a  narrow  space  or  circular  groove  is  left  be- 
tween them,  as  shown  in  the  edge  view,  Fig.  136.  A  round 
hole  is  pierced  in  the  centre  of  each  bobbin,  as  shown  in  the  Fig., 
having  a  little  notch  or  jog  at  one  point,  for  guiding  the  bobbin  upon 
a  spindle  with  a  feather  upon  it  to  fit  the  notch  or  jog  ;  which  pre- 
vents the  bobbins  from  being  misplaced  on  the  spindle.  Any  con- 
venient number  of  these  bobbins  are  put  upon  a  spindle,  which 
spindle  is  then  arranged  in  a  suitable  winding  machine,  for  the 
purpose  of  filling  the  bobbins  with  weft-thread,  previous  to  being 
put  into  their  respective  working  positions  in  the  lace-frame.  After 
these  bobbins  have  been  filled  with  weft-thread,  each  of  them  is 
placed  within  a  small  iron  frame,  like  that  represented  at  Fig.  135, 
and  this  frame  is  known  to  lace  manufacturers  by  the  name  of  the 
bobbin-carriage  :  Fig.  13,5  exhibits  a  side  view  and  section  of  this 
frame,  fourth  its  real  size.  Into  the  circular  or  gouged-out  space  of 
the  carriage,  the  bobbin  is  inserted,  so  that  the  grooved  border  of 
its  discs  embraces  the  narrow  edge  A  A  ;  and  the  bobbin  is  kept 
from  falling  out  by  the  pressure  spring  B,  which  spring,  also,  com- 
municates sufficient  friction  to  prevent  it  from  revolving  too  easily, 
but  yet  allows  the  thread  to  be  given  off",  when  pulled  with  gentle 
force.  The  thread,  as  it  comes  from  the  bobbin,  escapes  through 
the  eye  C,  at  the  upper  side  or  the  top  of  the  carriage  ;  after  which, 
it  takes  its  relative  position  in  the  formation  of  the  lace. 

The  variety  of  mechanical  combinations  to  which  this  manufac- 
ture has  given  birth,  is  without  a  parallel  in  any  other  branch  of 
the  arts.  Since  1809,  when  Mr.  Heathcoate  obtained  his  first  suc- 
cessful patent,  a  great  number  of  other  patents  have  been  granted 
for  making  lace.  But  we  shall  confine  ourself  to  giving  a  faithful 
description  of  the  most  recent  improvements  which  have  been  made 
in  the  manufacture  of  this  kind  of  texture,  namely,  by  the  ingen- 
ious John  Heathcoate,  of  Tiverton,  county  of  Devon,  a  gentleman 
who  may  with  justice  be  called,  the  father  of  the  lace  manufacture 
in  Europe ;  and  William  Crofts,  an  ingenious  mechanic  of  Rad- 
ford, county  of  Nottingham,  with  whose  improvements  w^e  shall 
commence. 

Mr.  Crofts'  first  invention  consists  in  a  mode  of  producing  orna- 
mental spots  on  a  plain  bobbin-net ;  which  spots  are  formed  while 
the  lace  is  in  progress  of  fabrication,  by  means  of  coiling  up  and 
accumulaiing  certain  of  the  warp  threads  into  masses,  so  as  to  pro- 


LACE    MANUFACTURE. 


279 


duce  spots  at  such  parts  of  the  plain  net  as  are  required  to  form  the 
intended  pattern. 

The  invention,  is  an  apphcation  of  pecuharly  jointed  wires,  in  con- 
junction with  hooks  for  catching  the  threads  which  are  to  be  looped 
up,  in  order  to  form  spots,  with  certainty  and  facility  ;  the  action  of 
the  hooks,  being  aided  by  the  pointed  wires,  enables  the  machinery 
to  perform  without  interruption,  the  backward  and  forward  swing- 
ing motions,  which  are  usually  given  to  the  bobbins  and  carriages, 
in  circular  comb  rotary  machines. 

Fig.  134. 


Fig.  134  represents  the  operating  parts  of  a  lace  machine,  taken 
in  transverse  section.  When  the  spots  are  about  to  be  formed,  the 
front  working  points  K,  are  drawn  towards  the  front  of  the  machine 
out  of  their  working  positions,  and  remain  in  a  state  of  inactivity, 
during  the  formation  of  the  spots.  The  bobbins  A*  and  B,'  with 
their  threads  a,*  and  b,*  intended  to  form  the  spots,  are  then  selected 
by  the  pushers  3,  and  projected  forward  out  of  their  places  in  the 


280  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

back  combs  E,  into  the  front  combs  D.  The  bobbins  A  and  B,  not 
used  for  forming  the  spots,  are  locked  in  the  back  combs  E,  daring 
the  spotting  operation,  by  the  blade  /,  on  the  back  locker  bar  F. 
There  is  likewise  another  blade  2,  attatched  to  the  collars  8,  on  the 
locker  bar  F,  by  means  of  which  the  bobbins  A*  and  B*  can  be 
locked  m  the  back  combs  E  when  required.  The  locker  bar  F 
receives  motion  from  a  lever  g ;  and  the  collars  8,  receive  motion 
from  a  lever  10 :  both  levers  are  worked  by  cams,  not  shown  in  the 
drawing.  There  is  another  locker  bar  F*,  for  working  the  carnages 
in  the  front  combs  D.  The  pointed  wire  bar  7  and  the  hook  bar 
13,  are  attached  to  the  lever  14,  by  the  same  pin,  but  may  receive 
slight  shogging  motions,  the  one  independent  of  tlie  other ;  they 
are  raised  and  depressed  by  the  lever  14,  which  receives  its  motion 
from  various  other  levers  and  cams,  but  unnecessary  to  show  in  the 
drawings,  as  every  person  at  all  acquainted  with  the  lace  manufac- 
ture, will  readily  be  able  to  understand  them.  The  pointed  wires 
6,  and  hooks  1,  are  represented  as  descending  amongst  the  bobbin 
threads,  which  are  pressed  on  one  side  by  the  pointed  wires  6,  in 
order  that  they  may  be  caught  by  the  hooks  1 ;  and  these  on  as- 
cending, loop  the  threads  around  the  grooved  back  points  G,  and 
the  additional  back  points  5 ;  at  the  same  time,  the  bobbin  threads, 
by  a  suitable  movement,  are  whipped  twice  round  their  respective 
warp  threads. 

The  back  points  G,  lie  below  the  additional  back  points  5,  which 
enter  into  the  grooves  in  the  points  G  and  assist  in  making  the 
spots,  as  well  as  of  keeping  them  in  correct  form.  Their  mode  of 
application  is  shown  in  the  figure ;  the  points  G  being  withdrawn 
as  soon  as  the  spotting  is  effected ;  leaving  the  points  5  in  the 
centre  of  the  spots  in  order  to  retain  them  in  their  places,  until  the 
points  G  are  again  inserted  between  the  threads,  beneath  the  spots. 

The  bar  g^  of  the  grooved  back  points  G,  is  attached  to  the  lever 
/i,  by  which  it  is  worked,  and  the  bar  11,  of  the  additional  points  5, 
is  attached  to,  and  worked  by  the  lever  ]  2.  The  front  points  K 
are  connected  to,  and  worked  by  the  lever  M.  H  is  the  fiont  driving 
bar,  and  I  is  the  back  one.  The  bars  of  the  front  and  back  guides 
for  the  warp  threads  are  marked  /,  t.  The  wire  and  hook  bars,  13 
and  7,  are  guided  up  and  down  in  front  of  the  warp  threads  by  the 
point  of  a  gauge  screw  21,  bearing  against  the  inclined  face  of  a 
fixed  conducting  guide  22,  fastened  to  the  top  of  the  framing. 

The  particular  features  of  novelty  in  this  part  of  Mr.  Crofts's  ma- 
chinery are,  the  points  and  hooks  above  described,  for  selecting  and 
drawing  up  the  threads  ;    the  application  of  the  additional  back 


LACE    MANUFACTURE. 


281 


points,  for  the  purpose  of  keeping  the  spots  and  meshes  of  the  net 
in  correct  form  ;  and  also  in  arranging  the  various  parts  of  the  ad- 
ditional machinery,  which  is  requisite  for  working  spots  in  bobbin- 
net  lace ;  also,  in  combining  such  arranged  spotting  machinery, 
with  the  usual  parts  of  rotary  machinery,  so  that  the  spotting  ma- 
chinery may  be  put  in  action  to  produce  patterns  in  the  lace,  by  the 
same  rotary  impulse  which  causes  the  plain  net  to  be  made,  through 
the  ordinary  evolutions  of  the  machinery  to  which  the  spotting  ap- 
paratus is  appended  ;  and  also  in  arranging  in  like  manner,  the 
various  parts  of  spotting  machinery,  so  as  to  dispense  with  any 
selection  of  particular  bobbins  and  carriages,  and  combining  such 
arranged  spotting  machinery  with  the  ordinary  fluted  roller  machi- 
nery. 

Fig.  137. 


The  improvements  shown  in  Fig.  137,  consist  in  a  method  of 

36 


282  THE    ART    OF    "WEAVING. 

combining  the  spotting  machinery  with  ordinary  fluted  roller  ma- 
chinery. In  fluted  roller  machinery,  no  selection  can  be  made  of 
the  bobbin  carriages,  which  are  to  be  used  in  spotting  :  because 
all  the  carriages  must  go  backward  and  forward,  in  complete  rows ; 
therefore,  whilst  the  spotting  is  going  on,  all  the  warp  threads  must 
remain  motionless,  without  shogging,  except  those  particular  warp 
threads  which  are  hooked  up  to  form  spots. 

To  effect  the  shogging  of  particidar  warp  threads,  four  extra 
series  of  guides  and  guide  bars,  marked  w,  x,  y,  z.  arc  provided  and 
are  applied  close  against  the  ordinary  guide  bars  f,  t.  in  the  usual 
manner  of  applying  extra  guide  bars,  for  selvage  threads.  A  racking 
or  shogging  motion  is  given  to  two  of  these  extra  guide  bars  at 
each  time  of  spotting.  In  this  arrangement,  the  pointed  wires  6, 
must  have  two  prongs  each,  to  include  between  them  the  warp 
threads,  intended  to  form  the  spot ;  one  of  these  prongs  will  then 
bend  aside  the  warp  thread  included  between  them,  so  as  to  bear 
it  into  the  hook  1.  and  keep  it  securely  in  the  hook,  whilst  it  is 
going  up  to  the  points.  The  warp  threads  which  are  intended  to 
be  caught  or  hooked  up,  are  conducted  through  the  eyes  of  the 
extra  guides  tr,  r,  y, :?,  and  are  supplied  from  two  extra  warp  rollers, 
(unnecessary  to  show  in  the  drawing.)  one  to  each  pair  of  guides. 
The  warp  roller,  which  supplies  the  other  ordinary  warp  threads,  is 
shown  at  S, 

The  fluted  rollers  R  R  R  R,  which  drive  the  bobbin  carriages,  are 
turned  by  a  toothed  sector  or  fan,  (in  the  usual  way.)  taking  into 
toothed  pinions,  attached  to  their  extremities.  The  action  is  so 
nearly  the  same,  whether  warp  threads  or  bobbin  threads  are  to  be 
taken  up.  that  further  explanation  is  unnecessary. 

Mr.  Crofts's  third  invention  or  improvement  in  lace  machinery 
consists  of  an  improved  mode  of  combining  together  and  actuating 
certain  parts  of  machinery,  already  known,  and  used  for  making 
bobbin-net  lace  ;  by  means  of  which  two  thicknesses,  or  tissues,  or 
webs  of  lace  net,  may  be  produced  together,  in  the  same  machine  ; 
that  is  to  say,  the  lace  net  which  is  made  in  the  machines,  by  twist- 
ing together  the  bobbin  threads  and  warp-threads,  after  being  formed 
into  regular  meshes  by  the  taking-up  action  of  the  points,  is  wound 
or  rolled  up  around  the  lace  roller,  as  fast  as  it  is  made  ;  which 
lace  will  consist  of  two  thicknesses,  in  close  contact,  the  successive 
rows  of  meshes  of  both  nets  having  been  gathered  up  together  like 
one  net,  by  the  said  taking-up  action  of  the  points.  When  such 
lace  is  afterwards  unrolled  and  removed  from  off  the  roller,  it  can 
be  separated  into  two  distinct  pieces  of  lace  net. 


LACE    MANUFACTURE.  283 

This  improved  mode  of  Mr.  C's.  may  be  carried  into  effect,  by- 
parts  of  fluted  bar  or  fluted  roller  machinery  ;  which  is  so  called, 
because,  the  bobbins  and  carriages  are  moved  backwards  and 
forwards  in  the  combs  and  between  the  warp-threads,  by  means 
of  revolving-  flute, I  rollers,  the  flutes  of  which  act  between  corres- 
ponding teeth,  formed  at  the  under  side  of  the  carriages,  in  the 
same  manner  as  the  teeth  of  pinions  act  in  teeth  of  cog-wheels  ;  or 
it  may  be  carried  into  effect,  by  parts  of  circular  comb  machinery, 
the  bobbins  and  carriages  of  which  are  moved  in  the  combs,  by 
the  joint  action  of  what  are  called  swinging  driving  bars,  situated 
above  the  combs,  and  lockers,  situated  beneath  the  combs,  turning 
on  centres  ;  which  lockers  catch  projecting  nibs  at  the  under  sides 
of  the  carriages  (see  Fig.  234)  and  draw  them  out  from  between 
the  warp-threads  into  the  opposite  combs  to  those  from  which  they 
have  been  projected  by  the  previous  action  of  the  driving  bars. 

Fig.  138  represents  the  mode  of  operating  by  means  of  fluted 
roller  machinery.  The  bobbin  carriages  A  and  7,  have  teeth  at 
their  under  parts  to  be  acted  upon  by  the  flutes  of  the  rollers  C,  D, 
and  1,  in  order  to  move  the  carriages  backwards  in  the  combs  F.  F, 
and  2. 

These  combs  have  tongs,  projecting  from  them  at  each  end, 
which  are  cast  in  leads  to  hold  the  combs  together,  the  lead  at  one 
end  of  each  comb  being  adapted  to  be  screwed  against  the  comb 
bars  G,  H,  and  3,  as  usual  in  fluted  bar  machinery  ;  but  the  leads 
4  4  4,  by  which  the  extra  tongs,  at  the  opposite  ends  of  the  combs, 
are  united,  are  for  the  purpose  of  retaining  the  combs  steadily  at 
their  proper  distances  asunder. 

The  fluted  rollers  C,  U,  and  1,  which  drive  the  bobbin  carriages, 
are  situated  beneath  the  centres  of  the  combs  E,  F,  and  2,  respec- 
tively, in  the  arches  which  are  left  between  the  tongs,  and  are  sup- 
ported on  pivots  at  their  ends,  in  the  usual  manner  of  fluted  bar 
machinery,  each  roller  being  steadied  in  the  middle  of  its  length 
by  bearings  a,  b,  and  5,  to  prevent  it  from  bending  or  springing. 

The  guides  B  and  6,  for  the  warp-threads,  are  cast  in  leads,  and 
are  screwed  on  guide  bars  1*  and  8.  These  guides,  instead  of 
being  close  together,  as  usual  in  fluted  bar  machinery,  are  placed  so 
far  apart,  that  the  middle  row  of  combs  2,  are  included  between 
the  two  rows  of  guides,  in  order  that  the  carriage  A  or  7,  may  pass 
completely  out  from  between  one  row  of  warp  or  guide  threads, 
before  the  same  carriage  makes  its  entrance  between  the  other  row 
of  warp  or  guide  threads ;  whereas,  in  common  fluted  bar  machin- 
ery, the  carriages  must  pass  between  both  rows  of  warp  threads  at 


284 


THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

Fig.  138. 


once.  The  guide  bars  1*  and  8,  are  capable  of  shogging  endways, 
in  order  to  rack  the  warp  threads,  as  usual  in  other  machines. 
The  racking  is  effected  by  a  lever  Z,  at  the  bottom  of  the  machine, 
actuated  by  a  cam,  by  which  lever  the  middle  comb  bar  3,  is 
racked  endways  when  required  to  produce  the  traversing  of  the 
bobbins.* 


*  A  rack  of  lace  is  a  certain  length  of  work,  counted  perpendicularly,  and 
contains  240  meehee  or  holes. 


LACE    MANUFACTURE.  285 

The  bobbins  and  carriages,  combs  and  guides,  are  made  single 
tier  guage,  instead  of  double  tier  guage,  as  used  in  common  fluted 
bar  machinery.* 

The  middle  fluted  roller  1,  is  supported  on  pivots  at  each  end,  in 
bearino-s  aflixed  to  the  end  of  the  middle  comb  bar  3,  so  that  it  will 
partake  of  the  racking  motion  of  the  middle  comb  bar :  each 
extremity  of  its  fluted  part  is  provided  with  what  is  generally  called 
a  "  turn-agaiji"  piece,t  of  the  same  kind  as  is  commonly  used,  at 
one  end  of  each  of  the  innermost  rollers,  in  ordinary  fluted  bar  ma- 
chines, for  permitting  the  turn-again  of  the  carriages,  that  is  their 
transfer  from  one  row  to  the  other,  at  the  ends  of  their  respective 
rows. 

Owing  to  the  short  length  of  the  combs,  and  to  their  being  con- 
nected by  lead  at  each  end,  it  would  be  difficult  to  take  out  car- 
riages from  the  combs  when  required  ;  therefore,  to  permit  of 
drawing  out  the  carriages,  at  the  open  ends  of  the  combs,  the  two 
rollers  C  and  D,  are  each  supported  in  sockets  11,  11,  which  are 
fastened  in  the  manner  of  short  crank  bar  arms,  to  each  end  of  the 
horizontal  axles  or  spindle  bars  10,  10,  placed  parallel  to  the  comb 
bars.  Each  of  the  axles  10,  are  supported  on  pivots,  so  as  to  be 
capable  of  turning  a  little  round,  in  order  to  let  down  the  fluted 
rollers,  as  much  as  may  be  requisite,  to  disengage  them  from  the 
teeth  of  the  carriages,  in  order  to  set  the  same  at  liberty,  and  per- 
mit them  to  be  drawn  out  at  the  outer  or  open  ends  of  the  combs. 
The  pivots,  at  the  end  of  the  crank  bars,  are  supported  in  bearing 
sockets,  which  are  fastened  to  the  ends  of  the  comb  bars  ;  and  they 
may  be  steadied  in  their  centres  by  a  suitable  support,  fixed  to  the 
middle  of  the  comb  bar. 

When  the  fluted  rollers  C  and  D  are  let  down,  the  carriages, 
must  be  prevented  from  sliding  down  by  their  own  weights  in  either 
of  the  combs  E  or  F,  and  entangling  among  the  warp-threads. 
For  this  purpose  the  flat  bars  12,  12,  are  slidden  upwards  against 
the  inside  flat  surfaces  of  the  comb  bars  G,  and  H,  to  which  they 
are  held  by  screws,  passing  through  upright  slots  in  the  bars,  and 
fixed  into  the  comb  bars  :  thus,  the  bars  12,  12  are  enabled  to  be 

*  The  term  ''■gauge,'"  in  the  lace  manufacture,  means  tlie  number  of  gates, 
slils,  or  interstices,  iii  one  inch  of  the  bolt  bar  comb. 

t  The  Nottingham  lace  manufacturers  give  this  part  of  the  machinery  the 
appellation  of  "  turn-again,'"  being  a  corruption  of  the  phrase  "  timi-agavu" 
This  ium-agam  bears  just  about  the  same  relation  to  the  words  turn  again, 
that  Hingland  bears  to  England,  Hir eland  to  Irela.nd,  or  Halbany  to  Albany. 


286  THE    ART    OF    'WEAVING. 

slidden  upwards  on  these  screws,  in  order  that  their  upper  edges 
may  raise  the  under  side  of  the  carriages  and  stop. 

The  bars  12,  12,  must  be  raised  up  to  the  carriages  at  the  same 
instant  that  the  fluted  rollers  are  let  down  ;  which  is  effected  by 
a  small  elbow  lever  13,  poised  upon  a  centre-pin  14.  The  lower 
arm  of  each  elbow  lever  13,  has  a  notch  or  opening  in  its  end,  to 
receive  a  flange  at  the  lower  edge  of  the  bar  12,  and  the  upper 
arm  of  the  elbow  lever  13,  has  also  a  notch  or  opening  in  its  end, 
to  receive  a  tooth  at  the  end  of  a  short  arm  15,  which  projects  out 
from  the  crank  bar  axis  10,  and  acts  in  the  manner  of  a  short 
lever  to  raise  up  the  flat  bar  12,  by  moving  the  elbow  lever  13. 
When  the  fluted  rollers  are  raised  up  again,  the  bar  12,  is  withdrawn 
by  the  same  movements. 

Rotary  motion  is  given  to  the  fluted  rollers  C,  D,  and  I,  by  a 
sector  L,  taking  into  pinions  at  the  end  of  the  axle  of  each  roller. 
The  sector  L  hangs  loosely  upon  one  of  the  main  centre-pins,  and  is 
moved  backwards  and  forwards,  with  a  vibrating  or  pendulous  mo- 
tion by  means  of  a  link  d,  from  the  upper  end  of  a  lever  behind  the 
machine,  which  receives  its  power  from  a  pair  of  cog  wheels.  The 
warp-threads  for  both  pieces  of  the  double  net,  may  be  supplied 
from  one  large  warp  roller,  such  as  is  commonly  used  in  other  lace 
machines,  instead  of  the  two  marked  K  and  g. 

The  mode  of  operating  in  circular  comb  machinery,  is  sho\Yn  in 
Fig.  139.  The  combs  are  placed  in  three  rows,  as  before  described, 
but  their  shape  is  a  little  different,  because  the  lockers,  which  are 
to  act  beneath  them,  will  not  permit  of  having  projecting  tongs  (as 
in  Fig.  138,)  at  the  end  of  each  comb.  The  middle  comb  2,  has 
the  tong  in  the  centre  of  its  length,  and  the  back  and  front  combs, 
have  their  tongs  at  their  ends. 

The  form  of  the  carriages  is  similar  to  those  used  in  circular 
comb  machines,  with  two  nibs  or  teeth,  at  the  under  side  of  each 
carriage  for  the  blades  c,  a,  of  the  locker  to  take  hold  of  (see 
Fig.  136.) 

The  lockers  C,  D,  are  the  same  as  m  common  circular  comb 
machinery  ;  and  are  placed  beneath  the  front  and  back  combs,  E, 
and  F,  in  a  suitable  position  for  their  blades  c,  and  a,  to  catch  the 
outer  teeth  of  the  carriages  which  are  pushed  into  the  combs  over 
the  lockers,  so  as  to  draw  out  those  carriages  from  between  the 
warp-threads,  when  the  blades  of  the  lockers  are  turned  upwards, 
but  when  they  are  turned  downwards,  their  acting  edges  descend 
below  the  range  of  the  nibs  of  the  carriages  and  allow  the  nibs  to 
pass  over  them.     There  are,  likewise,  two  other  lockers  22,  and  19, 


LACE    MANUFACTURE. 


287 


Vj 


Fig,  139. 


'^'^'VA^ 


with  blades  21,  20,  which  assist  in  passing  the  carriages  out  of  the 
centre  combs  ;  they  are  raised  by  the  upright  sUding  rod  23,  which 
supports  the  sockets  of  the  lockers  ;  y  and  z,  are  links  attached  to 
the  locking  lever. 

The  driving  bars  L  and  M,  are  the  same  as  are  used  in  circular 
comb  machinery,  and  act  with  a  vibrating  or  pendulous  motion, 
to  push  the  carriages  along  in  their  combs  and  pass  them  beneath 
the  warp-threads,  but  the  driving  bars  L,  M,  cannot  push  the  car- 


288  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

liages  quite  through  the  warp-threads :  therefore,  as  soon  as  the 
nibs  of  the  carriages,  which  are  foremost,  get  far  enough  over  the 
blade  of  that  locker,  situated  at  the  opposite  side  of  the  warp-threads, 
then  that  locker  is  turned  up  and  its  blade  will  draw  those  carriages 
quite  through  the  warp-threads. 

The  leading  features  of  novelty  in  this  part  of  Mr.  Crofts'  ma- 
chiner)'^  consist  in  combining  and  arranging  certain  parts  in  such  a 
way  as  to  have  a  middle  row  of  combs,  with  a  row  of  warp-threads, 
on  each  side  of  those  middle  combs,  whereby  one  row  of  carriages 
may  be  passed  entirely  through  one  row  of  warp-threads,  before 
the  other  carriages  arrive  at  the  other  row  of  warp-threads  ;  and  of 
actuating  the  parts  of  machinery,  for  making  lace,  with  suitable 
racking  movements  to  cause  parts  tx)  make  a  double  web  or  tissue 
of  lace-net,  in  the  manner  herein  described  ;  which,  when  taken 
out  of  the  macliine,  can  be  separated  into  two  distinct  pieces  of  lace- 
net,  by  cutting  the  turn  again,  traversing  bobbin,  by  which  the  bor- 
ders or  edges  of  the  piece  of  double  net  were  united  together,  during 
its  fabrication. 

Mr.  Crofts'  fourth  improvement  in  lace-making  machinery  con- 
sists in  certain  alterations  or  arrangements  in  the  structure  and 
mode  of  working  that  class  of  lace  machineiy  called  "  the  levers,'"* 
and  the  circular  comb  machinery,  for  the  purpose  of  making  a  par- 
ticular pattern  of  lace,  having  large  holes  in  it  at  certain  intervals, 
called  bullet  holes.t 

In  applying  this  improvement  to  the  lever  machine,  the  parts 
called  pushers,  which  are  used  for  dividing  the  carriages  into  two 
ranges,  together  with  the  pusher-bars,  and  all  their  supports  and  ap- 
pendages, must  be  entirely  removed  from  the  landing  bars ;  because, 
in  the  proposed  method  of  working,  no  traversing  of  the  carriages 
will  be  required.  The  comb-bar  wheel,  with  its  bolt  and  connec- 
tions for  racking  the  front  comb-bar,  must  also  be  removed ;  the 
front  comb-bar  being  kept  stationary  by  its  gauge  screws. 

If  the  machine  has  been  used  for  making  narrow  breadths  of 
lace,  the  turn-agaui  combs  and  bar  are  removed,  and  the  back 
combs  cast  anew.  If  it  has  been  used  for  making  only  plain  net, 
without  bullet  holes,  the  selvage  guides  are  removed  from  their  bars, 
and  their  racking  wheels  also. 

The  rachet  wheel,  on  the  axles  of  the  racking  wheels,  wliich  has 


*  The  machine  here  referred  to  (the  lever  machine)  was  invented  by  Mr. 
John  Leavers,  of  New  Radford,  in  tlie  year  ISll. 
t  See  "  Egyptian  Shebetz,"  page  40  of  Introduction. 


LACE    MANUFACTURE. 


289 


eight  teeth,  must  be  changed  for  a  new  one,  with  only  six  teeth ; 
and  the  guide-bar  racking  wheel  must  be  removed,  and  a  new  one 
cut,  ha\'ing  three  steps  or  elevations  on  its  circumference.  The 
catch-bar  wheels,  for  lifting  and  letting  fall  the  catch  bars,  are  re- 
moved ;  and  others,  with  three  deep  notches,  are  substituted,  their 
ratchet  wheels  having  six  teeth.     The  number  of  points  are  to  be 

Fig.  140. 


290  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

doubled ;  that  is,  in  what  is  called  a  ten  point  machine,  twenty 
points  are  placed  in  every  inch. 

The  pump  apparatus  or  lever,  for  lifting  and  letting  fall  the  catch 
bar  when  either  of  the  point  bars  come  down  and  go  up  again, 
must  be  disconnected  from  both  point  bars. 

Fig.  140  represents  a  sectional  elevation,  taken  transversely 
through  the  machine,  for  the  purpose  of  showing  the  forms  and 
positions  of  the  working  parts.  The  ratchet  wheel  a,  which 
usually  has  eight  teeth,  must  be  changed  for  one  of  six  teeth  as  in 
the  figure. — This  ratchet  drives  the  notched  wheel  c?,  which  gov- 
erns the  half  way  or  dividing  stop.  This  stop  must  be  adjusted,  so 
as  to  catch  and  detain  the  back  landing  bar  t,  when  the  two  land- 
ing bars  t,  21,  are  quite  down,  or  closed  together,  instead  of  detain- 
ing them  at  a  little  distance  apart,  as  in  the  ordinary  positions,  for 
the  divided  carriages  to  be  caught  by  the  catch  bars,  in  common 
lever  machines. 

The  large  guide-bar  racking  wheel,  must  also  have  thirty -six  teeth, 
and  the  large  racking  wheels,  for  the  extra  guide-bars,  for  bullet 
holing  also  have  thirty- six  teeth  ;  none  of  which  parts  are  shown 
in  the  figure,  being  already  well  known  and  in  connuon  use.  The 
threads,  to  form  the  bullet  holes,  are  provided  with  the  extra  guides 
7/1,  11,  o,  J),  which  are  attached  to  the  usual  guide-bar,  and  each 
receives  a  separate  racking  motion,  the  bullet  holes  being  formed  by 
the  ordinary  method.  A  magnified  portion  of  the  lace  ornamented 
with  bullet  holes,  is  shown  at  Fig.  141. 

Fig.  111. 


The  ratchet  wheel  a,  affixed  to  the  notched  wheel  d,  is  turned 


LACE    MANUFACTURE.  291 

by  the  driver  6,  and  in  place  of  driving-bars  and  lockers,  two  catch 
bars  r  r,  are  appUed,  their  ratchet  wheel  s,  being  turned  by  the 
driver,  d.* 

The  selvages  of  the  net  are  formed  by  strong  warp  threads, 
stretched  tight,  provided  by  a  roller,  distinct  from  the  warp  roller. 
In  applying  these  improvements  to  circular  comb  machinery,  the 
front  comb  bar  is  kept  stationary,  and  its  racking  wheel  is  removed. 
The  points  are  also  doubled  in  this  machine,  being  changed  from 
ten  points  to  twenty  points  per  inch.  The  racking  wheels  are 
changed  for  new  ones, — one  having  eight  different  projections,  and 
the  other  five,  which  are  turned  by  a  ratchet  wheel  of  twelve  teeth. 

We  are  informed  by  Mr,  Crofts  that  this  kind  of  lace-net  (see 
Fig.  141)  will  be  of  a  nmch  more  simple  texture  than  ordinary 
bobbin-net,  being  without  traversing  threads,  and  therefore  can  be 
made  more  expeditiously. 

Having  given  the  reader  a  faithful  description  (a  practical  one) 
of  Mr.  Crofts'  improvements  in  lace  machines  in  general,  and 
illustrated  the  same  by  suitable  engravings,  etc.  we  pass  on  to 
describe  a  few  improvements  of  quite  a  different  character,  made 
by  our  ingenious  and  worthy  friend,  John  Heathcoate  Esq.,  of 
Tiverton.  The  first  of  these  inventions  consists  in  a  new  mode 
of  manufacturing  bobbin  net-lace,  by  inserting  sewing  thread 
between  the  breadths  of  lace,  during  the  fabrication  and  finishing 
of  it.  In  this  improved  mode,  the  lacing  thread  passes  in  front  of 
the  warp-thread  that  forms  the  selvage,  and  behind  the  two 
bobbin  threads  which  compose  the  meshes  of  the  lace,  and  then  re- 
passes in  front  of  the  warp-thread  to  the  adjoining  breadth,  on 
which  it  acts  in  a  similar  manner.  Another  part  of  the  improved 
mode,  consists  in  ornamenting  the  lace,  by  passing  the  lacing  thread 
round  the  two  bobbin  threads,   composing  the  top  of  the  meshes. 

Fig.  142  represents,  in  section,  the  principal  working  parts  of 
this  machine,  rf,  d,  are  the  points;  /,/,  the  lockers;  ^,  ^,  the 
driving  bars  ;  c,  c,  the  combs  ;  e,  the  lace  roller ;  a,  the  warp  roller ; 
h,  b,  are  the  ordinary  guide  bars,  with  their  guides. 

The  selvage  threads  are  supplied  froiu  the  roller  A,  one  row  of 
threads  passing  through  the  ordinary  guides  on  the  common 
guide  bar  /t,  and  the  other  row  through  the  guide  6,  which  is  at- 
tached to  the  guide  bar  h.  The  ordinary  warp-threads  proceed 
from  the  roller  a,  through  the  guides  on  the  guide-bar  b.  The  bar 
E,  is  called  the  "poppet  bar,''  and  has  a  vertical  movement,  for 
the  purpose  of  stopping  the  turn-again  carriages,  by  means  of  suit- 
able catches  on  its  upper  end.     The  parts  by  which  these  improve- 


292 


THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 
Fig.  142. 


ments  are  effected  are  the  guide  D,  and  the  lacing  thread  roller  C. 
The  guide  D  has  a  separate  racking  movement  from  the  other 
guides.  The  improvement  in  this  part  of  Mr.  H's  invention  con- 
sists in  the  mode  of  inserting  the  lacing  thread,  by  passing  it  across 
the  warp-threads  and  behind  the  bobbin  threads  :  and  likewise  the 
mode  of  ornamenting  the  lace,  by  passing  the  lacing  threads  round 
the  bobbin  threads,  whicli  compose  the  top  of  the  meshes. 

The  second  part  of  this  gentleman's  improvements,  in  lace  ma- 
chinery &c.,  wliich  we  shall  now  endeavour  to  explain,  consists 
in  a  method  of  manufacturing  ornamental  work  or  figures  composed 


LACE    MANUFACTURE. 


29a 


of  edgings,  neiges,  tattings,  or  narrow  stripes,  of  gauze  or  of  any- 
other  suitable  fabric,  so  as  to  assume  new  forms  and  shapes,  by- 
being  put  upon  pins,  arranged  to  receivethe  same,  in  curves,  angles, 
circles,  or  other  figures. 

The  indentation  required  for  producing  one  pattern,  and  the  form 
which  is  given  to  the  edgings  in  that  particular  design,  by  putting 
them  on  pins,  as  shown  at  Fig.  144,  will  sufficiently  illustrate  the 
nature  of  the  invention  ;  and  it  will  be  evident,  that  by  varying 
the  forms  of  arrangement  of  the  pins,  with  corresponding  or  suit- 
table  indentations  or  spaces  in  the  edgings,  varieties  of  figures  or 
patterns  may  be  produced. 

The  third  part  of  Mr.  H's  inventions  consists  in  certain  machinery, 
tools,  implements,  or  apparatus,  to  be  used  in  applying  such  orna- 
ments, ornamental  work  or  figures. 

X    Fig.  143. 

B  of 


Fig.  143  represents  a  side  view  or  elevation  of  the  machme, 
composed  of  the  large  cylinder  A,  and  the  small  cylinder  B,  and 
their  accessories,  mounted  upon  a  frame  C.     The  rim  of  the  large 


294  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

cylinder  is  pierced  with  holes,  to  receive  the  pins  a,  a,  (see  Fig.  145 
and  146  ;)  which  holes  are  made  in  curves,  or  other  figures,  ac- 
cording to  the  pattern  or  design  intended  to  be  produced,  as  will  be 
seen  more  clearly  in  the  plan.  Fig.  144.  Tliese  pins  are  sustained 
by  a  curved  plate  D.  (see  Fig.  143  and  145.)  supported  from  the 
axis  of  the  cylinder  A.  within  or  underneath  the  upper  portion  of 
the  cyhuder  rim  A  :  which  plate  is  so  shaped  and  kept  stationary 
by  the  brace  e,  as  to  aUow  the  pins  to  be  pressed  back  within  the 
perforated  cylinder  A.  as  they  are  successively  brought  in  contact 
with  the  small  cylinder  B  ;  by  which  means  the  borders,  sprigs,  or 
other  figures,  are  liberated  from  the  pins.  As  the  cylinder  A  re- 
volves, the  pins  a.  a.  descend  by  their  own  weight,  whereby  the  points 
again  project  from  the  cylinder  A,  and  are  kept  by  the  curved 
plate  D.  in  that  position,  as  they  move  in  succession  towards  the 
upper  part  of  the  circle,  as  wlQ  be  best  seen  detached  at  Fig. 
145. 

Upon  these  pins,  the  edgings  or  other  texture,  (which  may  be 
conveniently  supplied  from  the  bobbins  1 1.)  is  put,  and  the  re- 
volving of  the  cylinder  A,  carries  it  forward  towards  the  cylinder 
B,  which,  on  its  part,  draws  oflT  the  lace-net,  or  other  fabric,  from 
the  roller  H.  and  bears  it  on  the  upper  part  of  its  surface  towards  the 
cylinder  A. 

The  surfaces  of  these  two  cylinders,  A  and  B.  being  moved 
simultaneously  and  equally,  (by  means  of  the  wheels,  upon  their 
respective  axis,  working  into  each  other.)  the  net  and  the  edging  or 
border  are  brought  together,  and  pressed  closely  between  them  : 
over  the  small  cylinder  B,  the  sizing  roller  E  (see  Fig.  143)  is  made 
to  press  upon  the  net,  the  surface  of  the  roller  being  formed  accord- 
ing to  the  figure  which  the  edging  assumes  upon  the  cylinder  A. 
(See  a  sample  of  edging  on  the  cylinder  A,  at  Fig.  144.) 

The  cement  is  applied  to  the  net  only  where  the  edging  wUl  come 
upon  it  when  the  pressure,  just  alluded  to,  causes  the  edging  to  ad- 
here to  the  sized  net.  The  roller  E.  is  supplied  with  size  or  cement 
by  a  small  roller  F  (see  Fig.  144)  the  under  surface  of  which  dips 
into  the  trough  containing  the  same  (as  in  sizing  warps  for  power 
looms  ;  and  as  the  rollers  E  and  F,  by  the  wheels  upon  their  res- 
pective axis  are  connected,  and  in  due  proportion  with  the  cylinders 
A,  and  B,  a  proper  supply  of  size  is  in  succession  applied  to  those 
parts  of  the  net,  or  other  fabric,  intended  to  receive  the  ornamented 
border  or  pattern. 

The  surface  of  the  roller  E.  must,  of  course,  be  covered  with 
woollen  cloth,  or  other  suitable  elastic  substance,  which  will  yield  to 


LACE    MANUFACTURE.  295 

any  inequality  of  the  material  passing  under  it.  G,  is  a  cylinder 
to  receive  the  lace  ;  it  is  moved  by  a  band  or  belt  L,  passing  over 
the  cylinder  B,  which  it  causes  to  draw  the  lace  therefrom,  and  to 
overcome  any  tendency  which  it  may  have  to  adhere  to  the  cylin- 
der B.  But  to  prevent  the  lace  from  being  stretched  or  elongated, 
and  also  the  better  to  separate  it  from  the  cylinder  B,  a  number  of 
silk  threads  Q,  are  passed  over  the  cylinder  B,  as  shown  at  Figs. 
143  and  144.  These  threads  effectually  strip  the  net  or  lace  from 
the  cylinder,  and  continue  in  contact  with  it  until  the  whole  opera- 
tion is  completed,  and  are  not  separated  from  it  until  the  lace  is 
taken  from  the  cylinder  G.  Wet  spunges  6,  6,  (see  Fig.  143)  are 
made  to  press  against  the  left  hand  side  of  each  of  the  cylinders  A, 
and  B,  to  take  oft'  any  size  which  may  adhere  to  them.  Motion  is 
given  to  the  cylinder  B,  (which  by  the  train  of  wheels  and  the  band 
or  belt  L,  communicates  it  to  the  other  cylinders  and  the  roller.)  by 
a  treadle  M,  acting  upon  the  ratchet-wheel,  fixed  upon  its  axis  N, 
or  by  any  other  suitable  contrivance,  e,  e,  is  a  spring  governed 
by  a  set  screw  (see  Fig.  143)  which,  by  its  action  against  the  bear- 
ing of  the  cylinder  A,  regulates  the  pressure  upon  the  net  and  bor- 
der between  the  two  cylinders  A  and  B. 

The  trough  which  contains  the  size  or  cement,  is  regulated,  so  as 
to  allow  a  proper  quantity  to  adhere  to  the  surface  of  the  roller  F, 
the  excess  being  retained  by  the  contact  or  pressure  of  the  side  of 
the  trough  against  it ;  which,  of  course,  is  well  understood. 

The  net  or  other  fabric,  destined,  to  receive  the  border,  is  to  be 
passed  alternately  under  and  over  the  wires  d,  in  order  to  keep  it 
flat  and  moderately  tight.  Tension  cords  O,  and  weights  P,  are 
Ukewise  applied  to  the  bobbin  K,  and  cylinder  G,  so  as  to  give  the 
required  tension  to  the  silk  threads  Q.  (see  Figs.  143  and  144)  and 
finished  work. 

For  the  purpose  of  better  exhibiting  the  several  parts  of  the  ap- 
paratus, we  have  left  out  the  work  altogether  in  the  plan,  Fig.  144. 

It  may  be  useful  to  add,  that  the  wet  spunges  6,6,  may  be  advan- 
tageously applied  to  the  surfaces  of  the  cylinders  A,  and  B,  by  the 
pressure  of  levers  and  springs. 

By  the  terra  edgings,  is  meant,  any  suitable  stripes  of  woven  or 
manufactured  texture,  proper  for  being  formed  into  figures  or  pat- 
terns ;  and  the  term  borders,  is  meant  to  designate  such  edgings, 
formed  into  designs  and  attached  to  net,  muslin,  or  other  suitable 
texture. 

We   have,    for   the   sake   of  more    clearly   describing  this    pro- 


296  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

cess  or  manufacture,  sho\\'Ti  an  uninterrupted  succession  of  pattern 
or  design,  or  borders ;  but,  it  is  evident,  that  if  alternate  intervals 
or  spaces  were  left  between  portions  of  pattern,  detached  oljjects  of 
the  nature  of  sprigs,  groups,  or  boquets,  may  be  produced,  according 
to  the  taste  of  the  designer,  and  the  consequent  arrangement  of  the 
pins  a,  a,  and  the  roller  E,  by  which  the  gum  or  size  is  applied  to 
the  net. 

If  the  object  be  to  produce  imitation  of  Brussels  lace,  or  Honi- 
to7i  sprigs,  the  edging  must  be  made  of  such  forms  and  materials 
as  will,  when  formed  and  pressed  into  the  proper  shapes,  most 
nearly  resemble  the  work  made  by  the  hand  with  the  bobbins  or 
needles ;  and  the  method  of  sewing  them  to  the  net,  which  is  prac- 
tised with  regard  to  the  Brussels  and  Honiton  sprigs  may  be  adopt- 
ed ;  and  also  in  imitation  of  Chantilly  and  other  blonde  laces,  in 
case  it  should  be  deemed  necessary. 

The  pins  a,  a,  (one  of  which  is  shown  enlarged,  at  Fig.  146)  are 
suitable  where  the  edgings  have  holes  or  open  places,  by  which  it 
can  be  readily  put  upon  them ;  but  in  case  the  edging  is  of  a  close 
texture,  the  pins  must  be  smaller.  The  size  or  cement  may  be 
made  of  various  kinds  of  gum,  or  other  adhesive  matters.  Gum- 
arabic,  dissolved  in  water,  and  of  the  consistence  of  thick  cream  will 
answer  the  purpose  very  well. 

We  shall  now  conclude  this  part  of  our  subject,  by  laying  before 
our  readers  a  copy  of  a  letter,  containing  an  account  of  the  speci- 
men of  ancient  Egyptian  lace  or  net,  to  which  we  alluded  in  the  in- 
troductory part  of  this  Work.     (See  pages  46  and  47.) 

A  representation  of  this  specimen  is  given  at  Fig.  147  ;  which 
we  think  demonstrates,  beyond  the  possibility  of  a  doubt,  that  the 
lace  machinery  used  by  the  ancient  Egyptians,  must  have  been 
brought  to  great  perfection  indeed,  before  such  a  fabric  could  have 
been  produced.  But  the  following  letter,  from  Mr.  Kersivenus,  will 
convey  a  better  idea  of  the  subject  than  anything  we  can  say. 

Thehes,  October  17th,  1843. 
Dear  Friend, 
Your  favour  of  the  19th  May  last,  was  handed  to  me  last  even- 
ing, by  our  worthy  friend   Amasis    Osirtasen,    who   arrived   here 
yesterday  morning,  on  business  of  importance  for  his  Majesty. 

With  regard  to  what  you  say  about  the  sample  of  lace  or  net,  it 
is  lucky  indeed,  that  your  letter  reached  me  in  this  place  ;  be- 
cause I  am  thus  enabled  to  furnish  you  with  a  drawing  of  it,  and 


LACE  manufacturl:. 

Fig.  147. 


297 


also  some  explanation,  more  easily  than  I  could  otherwise  have 
done. 

On  receipt  of  your  letter,  I  lost  no  time  in  calling  upon  our 
esteemed  acquaintance,  Lepsius,,  who  very  fortunately  happens  to 
be  here  at  present ;  and  after  mentioning  to  this  scientific  gentle- 
man tlie  object  of  your  letter,  he  at  once  consented  to  aid  me  in 
searching  for  the  sample,  as  he  says,  that  he  feels  interested  in  your 
success,  and  has  done  so,  ever  since  he  first  saw  you  in  Berlin, 
while  you  were  there  in  1S33,  obtaining  a  patent  from  the  Prussian 
Government,  for  a  carpet  power  loom,  with  wdiat  the  Doctor  calls, 
"  lunar  detached  revolving  shuttle  boxes.''^ 

We  proceeded  this  morning,  a  few  minutes  before  sunrise,  at 
which  time  we  commenced  our  search  ;  and  we  continued  it  with- 
out intermission  until  10^  o'clock  A,  M.  ;  at  which  time  we  had 
given  up  nearly  all  hopes  of  success  ;  and,  in  fact,  were  just  at  the 
point  of  leaving  tlie  scene  of  investigation,  when  fortunately  the 
Doctor's  eve  (which  you  know  is  always  on  the  sharp  look-out) 

3S 


298  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

caught  a  glimpse,  while  looking  over  my  shoulder,  of  the  very 
identical  object  of  which  we  were  in  search.  You  may  guess  how 
overjoyed  the  Dr.  and  I  became  on  making  this  re-discovery,*  not 
only  for  your  sake  and  for  that  of  your  country,  but  also  for  the 
interest  of  science,  which  you  are  aware  is  always  a  favourite  hobby 
with  the  Doctor.  We  proceeded  forthwith  to  make  the  necessary 
drawing  ;  and,  although  the  sample  has  become  much  obhterated 
from  age,  yet,  with  the  help  of  the  Dr's.  excellent  triple  lenses  (which 
you  know  possess  most  awful  powers  of  penetration)  I  have  been 
enabled  to  make  a  tolerably  correct  outline,  and,  in  fact,  as  a  whole, 
not  a  bad  drawing. 

You  will  not  fail  to  perceive,  that  the  part  of  the  sample  marked 
A  A  in  the  figure,  differs  very  materially  from  tliat  shown  at  B  B  ; 
and  although  this  feature  appeared  to  me,  at  first  sight,  as  quite  a 
simple  circumstance,  our  learned  friend,  who  is  deeply  skilled  in  the 
mysterious  art  of  weaving,  is  of  opinion  that  no  machinery  at  pre- 
sent used  in  the  lace  manufacture  is  at  all  capable  of  producing 
the  same  effect :  he,  therefore,  concludes,  that  some  very  ingenious 
piece  of  mechanism,  unknown  to  moderns,  must  have  been  em- 
ployed in  the  manufacture  of  this  specimen.  It  will  be  seen,  on 
close  examination,  that  the  same  threads  which  form  the  weft  in 
the  part  A  A.  constitute  the  warp  at  B  B  :  this  actually  puzzles  the 
Doctor,  and  is,  no  doubt,  worthy  of  your  attention  as  a  practical 
weaver  and  manufacturer. 

Lepsius  tells  me,  that  each  thread  of  the  net,  altliough  fine  of 
itself,  was  composed  of  598t  other  threads,  all  distinct ;  the  quality 
of  the  fabric  being  similar  to  that  of  the  corslet  dedicated  to  Minerva, 
at  Lindus,  by  Amasis,  King  of  Egypt.  This  explanation,  he  was 
enabled  to  decipher,  by  the  aid  of  one  of  his  best  glasses,  from  a 
few  obliterated  characters  :  which,  on  the  closest  examination  with 
the  naked  eye,  I  was  unable  to  perceive ! 

The  Doctor  entertains  strong  hopes  of  becoming,  in  the  course 


*  It  appears  that  Mr.  Kersivenus  saw  this  specimen  while  at  Thebes,  in  ihe 
month  of  March  1835,  and  of  which  circumstance  he  at  that  time  made  men- 
tion to  us  in  a  letter ;  but  being  hurriedly  called  away,  on  business  of  impor- 
tance, he  lost  all  recollection  of  the  occurrence. 

t  Sir  Gardiner  Wilkinson,  in  his  interesting  work,  entitled,  "  Manners  and 
Customs  of  the  Ancient  Egyptians,"  gives  us  an  account  of  a  corslet,  oflinen, 
ornamented  with  numerous  figures  of  animals,  worked  in  gold  and  cotton. 
Each  thread  of  the  corslet  was  worthy  of  admiration  ;  for  though  very  fine, 
every  one  was  composed  of  360  other  threads,  all  perfectly  distinct.  See  vol. 
Ill,  page  127. 


LACE    MANUFACTURE.  299 

of  a  short  time,  possessed  of  the  machinery  by  which  nets  of  the 
kind  here  represented  were  manufactured  ;  and,  judging  from 
the  rate  at  which  excavations  are  progressing,  at  present,  in 
this  neighbourhood,  I,  myself  have  httle  doubt  that  his  most  san- 
guine expectations  will  be  reaUzed.  No  farther  back  than  yesterday, 
about  5^  o'clock  P.  M.,  some  of  his  workmen  dug  up  an  electrical 
machine,  bearing  the  name  of  that  ingenious  but  ancient  indivi- 
dual, Tubal-cain  ;  and  this  instrument  according  to  the  Doctor's 
statement,  is  the  only  thing  of  the  kind  preserved  from  the  wreck 
of  the  anti-diluvian  world,  Shem,  (the  first  son  of  Noah,)  having 
taken  it  with  him  into  the  Ark  ! 

Lepsius  employs,  in  these  excavating  operations,  a  kind  of  peo- 
ple called  "  Irishmen,^'  and  from  what  I  can  learn  regarding  them, 
they  are  famous  for  making  headway  in  this  kind  of  work  :  each 
one,  of  whom,  I  am  sure,  is  at  least  worth  eleven  of  my  own  coun- 
trymen.* 

And  now.  Dear  Friend,  while  owls  by  night,  with  mournful 
scream,  rouse  echo  from  her  idiot  dream,  may  I  your  humble  ser- 
vant be, 

ALEXIS  KERSIVENUS, 
Civil  Engineer, 
Homeopathic  Physician,  &c. 

P.  S.  My  family  are  all  well.  Cleopatra  sends  you  her  love,  and 
three  *  #  *  #  *  i 


EMBROIDERY. 

"  Here  the  needle  plies  its  busy  task, 

The  pattern  grows ;  the  well-depicted  flower, 

Wrought  patiently  into  the  snowy  lawn, 

Unfolds  its  blossom ;  buds,  and  leaves,  and  sprigs, 

And  curling  tendrils,  gracefully  dispos'd, 

Follow  the  nimble  finger  of  the  fair : 

A  wreath,  that  cannot  fade,  of  flowers  that  blow 

With  most  success  when  all  besides  decay." — Cowper. 

Embroidery  is  the  art  of  adding  to  the  surface  of  woven  tex- 
tures, a  representation  of  any  object  we  wish  to  depict,  through  the 
medium  of  the  needle,  threaded  with  the  material  in  which  the 

*  It  may  be  well  to  state  that  Mr.  Kersivenus  is  an  Egyptian  by  birth ;  but 
received  his  professional  instruction  in  France ;  where  we  first  had  the  plezt- 
6ure  of  forming  an  acquaintanceship  with  him. 


300  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

work  is  to  be  executed.  This  may  be  effected  by  various  methods, 
and  on  most  descriptions  of  fabrics. 

Our  object  at  present  is,  not  to  enter  into  a  general  description  of 
the  diflerent  articles  used  by  ladies  for  the  purposes  of  needle-work, 
nor  the  methods  of  applying  them.  Indeed,  the  fair  sex  cannot 
expect  from  us  any  practical  information  upon  such  subjects  as, 
ferti-stitch,  finny-stitch,  old-stitch,  neic-stitch,  chain-stitch,  braid- 
stitch,  queen-stitch,  Spanish-stitch,  rosemary-stitch,  uhip-stitch, 
back-stitch,  side-stitch,  Galway-stitch,  Kilkenny-stitcli,  Limerick- 
stitch,  and  Tijjperary-stitcJi,  we  shall  therefore,  confine  ourself 
to  giving  our  readers  a  brief  historical  account  of  the  art ;  and  a 
description  of  the  application  of  machiner}^  to  it,  as  successfully 
accomplished  by  the  ingenious  M.  Josue  Heilmann,  of  Mulhausen, 
France.* 

We  are  indebted  to  the  luxury  and  magnificence  of  the  nations 
of  the  East,  for  the  invention  of  embroidery, — an  art  that  has  not 
inaptly  been  termed  the  mother  of  painting,  its  discovery  claiming 
the  priority  by  many  centuries.  In  more  modern  times,  it  has  been 
called  the  humble  sister  of  the  latter  art ;  and  the  aim  of  the 
needlewoman  has  been  to  imitate,  as  closely  as  possible,  the  pro- 
ductions of  the  pencil,  a  labour  in  which  she  has  been  assisted  by 
some  of  the  most  celebrated  masters,  many  of  whose  chef-d'oeuvres 
have  been  executed  for  the  express  purpose  of  being  copied  in  nee- 
dlework or  tapestry. 

The  Greeks  gave  the  honour  of  the  invention  of  embroidery  to 
Minerva :  by  Pliny  it  has  been  assigned  to  the  Phrygians :  hence 
he  says  the  Romans  called  embroiderers  '■'  PhrygionesT  and  em- 
broidered garments,  ^^  vestes  Phiygionice^  The  women  of  Sidon, 
before  the  Trojan  war,  were  especially  celebrated  for  their  skill  in 
this  art:  and  Homer  mentions  Helen  as  being  engaged  in  embroi- 
dering the  combats  of  the  Greeks  and  Trojans : 

'•  An  ample  web  magnificent  she  wove, 
Inwrought  with  num'rous  conflicts  for  her  sake, 
Beneath  the  hand  of  Mars  endured  by  Greeks." 

Andromache  also — 

"  She  in  her  chamber  at  the  palace  top, 

A  splendid  texture  -wrought,  on  either  side 

All  dazzling  bright  with  flowers  of  various  hues." 

*  Those  of  our  readers  who  wish  to  obtain  a  knowledge  of  this  art,  as 
practised  by  ladies,  are  referred  to  Miss  Lambert's  excellent  "  Hand-Book  of 
Needlework." 


EMBROIDERY.  301 

The  art  of  embroidery  was  greatly  practised  among  the  ancient 
Egyptians  ;  even  the  sails  of  some  of  their  ships  were  wrought  with 
fanciful  devices,  representing  the  phenix,  flowers,  and  various  em- 
blems.* In  the  time  of  Moses,  Aholiab,  the  son  of  Ahisamach,  of 
the  tribe  of  Dan,  was  celebrated  as  '•'  a  cunning  workman,"  and  as 
an  embroiderer  in  blue,  in  purple,  in  scarlet,  and  in  fine  linen. t 
The  curtains  and  ornaments  of  the  Tabernacle,  and  the  vestments 
of  the  priests,  were  decorated  with  embroidery.  The  prophet  Eze- 
kiel,  reproaching  the  women  of  Israel  with  having  abused  the  bene- 
fits of  Providence,  after  mentioning  their  bracelets  and  ciiains, 
jewels  for  their  foreheads,  and  earrings,  and  their  crowns,  still  far- 
ther names  their  robes,  dyed  and  embroidered  of  divers  colours.t 
Attains,  king  of  Pergamus,  is  said  by  Pliny,  to  have  invented  the 
art  of  embroidery  with  gold  thread. 

According  to  Diodorus  Siculus,§  Zaleucus,  a  disciple  of  Pytha- 
goras, and  a  lawgiver  of  the  Locrians,  forbade  the  use  of  embroi- 
dery, except  to  courtesans :  and  Dionysius  Halicarnassusll  informs 
us,  that  Tarquinius  Priscus,  who  first  distinguished  the  monarch 
and  senators  by  particular  robes  and  ornaments,  was  the  first 
Roman  king  who  wore  an  embroidered  garment. 

The  term  embroidery,  as  employed  in  the  writings  of  the  ancient 
historians,  has  reference  to  all  kinds  of  ornamental  work  done  with 
the  needle ;  thus  comprehending  within  its  meaning  every  descrip- 
tion of  decorative  needlework,  including  tapestry  and  some  descrip- 
tions of  weaving.  At  the  present  day,  the  term  is  much  more  hm- 
ited.  relating  to  one  kind  of  needlework  only,  which,  however,  em- 
braces an  almost  innumerable  variety,  both  as  to  the  materials 
employed,  and  the  mode  of  using  them.  In  the  extended  meaning 
of  the  term,  therefore,  nations  and  savage  tribes  unknown  to  the 
ancients,  may  equally  claim  the  honour  of  a  similar  invention,  as 
most  of  them  have  a  species  of  embroidery  peculiarly  their  own.l^ 

*  Cloth,  of  embroidered  linen,  appears  to  have  been  made  in  Egypt  ex- 
pressly for  sails,  and  was  bought  by  the  Tyrians  for  that  purpose  (Ezekiel 
xxvii.  7,)  but  its  use  was  confined  to  the  pleasure  boats  of  the  nobles,  or  of 
the  king  himself;  ordinary  sails  being  white.  We  are  informed  by  Pliny 
(lib.  XXX.  c.  1.)  that  the  ship  in  which  Antony  and  Cleopatra  went  to  the  bat- 
tle of  Actium  was  distinguished  from  the  rest  of  the  fleet  by  its  purple  sails, 
which  were  the  peculiar  privilege  of  the  Admiral's  vessel. 

t  Exod.  XXV.  35.      t  Exekiel  xvi.  13.        ^i  Lib.  iii.  c.  G2.     ||  Lib.  xii.  p.  299. 

IF  The  word  embroidery  is  derived  from  the  French  broderie  which  some 
deduce  by  transposition  from  bordeur,  because  they  formerly  only  embroidered 
the  borders  of  their  stuffs,  whence  the  Latins  sometimes  called  embroiderers 


302  THE    ART    OP    WEAVING. 

The  Chinese  have  long  been  celebrated  for  the  beauty  of  their 
embroideries ;  indeed,  it  has  been  doubted  whether  the  art  was  not 
originally  brought  into  Europe  from  them,  through  the  Persians. 
They  use  floss  and  twisted  silks,  also  the  bark  of  a  tree  spun  into 
a  fine  thread.*  The  drawing  of  their  embroideries  is  sometimes  as 
uncouth  as  that  of  their  paintings,  but  in  that  of  some  of  their 
flowers  (doubtless  copied  from  nature)  they  are  frequently  even 
botanically  correct ;  and  their  works  are  not  more  to  be  admired 
for  their  remarkable  freshness  than  for  the  extreme  labour  bestowed 
upon  them.  Success,  as  gained  by  patient  application,  is  nowhere 
so  frequently  exemplified  as  in  China.  The  mere  accomphshment 
of  writing  a  good  style,  is  the  result  only  of  many  tedious  years  of 
study  and  self-denial.  The  beauty  of  the  written  character,  the 
finished  graces  of  their  composition  the  excellence  of  their  silk 
manufactures  and  embroidery,  the  wonders  of  their  porcelain,  and 
many  other  marvels  in  art  and  knowledge,  are  the  natural  results 
of  untiring  industry  and  perseverance.  A  Chinese  uses  no  short 
cuts,  resorts  to  no  compendious  methods  for  abridging  labour : — 
he  is  not  without  ingenious  resources  to  accomphsh  an  end,  but  his 
aim  does  not  seem  to  be  to  save  time. 

We  are  indebted  to  Mr.  Tradescant  Lay  for  the  following  inter- 
esting account  of  the  art  of  embroidery  as  at  present  practised  by 
the  Chinese.  "  For  twenty-two  cash  or  tseen,"  he  says,  "  I  pur- 
chased an  elegant  book,  filled  with  choice  subjects  of  the  graphic 
art,  as  patterns  for  the  use  of  the  young  needlewoman.  She  is  as- 
sumed to  be  poor,  and  hence  the  little  manual  is  priced  at  about  one 
penny  of  our  money.  It  has  a  cover  of  a  fair  yellow,  studded  with 
spangles  of  gold,  and  contains  between  two  and  tliree  hundred  fig- 
ures, culled  from  the  varied  stores  of  nature  and  art.  In  fact,  the 
objects  are  so  well  selected  and  so  numerous,  that  they  might  serve 
as  illustrations  to  a  small  encyclopedia.  One  acquainted  with 
Chinese  literature  and  natural  history,  might  deliver  several  lectures 
with  this  book  before  him.  The  meadow,  the  grove,  the  brook,  the 
antiquary's  museum,  and  the  pages  of  mythology  with  the  adorn- 
ments of  the  house  and  garden,  are  all  laid  under  contribution. 


liwJbularii.  According  to  Du  Cange,  they  anciently  wrote  aurobrustus,  for 
embroidered  with  gold,  or  brustiis  brodatus,  whence  the  French  word  bro- 
derie. 

*  The  fine  niusHns  made  at  Manilla.  Avith  threads  spun  from  the  pine-apple 
plant,  and  afterwards  so  richly  and  delicately  embroidered  with  the  same  ma- 
.terial,  are  well  known. 


EMBROIDERY.  303 

The  book  is  said  to  be  for  the  use  of  the  person  who  belongs  to  the 
green  window,  which  is  an  epithet  for  the  dwelling  of  a  poor  wo- 
man :  while  the  red  gallery  denotes  the  residence  of  a  rich  female. 
The  industrious  poor  plies  her  task  near  the  green  lattice,  which  is 
made  of  earthenware,  and  lets  in  both  the  light  and  the  breath  of 
heaven ;  while  the  rich  dame  leans  upon  the  verniil-tinted  balus- 
ters of  the  gaudy  verandah,  and  gazes  carelessly  at  the  sunbeams 
as  they  sparkle  among  the  flowers  or  woos  the  soft  breeze  which 
agitates  the  green  roof  of  the  Indian  fig-tree.  The  title-page 
presents  us  with  a  venerable  man,  in  the  weeds  of  office,  holding 
iahis  hand  a  scroll  with  this  motto,  'Heaven's  magistrate  confers 
wealth.'  Over  his  head  are  bats  disporting  among  the  clouds  ;  the 
emblems,  I  suppose,  of  wakefulness,  for  these  animals  are  on  the 
alert,  while  men  sleep.  '  Her  candle  goeth  not  out  by  night,'  is  what 
Solomon  tells  us  of  the  needle  woman,  whom  he  eulogizes  in  the 
last  chapter  of  Proverbs.  I  once  saw  two  girls  at  this  work  in  the 
village  of  Mongha.  They  were  seated  upon  a  low  stool,  and 
extended  their  legs  across  another  of  twice  the  height  of  their  seat. 
In  this  way  a  support  was  provided  for  the  frame  on  which  the 
piece  to  be  embroidered  was  spread  forth.  Their  faces  wore  a  sickly 
hue,  which  was  owing,  perhaps,  to  close  confinement  and  the  un- 
natural position  in  which  they  were  obliged  to  sit.  The  finest 
specimens  of  embroidery  are,  as  far  as  my  observation  goes,  done 
by  men,  who  stand  while  at  work — a  practice  which  these  damsels 
could  not  imitate,  as  their'  feet  were  small.  They  were  poor,  but 
too  genteel,  in  their  parents'  idea,  to  do  the  drudgery  of  the  humble 
housewife,  and  so  their  feet  were  bandaged  and  kept  from  growing 
beyond  the  limits  of  gentility.  Their  looks  were  not  likely  soon  to 
attract  a  lover,  and  hence  they  were  compelled  to  tease  the  sampler 
from  the  glistening  dawn  till  the  dewy  eve.  Much  skill  and  labour 
are  bestowed  on  the  embroidery  of  a  plaited  skirt  ^vorn  by  ladies, 
which,  with  my  partiality  for  what  is  Chinese,  I  think  without  a 
rival  for  beauty  as  an  article  of  female  attire.  In  the  little  work 
before  me,  several  patterns  are  given  expressly  for  this  purpose.  A 
curious  purse  worn  in  the  girdle  of  Chinese  gentlemen,  is  also  the 
subject  of  much  of  this  kind  of  elaboration.  Embroidery  and 
figured  textures  were  generally  in  favour  with  the  ancients,  so  that 
the  discovery  was  thought  worthy  of  a  superior  agency.  In  the 
Old  Testament  we  have  two  kinds,  the  maase  rokem,  (opus  phry- 
gionic7im,)  in  which  the  figures  were  inserted  by  the  needle ;  and 
the  maase  choseb,  (opus  plimiarium,)  in  which  they  were 
wrought  in  the  weft.     The  Chinese  are  fond  of  retainins:  what  is 


304  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

old,  and  have  preserved  both  these  arts  in  their  highest  state  of  per- 
fection." 

The  beautiful  embroideries  on  muslin,  with  cotton,  by  the  Indian 
and  Candian  women,  are  well  known.  The  embroidery  practised 
by  the  latter  is  curious  enough  :  they  work  with  their  own  hair, 
as  well  as  that  of  animals,  with  which  they  make  splendid  repre- 
sentations of  flowers,  foliage,  &c.  :  they  also  insert  the  skins  of 
eels,  sea  serpents,  banshees,  mermaids,  and  other  outlandish  kinds 
of  fish. 

According  to  M.  de  Busson,  the  negresses  of  Senegal,  before  their 
marriage,  embroider  the  skins  of  various  beasts,  representing  figures, 
flowers,  and  animals,  in  every  variety  of  colour  ;  and  the  pictures 
thus  formed,  they  present  as  trophies  of  their  skill  to  their  husbands, 
on  the  morning  (before  sunrise)  of  the  ninth  day  after  marriage  : 
this  curious  custom  appears  to  be  almost  universal  among  the  loioer 
orders,  but  it  is  not  so  prevalent  in  the  refined  circles. 

The  Georgians  and  particularly  the  Turkish  women,  are  renowned 
for  their  embroideries  on  tlie  lightest  and  most  delicate  materials, 
such  as  crape  and  gauze,  which  they  ornament  with  gold  thread 
in  a  manner  unequalled.  Their  embroideries  on  morocco  leather 
have  long  been  esteemed,  on  which  they  work  the  smallest  objects 
in  gold  passing,  without  fraying  the  thread,  in  a  way  we  cannot 
imitate.  According  to  M.  Savary,  they  formerly  often  ornamented 
their  embroidery  with  pieces  of  money,  the  value  of  which  they 
did  not  appear  to  understand  ;  a  circumstance,  however,  which  the 
Genoese  merchants,  who  had  a  considerable  trade  in  the  Levant, 
turned  greatly  to  their  advantage,  as  valuable  and  interesting  coins 
and  medals  were  frequently  found  in  the  old  garments  in  which 
they  sometimes  trafficked.  Besides  the  Tinks,  the  Greek  women 
of  the  present  day,  and  the  inhabitants  of  the  islands  of  the  Levant, 
are  still  celebrated  for  their  embroidery,  principally  of  gold  and 
silver.  The  women  of  Therapia  on  the  Bosphorus  excel  in  a 
most  beautiful  description  of  work  ;  it  can  scarcely,  however,  be 
termed  embroidery,  being  rather  a  species  of  exquisitely  fine  netting. 
They  represent  flowers  in  relief,  every  petal  of  which  is  worked 
with  the  utmost  exactness.  These  extraordinary  productions  of  the 
needle,  unfortunately  but  little  known  in  this  country,  cannot 
be  suflficiently  admired  for  their  extreme  delicacy  and  elaborate- 
ness. 

In  the  last  and  preceding  centuries,  when  embroidery,  as  an  ar- 
ticle of  dress  both  for  men  and  women,  was  an  object  of  consider- 
able importance,  the  Germans,  but  more  particularly  those  of  Vienna, 


EMBROIDERY. 


305 


disputed  the  palm  of  excellence  with  the  Frencli.  At  the  same 
period,  Milan  and  Venice  were  also  celebrated  for  their  embroidery ; 
but  the  prices  were  so  extravagantly  high,  that  according  to  Laniarre, 
its  use  was  forbidden  by  sumptuary  laws. 

The  art  of  embroidery  seems  to  have  attained  a  higher  degree 
of  perfection  in  France,  than  in  any  other  country  ;— it  is  not, 
however,  so  much  practised  at  the  present  day.  Embroiderers  for- 
merly composed  a  great  portion  of  the  working  population  of  the 
largest  towns  ;  laws  were  specially  framed  for  their  protection,  some 
of  which  would  astonish  the  work-people  of  the  present  day.  They 
were  formed  into  a  company  as  early  as  1272,  by  Etienne  Boileau, 
Prevot  de  Paris,  under  their  respective  names  of  "  Brodeurs,  Decou- 
peurs,  Egratigneurs,  Chasubiters  ;"— their  last  statutes  were  framed 
in  1719. 

In  Saxony,  embroidery  on  fine  mushn  and  cambric  has  been 
carried  to  great  perfection.  In  the  neighbourhood  of  Ebenstock, 
and  the  Erzgebirge,  much  tambour  work  is  done  ;  this  is  general- 
ly sold  at  the  Leipzig  fairs,  where  it  is  bought  by  the  Russian  and 
West  Indian  merchants  ;  great  quantities  are  also  exported  to  Per- 
sia, At  Plauen,  in  the  same  neighbourhood  (celebrated  for  its 
manufactures  i»  hnen,  cotton,  and  mushn,)  much  figured  lace  is 
also  worked,  which  may  be  met  with  at  the  shops  in  Dresden. 
The  embroideries  of  Nancy  and  Paris  of  this  description,  have 
of  late  years  attamed  great  excellence,  and  are  much  sought 
after. 

Embroidery,  on  an  extensive  scale,  is  often  effected  in  the  Jacquard 
and  draw  looms.  In  such  cases,  front  heacUes  are  employed  ;  and 
two  beats  or  strokes  of  the  reed  are  given  to  each  thread  of  weft 
thrown  across  the  web.  When  there  are  several  colours  in  one 
line  of  the  pattern,  (as  in  Fig.  70,)  there  must  be  one  card  or  lash 
to  each,  to  enable  the  weaver  or  weavers  to  embroider  them,  one 
colour  after  another  ;  which  he  does  before  giving  the  two  ground 
beats  or  strokes  of  the  reed.  Embroidered  fabrics  for  covering  fur- 
niture, are  always  worked  with  front  headles,  for  the  purpose  of 
binding  the  embroidery,  and  the  threads  of  warp  which  pass 
through  these  headles  are  sometimes  taken  from  the  ground  warp, 
and  sometimes  from  an  extra  warp,  accordingly  as  it  happens  that 
the  embroidering  shades  are  the  same  as  those  of  the  ground  warp, 
or  different  from  them.  Small  shuttles  or  pirns  (sometimes  called 
circ/e5f)are  used  ;  a  correct  representation  of  one  of  which  is  given 
at  Fig.  136.  The  ground  headles  are  worked  for  the  ground  strokes, 
and  the  binding  headles  only  are  used  for  embroidering.     In  most 

39 


306  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

instances  the  weaver  works  the  ground  headles  with  his  right 
foot,  (as  in  damask  weaving,)  and  the  binding  headles  with  his 
left.  When  the  pattern  requires  a  great  variety  of  sliades  of  colour, 
the  workman  places  the  design  paper  before  him,  (as  in  Gobelins 
tapestry  weaving,)  so  as  to  see  distinctly  how  to  insert  them.  When 
there  is  any  gilding  of  gold  or  silver  used  in  embroidering,  (which 
is  often  the  case,)  the  cloth  must  be  carefully  rolled  in  paper,  as  fast 
as  woven,  to  prevent  the  gilding  from  injuring  the  cloth :  this  is 
effected  by  putting  clean  paper  between  the  cloth  and  the  roller  on 
which  it  is  wound.  Each  colour  in  the  pattern  requires  a  shuttle 
for  each  repeat  in  the  breadth  of  the  web,  so  that  the  whole  number 
of  shuttles  employed  is  often  very  considerable.  The  embroidering 
shuttle  or  pirn  is  generally  about  ]  g^  inches  in  diameter,  and  M,ths 
of  an  inch  thick,  with  a  hole  in  its  centre,  (as  in  Fig.  136,)  for  tlie 
carriage  pin  on  which  it  revolves,  as  fast  as  the  thread  is  wanted  : 
its  inside  is  hollowed  out  to  about  f  ths  of  its  whole  diameter  to  re- 
ceive the  warp.* 

It  would  have  been  supposed,  that  embroidery  could  never  have 
been  worked  with  profit  by  machinery ;  yet,  such  is  the  case.  But  a 
few  years  since,  M.  Josue  Heilmann,  of  Mulhausen,  France,  invented 
a  machine  by  which  a  female,  with  the  assistance  of  two  children, 
could  turn  off  daily  as  much  work  as  20  expert  hand  embroiderers, 
employed  upon  the  common  frame.  An  account  of  this  remarkable 
invention  will,  therefore,  be  interesting  to  many  of  our  readers. 

Mr.  H.  exhibited  his  embroidering  machine  in  Paris,  at  the  "  Na- 
tional Exposition  of  the  Products  of  Industry,"  for  1834 ;  and  of 
all  the  specimens  of  ingenuity  there  displayed,  it  was,  without 
doubt,  that  which  attracted  most  attention,  for  whether  at  rest  or  in 
motion,  it  was  always  surrounded  by  a  crowd  of  curious  persons  ; 
some  directing  their  attention  to  the  embroideries  which  it  had  exe- 
cuted, and  others  trying  to  follow  its  motions  and  to  divine  its  me- 
chanism. Indeed,  it  was  interesting  to  see,  in  a  small  compass,  130 
embroidering  needles,  each  busied  in  copying  the  pattern,  and  ac- 
complishing its  task  with  perfect  regularity  ;  one  person  only  being 
required  to  put  all  these  needles  into  action.  The  spectator  was 
especially  struck  with  admiration,  in  seeing  the  precision  with  which 
each  of  the  needles  came  of  itself  to  prick  the  stuff  in  the  very 
place  where  the  most  expert  hand  would  have  done  it ! 

Mr.  Heilmann  has,  in  the  construction  of  this  machine,  over- 
come, in  a  mechanical  point  of  view,  difficulties  of  an  almost  in- 

"*  In  some  inslancee,  the  common  shawl  shuttle  is  used  instead  of  the  circle. 


EMBROIDERY.  307 

surmountable  character  ;  and  he  well  merits  the  compliments  which 
he  has  received. 

It  is  not  necessary  that  we  should  enlarge  upon  the  national  ad- 
vantages which  must  result  from  this  invention,  because,  they  will 
appear  obvious  to  every  reflecting  mind.  We  would  remark,  how- 
ever, that  it  is  calculated  to  supply  us  with  beautiful  embroideries, 
for  home  consumption,  at  least,  and  render  us  independent  of  for- 
eigners in  this  delightful  branch  of  industry,  saving  miUions  of  dollars 
annually  to  the  country. 

Mulhausen,  Augvst  5th.  1843. 
Dear  friend. 

Your  favour  of  the  29th  June  last  has  just  reached  me,  enlosing 
a  Copy  of  "  lire's  Dictionary  of  Arts,  Manufactures  and  Mines  ;" 
in  which  publication,  at  page  437  of  vol.  1,  a  catch-penny  descrip- 
tion of  my  Embroidering  Machine  is  given  :  but  as  all  the  move- 
ments and  mechanical  arrangements  contained  in  plate  2,  of  your 
drawings,  with  many  essential  parts  of  plate  1,  are  omitted,  1 
have  come  to  the  conclusion  that  the  Doctor's  description  is  not  in- 
tended to  benefit  the  manufacturer  or  mechanician,  in  a  practical 
point  of  view,  but  only  for  the  amusement  of  children. 

I  am  glad  to  hear  that  you  have  embarked  in  the  publication  of 
a  treatise  on  the  art  of  weaving,  which  will  include  all  its  various 
branches.  Such  a  work,  I  am  persuaded,  will  prove  of  immense 
benefit,  not  only  to  individual  manufacturers  and  weavers,  but  also 
to  your  own  country  and  the  world  at  large ;  for  in  this  age  of 
charlatanism,  when  effrontery  usurps  the  place  of  genius,  a  real 
practical  work  like  that  you  name,  will  be  quite  a  god-send  ;  and 
you  have  my  best  wishes,  with  those  of  your  friends  here,  in  the 
undertaking. 

"  Facts  truly  stated  are  the  best  applauses,  or  the  most  lastmg  re- 
proaches." 

I  have  not  made  any  improvement  on  the  Embroidering  Machine 
for  some  time  past ;  nor  has  there  been  any  material  alteration  made 
in  its  principles,  so  far  as  I  am  aware,  either  here  or  in  England, 
since  its  first  introduction. 

The  patents  obtained  in  France  and  England,  have  expired  but 
a  short  time  since,  so  that  this  invention,  which  has  really  procured 
me  many  comphments  (among  which  is  the  decoration  of  the  "  Le- 
gion d^  Honneuf^)  is  at  present  pubUc  property. 


308  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

During  the  course  of  last  j^ear.  I  several  times  visited  the  factory 
of  Mr.  Louis  Schwabe,  of  Manchester,  containing  15  of  my  Em- 
broidering Machines.  This  manufacturer  has  received  compliments 
at  least  sufficient  to  drive  a  man  crazy,  (Ce  manvfachirier  a  re- 
cuilli  des  compliments,  a  faire  toiirner  la  tete,)  from  a  multitude 
of  persons,  who  were  in  Manchester  last  j'ear,  at  the  meeting  of  the 
British  Association.* 

Although  this  invention  has  filled  the  mechanical  world  with 
wonder,  I  do  not  think  that  it  has  turned  much  to  the  pecuniary 
advantage  of  those  who  have  hitherto  adopted  the  use  of  it ;  but 
my  opinion  is,  that  it  will  be  more  serviceable  when  within  the  reach 
of  every  one. 

When  your  work  on  the  "  manufacture  of  textile  fabrics"  is 
ready,  you  would  do  well  to  send  a  copy  of  it  to  our  Societe  In- 
dustrielle  here.  It  would  certainly  be  received  with  much  favour  ; 
and,  perhaps,  might  prove  greatly  to  your  advantage. 

Je  vous  presente  mes  salutations  cordial 

JOSUE  HEILMANN, 
Membre  de  la  Legion  d'  Honneur. 
MONS.  C.  G.  GILROY, 
a  New  York, 

Etats  Unis  d'  Amerique. 

The  price  of  a  machine  containing  130  needles,  and  of  course, 
260  pincers  or  fingers  to  lay  hold  of  them,  is  5000  francs  (nearly 
1000  dollars.)  Each  machine,  as  before  observed,  is  calculated  to 
perform  daily  the  work  of  20  expert  hand  embroiderers  ;  and  it  re- 
quires merely  the  labour  of  one  adult,  and  two  assistant  children. 

The  operator  nuist  be  well  instructed  in  the  use  of  the  machine, 
for  he  has  many  things  to  attend  to  at  the  same  time :  w^ith  one 
hand,  he  follows  the  drawings  with  the  point  of  the  pantograph  ; 
with  the  other,  he  turns  a  handle,  to  prick  and  draw  all  the  needles, 
which  are  held  fast  in  pincers,  and  carried  by  carriages,  approaching 
to  and  receding  from  the  web,  rolling  all  the  time  along  an  iron 
railway ;  and  lastly,  by  means  of  two  pedals  or  treadles,  on  which 
he  bears  alternately,  with  one  foot  and  then  the  other,  he  opens  the 
130  pincers  of  the  first  carriage,  which  must  give  up  the  needles 
after  having  pricked  them  into  the  stuff,  and  he  shuts  at  the  same 

*  We  Hiink  these  compliments  have  been  altogether  misplaced.  Would  it 
not  have  been  more  becoming  in  these  gentlemen,  to  have  sent  Mr.  Heilmann, 
the  inventor  of  the  machine,  a  handsome  gold  medal,  in  token  of  their  admi- 
ration of  his  ingenuity  ? 


INSERT  FOLDOUT  HERE 


EMBROIDERY.  309 

time  the  130  pincers  of  the  second  carriage,  which  must  receive 
them  and  draw  them  back  afterwards.  The  children  have  nothing 
else  to  do,  but  to  change  the  needles  when  the  threads  are  used  up, 
and  to  watch  that  no  needle  misses  its  pincers. 

We  shall  endeavour  to  make  all  the  details  of  this  machine  per- 
fectly understood  ;  because,  it  is  not  less  remarkable  for  the  arrange- 
ment of  the  parts  which  compose  it,  than  for  the  effects  produced. 

We  shall  describe  successively, 

1st.  The  arrangement  of  the  frame, 
2nd.  The  arrangement  of  the  stuff, 
3rd.  The  arrangement  of  the  carriages, 
4th.  The  arrangement  of  the  pincers. 


ARRANGEMENT  OF  THE  FRAME. 

The  frame  is  of  cast  iron  ;  the  parts  must  be  strongly  fixed  together 
and  set  on  a  foundation  firm  enough  not  to  be  shaken,  either  by 
the  motion  of  the  machine  itself  or  the  movements  of  the  girls, 
who  go  from  one  pincer  to  another  to  change  or  fix  the  needles. 
Fig.  1,  represents  an  elevation  taken  in  front  of  the  machine,  and 
Fig.  2,  an  elevation  taken  from  the  left  hand  side  of  the  machine 
(as  you  stand  in  front  of  Fig.  1,)  In  Fig.  2,  the  side  of  the  frame 
forms  two  equal  rectangles  A  B  B  A,  A  B  B  A,  symmetrically  placed, 
one  at  the  right,  the  other  at  the  left  hand  (as  you  stand  at  the  side 
of  the  machine),  and  united  in  the  middle  by  a  third  rectangle, 
narrower  and  more  elevated,  ADC  A.*  This  assemblage  of  the 
three  rectangles,  forms  but  one  piece  or  casting  ;t  the  sections  of  the 
horizontal  and  vertical  sides  of  the  machine  are  quite  similar :  on 
the  right  hand  side  at  No.  1  (plate  2)  is  shown  a  section  of  the 
frame,  and  below  it,  is  represented  one  of  the  feet  «,  which  has  a 
hole  to  receive  a  fastening  screw,  by  which  it  is  secured  to  the 
ground.     The  other  side  of  the  frame,  which  is  not  represented  in 


*  If  the  reader  will  carefully  examine  the  central  or  middle  rectangle  (of 
Fig.  2)  he  will  find  that  it  presents  a  complete  edge  view  in  elevation  of  the  left 
hand  side  of  Fig.  1,  being  that  side  on  which  the  machine  is  worked,  as  the 
position  of  the  pantograph  denotes  ;  th»  letters  of  reference  in  the  edge  or 
central  rectangle  Fig.  2,  correspond  to  those  of  the  pantograph  or  left  side  of 
Fig.  1. 

t  It  would  be  desirable  to  cast  the  sides  of  the  frame  in  one  complete  piece, 
as  it  would  save  much  labor  in  the  fitting  up. 


310  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

the  figure,  is  entirely  similar ;  we  shall  designate  corresponding 
parts  by  the  same  letters  of  reference  with  an  accent :  thus,  A'  B' 
B'  A',  A'  B'  B'  A',  will  be  the  two  symmetrical  rectangles  of  the 
second  end  of  the  frame,  A'  D'  C'  A'  will  be  the  rectangle  of  the 
middle,  corresponding  to  A  D  C  A,  and  a'  will  represent  the  six  feet 
(see  Fig.  2)  corresponding  to  those  designated  by  a.  Between  each 
foot  and  its  correspondent  a'  there  is  a  bar  of  cast  iron  A",  the  form 
and  disposition  of  which  is  shown  in  Fig.  1.  Thus,  at  the  under 
part,  the  two  sides  of  the  frame  are  joined  by  six  bars,  similar  to 
the  bar  A" ;  besides,  at  the  two  extremities  of  each  of  these  bars, 
there  are  knees  a",  to  give  strength  to  the  frame,  two  of  these 
knees  are  shown  in  Fig.  1 :  at  their  upper  part,  the  two  sides  of 
the  frame  are  joined  by  a  single  bar  D"  (Fig.  1,)  which  has  the 
form  of  a  trough  ;  and  is  fastened  by  a  nut  and  screw  to  the  cor- 
responding angles  D  and  D'.  Fig.  3  represents  at  its  upper  part  a 
section  of  this  bar ;  Fig.  1,  shows  the  form  of  its  outer  edge,  as  well 
as  that  of  its  back,  which  is  represented  by  a  dotted  line. 

Such  is  the  disposition  of  the  frame,  which  bears  all  the  mecJran- 
ism  of  the  machine  ;  and  it  is  necessary  to  possess  an  exact  idea  of 
it,  in  order  to  understand  how  the  other  fixed  parts  are  supported ; 
and  how  the  moveable  parts,  which  are  here  very  numerous,  are 
enabled  to  perform  their  respective  functions  with  perfect  regularity. 

The  width  of  the  machine  depends  upon  the  number  of  pincers 
intended  to  be  set  to  work.  The  model  which  we  saw  at  the  exhi- 
bition in  Paris,  contained  260  pincers,  and  was  2\  metres  wide 
(about  8  feet  4  inches  of  our  measure.)  The  figures  here  given 
have  been  narrowed  considerably,  but  the  other  proportions  are  not  dis- 
turbed. In  our  drawings  (Figs  1  and  2)  the  bars  A''  and  D",  which 
connect  the  sides  of  the  frame  A  and  A' together  (see  Fig.  1)  instead 
of  being  2\-  metres  long,  are  not  quite  2  metres,  (see  scale  at  foot  of 
Fig.  2.) 

The  length  of  the  frame  must  always  be  the  same,  whether  the 
machine  be  wide  or  narrow,  for  the  length  of  the  thread  that  can  be 
put  in  the  needles,  depends  upon  the  length ;  and  it  is  always  ad- 
vantageous to  give  the  frame,  as  we  have  done,  all  the  length  adopt- 
ed by  M.  Heilmann,  that  is  to  say,  a  little  more  than  two  metres, 
so  that  the  needles  might  bear  a  thread  one  metre  long. 

ARRANGEMENT  OF  THE  STUFF  TO  BE  EMBROIDERED. 

We  have  already  observed  that  the  pincers  which  carry  the 
needles,  present  themselves  always  at  the  same  point,  and  that  con- 


EMBROIDERY.  311 

sequently,  the  needles  would  pass  and  repass  continually  through 
the  same  hole,  if  the  stuff  was  not  displaced  with  a  precision,  suffi- 
cient to  present  successively,  opposite  the  point  of  the  needle,  all  the 
points  through  which  the  needle  has  to  pass,  to  execute  the  flower 
or  the  drawings  intended.  The  disposition  of  the  stuff  and  the 
mechanism  by  which  it  is  displaced,  to  the  requisite  extent,  after 
the  needle  has  gone  through,  are  therefore  of  great  importance,  and 
we  shall  try  to  explain  them. 

The  stuff  is  set  on  a  large  rectangular  frame,  the  four  sides  of 
which  are  visible  in  Fig.  1,  viz:  the  two  vertical  sides  at  F,  Fj 
and  the  two  horizontal  sides,  the  upper  and  the  under,  at  F',  F'. 

Fig.  1,  shows  also  two  long  wooden  rollers  G,  G,  the  extremities 
of  which,  fastened  with  iron  trunnions,  bear  on  the  sides  F  of  the 
frame,  on  which  they  turn.  These  two  rollers  form  a  system  of 
beams,  on  which  the  stuff  destined  to  be  embroidered,  may  be  rolled 
and  stretched  vertically  to  the  proper  degree,  for  each  of  these  beams 
has  at  one  of  its  extremities  a  little  ratchet  wheel  g,  g ;  the 
teeth  of  one  of  these  wheels  being  bent  in  a  contrary  direction  to 
the  teeth  of  the  other,  as  indicated  in  Fig.  3,  it  follows,  that  in  rais- 
ing, for  instance,  the  catch  of  the  upper  wheel  and  turning  the 
beam  in  the  direction  indicated  by  the  arrow,  the  stuff  draws  the 
under  beam  and  tends  to  make  it  turn,  whilst  the  catch  of  its  ratchet 
wheel  holds  it,  and  the  stuff  G"  (see  Figs.  1  and  3)  stretches  more 
and  more  ;  the  same  result  would  be  produced  by  turning  the  under 
beam,  after  having  raised  its  catch.  When  it  is  desired  to  pass  any 
part  of  the  stuff  from  one  of  the  beams  to  the  other,  it  suffices  to 
raise  at  the  same  time  the  two  catches  and  to  turn  in  the  proper  di- 
rection the  beam  on  which  the  stuff  is  wanted  to  be  rolled,  and  to 
let  the  catch  of  the  other  beam  drop  ;  then  it  remains  only  to  stretch 
the  stuff. 

Besides  this  system  of  under  beams,  there  is  a  second  system  of 
two  upper  beams,  for  the  same  purpose,  and  which  is  disposed  ex- 
actly in  the  same  manner  ;  it  is  also  represented  in  Fig.  3,  but  it  is 
not  completely  seen  in  Fig.  1,  where  it  is  hidden  in  part  by  some 
other  pieces. 

Supposing  that  one  of  these  systems  presents  the  stuff  to  the 
upper  needles,  and  the  other  to  the  under :  as  the  two  beams  of 
each  system  have  not  their  axes  in  the  same  vertical  plane,  the 
plan«  of  the  stuff  G"  (Fig.  3)  would  be  inclined  and  would  come 
to  present  itself  obliquely  to  the  needles,  if  the  workman  did  not 
take  care  to  put  it  straight,  and  bring  it  back  exactly  in  the  middle, 
by  means  of  a  strong  wooden  ruler,  fixed,  as  well  as  the  rollers,  on 


312  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

the  two  vertical  sides  of  the  frame  ;  this  ruler  is  shown  at  G',  Fig. 
3,  for  each  of  the  systems  of  beams. 

The  stuff  must  also  receive  a  lateral  tension,  in  the  two  opposite 
directions,  and  to  effect  this  without  its  being  torn,  the  operator  sews 
on  its  edges,  little  ribbands  of  linen  cloth  or  other  suitable  material, 
and  afterwards  ties  to  these  ribbands,  strings  g"  (Fig.  1)  which 
draw  them  laterally  and  which  are  fixed  to  the  sides  F  of  the  frame. 

It  remains  to  see  now,  by  what  ingenious  means,  the  frame  may 
be  displaced  in  all  directions,  without  deviating  from  the  vertical 
plane  m  which  it  had  at  first  been  fixed,  and  how  the  stuff  which 
is  fastened  on  it,  and  consequently  forced  to  follow  all  its  movements, 
may  present  opposite  each  needle,  the  successive  points  which  must 
be  pricked  and  crossed  by  the  thread. 

Mr.  Heilmann,  lo  obtain  this  result,  uses  the  pantograph,  by 
means  of  which  he  is  enabled  to  reduce  or  extend,  in  fixed  propor- 
tions, drawings  of  all  kinds.  Every  one  knows  the  principles  on 
which  this  instrument  is  founded,  and  we  shall  only  recall  them  to 
memory  in  a  few  words:  bb'fb"  (Fig.  1)  represents  a  parallelo- 
gram whose  four  angles  b,  b\f,  b",  are  hinged,  and  so  disposed  as 
to  become  either  very  acute  or  very  obtuse,  the  sides  keeping  always 
the  same  length  ;  the  sides  b  b',  and  b  b",  are  lengthened,  one  to  the 
point  d,  and  the  other  to  the  point  c,  and  these  points  c,  and  d,  are 
chosen,  on  condition  that  in  one  of  the  positions  of  the  parallelo- 
gram, the  hne  c  d  which  joins  them,  will  pass  through  the  point  f; 
this  condition  can  be  fulfilled  in  many  ways,  since  the  position  of 
the  parallelogram  remaining  the  same,  it  is  evident,  that  in  order  to 
carry  the  point  d  further  from  the  point  b',  it  would  suffice  to  bring 
properly  the  point  c  to  tlie  point  b",  or  vice  versa  ;  but  when  the 
distance  b'  d  has  been  once  chosen,  the  distance  b"  c,  is  a  necessary 
consequence.  Now,  the  principle  on  which  the  construction  of  the 
pantograph  rests  is  this :  it  is  sufficient  that  the  three  points  c?,/ and 
c,  be  in  a  straight  line  in  only  one  of  the  positions  of  the  parallelo- 
gram, to  have  them  to  remain  always  in  a  straight  line,  whatever 
its  position  be. 

For,  since  in  the  present  position,  the  line  c  d  passes  through  the 
point/,  the  triangles  6'c?/and  b"  c  f  are  similar,  as  having  equal 
angles  ;  for  b'  f  being  parallel  to  6"c,  and  b'  d  to  b"  f,  the  three 
angles  of  the  first  of  these  triangles  are  equal  respectively  to  the 
three  angles  of  the  second ;  we  have  then  the  proportion 

b"c    b' f 

b"f    b'd 


EMBROIDERY.  313 

but,  ill  aU.  the  positions  that  the  parallelogram  may  take,  in  opening 
or  shutting  arbitrarily  the  angle  6,  the  sides  will  remain  parallel, 
since  the  figure  will  still  be  a  parallelogram ;  the  angle  c  h"f  will 
then  lemain  equal  to  the  angle  d  h' f^  and  consequently,  if  in  any 
other  position,  the  point  c  be  joined  to  the  point  /  and  the  point  d 
to  the  same/",  the  two  triangles  b"  c  f  and  6  /  d  which  will  result 
from  it,  will  still  have  an  equal  angle  comprised  within  two  propor- 
tional sides;  thus  they  will  be  similar,  and  the  two  lines  cf  and 
f  d  will  be  on  the  same  line,  that  is  to  say,  the  three  points  c,  /  and 
d  will  remain  in  a  straight  line. 

This  once  admitted,  suppose  that  we  move  the  point  c,  in  a  cer- 
tain direction,  in  making  all  the  system  turn  round  the  point  d ; 
let  us  imagine,  for  instance,  that  the  point  c  comes  in  c :  then,  in 
joining  d  to  c',  it  is  evident  that  the  point  /  will  be  found  some- 
where on  that  hne  d  c',  in  f,  for  instance,  since  it  falls  always  on 
the  straight  line,  which  joins  the  point  d  to  any  position  which  the 
point  c  may  take. 

We  have  seen,  besides,  that  the  new  triangles  formed  on  d  c', 
(and  analogous  to  the  triangles  h"  cf  and  b'  f  d  of  the  primitive 
position)  are  similar,  and  since  the  lengths  c  b"  and  b"  f,  d  b ,  and 
b'  f,  are  constant,  we  have : 

c'f     b"  c 

df     b'f  ' 
in  the  primitive  position  we  had 

cf    b"  c 


df     b'f 
it  follows  then 

c/     cf 


df     df 
the  result  is,  that  the  line//'  is  parallel  to  c  c'. 

The  same  thing  will  happen,  when  the  point  c  passes  into  ano- 
ther point  c"  :  the  point  /  will  pass  at  the  same  time,  into  another 
point  /",  and  the  Unes  //",  /'/",  will  be  respectively  parallel  to 
the  hues  c  c",  c'  c"  ;  then,  lastly,  the  figures  described  by  the  point 
/  in  the  diverse  positions  of  the  parallelogram,  are  always  exactly 
similar  to  the  figures  described  by  the  point  c. 

To  find,  now,  the  relation  which  exists  between  the  outlines  of 
these  figures,  it  is  sufficient  to  observe,  that  in  the  primitive  trian- 
gles b"  c  f  and  b'  f  d.  we  have : 

40 


314  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

C/       h"  C 


df       hf 

hence 

cf+df    b"cWf 


but 
thus 


df  b'f 

cf^-df=^dc,  and6"c+6'/=6c; 

dc     be 


df     b'f 

the  triangles  dff  and  dec'  being  similar,  we  have  also 

ee'     de 


hence  it  results 


//'      df 
cc'     be  be 


ff     b'f         bb" 
If  the  side  b  b"  has  been  made  equal  to  the  sixth  part  of  b  c,  ff 
will  be  also  |  of  cc',  that  is  to  say,  that  in  general  the  outlines  de- 
scribed by  the  point  /  will  be  exactly  the  sixth  part  of  the  outlines 
described  by  the  point  c. 

This  proposition  is  that  adopted  by  Mr.  Heilmann. 
It  may  also  be  observed,  that  the  triangles  dbe  and  d  b'  f  bemg 
also  similar  triangles,  we  have 

be     db 


b'f     d  b' 
and  as  Mr.  Heilmann  has  taken  b'  d=  b'f  it  results 

be=bd. 

After  this  demonstration,  which  requires  only  the  first  notions  of 
geometry,  to  be  understood,  it  will  be  very  easy  to  perceive  how  the 
pantograph  acts  in  the  embroidering  machine.  In  looking  over 
Figs.  1,  2  and  3,  it  will  be  seen  in  Fig.  1,  that  the  side  b  c  has  a 
handle  B",  by  which  the  workman  puts  the  instrument  in  action ; 
Fig.  2  shows  the  profile  of  the  angles  and  hinges ;  and  Fig.  3 
shows  more  plainly,  the  support  on  which  it  turns,  and  the  turning 
point  by  which  it  carries  the  stuff"  and  frame  in  its  movements. 

To  obtain  more  precision  and  solidity,  the  sides  of  the  pantograph 
are  joined  together,  so  that  the  middle  of  their  thickness  is  exactly 
in  the  vertical  plane  of  the  stuff,  and  the  axles  of  the  hinges  as 
perpendicular  as  possible,  to  that  plane  in  which,  consequently,  all 


EMBROIDERY.  315 

the  movements  are  accomplished.  This  is  effected  by  fixing  on  the 
large  upper  bar  D"  a  bent  piece  d"  (Figs.  1  and  3)  having  a  proper 
jutting,  and  on  which  is  also  fixed  the  piece  d',  which  is  joined  to 
the  extremity  b  d  hy  di  hinge ;  this  piece  d'  is  fastened  to  d"  by  an 
iron  pin ;  but  it  has  an  oblong  hole,  and  before  fastening  the  nut  it 
must  be  drawn  backwards  or  forwards,  until  the  support  be  exactly 
in  the  plane  of  the  stuff.  This  condition  being  accomplished,  it  re- 
mains only  to  fix  the  frame  to  the  angle  /  of  the  parallelogram ; 
which  is  done  by  means  of  the  piece  F"  (Figs.  1  and  3.) 

It  is  now  plain,  that,  if  the  workman  takes  hold  with  his  hand 
of  the  handle  B"  (Fig.  1)  and  makes  the  pantograph  move  in  any 
way,  the  point/  will  describe  a  figure  similar  to  the  figure  described 
by  the  point  c  and  6  times  smaller,  as  w^e  have  demonstrated,  but 
the  point  /  cannot  move  without  moving  the  frame  and  all  its  sup- 
ports ;  besides,  if  the  frame  is  well  fixed  on  all  sides,  and  forced  to 
move  in  the  same  plane,  each  of  its  points  and  of  those  fastened  to 
it,  will  go  exactly  through  the  same  way  as  the  point/.  Thus,  in 
the  motion  of  the  pantograph,  every  point  of  the  stuff  describes  a 
figure  equal  to  that,  described  by  the  point  /  and  consequently 
similar  to  that,  w^hicli  the  point  c  describes  and  6  times  smaller.  It 
is  sufficient,  then,  to  give  to  the  workman,  who  holds  the  handle 
B"  a  drawing  six  times  larger  than  that  which  must  be  executed  by 
the  machine,  and  to  give  him  at  the  same  time  a  sure  and  easy 
means  to  go  wath  the  point  c  through  all  the  outhnes  of  that  draw- 
ing :  for  this  purpose,  there  is  fixed  at  c,  and  perpendicular  to  the 
parallelogram,  a  little  style,  terminated  by  a  point  C",  and  the 
drawing  is  set  on  a  vertical  board  E,  parallel  to  the  plane  of  the 
stufl!"  and  the  parallelogram,  and  put  back  only  a  distance  equal  to 
tbe  length  of  the  style  c  C"  (Figs.  1  and  2;)  this  board  is  support- 
ed by  the  iron  rod  e',  fixed  on  an  iron  foot  E'  (Fig.  1)  which  is  also 
used  for  different  purposes,  as  we  shall  show  hereafter  ;  the  frame, 
loaded  with  its  beams  and  stuff,  forms  a  pretty  heavy  weight,  and  it 
will  be  observed  that  if  it  is  necessary,  as  we  have  said  to  direct  it,  . 
to  keep  it  in  its  plane,  it  is  necessary  also  to  lighten  it,  so  that  the 
embroiderer  may  carry  the  point  of  the  pantograph  without  effort 
or  uncertainty  in  his  movements. 

Mr.  Heilmann  has  accomplished  this  in  the  following  manner : 

1st.  A  rope  e  (Fig.  1,)  tied  to  the  side  6  c  of  the  pantograph, 
passes  over  a  pulley  and  supports  at  its  extremity  a  weight  which 
the  workman  may  graduate,  at  will :  this  weight  balances  the  pan- 
tograph and  tends  to  raise  the  frame  a  little  ; 

2d.  The  upper  side  F'  of  the  frame  carries  two  jutting  rulers, 


316  THE    ART    OF    ^\  EAVING. 

the  profile  of  which  is  seen  at  E"  (Fig.  3,)  both  have  a  longitudinal 
and  horizontal  slit  in  which  the  rod  e"  may  easily  slide  (Figs.  1 
and  3),  which  thus  is  used  as  a  guide  to  maintain  in  its  plane, 
all  the  upper  part  of  the  frame,  for  the  rods  e"  are  fixed  to  the  great 
bar  D"  ;  the  length  of  the  sht  at  each  of  the  rulers  E"  must  be 
equal  to  the  amplitude  of  the  lateral  movement,  which  the  frame 
can  take  ; 

3d.  The  under  side  of  the  frame,  has  two  horizontal  rods  H  and 
H  (Fig.  1)  supported  by  two  small  arms,  which  aje  a  little  bent, 
as  shown  at  h  (Fig.  2  ;)  each  of  these  rods  is  fixed  in  the  groove 
of  a  pulley  H'  (Fig.  1,)  the  blocks  of  which  are  of  an  oval  form 
(Fig.  4)  and  supported  by  two  triangular  flanges  h',  h'  on  the  two 
arms  h"  which  form  the  extremity  of  a  forked  lever  H",  the 
profile  of  which  is  shown  in  Fig.  2  :  the  two  levers  H"  must 
move  together,  in  order  that  the  two  sides  of  the  frame  may  be 
equally  raised ;  therefore  they  are  keyed  on  a  shaft  I',  supported  at 
its  two  extremities  by  feet  of  cast  iron  I"  (Fig.  2,)  a  counterpoise  I, 
which  slides  on  the  arms  of  the  levers  H",  and  which,  as  it  may  be 
carried  from  or  near  the  line  of  the  supports,  allows  to  raise  the 
frame  upwards  to  any  required  height,  and  without  preventing 
the  frame  to  move  in  all  directions,  prevents,  however,  its  being  dis- 
placed from  the  original  plane,  for  which  the  pantograph  had  been 
regulated  ;  the  length  of  the  rods  H  must  also  be  equal  to  the  am- 
pUtude  of  the  lateral  movement  of  the  frame,  and  the  arms  of  the 
levers  H  '  must  be  sufiiciently  long  to  let  the  arc,  which  they  make 
the  flanges  It'  (Fig.  4)  of  the  pulley  describe,  be  confounded  by  de- 
grees with  a  straight  line,  in  the  greatest  excursion  from  top  to  bot- 
tom or  from  bottom  to  top,  which  the  frame  can  make. 

4th.  Two  guides  i,  i  (Fig.  1)  supported  on  iron  feet,  have  vertical 
slits  in  which  the  under  side  of  the  frame  F  is  fastened. 

ARRANGEMENT  OF  THE  CARRIAGES. 

Before  we  describe  the  arrangement  and  action  of  the  pincers 
which  carr)^  the  needles,  we  shall  explain  the  disposition  and  move- 
ment of  the  two  carriages  which  carry  these  pincers  and  all  their 
mechanism. 

These  carriages,  which  are  entirely  similar,  are  disposed  one  at 
the  right  and  the  other  at  the  left  of  the  frame  (Fig.  2 ;)  we  shall 
designate  by  the  same  letters  of  reference  the  pieces  which  compose 
them. 

Each  carriage  executes  its  movements  on  a  railway,  composed  of 


EMBROIDERY.  317 

two  rails  as  straight  as  possible  and  horizontally  fixed,  one  at 
each  side  of  the  machine.*  One  of  these  rails  is  seen  at  K 
(Fig.  2 ;)  an  end  view  is  given  on  the  right  at  No.  2,  and  its 
plan  is  represented  in  Fig.  5  ;  the  two  jutting  parts  k,  k  are 
placed  and  bolted  on  two  brackets,  also  bolted  to  the  two 
vertical  posts  A  C  and  A  B  of  the  frame  :  one  of  these  brackets 
is  seen  at  the  left  (Fig.  1,)  the  corresponding  bracket  of  the  other 
rail  is  seen  also  on  the  right,  against  the  post  A'  B'.  The  carriage 
itself  is  composed  only  of  a  long  hollow  cylinder  of  cast  iron  L 
(Figs.  1,  2  and  6)  having  at  each  of  its  extremities  two  wheels  L' 
which  roll  on  the  rails  K  (Figs  1  and  2  ;)  the  wheels  L'  are  mounted 
on  a  piece  V  (Fig.  2)  forked  to  receive  the  axis  of  the  wheels,  and 
the  piece  l  is  also  bolted  on  the  piece  or  appendix  I  (Figs.  1  and  6) 
which  is  cast  on  the  cylinder  L. 

These  pieces,  which,  properly  speaking,  constitute  the  carriage, 
are  then  in  perfect  equilibrium  on  the  rails  K,  and  thus  may  with 
the  greatest  facility  approach  or  withdraw  from  the  stuff  to  prick  or 
draw  the  needles. 

But,  to  supersede  the  necessity  of  employing  a  person  to  produce 
these  alternate  motions  of  the  carriage,  Mr.  Heilmann  attaches  to 
it,  a  piece  of  mechanism  by  means  of  which  the  workman  who  directs 
the  pantograph,  can  himself  without  changing  his  place,  conduct  the 
carriages  and  regulate,  as  he  pleases,  the  extent  of  their  course  as 
well  as  the  rapidity  of  their  motions. 

This  mechanism,  will  perhaps  appear  to  many  readers,  at  first 
sight,  a  little  complicated,  but  in  reality  it  is  simple  and  very  inge- 
nious, and  what  is  an  essential  point,  it  acts  with  remarkable  preci- 
sion. We  shall  now  endeavour  to  make  this  part  of  the  arrange- 
ment understood. 

A  pulley  J  (Fig.  2)  is  fastened  against  the  post  A  B  at  the  right 
of  the  frame,  by  two  stands  J'  and  J"  :  a  similar  pulley  is  fastened 
to  the  other  end  of  the  frame  against  the  corresponding  post  A'  B' 
(Fig.  1  :)  in  this  figure,  the  last  only  has  been  represented,  and  that 
which  is  fastened  to  the  post  A  B  has  been  suppressed,  to  show  the 
wheel  m  (see  left  side  of  Fig.  1,  and  edge  view  in  centre  of  Fig.  2) 
on  which  it  would  project.  On  a  level  with  the  centre  of  the  pul- 
leys J  is  fixed  an  iron  shaft  M"  (Fig  1)  supported  in  proper  couplings 
or  bearings,  which  are  fixed  against  the  large  posts  A  C  and  A'  C' 

*  The  reader  will,  of  course,  understand,  that  there  are  two  sets  of  rails  K 
K,  with  their  pulleys  L'  L',  one  set  on  each  side  of  the  machine,  as  seen  at  K 
K  and  L'  L'  (Fig.  1.) 


318  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

(Fig.  1.)  of  the  frame;  the  shaft  M  '  has  towards  its  extremities,  but 
inside  the  frame,  two  cog  wheels  m :  the  left  hand  one  is  visible  in 
Fig.  1.  the  right  being  hid  by  the  pulley  J ;  its  left  extremity  (pan 
tograph  side)  projects  outside  the  frame,  to  support  another  cog 
wheel  M  (Figs.  1  and  2.)  On  the  pulley  J  and  on  the  correspond- 
ing cog  wheel  7Ji.  passes  an  endless  chain  j  (Fig.  2  :)  the  part  of 
this  chain  which  must  pass  round  the  circumference  of  the  wheel 
ni  is  called  Yaucanson's  chain  {chaine-de-Vaucanso7i.)  the  other 
which  must  pass  round  the  circumference  of  the  pulley  J  is  a  sim- 
ple strap :  the  two  extremities  of  the  chain  j.  are  secured,  one  at  j' 
and  the  other  at  j '  (Fig.  2)  to  the  piece  m".  which  is  supported  by 
the  extremity  of  the  stud-pin  m'  (see  right  side  of  Fig.  1)  which  is 
fixed  in  the  piece  I  of  the  extremity  of  the  cylinder  L ;  tliis  same 
stud-pin  also  carries  a  roller  which  runs  under  the  rail  K;  to  steady 
the  carriage. 

It  results  from  this  arrangement,  that  by  turning  the  shaft  M" 
(Fi?.  1)  or  the  wheel  M  (Fig.  2)  in  the  direction  indicated  by  the 
arrow  (Fig.  2.)  the  carriage  wiU  be  forced  towards  the  stuff;  and.  on 
the  contrary,  by  turning  the  wheel  31  in  a  direction  opposite  to  the 
arrow,  the  carriage  vriW.  move  from  the  stuff. 

The  left  hand  carriage  (Fig.  2)  is  arranged  exactly  as  the  right 
hand  one.  v\hich  we  have  just  described  ;  every  thing  is  the  same 
and  designated  by  the  same  letters  of  reference,  with  the  exception 
of  the  wheel  31,  which  is  at  the  extremity  of  the  shaft  31"  corres- 
ponding to  the  second  carriage,  it  is  designated  by  the  letter  31',  be- 
cause it  is  necessary  to  distinguish  the  two  wheels  31  and  31',  which 
are,  however,  in  all  respects  similar  and  fixed  in  the  same  manner. 

When  one  of  the  carriages  has  advanced  and  pricked  the  needles 
into  the  stuff,  the  other  is  there  ready  to  receive  them,  it  takes  hold 
of  them,  draws  them,  performs  its  course  in  removing,  to  draw  the 
thread  and  tighten  the  stitch,  afterwards :  it  comes  back  and  brings 
the  needles  to  prick  the  stuff  in  its  turn  ;  during  its  motion,  the  first 
carriage  must  remain  in  its  place  waiting  for  it ;  thus  the  two  car- 
riages go  alternately  backwards  and  forwards,  but  never  move  at  the 
same  time. 

To  effect  this,  3Ir.  HeUmann  has  disposed  on  the  piece  O,  which 
is  bolted  on  the  two  posts  A  C  and  A  D  of  the  frame,  a  bent  lever 
n  on  71 '.  moveable  round  the  point  o  ;  the  bending  n'  has  a  cog- 
wheel 0'.  and  the  extremity  7i"  another  cog-wheel  O  ;  the  four 
wheels  31,  31 ,  O'  and  O"  have  similar  teeth  and  diameter ;  the  two 
wheels  O  and  O  '  are  fixed  in  relation  to  each  other,  so  that  it  is 
sufficient  to  turn  the  handle  X  (Figs.  1  and  2)  to  make  the  wheel 


EMBROIDERY. 


319 


O"  turn,  and  consequently  the  wheel  O' :  when  the  lever  n  o  is  ver- 
tical, the  wheel  O'  touches  neither  the  wheel  M  nor  the  wheel  M', 
but  when  inclined  to  one  side  or  the  other,  it  will  mesh  or  gear 
alternately  into  the  wheel  M  or  the  wheel  M'. 

Viewing  these  parts  as  they  are  represented  by  Fig.  2,  it  is  evident, 
that  by  turning  the  handle  N  in  the  direction  indicated  by  the  arrow, 
the  wheel  M  will  turn  in  the  direction  indicated  by  its  arrow,  and 
the  right  carriage  will  approach  to  the  limit  which  prevents  the  pincers 
from  touching  the  stuff,  with  a  rapidity  which  depends  entirely  on 
the  person  who  turns  the  handle  N :  by  turning  the  handle  in  a 
contrary  direction,  the  carriage  will  go  backwards,  and  the  simple 
movement  of  the  lever  n  o  (Figs.  1  and  2)  will  suffice  to  act  alter- 
nately on  the  left  or  on  the  right  hand  carriage.  The  reader  will 
perceive,  that  when  the  lever  n  o  is  vertical,  the  wheel  O'  will  neither 
touch  the  wheel  M  nor  yet  the  wheel  M',  but  if  the  lever  n  o  is  in- 
clined to  one  side  or  the  other,  the  wheel  O'  will  be  geared  into  the 
wheel  M  or  M,  alternately. 

The  workman  having  one  of  his  hands  occupied  with  the  handle 
B'  of  the  pantograph,  and  the  other  with  the  handle  N,  he  has 
only  his  feet  left  to  act  on  the  lever  n  o,  and  as  he  has  yet  many 
other  things  to  do,  Mr.  Heilmann  has  placed  before  him  two  treadles, 
by  means  of  which  he  executes  with  his  feet  a  series  of  operations 
not  less  delicate  than  those  he  executes  with  his  hands. 

For  the  present^  we  shall  consider  these  treadles  only  as  the 
means  of  communicating  motion  to  the  lever  n  o. 

The  treadles  P  (Figs.  1  and  2)  are  moveable  round  the  axis  p  (Fig. 
1),  and  have  ropes  p'  rolled  in  a  contrary  direction  on  the  pul- 
leys P' ;  these  pulleys  are  fixed  on  a  shaft  P"  (Figs.  1  and  2)  supported 
on  one  side  by  the  stand  E',  and  on  the  other  by  a  piece  K' 
fastened  to  the  two  large  posts  of  the  frame  A  C  and  A  D  (Fig. 
2) ;  the  shaft  P''  supports  at  its  extremity  a  piece  r,  represented  in 
front,  and  a  side  view  No.  3,  a  little  above,  and  at  the  left  of  the 
place  which  it  occupies  (Fig.  1) ;  it  has  teeth  on  a  portion  of  its  cir- 
cumference (we  shall  see  further  the  use  of  these  teeth,  but  for  the 
present  we  have  only  to  speak  of  the  part  without  teeth) ;  and  is 
furnished  with  a  pin,  which  goes  into  the  forked  extremity  of  the 
lever  n  o  ;  now,  it  is  evident,  that  by  lowering  the  treadle  P,  which 
is  now  raised  (Fig.  1)  the  upper  part  of  the  shaft  P"  (supposed  to  be 
seen  from  the  end  as  in  Fig.  2)  will  turn  from  left  to  right,  and  the 
lever  n  o  will  be  inclined  so  as  to  gear  the  wheel  O'  into  the  wheel 
M',  but  at  the  same  time,  the  treadle  which  is  now  down  will  be 
raised,  because  its  rope  P'  (Figs.  1  and  2)  will  of  necessity  be  rolled 


320  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

on  its  pulley  in  proportion  as  the  other  rope  will  unroll,  so  that  the 
apparatus  will  be  quite  ready  to  act  in  a  contrary  direction,  when 
needed. 

ARRANGEMENT  OF  THE  PINCERS. 

The  shaft  L'  (Figs.  1  and  2)  supports  from  distance  to  distance, 
at  spaces  of  about  half  a  metre,  appendices  q  q  fastened  to  it  (see  also 
Fig.  6,  where  the  scale  is  larger) ;  it  is  to  these  appendices  that  are 
fastened,  with  two  bolts,  the  curved  arms  Q,  (Figs.  1  and  2) 
which  are  destined  to  support  all  the  mechanism  of  the  pincers ; 
Fig.  6  represents  a  part  only  of  one  of  these  arms  but  as  they 
are  disposed  nearly  in  the  same  manner  abov^e  and  below  (see  Fig. 
2)  the  shaft  L',  this  part  is  sufficient,  with  the  Figs.  1  and  2,  to  give 
a  complete  idea  of  them  :  an  iron  rail,  forming  a  well  set  triangular 
prism,  represented  at  S  (Figs.  6  and  7),  extends  between  the  two 
consecutive  arms  Gl,  Q,,  as  seen  in  Fig.  1,  and  it  is  fixed  against 
each  of  these  arms  by  means  of  an  ear  s'  (Figs.  6  and  7)  in 
which  passes  an  iron  pin  which  crosses  the  thickness  of  the  arm 
but  instead  of  a  simple  hole,  the  ear  has  a  slit  which  allows  to  carry 
it  backwards  or  forwards.  The  workman  can  then  put,  one  after 
another,  in  a  very  straight  line,  the  three  rulers  S,  which  must  be 
found  in  the  three  intervals  of  the  arms  Q,  (Fig.  1) ;  each  of 
them  is  a  little  prolonged  beyond  its  two  ears,  so  that,  after  they  are 
properly  arranged,  the  three  consecutive  rulers,  seem  to  form  but  a 
single  triangular  prism,  extending  from  one  end  to  the  other  of  the 
carriage.  This  prism  is  destined  to  receive  and  to  support  all  the 
pincers  that  are  found  in  a  row. 

Figs.  8,  9,  10  and  1 1,  represent  the  different  parts  which  compose 
one  of  the  pincers.  At  T  (Fig.  8)  is  seen  the  under  jaw,  set  in  its 
place  and  fixed  on  the  prismatic  ruler ;  it  will  be  observed  easily 
that  it  has : 

1st.  Underneath,  a  Uttle  to  the  left,  a  set  screw  t,  by  means  of 
which  it  is  fixed  on  this  prismatic  ruler,  the  form  of  which  ruler  it 
has  at  its  under  part ; 

2d.  At  the  left  extremity  (see  Figs.  6  and  8),  a  spring  t',  used  to 
raise  the  end  of  the  upper  jaw  V,  in  forcing  it  to  shut  and  to  press 
against  the  under  jaw  ; 

3d.  Upwards,  and  towards  its  middle,  two  little  round  ears,  with 
a  hole  in  them,  and  separated  from  each  other  by  an  interval  equal 
to  the  thickness  of  the  upper  jaw,  and  destined  to  receive  the  cor- 
responding ear  v  of  this  jaw  ; 


EMBROIDERY.  321 

4th.  A  little  to  the  right  of  the  ears,  a  small  vertical  jutting  f , 
serving  to  stop  the  needle,  if  by  any  cause  it  should  be  misplaced 
or  too  much  in  advance  ; 

5th.  At  the  right  extremity,  a  thin  plate  T',  having  a  conical 
hole  larger  inside  than  outside  ;  a  front  view  of  this  plate  is  repre- 
sented at  Fig.  11. 

The  upper  jaw  V  has  been  removed  from  its  place  in  Fig.  8,  in 
order  to  show  its  form  better. 

It  will  now  be  perceived,  that  if  the  upper  jaw  V  of  the  pincer 
(see  Fig.  8)  is  dropped  down  into  its  place  between  the  ears  t"  and 
a  pin  passed  through  tliese  ears,  the  pincer  will  be  complete,  or  Hke 
that  shown  in  Figs.  2,  6  and  7. 

In  order  that  the  pincer  may  be  opened  to  receive  the  needle,  the 
long  end  of  the  upper  jaw  V  must  be  pressed  down  sufficiently  to 
overcome  the  elasticity  of  the  spring  t'. 

Fig.  9  represents  a  view  of  the  pincer  from  above  (a  plan  view) ; 
it  also  shows  the  size  of  the  jaws  and  that  of  the  spring  t'. 

Fig.  10  represents  a  pincer,  seen  from  the  end,  on  the  side  of  the 
plate  T'. 

Fig.  12  represents  a  needle  V,  of  full  working  size ;  the  eye  is 
in  the  middle,  the  thread  is  put  in  it  as  in  a  common  needle,  but  it 
is  not  doubled,  the  filaments  of  the  short  end  are  only  mixed  with 
those  of  the  long  near  the  needle,  and  are  slightly  twisted,  so  that 
they  may  hold  better,  and  go  more  easily  through  the  stuff  through 
the  hole  which  the  needle  makes. 

When  a  pincer  is  opened  and  half  of  the  needle  comes  to  be  en- 
gaged in  it,  by  the  opening  of  the  plate  T',  it  is  fixed  in  an  angular 
groove,  the  depth  of  which  is  a  little  less  than  the  diameter  of  the 
needle ;  and  when  the  pincer  is  shut,  the  upper  jaw  V,  holds  it  in 
the  groove  ;  thus  the  needle  is  held  fast,  by  three  points  of  its  cir- 
cumference. 

Suppose  now,  that  all  the  pincers  are  set  at  a  proper  distance  on 
the  prismatic  ruler  S  (Figs  6,  7  and  8)  to  form  the  upper  row  of  the 
right  hand  carriage,  as  seen  in  Fig.  1,  we  shall  endeavour  to  ex- 
plain by  what  kind  of  mechanism  the  workman  succeeds  in  open- 
ing, at  the  same  time,  all  the  pincers  of  the  upper  row,  when  they 
should  deliver  up  the  needles  to  those  of  the  opposite  carriage,  after 
having  pricked  them  into  the  stuff. 

There  is  for  this  purpose,  an  iron  shaft  U  which  extends  from  one 
side  of  the  carriage  to  the  other  (see  Fig.  1) ;  an  end  view  of  this 
shaft  is  shown  at  U  Fig.  13,  by  which  it  will  be  seen,  that  it  is  flat 
on  one  side :  this  shaft  is  supported  by  little  forks  u  (Fig.  6)  which 

41 


322  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

are  fastened  with  bolts  at  the  extremity  of  the  arms  Q,,  and  it  is 
fixed  there  by  a  key-pin  u' ;  the  shaft  is  round  in  the  parts  which 
rest  in  the  forks,  and  these  are  of  such  a  height,  that  when  its  flat 
part  is  turned  downwards,  it  touches  the  ends  of  all  the  upper  jaws 
V,  without  pressing  them,  so  that  the  pincers  remain  shut,  and  it 
opens  them  when  it  turns  on  its  axis,  by  forcmg  down  the  springs  t'. 

To  produce  this  effect,  Mr.  Heilmann  fixes  at  the  two  extremities 
of  the  shaft  U  two  sectors  with  teeth  x,  x,  a  side  view  of  which 
may  be  seen  in  Fig.  2 ;  each  of  these  sectors  gears  into  a  toothed 
vertical  ruler  X  (Figs.  1  and  2)  which  can  slide  against  the  arm  Q. 
of  the  carriage,  where  it  is  fixed,  and  the  ruler  X  has  at  its  under 
part  an  horizontal  pin  x'  (Figs.  1  and  2) ;  it  is  by  means  of  these 
pins  that  the  movement  is  communicated  to  the  ruler  X,  and  to  the 
sector  A',  and  consequently  to  the  shaft  U,  to  open  and  shut  the 
pincers. 

We  shall  now  try  to  explain  how  the  workman  performs  this 
operation,  by  means  of  the  two  treadles  P  (Figs.  1  and  2.) 

We  have  already  said,  that  the  shaft  P",  which  is  put  in  motion 
by  the  treadles  P,  supports  at  its  right  extremity  (Fig.  1)  a  piece  p'' 
destined  to  make  the  lever  no  act ;  this  piece  is  represented  in  front 
at  Fisf.  2,  and  on  the  left  at  No.  3  ;  it  has  teeth  on  two-thirds  of  its 
circumference,  and  is  used  as  a  pinion  ;  with  its  toothed  part,  it 
gears  into  a  sector  r,  fixed  at  the  extremity  of  the  shaft  R 
(Figs.  1  and  No.  3)  which  can  revolve  on  its  axis  and  is  supported 
by  proper  bearings  r'  r'  (Fig.  1),  placed  in  the  middle  of  the  hori- 
zontal and  lower  bars  of  the  frame.  The  shaft  R  also  supports 
two  arms  Z  Z  (Fig.  1  and  No.  3),  placed  crosswise  upon  it,  and  ter- 
minated by  forks  z  and  z']  the  two  forks  designated  by  z' 
correspond  to  the  left  hand  carriage  (as  seen  in  Fig.  2),  and  those 
designated  by  z  correspond  to  the  right  carriage ;  they  are  destined 
to  receive  the  stud-pins  x'  of  the  notched  rulers  X ;  and  it  is  very 
easy  to  understand  how  they  operate.  For,  taking  these  parts  as  they 
are  represented  in  Fig.  2,  let  us  suppose  that  the  workman  brings 
the  right  carriage  towards  him,  by  turning  the  handle  N,  in  the  di- 
rection of  the  arrow  :  then,  the  carriage  advancing,  secures  the 
stud-pins  x'  in  the  forks  z'^  and  pricks  into  the  stuff  the  jutting  half 
of  the  needles  which  it  carries,  and  these  halves  enter  into  the  pin- 
cers of  the  left  hand  carriage,  which  are  open  to  receive  them,  it  is 
then  necessary  instantly,  to  shut  the  left  hand  carriage  pincers,  so 
that  they  may  take  the  needles  and  open  the  right  hand  carriage 
pincers  to  give  them  up.  This  the  workman  does  with  his  foot,  at 
once :  he  bears  on  the  raised  treadle  to  draw  the  rope  which  it  sup- 


EMBROIDERY.  323 

ports  ;  then  the  movement  of  rotation  which  is  produced  in  the  cor- 
responding pulley  is  communicated  to  the  shaft  P",  pinion  p"  sector 
r,  shaft  R,  and  simultaneously  to  the  two  arms  Z,  Z,  the  extremi- 
ties z,  z  of  these  arms  (Figs.  1  and  2)  are  raised  and  carry  the 
stud-pins  X'  in  their  ascending  movement,  consequently  the  toothed 
rulers  X  ascend  in   sliding  in  their  grooves  or  guides,  make  the 
sectors  x  and  the  flat  sided  shaft  U  turn,   which  gives  pressure 
on  the  end  of  all  the  upper  jaws  V  of  the  pincers  and  opens  them 
all  at  once,  by  means  of  the  arms  Z  Z  (No.  3),  the  forks  z^  z'  which 
terminate  them  at  the  left,  descend  and  carry  with  them  the  stud- 
pins  x'  of  the  toothed  rulers  X  of  the  left  hand  carriage,  make  the 
corresponding  sectors  x  turn  as  well  as  the  flattened  shaft  U,  on 
which  they  are  fixed ;  its  flat  side  coming  on  the  ends  of  the  upper 
jaw  V  of  the  pincers,  and  all  the  pincers  of  this  side  are  shut  by 
means  of  the  springs  V.     Thus  at  the  same  time,  the  workman 
shuts  the  pincers  of  the  left  hand  carriage  and  opens  those  of  the 
right  hand  carriage,  which  will  remain  open  until  they  have  re- 
ceived the  needles,  after  the  return  of  the  left  hand  carriage.     The 
same  movement  of  the  treadle,  which  produced  this  double  result, 
has  also  changed  the  position  of  the  lever  n  o  (Fig.  2)  and  brought 
the  wheel  O'  on  the  wheel  M' ;  so  that  the  workman  has  only  to 
turn  the  handle  N  to  give  motion  to  the  left  hand  carriage,  which 
draws  the  needle  and  tightens  the  stitch. 

The  threads  are  stretched  in  proportion  as  the  carriage  withdraws, 
but  this  tension  presenting  no  elasticity,  some  inconvenience  might 
have  happened,  had  not  Mr.  Heilmann  fixed  to  the  carriages  a  piece 
of  mechanism  by  means  of  which  every  thread  is  pressed  at  the 
same  time  by  a  weight,  which  is  easily  regulated,  as  will  be  hereafter 
more  fully  explained. 

The  reader  will  see  in  Fig.  1  (a  little  below  the  prismatic  rail 
which  supports  the  pincers)  a  shaft  Y  which  extends  across  the 
carriage  and  projects  over  it  at  each  side  ;  this  shaft  is  supported  by 
pieces  y  which  are  bolted  on  the  arms  Cl(Figs.  1,  2  and  6)  in  which  it 
may  turn  ;  at  its  left  extremity,  it  has  two  little  bars  ij'  and  w,  and  at  its 
right  exti-emity  a  single  bar  y'  and  a  counterpoise  y"  which  may  be 
seen  in  Fig.  2  ;  the  extremities  of  the  two  bars  y'  are  connected  by 
a  stout  wire  which  extends  across  the  machine  (Fig.  1)  and  which 
wire  must  be  very  straight :  this  wire  is  simply  twisted  together  at 
its  ends  after  having  taken  a  turn  round  the  notched  ends  of  the 
bars  y',  as  will  be  seen,  on  close  examination  (Fig.  1) ;  the  position 
of  the  wire,  connected  to  the  ends  of  the  bars  y'  is  also  indicated  in 
Figs.  2,  6  and  7 ;  all  the  threads  which  come  from  the  needles  must 


324  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

pass  under  this  wire,  (see  Figs.  2  and  6.)  When  the  carriage  ap- 
proaches the  stuff,  and  before  the  wire  touches  it,  the  bar  w,  (the 
position  of  which  is  seen  in  Fig.  2)  meets  a  stud-pin  lo'  (Fig.  1), 
which  bears  against  it  and  raises  it  gradually ;  the  bars  y',  y'  and 
the  wire  which  connects  them  is  raised  at  the  same  time  and 
take  the  position  represented  in  Fig.  7 :  on  the  contrary,  when  the 
carriage,  in  leaving  that  position,  goes  from  the  stuff,  the  bar  w 
shdes  in  descending  on  the  pin  w\  is  removed  to  a  little  distance, 
and  then  the  counterpoise  y"  makes  the  bars  y'  fall,  bringing  down 
the  wire  which  connects  them,  on  all  the  threads  of  the  needles ; 
after  which  the  machinery  takes  the  position  indicated  in  Figs.  2 
and  6. 

In  the  description  just  given,  we  have  only  considered  the  upper 
range  of  pincers  and  needles,  in  order  to  simplify  our  demonstrations, 
but  it  will  be  seen  that  in  Figs.  1  and  2,  there  is  an  under  range  of 
pincers  and  needles  which  are  also  connected  to  the  lower  extremity 
of  the  arms  Q,  exactly  similar  to  the  upper  range  ;  the  machinery 
which  opens  and  shuts  the  pincers  is  also  the  same,  and  operates 
simultaneously,  which  will  be  seen  by  referring  to  Fig.  2,  because 
the  sectors  x  x  and  toothed  rulers  X  X  are  the  same :  the  flattened 
shaft  U  of  the  upper  carriage  is  precisely  the  same  as  that  of  the 
under  carriage.  Tension  is  communicated  to  the  threads  of  the 
lower  needles  by  an  arrangement  the  same  as  that  above  designated 
by  the  letters  of  reference  Y,  y,  y\  w  and  w',  (see  Figs.  1  and  2.) 

Having  thus  described,  to  the  best  of  our  ability,  this  beautiful 
piece  of  mechanism,  we  will  offer  a  few  remarks  in  regard  to  its 
operation. 

The  size  of  the  patterns  which  the  machine  can  embroider  is 
limited,  as  well  as  the  number  of  needles  to  be  set  at  work  ;  because, 
all  the  needles  in  each  carriage  (on  the  same  horizontal  line)  have 
each  its  respective  pattern,  so  that  the  number  of  patterns  to  be  em- 
broidered will  be  equal  to  the  number  of  needles  employed.  For 
example,  in  Fig.  1,  there  are  15  patterns  in  each  range  ;  these  would 
require  one  needle  each ;  it  is  therefore  evident,  that  the  distance 
between  the  needles,  respectively,  must  be  somewhat  greater  than 
the  breadth  of  the  pattern  to  be  embroidered,  or  the  motion  of  the 
frame  would  cause  a  part  of  the  stuff  which  had  been  embroidered 
by  one  needle,  to  come  in  front  of  another  needle. 

Therefore,  if  it  is  desired  to  work  with  130  needles,  65  above  and 
65  below,  and  if,  for  example,  each  pattern  was  to  be  7  inches  in 
breadth,  it  is  very  evident,  that  the  distance  between  the  needles 
should  be  rather  more  than  7  inches,  and  would  require  a  machine 


EMBROIDERY.  325 

more  than  65  times  7  inches,  or  about  13  metres  in  breadth  :  but, 
the  arrangement  of  the  mechanism  will  not  allow  to  give  the  ma- 
chine so  great  a  breadth  :  hitherto  the  machines  have  been  confined 
to  2^  metres  for  the  working  part,  carrying  on  this  space  130  needles, 
that  is  to  say,  65  above  and  65  below,  set  at  a  distance  of  about  1^ 
inches  apart  (mettre  a  la  distance  d'  environ  4  centimetres) ;  this 
then  is  the  maximum  of  the  breadth  of^  the  patterns  to  be  em- 
broidered. 

To  embroider  patterns  of  a  larger  size  the  number  of  needles 
must  be  diminished  so  as  to  allow  of  a  greater  distance  between 
thera :  it  would  be  necessary,  for  instance,  to  reduce  them  one-half, 
to  produce  patterns  3  inches  (8  centimetres)  wide. 

But,  in  diminishing  the  number  of  needles,  we  decrease  the  ad- 
vantages of  the  machine  ;  because,  it  requires  as  much  time  to  work 
a  carriage  with  50  needles  as  one  with  130. 

Although  the  machine  is  limited  in  its  width,  it  has  the  advan- 
tage  of  having  no  limit  in  its  length  or  height ;  it  may,  for  instance, 
eml)roider  at  the  same  time  130  ribbands  of  any  length ;  it  will 
suffice  to  dispose  these  ribbands  on  the  beams  G,  and  to  embroider 
all  the  height  which  the  vertical  motion  of  the  frame  allows  ;  then 
the  workman  marks  the  place  wdiere  he  has  left  off,  and  stops  the 
working  of  the  machine  for  a  moment,  while  he  rolls  on  one  of  the 
beams  G  the  embroidered  part  which  he  had  executed,  and  brings 
before  the  needles  the  new  stuff  which  is  to  be  embroidered  ;  he 
makes  the  point  of  the  pantograph  rise  or  descend,  according  to  the 
part  last  finished,  whether  above  or  below,  the  pattern  on  the  table 
E  (Fig.  1)  being  raised  or  lowered  to  correspond  ;  and  then  con- 
tinues to  embroider  from  the  mark  which  he  had  made  before 
rolling  the  stuff  on  the  beam. 

It  will  be  perceived,  that  the  workman  must  not  follow  with  the 
pantograph,  the  pattern  which  is  on  the  board  E,  but  must  stop  the 
point  of  that  instrument  on  the  point  or  little  square  of  the  design 
paper  or  pattern  which  the  needle  is  going  to  prick,  he  carries  it  again 
and  stops  it  on  the  point  through  which  the  needle  should  go  or 
enter  in  returning,  and  so  forth. 

To  facilitate  this  kind  of  reading,  the  pattern  which  is  on  the 
board  E,  is  composed  of  straight  lines,  crossing  each  other  at  right 
angles,  as  in  Fig.  70,  (which  see)  so  that  the  workman  has  contin- 
ually under  his  eye  the  pattern  divided  off  into  small  squares,  which 
he  must  follow  with  the  point  of  the  pantograph  ;  should  he  hap- 
pen to  be  interrupted  and  have  neglected  to  mark  the  place  where 
he  left  off,  he  must  look  at  the  embroidered  stuff  in  the  machine, 


326 


THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 


to  see  what  has  been  already  embroidered  and  to  find  by  compari- 
son with  the  pattern  on  the  table  E,  where  he  is  to  commence  his 
work  again,  in  order  to  leave  nothing  undone  and  not  to  repeat 
twice  the  same  thino". 


INDEX  TO  PLATES  1  AND  2. 


A  B  C  D,  Fig.  2,  The  side  of  the 
frame  where  the  workman  sits. 

A'  B'  C',  Fig.  1,  The  opposite  side 
of  the  frame. 

A",  Fig.  1,  Lower  cross-bars 
which  connect  the  feet  of  the 
two  sides  of  the  frame. 

a,  The  six  feet  of  the  frame, 
(Fig.  2)  on  the  pantograph 
side. 

a',  The  six  feet  of  the  opposite 
side  of  the  frame,  (see  Fig.  1). 

a",  Fig.  1,  Knees  which  unite 
the  cross-bars  A"  to  the  verti- 
cal posts  of  the  frame. 

B",  Figs.  1  and  2,  Handle  of  the 
pantograph. 

b.b'jb",  Three  of  the  angles  of 
the  pantograph. 

c,  Point  of  the  side  bb"  on  which 
the  point  is  fixed. 

C",  Fig.  2,  Point  of  the  panto- 
graph. 

D",  Figs,  1  and  2,  Cross-bar  in 
the  shape  of  a  trough  which 
unites  the  frame  above. 

d,  Fixed  points  on  which  the 
pantograph  turns. 

E,  Fig.  1,  Board  on  which  the 
pattern  to  be  embroidered  is 
put. 

E',  Support  of  the  board  E. 

e,  Rope  attached  by  one  end  to 
the  side  6  c  of  the  pantograph, 
passing  over  a  pulley,  and  hav- 
ing a  weight  at  the  other  end. 

e',  Iron  rod  to  support  the  board 

E. 
E",  Fig.  3,  Sliding  rule  fixed  on 

the  side  F  of  the  frame. 
e",  Figs.  1  and  2,  Rod  fixed  on 

the  cross-bar  D"  and  sliding  in 

the  sliding  rule  E". 


FF,  Figs  1,  2  and  3,  Vertical 
posts  of  tlie  frame  which  car- 
ries the  stuff". 

F'  F'  Figs.  1,  2  and  3,  Horizon- 
tal sides  of  the  same  frame. 

F",  Figs.  1  and  3,  Stand  fixed 
on  the  upper  side  F'  of  the 
frame  and  connected  by  an 
axis  pin  to  the  pantograph. 

f,  Fourth  angle  of  the  parallelo- 
gram which  forms  the  panto- 
graph. 

G,  Figs.  L  2  and  3,  Four  rollers 
or  wooden  beams  fixed  on  the 
vertical  posts  of  the  frame  for 
carr3'ing  the  stuflf. 

G',  Figs.  3  and  7,  Two  rulers 
fixed  on  the  same  posts  and 
mtended  to  maintain  in  the 
same  vertical  plane,  the  stuflT 
rolled  on  the  beams  G. 

g;  Fig.  3,  Ratchet  wheels  fixed 
at  one  of  the  ends  of  the  rol- 
lers G. 

g-',  Catches  which  hold  the 
wheels  g: 

G"  StuflT. 

g-",  Fig.  1,  Strings  used  to  stretch 
the  stuff"  sideways. 

H,  Guide-rods  fixed  to  the  under 
side  of  the  frame  which  car- 
ries the  stuflf. 

h,  Figs.  1  and  2,  Curved  arms 
which  support  the  rods  H. 

H',  Figs.  1  and  3,  Throated  pul- 
leys in  which  the  rods  H  slide. 

h'  h',  Figs.  1  and  4,  Flanges  by 
which  the  blocks  of  the  pul- 
leys H'  are  supported. 

H",  Large  levers  which  support 
at  one  end  the  blocks  of  the 
pulleys  H'  and  at  the  other 
counterpoises  I  (Fig.  2.) 


EMBROIDERY. 


327 


h'\  Fig.  1,  The  two  extremities 
of  the  forks  of  the  levers  H". 

I,  Counterpoise  of  the  lever  H". 

I',  Fig-.  2,  Shaft  on  which  are 
supported  the  levers  H",  fixed 
to  answer  for  each  other  and 
so  that  the  two  sides  of  the 
frame  which  carries  the  stuff 
be  supported  and  moved  at  the 
top  with  an  equal  force. 

I",  Figs.  1  and  2,  The  two  sup- 
ports of  the  extremities  of  the 
shaft  I'. 

i,  Fig.  1,  Two  iron  feet  having 
a  vertical  slit  in  which  slides 
the  under  edge  of  the  frame, 
serving  to  maintain  it  in  its 
plane  during  its  motions. 

J,  Fig.  2,  Pulleys  at  each  end  of 
the  frame. 

J'  and  J' ,  Figs  1  and  2,  Stands 
which  support  the  pulley  J. 

j^  Endless  chain. 

j'  andj  ',  Points  to  which  the 
extremities  of  the  endless  chain 
are  attached. 

K,  Figs.  1,  2  and  5,  Rails  for  the 
carriages ;  Fig.  5  represents 
one  of  these  rails,  seen  from 
above,  with  flanges  k  by  which 
it  is  bolted  to  the  upright  posts 
B  of  the  frame. 

K',  Fig.  2,  Cross  pieces  bolted  to 
the  two  posts  A  D  and  A  C  and 
supporting  the  extremity  of 
the  shaft  P". 

/:,  Flange  of  the  rails  K. 

L,  Figs.  1,  2  and  6,  Shaft  or 
cylinder  of  the  carriage,  hav- 
ing at  its  two  extremities  a 
flange  by  which  it  is  fastened 
to  the  wheel-carriers  l  and 
having  besides  from  distance 
to  distance  appendices  q,  q  des- 
tined to  receive  the  large  arms 

a  a. 

I,  Flanges,  through  which  the 
axis  of  the  shaft  L  is  fixed  to 
the  wheel-carriers  I'. 

L',  Small  wheels  which  support 
the  carriage  on  the  rails  K. 


/',  Wheel-carriers,  forked  at  the 
two  extremities  to  receive  the 
axles  of  the  small  wheels  L'. 

M,  M ,  Figs.  1  and  2,  Cog-wheels, 
set  on  the  front  extremity  of 
the  axles  M"  and  outside  of 
the  frame. 

m'.  Fig.  1,  Cog-wheel,  set  on  the 
shaft  M"  inside  the  frame. 

M"  M"  Two  shafts  turning  in 
bearings  fixed  on  the  large 
posts  AD,  AD'  and  A  C,  A 
C  of  the  frame  ;  one  of  these 
shafts  is  shown  in  Fig.  1. 

ni'  Stud-pin  crossing  the  piece  I', 
and  supporting  the  wheel  L' 
which  rolls  on  the  rail  K. 

m"  Fig.  2,  Piece  supported  also 
by  the  stud-pin,  m'  and  to 
which  the  endless  chain  is 
connected,  (Fig.  2). 

N,  Figs.  1  and  2,  Handle  by 
means  of  which  the  wheel  O" 
Fig.  2,  is  turned,  to  move  the 
carriages  forward  or  backward. 

n,  n',  n",  Bent  lever  supporting 
the  two  cog-wheels  O'  and  O" 
and  supported  by  the  axis  pin 
0,  Fig.  2. 

0,  Cross-bar  (Fig.  2)  connecting 
the  sides  A  C  and  A  D  of  the 
frame. 

0,  Support  or  axis  of  the  lever 
n,  n',  n". 

O'  and  O",  Two  cog-wheels 
gearing  into  each  other,  fixed 
to  the  points  7i'  and  n"  of  the 
bent  lever  n,  ??,',  n"  and  moving 
with  it  (Fig.  2.) 

P,  Figs.  1  and  2,  Two  treadles. 

p,  Axis  of  the  treadles  P. 

P'  Pulleys  fixed  on  the  shaft  P" 
and  moving  with  it. 

p'  Ropes  which  connect  the  trea- 
dles P  to  the  pulleys  P'. 

P"  Shaft  which  carries  the  pul- 
leys P'. 

p"  Piece  fixed  at  the  extremity 
of  the  shaft  P" ;  it  has  teeth 
on  f  of  its  circumference,  and 
the  other  part  is  prolonged  and 


32S 


THE    ART    OF    A\EAVING. 


has  a  stud-pin  which  goes 
through  the  forked  extremity 
of  the  lever  n  o  to  make  it 
move,  Figs.  1  and  2. 

Q,  Q,  Figs.  1,  2  and  6.  Large 
arms  of  cast  iron,  which  are 
fixed  on  tiie  shaft  or  cyUnder 
L  by  means  of  the  flange  q.  q. 

q.  q.  Flange  intended  to  support 
the  arms  Q,Q. 

R.  Fig.  1,  Shaft  supported  at  the 
under  part  of  the  frame  by 
two  bearings  r'  r'. 

r  Sector  with  teeth,  supported 
on  the  extremity  of  the  shaft 
R,  and  gearing  into  the  pin- 
ion />". 

r'  r',  Bearings  fixed  on  the  frame 
and  supporting  the  shaft  R. 

S,  Figs.  1.  2  and  6,  Prismatic 
rule  supporting  the  pincers  ;  it 
is  fastened  between  two  con- 
secutive arms  Q  Q,  by  means 
of  the  ears  s'  s'. 

s'  s'  Ears  to  wliich  the  arms  Q 
Q,  are  bolted. 

T,  Figs.  6.  8.  9  and  10,  Under 
jaw  of  the  pincer. 

t,  Screw  intended  to  fasten  it  on 
the  prismatic  rail. 

T',  Plate  pierced  by  a  hole 
through  which  the  needle  goes 
into  the  pincer.  (Fig.  11). 

t'  Spring  intended  to  press  down 
the  upper  jaw  of  the  pincer  on 
the  needle. 

U.  Fig.  1,  Flat  shaft  supported 
by  the  extremity  of  the  arms 
Q  Q ;  it  is  also  shown  in  Figs. 
6,  7  and  13. 

u,  Fig.  6,  A  small  fork  piece 
which  supports  the  axis  of  the 
shaft  U. 

u',  Key  pins  which  keep  the  axis 
of  the  shaft  U  in  its  place  in 
the  fork  pieces  u. 

Y,  Upper  jaw. 

V,  Ear  used  to  connect,  by  means 
of  a  pin.  the  upper  jaw  of  the 
pincer  with  the  under  one. 
(Fig.  S). 


y,  Fig.  12,  Needle  of  the  full 
size,  ^vith  the  eye  in  the 
middle. 

U-.  Arm  at  the  extremity  of  the 
shaft  Y.  and  intended  to  make 
the  shaft  turn  at  the  moment 
when  it  leaves  it. 

w',  Stud-pin  fixed  to  the  frame, 
and  against  which  the  small 
arm  w  shdes.  Fig.  1). 

w",  Two  small  arms  fixed,  one 
on  the  upper  shaft  Y,  the 
other  on  the  under  shaft  Y' ; 
the)'  are  connected  by  a  wire, 
so  that  the  motion  of  the  shaft 
Y  produces  that  of  the  shaft 
Y'.  (see  middle  of  Fig.  1.) 

X,  X,  Figs.  1  and  2,  Two  ver- 
tical rules  with  teeth  sliding 
against  the  arms  Q.  Q. 

X,  Sectors  gearing  with  the  teeth 
of  the  rules  X  and  fixed  on 
the  flat  shaft  U  with  which 
they  turn.  (Fig.  2.) 

.r\  Stud-pins  fixed  at  the  bottom 
of  the  rules  X.  Fig's.  1  and  2. 

Y.Y'.Figs.  1  and  2,^Shafts  sup 
ported  by  the  arms  Q,  and 
turning  freely. 

y.'//'.  Small  perpendicular  arms 
or  rods  on  the  ends  of  shaft  Y, 
Figs.  1  and  2. 

y".  Counterpoise  of  the  arm  or 
rod  Y,  Figs.  1  and  2. 

Z  Z.  Arms  fixed  on  the  shaft  R  ; 
each  being  terminated  by  two 
forks  z  z.  Fig.  2.  one  at  the 
right,  and  the  other  at  the  left. 

z,  z'.  Forks  which  terminate  the 
arms  Z  Z,  and  which  are  in- 
tended to  receive  the  stud-pins 
:^•'  of  the  toothed  rules  X  X. 

Xo.  1,  Horizontal  section  of  the 
post  A  B.  seen  from  above,  and 
also  showing  the  thickness  of 
and  the  shape  of  the  foot  a. 

No.  2,  Section  of  the  rail  K. 

Xo.  3,  A  view  in  profile  and  in 
front  of  the  pinion  p". 


INSERT  FOLDOUT  HERE 


EMBROIDERY.  329 

In  concluding  this  part  of  our  subject  we  cannot  but  express  our 
admiration  of  those  talents  which  have  overcome  difficulties  in  the 
construction  of  machinery,  as  great  as  any  ever  conquered  by  hu- 
man skill  and  perseverance.  The  embroidering  machine  is  not  the 
only  invention  which  ]Mr.  Heilmann  has  given  to  the  world ;  for  we 
find,  by  referring  to  the  records  of  the  '•  Societe  Industrielle  de  Mul- 
hausen,"  accounts  of  several  other  inventions  of  his  in  different 
branches  of  manufactures,  particularly  in  power  loom  weaving ; 
and  among  many  interesting  papers  furnished  by  this  gentleman 
and  published  in  the  "  Bulletin"  of  the  "  Societe,"  there  is  a  memoir 
entitled  •'  Observations  Microscopiques  sur  la  forme,  la  finesse,  et  la 
force  des  filamens  de  Coton,"  containing  much  valuable  informa- 
tion.*    Indeed,  we  may  say  of  Mr.  Heilmann  what  Lord  Jeffrey 

*  We  extract  the  following  characteristic  morceau  from  page  543  of  a  book 
entitled,  "Baines's  History  of  the  Cotton  Manufacture,"  as  a  specimen  of  the 
envious  spirit  entertained  by  Englishmen  (especially  of  the  middle  class)  to- 
wards the  French : — 

"NOTE 

Relative  to  tlie  Form  of  the  Fibres  of  Cotton.  By  James  Thomson,  F.R.S. 

In  the  first  volume  of  the  '  Bulletin  de  la  Societe  Industrielle  de  Mulhau- 
sen,''  published  in  1828,  is  a  memoir,  by  Mr.  Josue  Heilmann,  entitled  '  Obser- 
vations Microscopiques  sur  la  forme,  la  finesse,  et  la  force  des  filamens  de 
Coton,'  in  which  he  ascribes  lo  the  fibres  of  Cotton  the  same  form  precisely 
given  to  them  in  the  drawing  of  Mr.  Bauer,  dated  Feb.  11,  1822,  which  ac- 
companies my  paper  '  On  Mummy  Cloth.' 

Mr.  Heilmarm's  '  Observations'  are  accompginied  by  a  drawing  of  Mr.  Ed- 
ward Koechlin,  of  the  fibres  of  cotton.  Whoever  will  take  the  trouble  to 
compare  the  two  drawings,  will  detect  internal  evidence  of  the  one  being  de- 
rived from  the  other.  Mr.  Heilmann's  paper  being  published  in  1828,  and 
mine  in  1834,  renders  some  explanation  necessary. 

In  1822  or  1823,  Mr.  Edward  Koechlin  was  in  England,  and  during  a  visit 
he  paid  to  me  at  Primrose,  he  saw  Mr.  Bauer's  drawing,  and  requested  per- 
mission to  copy  it,  which  was  readily  granted.  It  is  from  this  drawing  and 
Mr.  Koechlin's  communication,  that  Mr.  Heilmann's  '  Observations  Micro- 
scopiques' are  derived. 

The  paltry  fraud  of  appropriating  to  himself  the  observations  of  others, 
without  acknowledgment,  might  have  passed  unnoticed  by  me  for  ever,  had 
not  the  friends  of  Mr.  Bauer  considered  this  explanation  necessary." 

We  have  the  pleasure  of  being  well  acquainted  with  Mr.  Heilmann,  and 
know  that  he  is  not  only  an  extremely  ingenious  man,  but  also  a  man  of  ster- 
ling honour  and  strict  integrity,  and  altogether  incapable  of  any  thing  of 
this  sort.  We  will  venture  to  assert,  that  Mr.  H.  possesses  more  real  inven- 
tive talent  than  Mr.  Bauer  and  all  his  friends  put  together.  Why  do  no 
these  gentlemen  also  lay  claim  to  the  embroidering  machine  which  we  have 
just  described  ?     Perhaps  they  invented  it  too  ! 

42 


330  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING, 

said  of  James  Watt : — "  Independently  of  his  great  attainments  in 
mechanics,  he  is  an  extraordinary,  and,  in  many  respects  a  wonder 
ful  man ; — possessing  infinite  quickness  of  apprehension,  a  prodi- 
gious memory,  and  a  certain  rectifying  and  methodizing  power  of 
digesting  and  arranging  in  its  proper  place,  that  which  is  really 
valuable  in  practice,  and  of  casting  aside  and  rejecting,  as  it  were 
instinctively,  whatever  is  worthless  or  immaterial."' 


SECTION   NINTH. 


SPOOLING,  WARPING  AND  SIZING  BY  POWER. 

The  processes  of  spooling,  warping  and  sizing  having  been  al- 
ready thoroughly  investigated,  as  applicable  to  looms  worked  by 
hand  (see  Section  First,)  it  only  remains  to  show  how  these  various 
processes  may  be  facilitated,  by  the  application  of  power  instead  of 
manual  labour :  this  subject  we  shall  now  endeavour  to  elucidate. 

Were  we  ambitious  of  confusing  the  wits  of  the  rabble  with  very 
learned  dissertations  on  spooling,  warping  and  sizing,  we  would  call 
in  the  aid  of  that  mysterious  art,  known  to  patent  agents  and  quack 
doctors  by  the  cognomen  of  "  5a2£'-c?ws^m^  ;"*  but  our  object  is  to 
diffuse  light  and  not  darkness. 

Fig.  148  represents  a  common  cylindrical  shaft,  containing  16 
drums  A,  with  four  spools  B  B  B  B,  which  roll  against  the  drum,  by 
friction  of  contact ;  C  C  represent  cast  iron  aiches  fixed  between 
each  pair  of  drums,  and  serving  to  keep  the  spools  in  their  places 

*  A  villainous  system  of  trickery  or  deception,  by  which  a  lie  is  garnished 
over  and  made  to  appear  as  truth:  it  is  commonly  practised  by  men  of  no 
real  inventive  talent  or  capacity ;  but  whose  impudence  is  their  grand  substi- 
tute for  genius.  Such  characters  often  apply  to  some  dishonest  patent-agent, 
or  petty  lawyer,  whose  business  it  is  to  assist  them  in  their  difficulties  ;  which 
he  does  by  drawing  out  a  long  windy  rigmarole  specification  of  some  5.000 
odd  words,  purposely  to  work  up  the  invention  or  inventions  of  some  inge- 
nious man,  under  pretence  of  making  improvements  thereon  ;  and  then  gild- 
ing the  pill  over  so  skilfully  in  the  summing  up  of  the  claim,  as  to  be  swal- 
lowed by  the  public  without  a  shrug  ! 


SPOOLING. 


331 


(see  D  D,  Fig.  149.)  Each  spool  has  suitable  iron  gudgeons  at  its 
ends,  serving  as  an  axis  on  which  it  revolves  (see  Fig.  148.)  E  E 
are  the  bobbins  from  the  spinning  frame :  F  F  are  cylindrical  pieces 
of  iron  covered  with  cloth,  lying  on  the  moveable  rails  G  G.   Pieces 

Fig.  148. 


of  cloth  are  also  fastened  on  the  rails  beneath  the  cleaners  F  F,  so 
that  the  thread  passes  through  between  the  two  plies  of  cloth,  which 
partly  smooth  down  the  fibres,  and  clean  it  from  any  loose  specks 
that  may  adhere  to  it ;  II  are  guide  pins  fastened  on  the  rails  G  G 
(Fig.  149.)  The  pulley  J,  driven  by  a  band  from  the  cylinder 
shaft,  is  connected  with  a  heart  motion,  which  moves  the  rails  G  G 
alternately  in  a  horizontal  direction  the  full  length  of  the  spools, 
and  by  means  of  the  guide- pins  1 1,  causes  the  yarn  to  wind  on 
equally  from  end  to  end  of  the  spools.  Each  of  the  drums  A  is 
covered  with  cloth  or  leather,  and  requires  to  be  perfectly  true,  as 
otherwise  it  would  give  a  vibratory  motion  to  the  spools  while  the 
yarn  is  winding  on. 


332  THE    ART    OF    "WEAVING. 

This  machine  is  extremely  light,  simple  in  its  construction,  and 
easily  kept  in  order.  A  machine  containing  twenty  drums  may  be 
attended  by  two  girls  of  twelve  years  of  age,  and  is  capable  of 
winding  3,000  hanks  per  day  of  12^  hours. 

Instead  of  winding  the  yarn  ofl'  the  small  bobbins  on  to  others 
of  a  larger  size,  it  is  common  in  a  number  of  factories  to  take  the 
bobbins  direct  from  the  spinning  frame  to  the  warping  machine, 
which  is  mounted  with  a  rack  or  creel  suited  to  the  size  of  the 
bobbins.  This  creel,  rack,  or  bobbin  frame,  is  attached  to  the  back 
of  the  warping  machine,  and  lies  in  a  horizontal  position,  but  is 
hollowed  in  the  centre  like  a  cradle  :  hence  it  is  denominated  the 
cradle  warper.  The  girl  who  attends  this  machine  stands  with  her 
face  towards  the  back  of  the  warper,  having  the  bobbin  frame  in- 
tervening ;  she  thereby  has  aU  the  bobbins  within  her  reach,  so  that 
whenever  she  perceives  one  nearly  empty,  she  is  ready  to  remove  it, 
replace  it  with  a  full  one,  and  tie  the  two  ends  of  the  thread,  with- 
out stopping  the  machine.  And  owing  to  the  number  of  bobbins 
in  the  frame,  and  the  small  quantity  of  yarn  contained  on  each, 
they  are  constantly  emptying,  while  the  attendant  is  constantly 
supplying  their  places  with  full  ones  ;  but  in  order  to  prevent  them 
from  running  out  entirely,  she  requires  to  take  out  a  considerable 
number  before  the  yarn  is  completely  wound  off.  The  yarn,  there- 
fore, which  is  left  on  the  bobbins,  if  not  wound  off  at  some  other 
machine,  is  liable  to  be  made  into  waste.  Hence  the  cradle  warper 
has  not  been  generally  adopted,  as  it  has  been  found  that  the  loss 
from  the  quantity  of  waste  made  by  it,  is  greater  tlian  tlie  expense 
required  for  spooling,  or  winding  the  yarn  from  small  bobbins  on  to 
others  of  a  larger  size,  suited  to  the  common  bobbin  frame  of  a 
warping  machine. 

The  next  step  preparatory  to  the  operation  of  weaving  is  the  for- 
mation of  the  warp  or  chain,  that  is,  the  longitudinal  threads  of  the 
web,  which  he  parallel  to  each  other  through  the  breadth  of  the 
cloth.  The  bobbins  are  transferred  to  the  warping  machine  ;  and 
though  this  machine  is  very  simple  in  its  construction,  yet  it  is  well 
worthy  our  notice. 

WARPING  MACHINE. 

The  species  of  warping  machine  which  we  shall  now  endeavour 
to  explain  is  an  American  invention,  and  is  far  superior  to  those  used 
in  Great  Britain ;  for  it  has  the  advantage  of  being  provided  with  an 


WARPING. 


333 


ingenious  contrivance  by  means  of  which  it  is  instantly  stopped  on 
the  breaking  of  a  thread. 

Fig.  150, 


A  A,  Figs.  150  and  151,  is  the  framing  of  the  machine,  which 
being  constructed  of  wood,  gives  it  a  heavy  appearance  in  the  draw- 
ings ;  B  Figs.  151  and  153  are  the  threads  proceeding  from  the 
bobbin  frame  to  the  iron  plate  C,  where  each  thread  is  separated  ; 
the  plate  C  being  perforated  with  small  holes  corresponding  to  the 
number  of  threads  to  be  wound  on  the  beam.  Passing  the  plate  C, 
where  all  the  threads  are  brought  into  one  horizontal  plane,  they 
thence  pass  over  the  rods  D  D  :  from  these  through  the  guide-reed 
E  and  on  to  the  beam  F,  which  is  represented  as  containing  only 
the  first  round  of  the  yarn.  The  belt  pulleys  G  are  on  the  same 
shaft  with  the  wheel  H,  which  drives  the  wheel  I ;  on  the  same 
axis  with  the  wheel  I,  is  the  drum  J,  which  drives  the  yarn  beam 
F.  The  drum  J,  on  which  the  yarn  beam  rests,  and  by  which  it  is 
moved,  is  exactly  one  yard  in  circumference,  and  upon  one  end 
of  its  axis,  there  is  a  screw  working  into  small  geared  wheels  con- 
nected with  an  index,  which  indicates  the  revolutions  of  the  drum 
during  the  warping  of  each  beam,  from  which  the  length  of  yarn 
on  each  beam  is  ascertained,  and  the  attendant  is  paid  accordingly. 
The  axis  of  the  yarn  beam  rests  on  two  slots  of  the  framing  at  K, 
and  is  pressed  down  upon  the  drum  J,  by  the  stirrup  L  L,  which  is 
also  weighted  down  by  the  cross  lever  M.     From  the  top  of  the 


334 


THE    ART    OF    WEAVIXG. 


stiiTup  L,  an  arm  N  extends  to  the  guide  reed  E.  so  that  as  the 
yarn  fills  on  the  beam  F,  it  gradually  rises,  and  the  arm  N  presses 
up  the  guide  reed  with  the  same  gradual  motion,  so  as  to  keep  it 
always  in  a  proper  position  in  relation  to  the  increasing  diameter  of 

Fig.  151. 


the  yarn  beam :  O,  Fig.  151,  is  a  strap  attached  to  the  weight  P, 
and  which  winds  round  a  small  shaft,  on  the  end  of  w^hich  the 
ratchet  wheel  Q,  is  made  fast.  When  the  beam  is  sufficiently  full, 
the  strap  O  is  wound  up  by  means  of  a  wrench  attached  to  the 
ratchet  wheel,  which  thereby  lifts  the  weight  P,  the  lever  M  and 
stirrup  L,  until  the  hook  on  the  axis  of  the  yarn  beam  at  K,  is  so 
far  relieved  as  to  be  pressed  back :  the  full  beam  is  then  removed, 
and  an  empty  one  put  in  its  place — the  stirrup  is  brought  forward 
till  the  hook  is  above  the  axis  of  the  beam — the  catch  of  the 
ratchet  wheel  is  lifted — the  strap  unwound — and  the  machine  is 
then  ready  to  warp  another  beam. 


WARPING.  335 

From  the  foregoing  description,  it  will  be  seen  that  this  warping 
machine  differs  very  little  from  those  used  in  Gr«at  Britain.  It  is 
however  in  every  respect  as  simple  and  efficient,  besides  having  the 
advantage  of  the  stop-motion  ;  and  which  will  now  be  described. 

As  the  yarn  from  the  bobbin  frame  enters  the  plate  C,  it  passes 
over  the  rods  D  D ;  but  between  these  rods,  there  is  a  drop-wire  sus- 
pended upon  each  thread :  these  drop-wires  are  pieces  of  flattened 
steel  wire,  about  four  inches  long,  from  -J-  to  i%  broad,  and  ^^  of  an 
inch  thick :  their  weight  varies  from  4  grains  4  dwts.  to  4  grains 
10  dwts.  They  are  hooked  at  the  top,  and  suspended  by  their  own 
weight  on  each  thread.  (See  RRR,  front  view,  Fig.  150,  and  R, 
Fig.  153.)  When  the  machine  is  in  operation,  the  drop-wires  are 
borne  up  by  the  tension  of  the  threads,  but  as  soon  as  any  one 
thread  breaks,  it  slackens,  and,  of  course,  the  wire  drops  down  till 
the  point  of  the  hook  at  S,  Fig.  154,  rests  on  the  plate  T  T,  Fig. 
153  ;  and  it  is  this  dropping  down  of  the  wire  that  stops  the  ma- 
chine. The  shaft  U  U  extending  across  the  machine,  has  an  ec- 
centric at  V,  Figs.  150  and  153,  which  works  into  the  fork  of  the 
lever  W  W.  On  the  top  of  the  lever  W  W,  there  is  a  small  tum- 
bler X  Y  X  attached  to  the  steel  plate  Z,  Figs.  150  and  153.  The 
lever  W  W  turns  upon  a  journal  at  A',  Figs.  151  and  153  ;  and  in 
consequence  of  the  eccentric  V  working  into  the  fork,  the  top  of  the 
lever,  and  with  it  the  tumbler  X  Y  X,  and  the  plate  Z  are  made  to 
oscillate  under  the  drop-wires  ;  so  when  a  thread  breaks,  the  wire 
drops  down,  and  retards  the  oscillating  motion  of  the  plate  Z,  which 
immediately  depresses  either  end  of  the  plate  X  X  of  the  tumbler, 
which  again  presses  down  the  lever  B'  C  at  B',  and  raises  the  other 
extremity  at  C.  By  hfting  the  lever  at  C,  the  rod  D'  D',  being 
then  disengaged,  is  operated  upon  by  the  spiral  spring  E',  Fig.  150, 
which  causes  it  to  shift  so  far  as  to  act  upon  the  upright  rod  F',  and 
turn  it  round  as  far  as  to  make  the  belt  lever  G',  shift  the  belt 
from  the  fast,  on  to  the  loose  pulley.  And  as  these  various  parts 
are  fitted  so  as  to  operate  all  at  once,  the  machine  upon  the  break- 
ing of  one  thread  will  be  instantly  stopped. 

When  the  broken  threads  are  all  tied,  and  the  machine  ready  to 
be  put  in  motion,  the  girl  attending,  lays  hold  of  the  rail  H'  H',  Fig. 
150,  and  pulls  it  forward ;  I'  I'  are  straps  of  leather  fastened  to  the 
wooden  frame  J'  J',  containing  the  drop  wires  ;  therefore,  by  draw- 
ing down  the  rail  H'  H',  the  shaft  K'  K'  turns  round,  and  causes  the 
straps  L'  L',  to  raise  the  frame  J'  J'  so  far  as  to  hft  all  the  drop-wnres 
above  the  top  of  the  plate  Z,  which  keep  their  places  by  the  tension 
of  the  yarn,  as  soon  as  the  machine  gets  into  full  operation.     In  • 


336 


THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 


lifting  the  drop- wire  frame  J'  J',  it  also  draws  up  the  point  M',  of  the 
small  lever  M'  N'.  Figs.  151  and  153,  which  causes  the  other  ex- 
tremity N',  to  operate  upon  an  arm  of  the  upright  rod  F',  and  turn 
it  round  as  fast  as  to  let  the  belt  lever  G',  shift  the  driving  belt 
from  the  loose,  on  to  the  fast  pulley :  at  the  same  time  another  arm 
O',  of  the  upright  rod  F',  Fig.  151,  also  operates  upon  the  rod  D'D' 
at  P',  Fig.  150,  and  shifts  it  to  the  right  hand,  until  the  point  C  of 
the  lever  B'  C,  drops  into  the  square  groove  seen  in  Fig.  150  :  the 
lever  or  catch  C,  is  kept  in  the  groove  of  the  rod  D'  D',  by  the 
small  spiral  spring  Q,'.  Thus  by  pulling  forward  the  rail  H'  H',  the 
drop- wires  are  lifted,- and  the  whole  machine  is  instantly  put  in 
operation ;  and  by  lifting  the  catch  C,  the  rod  D'  D'  being  opera- 
ted upon  by  the  spiral  spring  E',  it  is  instantly  stopped. 
Figs.  152,  153  &  154. 


Fig.  154. 


Drop  wire  of  one  fourth  the  working  size. 


WARPING.  337 

Fig.  1.52  is  a  front  view  of  the  guide  reed  E,  seen  in  Fig.  151,  for 
directing  the  yarn  on  the  beam  F  :  it  consists  of  a  piece  of  sheet 
iron  cut  into  a  number  of  shts,  corresponding  to  the  number  of 
threads  to  be  warped  on  the  beam.  By  examining  the  figure,  it 
will  be  seen  that  the  slits  are  so  contrived,  that  a  lease  may  be 
formed  on  each  beam  if  necessary. 

In  looking  at  the  representations  given  of  this  machine,  those  un- 
acquainted with  it  might  be  apt  to  suppose,  from  the  number  of 
levers,  springs,  (fcc.  depending  upon  each  other,  that  it  would  work 
inaccurately,  and  be  difficult  to  keep  in  order.  This,  however,  is 
not  the  case.  The  warping  machines  used  in  Great  Britain  require 
the  utmost  attention  on  the  part  of  the  attendant  to  notice  instantly 
when  a  thread  breaks  ;  as  should  her  eye  be  diverted  from  her  work 
but  one  moment,  the  end  of  a  broken  thread  might  wind  round  the 
beam  so  far,  as  to  require  five  minutes  or  more  to  find  it,  and  put 
the  machine  again  in  motion.  But  this  is  not  the  case  with  those 
used  in  America ;  for  while  the  machine  is  in  operation,  the  attend- 
ant is  frequently  behind  the  bobbin  frame,  taking  out  empty  spools, 
and  supplying  their  places  with  full  ones  ;  nor  could  the  cradle 
warpers  of  America  be  used,  except  by  being  furnished  with  a  self- 
acting  stop-motion.  This  motion  is,  therefore,  eminently  entitled 
to  the  appellation  of  an  important  labour-saving  improvement. 

The  above  account  of  the  American  spooling  and  warping  ma- 
chines, is  principally  abridged  from  the  able  descriptions  given  by 
James  Montgomery,  Esq.,  in  his  excellent  work,  entitled,  "  The 
Cotton  Manufacture  of  the  United  States  of  America  contrasted  and 
compared  with  that  of  Great  Britain." 

A\  e  close  this  part  of  our  subject  with  a  remark  or  two  regarding 
the  warping  and  beaming  of  silk  webs  : — 

1st.  In  warping  silk  weljs  where  the  warp  is  to  consist  of  differ- 
ent grists  or  colours  of  yarn,  as  in  stripes,  ginghams,  pullicates,  &c., 
the  bobbins  must  be  arranged  in  the  creel  or  bank  agreeably  to  the 
order  in  which  they  are  indicated  in  the  draught  or  design. 

2d.  A  silk  warp  to  make  taffeta,  must  not  be  put  on  the  same 
roller  or  beam  with  one  to  make  gros  de  Tours  serge,  satin,  (fee, 
but  each  must  have  a  separate  and  distinct  roller  for  itself;  and  they 
must  be  weighted  according  to  the  nature  of  the  texture  to  be  pro- 
duced. 

3d.  A  warp  making  the  same  pattern  in  several  places  in  the 
web,  but  double-threaded  in  one  place  and  single  in  another,  must 
not  be  all  put  on  the  same  roller  or  beam ;  because,  the  different 

43 


33S  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

parts  would  not  work  equally  tight  in  the  weaving,  as  the  double- 
threaded  part  would  be  much  larger  on  the  roller  than  the  single. 

SIZING. 

Since  the  invention  of  the  common  dressing  or  sizing  machine, 
in  1802,  by  Mr.  Thomas  Johnson,  an  ingenious  mechanic  of  Bred- 
bury,  a  great  many  different  contrivances  have  been  tried  to  facili- 
tate the  operation  of  sizing ;  but  most  of  them  have  sunk  into  ob- 
livion. It  will  be  our  object,  in  this  place,  to  describe  only  those 
which  are  likely  to  prove  beneficial  to  the  manufacturer.  The  first 
of  these  which  we  shall  consider;  is  of  the  invention  of  Mr.  John 
Potter,  of  Manchester  ;  and  tlie  second,  of  Messrs.  Hornby  and 
Kennyworthy,  manufacturers,  Blackburn. 

Mr.  Potter's  improvements  in  the  process  of  preparing  warps  for 
the  loom,  consist ;  firstly, — In  certain  variations  in  the  construction 
of  the  ordinary  dressing  machine,  by  means  of  which,  the  manu- 
facturer is  enabled  to  dress  warps  which  have  previously  undergone 
the  process  of  sizing,*  so  as  to  produce  a  warp  more  capable  of 
enduring  the  subsequent  friction  in  the  process  of  weaving ;  and, 
secondly.  In  the  construction  and  arrangement  of  a  new  machine 
for  the  purpose  of  producing  a  warp  of  greater  length,  and  thereby 
obviating  the  necessity  of  joining  or  twisting  in  the  warp  so  fre- 
quently as  is  the  case  when  a  warp  of  the  ordinary  length  is  used. 
The  same  letters  and  figures  of  reference  indicate  the  same  parts 
throughout. 

Fig.  1,  Plate  3,  represents  a  side  elevation  of  a  dressing  machine 
to  which  part  of  these  improvements  is  applied  ;  and  Fig.  2,  is  a 
plan  of  the  same.  In  operating  with  this  machine,  it  is  usual  to 
place  the  yarn  on  six  or  eight  beams,  from  which  it  is  drawn  off  and 
combined  in  the  process  of  dressing  to  form  the  warp ;  but  in  Mr. 
P's  machine,  the  warp,  in  a  ball  (as  taken  from  the  drying  house,) 
is  placed  at  the  point  A,  and  the  end  of  the  warp,  in  a  sized  state, 

*  The  common  sizing  machine  consists  of  a  trough  filled  with  size,  through 
which  the  warp  is  drawn  ;  but  instead  of  passing  the  warp  simply  through 
the  size,  it  is  made  to  pass  under  and  over  a  series  of  rollers,  having  suit- 
able gudgeons  and  bearings  at  their  ends,  rotary  motion  being  conmiuni- 
cated  by  the  friction  of  the  traveUing  warp  as  it  is  drawn  away  from  them. 
Atlter  having  passed  this  series  of  rollers,  the  warp  is  squeezed  between  two 
large  wooden  rollers  or  cylinders,  which  expel  the  superfluous  moisture.  It 
is  then  passed  over  the  cylinders  of  a  common  drying  machine,  similar  to 
those  u.*ed  by  calico  printers,  when  it  is  finished. 


INSERT  FOLDOUT  HERE 


SIZING.  339 

is  carried  over  the  rest  or  guide  B,  and  between  the  pressing  rollers 
C  and  D,  thence  round  the  stud  E,  and  back  under  the  roller  D, 
passing  again  between  the  pressing  rollers  C  and  D,  and  over  the 
upper  surface  of  the  roller  C.  From  this  point  it  is  carried  forward 
over  the  rollers  F,  G  and  H,  till  it  arrives  at  the  horizontal  position, 
■where  it  is  traversed  in  the  direction  of  the  arrow  through  the 
ravel  H',  suspended  from  above,  so  as  to  yield  to  any  impediment 
which  may  arise  in  the  warp,  and  forward,  between  the  stiffening 
rollers  I  I,  whence  it  proceeds  under  the  brushes  K,  and  is  taken  up 
on  the  warping  beam  of  the  loom,  as  in  the  ordinary  dressing  ma- 
chine. M,  is  the  driving  pulley,  and  motion  is  imparted  to  the  va- 
rious parts  in  the  common  way.  Now  it  is  well  known  to  weavers 
and  persons  conversant  with  the  preparation  of  warps  for  the  loom, 
that  the  adhesion  of  various  threads  of  sized  warp,  would  cause 
great  difficulty  in  passing  it  through  this  machine  with  any  degree 
of  regularity.  To  obviate  this  difficulty  and  separate  every  thread, 
two  rods  L  L,  are  passed  through  the  openings  of  the  lease  which 
has  been  secured  at  the  warping  machine,  as  best  seen  at  Fig.  1. 
These  rods  LL,  are  attached  to  the  shaft  or  rod  M',  (see  Fig.  2,) 
through  which  they  receive  an  alternating  motion  from  the  arm  N, 
which  is  vibrated  by  the  connecting  rod  O,  driven  from  an  eccentric 
on  the  face-plate  P,  as  seen  in  Fig.  1,  where  the  varying  position  of 
the  rods  L,  will  be  seen  dividing  the  threads  or  ends  of  the  warp  in 
its  progress  towards  the  rollers  1 1.  In  Fig.  4,  the  process  of  open- 
ing or  separating  each  thread  of  the  warp  is  effected  by  means  of 
the  two  blades  Q.  Q,,  which  move  on  centres  at  their  respective  ex- 
tremities, and  are  vibrated  by  the  arms  N  N,  as  in  Figs.  1  and  3. 
The  warp  in  a  sized  state,  being  placed  on  the  beam  R  (Fig.  3)  in 
the  ordinary  manner,  practised  with  sized  warps  and  held  back  by 
the  friction  strap  and  weight  R'  and  R'^,  which  gives  off  the  warp 
at  a  proper  tension  as  the  dressing  proceeds.  The  vibrations  of  the 
rods  L  L  (Figs.  1  and  2)  and  the  blades  Q,  Q  (Fig.  4)  in  these  ma- 
chines depend  on  the  revolution  of  the  eccentric  P  (Fig.  4,)  which 
may  be  driven  at  a  speed  of  210  revolutions  per  minute  ;  but  the 
speed  may  be  varied  according  to  the  nature  of  the  work  in  the 
machine. 

Fig.  5,  represents  an  elevation  ;  Fig.  6,  a  plan  ;  and  Fig.  7,  a 
side  view  of  a  machine  for  forming  the  warp  on  a  beam  previous  to 
the  sizing  process.  In  this  machine,  S  (Figs.  5  and  6)  represents  a 
cone  drum,  which  is  driven  by  means  of  a  strap,  the  velocity  vary- 
ing according  to  the  diameter  on  which  the  strap  is  placed.  On  the 
extremity  of  the  shaft  on  which  the  cone  S  is  fixed,  is  attached  a 


340  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

spur-wheel  T  (Figs.  5  and  6,)  which  drives  the  spur-wheel  U,  fixed 
on  the  end  of  the  shaft  V,  carrpng  a  succession  of  small  beams  W, 
divided  by  the  flanges.  On  to  these  beams  W,  the  warp  is  received 
from  the  heck  X,  as  seen  at  Fig.  5,  and  regularly  distributed 
by  means  of  a  small  ravel  X',  which  is  traversed  by  a  worm 
and  worm-wheel,  as  shown  in  Fig.  6,  and  in  side  view  at  Fig.  7, 
where  the  direction  of  the  yarn  will  be  seen  passing  over  the  guide 
roller  X**,  and  under  the  roller  X^,  and  thence  to  the  beam  W  (Fig. 
7.)  at  the  same  time  that  it  is  compressed  into  a  hard  state  by  the 
cylinder  Y,  which  acts  as  a  pressing  roller  during  the  operation. 
This  pressing  roller  Y,  along  with  the  arms  in  which  it  is  supported, 
move  freely  on  the  rod  Z  Z  (Figs.  5  and  6.)  so  that  as  soon  as  the 
first  small  beam  W,  is  full,  the  operator  raises  the  presser  Y,  and 
passes  it  forward  to  the  next,  aad  so  on  till  the  whole  series  of 
beams  W,  are  filled  and  equally  pressed,  at  the  same  time  securing  a 
lease  in  the  yarn  of  each  beam,  as  already  alluded  to,  for  the  action 
of  the  rods  L  L,  or  Q.  Q,  in  the  dressing  machine.  It  will  be  also 
remarked  that  the  heck  X,  is  moved  in  the  frame  in  which  it  is 
supported,  so  as  at  all  times  to  correspond  with  the  position  of  the 
presser  Y,  when  placed  on  any  of  the  various  beams  W,  in  the  pro- 
cess of  fining.  Returning  to  the  cone  shaft  which  carries  the  wheel 
T,  will  be  seen  a  small  worm  a,  driving  a  worm-wheel  on  the  up- 
right shaft  b  (Fig.  5,)  which  is  also  provided  with  a  worm  driving  a 
worm-wheel  on  the  horizontal  recording  shaft  c.  This  shaft  c,  car- 
ries two  circular  discs  d  and  e,  the  position  of  which  will  be  seen  ia 
Fig.  6.  The  disc  d,  is  provided  with  a  small  lever  which  rests 
upon  it  during  the  winding  process  of  the  cone  S,  and  the  speed  of 
the  disc  d,  is  so  calculated  as  to  make  one  revolution  during  the 
winding  on,  or  filling  one  of  the  beams  W,  with  warp,  but  when 
that  is  effected  a  notch  or  gap  in  the  disc  d,  allows  the  lever  f,  to 
fall  by  means  of  the  weight  /'  (Fig.  5)  which  tightening  a  strap- 
break  on  the  pulley  g;  placed  on  the  cone  shaft,  arrests  the  revolu- 
tion, and  thereby  distributes  an  equal  quantity  of  warp  on  the  va- 
rious beams  W,  as  they  are  filled  in  succession.  The  disc  e,  is  pro- 
vided with  a  series  of  notches  or  gaps,  and  supports  a  lever  h,  which 
acts  on  the  marking  rod  ?',  by  means  of  a  spring  o.  placed  on  the 
perpendicular  rod  by  which  the  weight  m,  is  supported  (see  Fig.  6.) 
The  extremity  of  the  opposite  arm  of  the  rod  i,  passes  under  the 
edge  of  the  warp,  and  is  provided  with  fibrous  material,  saturated 
with  marking  ink  which  marks  the  warp  every  time  the  lever  h,  is 
allowed  to  fall  into  one  of  the  notches  in  the  disc  e  'see  Fig.  5.)  into 
which  it  is  forced  by  the  weight  m,  at  the  same  time  the  marking 


SIZING.  341 

rod  i,  having  made  the  mark,  is  replaced  in  its  former  position  on  a 
stud  or  rest,  by  the  action  of  a  spiral  spring  o  (Fig.  5,)  the  mark  on 
the  warp,  indicating  a  uniform  and  equal  amount  of  warp  placed 
on  the  beam  W.  The  distance  of  the  notches  on  the  disc  e  (Fig.  5,) 
are  calculated  to  compensate  for  the  increasing  diameter  of  the  warp 
on  the  beam  W,  during  the  filling  process.  The  varying  taking  up 
of  the  warp  on  to  these  beams  W,  according  to  their  increased  cir- 
cumference, is  compensated  for  by  traversing  the  driving  strap  to  a 
larger  diaineter  of  the  cone  S  (Figs.  5  and  6,)  and  the  velocity  must 
depend  on  the  nature  of  the  work  and  the  judgment  of  the  opera- 
tor. By  tracing  the  action  of  this  warping  machine,  it  will  be  obvi- 
ous that  the  beams  W,  may  be  multiplied  to  any  convenient  extent, 
and  consequently  the  length  of  the  warp,  which  necessarily  effects  a 
great  saving  in  joining  or  twisting  in,  as  practised  in  the  ordinary 
warp. 

In  Fig.  6,  it  will  easily  be  perceived,  that  motion  is  transferred 
from  the  cone  drum  S,  to  the  yarn  beams  W,  by  the  spur  wheels 
T  and  U.  The  notched  disc  e,  is  left  out  in  the  plan  view  (Fig.  6,) 
to  avoid  confusion,  and  more  clearly  to  show  the  levers  e'  and  d, 
weight  m,  and  marker  i.  Should  the  marking  apparatus  shown  in 
Figs.  5  and  6,  be  considered  too  complicated,  one  of  those  in  com- 
mon use  may  be  easily  substituted  in  stead. 

We  now  pass  on  to  describe  Messrs.  Hornby  and  Kennyvvorthy's 
machine  for  sizing  and  preparing  warps  for  the  loom ;  which,  from 
its  neatness,  the  regularity  of  its  motions  and  the  work  Avhich  it  is 
capable  of  performing,  is  well  worth}'^  our  attention  in  this  place. 

The  improvements  in  this  machine,  consist  in  a  novel  and  parti- 
cular arrangement  of  mechanism  for  sizing  and  preparing  warps 
from  "  beam  or  machine  warping." 

The  principal  feature  of  novelty  and  improvement  in  Messrs.  H. 
and  K's.  method  of  sizing  or  dressing  warps,  consists  in  a  pecuhar 
mode  of  distributing  or  laying  out  of  the  threads,  so  that  they  shall 
be  dressed  or  sized  in  parallel  strips  or  breadths,  laid  in  even  and 
close  contact,  side  by  side,  and  usually  termed  "  beers  or  half  beers" 
in  the  ordinary  warping  mill.  (See  common  warping  mill.  Section 
First.) 

This  new  method  of  dividing  and  laying  out  the  warp  threads 
into  strips,  bands,  or  beers  and  half  beers,  during  the  process  of 
sizing  and  preparing  them  for  the  loom,  possesses  many  advan- 
tages, which  will  be  evident  to  persons  conversant  with  the  ordinary 
modes  of  conducting  such  operations.  As  the  threads  are  divided 
into  certain  numbers,  forming  a  beer  or  half  beer,  and   in  that 


34'^  THE    ART    OF    WEAVIXG. 

breadth  passed  through  the  sizing  substance,  tney  retain  the  form 
of  bands  or  strips,  and  are  sUghtly  attached  to  each  other  by  the 
adhesion  of  the  size,  thus  forming  narrow  tapes  or  breadths  of  warp 
threads,  and  consequently  rendering  them  more  tenacious  than  if 
passed  through  the  sizing  and  preparing  process  in  single  threads, 
as  commonly  done,  and  allowing  them  to  be  more  easily  conducted 
through  the  machinery.  The  warps  may  be  thus  extended  to  a 
much  greater  length  than  usual,  and  the  process  of  taking  the 
"  lease''  and  winding  on  to  the  warp  beam  ready  for  '•  looming," 
can  be  effected  by  the  arrangement  of  one  and  the  same  machine, 
with  more  expedition  than  by  the  ordinary  method  now  in  use. 

One  of  tlie  improvements  connected  with  the  working  of  the  ma- 
chinery, is  a  new  arrangement  of  the  headles  for  obtaining  the 
lease  or  cross  shed  of  the  warps,  previously  to  the  dressing,  sizing, 
or  drying  of  the  same,  that  is  placing  the  lieadles,  for  dividing  the 
shed  of  the  warps,  at  the  entrance  end  of  the  machine,  or  at  the 
commencement  of  the  operation  ;  and  the  further  improvements  in 
the  machinery  for  sizing  and  preparing  warps,  consist  in  a  novel 
forin  of  ravel  or  comb,  for  allowing  the  lease  band  to  pass  through 
the  warps  without  the  necessity  of  having  the  whole  of  the  half 
beers  or  breadth  relaid  each  time  of  taking  such  lease  or  cross  shed  ; 
and  also  in  the  application  of  a  revolving  self-acting  Tnarker,  for 
marking  off  any  required  length  of  warps,  as  they  are  wound  on  to 
the  warp  beam,  ready  for  looming. 

In  Plate  IV,  Fig.  1  represents  a  plan  or  horizontal  view  of  the 
machinery  in  which  these  improvements  are  shown ;  Fig.  2.  is  a 
side  elevation  ;  and  Fig.  3.  a  vertical  section  of  the  same,  taken  lon- 
gitudinally through  the  middle  of  the  machine.  The  main  and 
side  framings  of  the  machinery  are  shown  at  a,  a,  a,  a,  which  sup- 
port the  beams  of  warp  or  yarn  b,  ^,  b,  b,  b,  previously  wound  and 
prepared  by  the  warping  machine :  these  main  side  frames  also 
support  the  various  ravels  or  combs,  headles.  sizing  or  dressing 
trough,  the  drying  cylinders,  tension  and  guide  rollers,  and  also  the 
driving  apparatus  for  giving  motion  to  the  mechanism. 

It  %vill  be  perceived;  that  as  the  unsized  warps  proceed  from  their 
respective  beams  b,  b,  b.  b,  b,  they  are  guided  on  to,  and  passed 
through  an  ordinary  ravel  or  comb  c,  c,  and  thus  divided  equally, 
prior  to  their  being  passed  through  the  headles  d.  d,  situated  at  the 
entrance  of  the  machine,  for  the  purpose  of  effecting  the  cross  shed, 
and  thereby  taking  the  lease  previously  to  the  yarns  being  submit- 
ted to  the  sizing  process.  The  lease  now  being  taken,  and  the  cross 
band  or  threads  introduced,  for  the  purpose  of  looming  or  drawing 


SIZING.  343 

in  of  the  warp  through  the  headles,  as  is  well  understood,  the  yarns 
or  warps  are  passed  through  a  ravel  or  comb  e,  (see  Figs.  1  and  2,) 
formed  by  a  rack  of  teeth  or  pins  and  intervening  spaces,  for  the 
purpose  of  dividing  and  laying  the  warps  in  parallel  breadths,  side 
by  side,  and  forming  each  division,  strip  or  band  of  warps,  (of  any 
required  number,)  into  separate  and  distinct  tapes  or  sheets,  (of  any 
desired  width,)  each  thread  being  laid  parallel,  side  by  side ;  and 
thus,  in  close  lateral  contact,  the  ravel  or  comb  e,  either  being  al- 
lowed to  vibrate  or  oscillate  freely  as  the  warps  proceed  over  it,  or  it 
may  be  caused  to  revolve,  if  found  more  desirable. 

The  continuous  warps  being  thus  made  or  separated  into  breadths 
or  bands  A,  are  now  passed  over  a  conducting  roller,  and  immersed 
into  the  trough  or  vessel  /  (see  Fig.  3,)  which  contains  the  sizing 
material,  and  is  to  be  kept  in  a  heated  state,  by  steam  passing 
through  the  pipe  g,  g,  or  otherwise,  and  thus  boiled  into  the  warps 
as  they  pass  through  it,  and  under  the  tension  rollers  h,  h,  (see  Figs. 
1  and  3) :  it  will  be  observed  that  these  tension  rollers  h,  h,  may  be 
adjusted  to  any  degree  of  tension,  or  raised  up  entirely  out  of  the 
troughs,  to  be  cleaned  or  otherwise,  by  turning  the  winch  handle  11 
(see  Figs.  1  and  2.)  which,  by  means  of  the  worms  and  wheels  12, 
and  pinions  13,  13,  take  into  the  racks  14,  14,  in  connection  with 
whicli  the  pivots  of  the  rollers  h,  h,  are  mounted.  The  warps  are 
then  to  be  passed  forward  through  a  pair  of  squeezing  rollers,  i,  i, 
(Figs.  2  and  3)  and  again  immersed  in  the  trough  or  vessel  j  (see 
Fig.  3,)  containing  a  similar  sizing  preparation,  to  finish  the  yarns ; 
fi-om  thence  the  warp  is  passed  around  the  drying  cyUnders  k,  k, 
(Figs.  2  and  3)  also  heated  by  steam  through  the  pipe  g,  and  dis- 
charged by  the  pipes  /,  I,  or  by  any  other  convenient  means.  The 
yarn  or  warps,  as  they  pass  around  these  drying  cylinders,  will  now 
be  found  to  assume  the  form  of  tapes  or  bands,  as  the  sizing  mate- 
rial will  cause  the  parallel  threads,  as  they  lay  side  by  side,  to  ad- 
here slightly  together,  and  thus  proceed  in  a  tape-Uke  form,  being 
of  course  much  stronger,  more  regular,  and  less  likely  to  be  broken 
or  disarranged,  than  in  the  ordinary  mode  of  sizing. 

A  brush  15  (Figs.  1,  2  and  3,)  is  placed  over  the  yarns  as  they 
proceed  over  the  cylinders  k,  for  the  purpose  of  dressing  and  laying 
the  fibres  of  the  threads,  and  making  the  tapes  or  bands  more  com- 
pact and  even  :  it  is  caused  to  revolve  very  slowly  by  means  of 
the  small  band  16  (Fig.  2,)  proceeding  upon  the  axis  of  the  guide 
roller  m,  (Figs.  1  and  2 ;)  the  warps  now  proceed  in  a  sized,  dried, 
and  finished  state,  conducted  by  the  rollers  m.v},  through  a  similar 
ravel  or  comb  ii,  w,  (Figs.  1  and  2,)  but  of  a  finer  rake  or  pitch 


344  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

than  the  ravel  e,  c,  and  by  passing  through  or  over  which,  the  strips 
or  bands  are  turned  edgewise,  and  again  similarly  dividing  by  the 
oscillating  or  vibratory  action  of  this  comb  n,  7i,  and  laid  over  the 
tension  roller  o,  o,  (Figs.  1,  2  and  3,)  in  a  proper  state  to  be  received 
and  wound  upon  the  warp  beam  p,  ready  to  be  removed  and  taken 
to  the  loomer  or  drawer  in.     The  continuous  operation  of  the  ma- 
chinery is  effected  by  means  of  a  strap  passing  around  the  driving 
pulley  q,  (see  Figs.  1,  2  and  3,)  upon  the  end  of  the  transverse 
shaft  r  (Fig.  1,)  being  traversed  from  the  loose  pulley  by  the  setting 
on  rod  s.     Upon  the  shaft  r,  is  also  a  conical  drum  t,  having  a  driv- 
ing strap  passing  around  it,  and  the  corresponding  cone  ii,  (Figs.  1 
and  2,)  mounted  also  upon  a  transverse  shaft  v,  at  one  end  of  which 
there  is  a  toothed  pinion  w,  (Fig.  1,)  driving  the  train  of  spur  wheels 
.T;  y,  z,  which  gives  rotary  motion  to  the  warp  beam  ]),  causing  it  to 
wind  on  the  yarn  or  warps  as  required.     The  yarn  is  kept  dis- 
tended and  even,  by  means  of  weighted  friction  bands  being  passed 
around  the  ends  of  the  warp  beams  b,  b,  and  the  pressure  of  the 
squeezers   or   pressor   rollers,    is   similarly   adjusted,  by  means   of 
the  weighted  lever  2  (Fig.  2.)     The  self-acting  marking  appara- 
tus is  shown  in  Fig,  1 ;   upon   the   end  of  the  revolving   guide 
roller   o,  o,  is  a  small  worm  3,  taking  into  a  worm  wheel  upon 
the  end  of  the  shaft  4,  at  the  reverse  end  of  which  is  the  mitre 
wheel  5,  driving  a  corresponding  wheel  6,  upon  the  small  shaft 
7,  which  carries  the  revolving  marker  8,  which  from  time  to  time 
dips  into  a  colour  box,  and  marks  the  warp  threads  with  a  patch  of 
colour  as  it  revolves,  any  length  for  the  pieces  intended  to  be  woven, 
and  allowing  the  warp  beam  to  contain  accurate  lengths,  without 
waste  in  the  looming. 

In  the  detached  Figs.  4,  5  and  6,  are  shown  three  varieties  of  the 
improved  ravel  or  comb,  (upon  a  large  scale,)  for  dividing  or  separa- 
ting the  warp,  as  they  pass  through  the  machine.  Fig.  4  shows 
one  description,  being  that  preferred  to  be  used  with  a  pendulous  or 
oscillating  motion  ;  Fig.  5,  another,  which  is  preferred  to  be  used  as 
a  rotary  comb,  and  it  will  be  perceived,  that  one  set  or  rake  of  teeth 
will  always  be  entering  and  dividing  the  warps,  as  those  on  the  op- 
posite leave  them ;  Fig.  6  shows  another  modification  of  the  same, 
which  may  either  be  used  with  a  rotary  or  any  other  required 
motion. 

If  our  manufacturing  friends  shall  derive  any  real  benefit  from 
the  description  just  given  of  these  improved  machines  for  preparing 
warps  for  the  loom,  we  will  not  grudge  the  expense  incnired  on  our 
part  in  rendering  all  the  particulars  as  plain  as  possible. 


INSERT  FOLDOUT  HERE 


SECTION   TENTH. 


PLAIN  WEAVING  BY  POWER. 

Now  the  steam  begins  to  blow ; 
Girl,  haste,  your  loom  attend ; 
Do  not  always  be  so  slow, 
Or  your  web  will  have  no  end. 

Stay  no  longer  idly  singing : 
You're  a  pretty  girl,  indeed ! 
Hark  !  the  factory  bell  is  ringing ! 
Mary,  to  your  loom  with  speed  ! 

See  the  shafts  begin  to  move, 
Driven  by  the  power  of  steam ; 
Wheels  below  and  wheels  above 
Turn  correctly  every  beam. 

Force  is  constantly  supplied, 
Brought  by  straps  of  leather  strong ; 
Levers  play  on  every  side, 
While  the  shuttle  shoots  along. 

See  how  fast  the  lay  is  driven; 
See  the  treadles  sink  and  rise; 
See  how  well  the  cloth  is  woven ; 
Gracious !  how  the  shuttle  flies  ! 

Brien  Dhd  O'Fahrell. 

We  shall  not  in  this  place  give  any  repetition  of  the  old  hacknied 
story  regarding  the  origin  of  the  power  loom  (in  Europe),*  by  Mr. 
Edmund  Cartwaight,  of  Marnham,  Nottinghajiishire ;  and  for 
which  he  obtained  a  patent,  bearing  date  4th  April,  1785.  It  is 
certain  that  this  machine  would  have  long  since  passed  into  oblivion, 
had  it  not  been  for  the  improvements  made  upon  it  by  other  men 
of  genius.  It  was  not  until  the  year  ISOl  that  power  loom  weav- 
ing began  to  be  extensively  introduced  for  the  manufacture  of  plain 
goods  ;  and  not  until  the  years  1830  to  1834  that  it  was  successfully 
applied  to  Ught  fancy  fabrics,  with  small  patterns,  (say,  of  from  10  to 

*  For  the  true  origin  of  power  loom  weaving  (plain,  tweeled  and  figured, 
of  every  description)  see  introduction  to  this  work,  page  5,  20  to  37,  and  64. 

44 


346 


THE    ART    CF    WEAVING. 


75  changes  of  design.)  Since  1834,  it  has  been  still  further  im- 
proved by  various  ingenious  individuals,  both  in  Europe  and  Ameri- 
ca, so  as  to  make  it  available  in  tlie  manufacture  of  almost  every 
description  of  figured  textures,  whether  of  cotton,  silk,  linen  or  wool. 
In  the  present  section,  we  shall  confine  ourself  to  laying  before  our 
readers  its  application  to  the  weaving  of  plain  fabrics. 

Fig,  155. 


Fig.  155  shows  a  side  view  in  elevation  of  the  power  loom,  as 
constructed  by  Messrs.  Sharp,  Roberts  &.  Co.,  Manchester ;  but  as 
their  machine  contauis  no  particular  feature  of  novelty,  we  shall  not 
waste  much  time  upon  it.  Fig.  156  is  a  section  of  the  same  taken 
through  the  centre,  showing  the  interior  working  parts  of  the  ma- 
chine. 

A  is  the  frame  work  of  the  loom  ;  B,  belt  pulleys  (Fig.  155 ;)  C, 
fly  wheel  for  equalizing  irregularities  of  motion  during  the  working 
of  the  machine :    D  (Fig.  156,)  driving  spur-wheel,  fixed  on  the 


PLAIN    WEAVING. 


347 


crank  shaft  E,  and  gearing  into  the  wheel  F ;  this  wheel  F,  has 
double  the  number  of  teeth  of  the  spur  wheel  D,  and  consequently 
makes  only  half  as  many  revolutions :  it  is  keyed,  or  made  fast,  on 
the  end  of  the  cam  shaft  G ;  and  it  is  by  means  of  this  shaft,  in 
connexion  with  suitable  tappets  and  levers,  that  motion  is  commu- 
nicated to  the  headles  for  the  purpose  of  shedding  the  warp,  as  well 
as  for  giving  motion  to  the  shuttle.  The  cranks  of  the  driving  shaft 
are  connected  to  the  swords  of  the  lay  by  arms  H  (see  Fig.  155.)  The 
cams  J  J,  give  motion  to  the  treadles  K  K,  which  work  the  headles 
J  J,  as  will  be  seen  very  plainly  in  Fig.  156.     The  yarn  beam  is 

Pig.  156. 


weighted  in  the  ordinary  manner  used  for  coarse  goods,  namely,  by 
passing  a  rope  round  the  circumference  of  each  end,  to  which  rope 
a  jfriction  weight  M,  is  attached.  The  cloth  roller  and  take-up  motion 
(as  any  practical  manufacturer  will  perceive)  possess  no  feature  of 
novelty,  consisting  merely  of  a  spur  wheel  N,  working  into  a  pinion 


348 


THE    ART    OF    -WEAVING. 


O,  which  pinion  is  made  fast  to  the  ratchet  wheel  P,  and  this  wheel 
receives  motion  from  the  chcks  or  drivers  Q,  by  means  of  the  arm 
R,  this  arm  receiving  motion  from  the  stud-pin  S,  fixed  in  the 
sword  of  the  lay  L.  The  shuttle  is  thrown  by  means  of  two  levers 
T  (one  of  which  is  seen  in  Fig.  155  and  the  other  in  Fig.  156,) 
connected  at  bottom  with  the  horizontal  shafts  V.  motion  being 
communicated  to  these  shafts  by  a  wiper  V,  working  against  the 
iron  shoe  or  slide  W,  (see  Fig.  155.)  The  shoes  or  shdes  W,  are 
bolted  to  the  side  of  the  horizontal  shafts  U  (one  at  each  side  of  the 
machine)  at  X.  The  picker  staves  or  levers  T,  are  recovered  to  tlieir 
original  positions,  alternately,  after  having  thrown  the  shuttle  through 
the  shed,  by  means  of  a  leather  strap  and  spiral  spring  ^  hich  con- 
nects the  horizontal  shafts  U  U,  together  across  the  machine ;  the 
position  of  one  end  of  this  leather  strap,  as  bolted  to  the  horizontal 
shaft  U,  will  be  seen  at  Y,  in  both  Figs.  The  shaft  U,  has  suitable 
bearings  at  each  end,  which  are  indicated  by  the  dotted  lines  in  Fig. 
155,  and  at  Z.  Fig.  156.  The  protector  A'^,  as  seen  in  both  these 
Figs,  is  of  the  ordinary  construction.  This  form  of  the  power  loom 
being  unworthy  of  further  notice,  we  shall,  therefore,  pass  on  to  de- 
scribe others  of  greater  merit  proceeding  gradually  until  we  arrive 
at  the  most  perfect. 

Fig.  157. 


PLAIN    WEAVING. 


349 


Figs.  157, 158,  159  and  160,  show  the  different  parts  of  a  loom, 
as  improved  by  Messrs.  Apelles  Howard,  of  Stockport,  and  John 
Scattergood,  of  Manchester. 

Fig.  157  is  a  back  view  of  the  common  loom ;  Fig.  158,  a  side 
view,  in  which  part  of  the  framing  is  removed  for  the  purpose  of 
making  the  application  of  the  improvements  more  obvious  ;  and  Fig. 
159,  a  view  of  the  improvements  apart  from  the  loom,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  showing  more  clearly  the  nature  and  construction  of  the 
same.  In  Figs.  157  and  158,  some  of  the  ordinary  parts  of  the 
loom  are  omitted,  and  only  such  parts  delineated  as  we  consider  re- 
quisite to  explain  and  show  the  position  in  which  the  improvements 
are  applied. 

In  Fig.  157,  A,  represents  the  driving  pulley  keyed  on  the 
crank  shaft,  which  gives  motion  to  the  lay  ;  B,  the  yarn  beam ; 
D,  Fig.  158,  the  cloth  roller ;  and  C,  the  tappet  shaft  by  which 
the  position  of  the  headles  is  regulated,  thereby  producing  the 
shed  or  opening  in  the  warp  for  the  passage  of  the  shuttle  at  each 
vibration  of  the  lay.     In  Figs.  157  and  158,  E  represents  a  shaft 

Fig.  158. 


supported  at  each  side  of  the  loom,  parallel  to,  and  immediately 
above  the  yarn  beam  B :  on  this  shaft  is  made  fast  two  arms  F,  and 
F'.  The  extremity  of  the  arm  F,  carries  a  shaft  G,  similar  to  that 
marked  E,  and  crossing  the  loom  in  the  same  way :  the  shaft  E 


350 


THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 


moves  freely  on  its  axis.  The  direction  of  the  warp  threads  from 
the  yarn  beam  B,  will  be  seen  in  Figs.  158,  159  and  160,  proceed- 
ing first  over  the  shaft  or  roller  G,  and  under  the  shaft  E.  To  the 
arm  F',  is  suspended  a  small  lever  or  rod  which  supports  the  weight 
H,  as  best  seen  in  Figs.  158  and  159  ;  this  arm  also  carries  a  per- 
pendicular rod  i  L  which  moves  freely  through  an  opening  or  hole 
in  the  lever  K.  beneath  (Figs.  157  and  158.)  L.  represents  a  worm- 
wheel  attached  on  the  axis  of  the  yarn  beam  B ;  and  m,  a  worm 
or  screw  taking  into  the  wheel  L  (Figs.  157  and  158.)  On  the 
same  shaft  which  carries  the  worm  or  screw  7n,  is  placed  or  keyed 
the  ratchet  wheel  M,  and  also  the  vibrating  lever  K,  which  is  not 
keyed  but  perfectly  free,  shding  in  a  suitable  slot.  The  lever  K,  is 
provided  with  a  catch  or  dog  q,  taking  into  the  ratchet  wheel  M, 
(Fig.  157.)  and  at  the  other  extremity  with  a  rod  suspending  the 
counter  weight  N,  as  seen  in  Fig.  158.  By  retracing  the  action 
of  the  various  parts  which  we  have  last  described,  it  ^ill  be  obvious 
that  any  amount  of  warp  can  be  given  off  by  revolving  the  yarn 
beam  B,  by  means  of  the  worm  m,  in  one  direction,  while  it  will 
be  taken  up  :  or.  the  reverse  will  be  produced  b}'  the  opposite  motion 
of  the  worm  rn  ;  and  further,  that  the  position  of  the  shaft  G,  will 
vary  or  vibrate  according  as  the  warp  is  taken  up.  or  given  off  by 
the  yarn  beam  B.  Suppose,  for  example,  the  warp  to  be  wound  up 
to  a  given  point,  by  means  of  the  small  handle  o,  the  shaft  G,  will 
assume  a  certain  position,  and  the  amount  of  tension  to  which  the 
warp  is  subjected  will  depend  upon  the  amount  of  counter  weight 
H,  which  has  a  constant  tendency  to  elevate  the  shaft  G,  as  best 
shown  at  Figs.  158  and  159.     Under  these  circumstances,  as  soon 

Fig.  160. 


as  the  loom  is  put  into  action  and  the  regular  vibration  of  the 
lay  proceeds,  the  cloth  which  is  produced  will  be  taken  up  on 
the  cloth    roller   D,    and    consequently   the   warp   which    passes 


PLAIN    WEAVING.  351 

over  the  shaft  G,  will  have  a  tendency  to  depress  that  shaft, 
although  the  tension  will  not  materially  vary,  on  account  of  the 
counter  weight  H,  always  remaining  the  same.  But  as  soon  as 
the  take-up  of  the  cloth  roller  has  proceeded  so  far  as  to  depress  the 
shaft  G,  to  the  position  indicated  by  the  letter  g^  (Fig.  159)  the  rod 
t,  I,  elevates  the  lever  K,  which  is  connected  to  the  catch  or 
dog  q  (Fig.  157,)  and  thereby  gathers  a  tooth  in  the  ratchet  M, 
which,  on  the  return  of  the  lay,  is  carried  forward  by  the  coun- 
ter weight  N,  and  actuates  the  yarn  beam  B,  which  gives  off  the 
amount  of  warp  required.  This  train  of  movement  is  shown  sepa- 
rate in  Fig.  159  ;  by  which,  together  with  the  foregoing  description, 
it  will  be  obvious  that  the  regular  take-up  of  the  cloth  on  the  roller 
D,  as  it  is  produced,  is  provided  for  by  a  commensurate  giving  off  of 
warp  from  the  beam  B,  caused  by  the  depression  or  varied  position 
of  the  shaft  G,  as  already  explained.  In  weaving  cloth  of  a  fine 
quaUty,  the  arrangement  represented  at  Fig.  160  will  act  rather 
more  uniformly  than  that  already  described.  In  this  figure,  the  ar- 
rangement of  parts  does  not  vary  from  that  already  stated,  except- 
ing that  in  the  place  of  the  weight  N,  and  vibrating  lever  K,  the 
catch  or  dog  q,  is  placed  on  a  stationary  fulcrum  x^  and  the  rod  ?,  i, 
is  carried  downwards  and  attached  by  a  small  spring  to  the  lever 
y,  which  moves  freely  on  a  fixed  fulcrum  at  z.  This  lever  y, 
is  placed  under  the  tappet  shaft  C,  and  when  a  sufiicient  quantity 
of  yarn  is  given  off  from  the  beam  B,  the  small  wiper  r,  does  not 
interfere  with  it,  but  as  soon  as  the  rod  G,  is  depressed  by  the  tight- 
ening of  the  warp,  as  already  described,  the  lever  y,  is  raised  and 
comes  in  contact  with  the  wiper  r,  which  immediately  depresses  it, 
and  rotates  the  ratchet  wheel  M,  by  means  of  the  band  and  tight- 
ening weight  S,  with  which  it  is  connected ;  this  band  being  passed 
round  the  small  drum  or  barrel  placed  on  the  same  shaft  that  sup- 
ports the  ratchet  M. 

The  shafts  G,  and  E,  should  be  well  polished,  so  that  the  wai-p 
yarn,  in  passing  under  and  over  them,  may  not  be  chafed. 

This  contrivance,  for  giving  off  warp  yarn  and  actuating  the 
taking- up  of  the  cloth,  does  not  possess  any  particular  feature  of 
novelty  which  we  can  recommend,  in  a  practical  point  of  view,  to 
the  cotton  manufacturer.  For  the  manufacture  of  silk  goods 
the  shafts  G,  and  E,  might  be  used  with  advantage,  provided 
that  another  shaft,  similar  to  that  marked  G,  was  inserted  at 
the  point  of  the  arm  F',  cutting  away  the  connecting  rod  i  i, 
and  all  the  other  parts  of  the  apparatus  shown  in  the  Figs. 
These  three  shafts,  acting  on  the  warp  threads,  would  keep  them 


352  THE    ART    OP    WEAVING. 

equally  tight  on  both  sides  of  the  shed  ;  which  will  be  obvious  after 
a  word  of  explanation. 

Suppose,  for  example,  that  the  warp,  in  coming  from  the  beam 
B,  is  passed  over  the  shaft  G,  under  the  shaft  E,  and  over  that 
fixed  at  the  point  F',  and  from  thence  into  the  headles  ;  it  is  evi- 
dent, that  while  the  shed  is  forming,  the  rollers  at  the  extremities  of 
the  arms  F,  and  F',  will  be  raised  or  depressed  in  proportion  to  the 
strain  caused  by  the  shedding  of  the  warp,  the  vibratory  action  al- 
ways compensating  by  yielding  at  the  point  where  the  greatest 
strain  is  caused,  that  is  to  say,  when  the  shed  is  full  open,  as 
shown  in  the  Figs.,  and  acting  as  a  distender  on  the  warp  in  pro- 
portion as  the  shed  closes  after  the  passage  of  the  shuttle  (taking 
up  the  slack.)  Looms  mounted  with  this  contrivance,  in  connec- 
tion with  the  vibrating  reed  take-up  motion,  shown  at  Fig.  169, 
would,  we  have  no  doubt,  be  found  advantageous  in  weaving 
delicate  yarns.     (See  Figs.  219  and  220.) 

"Nature  in  her  productions  slow,  aspires 
By  just  degrees  to  reach  perfection's  height : 
So  mimic  art  works  leisurely,  till  time 
Improve  the  price,  or  wise  experience  give 
The  proper  finishing." 

Manufacturers  have,  as  is  well  known,  experienced  great  inconve- 
nience in  regulating  the  relative  motions  of  the  yarn  and  cloth  rol- 
lers in  the  loom  ;  and  although  many  attempts  have  been  made  to 
remedy  this  evil,  yet  for  the  most  part  they  have  totally  failed  in 
accomplishing  the  desired  object.  The  few  that  have  partially  suc- 
ceeded, have  been  attended  with  so  much  expense  as  to  prevent 
their  coming  into  general  use.  The  improvement  now  offered  is 
such  that  it  can  be  added  to  power  looms  of  all  descriptions  at  a 
very  trifling  expense,  and  we  think  will  completely  remedy  the  evil, 
at  least  so  far  as  cotton  stuffs  are  concerned.  If  found  available  we 
shall  be  glad,  as  it  first  originated  with  us  in  the  year  1835,  but  a 
patent  for  which  was  granted  to  Mr.  Edwin  Bottomley,  of  South 
Crossland,  in  the  parish  of  Almonbury,  county  of  York,  clothier, 
bearing  date  Sept.  30th,  1838,  prior  to  which  date  we  tested  the  in- 
vention for  over  two  years  at  M.  Phihppe's  machine  shop,  19  Rue 
Chateau  Landon,  Paris,  France. 

In  these  drawings  the  same  letters  of  reference  indicate  the  same 
parts. 

Fig.  161,  represents  a  back  elevation  of  a  loom  of  the  ordinary 
construction,  to  which  the  improvements  are  apphed  ;  Fig.  162,  is 


PLAIN    WEAVING. 


353 


a  side  view  of  the  same  ;  Fig.  163,  is  a  plan  of  the  improved  me- 
chanism, and  Fig.  164,  a  side  view  of  it. 


Fiff.  161. 


The  yarn  beam  A,  is  placed  in  the  nsual  position,  and  contains 
the  warp  which  passes  over  the  roller  B  :  after  the  warp  is  woven 
it  passes  over  the  breast  beam  C  (Fig.  162)  and  is  taken  upon 
the  cloth  roller  D.  On  the  shaft  E  (Fig.  163)  is  placed  a  cylindri- 
cal eccentric  F  F,  which  imparts  alternating  movement  to  the  forked 
piece  G  G.  This  forked  piece  G  G,  embraces  the  eccentric  F  F  ; 
and  its  arm  or  connecting  bar  is  provided  with  a  slot  through 
which  one  of  the  arms  of  the  bell-crank  lever  H  H,  passes  (Fig.  163.) 
To  the  opposite  arm  of  the  Ijell-crank  lever  H  H,  is  attached  the 
connecting  rod  I ;  and  this  rod  communicates  motion  to  the  lever  J, 
which  vibrates  on  the  centre  of  the  upright  shaft  K.  The  lever  J, 
is  furnished  with  a  small  stud  or  pin  in  which  the  pinion  L,  and 
also  the  ratchet  wheel  M,  revolve ;  these  wheels,  being  connected 
with  each  other,  the  small  pinion  L,  is  geared  into  the  spur-wheel  N 
(Fig.  163,)  fixed  to  the  shaft  K  (see  Fig.  161.)  To  this  shaft  is  also 
keyed  the  worm  O,  which  actuates  the  worm-wheel  P,  and  conse- 
quently the  yarn  beam  A,  on  the  axis  of  which  the  worm-wheel  P, 

45 


354 


THE    ART    OF    AVEAVING. 


is  placed.  Thus  the  rotation  of  the  shaft  E,  imparts  to  the  yam 
beam  a  giving  off  motion,  in  a  ratio  corresponding  with  the  number 
of  vibrations  of  the  lay  :  but  it  is  obvious  that  a  greater  length  of 
warp  yarn  would  be  given  off  the  larger  diameter  of  a  full  beam 
than  where  the  diameter  is  reduced  :  hence  it  is  required  that  the 
yarn  beam  increase  its  speed  of  rotation  as  the  diameter  becomes 
less,  thereby  insuring  an  equal  quantity  of  warp  given  off  at  each 
beat  of  the  reed  against  the  cloth,  whatever  may  be  the  diameter  of 
the  yarn  beam. 


We  shall  now  proceed  to  describe  how  the  required  increase  of 
speed  to  the  yarn  beam  A.  is  effected.  A  small  roller  of  wood  or 
other  suitable  material  Q,  is  supported,  as  shown  in  Fig.  161,  by  a 
sliding-piece  R.  moving  freely  in  a  slot  in  the  frame-work  of  the 
loom,  as  shown  in  Figs.  161,  163  and  164  :  fixed  to  this  support,  is 
a  rack  continuing  downwards  and  working  into  the  pinion  S, 
(Fig.  163)  at  the  opposite  extremity  of  which  is  another  pinion  T, 
(Fig.  161)  working  into  the  rack  attached  to  the  sliding  carriage  U. 
On  the  shaft  R,  (Figs.  162,  163  and  164)  is  a  small  pulley  provided 
with  a  cord,  to  which  is  suspended  a  weight,  for  the  purpose  of 


PLAIN    WEAVING. 


355 


keeping  the  roller  Q,,  constantly  pressing  against  the  under  side  of 
the  yarn,  as  shown  in  Fig.  161.  By  this  contrivance,  the  reduc- 
tion in  the  diameter  of  the  warp  on  the  yarn  beam,  as  it  is  con- 
sumed in  the  weaving  process,  allows  the  roller  Q,  to  rise,  which 
conveys  a  traverse  motion  to  the  carriage  U,  in  the  direction  of  the 


Ficr.  103 


arrow,  Fig.  163,  and  brings  it  nearer  to  the  centre  or  fulcrum  of 
the  bell-crank  lever  H  H,  which  has  the  effect  of  increasing  the 
range  or  space  through  which  the  opposite  arm  of  the  lever  vibrates, 
and  thus  producing  an  increased  vibration  in  the  lever  J,  by  means 
of  the  connecting  rod  I,  which  by  means  of  the  dog  or  catch  V, 
(Fig.  163)  gathers  more  teeth  in  the  ratchet  wheel  M,  and  conse- 
quently increases  the  speed  of  revolution  of  the  yarn  beam  A,  there- 
by compensating  for  the  decreased  diameter,  as  already  explained, 
and  thus  an  equal  and  uniform  delivery  is  effected  during  the  whole 
of  the  weaving  process,  without  reference  to  the  length  of  the  warp 
that  may  be  rolled  on  the  yarn  beam.  On  the  arm  of  the  bell- 
Fig.  164. 


356 


THE    ART    OF   WEAVING. 


crank  lever  HH,  to  which  the  connecting  rod  I,  is  attached,  will  be 
seen  a  series  of  small  holes,  and  it  is  by  connecting  the  rod  I,  to  any 
one  of  these  holes,  either  nearer  or  further  from  tiie  fulcrum  of  the 
bell-crank  lever  H  H,  that  the  amount  of  vibration  of  the  take-up 
lever  J,  is  determined,  and  either  greater  or  less  amount  of  warp 
yarn  is  delivered  from  the  beam  after  each  vibration  of  the  lay,  ac- 
cording to  the  nature  of  the  fabric  to  be  woven. 

From  the  foregoing  explanation,  any  practical  power  loom  weaver 
will  have  no  difficulty  in  comprehending  the  improvement. 

Figs.  165,  166,  167  and  168,  represent  an  improved  power  loom 
for  weaving  light  textures,  invented  by  Araassa  Stone,  an  extremely 
ingenious  mechanic  of  Johnstone,  Rhode  Island.  By  means  of  this 
improvement,  whenever,  from  the  accidental  breaking  or  non- 
delivery of  the  weft,  the  striking  up  of  the  reed  meets  with  little  or 
no  resistance,  the  delivery  of  the  warp,  and  also  the  taking-up  of 
the  cloth,  is  suspended,  although  the  general  evolutions  of  the  loom 
continue. 


Fiff.  165. 


Z^ 


Fig.  165,  is  a  side  view  of  the  loom,  with  the  novel  parts  at- 
tached, and  in  working  order ;  Fig.  166,  is  a  profile  representation 
of  the  same,  showing  particularly  the  novel  parts ;  Fig.  167,  is  a 
vertical  section,  taken  through  the  loom  at  right  angles  to  Fig.  165, 


PLAIN   WEAVING. 


357 


in  the  line  looking  toward  the  cloth  beam ;  Fig.  168,  is  a  vertical 
section,  also  at  right  angles  to  Fig.  165,  in  the  line  looking  in  the 
opposite  direction,  that  is,  toward  the  warp  beam ;  and  No.  30, 
Fig.  167,  is  a  horizontal  view  of  a  portion  of  the  lay  of  the  loom, 
taken  at  that  end  where  the  improved  parts  are  connected  ;  the 
respective  letters  of  reference  pointing  out  the  same  parts  in  all  the 
figures. 

The  yarn  beam  A,  is  mounted  on  the  side  framing  of  the  loom 
in  the  usual  way.  From  this  beam  the  warp  threads  pass  over 
a  whip  roller  B,  above,  and  thence  through  the  headles  C,  C, 
and  reed  D,  in  the  ordinary  way.  The  reed  is  mounted  in 
the  lay  in  a  frame,  which  is  capable  of  vibrating  on  pivots  or 
centres,  for  the  purpose  of  allowing  the  reed  to  fall  back  when 
it  strikes  forcibly  against  the  weft  thread  in  beating  up.  The 
cloth  produced  by  the  intervention  of  the  warp  and  weft  threads  in 
the  front  of  the  reed,  passes  over  the  breast  beam  E,  to  the  cloth 
roller  F,  and  is  wound  upon  a  loose  roller  G,  by  the  friction  of  their 
surfaces. 

The  crank  or  driving  shaft  H,  by  which  the  working  parts  of  the 
loom  are  driven,  is  connected  by  the  crank  rods  1 1,  to  the  back 
part  of  the  lay  ;  and  hence,  as  the  crank  shaft  rotates,  the  latter  is 
made  to  vibrate  in  the  usual  way  ;  and  by  the  ordinary  connexion 
of  toothed  wheels,  the  tappet  shaft  K,  is  also  driven,  which  works 
the  headles  C  C,  that  open  the  sheds  of  the  warp,  and  also  the 
picker  staves  L  L,  that  drive  the  shuttle  to  and  fro. 

Fiff.  16G. 


b;  ;  ) 


A*.   -..J...' 


:       !    V 


358 


THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 


In  the  representation  of  the  back  of  the  lay  at  Fig.  167,  it  will 
be  perceived  that  the  reed  D,  is  fixed  in  a  frame  M  M ;  which 
frame  is  mounted  in  the  lay,  and  held  by  pivots  on  studs  N  N, 
bolted  to  the  upper  parts  of  the  swords  of  the  lay.  Upon  these 
studs  or  pivots  N.  the  reed,  with  its  frame,  is  enabled  to  swing  back- 
ward, but  it  is  confined  in  its  situation  by  powerful  springs  O  O, 
secured  to  the  back  of  the  lay,  the  ends  of  these  springs  pressing 
against  the  lower  rail  of  the  reed  frame.  The  tension  of  these 
springs  may  be  tempered  by  the  adjustable  staples  and  screws  P  P. 

These  parts  of  the  loom  are  described  for  the  purpose  of  leading 
to,  and  more  readily  illustrating  the  design  and  operation  of  the  pre- 
sent improvement. 

A  perpendicular  lever  Q,  is  attached  to  the  side  of  one  of  the 
swords  of  the  lay  by  means  of  a  fulcrum  stud  R,  projecting  from  a 
bracket  bolted  to  the  sword.  The  upper  end  of  this  lever  bears 
against  the  bottom  rail  of  the  back  of  the  reed  frame  M,  and  is 
held  there  by  a  shght  spring  (see  Fig.  167.)  The  lower  part  of  this 
frame  is  attached  by  an  axle  joint  to  a  horizontal  rod  S.  That  end 
of  the  rod  S,  to  which  the  lever  Q,,  is  connected,  is  bent  downward, 
as  shown  in  Fig.  166,  for  the  purpose  of  enabling  the  rod  to  pass  over 
the  rocker  at  bottom  of  the  sword,  which  the  lay  vibrates  upon. 
The  joint  connecting  the  end  of  the  lever  Q,  and  rod  S,  must  be 
brought  as  nearly  in  coincidence  with  the  axle  of  the  lay  as  may 
be  found  practicable. 


Fig.  167. 


Xo.  30. 


PLAIN   WEAVING. 


359 


At  the  back  part  of  the  loom  there  is  a  perpendicular  shaft  T, 
supported  in  brackets  bolted  to  the  side  frame  or  standard.  Upon 
the  upper  part  of  this  shaft  is  fixed  an  endless  screw  or  worm  taking 
into  the  teeth  of  a  wheel  on  the  yarn  beam  ;  by  the  rotation  of 
which  worm  the  beam  is  turned,  and  made  to  deliver  the  warp.  A 
ratchet  wheel  U,  is  made  fast  by  a  bolt  to  the  perpendicular  shaft 
T,  near  its  lower  end ;  and  below  this  a  cylindrical  piece  or  collar 
y,  is  loosely  fitted  upon  the  shaft,  and  held  up  by  a  pin. 

Fiff.  163. 


From  this  side  of  the  collar  V,  a  small  arm  extends,  carrying  an 
upright  stud,  which  passes  through  an  eye  at  the  back  end  of  the 
horizontal  rod  S,  for  the  purpose  of  forming  a  jointed  support  to  that 
end  of  the  rod.  At  a  short  distance  from  this  joint,  a  standard  W, 
is  fixed  into  the  horizontal  rod,  carrying  a  click  or  tooth,  the  point 
of  which  drops  into  the  teeth  of  the  ratchet  wheel.  This  tooth  is  the 
driver  that  gives  rotary  movement  to  the  ratchet  wheel  U,  and 
shaft  T. 

A  bent  arm  X,  is  aflfixed  by  bolts  to  the  horizontal  rod  S,  the  ele- 
vated end  of  which  arm  being  struck  by  the  sword  when  the  lay 
falls  back,  gives  a  sliding  movement  to  tlie  rod  S,  and  thereby 
causes  the  click  W,  to  drive  the  ratchet  wheel  U. 

Below  the  endless  screw  on  the  perpendicular  shaft  T,  another 
ratchet  wheel  Y,  is  fixed,  corresponding  in  the  number  of  its 
teeth  with  the  ratchet  wheel  U.  This  ratchet  wheel  acts  upon 
a  tooth  at  the  end  of  the  shorter  arm  of  a  bent  lever  Z,  Z,  suspend- 
ed on  a  pivot  or  stud  in  a  bracket  attached  to  the  side  frame.     At 


360  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

the  reverse  end,  that  is,  near  the  extremity  of  the  longer  arm  of  this 
bent  lever  Z,  a  tappet  pin  is  fixed,  for  the  purpose  of  raising  the 
arm  of  the  ordinary  taking  up  lever,  which  works  the  click  or  dri- 
ver of  the  ratchet  connected  with  the  ordinary  train  of  toothed  gear, 
for  taking  up  or  winding  the  cloth  upon  the  beam  in  front,  as  usual. 

After  every  flight  of  the  shuttle  through  the  open  shed  or  warp, 
the  lay  advances  for  the  purpose  of  causing  the  reed  to  beat  up  the 
weft  thread  ;  but  as  it  is  mounted  in  a  vibrating  frame  M,  the  force 
with  which  it  strikes  against  the  cloth  causes  the  lower  rail  of  the 
reed  frame  to  recede  or  swing  back  from  the  lay  a  short  distance,  as 
shown  in  the  section  Fig.  166. 

As  the  upper  end  of  the  perpendicular  lever  Q,  bears  against  the 
lower  rail  of  the  reed  frame  whenever  the  reed  frame  recedes,  as 
above  described,  that  end  of  the  lever  is  necessarily  forced  back,  and 
the  under  end  consequently  moved  forward,  bringing  with  it  the 
horizontal  rod  S.  This  movement  of  the  rod  S,  causes  the  end  of 
the  bent  arm  X,  to  be  brought  close  against  the  vibrating  sword  of 
the  lay,  and  also  draws  back  the  click  W,  over  one  tooth  in  the 
ratchet  wheel  U.  On  the  return  of  the  lay  into  the  inclined  posi- 
tion,  as  shown  by  dots  in  Fig.  166,  the  sword  will  strike  against  the 
end  of  the  bent  arm  X,  and  slide  the  horizontal  rod  S,  back  again, 
which  will  cause  the  click  W,  to  drive  the  ratchet  wheel  U,  one 
tooth,  and  thereby  turn  the  shaft  T,  and  its  endless  screw,  by  means 
of  which  the  yarn  beam  is  drawn  round,  and  the  warp  given  out. 

But  in  the  event  of  the  weft  thread  having  broken,  there  will  be 
no  delivery  from  the  shuttle,  and  consequently  a  want  of  filling  to 
the  cloth  ;  the  reed,  therefore,  in  beating  up,  will  not  meet  with  that 
resistance  which  it  did  when  the  filling  of  the  weft  thread  was  per- 
fect. In  the  beating  up  of  the  lay,  therefore,  the  reed  frame  will 
not  now  be  driven  back  as  before,  nor  the  lever  Q,  be  sufficiently 
acted  upon  to  cause  it  to  slide  the  horizontal  rod  S,  through  the 
same  distance  :  consequently,  the  click  W,  will  not  be  drawn  over 
another  tooth  of  the  ratchet  wheel  U  ,  and  the  shaft  T,  being  thus 
allowed  to  remain  in  a  quiescent  state,  the  warp  will  no  longer  be 
given  out  from  the  yarn  beam. 

The  rotary  movement  given  to  the  shaft  T,  in  the  way  described, 
carries  round  the  ratchet  wheel  Y  ;  and  the  teeth  of  this  ratchet 
wheel  acting  upon  the  tooth  at  the  end  of  the  shorter  arm  of  the 
bent  lever  Z,  causes  that  end  of  the  bent  lever  to  be  depressed  every 
time  that  a  tooth  of  the  wheel  Y,  passes  over  the  tooth  of  the  lever, 
as  shown  by  dots  in  Fig.  166. 

By  these  means,  the  reverse  end  or  longer  arm  of  the  lever  is 


PLAIN    WEAVING.  361 

raised,  which  causes  the  tappet  pin  fixed  near  its  extremity  to  Uft 
the  take-up  lever,  which  operates  upon  the  ordinary  gearing  for 
winding  up  the  cloth  on  the  roller  as  usual.  But  when  the  rotary 
movement  of  the  perpendicular  shaft  T,  is  suspended,  owing  to  the 
breaking  of  the  weft  thread,  as  before  stated,  then  the  taking  up  of 
the  cloth  ceases,  as  well  as  the  delivery  of  the  warp,  although  the 
loom  continue  in  action. 

To  a  superficial  observer,  this  contrivance  of  Mr.  Stone's  might 
appear  to  be  the  very  acme  of  perfection  ;  yet,  it  possesses  many  de- 
fects, in  a  practical  point  of  view.  In  the  first  place,  it  is  of  too 
complex  a  character :  indeed,  all  that  it  accomplishes,  can  be  effect- 
ed with  one-fifth  of  the  machinery  which  it  contains.  Mr.  S's.  loom 
is  not  capable  of  producing  thin  goods  with  any  degree  of  regu- 
larity ;  and  this  will  be  evident  when  it  is  remembered,  that  it  is  by 
the  accumulating  pressure  of  the  cloth  against  the  reed  that  motion 
is  communicated  to  the  yarn  beam.  It  is  clear,  therefore,  that  for 
light  muslins,  or  delicate  silk  textures,  where  only  from  10  to  25 
threads  of  weft  per  inch  are  required,  this  contrivance  would  not 
answer  at  all ;  unless  Mr.  S.  hung  his  reed  upon  a  wisp,  and  em- 
ployed, in  conjunction,  a  native  of  the  Emerald  Isle,  to  assist,  by 
coaxing  the  warp  from  off"  the  yarn  beam  as  fast  as  required.  The 
cloth,  instead  of  being  taken  up  regularly  as  the  loeaving  proceeds, 
is  wound  up  by  fits  and  starts  ;  for  it  is  not  until  a  number  of 
threads  of  weft  have  been  added  to  the  face  of  the  cloth,  equal  to 
the  length  of  one  of  the  teeth  in  the  ratchet  wheel  U,  on  the  end 
of  the  perpendicular  shaft  T,  that  the  click  or  driver  W,  is  allowed 
to  fall  into  a  new  tooth  ;  and  after  this  has  taken  place,  it  will  keep 
jiggling  or  dancing  there,  until  another  ridge  of  cloth  is  piled  up 
against  the  reed,  when  the  point  of  the  click  W,  will  again  hop 
over  a  tooth,  as  before. 

In  order  to  make  this  loom  weave  thin  goods  perfectly  regular,  it 
would  be  absolutely  necessary  to  have  the  teeth  of  the  ratchet  wheel 
U,  as  fine  as  the  diameter  of  the  weft  thread  to  be  used  ;  but  we 
question  whether  teeth  of  this  fineness  would  not  be  more  than  a 
match  for  the  eye-sight  of  any  manufacturer  in  the  United  States. 
For  textures  having  from  35  to  80  threads  of  weft  per  inch,  how- 
ever, Mr.  Stone's  loom  will  be  found  an  acquisition. 

Fig.  169,  represents  part  of  the  frame  of  a  loom,  with  the  com- 
mon ratchet  take-up  motion  attached  thereto,  as  well  as  an  improved 
method  of  governing  it,  receiving  motion  from  a  vibrating  reed, 
which  is  arranged  in  a  frame,  precisely  the  same  as  that  shown  in 
Figs.  165,  166,  167  and  168.     The  improvement  now  to  be  de- 

46 


362 


THE    ART    OP    WEAVING. 


scribed,  although  exceedingly  simple,  is  capable  of  effecting  all  that 
Mr.  Stone's  apparatus  can  accomplish.* 


Fig.  169. 


A  B  B  C,  is  the  frame  of  the  loom  ;  w,  w,  the  lay ;  P,  the  reed  ; 
g,g,  two  springs,  for  the  purpose  of  keeping  the  under  part  of  the 
reed  frame  K,  pressed  up.  The  springs  g,  g,  are  screwed  by  two 
screws  at  each  end,  as  will  be  perceived  by  the  black  dots  at  the 
points  w,  w,  and  are  governed,  in  regard  to  their  pressure  against 
the  rail  K,  by  means  of  two  clasp  bolts  passing  through  the  lay ; 
which  clasp  bolts  may  be  seen  close  to  the  letters  g,  g  ;  these  bolts 
have  regulating  nuts,  one  at  the  back  and  the  other  at  the  front  of 
the  lay,  for  the  purpose  of  setting  the  bolts  to  any  required  position, 
according  to  the  degree  of  pressure  intended  to  be  communicated 
from  the  springs  g,  g,  to  the  rail  K,  of  the  reed  frame.  In  the 
operation  of  the  loom,  the  rail  K,  is  pressed  back  by  the  reed  P,  at 
each  vibration  of  the  lay,  a  distance  equal  to  the  diameter  of  the 
weft  thread,  n,  n,  is  a  lever  having  its  fulcrum  at  o,  the  upper  end 
of  which  lever  is  kept  pressed  against  the  rail  K,  at  the  point  X,  by 
means  of  the  spring  v  ;  and  this  spring  is  made  fast  to  the  rail  K, 


*  The  connexion  between  the  reed  and  the  yarn  beam  is  not  absolutely  ne- 
cessary ;  because,  a  uniformity  of  tension  may  be  communicated  to  the  warp 
from  the  cloth  roller. 


PLAIN    WEAVING.  363 

by  two  screws,  as  indicated  by  the  black  dots.*  At  the  lower  end  of 
the  lever  7i,  w,  is  a  turned-up  part  z^  which  touches  the  inclined 
part  of  the  arm  o,  a,  a :  this  arm  has  its  axis  at  V,  and  carries  at 
its  end  a  click  or  driver  c,  for  giving  motion  to  the  ratchet  wheel  c, 
which  wheel  has  a  pinion  made  fast  to  it,  and  taking  into  the  spur 
wheel  on  the  end  of  the  cloth  roller  d :  the  ratchet  wheel  c,  is  pre- 
vented from  recoiling  by  a  suitable  catch  fixed  inside  the  frame,  its 
point  working  into  the  teeth  of  the  ratchet  a  little  to  the  right  of 
the  letter  c. 

The  vibrating  motion  of  the  lay  is  effected  through  the  agency  of 
a  stud-pin  carrying  a  small  roller  which  works  in  the  sweep  i :  this 
stud-pin  is  connected  to  an  arm  on  the  end  of  the  driving  shaft  m.t 
When  the  loom  is  put  in  operation,  the  reed  P,  is  forced  back  by  the 
weft  in  the  act  of  beating  up  ;  and  as  the  weft  acts  on  the  lever  n,  n, 
and  makes  its  lower  end  to  strike  against  the  arm  a,  a,  a,  so  as  to 
put  the  cloth  roller  d,  in  motion,  it  thus  winds  on  the  texture  as  it 
is  woven ;  but  if  the  reed  beats  up  without  the  weft,  it  will  not  in 
that  case  be  forced  back,  as  there  would  not  be  any  addition  to  the 
cloth,  by  the  crossing  of  the  weft,  to  that  which  had  been  previously 
beaten  up  ;  the  reed,  therefore,  would  not  be  forced  back  by  the 
subsequent  motion  of  the  loom,  and  consequently  the  lever  7?,  n, 
would  not  strike  against  the  inclined  face  of  the  arm  a,  a,  a,  and, 
of  course,  the  taking-up  apparatus  would  not  be  set  in  motion. 

The  inclined  arm  a,  or,  a,  has  a  small  governing  weight  10,  at  its 
end,  which  serves  to  balance  it  and  keep  the  click  or  driver  e,  against 
the  tooth  in  the  ratchet  wheel  c  .•  but  this  weight  10,  is  not  suffi- 
ciently heavy  to  cause  the  ratchet  wheel  c,  to  revolve.  The  sword 
of  the  lay  carries  a  small  roller  or  pulley  fixed  on  a  stud-pin,  as 
shown  a  little  above  the  letter  y  ;  this  roller  serves  to  elevate  the  in- 
clined arm  a,  a,  a,  after  it  has  been  depressed  by  the  action  of  the 
turned-up  end  of  the  lever  w,  w,  upon  it,  in  the  manner  already  ex- 
plained ;  so  that  in  the  backward  motion  of  the  lay,  the  roller  will 
raise  the  arm  a,  a,  a,  and  will  thereby  cause  the  click  e,  to  fall  back 
into  a  new  tooth  in  the  ratchet  wheel  c  ;  in  which  tooth  it  will  re- 
main, until  the  lever  7i,  7i,  has  received  sufficient  motion  from  the 
point  X,  to  cause  the  other  extremity  to  depress  the  arm  a,  a,  a,  and 

*  A  patent  for  this  inveniion  (Fig.  169)  was  granted  to  Oliver  C.  Burr,  an 
ingenious  mechanic,  of  Milbury,  Mass.,  bearing  date  July  17,  1835. 

t  The  figure  being  drawn  in  perspective,  only  one  of  the  swords  of  the  lay, 
with  its  sweep  z",  can  be  seen  ;  but  the  opposite  side  of  the  lay,  of  course,  has 
a  similar  sword  with  a  sweep  i :  no  difficulty  can  be  experienced  on  this 
head. 


364  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

force  the  ratchet  c.  fonvard  a  distance  equal  to  tliat  which  the  catch 
e,  had  fallen  back  in  the  previous  working  of  the  loom. 

Before  commencing  the  operation  of  weaving,  the  lever  n,  7i,  must 
be  so  set  in  relation  to  the  inclined  arm  a.  a,  a,  that  when  the  reed 
is  brought  full  up  to  the  face  of  the  cloth,  the  turned-up  end  of  the 
lever  /?.  ??;  will  nearly  touch  the  inchned  face  of  the  arm  a,a,a; 
and  when  the  lay  is  thrown  full  back,  the  roller  will  not  touch  the 
under  side  of  the  arm,  because  the  arm  had  not  been  previously  de- 
pressed by  the  lever  n.  n.  In  this  position,  therefore,  the  loom  may 
continue  to  operate  for  ever  without  any  motion  being  communica- 
ted to  the  ratchet  wheel  c.  unless  weft  be  added  to  the  face  of  the 
cloth.  It  will  be  perceived,  that  a  very  shght  addition  of  weft  to 
the  cloth  (say  two  or  three  threads)  will  communicate  extensive  mo- 
tion to  the  arm  a.  a.  a  :  and  this  is  caused  by  the  greater  leverage 
of  the  lower  end  of  the  lever  n.  n.  For  looms  of  the  working  size, 
the  length  of  the  lever  n.n.  from  the  axis  o.  to  the  rail  K,  is  5 
inches,  and  from  the  axis  o.  to  the  other  extremity,  or  turned-up 
end.  17  inches  ;  but  these  relative  lengths  may  be  varied  to  suit  the 
different  heights  of  looms.  It  is  very  evident,  therefore,  that  this 
u-nprovement  or  contrivance,  is  not  only  simpler,  but  superior  to 
Stone's  motion,  and  possesses  the  advantage  over  it.  of  taking  up 
the  cloth  with  greater  regularity  ;  because,  the  action  of  the  lever 
w,  n,  is  direct  on  the  arm  a,  a.  a.  at  each  pick  of  weft :  three  threads 
of  weft  at  most  being  sufficient  to  comynunicate  action  to  the 
arm  a,  a.  a  ;  it  is.  however,  not  perfect,  on  this  very  account,  being 
liable,  to  a  certain  extent,  to  the  same  defect  experienced  in  Stone's 
mechanism,  namely,  the  pihng  of  the  cloth  against  the  reed  before 
any  motion  at  all  can  be  communicated.  For  shirtings  and  cali- 
coes, of  from  30  to  SO  or  90  threads  of  weft  per  inch,  this  motion  is, 
perhaps,  the  best  in  existence  at  the  present  day ;  and  the  expense 
of  fitting  it  to  a  loom  is  only  a  few  shillings. 

"  The  invention  is  mine,"  said  a  would-be  inventor  ; 
«  You  lie,"  said  a  second,  "  I  own  't,  and  no  other ;" 
A  third  cried,  "  'tis  mine  !"  with  a  voice  loud  as  Stentor ; 
And  a  fourth  sxcore  'twas  his  ;  while  a  fifth  was  its  father. 

Figs.  170  and  171,  exhibit  another  method  of  regulating  the 
movement  of  the  yarn  beam,  and  of  taking  up  the  cloth,  so  as  to 
produce  textures  of  uniform  thickness  throughout:  but  this  contri- 
vance contains  the  same  defects  as  those  pointed  out  in  Mr.  Stone's 


PLAIN    WEAVING. 


365 


loom  ;  upon  which  loom  it  is,  indeed,  a  direct  infringement,  although 
it  possesses  the  merit  of  being  somewhat  simpler.* 

A,  is  the  lay ;  B,  the  spring  reed ;  C,  a  lever,  extending  down 
nearly  as  low  as  the  bottom  of  the  lay  sword ;  D,  the  part  of  the 
lay  in  which  the  bar  F,  slides ;  F,  a  perpendicular  shaft,  having  a 
ratchet  wheel  G,  at  its  lower  end,  and  an  endless  screw  or  worm  H, 
on  its  upper  end  which  operates,  by  gearing,  to  give  the  requisite 
motion  to  the  yarn  beam  as  in  Stone's  loom  ;  1 1,  steps  of  the  per- 
pendicular shaft ;  and  J,  a  guide  piece,  having  a  notch  or  mortise 
in  it  to  receive  and  guide  the  bar  E,  which  acts  upon  the  ratchet 
wheel  G. 

Fig,  170. 


The  following  is  the  manner  in  which  the  bar  E,  receives  its  mo- 
tion from  the  spring  reed  B  : — 

When  the  lay  advances  and  brings  the  reed  into  contact  with  the 


*  This  alteration  of  Stone's  loom,  notwithstanding  its  similarity  to  the  ori- 
ginal, was  made  the  subject  of  a  patent  by  one  Welcome  A.  Potter,  of  Crans- 
ton, Rhode  Island,  Nov.  23,  1837 ;  which  circumstance  goes  far  to  prove 
what  we  have  time  after  time  stated,  that  there  is  in  reality  no  more  protec- 
tion for  the  ingenious  man  in  the  United  States  of  America  than  in  Great 
Britain. 


366  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

cloth,  the  springing  of  the  reed  throws  the  top  of  the  lever  C,  back, 
being  actuated  by  the  resistance  of  the  face  of  the  cloth  against  the 
reed,  and  as  this  lever  works  upon  a  fulcrum  K,  in  the  lay,  and  its 
lower  end  passes  into  a  mortise  or  slot  at  L,  in  the  bar  E,  and  bear- 
ing against  the  fore  end  of  this  slot,  draws  the  rod  forward  by  the 
back  motion  of  its  upper  end,  and  the  back  end  of  the  bar  E,  then 
catches  upon  a  tooth  of  the  ratchet  wheel  G,  to  which  wheel  it  will 
give  motion  when  the  lay  is  thrown  back  :  this  force  is  effected  by 
the  sword  of  the  lay  coming  into  contact  with  a  shoulder  at  M,  thus 
forcing  the  bar  E,  back  and  turning  the  ratchet  wheel  G,  the  shaft 
F,  then  moving  the  yarn  beam  by  means  of  the  worm  or  screw  H. 

The  foregoing  description  represents  the  bar  E,  as  receiving  its 
motion  through  the  agency  of  the  spring  reed :  but  Mr.  Potter  says 
that  he  sometimes  communicates  it  through  that  of  the  spring  whip 
roll,  as  shown  in  Fig.  171. 

The  whip  roll  N,  is  supported  by  a  bent  arm  O,  there  being 
a  smiilar  one  at  its  other  end ;  the  bent  arm  O,  works  on  a  ful- 
crum P,  made  fast  to  the  frame  of  the  loom,  said  bent  arjn  ex- 
tending to  about  an  equal  distance  from  the  fulcrum  at  each  end. 
A  spring  Q,,  acts  upon  the  lower  end  of  the  bent  arm,  for  the 
purpose  of  holding  it  in  its  proper  position  when  not  acted  upon  by 
any  other  force. 

When  the  lay  moves  forward,  and  the  reed  presses  forcibly  on 
the  cloth,  this  has  the  effect  of  drawing  tlie  whip  roll  N,  forward, 
and  causing  the  lower  end  of  the  bent  arm  O,  to  recede :  from 
this  lower  end,  a  rod  or  wire  R,  extends  to  a  lever  S,  working  on  a 
fulcrum  T,  on  the  frame  of  the  loom,  its  lower  end  passing  into  a 
mortise  or  slot  in  the  bar  E ;  and  this  lever  is  operated  upon  in  a 
manner  similar  to  tliat  of  the  lever  C,  already  described  :  in  both 
Figs,  the  mortise  L,  must  be  long  enough  to  give  play  to  the 
lever  E,  without  moving  the  lever  C,  (Fig.  170)  or  the  lever  S, 
(Fig.  171.)* 

On  referring  to  Mr.  Stone's  machine,  Figs.  165,  166,  167  and 
168,  and  comparing  it  with  Mr.  Potter's  modification,  shown  in 
Figs.  170  and  171,  the  real  character  of  the  infringement  wiU  be 
manifest.     In  the  first  place,  Mr.  Stone's  invention  consists,  in  the 


*  Tlie  wfiip  roll  N,  in  connexion  with  the  lever  O,  for  the  purpose  lierein 
explained,  is  not  the  invention  of  Mr.  Potter,  Mr.  Louis  Schwabe  and  other 
manufacturers,  of  Manchester,  having  used  it  several  years  before  the  date 
of  his  patent ;  and  tliese  gentlemen,  no  doubt,  can  tell  Mr.  Potter  to  whom 
the  invention  truly  belongs  ! 


PLAIN    WEAVING. 
Fig.  171. 


367 


application  of  the  lever  Q,  in  connexion  with  the  rod  S,  having  the 
bent  arm  X  made  fast  to  it,  the  click  W,  ratchet  wheels  U,  and  Y, 
vertical  shaft  T,  and  the  worm  working  into  the  spur  wheel  A  A, 
on  the  end  of  the  yarn  beam  (see  Figs.  165  and  166  ;)  and  these 
parts,  receiving  motion  from  the  vibrating  reed  D,  govern  the  giving 
out  of  the  warp,  as  well  as  the  taking-up  of  the  cloth,  the  one  de- 
pending upon  the  other.  This  feature  forms  the  subject  of  Mr. 
Stone's  patent ;  and,  we  think,  with  justice  too ;  for  the  contrivance 
is  really  very  ingenious,  and  does  its  inventor  credit,  notwithstand- 
ing its  inapplicability  to  some  kinds  of  textures,  as  has  been  aheady 
stated. 

Now,  on  referring  to  the  subject  of  Mr.  Potter's  patent,  as  shown 
at  Figs.  170  and  171,  it  will  be  seen  that  he  has  adapted  the  let-off 
and  take-up  motions  claimed  by  Mr.  Stone ;  for  his  worm  H,  shaft 
F,  ratchet  wheel  G,  bar  E,  lever  C,  and  so  forth,  are  precisely  the 
same ;  but  he  evades  Mr.  Stone's  patent  by  substituting  a  mortise 
or  slot  L  (see  Fig.  170)  in  the  rod  or  bar  E,  instead  of  the  bent  arm 
X,  bolted  to  the  rod  or  bar  S,  of  Stone's  loom  (see  Figs.  166.)  Into 
the  slot  L,  made  in  the  bar  E,  Mr.  P.  inserts  the  end  of  the  lever 


368  THE    ART    OF    VEAVING. 

C,  instead  of  connecting  it  by  a  pin  to  the  end  of  the  rod  or  bar  S, 
as  in  Figs.  165  and  166;  and  it  is  the  playing  of  the  lever  C^ 
against  the  ends  of  the  slot  L,  (receiving  motion  from  the  vibratory- 
reed)  that  rotates  the  ratchet  G,  on  the  end  of  the  shaft  F  (Fig.  170,) 
instead  of  the  piece  X,  and  so  forth,  in  Stone's  loom.  Mr.  P.  makes 
a  catch  of  the  rod  or  bar  E,  for  turning  the  ratchet  G,  instead  of 
inserting  a  stud-pin  into  the  rod,  and  putting  the  chck  W,  on  it,  as 
in  Fig.  1 66  :  but  this  alteration,  of  course,  amounts  to  nothing.  The 
jogged  end  M.  of  the  bar  E,  in  Figs.  170  and  171,  answers  tbe 
same  purpose  as  that  shown  in  Figs.  165  and  166,  but  is  no  im- 
provement thereon.  The  spiral  spring  12.  in  Figs.  170  and  1~1,  is 
attached  to  the  bar  E,  and  stationary  guide  J,  for  the  purpose  of 
keeping  the  bar  E,  against  the  teeth  of  the  ratchet  G,  until  suffi- 
cient cloth  has  been  woven  to  cause  the  under  extremity  of  the 
lever  C  (Fig.  170)  to  draw  back,  towards  the  cloth,  the  bar  E,  so  as 
to  allow  its  point  to  drop  into  a  new  tooth  in  the  ratchet  G :  all  this 
justly  belongs  to  3Ir.  Stone,  as  any  man  who  is  not  a  downright 
ignoramus  may  at  once  perceive.  The  modification  of  Fig.  170, 
shown  in  Fig.  171,  does  not  possess  any  merit,  and  is  only  another 
method  of  beating  about  the  bush,  for  the  purpose  of  evading  Stone's 
patent.  How  in  the  world  Mr.  Potter  obtained  a  patent  for  Mr. 
Stone's  invention,  is  to  us  a  myster)- :  surely  somebody  about  the 
Patent  Office  must  have  been  magnetized  when  this  transaction 
took  place. 

Fig.  172,  represents  a  side  view,  in  elevation,  of  a  common  power 
loom,  with  another  modification  of  the  same  apparatus  for  regula- 
ting the  takiug-up  of  the  cloth  :  and  for  which  contrivance,  a  patent 
was  granted  to  Horace  Hendrick.  of  Killing!}';  Conn.,  bearing  date 
22d  Sept.  1S36  ;  but  it  is  not  worth  a  81,000;  and  our  only  object 
in  having  gone  to  the  expense  of  drawing,  engraving.  &c.,  and 
givmg  it  insertion  in  this  work,  is,  to  expose  that  system  which  is 
so  extensively  carried  on  by  men  who  have  no  real  talent  of  their 
own  and  are  too  lazy  to  get  their  living  by  honest  means.  Mr.  H. 
denominates  his  appendage,  '•'  the  rod  and  sickle  ;"  but  we  think 
the  term  pruning  hook  would  be  quite  cis  applicable. 

F  F  F  F,  is  the  frame  of  the  loom  ;  H  H.  the  sword  of  the 
lay  ;  R  R,  the  lever  which  receives  motion  from  the  vibrating  reed, 
and  is  the  same  as  that  marked  Q,,  in  Figs.  165, 166, 167  and  168, 
71.  n.  in  Fig.  169.  and  C.  in  Figs.  170  and  171.  The  lever  RR,  in 
this  loom  is  made  to  beat  up  against  the  inchned  rod  X,  at  its  lower 
extremity,  near  its  fulcrum,  this  rod  X,  being  connected  to  the  arm 
of  the  common  take-up  lever  (which  is  in   all  respects  like  that 


PLAIN   WEAVING. 
Fiii.  172. 


369 


shown  at  Fig.  169.)  L,  is  the  lay ;  B,  a  small  friction  roller  or 
stud-pin  fixed  on  the  side  of  the  lay,  like  that  above  the  letter  y,  in 
in  Fig.  169;  except  that  in  this  case  it  is  turned  upside  down,  for 
some  purpose  best  known  to  Mr.  H.  himself  The  arm  C,  being 
acted  upon  by  the  roller  B,  will,  of  course,  cause  the  clicks  or  dri- 
vers K,  to  turn  the  cloth  roller  P.  S,  is  a  spring  (one  at  each  side 
of  the  lay)  bolted  to  the  sword  of  the  lay  at  T,  for  the  purpose  of 
keeping  the  reed  frame  in  its  place,  as  in  Stone's  loom,  and  in  the 
others  also,  but  here  it  is  turned  topsy-turvy. 

Wherein  does  the  reader  suppose  the  subject  of  this  patent  con- 
sists ?  Is  it  in  the  lever  R  R  ?  Is  it  in  the  springs  S  ?  Or,  is  it  in 
the  clicks  K  ?  The  only  feature  of  novelty  that  we  can  perceive, 
is  in  the  beating  of  the  nib  or  under  extremity  of  the  lever  RR, 
against  the  lower  part  of  the  connecting  rod  X,  and  tliat  too  so 
near  its  fulcrum  that  something  in  the  neighbourhood  of  a  horse 
power,  at  least,  must  be  required  to  enable  ii  to  actuate  the  taking- 
up  of  the  cloth  ;  and  this,  in  our  opinion,  is  improving  backward. 

The  rod  X,  (Fig.  172)  being  connected  by  a  stud-pin  to  the  lay 

47 


370  THE    ART    OF    WEAVIXG. 

sword  at  bottom  and  to  the  ami  C.  at  top,  constitutes  a  positive  take- 
up  motion  ;  and  consequently  the  lever  R  R,  which  is  actuated  by 
the  reed,  is  useless.  ?seither  do  we  see  the  utility  of  the  stud-pin 
or  roller  B ;  because,  the  rod  X,  will  raise  and  depress  the  arm  C, 
which  carries  the  clicks  or  drivers  K,  independently  of  it.  The  pa- 
tentee does  not  tell  us  how  the  lever  R  R,  actuates  the  arm  C, 
through  the  agency  of  the  rod  X,  but  simply  remarks  that  "  the 
lever  RR.  communicates  motion  to  the  cloth  roller  by  means  of  the 
rod  X,  connected  to  the  sickle  C'  He  also  says  that  '•  the  roller 
or  stud-pin  B,  may  be  inserted  in  the  lever  R  R,  instead  of  in  the 
sword  H  H  ;•'  but,  we  confess  our  inability  to  see  the  utility  of  so 
doing,  unless  the  under  extremity  of  the  lever  R  R,  were  cut  away 
altogether  :  after  which,  the  motion  would  be  in  all  respects  hke 
that  shown  at  Fig.  169 ;  for  if  the  stud-pin  B,  were  made  fast  to 
the  lever  R  R,  underneath  the  arm  C,  and  the  roller  or  stud-pin  B, 
on  the  lay  sword  above  it,  it  would  answer  the  same  purpose  as  the 
turned-up  end  of  the  lever  n,  v,  shown  in  Fig.  169,  with  the  roller 
fixed  on  the  sword  of  the  la)'  below  it.  But,  in  this  case,  it  would 
be  necessary  to  shorten  the  distance  between  the  reed  and  the  ful- 
crum of  the  lever  R  R,  so  as  to  bring  the  fulcrum  nearer  to  the  reed, 
as  in  Fig.  169.  in  order  to  give  the  other  extremity  greater  scope  for 
acting  on  the  arm  C.  Instead  of  this,  however.  ?.Ir.  H.  informs  us, 
that  the  fulcrum  of  the  lever  R  R,  is  midway  between  the  reed  and 
its  lower  extremity. 

As  this  contrivance  is  represented,  it  will  only  operate  as  a  posi- 
tive take-up  motion,  as  before  stated  :  and  in  order  to  make  it  actu- 
ate the  arm  C.  tlirough  the  agency  of  the  vibrating  reed,  the  rod  X, 
must  be  disconnected  from  the  pin  w.  and  a  long  slot  made  in  the 
end  of  the  rod  X.  into  which  slot  the  pin  ic.  may  work :  this  pin  w, 
having  a  suitable  head  made  upon  it.  to  prevent  the  rod  X,  from 
dropping  off.  This  done,  if  the  arm  C,  is  counterbalanced  with  a 
weight,  similar  to  that  marked  10,  in  Fig.  169,  the  roller  or  stud- 
pin  B,  will  depress  it. 

In  this  position,  the  lower  nib  or  point  may  possibly  actuate  the 
the  rod  X,  in  forcins-  up  the  arm  C,  when  a  sufficient  quantity  of 
cloth  is  piled  up  against  the  reed  :  but  even  then  we  think  the  odds 
against  the  lever  R  R.  will  be  tremendous,  from  the  relative  positions 
in  which  these  parts  are  represented  by  the  patentee. 

■'•Emulation."  says  Mason,  "like  the  other  passions  of  the  human 
mind,  shows  itself  much  more  plainly,  and  works  much  more 
strongly  in  some  than  it  does  in  others.  It  is  in  itself  innocent ; 
and  was  planted  m  our  natures  for  very  wise  ends,  and,  if  kept  un- 


PLAIN    WEAVING.  371 

der  proper  regulations,  is  capable  of  serving  very  excellent  pur- 
poses, otherwise  it  degenerates  into  a  'mean  and  criminal  ambi- 
tion. 

"When  a  man  finds  something  within  him  that  pushes  him  on 
to  excel  in  worthy  deeds,  or  in  actions  truly  good  and  virtuous, 
and  pursues  that  design  with  a  steady  unaffected  ardour,  without 
reserve  or  falsehood,  it  is  a  true  sign  of  a  noble  spirit :  for  that  love 
of  praise  can  never  be  criminal,  that  excites  and  enables  a  man  to 
do  a  great  deal  more  good  than  he  could  do  without  it.  And,  per- 
haps, there  never  was  a  fine  genius,  or  a  noble  spirit,  that  rose  above 
the  common  level,  and  distinguished  itself  by  high  attainments  in 
what  is  truly  excellent,  but  was  secretly,  and  perhaps  insensibly 
prompted  by  the  impulse  of  this  passion. 

"But,  on  the  contrary,  if  a  man's  views  centre  only  in  the  ap- 
plause of  others,  -whether  it  he  deserved  or  not ;  if  Ice  pants  after 
jjnpidirity  and  fame,  not  regarding  hov)  he  comes  by  it ;  if  his 
passion  for  praise  urge  him  to  stretch  himself  beyond  the  line  of  his 
capacity,  and  to  attempt  things  to  which  he  is  unequal ;  to  conde- 
scend, to  mean  arts  and  low  dissimidation  for  the  sake  of  a 
name  :  and  in  a  sinister,  indirect  way,  sue  hard  for  a  little  in- 
cense, not  caring  from  wht.m  he  receives  it ;  his  ambition  then 
becomes  vanity.  And  if  it  excite  a  man  to  wicked  attempts,  make 
him  willing  to  sacrifice  the  esteem  of  all  wise  and  good  men  to  the 
acclamations  of  a  mob ;  to  overleap  the  bounds  of  decency  and 
truth,  and  break  through  the  obligations  of  honour  and  virtue,  it  is 
then  not  only  vanity,  but  vice. 

'•  To  correct  the  irregularity  and  extravagance  of  this  passion, 
let  us  but  reflect  how  airy  and  unsubstantial  a  pleasure  the  highest 
gratifications  of  it  afTord  ;  how  many  cruel  mortifications  it  exposes 
us  to." 

"  There  is,"  says  another  writer,  "  no  greater  act  of  injustice, 
none  more  detrimental  to  society,  than  to  withhold  or  withdraw  the 
meed  of  renowji  from  the  real  benefactors  of  our  race. 

'•  A  desire  to  possess  the  esteem  and  gratitude  of  our  fellow 
creatures,  though  not  the  highest,  is  yet  one  of  the  most  legitimate 
motives  of  meritorious  exertions ;  one  which  should  never  be  wan- 
tonly repressed  by  giving  currency  to  either  contemporary  or  pos- 
thumous calumny  against  a  useful  citizen." 

These  sentiments  are,  in  our  opinion,  so  just  and  at  the  same  time 
so  well  expressed,  that  the  intelligent  reader  will  at  once  perceive 
their  apphcability  to  those  subjects  which  we  have  just  been  con- 


372 


THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 


sidering  ;  and  no  apology  will  be  required  for  inserting  them  in  this 
place. 

Fig.  173,  represents  a  front  elevation  of  a  power  loom,  showing 
a  novel  method  of  working  the  headles,  as  well  as  of  throwing  the 
shuttle  ;*  and  Fig.  174,  is  a  view  of  the  crank  or  driving  shaft  de- 
tached from  the  loom. 

The  nature  of  this  improvement  consists,  in  constructing  the 
crank  or  driving  shaft  with  a  cylindrical  cam  on  one  end  of  it,  as 
shown  to  the  left  in  both  Figs.,  a  groove  being  made  round  the  pe- 
riphery of  this  cam,  by  means  of  which,  in  connexion  with  an  in- 
tervening lever  and  straps,  the  headles  are  worked  ;  and  also  ano- 
ther lever  of  similar  form  receives  its  motion  in  the  same  way,  for 
the  purpose  of  throwing  the  shuttle.  The  latter  of  these  levers 
communicates  motion  to  the  picker  staff,  by  means  of  a  connecting 
rod,  at  its  lower  extremity,  as  shown  in  Fig.  174. 

Pig.  173. 


Fig.  174. 


a  a,  is  the  frame  of  the  loom  ;  h  b,  the  crank  shaft,  carrying  the 
fast  and  loose  pulleys  c,  on  one  end,  outside  the  frame,  and  on  the 


*  A  patent  for  this  improvement,  was  granted,  in  the  United  States,  to 
Frederick  Downing,  bearing  date  27th  Jan.  1843. 


PLAIN    WEAVING.  373 

opposite  end,  the  cylindrical  cam  </,  having  two  spiral  grooves  e  e, 
crossing  each  other ;  and//,  cranks  of  the  shaft  b  h.  In  the  groove 
of  the  cylinder  cam  </,  two  slides  are  fitted  on  opposite  sides ;  the 
one  on  the  front  side  is  attached  to  the  lever  G,  which  has  its  ful- 
crum on  the  shaft  h,  and  turns  freely  thereon  ;  near  each  end  of  the 
lever  G,  a  slot  is  made,  in  which  stud-pins  g  g,  are  so  fastened  as 
to  be  adjustable  (by  proper  screws  and  nuts  :)  to  these  studs  are 
affixed  the  straps  i  i,  which  extend  from  thence  under  two  pul- 
leys 10,  and  up  to  the  headles ;  one  strap  being  attached  to  each 
headle. 

It  will  be  perceived,  that  by  this  arrangement,  the  headles  will 
be  worked  as  the  lever  G,  is  vibrated,  by  means  of  the  button  or 
slide  at  its  upper  end,  working  in  the  groove  e  e,  made  on  the  cir- 
cumference of  the  cylinder  d.  The  shde  or  button  in  the  groove  e, 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  cylinder,  is  connected  so  as  to  be  adjust- 
able to  the  upper  end  of  the  lever  k  ;  which  lever  also  has  its  ful- 
crum on  the  shaft  h  :  this  shaft  is  on  the  outside  of  the  loom  frame, 
parallel  with  its  side,  and  below  the  cylinder  d,  at  right  angles  to 
the  crank  shaft ;  all  of  which  will  be  easily  understood  on  examin- 
ing Fig.  173.  The  lever  k,  is  connected  to  the  picker  staff  15,  by 
means  of  the  rod  p :  this  rod  has  its  fulcrum  at  o,  at  the  under  end 
of  the  lever  k.  The  fulcrum  of  the  picker  staff  15,  is  at  the  centre 
of  the  lay  rocker  q  ;  the  top  being  connected  with  the  pickers  in  the 
usual  way.  By  this  combination,  it  will  be  perceived  that  as  the 
cylinder  cam  d,  on  the  end  of  the  driving  or  crank  shaft  b  b,  re- 
volves, and  vibrates  the  lever  k,  from  right  to  left,  and  vice  versa, 
the  shuttle  will  be  thrown. 

The  dispensing  with  cams  and  treadles  is  certainly  an  advan- 
tage :  but,  this  was  effected  by  Mr.  Stanfield,  of  Leeds,  as  far  back 
as  the  year  1835.  Messrs.  Sharrocks  and  Birch,  loom  makers,  of 
Great  Ancoates  street,  Manchester,  had  the  construction  of  Mr. 
Stanfield's  machine  ;  but  it  appears  that  they  did  not  succeed  in  pre- 
vailing on  manufacturers  to  adopt  it ;  and,  we  believe  that  Mr. 
Downing's  modification  of  Stanfield's  loom  will  never  come  into 
very  general  use  either,  for  the  following  reasons  : — 

1st.  It  is  only  applicable  \vhere  two  leaves  of  headles  are  em- 
ployed ; 

2d.  It  is  only  applicable  for  weaving  hght  textures,  where  but  lit- 
tle power  is  required ; 

3d.  The  rapid  motion  of  the  crank  shaft  b  b,  will  soon  wear  out 
the  small  slides  or  buttons  which  work  in  the  grooves  e  e,  of  the 
cyhnder  d,  and  this  would  be  found  a  great  evil  in  a  large  weaving 


374  THE    ART    OP    WEAVING. 

room  containing  some  500  or  600  looms ;  but  in  a  small  concern,  it 
would  not,  perhaps,  be  much  felt ;  and  although  the  slides  or  but- 
tons were  made  of  steel,  we  think  this  defect  would  not  be  reme- 
died ;  for,  if  the  slides  were  of  harder  metal  than  that  of  the  cylin- 
drical cam  d,  the  grooves  of  this  cam  would  be  worn  out  first,  in- 
stead of  the  slides  :  in  either  case  a  clitter -clatter  would  be  the  con- 
sequence ;  and 

4th.  For  heavy  textures  (plain)  the  strain  would  be  too  great  on 
the  cam  c?,  as  well  as  on  the  bearing  of  the  shaft  hh ;  but  the  mo- 
tion for  throwing  the  shuttle  might  possibly  be  found  applicable  ; 
although,  we  think,  with  disadvantage  as  Mr.  D.  has  got  it ;  for  in 
the  working  of  the  headles,  as  well  as  in  throwing  the  shuttle,  the 
whole  of  the  strain  comes  on  the  small  slides  or  buttons  which  work 
in  the  grooves  e  e,  of  the  cylinder  cam  d. 

The  patentee  informs  us,  that,  he  fixes  a  disc  on  the  shaft  /i,  near 
the  lever  k  ;  from  the  face  of  which  disc,  two  guages  project,  one 
on  each  side  of  the  lever  k :  these  guages  have  set  screws  in  them 
to  regulate  the  distance  the  shaft  shall  be  turned  round  by  the  vi- 
bration of  the  lever  k.  This  disc  is  omitted  in  the  Figs.,  for  the 
simple  reason  that,  it  will  not  effect  what  the  patentee  tells  us,  as 
neither  a  quicker  nor  a  slower  motion  can  be  given  to  the  lever  k^ 
than  that  which  it  receives  from  the  grooves  e  e,  of  the  cylinder 
cam  d. 

Figs.  175,  176  and  176-|,  represent  an  improved  satinett  loom, 
as  constructed  by  Elijah  Fairman,  of  Stafford,  Connecticut ;  and 
for  which  he  obtained  a  patent  in  the  United  States ;  bear- 
ing date  the  6th  of  February,  1838.  The  subject  of  Mr.  F's. 
patent  is  in  the  application  of  an  additional  cams,  or  cam,  to 
the  horizontal  treadles  or  levers  shown  in  Fig.  176  ;  which  levers 
it  will  be  seen  have  their  cam  shoes  in  opposite  directions,  the  top 
set  of  shoes  to  the  left  and  the  bottom  set  to  the  right.  Mr.  F.  also 
claims  the  application  of  the  additional  set  of  cords  or  strings  con- 
nected to  the  under  extremities  of  these  upright  treadles  or  levers ; 
which  cords  or  strings  pass  under  a  set  of  pulleys  to  the  left,  as 
shown  in  Fig.  176,  and  are  then  connected  to  the  headles  under- 
neath. 

The  treadles  lie  horizontally,  one  set  near  the  bottom  of  the  loom, 
and  the  other  set  near  the  top.  Each  set  of  treadles  is  supported  at 
their  outer  end  by  two  short  arms  or  bars,  projecting  from  one  of 
the  back  corner  posts  of  the  loom  ;  between  which  the  ends  of  the 
treadles  are  placed  one  upon  another,  and  a  pin  or  bolt  3,  3,  passes 
through  them  and  the  supporting  arms.     The  other  ends  of  the 


PLAIN    WEAVING. 
Fig.   175. 


375 


treadles  are  supported  by  short  thin  pieces  of  iron  or  wood,  fastened 
to  short  posts  or  studs  in  the  frame,  projecting  out  horizontally,  one 
underneath  each  treadle,  forming  rests  and  slides  for  the  treadles  to 
play  upon.  Each  treadle  has  an  iron  shoe  fastened  to  its  front  edge, 
of  a  triangular  form,  on  which  the  cam  acts  to  give  the  treadles  mo- 
tion. To  the  end  of  each  of  the  upper  treadles  are  attached  two 
cords,  one  of  which  passes  over  one  pulley,  and  the  other  over  ano- 
ther pulley,  suspended  between  two  headle  rails  at  the  top  of  the 
loom,  and  passing  down,  are  fastened  to  the  headles,  one  near 
each  end. 

To  the  end  of  each  of  the  under  treadles,  is  attached  one  cord, 
which  passes  under  a  pulley  in  the  lower  part  of  the  loom,  and 
coming  up,  is  fastened  to  the  under  side  of  the  same  headle  in  the 
centre.  These  cords  hold  the  headle  firm  that  it  cannot  move  up 
or  down,  till  moved  by  the  treadle ;  and  when  one  part  of  the  headles 
is  raised,  the  others  are  held  down,  so  that  the  warp  opens  to  let  the 


376 


THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

Fig.  176. 


shuttle  pass  freely.  The  cams  by  which  the  treadles  are  worked 
are  placed  near  the  top  and  bottom  of  an  upright  shaft,  so  as  to 
match  with  the  shoes  of  the  treadles,  and  are  so  arranged  that  when 
an  upper  cam  strikes  the  shoe  of  one  of  the  treadles  to  raise  a 
headle,  the  corresponding  treadle  in  the  lower  set  attached  to  the 
same  headle,  gives  way  to  the  motion,  by  its  shoe  being  drawn  into 
an  appropriate  space  in  the  cylinder  cam ;  and  when  the  upper  cam 
has  passed  the  shoe  of  the  treadle,  the  treadle  is  drawn  back  to  its 
place  again,  by  the  shoe  of  the  under  treadle  being  thrown  out  of 
its  space,  and  pulling  upon  the  headle  cord.  By  these  alternate 
movements  of  the  treadles,  by  the  aid  of  an  additional  cam,  the  ac- 
tion is  made  free  and  easy,  and  the  headles  kept  closely  confined  to 
their  places,  and  made  to  open  wider  and  more  clear,  that  the  shut- 
tle may  pass  without  danger  of  over-shots. 

The  cam  shaft  is  turned  by  means  of  a  bevel  gear  on  the  bottom 
of  the  cylinder  cam,  driven  by  a  pinion  on  the  cam  shaft  (see 
Fig.  176|.) 

Another  method  of  producing  the  same  motions  and  effecting  the 
same  object,  is  to  have  but  one  set  of  long  double  treadles,  standing 
upright,  extending  from  top  to  bottom  of  the  loom,  and  turning 
upon  a  pin  in  the  centre,  which  passes  through  them,  and  a  short 


PLAIN    WEAVING. 


377 


<^?^wd 


arm  or  bar  on  each  side,  firmly  attached  to  the  loom,  to  support  the 
treadles,  as  in  Fig.  176. 

The  cams,  such  as  already  described,  are  placed  horizontally  be- 
tween two  bars  or  arms  attached  to  the  frame  of  the  loom  at  one 
end,  and  at  the  other  supported  by  a  post  or  posts,  standing  upon 
the  floor.  The  lower  ends  of  the  treadles  have  a  shoe  on  each  side, 
exactly  opposite,  and  stand  directly  between  the  cams.  The  cams 
are  carried  by  a  bevel  gear  and  pinion  similar  to  those  by  which  the 
horizontal  treadles  are  moved ;  the  pinion  being  placed  upon  the 
end  of  the  cam  shaft.  By  the  action  of  the  cams  on  each  side  of 
the  treadles,  they  are  thrown  alternately  one  way  and  the  other, 
giving  the  same  motion  to  their  upper  ends,  but  in  a  contrary  di- 
rection. 

But  as  this  loom  is  nearly  the  same  as  those  in  common  use,  it 
is  not  necessary  to  describe  more  particularly  its  parts  ;  reference  to 
the  Fisrs.  will  suffice  : 


Fig.  175,  Perspective  view  of  the  loom. 
A  A  A  A,  The  4  corner  posts  of  the 
frame. 

B,  Breast  beam. 

C,  Cloth  roller,  witli  ratchet  wheel, 
&c. 

D,  Buck  whip  roller. 


E,  Yarn  beam,  with  heads. 

F,  Driving  shaft. 

G,  Driving  wheel. 

H,  Lay  arm,  connecting  tl^ie  lay  with 

the  crank  wheel  G. 
I,  Cam  shaft  wheel. 
J,  The  picker  stair. 


48 


378 


THE    ART    OF    "WEAVING. 


K,  Cam  shaft. 

L,  Headles. 

M,  Separate  cams  by  which  the  up- 
per treadles  are  worked,  one  to 
each  treadle. 

N,  Lower  treadles. "]  Each  treadle  has 
I  an  iron  shoe  on 
i  which  the  cam 
1   acts.  (See  Fig. 

O,  Upper  treadles.  J    176^-. 

P  P,  Bars  to  separate  and  support  the 
ends  of  the  treadles,  and  on  which 
the  treadles  slide. 

Q,  Q,,  Posts  to  support  the  headle 
rails,  &c. 

R,  Headle  rails,  between  which  the 
headle  pulleys  are  hung. 

S  S  S,  Headle  pulleys. 

T  T  T,  Headle  cords.  From  each 
upper  treadle  pass  two  cords,  one 
over  each  of  the  top  pulleys,  and 
fastened  to  the  headles  near  each 
end.  From  each  bottom  treadle, 
one  cord,  passing  under  the  under 
pulley  and  iastened  to  the  centre 
of  the  bottom  of  the  headles. 

Fig.  176,  Represents  the  upright 
double  treadles,  and  the  mode  of 
operation. 

a  a,  Two  arms  or  bars,  attached  to 
the  frame  of  the  loom ;  either  to 
the  cross  girt  or  otherwise,  as 
judged  best,  and  supported  by  a 
post  or  posts,  standing  upon  the 
floor. 

b  b,  Two  arms  attached  to  the  frame, 


between  which  the  treadles  are 
placed  and  are  supported,  and  turn 
upon  a  pin  passing  through  them 
and  the  arms. 

C-,  The  treadles. 

ddd,  The  headle  cords  and  pulleys 
over  which  they  pass. 

e.  The  cylinder  cam,  and  e',  bevel 
gear  and  pinion,  as  in  Fig.  176|. 

f,  Upper,  or  6  part  cam,  as  in  Fig. 
176^. 

gg,  Two  match  wheels  on  the  outer 
ends  of  the  cam  shafts. 

h,  Shoes  on  each  side  of  the  treadles. 

i,  End  of  the  cam  shaft. 

J',  Shoe  on  the  upper  end  of  the  trea- 
dle. Shows  that  the  same  opera- 
tion may  be  had  by  placing  one  of 
the  cams  at  the  top,  and  on  the 
same  side  as  the  one  at  bottom. 

Fig.  176^,  Represents  the  cylinder 
cam  at  the  bottom  of  the  headle 
cam  shaft,  with  the  bevel  gear,  and 
the  pinion  on  the  cam  shaft ;  and 
the  grooves  on  the  cam  into  which 
the  shoes  of  the  treadle  fall  alter- 
nately, or  are  driven  in  as  the  cor- 
responding treadle  is  thrown  out  to 
raise  the  headles.  It  also  shows 
the  form  of  the  cams  on  the  upper 
end  of  the  shatt,  and  one  of  the 
treadles  as  operated  upon  by  a 
cam ;  the  cam  is  on  its  end  a  12th 
part  of  a  circle,  and  the  6  are  cast 
in  one  piece,  one  cam  above  ano- 
ther to  match  the  treadles. 


The  connexion  by  cords  from  the  bottom  of  the  headles  to  the 
ends  of  a  series  of  horizontal  or  vertical  levers  fv  not  Jieic. 

The  vertical  levers  having  shoes  at  each  end,  on  opposite  sides, 
as  shown  in  Fig.  176,  with  their  mode  of  operation,  will,  no  doubt, 
answer  for  looins  where  a  few  leaves  of  headles  only  are  necessary  ; 
but  in  looms  for  weaving  fancy  textures,  where  from  10  to  100 
leaves  are  required,  Mr.  F's.  plan  would  be  utterly  impracticable.  In 
such  looms,  in  order  to  comprise  as  many  leaves  as  possible  in  a 
small  compass,  they  are  made  of  different  depths,  and  their  respec- 
tive shafts  are  arranged  one  tier  above  another,  to  a  sufficient  height 
to  prevent  them  from  touching  when  the  sheds  are  opened.  Thus, 
for  example,  were  a  mounting  to  consist  of  90  leaves,  which  is  not 
uncommon  for  some  of  the  finer  kinds  of  silk  patterns  woven  in 
Spitalfields,  and  were  the  shafts  made  about  ^th  of  an  inch  thick, 
the  whole,  by  arranging  them  in  three  tiers  of  thirty  shafts  each, 
might  be  comprised  in  about  the  space  of  5  inches.     In  such  cases, 


PLAIN    WEAVING.  379 

neither  the  vertical  treadles  or  levers,  shown  in  Fig.  176,  nor  the 
horizontal  treadles,  represented  in  Figs.  175  and  176^,  would  an- 
swer at  all,  owing  to  the  space  they  would  occupy  ;  for  it  would  be 
necessary  to  make  them  suificiently  thick  to  bear  the  strain  required 
for  opening  the  various  sheds.  European  weavers  always  use  sink- 
ing cords  attached  to  suitable  levers,  in  connexion  with  raising 
cords,  and,  indeed,  they  cannot  do  otherwise  in  the  manufacture  of 
various  kinds  of  tweeled  and  fancy  goods.  For  further  illustration 
of  this  subject,  see  Section  Second. 

An  invention  for  stopping  the  loom  when  the  weft  thread  breaks, 
was  made  the  subject  of  a  patent  by  O.  M.  Stillman,  of  Stonington, 
Conn.,  in  November  1S41.  This  improvement  consists  in  making 
the  loom  stop  of  itself  when  the  weft  thread  breaks  or  becomes  ex- 
hausted, by  the  aid  of  a  contrivance  fixed  on  the  breast  beam  near 
its  centre  and  directly  in  front  of  the  lay.  The  loom  represented  in 
the  Figs,  is  of  the  usual  form,  showing  the  stop-thread  motion 
attached  :  the  same  letters  of  reference  indicate  similar  parts  in 
the  Figs. 

This  contrivance  consists  of  a  small  iron  plate  e,  Fig.  177,  on 
the  upper  side  of  the  breast  beam,  under  the  cloth  ;  on  the  under 
side  of  the  plate  e,  is  placed  a  slide  s,  the  part  under  the  plate  being 
in  the  form  of  a  staple,  and  extending  back  to  the  square  hole  in 
the  plate,  so  as  to  come  against  the  pin  b,  which  stands  up  in  the 
hook  a  ;  the  other  end  being  a  small  bar  with  a  series  of  pins  or 
teeth. 

A  piece  of  iron  B,  Fig.  178,  is  placed  on  the  under  side  of  the 
breast  beam  below  the  plate  e,  and  is  supported  by  a  bolt  passing 
through  it  into  the  breast  beam,  but  left  sufficiently  loose  on  the 
bolt  to  allow  of  vibration.* 

The  hook  a,  is  attached  to  the  inner  end  of  the  piece  B,  by  a  pin 
on  w  hich  it  works  easy,  so  that  the  hook  a,  may  rise  and  fall.  The 
pin  6,  is  made  fast  in  the  hook  piece  a,  as  shown  in  Fig.  178,  and 
stands  up  near  the  breast  beam,  passing  through  the  hole  in  the 
plate  e,  as  represented  in  Figs.  178  and  179.  A  small  spring  f , 
fastened  on  the  front  of  the  breast  beam,  presses  the  pin  6,  forward 
against  the  slide  5,  which  carries  the  small  pins  or  teeth.  A  piece 
of  steel  d^  is  riveted  to  the  side  of  the  iron  B,  making  a  right  angle 
with  it,  and  set  so  as  to  lap  on  the  end  of  the  shipper  k,  which  is 
hung  on  the  under  side  of  the  breast  beam,  and  extends  a  little  be- 


*  It  would  be  difficult  to  apply  this  motion  of  Mr.  Stillman's  to  looms  where 
a  roller  was  used  instead  of  a  breast  beam. 


380 


THE    ART    OF    "V^  EAVING. 

Fig.  177,  178  and  179. 


yond  the  vertical  lever  o.  This  lever  o,  is  of  the  ordinary  descrip- 
tion ;  and  it  is  b}-  it.  through  the  agency  of  the  protecting  pin  p, 
Fig.  179,  striking  against  the  point  k,  of  the  horizontal  lever  under- 
neath the  breast  beam  that  the  belt  is  shifted  from  the  tight  pulley 
on  to  the  loose  one. 

When  a  thread  of  weft  is  thrown  through  the  shed,  the  reed 
brins'S  it  up  against  the  teeth  of  the  slide  s  ;  ichich  teeth  are  also 
brought  up  to  the  cloth,  the  inner  end  of  the  slide  .?,  forcing  the 
pin  b.  back  towards  the  breast  beam,  bending  the  spring  v,  and 
raising  tlie  hook  a,  (Fig.  179)  passes  under  it  without  collision.* 
The  teetli.  being  thus  woven  into  the  cloth,  are  held  brj  the  thread 
vvtil  the  lay  is  carried  back  and  the  headles  change  position 
by  springing  open  a  new  shed,  the  action  of  which  operation 
raises  the  cloth  sufficiently  to  set  the  pins  free,  when  the  spring 
V  jerks  the?Ji  forward  in  the  v:arp,  ready  to  receive  another 
weft  thread. 


*  The  vreft  thread  must  be  stro7ig  enough  to  enable  the  slide  s,  to  overcome 
the  elasticity  of  the  spring  r.  This  we  consider  to  be  a  rei-y  serious  defect ; 
because  the  contrivance  could  not  be  used  vrith  certainty  on  looms  for  vearing 
fine  or  delicaie  textia^es  on  that  very  account,  even  if  it  had  no  other  fault. 


PLAIN    WEAVING.  381 

When  there  is  no  weft  thread  to  hold  the  teeth,,  they  follow  the 
reed  as  it  moves  forward,  thereby  letting  down  the  hook  a,  in  time 
to  come  in  contact  with  the  permanent  oblique  hook  c,  (Fig.  179) 
against  which  it  slides,  forcing  the  piece  B,  sidewise,  turning  on  its 
bolt,  which  brings  the  steel  piece  d,  against  the  lever  k,  driving  it 
back  sufficiently  to  cause  the  other  extremity  behind  the  vertical 
lever  o,  to  stop  the  loom,  as  in  case  of  the  protecting  pin  j),  (Fig.  179) 
striking  it  in  the  ordinary  way.  The  motion  of  the  steel  piece  d, 
being  circular,  it  slides  on  the  lever  A*,  a  little  as  it  takes  it  back, 
which  brings  the  steel  piece  d,  before  the  protecting  pin  j9,  and  stops 
the  lay  should  its  momentum  carry  it  far  enough  after  the  belt  is 
thrown  off  the  tight,  on  to  the  loose  pulley. 

This  contrivance  might  be  added,  with  considerable  advan- 
tage, to  looms  for  weaving  wide  textures,  where  the  speed  is  only 
38  or  40  picks  of  weft  per  minute ;  but  for  looms  of  much 
greater  velocity,  it  would  not  answer  at  all ;  and  this  will  be  evi- 
dent enough  when  we  consider  the  mode  in  which  the  slide  piece  5, 
carrying  the  pins  or  teeth,  is  acted  upon  by  the  weft  thread  and 
reed.  Indeed,  the  very  rapid  motion  of  some  looms  would  soon  in- 
jure that  part  of  the  reed  which  came  in  contact  with  the  pins  in 
the  slide  piece  s.  AVe  think  that  the  action  of  the  needles  or  pins 
in  the  slide  5,  in  entering  between  the  threads  of  warp,  would  be 
very  imcertain,  or  hajo-hazard.  The  needles  or  pins  should  not 
be  made  sharp  at  their  points,  as  they  would  be  very  apt  to  split 
any  warp  threads  with  which  they  came  in  contact  in  tlieir  ascent ; 
neither  should  they  be  too  blunt,  as  they  would  break  the  threads. 
This  motion  is  not  applicable  to  looms  for  weaving  figured  goods, 
nor  to  those  where  the  cloth  does  not  spring  or  become  elevated  du- 
ring the  process  of  forming  the  shed ;  because  the  pins  cotdd  not 
disengage  thetnselves  from  the  cloth  in  such  looms.  These  ob- 
stacles, with  many  others  which  we  could  mention,  will  prevent 
Mr.  Stillman's  motion  from  becoming  of  any  great  practical  utility. 

Mr.  William  Thomas  Shallcross,  of  Holt  Town,  near  Manches- 
ter, obtained  a  patent  in  January,  1833,  for  improvements  in  power 
looms.  The  first  part  of  the  improvement  consists,  in  driving  the 
shuttle  with  greater  rapidity,  and  the  second,  in  a  new  mode  of 
working  the  beadles  and  taking  up  the  cloth. 

The  patentee  considers,  that  the  construction  of  a  power  loom 
being  well  understood,  it  is  not  necessary  for  him  to  describe  one, 
but  only  to  point  out  those  variations  in  parts  of  the  mechanism 
which  he  claims  as  improvements.  The  contrivance  by  which  the 
first  object  is  to  be  effected,  is  represented  in  his  drawings  in  perspec- 


382  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

live  upon  a  very  small  scale,  and  it  is  so  indifferently  described  that 
we  can  only  understand,  that,  there  is  a  pinion  which  takes  into  the 
crank  wheel,  and  that  to  a  pin  in  this  wheel  a  connecting  rod  is  at- 
tached, which  is  also  attached  to  a  double  crank.  Then  follows  a  se- 
ries of  other  wheels,  rods  and  cranks  (which  we  have  in  vain  attempt- 
ed to  link  together,)  and  ultimately  the  movements  thus  obtained, 
drive  the  picker  staff  and  causes  the  shuttle  to  rush  through  the  shed 
with  the  utmost  desperation.  Several  variations  of  the  arrangement 
of  mechanism,  accompany  the  specification,  but  all  are  equally  ob- 
scure :  the  patentee  says,  that  by  these  means  he  renders  a  loom 
"  less  complicated  than  herefofore,^^  and  that  by  it  "  labour  and  ma- 
terials are  economized,"  and  that  "  the  power  for  driving  the  loom 
will  be  greatly  diminished;"  all  of  which,  if  true,  we  regret  we  have 
not  been  able  to  discover.  The  other  features  are  rendered  equally 
unintelligible,  by  the  smallness  of  the  figures,  the  obscurity  of  the  de- 
scription, and  the  absence  of  letters  of  reference  in  many  parts. 
The  inventor  does  not  claim  the  framing  of  the  loom ;  which  in 
our  opinion  is  a  very  great  oversight  on  his  part. 

Thomas  Welch,  of  Manchester,  cotton  spinner,  obtained  a  patent 
in  October,  1833,  for  a  method  of  producing  a  varied  degree  of 
speed  in  taking-  up  the  cloth.  By  the  usual  method,  as  the 
cloth  is  wound  round  the  cloth  roller  every  additional  fold  in- 
creases its  diameter  ;  so  that  each  succeeding  fold  is  wound  on 
with  a  greater  degree  of  speed  than  the  one  precedhig  it,  Avhereby 
the  texture  of  the  cloth  is  impaired,  and  the  number  of  picks  to 
an  inch  is  lessened.  The  following  is  the  mode  of  applying  Mr. 
Welch's  invention  to  a  power  loom  : — 

A  block  of  wood  is  provided,  which  the  patentee  calls  a  saddle, 
the  face  of  which  is  hollowed  out,  so  as  partially  to  clasp  the  cloth 
roller,  and  the  greatest  diameter  of  cloth  to  be  rolled  on  at  one  time 
before  cutting  it  out  of  the  loom.  This  saddle  is  connected,  by  a 
joint  pin,  with  the  short  side  arm  of  an  upright  crank  lever,  afifixed 
to  the  framing  of  the  loom  ;  from  the  centre  of  this  lever,  a  long 
front  arm  protrudes,  having  a  forked  end  which  guides  an  endless 
strap  or  band  that  passes  over  two  conical  drums  (like  that  marked 
S,  in  Figs.  5  and  6,  Plate  III)  one  of  which  is  on  the  tappet  shaft 
of  the  loom,  its  broadest  end  being  nearest  the  centre  of  the  shaft ; 
the  other  drum  is  on  a  counter  shaft,  near  the  cloth  roller,  its  end 
being  farthest  from  the  centre  of  the  shaft.  Motion  is  communica- 
ted to  this  drum  from  the  drum  on  the  tappet  shaft  by  means  of  the 
endless  band  just  mentioned. 

The  outer  end  of  the  counter  shaft  is  provided  with  a  pinion, 


PLAIN    WEAVING.  383 

which  drives  a  series  of  wheels  and  pinions  ; — these  communicate 
motion  to  a  wheel,  fastened  on  the  end  of  the  cloth  roller,  which  is 
thus  caused  to  revolve.  One  of  the  wheels,  and  one  of  the  pinions 
are  provided  with  a  catch  box,  to  which  is  attached  a  spring  lever 
by  which  they  may  be  thrown  in  or  out  of  gear  as  occasion  re- 
quires. 

At  every  succeeding  fold  of  cloth  added  to  the  roller  it  will  gradu- 
ally push  the  short  side  arm  of  the  crank  lever  back,  by  pressing 
against  the  saddle  ;  by  this  means,  the  lever  will  be  turned  partly 
round,  and  its  long  arm  will  cause  the  endless  band  to  traverse  to- 
wards the  pointed  end  of  the  drum  on  the  counter  shaft,  by  which 
means  the  last  mentioned  drum  will  be  caused  to  revolve  more 
slowly  ;  therefore,  slower  motion  will  be  communicated  to  the  cloth 
roller,  by  the  wheels  and  pinions,  but  the  cloth  (says  the  patentee) 
will  be  wound  on  with  the  same  degree  of  speed  as  at  first,  owing 
to  the  increased  diameter  of  the  cloth  beam. 

In  order  to  insure  steadiness  of  action,  when  applying  this  inven- 
tion to  the  taking-up  of  the  cloth,  having  a  large  number  of  picks 
to  the  inch,  the  patentee  adopts  the  following  arrangement  of  parts : 

From  the  back  of  the  saddle,  a  flat  bar  of  iron  extends,  and  is 
formed  into  a  rack  ; — this  bar  travels  in  an  eye,  attached  to  the 
centre  of  a  bar,  one  end  of  which  is  fastened  to  the  breast  beam  of 
the  loom,  and  the  other  end  extends  out,  and  forms  a  support  for  an 
upright  axle.  To  the  upper  part  of  this  axle,  is  fastened  a  small 
spur  wheel,  which  is  worked  by  the  rack  before  mentioned  ;  and  to 
the  lower  part  of  this  axle,  is  fastened  a  large  spur  wheel,  which 
works  a  rack,  provided  with  a  pair  of  prongs ; — these  prongs  act  on 
the  endless  bands. 

The  saddle  is  kept  in  contact  with  the  cloth  roller,  by  means  of  a 
spring,  and  the  other  parts  remain  the  same  as  before  ;  the  motion 
of  the  cloth  roller  being  varied  by  the  traversing  of  the  endless 
bands.  The  following  is  the  mode  of  applying  this  contrivance  to 
a  hand  loom  : — 

The  saddle,  upright  crank  lever,  and  its  arms,  as  w^ell  as  the  pin- 
ions and  wheels  which  turn  the  cloth  roller,  are  the  same  as  in  the 
first  instance,  with  the  exception  of  the  catch  box  and  spring  lever, 
which  are  removed  for  the  reason  hereafter  explained. 

The  drum,  which  was  before  on  the  tappet  shaft,  is  now  fastened 
on  a  crank  shaft,  having  two  cranks,  and  is  steadied  in  its  revolu- 
tions by  a  fly  wheel,  at  one  or  both  ends.  This  shaft  is  turned  by 
two  crank  arms,  extending  from  the  lay  to  the  crank,  and  it  com- 
municates motion,  by  means  of  an  endless  band  (and  two  stout 


384  THE    ART    OP    WEAVING. 

Irishmen)  to  the  other  drum,  which  is  fastened  on  a  counter  shaft, 
the  endless  band  being  caused  to  traverse  by  the  long  arm  of  the 
lever,  in  the  manner  above  described. 

The  patentee  says,  in  concluding  his  specification,  that  "when 
the  lay  ceases  its  vibrations  the  whole  must  stop  ;  therefore,  the 
catch  box  and  spring  lever,  for  throwing  the  wheels  and  pinions 
out  of  gear,  in  order  to  stop  the  cloth  roller,  are  useless  ;"  to  which  we 
respond,  yaw  !  yaw  ! !  yaw  !  !  !  That  the  machinery  of  a  com- 
mon power  loom  should  continue  its  regular  evolutions  after  the 
lay  ceases  to  vibrate,  is,  mdeed  a  mysterious  affair ;  and  is  well 
worthy  the  attention  of  the  learned.  The  looms  represented  at 
Figs.  161,  162,  163  and  164  will  accomplish  the  object  of  this 
patent  with  much  greater  precision  and  simplicity ;  to  which  Figs, 
the  reader  is  referred. 

The  cone  di'ums,  applied  to  looms  for  taking  up  the  cloth  in  the 
way  claimed  by  3Ir.  Welch,  is  an  old  German  idea,  and  is  not  worth 
a  stiver. 

Thomas  Mellowdew,  of  "Walshaw  Cottage,  Oldham,  Lancastei, 
mechanic,  obtamed  a  patent  in  May,  1838,  for  improvements  in 
looms ;  which  improvements  consist  in  certain  machinery  to  be 
attached  to  looms  for  weaving  various  kinds  of  cloth ;  and  set  in 
7notion  by  the  jjuU,  strain,  or  jerk  given  to  the  warp  threads 
by  the  blow  of  the  reed  in  beating  up  the  iceft:  and  which 
produces  by  its  action  a  regular,  corresponding,  and  sufBcient  de- 
livery from  the  warp-beam,  and  taking  up  of  the  cloth  on  the  cloth- 
roller  so  long  as  there  is  weft-thread  added  ;  but  which  dehvery  and 
taking  up  cease,  in  case  of  the  breaking  or  non-delivery  of  the  weft, 
or  shortly  aftericards,  in  consequence  of  the  reed  on  being  at  such 
times  stmck  up,  meeting  with  a  diminished  resistance,  inadequate 
to  cause  a  sufiicient  pull,  strain,  or  jerk  upon  the  warp  threads,  to 
produce  the  effect  required,  although  the  general  evolutions  of  the 
loom  continue. 

We  need  not  here  recapitulate  the  immense  long  3'arn  given  by 
the  patentee,  as  explanatory  of  his  invention,  as  all  that  it  effects 
may  be  accomphshed  by  the  loom  represented  in  Fig.  1 71,  by  that 
shown  at  Figs.  165,  166,  167  and  168,  or  by  that  at  Fig.  169  ; 
either  of  which  looms  is  far  superior  (both  as  regards  working  and 
simplicity  of  construction)  to  Mr.  Mellowdew's,  as  any  manufactu- 
rer pretending  to  a  knowledge  of  such  subjects  wiU  at  once  per- 
ceive. In  summing  up  his  specification,  Mr.  .Mellowdew  says, 
"  what  I  claim  as  my  invention,  is  the  causing  the  pull  or  strain 
upon,  or  jerk  of  the  warp-threads,  occasioned  by  the  blow  of  the 


PLAIN   WEAVING.  385 

reed  in  beating  up  the  weft  when  sufficient  resistance  has  been  pre- 
sented to  it  by  the  supply  of  the  weft  from  the  shuttle  to  produce, 
by  means  of  a  vibrating  carrying  roller,  (whip-roller)  supported  on 
vibrating  levers,  and  acted  upon  by  the  jerk  of  the  warp  with  the 
other  machinery  herein  described,  when  attached  to  looms  for  weav- 
ing various  kinds  of  cloth,  a  regular  corresponding,  and  sufficient 
delivery  of  yarn  from  the  warp-beam,  and  taking  up  of  cloth  on 
the  cloth  roller,  so  long  as  the  proportionate  fiUing  up  of  the  weft 
continues,  but  which  delivery  and  taking  up  will  cease  in  case  of 
the  breaking  or  non-delivery  of  the  weft,  or  shortly  afterwards^  in 
consequence  of  the  reed,  on  being  struck  up,  meeting  with  a  dimin- 
ished and  inadequate  resistance,  and,  therefore,  causing  a  diminish- 
ed pull,  strain,  or  jerk."  All  this,  as  we  before  observed,  may  be  ef- 
fected with  the  modification  of  Mr.  Stone's  loom,  shown  at  Fig.  171 ; 
and  which  modification  was  made  the  subject  of  a  patent  in  the 
United  States,  as  formerly  stated,  23d  November,  1837,  about  six 
months  prior  to  the  date  of  Mr.  Mellowdew's  patent.* 

We  might  here  give  accounts  of  some  50  or  60  other  contrivan- 
ces which  have  been  made  the  subjects  of  patents  in  Great  Britain, 
France,  Belgium  and  America,  for  several  years  past,  for  governing 
the  delivery  of  the  warp  and  the  taking  up  of  the  cloth  in  common 
power  looms ;  but  none  of  which  contrivances  are  at  all  equal  in 
point  of  practical  utility  or  simplicity  to  those  shown  at  Figs.  165, 
166,  167,  168,  169,  170  and  171.  For  weaving  delicate  textures, 
such  as  gauze,  light  silk  stuffs,  &c.  positive  take  up  motions  (in 
connexion  with  a  motion  to  stop  the  loom  when  the  weft  thread 
breaks  or  becomes  expended  on  the  cop  or  bobbin)  must  be  used 
instead  of  the  vibrating  reed ;  we  shall,  therefore,  close  this  part  of 
our  subject  by  referring  the  reader  to  Section  Twelfth. 

*  Whenever  a  patentee  intends  fraud  or  concealment,  he  finds  it  most 
easily  accomplished  by  drawing  out  a  long  and  intricate  specification ;  de- 
scribing in  a  manner  as  minute  and  circumlocutory  as  possible  hundreds  of 
well-known  parts,  and  summing  up  his  claims  in  so  ambiguous  a  manner  as 
to  defy  all  the  powers  of  human  penetration  to  discover  (heir  meaning.  Such 
scare-crow  specifications  afford  to  the  designing  an  ample  pretence,  and  an 
effectual  cover  for  private  injustice  and  professioneJ  rapacity.  We  could 
name  iustsmces  were  we  disposed  to  be  personal. 

49 


3S6  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 


SECTION  ELEVENTH. 


FANCY    WEAVING. 

"  The  wise  and  prudent  conquer  difficulties 
By  daring  to  attempt  tliem.     Sloth  and  folly 
t"-  Shiver  and  shrink  at  sight  of  toil  and  danger 

And  make  the  impossibility  they  fear." — Rowe. 

By  the  term  fancy  weaving  avc  mean  the  weaving  of  tl^ose  small 
patterns  which  are  produced  in  looms  mounted  with  leaves  of  hea- 
dles  ;  and  of  which  we  have  already  given  sufficient  explanation  in 
Sections  Second  and  Third. 

For  a  complete  description  of  the  method  of  weaving  figured  pat- 
terns of  unlimited  extent,  by  j^ower,  see  next  Section.  In  the  pre- 
sent section  we  shall  confine  our  remarks  to  those  looms  for  weav- 
ing fancy  textures  which  we  consider  to  be  of  most  practical  utility, 
with  such  other  information  as  has  a  direct  bearing  on  the  subject ; 
and,  in  the  outset,  it  may,  perhaps,  not  be  amiss  to  ofi^er  a  few  ob- 
servations on  fancy  textures  in  general. 

The  smaller  mountings,  with  leaves  of  headles,  produce  but  a 
very  limited  variety  of  patterns,  commonly  a  small  diamond  or  lo- 
zenge figure,  with  a  dot  or  speck  in  the  centre,  which  gives  it  the 
resemblance  of  an  eye  :  hence  these  figures  are  generally  denomina- 
ted bird-eye  patterns.  When  the  mountings,  however,  extend  to 
eight  leaves  and  upwards,  they  admit  of  considerable  diversity  in 
flushing,  tweeling,  and  plain  texture,  deviating  from  the  formal 
figures  of  the  bird-eye,  and  which  now  assume  the  appearance  of 
what  is  called  lined  work. 

The  draught  of  lined  work  patterns  may  be  considerably  diversi- 
fied by  dividing  the  leaves  into  two  equal  portions,  and  drawing  a 
few  sets  of  the  diamond  draught  on  each  portion,  alternately.  This 
arrangement  throws  the  group  of  small  figures  produced  by  each 
set  of  leaves,  into  alternate  squares,  somewhat  resembling  the  dam- 
board  pattern,  shown  at  Fig.  36,  Section  Second.  It  is  customary, 
however,  to  introduce  an  odd  leaf  into  these  mountings,  immediately 
between  the  divisions,  which  serves  as  a  point  leaf  to  both  sets. 

Any  number  of  concentric  figures  may  be  formed,  by  repeating 


FANCY    WEAVING.  387 

the  draught  several  times  over  the  leaves  in  one  direction,  and  re- 
turning in  the  contrary  direction  as  often  •  so  that  should  the 
draught  diverge  from  the  centre  of  the  cloth  toward  each  selvage, 
and  the  treading  continue  to  the  same  extent,  the  pattern  would 
be  one  great  figure,  composed  of  concentric  squares,  whose  dimen- 
sions and  variety  would  depend  on  the  number  of  leaves,  and  the  ar- 
rangement of  the  raising  cords. 

Tweeled  and  plain  textures. — For  patterns  of  this  kind,  the 
mountings  will  consist  of  one  set  of  plain,  and  one  set  of  tweeling 
leaves,  and  the  raising  and  sinking  cords  of  the  plain  mounting  are 
tied  alternately  on  the  tweeling  treadles.  It  must  be  observed, 
however,  that  in  all  mountings  which  have  an  odd  number  of  tweel- 
ing leaves,  double  the  number  of  treadles  are  requisite,  in  order  to 
make  the  plain  sheds  alternate  without  interruption. 

All  tweeled  stripes,  which  have  an  even  number  of  tweeling 
leaves,  are  woven  with  one  set  of  tweeling  treadles,  as  the  sheds  of 
the  plain  parts  can  then  be  made  alternate  without  any  inter- 
ruption. 

Where  the  pattern  will  permit,  the  greater  portion  of  the  tweeling 
leaves  should  be  sunk,  and  therefore,  the  weft  will  appear  to  most 
advantage  on  the  upper  side  of  the  cloth  while  in  the  loom.  Besides 
this  advantage,  the  strain  on  the  machinery  will  not  be  near  so 
great,  in  raising  the  smaller  portion  of  leaves. 

Sometimes  the  draught  of  a  tweeled  stripe  is  made  in  the  dia- 
mond form,  and  the  pattern  produced  is  commonly  called  a  dart 
stripe,  or  herring  bone. 

When  a  web  is  to  be  tweeled  across,  in  order  to  form  checks  or 
the  borders  of  handkerchiefs,  the  same  number  of  leaves  must  be 
employed  for  the  ground  that  are  requisite  for  the  tweeled  stripe. 
Thus,  to  convert  a  four  leafed  tweel  stripe  into  a  check,  the  com- 
mon mounting  of  four  leaves,  will  produce  a  similar  tweel  across 
the  web.  But  should  the  stripe  be  woven  in  a  six  or  eight  leafed 
tweel  mounting,  the  plain  parts  must  also  be  drawn  on  six  or  eight 
leaves,  and  each  leaf  is  coided  so  as  to  rise  and  sink  alternately  in 
the  plain  parts,  but  to  produce  the  tweel  in  the  check.  Hence  it 
will  appear,  that  a  stripe  with  an  odd  number  of  tweeling  leaves 
will  not  admit  of  a  similar  tweel  for  the  crossing  or  check,  as  the 
ground  leaves  must  always  be  divided  into  equal  portions  in  weav- 
ing the  plain  parts. 

Any  tweel  of  an  even  number  of  leaves  may  be  converted  into 
stripes  and  checks ;  and  if  the  stripe  be  formed  into  a  dart  or  her- 
ring bone,  the  plain  may  be  woven  by  a  single  over  and  over 


388  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

draught,  and  converted  into  a  check  the  same  as  the  stripe,  by  work- 
ing over  the  treadles  in  one  direction  for  half  of  the  cross  stripe, 
and  reversing  the  order  of  treading  for  the  other. 

Gauze,  veining,  purles,  spidering,  &c.  are  also  variously  combined 
with  several  of  the  other  branches  of  fancy  weaving,  and  produce 
some  of  the  most  beautiful  and  delicate  patterns  in  the  silk  and 
cotton  manufactures.  To  obtain  a  knowledge  of  gauze,  veining, 
spidering,  &.c.  the  reader  must  consult  Section  Fourth. 

It  must  be  observed,  however,  that  when  gauze  and  plain  are 
woven  in  alternate  stripes,  those  parts  of  the  reed  which  are  occu- 
pied by  the  plains  will  be  full ;  but  in  the  gauze  spaces,  a  dentful 
of  the  warp  passes  through  every  second  inteival  only  ;  consequently, 
the  set  of  reed  in  the  former,  will,  in  general,  be  double  of  that  in 
the  latter.  And  hence,  when  additional  weft  is  thrown  in,  the  plain 
texture  will  make  a  pretty  bold  contrast  to  the  light  transparent 
fabric  of  the  gauze. 

As  the  warp  of  gauze,  when  converted  into  plain  texture,  produ- 
ces but  a  very  thin  or  flimsy  fabric,  it  is  necessary  to  introduce  ad- 
ditional warp  as  well  as  weft  into  those  parts  which  are  w'oven 
plain,  which,  one  being  flushed  above,  and  the  other  below,  the 
gauze  spaces,  are  afterwards  cut  away.  A  dentful  of  this  additional 
wai-p  is  taken  into  the  reed  alternately  with  a  dentful  of  the  gauze ; 
so  that  the  former,  as  noticed  above,  is  exactly  double  the  set  of  the 
latter. 

This  method  of  forming  patterns  with  gauze  and  cambric,  like 
some  of  the  other  branches  of  fancy  weaving,  may  be  extended  to 
all  the  varieties  of  a  diaper  mounting  (see  Dornic  and  Diaper,  page 
112,  Section  Second :)  for  any  draught  of  the  latter  may  be  adapt- 
ed to  the  former,  merely  by  substituting  one  set  of  gauze,  and  one 
of  plain  leaves,  for  each  set  of  the  tweel,  and  varying  the  succession 
of  the  draught  and  treading  accordingly. 

It  is  not  customary  for  the  manufacturer  to  annex  the  plans  of 
cording  to  these  compound  draughts  ;  neither  is  it  always  necessary, 
particularly  in  extensive  business,  to  represent  in  the  draught  every 
leaf  w'hich  is  requisite  in  the  mounting.  All  that  is  commonly  re- 
quired in  the  draught  is,  to  point  out  to  the  headle-maker.  the  quan- 
tity and  arrangement  of  each  kind  of  the  warp  in  one  set  of  the  pat- 
tern, with  the  number  of  times  the  pattern  is  to  be  repeated  ;  and  to 
the  weaver,  the  order  of  succession  in  which  these  several  warps  are 
to  be  drawn  into  their  respective  mountings  ;  each  being  supposed 
to  understand  his  own  department  of  the  business. 

The  first  loom  to  which  we  shall  turn  our  attention  in  this  Sec- 


FANCY    WEAVING. 


389 


don,  13  the  invention  of  Mr.  Charles  Fletcher,  an  ingenious  me- 
chanic, of  Stroud,  county  of  Gloucester ;  and  for  which  he  obtained 
a  patent  in  March,  1838.  This  loom,  being  of  vertical  construc- 
tion, differs  very  much  from  those  described  in  Section  Tenth ;  and 
although  it  is  not,  in  some  respects,  calculated  for  weaving  fancy 
textures,  we  think  it  may,  without  impropriety,  be  explained  in  the 
present  section. 

The  invention  consists,  firstly,  in  a  pecuhar  arrangement  or  dis- 
position of  mechanism,  for  the  purpose  of  weaving  woollen  goods ; 
and  secondly,  in  the  introduction  of  certain  new  parts  or  pieces  of 
mechanism  into  looms  in  general,  by  means  of  which  considerable 
advantage,  as  to  speed  and  uniformity  of  work,  is  obtained,  especi- 
ally as  regards  the  weaving  of  woollen  cloths. 

By  these  improvements,  Mr.  Fletcher  assures  us  he  is  enabled  to 
weave  better  cloth  by  power  than  has  hitherto  been  accomplished 
by  hajid,  the  cloth  being  much  firmer,  and  the  mechanism  afford- 
ing the  capability  of  making  more  "  picks"  per  minute,  and  causing 
less  breaking  of  the  warp  threads,  thereby  producing  a  fabric  of 
better  qualiti/,  and  in  greater  quantity,  in  a  given  time. 

In  this  loom  the  yarn  beam  is  situated  at  the  bottom  of  the  fram- 
ing, and  the  cloth  roller  is  placed  at  the  top  (as  in  E.  K.  Arphaxad's 
great  weaving  engine,  pages  20  to  37,  of  the  Introduction.)  Tli« 
warp  threads  proceed  through  the  headles  in  vertical  positions,  while 
the  headles  are  moved  to  and  fro  horizontally.  The  lay  is  made  to 
rise  and  fall  vertically  by  the  action  of  suitable  cams  and  levers,  and 
is  impelled  upwards  by  the  momentum  of  a  falUng  weight,  or 
Aveights,  which  can  be  so  regulated  and  adjusted  as  to  increase  or  di- 
minish the  blow,  as  may,  under  circumstances,  be  found  desirable. 
This  part  of  the  mechanism  is  also  furnished  with  suitable  elastic 
regulating  stops  for  the  rising  lay  to  strike  against  at  the  moment 
that  the  reed  is  beating  up  the  weft,  and  by  the  elasticity  of  these 
regulating  stops,  the  sudden  concussion  of  the  lay,  and  consequent 
strain  upon  the  warp  tlireads,  is  immediately  relieved  ;  whilst  the 
blow^  being  caused  by  a  descending  weight  mounted  upon  the  end 
of  a  lever  attached  to  the  cam  shaft,  any  degree  of  impulse  can  be 
given  to  the  lay  without  causing  an  undue  strain  upon  the  warp 
threads,  and  with  much  greater  effect  upon  the  cloth  than  can  be 
obtained  by  the  best  hand  loeaving. 

In  order  to  illustrate  ]Mr.  Fletcher's  improvements  in  the  construc- 
tion of  looms,  and  that  they  may  be  more  definitely  explained,  we 
have  drawn  the  figures  on  an  enlarged  scale,  which  will  enable  the 
reader  better  to  comprehend  the  novel  features  of  the  machine. 


390 


THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

Fig.  isa 


Fig.  ISO,  is  a  side  view  of  the  loom  ;  Fig.  ISl.  a  plan  view  ; 
Fig.  182,  a  back  view  ;  and  Fig.  1S3,  a  section,  taken  through  the 
middle  of  the  machine,  showing  the  position  of  the  warp  and  the 
apparatus  for  working  the  headles. 

The  side  frames,  in  which  the  ordinary  parts  of  the  loom  are 
mounted,  are  represented  at  a  a  a  a,  being  connected  by  traverses  or 
rods  b  b.  c,  is  the  yarn  beam  or  roller  (see  Fig.  183)  upon  which 
the  warp  d  d.  is  wound.  The  warp  threads  proceed  from  the  yarn 
beam  through  the  headles  e  e,  which  slide  horizontally  in  bearings 
//,  affixed  to  the  frame  a  a,  on  each  side. 

It  wiK  be  seen  that  the  cloth,  as  it  is  produced  by  the  weaving, 
proceeds  over  the  breast  beam  o--,  (Fig.  183)  to  the  cloth  roller  A.  at 
the  top  of  the  loom. 

The  shuttle  boxes  are  shown  at  i  i,  (Figs.  181  and  182)  secured 
fast  to  the  sides  of  the  frame  a  a,  and  are  quite  free  from,  and  in- 
dependent of  the  la)^  or  reed. 

Upon  the  main  driving  shaft  k,  the  strap  pulley  I  (Figs  180,  181 
and  182)  is  thrown  into  gear  with  the  driving  pinion  m,  by  means 
of  the  setting-on  rod  n  n  ;  and  the  pinion  in.  being  geared  with  the 
toothed  wheel  o,  which  is  fast  upon  the  cam  shaft  p  /?,  the  toothed 
wheels  q  q  (Figs.  181  and  183)  are  actuated.     The  larger  of  these 


FANCY    WEAVING. 

Fig.  181. 


391 


Fiff.  182. 


392 


wheels  q,  is  keyed  fast  upon  the  tappet  shaft  r  r,  upon  which  the 
the  tappets  or  cams  s  s  s,  are  also  mounted  ;  thus  it  will  be  seen, 
that  as  this  tappet  shaft  r  r,  revolves,  the  tappets  sss,  will  succes- 
sivel)^  actuate  the  treadle  levers  1 1,  and  divide  the  warp  threads  by 
shedding  the  headles  at  proper  intervals  for  the  passage  of  the  shut- 
tle uu  (Fig.  181.)  The  shuttle  is  projected  across  the  loom  by 
means  of  the  picker  stick  v,  which  is  suddenly  actuated  by  the 
spring  u',  causing  the  roller  (see  Fig.  181)  upon  the  end  of  the  short 
lever  x,  to  escape  the  step  or  fall  cut  upon  the  scroll  cam  y,  keyed 
fast  upon  the  cam  shaft  pp. 

It  will  be  seen  that  there  is  one  of  these  scroll  cams  at  each  end 
of  the  cam  shaft,  having  the  step  or  fall  cut  in  opposite  points  of 
their  peripheries,  in  order  to  effect  the  projection  of  the  shuttle  from 
each  side  of  the  loom  alternately,  which  will  be  readily  understood 
by  persons  conversant  with  the  ordinary  evolutions  of  power  looms. 

The  extreme  end  of  the  picking  stick  v,  bears  against  the  sliding 
piece  ;r,  and  exactly  at  the  point  opposite  the  centre  hne  or  point  of 
the  shuttle,  so  that  the  shuttle  will  thus  receive  a  blow  in  a  direct 
line  through  the  shed,  instead  of  being  liable  to  that  uncertain 
course  sometimes  produced  when  the  slide  piece  z,  is  attached  to  the 
picking  stick  by  a  cord.  Near  the  end  of  the  picking  stick  is  at- 
tached a  hnk  1  (see  Fig.  181)  connected  to  the  lever  2,  fast  upon 


FANCY   WEAVING.  393 

the  upper  end  of  the  vertical  rod  3  ;  which  lever  2,  is  placed  in  an 
opposite  direction  to  the  lever  x,  fast  at  the  lower  end  of  this  rod. 
By  these  means  the  picking  stick  is  suitably  actuated  by  the  rota- 
tion of  the  scroll  cam  y ;  the  vertical  rod  3,  is  also  visible  in  Figs. 

180  and  182. 

The  sudden  rise  of  the  lay  j,  and  the  necessary  sharp  blow  which 
is  desirable  to  beat  up  the  cloth,  as  each  weft  thread  is  put  in,  is  ef- 
fected by  the  cams  4,  4,  which  are  fast  upon  the  shaft  p  p,  and  con- 
sequently revolve  with  it,  actuating  the  lever  5,  fast  upon  the  cross 
shaft  6,  and  allowing  this  lever  to  escape  or  fall  past  the  straight 
side  of  the  cam,  as  will  be  clearly  seen  in  Fig.  183,  where  the  lever 
5,  is  shown  just  upon  the  point  of  escaping  the  cam  b,  and  is  drawn 
in  dotted  lines  in  the  same  figure  as  having  escaped  this  point. 

By  the  momentum  of  the  falling  weights  7,  7,  at  the  ends  of  the 
levers  8,  8,  (fast  upon  the  cross  shaft  6,  as  in  Fig.  1 83)  the  levers 
gg,  (also  made  fast  upon  the  shaft  pp,)  are  made  to  rise,  and  as 
the  frames  10,  10,  carrying  the  lay  j,  are  attached  to  the  extreme 
ends  of  these  levers  gg,  the  lay  (see  Figs.  181  and  183)  will  im- 
mediately ascend  with  a  sharp  quick  stroke,  and  thus  perform  the 
beating  up  of  the  weft  thread. 

It  will  be  seen  that  these  frames  10,  10,  (as  there  is  one  to  carry 
each  end  of  the  lay)  are  provided  with  adjustable  stop  pieces  or  set 
screws  11,  (see  Figs.  180  and  183)  so  that  the  stroke  of  the  lay  or  de- 
gree of  impetus  may  be  varied  to  suit  the  kind  of  texture  to  be  pro- 
duced. As  the  lay  ascends,  all  the  strain  upon  the  warp  threads  is  ob- 
viated by  means  of  the  India  rubber  or  other  elastic  bed  12,  (see  Figs. 

181  and  183)  with  whish  each  side  of  the  loom  is  provided,  for  the 
purpose  of  giving  a  slight  rebound  to  the  lay,  as  the  stops  11,  strike 
against  the  bed  12,  and  thus  preventing  any  possibility  of  breaking 
the  warps  in  consequence  of  the  sharpness  of  the  blow  given  by 
the  lay.  It  will  also  be  perceived  that  the  degree  of  impetus  given 
to  the  lay  may  hkewise  be  adjusted  by  sliding  the  weights  7,  upon 
the  levers  8,  8,  as  occasion  may  require. 

As  the  blow  of  the  lay  against  the  weft  thread  is  quite  sufficient 
to  cause  the  yarn  beam  to  give  out  the  quantity  of  warp  required, 
consequently,  the  taking-up  motion  which  is  usually  attached  to 
power  looms  may  be  dispensed  with,  merely  keeping  the  whole  in 
proper  tension  by  means  of  the  friction  band  or  weighted  cord  13, 
conducted  over  suitable  tension  pulleys  14,  14,  and  round  the  drums 
at  the  ends  of  the  warp  and  cloth  rollers  (see  Fig.  180.) 

In  case  the  shuttle  should  not  enter  the  shuttle  box  at  every 
stroke  of  the  picking  stick,  the  notched  lever  15,  will  catch  upon 

50  ^ 


394  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

the  tooth  or  nib  16,  (see  Figs.  180  and  181)  upon  the  lay  as  it  rises, 
and  thereby  raise  the  lever  17,  and  by  the  agency  of  the  rod  18, 
Hft  the  hand  lever  19.  off  the  pin  fixed  in  the  side  of  the  setting-on 
rod  n  n.  which  will  cause  the  spring  20,  (see  Fig.  ISO)  to  throw  the 
driving  pulley  L  (see  Fig.  181)  out  of  gear  with  the  pinion  m,  and 
thus  the  loom  will  be  stopped. 

The  most  curious  feature  in  jNIr.  Fletcher's  loom  is,  in  having  the 
shuttle  boxes  detached  from  the  lay,  and  fixed  or  made  station- 
ary upon  the  framing  of  the  loom,  or  outside  the  loom,  so  that 
when  the  warps  are  divided,  the  blow  from  the  picker  staff  can 
instantaneously  be  given  to  the  shuttle,  which  is  at  rest,  and  as 
such  blow  nviy  thus  be  giveji  in  a  direct  line  icith  the  points  or 
centre  of  the  shuttle,  the  shuttle  will  be  itnpelled  through  the 
warps  in  a  straight  undeviating  line,  instead  of  being  liable  to 
that  zi£r  zas'  course  so  frequent  in  common  poicer  looms,  caused 
by  the  direct  impetus  given  to  one  side  of  the  shuttle,  and  while 
it  is  in  a  state  of  constant  motion  with  the  vibration  of  the 
lay.  thus  frequently  throwing  the  shuttle  out  of  its  direct  course, 
causing  it  to  break  through  the  warps  and  fly  out  of  the  loom. 

This  machine  is  highly  creditable  to  the  mechanical  skill  of 
the  inventor :  and  although  the  idea  of  placing  the  warp  verti- 
cally in  a  power  loom  did  not  originate  with  Mr.  Fletcher,  yet 
we  think  his  method  of  effecting  this  object  is  decidedly  the  most 
practical  for  the  manufacture  of  plain  textures  of  any  hitherto  in- 
troduced :  it  admits,  however,  of  still  further  improvement,  and 
might,  in  skillful  hands,  be  turned  to  good  account. 

The  working  of  a  series  of  shuttle  boxes  disconnected  from  the 
lay  and  fixed  on  the  framing  of  the  machine,  or  outside  of  it.  is  not 
new,  it  having  been  introduced,  from  Persia,  into  France,  about  1.5 
years  affo.  bv  M.  Eugene  Gigot.  an  antiquarian,  of  Mulhausen  ; 
and  since  then  various  modifications  of  it  have  been  patented  in 
Great  Britain  and  America.  Messrs.  John  and  Arch'd  Reid.  of 
Glasgow,  adapted  the  detached  shuttle  boxes  to  their  vertical  power 
loom  :  for  which  loom  they  obtained  a  patent  in  1835.  In  France, 
the  detached  shuttle  boxes  have  received  the  cognomen  of  the 
"  squirrel  cage."  It  would  appear,  from  the  oration  delivered  before 
the  Median  monarch.  King  Deioces  (see  Introduction)  that  Ar- 
phaxad  was  well  acquainted  with  the  principle  of  the  rotary  de- 
tached shuttle  boxes,  and  those  procured,  in  the  East,  b}"  M.  Gigot, 
are  doubtless  of  the  invention  of  that  ancient  and  ingenious  manu- 
facturer. 

Mr.  Fletcher's  shuttle  motion,  shown  in  Fig.  181,  is  a  very  pow- 


FANCY    WEAVING.  395 

erful  one ;  and  we  think  it  might  be  used  with  advantage  on  looms 
for  weaving  wide  textures. 

Messrs.  John  Ramsbottom  and  Richard  Holl,  of  Todraorden, 
Lancashire,  obtained  a  patent  in  July,  1834,  for  certain  improve- 
ments in  the  construction  of  power  looms,  by  which  two  pieces  of 
cloth  may  be  produced  at  once.  In  their  loom,  the  warp-threads  are 
placed  vertically  in  two  ranges,  one  range  extending  from  a  yarn 
beam  below  to  the  cloth  roller  at  top  in  the  front  of  the  loom,  and  the 
other  range  extending  similarly  at  the  back  of  the  loom.  The  pa- 
tent for  this  machine  was  purchased  by  Messrs.  Cousins,  Diggles 
&  Co.,  manufacturers  and  machinists.  Bury,  Lancashire,  (where  we 
saw  the  loom,)  for  the  sum  of  £200,  sterling.  After  a  short  trial,  it 
was  foimd  not  to  answer  the  expectations  of  the  purchasers,  where- 
upon they  returned  it  to  its  original  owners.  This  same  company 
paid  us  a  handsome  sum,  in  the  year  1836,  for  an  improvement  upon 
a  power  loom  for  weaving  muslin,  and  other  light  textures ;  which, 
we  are  happy  to  say  has  met  their  most  sanguine  anticipations  :  we 
sold  the  Scotch  and  French  patents  for  the  same  invention  to  John 
Chanter,  Esq.,  of  Stamford  st.,  Blackfriars,  London. 

George  Clarke,  of  Manchester,  manufacturer,  obtained  a  patent 
in  January,  1840,  for  improvements  in  the  construction  of  looms, 
by  means  of  which  patterns  of  considerable  extent  may  be  pro- 
duced on  the  cloth.  This  invention  may  be  said  to  consist,  firstly, 
in  a  peculiar  arrangement  of  mechanism,  forming  an  endless  and 
flexible  rack  of  teeth  or  tappets,  to  be  employed  in  looms,  in  place 
of  the  ordinary  revolving  tappet-plates  or  wheels  ;  and  secondly,  in 
the  application  and  use  of  such  apparatus,  in  combination  with  cer- 
tain other  arrangements  of  mechanism. 

The  variety  of  patterns  is  obtained  by  a  greater  extent  of  opera- 
tions being  afforded  to  such  working  parts  of  the  loom  as  are  re- 
quired to  shift  the  headles,  for  shedding  the  warps,  in  order  to  work 
or  produce  the  pattern  or  figure,  without  the  assistmice  of  the  Jac- 
quard  machine. 

This  mechanism,  which  may  be  readily  applied  to  fancy  looms, 
is  so  constructed,  that  a  great  variety  of  shifts,  changes,  or  "  num- 
bers to  the  round,"  may  be  accomplished,  before  it  becomes  necessa- 
ry to  repeat  the  order  of  shedding  or  recommencing  the  same  pat- 
tern or  figure,  by  renewing  the  "  round"  (as  it  is  termed  by  the 
weaver)  and  any  required  alteration  in  the  figure  to  be  produced, 
may  be  made  with  faciUty  and  speed ;  that  is,  the  "  reading  on"  of 
the  tappets  or  teeth  may  be  varied  to  a  much  greater  extent,  than 
can  be  commonly  done  by  the  ordinary  tappet  wheels. 


396 


THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 


It  should  here  be  remarked,  that  endless  chains  or  ladders  have 
been  heretofore  employed,  for  the  purpose  of  changing  or  shedding 
the  warps,  but  they  are  constructed  so  as  to  carry  rollers,  revolving 
on  certain  bars,  as  their  axles,  and  adjustable,  longitudinally  in  their 
situation  thereon  ;  which  rollers  act  upon  certain  vertical  levers,  and 
thereby  effect  the  shedding  of  the  warps. 

But  Mr.  Clarke's  flexible  tappet  rack,  is  formed  by  simply  provi- 
ding a  given  number  of  bars  or  ribs  of  a  certain  length,  according 
to  the  number  of  shafts  or  headles  employed  in  the  loom,  or  the 
width  they  occupy,  and  placing  them  at  certain  distances  apart. 
Upon  these  bars  are  mounted,  in  any  convenient  manner,  teeth, 
tappets,  or  studs,  capable  of  being  readily  adjusted,  as  the  different 
patterns  or  devices  to  be  woven  may  require  ;  the  whole  are  formed 
into  an  endless  flexible  rack  or  band  of  tappets,  by  side  bands,  belts, 
or  chains,  hereafter  more  particularly  detailed. 

In  order  that  this  invention  may  be  more  perfectly  understood, 
two  modes  of  applying  the  improvements  are  shown  in  the  figures. 


Fig.  184. 


^^  ^^, 


FANCY   WEAVING. 


397 


Fig.  184,  is  a  front  view  of  a  power  loom,  representing  the  appli- 
cation of  one  description  or  arrangement  of  the  improved  endless 
belt  or  chain  of  tappets  to  a  loom  for  weaving  figured  fustians  ;  and 
Fig.  185,  is  a  side  elevation  of  the  same.  The  ordinary  framing 
or  loom-sides,  are  shown  at  A  A,  supporting  the  warp  roller  B,  from 
whence  the  warp  threads  C,  proceed  through  the  headles  D,  also 
through  the  reed  E,  (see  Fig.  184)  of  the  vibrating  lay  F,  (Fig. 
185)  over  the  breast  beam  G,  to  the  cloth  roller  H,  as  usual.  The 
ordinary  crank  shaft  of  the  loom  is  shown  at  I,  from  which  motion 
is  communicated  to  the  improved  mechanism,  attached  to  the  side 
of  the  loom,  and  supported  in  a  separate  framing  a  a,  as  follows : — 

Fig.  185. 


Upon  the  end  of  the  crank  shaft  I,  is  fixed  the  crank  plate  6,  (see 
Fig.  185)  revolving  in  the  ordinary  direction,  and  actuating  the 
link  c,  (see  also  Fig.  186)  attached  at  its  upper  end,  by  a  pin,  to  the 
crank  plate  6,  and  at  its  lower  end  to  the  lever  d.  This  lever  d, 
vibrates  upon  its  fulcrum  at  c,  and  carries,  at  one  extremity,  a  draw 
catch  /.     This  apparatus  is  seen  detached  from  the  loom  in  Fig. 


398 


THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 


186,  and  is  designed  for  the  purpose  of  actuating  the  catch-wheel  g^ 
one  tooth  at  every  revolution  of  the  crank  shaft  6  ;  the  catch- 
wheel  g^  is  mounted  upon  the  shaft  A,  (see  Fig.  187)  and  upon  this 
shaft,  the  notched  guide-wheels  i  i,  are  also  fixed ;  around  and 
taking  into  which,  the  flexible  rack  or  belt  of  tappets  k  k  k,  passes 
(see  Fig.  184.)  A  detached  A^iew  of  the  guide-wheels  i  i,  catch- 
wheel  g,  and  shaft  h,  is  shown  at  Fig.  187. 

Fig.  186. 


Fig.  187. 


p     h 


The  tension  pulley  97i,  placed  about  midway  in  the  frame,  is  for 
the  purpose  of  assisting  the  drag  or  weight  of  the  tappet-rack. 

It  will  now  be  seen,  that  as  the  travelling  tappet-rack  proceeds, 
the  teeth,  studs,  or  tappets  *  *,  of  which  it  is  partly  composed,  (and 
which  it  will  be  e^Hdent  to  the  practical  weaver,  are  so  placed,  ar- 
ranged, or  "  read  on,''  according  to  the  pattern  or  device  to  be  wo- 
ven,) will  strike  against  the  heads  of  the  beadle  levers  it  n,  (see 
Fig.  185)  with  one  of  which,  each  headle  D,  is  in  connexion. 
These  levers  n  n.  are  all  suspended,  and  vibrate  upon  the  shaft  or 
fulcrum  0,  (see  Fig.  185)  and  are  each  connected  by  means  of  links 
or  wires  j)  p,  to  the  hooked  hfters  qq  q,  for  the  purpose  of  throwing 
the  lifters  into  the  position,  where  they  may  be  acted  upon  by  the 
rising  cross-bar  r. 

The  requisite  action  of  the  rising  and  falling  bars  7\  r*,  (see  Fig. 
184)  is  effected,  simultaneous,  with  the  progressive  motion  of  the 
tappet-rack  k  k,  also  by  means  of  the  link  e,  vibrating  the  lever  d  ; 
on  the  other  extremity  of  which,  the  connecting  lever  5,  is  attached, 
(see  Figs.  185  and  186)  which  is  jointed  at  its  lower  end,  to  the 
crank  t,  fixed  upon  the  roller  ?f,  around  which  a  strap  or  belt  v  v, 
(see  Fig.  186)  passes,  and  over  a  similar  roller  u,  at  top.  To  this 
strap  V,  the  bars  r,  r*.  are  fixed ;  and  it  will  be  seen,  that  as  the 


FANCY    WEAVING. 


399 


strap  traverses,  by  means  of  the  vibrating  action  imparted  to  the 
crank  6,  on  the  end  of  the  crank  shaft  I,  the  requisite  alternate 
raising  and  depressing  of  these  bars  is  accompUshed  ;  they  are  kept 
in  parallel  positions,  by  traversing  up  and  down  in  mortices,  in  the 
fraine  a  a.  The  headle  levers  n  w,  are  also  brought  into  the  posi- 
tion, where  they  may  be  acted  upon  by  the  falling  bar  r*,  by  means 
of  the  weight  ?i*,  with  which  each  lever  is  furnished  (see  Fig.  185.) 
The  hooked  lifters  q  q,  are  each  separately  connected  by  a  pin  to 
vibrating  treadles  w  iv,  working  on  their  fulcrum  shaft  x,  fixed  to  the 
frame  a.  These  treadles  w  w,  are  connected  at  their  extremities,  by 
means  of  the  wires  y  y,  (see  Fig.  184)  to  the  ordinary  top  and  bot- 
tom jacks  z  z,  and,  by  the  customary  stringing,  to  the  headles  D, 
and  thus,  as  the  tappet-belt  or  rack  revolves,  will  shed  the  warp,  and 
consequently  work  the  pattern. 

Fig.  188. 


Fig.  189. 


=0 


Fig.  188,  represents  a  portion  of  the  tappet-rack  detached,  upon 
an  enlarged  scale,  and  Fig.  189,  the  several  pieces  of  which  the  im- 
proved endless  tappet-rack  is  composed.  1,  shows  a  front  view,  and 
2,  a  back  view,  of  the  perforated  bar,  for  receiving  the  studs,  teeth, 
or  tappets  2 ; — 3,  the  nut,  by  which  the  tappets  are  held,  and  ad- 
justable in  the  bar.  A  number  of  these  bars,  placed  at  suitable 
distances  apart,  and  furnished  with  the  necessary  number  of  holes 
for  "  reading  on"  the  tappet-studs,  as  the  pattern  requires,  are  formed 
into  an  endless  rack,  belt,  or  chain,  by  being  screwed  or  otherwise 
fixed  upon  a  band,  composed  of  canvas,  tape,  and  leather,  cemented 
together  by  means  of  a  solution  of  caoutchouc. 

At  Fig.  190,  a  modification  of  the  improvements,  and  the  mode 
of  applying  the  same  to  fancy  looms,  is  shown.     The  drawing  re- 


400 


THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 


presents  a  partial  sectional  view  of  the  figuring  apparatus,  attached 
to  an  ordinary  loom  side.  An  endless  belt,  or  rack  of  teeth,  studs, 
or  tappets  a  a  a,  passes  around,  and  is  progressively  actuated  by  the 
grooved  rollers  hhb^  supported  in  the  framing  ccc,  attached  to  the 
side  of  the  loom. 

Fig.  190. 


Pig.  191. 


The  moveable  tappets,  or  teeth  a  a  a,  are  suitably  arranged  upon 
their  bars  or  rails,  (as  in  the  former  instance,)  to  work  the  pattern 
or  device  required,  and  are  alternately  caused  to  raise  or  depress  the 
treadles  d  d,  successively,  by  acting  upon  the  rollers  e  e,  with  which 
they  are  provided.  Thus  the  simple  action  of  these  risers  and 
fallers  is  transmitted  directly  to  the  headles,  by  means  of  the  con- 
necting wire//,  actuating  the  top  jacks  g g,  and  bottom  jacks  h  h, 
which  are  connected  by  stringing  to  the  headles,  as  usual,  the  whole 
being  put  in  motion  by  means  of  the  spur-pinion  i,  upon  the  end 
of  the  ordinary  crank-shaft,  driving  the  spur-wheels  k,  and  /,  upon 
the  axles  of  the  grooved  or  fluted  rollers  b  b. 

The  bars  or  rails  of  tappets  are  connected  together  at  suitable 
distances  into  an  endless  chain,  by  being  confined  or  strung  together 
by  the  chain  4,  4,  shown  at  Fig.  191,  at  each  side,  or  by  any  other 
suitable  means ;  thus  it  will  be  seen,  that  these  studs  or  teeth,  and 
their  intervening  blanks  or  spaces,  may  be  so  arranged,  upon  any 
bar,  or  S3^stem  of  bars,  that  the  necessary  raising  and  depressing  of 


FANCY    WEAVING.  401 

the  treadles  d  d,  may  be  varied  or  adjusted,  to  suit  the  pattern  or 
device  required  to  be  woven ;  which  arrangement,  adjustment,  or 
"  reading  on"  of  the  tappets  or  teeth,  in  both  the  above  descriptions 
of  racks,  belts,  or  chains,  will  be  readily  understood,  and  applied  by 
the  practical  weaver. 

I'his  improved  loom  of  Mr.  Clarke's,  is,  no  doubt,  the  best  hith- 
erto introduced  for  weaving  fancy  goods,  and,  in  our  opinion,  it  is 
worthy  the  attention  of  manufacturers  of  such  textures.  Various 
other  contrivances  for  working  a  series  of  headles  have  been  invent- 
ed, by  different  individuals,  but  none  of  them  are  equal,  in  point  of 
])ractical  utility,  to  Mr.  Clarke's.  We  shall,  however,  briefly  notice 
a  few  of  those  which  are  likely  to  prove  interesting,  for  the  benefit 
of  manufacturers  who  live  in  the  country. 

Mr.  Robert  Bowman,  of  Manchester,  obtained  a  patent  in  Janu- 
ary, 1821,  for  improvements  on  the  power  loom,  enabling  him  to 
work  six  leaves  of  headles  ;  which  headles  are  suspended  by  cords 
from  the  ends  of  a  set  of  top  levers,  and  are  also  attached  to  ano- 
ther set  of  levers  or  treadles  underneath.  The  movement  for  rais- 
ing and  depressing  the  headles  is  obtained  by  means  of  two  sets  of 
tappet  wheels,  each  set  having  as  many  tappets  as  there  are  headles. 
These  tappet  wheels  are  fixed,  one  set  above  and  the  other  below, 
and  are  turned  by  means  of  a  pinion  upon  the  end  of  the  crank  or 
driving  shaft. 

Mr.  Richard  Roberts,  of  the  firm  of  Sharp,  Roberts  &  Co.,  Man- 
chester, obtained  a  patent  in  November,  1822,  for  a  tappet  wheel ; 
but  as  it  does  not  differ  in  principle  from  Mr.  Bowman's,  it  is  unne- 
cessary to  describe  it. 

John  Potter,  Esq.,  of  Smedly,  near  Manchester,  obtained  a  patent 
in  May,  1825,  for  an  improvement  in  power  looms,  for  weaving  va- 
rious kinds  of  fancy  goods  ;  which  improvement  consists,  in  working 
a  number  of  headle-leaves  by  means  of  two  series  of  levers,  attached 
to  the  side  of  the  loom,  one  series  at  top  and  the  other  at  bottom  ; 
and  as  these  levers  rise  and  fall,  the  headles  are  moved  up  and 
down,  for  the  purpose  of  shedding  the  warp.  The  apparatus  by 
which  the  levers  are  actuated,  is  similar  to  the  common  barrel  or- 
gan, and  does  not  differ,  in  any  respect,  from  that  used  by  Mr.  Fair- 
man,  in  his  loom,  shown  at  Figs.  175,  176,  and  176-^- ;  the  levers 
and  cords  which  connect  and  work  the  headles  at  top  and  bottom 
are  also  the  same  as  those  employed  by  Mr.  F. 

Joseph  Jones,  of  Oldham,  Lancaster,  cotton  manufacturer,  and 
Thomas  Mellowdew,  of  the  same  place,  mechanic,  obtained  a  pa- 
tent, June  16th,  1834,  for  improvements  in  the  construction  of 

51 


402  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

power  looms,  adapted  to  the  manufacture  of  corded  fustians,  and 
which  improvements  consist,  in  the  adaptation  of  an  endless  chain 
of  plates,  or  links,  to  the  common  power  loom,  so  constructed  as  to 
govern  the  position  of  the  headles,  according  to  the  kind  of  cord,  or 
diagonal  stripe  to  be  produced  on  the  cloth.  The  principle  of  this 
improvement  is  the  same  as  that  of  Mr.  Clarke's  invention,  repre- 
sented at  Figs.  184,  185,  186,  187,  188,  189,  190  and  191 ;  which 
precludes  the  necessity  of  a  more  detailed  description. 

Enoch  Burt,  Oliver  D.  Boyd,  and  Amos  H.  Boyd,  of  Manchester, 
Conn.,  obtained  a  patent  19th  August,  1828,  for  what  they  term, 
"  an  improvement  in  the  check  or  plaid  power  loom ;"  which  im- 
provement consists,  firstly,  in  fixing  a  wheel,  about  8  inches  in  di- 
ameter, to  the  side  of  a  common  power  loom,  upon  the  periphery  of 
which  wheel,  at  right  angles  with  its  plane,  are  constructed  as 
many  shuttle  boxes  as  there  are  colours  in  the  check  or  plaid  to  be 
woven.  On  the  backside  of  this  wheel,  is  a  small  toothed  wheel 
which  is  turned  forward  and  backward,  by  means  of  two  arcs  of  a 
circle,  or  segments  of  a  wheel,  on  the  ends  of  two  levers,  moving  on 
a  stud  as  their  common  fulcrum.  One  of  these  arcs  or  segments  is 
toothed  on  the  outside  and  the  other  on  the  inside,  embracing  be- 
tween them  the  before  named  small  toothed  w^heel.  A  power  acting 
in  the  same  direction,  alternately  on  the  other  end  of  the  said  levers 
causes  the  shuttle  boxes  to  move  forward  and  backward,  bringing 
each  shuttle  box,  in  turn,  to  a  proper  position  for  discharging  its 
shuttle  through  the  shed  and  receiving  it  again  from  a  box  of  the 
ordinary  kind  on  the  opposite  end  of  the  lay.  These  shuttle  boxes, 
containing  each  a  shuttle,  are  shifted  to  form  the  check  or  plaid  in 
the  following  manner  : — 

A  wheel,  containing  one-half  the  number  of  teeth  w^hich  the 
complete  check  or  plaid  to  be  woven  contains  threads,  is  placed  on 
a  stud-pin,  round  which  it  revolves,  at  right  angles  with  the  lower 
end  of  the  levers,  on  the  top  of  which  are  the  toothed  arcs  or  seg- 
ments. This  wheel  is  moved  a  tooth  at  every  second  stroke  of  the 
lay,  by  means  of  a  short  arm  on  the  cam  shaft  of  the  loom :  on  the 
plane  of  this  wheel  is  affixed  two  cam  plates,  whose  respective  ex- 
tremities are  met  by  the  respective  extremities  of  the  two  before 
named  levers,  as  the  lay  moves  forward  to  beat  up  the  thread.  The 
extremities  of  the  cam  plates  are  indented  and  protruded  alternately 
as  the  figure  to  be  woven  requires ;  and  when  the  wheel  to  which 
the  cam  plates  are  attached  performs  one  complete  revolution,  the 
shuttles  will  have  shifted  through  all  the  variety  of  the  check  or 
plaid  and  be  prepared  to  commence  the  same  routine  again,  without 


FANCY    WEAVING. 


403 


interrupting  the  motion  of  the  loom.  At  every  shift  of  the  shuttle 
boxes,  a  spring  arm  drops  into  a  cavity  or  notch  in  the  edge  of  the 
plane  wheel  on  which  the  shuttle  boxes  are  fixed,  by  which  they  are 
prevented  from  moving  until  required  again  to  shift ;  at  which  time, 
the  spring  arm  is  raised  out  of  the  cavity  or  notch,  by  means  of  a 
spring  fastened  at  one  end  of  the  cam  plates,  with  an  inclined  plane 
on  the  other  end,  which  is  acted  upon  by  the  lower  ends  of  the 
levers  that  move  the  boxes,  before  they  strike  the  edges  of  the  cam 
plates. 

The  shuttle  is  thrown  from  the  fixed  box  to  the  moveable  one  by 
a  picker  of  the  ordinary  kind,  but  from  the  shifting  boxes  to  the 
fixed  one  by  a  picker  lying  horizontally,  the  end  of  which  enters 
into  a  slot  or  opening  in  the  backside  of  the  moveable  boxes.  The 
loom  protects,  in  case  the  shuttle  fails  to  box,  in  the  ordinary  way, 
each  of  the  shifting  boxes  being  furnished  with  a  guard,  like  that 
in  the  fixed  box,  which  acts  in  turn  upon  the  finger  on  the  protec- 
tion rod. 

To  secure  a  correct  check  or  plaid,  tlie  loom  is  made  to  stop  in 
case  the  weft  thread  breaks,  or  has  become  expended  on  the  bobbin. 
On  the  crank  shaft,  near  the  selvage  of  the  cloth,  is  placed  a  cam 
with  a  concentral  offset  on  one  side,  to  which  an  arm,  hung  on  a 
stud,  presents  its  extreniity  when  it  is  to  stop  the  loom,  but  at  other 
times  lies  below  it.  This  arm  is  raised  by  every  revolution  of  the 
cam,  so  as  to  be  in  a  position  to  meet  its  offset,  and  is  held  in  that 
position  by  a  delicate  spring  catch  at  the  other  end  of  the  arm.  As 
the  shuttle  enters  the  box,  if  the  thread  from  the  bobbin  in  the 
shuttle  be  entire,  it  will  extend  from  the  edge  of  the  web  to  the 
shuttle  box ;  between  these  there  is  a  small  aperture  in  the  reed,  or 
at  its  end,  through  which  a  small  horizontal  slide  will  project  a  httle 
when  the  lay  is  fully  down  ;  across  this  aperture  and  in  front  of  the 
end  of  the  slider,  the  thread  will  lie,  (if  unbroken.)  where  it  is  held 
fast  by  a  cramp  that  falls  upon  it,  and  is  pressed  down  by  a 
spring  as  the  shuttle  enters  the  box,  and  which  is  thrown  back  as 
the  shuttle  leaves  the  box.  When  the  lay  moves  forw^ard,  the 
thread,  thus  extended  across  the  aperture  and  held  fast,  forces  back 
a  little  the  horizontal  slider,  which  instantly  unlocks  the  before 
named  spring  catch,  letting  the  point  of  the  lever  or  arm  fall  below 
the  offset  in  the  cam ;  but  if  there  be  no  weft  thread  across  the 
aperture,  the  slide  passes  through  without  being  driven  back,  conse- 
quently the  arm  remains  locked  and  instantly  stops  the  loom. 

Before  closing  our  observations  on  looms  for  weaving  fancy  tex- 
tures, we  shall  offer  a  few  remarks  on  the  manufacture  of  several 


404  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

kinds  of  silk  textures,  by  hand,  but  which  may  also  be  found  ap- 
plicable to  power  loom  weaving,  comprising  taffetas,  gros  de  Naples, 
satins,  &c.,  hoping  that  they  may  be  of  service  to  those  of  our 
friends  who  are  not  much  skilled  in  silk  manufactures. 

TAFFETAS. 

Taffetas  should  be  woven  with  the  warp  pretty  tight ;  and  as 
soon  as  the  shuttle  is  passed  through,  the  shed  is  to  be  closed,  just 
before  the  stroke  of  the  reed  is  given.  This  manner  of  closing  the 
shed  before  beating  up  the  weft  thread,  causes  a  better  grain  to  be 
given  to  the  cloth.  On  this  kind  of  texture,  the  temples  must  not 
at  any  time  be  at  a  greater  distance  from  the  reed  than  2  inclies, 
before  changing  them,  to  avoid  making  a  thin  place  or  shire  in  the 
fabric.  The  weaver  must  give  the  strokes  of  the  reed  with  uniform 
force.  Superior  taffeta  is  made  with  4  threads  per  dent  of  the  reed, 
and  inferior  with  3  threads  per  dent. 

SHINING  TAFFETA. 

Shining  taffeta  is  more  brilliant  than  that  just  noticed ;  and  is 
made  with  a  warp  less  light.  The  stroke  of  the  reed  is  given 
when  tbe  shed  is  nearly  full  open  ;  which  renders  the  cloth  very 
brilliant  in  appearance,  and  does  not  make  it  dri/  and  stiff :  what 
makes  it  supple,  is  that  the  warp  is  slacker'  than  in  other  taffetas. 
In  weaving  this  fabric  great  care  must  be  taken  that  the  weft 
threads  he  laid  evenly  together,  (for  more  than  one  thread  is  gene- 
rally used,)  and  when  the  shuttle  is  passed  through  the  shed,  the 
weaver  must  see  that  the  thread  from  the  shuttle  lies  properl}^,  nei- 
ther too  tight  nor  too  slack.  Care  must  also  be  taken  that  the  weft 
thread  be  always  delivered  from  the  shuttle  with  perfect  uniformity 
of  tension  ;  otherwise,  there  will  be  ins  and  oiits  in  the  selvages, 
giving  the  edges  the  appearance  of  a  carpenter^s  saw.  The 
French  are  very  particular,  indeed,  in  attending  to  these  matters, 
which  is  the  principal  reason  why  their  goods  always  feel  so  smooth 
and  soft  to  the  touch.  The  great  secret  in  manufacturing  these 
silk  textures,  is  to  make  the  greatest  possible  sJiow  with  the  least 
expense  of  material. 

GROS  DE  NAPLES. 

Gros  de  Naples  is  woven  with  the  warp  pretty  tight  in  the  loom, 
that  the  silk  may  more  easily  disengage  itself  when  the  shed  is  be- 
ing opened  ;  and  the  weft  must  be  well  struck  up.     There  must  be 


FANCY    WEAVING.  405 

two  strokes  for  each  passage  of  the  shuttle,  the  first  with  open  shed 
and  the  second  with  close  shed :  if  only  one  stroke  were  given  to 
each  crossing  of  the  weft  thread,  it  would  have  to  be  given  with 
greater  force  ;  but  then  the  fabric  would  not  be  so  good ;  whereas, 
in  giving  two  moderate  strokes,  the  cloth  will  be  perfectly  even. 
Clean  white  paper  must  be  put  on  the  cloth  roller,  as  fast  as  the 
fabric  is  wound  on ;  because  this  texture  having  a  thick  warp  and 
weft  might  become  watered  by  the  vibration  given  to  that  roller  by 
the  stroke  of  the  reed.*  Gros  de  Naples  is  made  with  double  and 
treble  threads  in  the  warp,  and  with  4  threads  in  the  dent  of  the 
reed.  The  weft  is  composed  of  3  or  4  ends  put  together,  or  accord- 
ing to  the  thickness  of  the  cord  wanted  in  the  fabric :  for  fine  gros 
de  Naples,  there  are  of  course,  fewer  ends  used  in  the  weft,  but  4 
ends  is  the  number  generally  employed.  In  weaving  gros  de  Na- 
ples of  inferior  quality,  one  stroke  of  the  reed,  only,  is  given  to  each 
thread  of  weft:  but  when  the  quality  is  to  be  superior,  two  strokes 
are  indispensable,  in  hand  looms.  Since  the  introduction  of  the 
new  mechanism,  invented  by  C.  G.  Gilroy  (see  Section  Twelfth)  to 
the  power  loom,  in  combination  with  Jacquard  machinery,  not  only 
these  fabrics,  but  all  fabrics,  of  silk,  or  of  other  materials,  generally, 
can  be  manufactured  with  the  greatest  facihty  and  profit.  These 
improved  looms  have  received  the  approbation  of  the  most  skillful 
manufacturers  of  England,  Ireland,  Scotland,  France,  Belgium  and 
Prussia.     (See  testimonials  at  the  end  of  Section  Twelfth.) 

THICK  SILK  CLOTH. 

Thick  silk  cloth  is  a  fabric  made  with  4  threads,  double  or  treble, 
in  the  dent  of  the  reed,  according  to  the  quality;  and  it  is  generally 
manufactured  in  a  loom  with  8  or  10  leaves  of  headles,  half  of 
which  are  raised  and  depressed  alternately.  The  reason  for  using 
so  many  headles  on  plain  texture,  is  to  prevent  the  warp  from  being 
crowded  in  the  headles.  The  warp  is  not  kept  tight  in  the  loom, 
particularly  when  it  is  wanted  to  cover  well.  The  pace  weights 
which  govern  the  tightness  of  the  warp,  must  be  moveable,  and 
there  should  be  one  weight  on  each  side  of  the  beam  or  roller,  so  as 
to  strain  equally.     There  must  be  a  whip  roller,  turning  on  gud- 

*  We  have  laboured  15  years,  in  France  and  Great  Britain,  to  produce  as 
perfect  silk  and  other  goods,  plain,  tweeled  and  figured,  in  the  power  loom, 
as  could  be  effected  by  the  most  skillful  weaver,  by  hand ;  and  how  Avell  we 
have  succeeded,  our  friends  will  be  better  able  to  judge  after  reading  the 
proofs  set  before  them  in  next  section. 


406  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

geons  or  journals,  placed  at  a  proper  height  to  suit  the  headles ;  and 
over  this  roller  the  rope  must  be  passed  (see  Figs.  219  and  220 ;) 
which  roller  will  loU  with  the  silk  as  fast  as  the  cloth  is  taken  up 
on  the  cloth  roller  and  prevent  the  evil  effects  which  would  be  con- 
tinually caused  by  the  decreasing  diameter  of  the  warp  beam. 

It  requires  a  very  skillful  weaver  to  make  a  good  silk  fabric,  and 
even  in  France  the  manufacturer  is  often  at  a  loss  for  competent 
workmen  ;  some  who  have  worked  at  this  business  for  30  or  40 
years,  not  having  paid  sufficient  attention  have  not  become  good 
weavers ;  while  others  have  obtained  ten  times  the  amount  of 
knowledge  in  one-fifth  of  the  time. 

The  weft  thread  repeats  4  times  in  the  middle  of  the  selvage  (in 
this  kind  of  texture)  and  only  twice  in  the  edges :  the  selvages 
work  in  opposition  to  each  other,  that  is  to  say,  when  one  selvage 
is  opened  on  the  right  the  other  is  closed  on  the  left,  and  vice  versa. 
This  prevents  the  weft  thread  from  following  the  shuttle  back  again. 
A  piece  of  silk  goods  is  never  considered  well  woven  unless  the  sel- 
vage is  perfect  in  every  respect,  and  entirely  free  from  hills  and  hol- 
lows on  the  outer  edge. 

SATIN. 

Satin  is  made  of  different  widths,  from  f  ths  to  f  ths  of  an  aune 
(44  inches,  French)  and  of  various  lengths  of  web ;  and  has  from 
four  threads  to  ten  threads  per  dent  in  the  reed.  When  only  four 
threads  are  entered  per  dent,  only  five  leaves  of  headles  are  used  ; 
which  headles  are  made  of  raw  silk. 

This  kind  of  fabric  is  dyed  after  it  is  woven,  and  is  used  only  for 
making  hats  and  artificial  Howers.  Black  satin  is  generalh'  made 
with  a  double  warp,  when  intended  for  making  the  crowns  of  hats, 
caps.  (fcc.  The  sleeking  tool  is  used  for  all  satins,  except  those  of 
4  threads  per  dent  of  the  reed  :  to  these  a  soft  brush  is  applied  in- 
stead. Three  or  four  dents  at  the  edges  of  the  cloth  are  gros  de 
Tour  (same  as  selvages  of  gros  de  ]N'aples.)  Sometimes  the  selvages 
to  satin  fabrics  are  zig-zag  in  the  middle  and  the  rest  gros  de  Tour. 

In  weaving  a  superior  satin,  the  warp  must  not  be  too  tight ;  and 
it  must  be  worked  vnih  an  open  stroke,  so  that  the  weft  may  be 
perfectly  tight  and  straight.  The  warp  must  be  well  picked  before 
being  put  into  the  loom,  by  a  Lyons  silk  picker  ;  or  else  it  will  be 
impossible  to  make  a  fine  satin.*  For  these  kinds  of  textures,  the 
headles  should  be  16  inches  in  depth. 

*  A  Lyons  silk  warp  picker,  or  cleaner,  costs  1600  francs ;  and  may  be 
procured  on  application  to  M.  Dioudonnal,  No.  12,  Rue  Sl  Maur,  Paris. 


FANCY    WEAVING. 

HEADLE-MAKING  MACHINE, 


407 


John  Blackniar,  of  Brooklyn,  county  of  Windham,  Conn.,  ob- 
tained a  patent  for  a  machine  for  making  headles,  bearing  date  Oc- 
tober 20th,  1836  ;  a  representation  of  which  machine  is  given  at 
Fig.  192. 


Fiff.  192. 


The  patentee  observes,  that '''  this  macliine  may  be  constructed  in 
all  essential  respects  like  those  now  in  common  use,  excepting  the 
application  of  that  principle  which  makes  a  part  of  the  machine  a 


408  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

bench  susceptible  of  a  rotary  or  revolving  motion."  This  is  effected 
in  the  following  manner : — 

A,  Fig.  192,  represents  the  bottom  of  the  machine  or  bench ; 
B  B,  side  posts,  carrying  the  shaft  D,  having  suitable  gudgeons  C  C, 
at  its  ends  :  these  gudgeons  C  C,  pass  through  the  end  pieces  E  E, 
and  these  end  pieces  are  made  fast  on  the  gudgeons  C  C  ;  F  F,  side 
pieces  of  the  frame  on  which  the  headles  are  constructed  ;  J  J,  brace 
to  hold  the  shaft  D,  and  the  side  pieces  in  their  proper  places  to  keep 
them  from  sagging ;  G  G,  slide-stands,  each  carrying  a  small  pulley 
over  which  the  muddling  twine  or  binder  H  H,  passes  :  the  shde- 
stands  G  G,  may  be  shifted  by  the  operator  to  any  position  best 
suited  to  facilitate  the  work ;  I,  spiral  spring,  for  the  purpose  of 
holding  the  shaft  D,  in  any  desired  position. 

Mr.  Blackmar  claims  as  of  his  invention  the  revolving  principle 
of  the  headle  frame  ;  whether  constructed  in  the  way  described  or 
in  an}^  other  way.  It  is  curious  that  a  patent  should  have  been 
granted  for  a  revolving  headle-frame  so  late  as  the  year  1836,  when 
it  has  been  well  known,  and,  in  fact,  the  only  machine  used  for 
making  headles  in  Lyons,  Paris,  Rouen,  and  many  otlier  manufac- 
turing places  in  France  these  30  years  past,  and  has  been  of  late 
introduced  (from  France)  into  Spitalfields.  It  cannot,  therefore,  be 
the  subject  of  a  valid  patent  in  the  United  States  of  America  ;  yet 
Mr.  B.  possibly  may  have  had  no  knowledge  of  its  existence  else- 
where previous  to  the  date  of  his  patent. 

A  patent  has  been  secured  in  America,  for  a  peculiar  method  of 
forming  the  eyes  of  headles,  which  consists  of  a  double  knot,  one 


on  each  side  of  the  eye,  as  represented  in  Fig.  192^.  The  side  A, 
is  perfectly  straight,  whilst  two  single  knots  are  formed  on  the  side 
B,  each  of  which  encloses  the  side  A,  when  drawn  tight,  the  eye 
being  formed  between  the  two  knots,  so  that  in  the  up  and  down 
motion  of  the  headles,  the  warp  threads  are  pressed  against  the 
knots,  which  being  hard  tied,  are  not  so  likely  to  cut  the  eye  as  if 
they  pressed  against  a  single  loop  of  the  headles.  C  D,  are  the 
headle  shafts.  This  improvement,  we  think,  is  a  valuable  one, 
and  well  worthy  the  attention  of  cotton  manufacturers,  particularly 
those  of  them  more  immediately  engaged  in  making  fine  goods. 
As  these  headles  are  generally  made  of  cotton  yarn,  they  would 


FANCY   WEAVING.  409 

soon  wear  out  unless  protected  by  a  suitable  varnish  being  rubbed 
upon  them.  We  shall  lay  before  the  reader  two  methods  of  doing 
this ;  for  the  first  of  which  we  are  indebted  to  Mr.  James  Mont- 
gomery, superintendent  of  the  York  factories,  Saco,  Maine.  Mr. 
M's  varnish  is  made  of  the  following  ingredients : — 
1  Gallon  Linseed  Oil,  ^  Lib.  Umber, 

1  Lib.  Litharge,  ^  do.    Gum  Shellac, 

1    do.  Red  Lead,  ^  do.    Sugar  of  Lead. 

All  these,  except  the  shellac,  are  first  well  boiled  over  a  moderate 
fire,  until  the  strength  is  out  of  the  lead  ;  the  shellac  is  then  added, 
but  only  a  little  at  a  time,  while  the  whole  is  boihng,  and  it  requires 
to  be  well  stirred  all  the  time.  When  the  shellac  is  entirely  dis- 
solved, the  whole  is  then  cooled  down  to  blood  heat,  then  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  the  spirit  of  turpentine  is  added,  to  make  it  fit  for  use. 
Such  articles  as  require  it,  are  to  be  pulverised.  Before  putting  on 
the  varnish,  the  headles  should  be  brushed  down  with  paste  or  size 
from  the  dressing  machine  :  and  after  the  varnish  is  thoroughly  dry 
and  hard,  they  should  be  again  brushed  down  with  tallow,  to 
smooth  them  well  before  they  are  put  into  the  loom.  Headles  pro- 
perly varnished  in  this  manner,  and  perfectly  dried  before  they  are 
used,  will  generally  last  over  one  year. 

This  receipt  of  Mr.  Montgomery's  is,  no  doubt,  a  veiy  good  one 
for  common  headles,  for  weaving  the  coarser  descriptions  of  shirting 
&c.;  indeed,  it  appears  to  be  the  only  kind  of  varnish  used  for 
headles  in  the  United  States  ;  but  for  weaving  fine  goods,  such  as 
muslin,  (fcc,  the  following  receipt  will  be  found  far  superior,  as 
headles  varnished  on  this  plan  will  not  chafe  the  warp  ;  and,  after 
5  or  6  days  working,  on  either  power  or  hand  looms,  will  become 
as  smooth  as  glass. 

Varnish  for  Headles. — 2  gallons  linseed  oil,  boil  slowly  1^ 
hours ;  then  add  32  ounces  gum  shellac,  boil  20  minutes,  then  add 
32  ounces  red  lead,  boil  20  minutes;  then  add  16  ounces  umber, 
boil  20  minutes.  This  done,  take  the  varnish  off  the  fire,  and  add 
2  gallons  spirit  of  turpentine  •  the  varnish  must  not  be  very  hot 
when  the  turpentine  is  added,  to  prevent  it  from  taking  fire.  In 
making  this  varnish,  it  is  to  be  constantly  stirred  ;  and  the  several 
ingredients  of  which  it  is  composed  must  be  added  slowly. 

Note.  In  boiling  the  various  ingredients,  the  manufacturer  may 
use  his  own  judgment  as  to  the  time  when  each  of  them  becomes 
properly  dissolved :  but  we  think  the  foregoing  directions  will  be 
found  pretty  correct. 

Application  of  the  Varnish. — In  applying  this  varnish,  it  must 

52 


410  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

be  mixed  with  fiour  size,  and  three  coats  should  be  given  of  the 
composition  thus  formed.  Make  the  first  coat  of  1  part  varnish 
and  3  parts  flour ;  the  second,  half  varnish  and  half  flour ;  and 
the  third,  3  parts  varnish  and  1  part  flour.  Let  one  coat  be  dry 
before  putting  on  another.  The  headles  should  be  hung  up  in  a 
warm  room  while  the  various  coats  are  drying. 

In  this  receipt  we  have  stated  only  small  quantities  of  the  differ- 
ent ingredients,  but  as  the  proportions  mentioned  are  correct,  they 
may  easily  be  increased  to  any  desirable  extent.  We  have  used 
varnish  of  this  kind  on  the  front  headles  of  damask  looms  for 
weaving  table  cloths,  piano-forte  covers,  furniture  stuffs,  and  other 
descriptions  of  figured  goods,  for  upwards  of  IS  years  ;  and  we  can 
testify  that  it  is  the  best  composition  for  this  purpose  we  have  ever 
known  :  we  can,  therefore,  recommend  it,  with  the  utmost  confi- 
dence, to  manufacturers  of  such  fabrics. 

TEMPLES. 

There  is,  perhaps,  no  implement  about  a  loom  of  greater  impor- 
tance than  the  temple  ;  for  it  is  through  its  instrumentality  that  the 
cloth,  as  it  is  woven,  is  kept  at  its  proper  breadth,  while  the  reed 
beats  up  against  it.  As  we  have  already  shown  tlie  construction  of 
temples  used  on  hand  looms  (see  L  L,  Fig.  6,  page  75,  Section 
First.)  it  now  only  remains  to  show  those  best  adapted  to  power 
looms. 

Numerous  patents  have  been  obtained  in  Great  Britain,  France 
and  America,  within  the  last  few  years,  for  improvements  on  tem- 
ples, so  as  to  render  them  more  applicable  to  power  loom  weaving, 
by  obviating  the  necessity  of  shifting  them  on  the  cloth,  as  is  re- 
quired in  hand  loom  weaving.  The  contrivance  which  has  been 
found  to  answer  this  purpose  best,  particularly  for  stout  textures,  is 
the  "  American  nipper"'  or  "  jaw  temple."* 

Fig.  193,  represents  a  plan  view  of  the  nipper  or  jaw-temple  ; 
Fig.  194,  a  side  or  edge  view ;  and  Fig.  195,  a  detached  part  of 
Fig.  194,  on  an  enlarged  scale. 

One  of  these  nippers  is  to  be  fixed  on  the  breast  beam  of  the 
loom,  at  each  selvage  of  the  cloth,  where  it  is  acted  upon  by  the 
motion  of  the  lay,  which  opens  the  jaws  or  chaps  of  the  nippers 

*  The  principle  of  this  temple  appears  to  be  the  same  as  that  of  the  tem- 
ple used  by  E.  K.  Arphaxad,  on  his  great  vertical  weaving  engine,  invented 
many  thousand  years  ago.     (See  Introduction.) 


FANCY    WEAVING. 


411 


every  time  the  cloth  is  struck  up,  and  permits  the  cloth  to  be  shd- 
den  forward  towards  the  cloth  roller. 


FiiT.  193. 


,.,i,;,  ,ipi  ,j  ,|    i  '■  ■  i'"liirili|i "''  -^ :. 


Fig.  195. 


■ 


& 


in':v\"{m..inmffi„'\inm,i'.m 


-h^^^^ 


The  plate  A,  to  which  the  nippers  are  attached,  is  to  be  fixed  to 
the  breast  beam  B  B,  by  means  of  a  screw  bolt  C,  as  show^n  in 
Figs.  193  and  194.  The  long  slot  D,  made  in  the  plate  A,  (Fig. 
193)  is  for  the  purpose  of  adjusting  the  temple  to  suit  different 
widths  of  cloth. 

At  the  extremity  of  the  plate  A,  (Fig.  193,)  a  bar  E,  is  fixed  ; 
which  bar  is  turned-up  at  one  end  (see  Fig.  194)  for  the  purpose  of 
forming  the  upper  chap  F,  of  the  nippers.  The  under  chap  G, 
(Figs.  194  and  195)  is  a  spring-piece,  and  is  pressed  against  the 
chap  F,  by  its  elasticity.  The  inner  surfaces  of  the  chaps  F,  and 
G,  are  guttered  out,  like  a  rasp  or  coarse  file,  to  enable  them  better 
to  hold  fast  the  cloth. 

The  lever  H  H,  (Figs.  193  and  194)  turns  on  the  fulcrum-pin  I ; 
which  pin  is  fixed  in  the  plate  A.  At  the  left  end  of  this  lever  Hh' 
there  is  a  flattened-out  or  broad-piece  J,  (see  Fig.  191.)  and  at  the 
right  end  a  knife-edged  w^edge-piece  K. 

The  lower  part  of  the  front  of  the  lay  is  partially  represented  at 
L  L,  which,  when  it  moves  towards  the  breast  beam  to  strike  up  the 
cloth,  comes  in  contact  with  the  end  J,  of  the  lever  HH,  thereby 
causing  the  wedge-piece  K,  at  the  other  end,  (to  the  right.)  to  be 
forced  in  between  the  chaps  F,  and  G  ;  by  which  means,  the  cloth 
is  released  at  the  mo7nent  the  lay  isfidl  vp  against  it;  but  wlien- 
ever  the  lay  retires,  the  wedge-piece  K,  slips  back  out  of  the  chaps 
F,  and  G,  and  the  cloth  is  again  grasped  by  the  temple. 

It  will  now  be  perceived  that  the  cloth  wiU  be  released  every 


412  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

time  the  reed  comes  in  contact  with  it,  and  gasped  again  by  the 
chaps  or  jaws  F,  and  G,  the  instant  that  the  reed  begins  to  retire 
from  it :  thus  enabhng  the  temple  to  hold  out  the  cloth  to  the  same 
width  at  which  the  reed  held  it. 

This  kind  of  temple  should  be  so  fixed  on  the  breast  beam  as  to 
enable  it  to  take  hold  of  the  selvage  within  half  an  inch  of  the 
reed,  when  the  reed  is  full  up  against  the  chih.  For  very  stout 
goods,  the  chaps  or  jaws  should,  if  possible,  be  brought  within  fths 
of  an  inch  of  the  reed  ;  by  which  means  the  cloth  will  be  kept  bet- 
ter extended.  This  temple  is  certainly  a  valuable  acquisition  in 
power  loom  weaving,  and  well  worthy  the  attention  of  manufactu- 
rers generally. 

The  rotary  temple,  which  is  also  an  American  invention,  was 
made  the  subject  of  a  patent  in  the  United  States,  by  Mr.  Ira  Dra- 
per, of  Weston.  Mass.,  January  7th,  1S16  :  and  the  same  gentleman 
obtained  a  second  patent,  for  improvements  thereon,  April  1st, 
1829.  We  shall  at  present  turn  our  attention  to  Mr.  Draper's  im- 
proved temple. 

Mr.  Draper  remarks,  that,  as  many  defects  were  discovered  by 
subsequent  experience  in  the  working  of  his  temple,  patented  in 
1816,  they  have  given  rise  to  the  following  improvements  in  its 
construction. 

The  wheel  with  oblique  teeth,  similar  to  the  first  plan,  revolving 
on  a  centre  pivot  (like  that  marked  H,  Fig.  196)  is  riveted  or 
screwed  into  an  iron  plate  (hke  that  marked  I,  Fig.  196  :)  this  plate 
has  two  grooves  made  in  it,  to  receive  two  screws,  to  confine  the 
plate  down  (see  Figs.  196,  197  and  199.)  The  grooves  are  calcu- 
lated to  admit  of  changing  the  position  of  the  temples,  to  suit  the 
width  of  the  cloth  to  be  woven,  similar  to  the  method  patented  in 
1816.*  A  metal  ring  surrounds  the  wheel  and  teeth,  or  the  wheel 
may  be  altogether  of  metal,  and  has  a  bar  across  the  upper  edge, 
with  a  hole  in  its  centre  having  a  screw  cut  in  it,  by  which  it  is 
screwed  down  on  the  centre  pivot.  A  short  angular  groove  in  the 
upper  edge  of  the  ring  receives  the  cloth,  and  guides  it  exactly  at 
the  required  distance.  A  notch  being  filed  or  cut  in  the  edge  of 
the  ring  over  which  the  cloth  passes,  causes  the  teeth  to  leave  the 
cloth  freely.  For  the  greater  convenience  of  adjusting  the  temples, 
without  unscrewinsr  the  screws  above  referred  to.  a  thumb  screw  is 


*  As  the  principle  of  Mr.  Draper's  temple  is  the  same  as  that  of  the  temple 
represented  in  Figs.  196,  197,  198  and  199,  we  think  it  unnecessary  to  give 
drawings  of  it  here. 


FANCY   WEAVING.  413 

inserted  in  a  lip  projecting  from  the  edge  of  the  ring  :  the  lower  end 
of  this  thumb  screw  has  a  groove  turned  in  it,  which  plays  in  a 
groove  in  the  bottom  plate ;  and,  by  turning  the  thumb  screw,  the 
rim  on  the  lower  end  binds  on  the  under  side  of  the  bottom  plate 
and  confines  the  ring. 

Mr.  Draper  observes,  that  one  great  difliculty  in  the  application 
of  the  temples  first  patented  by  him,  was  their  being  screwed  firm 
on  the  breast  beam  and  having  -no  elasticity  ;  the  consequence 
was,  every  time  the  reed  struck  the  weft,  the  cloth  Avould  give  way 
and  recoil^  giving  the  toothed  wheel  a  suddeti  rotative  motion,  in- 
creasing the  wear  of  the  temples  ten  fold  and  enlarging  the 
holes  made  by  the  teeth  in  the  cloth.  In  addition  to  which,  if  the 
shuttle,  by  any  accident,  should  not  reach  its  destination  in  the  lay- 
box,  but  should  stop  a  little  short,  it  would  be  caught  between  the 
reed  and  temples,  and  consequently  break  either  the  reed  or  the 
shuttle. 

To  remedy  these  objections,  a  spring  is  substituted  long  enough 
to  receive  the  cloth.  This  spring  is  screwed  by  its  centre  to  a  suit- 
able stand,  inside  of  the  breast  beam,  and  is  long  enough  to  suit 
the  width  of  the  cloth,  and  is  placed  as  near  the  reed  as  safety  will 
permit,  and  the  temples  being  screwed  on  each  end  of  this  spring 
gives  them  an  opportunity  of  moving  laterally  with  the  cloth,  and 
obviates  the  sudden  rotary  motion. 

The  improvements  claimed  by  Mr.  Draper  are,  first,  the  ring 
with  the  cross-bar  v;hich  confines  the  toothed  wheel ;  second,  the 
centre  pivot  on  which  the  toothed  wheel  turns  ;  and,  third,  the 
spring  on  which  the  temples  are  screwed,  instead  of  being 
screwed  to  the  breast  beam. 

WilUam  Craig,  of  Manchester,  and  John  Cochran,  of  Stockport, 
have  lately  obtained  patents  for  improvements  on  the  rotary  tem- 
ple, in  England,  Ireland,  Scotland,  and  France ;  their  American 
patent  bears  date  November  25th,  1841. 

This  improved  temple  is  a  remarkably  neat  piece  of  mechan- 
ism, easily  applied  to  a  loom,  and  not  liable  to  get  out  of  order, 
and  is  certainly  well  calculated  for  cotton  textures  generally. 

Fig.  196,  is  a  top  view  of  the  temple  ;  Fig.  197,  a  bottom 
view,  as  seen  from  underneath ;  Fig.  198,  an  end  view,  as  seen 
from  the  side  of  the  loom ;  and  Fig.  199,  an  edge  view,  as  seen 
when  standing  at  the  back  of  the  loom,  looking  towards  the  breast 
beam  on  the  left  side.  The  temple  represented  in  the  Figs,  is  the 
right  hand  one,  a  similar  one  being  required  at  the  left. 


414 


THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 


Fig.  193. 
End  View. 


L^"^^"^^ 


A.  Fig.  196,  Breast  beam,  on  Avhich 
the  temple  frame  is  screwed,  by 
two  screws,  as  shown  in  the  Fig. 

B.  Frame  which  carries  the  temple 
apparatus. 

C.  Slotted  piece  of  sheet  iron,  with 
turned-up  edges  J  J,  for  the  purpose 
of  holding  the  plate  I,  which  carries 
the  temple. 

DD.  Two  small  bolts  to  screw  down 
the  plate  C,  on  the  frame  B. 

E.  Regulating  screw,  for  setting  the 
temple  to  suit  different  widths  of 
cloth,  and  to  keep  it  firm  in  its  place 
when  adjusted. 


F.  Jam-nut,  for  holding  the  regulating 
screw  E,  in  iti?  proper  place. 

G,  Rotary  rim  or  temple,  having  teeth 
round  its  circumference. 

H,  Fulcrum  or  stud  pin  on  which  the 
rim  G.  revolves. 

I,  Plate  on  which  the  temple  is  fixed 
and  into  which  the  fulcrum  or  stud- 
pin  H,  is  screwed,  to  hold  the  tem- 
ple G,  down,  but  permitting  it  to 
rotate  freely. 

J  J,  Turned-up  edges  of  the  slotted 
piece  C,  for  the  purpose  of  holding 
the  plate  I,  on  which  the  temple  G, 
is  fixed. 


FANCY   WEAVING. 


415 


K,  Figs.  197  and  198,  Small  spring 
screwed  or  riveted  on  the  under 
side  of  the  temple,  its  end  being 
rounded  and  bent  inward,  passing 
through  a  small  slot  M,  cut  in  the 
plate  C,  as  shown  in  Fig.  197.  The 
rounded  point  of  the  spring  K,  is 
made  to  drop  into  a  small  notch  L, 
made  in  the  back  or  under  side  of 
the  plate  I,  nearly  opposite  the  cen- 
tre of  the  rim  or  temple  G,  and  is 
for  the  purpose  of  keeping  the  tem- 
ple in  its  proper  place  longitudinal- 
ly :  otherwise,  the  plate  I,  on  which 
the  temple  is  fixed,  might,  in  the 
working  of  the  loom,  get  jarred  out 
from  between  the  turned-up  edges 
of  the  slotted  piece  C. 


L,  Notch  made  on  the  outer  side  of 
the  plate  I. 

M,  Slot  cut  in  the  plate  C,  to  admit 
the  end  of  the  spring  K. 

N,  Point  of  the  temple  at  which  the 
cloth  escapes  during  the  operation 
of  weaving. 

O,  Point  at  which  the  cloth  enters. 

P,  Small  projection  on  the  exterior  of 
the  wheel  box  (see  Figs.  196  and 
197.)  The  selvage  of  the  cloth  is 
lapped  over  this  projection,  as  it 
passes  from  the  reed  through  the 
opening  O,  to  the  points  or  teeth  of 
the  temple  G,  and  from  thence 
through  the  opening  N,  to,  and 
over  the  breast  beam  to  the  cloth 
roller,  as  usual. 


There  are  two  small  square  pieces  of  iron  fitted  in  the  slot  of  the 
frame  B,  having  each  a  hole  made  in  it  to  receive  one  of  the  bolts 
D  :  these  square  pieces  of  iron  serve  to  strengthen  the  sides  of  the 
frame  B,  as  well  as  to  screw  the  slotted  plate  C,  against ;  and  the 
pieces  are  not  quite  so  deep  as  the  frame  B,  into  which  they  are  in- 
serted, so  that  the  bolts  D  D,  may  bind  down  the  slotted  plate  C, 
firmly  against  the  two  sides  of  the  frame  B,  without  bending  the 
slotted  plate  C.  The  bolts  DD,  will  draw  the  slotted  plate  C, 
gently  against  the  little  square  pieces,  and  thus  the  whole  will  be 
secured  firmly  together. 

The  temples  should  be  set  from  the  face  of  the  cloth  about  ^ 
inch,  and  in  the  working  of  the  loom,  should  the  shuttle  not  reach 
its  destination  in  the  shuttle-box,  but  come  in  contact  with  the 
outer  edge  of  the  temple-box,  the  reed  will  drive  or  slide  the 
temple-box  wkh  its  plate  I,  back  over  the  slotted  plate  C,  the  spring- 
catch  K,  which  holds  the  plate  I,  being  slid  out  of  the  notch  in  the 
underside  of  the  plate  I,  by  the  sudden  concussion  of  the  shuttle 
against  the  outer  edge  of  the  temple,  thereby  saving  the  shuttle  and 
reed  froon  injury.  Whenever  this  accident  occurs,  the  temple 
plate  I,  must  be  pressed  forward  into  its  place  by  the  weaver :  but 
of  course,  this  accident  can  only  happen  when  the  protector  fails  to 
operate. 

In  power  loom  weaving,  when  the  shuttle  fails  to  enter  the  box 
and  stops  in  the  shed,  the  loom  should  protect  far  enough  back 
from  the  cloth :  otherwise  the  reed  would  come  in  contact  with  the 
shuttle,  force  it  forward  against  the  fell  of  the  cloth,  and,  perhaps, 
break  300  or  400  threads  of  warp :  the  warp  would  also  be  drawn 
from  the  yarn  beam  a  length  equal  to  the  breadth  of  the  shuttle, 


416  THE    ART    OP   WEAVING. 

which  would  cause  much  delay,  independent  of  the  breaking  of  the 
threads. 

The  principal  feature  of  novelty  in  this  modification  of  the  rota- 
ry temple  is  the  projection  P,  on  the  exterior  of  the  temple  box  (as 
shown  in  Figs.  196  and  197,)  over  which  the  selvage  of  the  cloth  is 
lapped,  as  it  passes  from  the  reed  through  the  opening  O,  to  the 
points  of  the  rotary  rim  or  temple  G,  and  from  thence  through  the 
opening  N,  as  before  stated,  this  projection  turning  the  selvage 
downwards,  at  the  proper  angle,  to  be  received  on  the  points  or  teeth 
of  the  rotary  rim  or  temple  G  ;  and  by  these  means,  the  strain  of 
the  cloth  is  partly  taken  from  the  temple,  the  friction  thus  caused 
preventing  the  teeth  from  drawing  asunder  the  threads  of  the  sel- 
vage, as  is  the  case  with  the  rotary  temples  used  heretofore. 

The  teeth  of  the  temple  are  inserted  (as  in  other  rotary  temples) 
in  the  rim  G,  at  an  angle  best  calculated  to  hold  down  the  selvage 
of  the  cloth,  and  prevent  it  escaping  from  them ;  and,  as  nearly  all 
the  strain  comes  on  the  projection  P,  the  cloth  is  not  so  likely  to 
escape  from  the  teeth,  nor  yet  to  be  torn  or  injured  by  them,  as  in 
rotary  temples  without  such  a  projection. 

The  other  parts  of  Messrs.  Craig  and  Cochran's  temple,  shown  in 
the  Figs.,  do  not  differ  from  those  of  Mr.  Draper's,  except  in  the 
neatness  of  construction. 

FORK  AND  GRID  MOTION. 

This  is  a  motion  for  throwing  the  loom  out  of  gear  when  the 
weft  thread  breaks  or  becomes  exhausted  in  the  shuttle.  No  less 
than  43  patents  have  been  obtained,  up  to  the  year  1S44,  by  differ- 
ent individuals  in  Europe  and  America,  who  thought  they  had  suc- 
ceeded in  hitting  upon  something  which  would  effect  this  object 
about  as  perfectly  as  the  nature  of  the  case  would  allow  :  but,  with 
only  two  exceptions,  all  these  schemes,  however  ingenious,  have 
proved  unsuccessful,  and,  in  most  instances,  have  brought  poverty 
and  ruin  upon  their  unfortunate  authors  ;  a  circumstance,  alas !  of 
every  day  occurrence  with  inventors. 

The  contrivance  which  we  shall  at  present  consider  has  been 
found  to  answer  well,  on  looms  for  weaving  heavy  goods ;  and 
from  tlie  annexed  index  of  its  various  parts,  aided  by  the  descrip- 
tion, we  think  the  reader  will  be  able  to  understand  the  nature  of 
its  operation.* 

*  This  motion  originated  with  us,  in  the  beginning  of  the  year  1831,  at  which 
period  we  applied  it  to  a  power-loom  for  weaving  Marseilles  quilts;  and  the  pa 
tents  obtained  in  England  by  Mr.  Bullough  and  Mr.  Ramsbottom,  for  modi- 


FANCY    WEAVING. 


417 


Fig.  200,  represents  a  back  elevation  of  a  common  power  loom, 
having  the  fork  and  grid  mechanism  attached  thereto ;  Fig.  201,  a 
side  elevation,  in  section,  of  so  much  of  the  loom  as  will  enable  us 
to  show  the  application  of  the  motion  ;  and  Fig.  202,  a  plan  view 
of  part  of  the  apparatus  detached  from  the  loom. 

Fig.  200. 


A  A,  Cam  shaft. 

B,  Arm  fixed  upon  the  cam  shaft  A  A. 

C,  Stud-pin  bolted  in  the  arm  B.  for 
raising  the  lever  D. 

D,  Lever  fixed  on  the  shaft  or  rod  F ; 
its  position,  as  seen  from  the  back 


of  the  loom,  is  shown  in  Fig.  200, 
and  a  side  view  is  given  in  Fig.  201. 
E,  Catch  lever,  also  fixed  on  the  shaft 
or  rod  F,  as  shown  in  Fig.  200,  a 
side  view  of  it  may  be  seen  in  Fig. 
201. 


fications  of  it,  of  course,  belong  to  us.  We  made  still  further  improvements 
on  the  motion  in  the  years  1836  and  1S38,  for  which  we  obtained  patents  in 
November,  1839,  in  the  name  of  Moses  Poole,  of  the  Patent  Office,  4  Lin- 
coln's Inn,  Old  Square,  London.  We  also  secured  patents  for  the  same  in- 
vention, in  France  and  Belgium,  through  Henry  Truffaut,  Esq.,  patent  agent. 
As  we  shall  have  occasion  to  enter  more  fully  into  the  investigation  of  the  re- 
spective merits  of  different  motions  for  stopping  the  loom  when  the  weft 
thread  breaks  or  becomes  exhausted  in  the  shuttle,  in  the  next  section,  we  will 
therefore,  offer  no  further  remarks  upon  the  subject  here. 


53 


418 


THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 


F,  Shaft  or  rod  fixed  underneath  the 
breast  beam,  or  rather  a  little  inside 
of  it,  (towards  the  lay;)  it  reaches 
from  side  to  side  of  the  loom,  and 
rests  on  the  frame  in  suitable  bear- 
ings. 

G,  Lever  working  on  the  stud-pin  O. 
(See  Fig.  200.)  This  stud-pin  is 
secured  by  a  screw  nut  P,  in  the 
outer  part  of  the  slotted  piece  N. 

h,  Round  pin  made  to  fit  in  the  socket 
of  the  lever  G,  as  shown  in  Fig. 
202,  and  forms  the  fulcrum  of  the 
fork,  the  fork  working  freely  upon 
it :  this  pin  h,  may  be  secured  at 
any  required  distance  to  suit  the 
proper  working  position  of  the  fork 
I.  by  means  of  the  set  screw  ?■. 

I,  The  fork  which  plays  against  the 
weft  thread  every  time  the  lay  ap- 
proaches the  breast  beam  :  this  fork, 
when  it  meets  with  the  weft  thread, 
presses  it  against  a  i'ew  coarse  dents 
in  the  outer  edge  of  the  reed,  near 
the  selvage  of  the  cloth,  the  under 
extremities  of  the  prongs  of  the 
fork  entering  the  dents  below;  but 
the  resistance  of  the  weft  thread  will 
prevent  the  tbrk  passing  through 
to  its  full  distance,  and  consequently 
the  other  end  of  the  fork,  with  the 
hook  or  catch  upon  it,  will  be  eleva- 
ted, allowing  the  arm  B.  with  its 
stud-pin  C,  to  give  free  motion  to 
the  lever  E,  on  the  rod  F.  in  case 
the  weft  thread  is  not  broken  or  has 
bfcome  expended  on  the  bobbin. 

J,  (Fig.  201.)  Lay  sword,  showing  the 
lay  and  upper  rail  L,  to  receive  the 
reed. 

K,  The  race  board. 

L,  Upper  rail  to  receive  the  reed,  in 
the  usual  way. 

M,  The  belt-shipper  or  spring-rod,  for 
tlirowing  the  loom  in  or  out  of  gear ; 
it  is  precisely  the  same  as  those 
used  in  common  power  looms. 

N,  (Fig.  202.)  Stand,  bolted  at  one 
side  of  the  loom,  outside  the  end  of 
the  breast  beam,  as  shown  in  Fig. 
200  ;  in  this  stand  there  is  a  slot 
made  like  that  marked  N,  in  Fig. 
202.  into  which  the  shipper  M,  is  in- 
serted in  the  usual  way. 

O,  Stud-pin  Ibrming  the  axis  of  the 


lever  G,  which  lever  should  vibrate 
freely  thereon :  the  stud-pin  O,  is 
bolted  firmly  in  the  slotted  piece  N, 
by  means  of  the  screw  nut  P,  (see 
Fig.  200 ;)  the  place  where  it  is  to 
be  inserted  is  indicated  by  a  small 
round  hole  in  Fig.  202. 

P,  Screw-nut  to  secure  the  stud-pin  O, 
firmly  in  the  extreme  end  of  the 
slotted  stand  N,  as  shown  in  Fig. 
200. 

Q,,  (Fig.  200,)  Bolt  which  secures  the 
slotted  piece  N,  to  the  frame  of  the 
loom. 

r,  Set-screw  for  securing  the  round 
pin  Avhich  carries  the  grid  I,  and 
by  which  set-screw  its  distance 
from  the  reed  is  regulated. 

S,  (Fig.  201,)  Prongs  of  the  fork  L 

T,  Fulcrum  of  the  fork  I,  which  ful- 
crum is  made  upon  the  bent  end  of 
the  round  pin  h.  as  shown  in  Fig. 
202 ;  a  portion  of  this  pin  h,  is  left 
out  in  Fig.  201,  in  order  to  show  the 
form  of  the  upper  end  of  the  lever 
E,  (which  may  be  called  the  ham- 
mer,) and  also  the  shape  of  the 
hook  or  catch  end  of  the  fork  ;  the 
position,  however,  of  the  lulcrum  of 
the  fork  I,  (shown  in  Fig.  202.)  is 
correctly  represented  at  T,  Fig.  201 ; 
from  which  explanation,  no  difficul- 
ty can  possibly  arise  to  those  loom- 
makers  and  manufacturers  who  may 
wish  to  construct  the  motion. 

U,  Breast  beam,  which  may  be  made 
of  either  wood  or  cast-iron. 

V,  (Fig.  200.)  Framing  of  one  side  of 
the  loom,  which  is  secured  to  the 
floor  by  means  of  a  suitable  bolt 
passed  into  the  flange  or  projec- 
tion W. 

W,  Flange  or  projection  by  which  the 
loom  is  screwed  to  the  floor;  there 
are  four  such  flanges  to  a  common 
loom,  one  to  each  post. 

X,  (Fig.  201.)  Post  of  the  loom  in  sec- 
tion :  the  other  parts  in  this  Fig., 
being  also  in  section,  the  ordinary 
side-framing  is  not  shown  in  con- 
nexion Avith  the  post  X ;  and,  be- 
sides, we  Avish  to  avoid  every  thing 
which  approximates  in  the  least  to- 
wards mystification. 


The  fork  I,  is  made  of  wrought  iron  :  it  resembles  a  common  eat- 
ing fork  at  one  end.  and  is  bent  as  shown  at  S,  Fig.  201  ;  the  other 
end,  or  that  nearest  the  breast  beam,  is  made  flat  and  formed  into 


FANCY    WEAVING. 


419 


a  hook,  as  represented  in  the  Fig.,  for  the  purpose  of  catching  the 
hook  or  shoulder  of  the  lever  E.  The  flat  end  is  made  a  little  heav- 
ier tlian  the  fork  end  which  plays  into  the  reed,  so  that  it  may  al- 
ways fall  on  the  hammer  of  the  lever  E,  unless  raised  by  the  action 
of  the  weft  thread,  or  rather  the  action  of  the  fork  coming  in  con- 
tact with  the  weft  thread  and  carrying  it  against  the  reed,  thus 
causing  the  hook  end  of  the  fork  I,  during  the  forward  motion  of 
the  lay,  to  be  raised  out  of  the  jog  in  the  upper  end  of  the  lever  E, 
so  that  this  lever  will  always  miss  the  hook  or  catch  and  pass  on 
without  interruption,  until  the  weft  thread  is  broken  or  becomes  ex- 
hausted in  the  shuttle. 

The  levers  E,  and  D,  are  fixed  firmly,  by  set  screws,  on  the  shaft 
or  rod  F ;  and  motion  is  communicated  to  them  from  the  cam  shaft 
A  A,  (see  Figs.  200  and  201.)  by  means  of  the  slotted  arm  B,  and 
stud-pin  C,  which  pin  may  be  regulated  (up  or  down)  in  the  slot  of 
the  arm  B,  (see  Fig.  201,)  according  to  the  distance  that  is  neces- 
sary to  move  the  hammer  on  the  upper  end  of  the  lever  E,  forward, 


420 


THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 


for  the  purpose  of  unshipping  the  belt  from  the  tight  pulley  on  to 
the  loose  one. 

Now,  it  will  be  evident,  that  so  long  as  the  weft  thread  continues 
unbroken,  the  loom  will  continue  in  operation ;  but  should  it  break, 
or  cease  to  be  delivered,  the  fork  will  meet  with  no  resistance,  and 
will  consequently  pass  through  the  reed  to  the  full  distance  to  which 
it  is  regulated,  thus  allowing  the  bent  nib  or  hook  at  its  other  end, 
near  the  breast  beam,  to  fall  on  the  hammer  at  the  upper  end  of  the 
lever  E,  first  dropping  on  the  inclined  back  projection  of  the  ham- 
mer, but  during  the  forward  motion  of  the  lay,  the  nib  or  hook  will 
slip  into  the  jog  or  notch,  as  represented  in  Fig.  201.  The  stud  C, 
will  now  act  on  the  lever  D,  and,  consequently  the  lever  E,  by 
means  of  the  jogged  hammer  at  its  upper  end,  will  carry  the  fork  I, 
with  the  lever  G,  and  the  round  pin  h,  which  forms  the  fulcrum  of 
the  fork,  forward,  until  the  side  or  edge  of  the  lever  G,  comes  in 
contact  Avith  the  belt-shipper  M,  and  drives  it  out  of  the  jog  or  notch 
N,  as  represented  in  Fig.  202. 


There  is  a  small  plate,  with  three  or  four  wires  fixed  in  it,  in  the 
form  of  a  coarse  reed,  for  the  points  of  the  grid  (at  K.)  to  work 
through,  as  the  reed  could  not  stand  the  wear  and  tear  of  continual 
use  ;  besides,  the  prongs  of  the  fork  could  not  be  made  to  work  with 
precision  through  the  reed,  unless  it  were  very  coarse. 

For  coarse  cotton  goods,  the  fork  need  only  have  three  prongs ; 
but  for  fine  goods,  such  as  muslin,  four  prongs  will  enable  it  to  act 
with  greater  certainty.  The  reed  of  the  loom  in  which  this  motion 
is  to  be  applied,  should  be  made  to  extend  beyond  the  selvage  of  the 
cloth  on  that  side  of  the  loom  where  the  fork  is  to  be  placed,  so  that 
the  reed-maker  may  have  room  to  insert  five  or  six  strong  dents  in 
it.  sufficiently  far  from  the  selvage  that  the  fork  may  not  come  in 
contact  with  the  teeth  or  outer  edge  of  the  temjyle.  The  distance 


FANCY    WEAVING.  421 

between  these  dents  should  be  nearly  ,^6  ^^^  of  an  inch,  for  coarse 
fabrics,  but  for  fine  goods  ^tli  of  an  inch  would,  perhaps,  be  better ; 
or,  in  the  latter  case,  the  fork  might  be  made  with  an  additional 
prong  and  the  distance  between  the  dents  remain  as  in  the  former 
instance.  In  applying  this  motion  to  a  loom  where  the  reed  is  not 
made  for  the  purpose,  if  it  he  of  sufficient  length,  a  few  of  the 
dents  may  be  drawn  out,  and  five  or  six  coarse  ones  inserted  ;  but 
should  the  reed  not  be  long  enough  to  admit  of  this,  a  small  addi- 
tional piece  may  be  made  with  coarse  dents,  and  placed  at  the  end 
of  the  large  leed  ;  it  should  be  well  secured,  or  the  prongs  of  the 
fork  would  be  liable  to  strike  against  the  dents,  instead  of  entering 
between  them,  and  thus  cause  much  damage. 

There  is  a  small  piece  of  brass,  of  the  form  of  a  grid,  with 
flanges  at  each  side,  let  into  the  shuttle-race  or  race-board,  and  on  a 
level  with  it ;  this  piece  is  fastened  down  by  four  small  wood 
screws,  two  at  each  side  ;  the  slots  of  this  piece  are  well  smoothed 
out,  and  its  upper  surface  is  polished :  it  has  one  slot  for  each  prong 
of  the  fork  I ;  and  into  these  slots  the  prongs  work  at  each  vibra- 
tion of  the  lay  :  the  slots  are  of  sufficient  depth  to  prevent  the  weft 
thread  from  getting  under  the  points  of  the  prongs,  for  if  this  took 
place,  the  loom  would  be  directly  thrown  out  of  gear,  although  the 
weft  thread  remained  unbroken.  The  depth  of  the  slots  in  the  grid 
piece,  and  the  position  of  the  prongs  of  the  fork  I,  are  shown  in 
Fig.  201  ;  the  dotted  line  below  the  letter  K,  points  out  the  depth 
of  the  slot. 

Should  the  weft  thread  break  or  become  expended,  however,  on 
the  side  of  the  loom  opposite  to  that  on  which  the  motion  is  fixed, 
while  the  shuttle  is  passing  towards  the  motion,  the  loom  will  in- 
stantly be  thrown  out  of  gear  ;  but,  on  the  contrary,  should  the  weft 
break  or  become  expended  during  the  passage  of  the  shuttle  from 
the  motion,  the  loom  will  not  be  thrown  out  of  gear ;  because  the 
arm  B,  with  its  stud  C,  will  not  then  be  in  a  position  to  act  on  the 
lever  D. 

If  it  be  desired  to  stop  the  loom  without  losing  one  pick,  a  suita- 
ble connexion  must  be  formed  with  the  belt-shipper  from  the  other 
side  of  the  loom  for  that  purpose  :  which  any  practical  weaver  may 
effect  without  difficulty.  For  the  generality  of  goods,  however,  the 
motion  at  one  side  of  the  loom,  as  represented  in  Figs.  200,  201 
and  202,  will  answer  the  purpose  well  enough  without  any  addition 
thereto. 

Packing  Machinery. — A  correspondent  in  the  Mechanics'  Mag- 
azine suggests,  that  the  grease  used  for  machinery  about  to  be 


422  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

packed,  should  be  subjected  for  about  an  hour,  to  a  heat  of  230"^ 
Fahr.  in  order  to  evaporate  its  watery  particles  ;  and  that  with  it  be 
mixed  a  good  portion  of  fresh-burned  charcoal,  reduced  to  an  im 
palpable  powder. 

Preservatioji  of  Iron  from  Rust. — A  mastic  or  covering  for  this 
purpose,  proposed  by  M.  Zeni,  and  sanctioned  by  the  Societe  d'  En- 
couragement, is  as  follows  : — Eighty  parts  of  pounded  brick,  passed 
through  a  silk  sieve,  are  mixed  with  20  parts  of  litharge  :  the  whole 
is  then  rubbed  up  by  the  muUer  with  Unseed  oil,  so  as  to  form  a 
thick  paint,  which  may  be  diluted  with  spirits  of  turpentine.  Be- 
fore it  is  applied  the  ii'on  should  be  well  cleaned. 

From  an  experience  of  two  years,  upon  locks  exposed  to  the  air, 
and  watered  daily  with  salt  water,  after  being  covered  with  two 
coats  of  this  mastic,  the  good  effects  of  it  have  been  thorouglily 
proved. — Bull,  d'  Encour. 

Method  of  giving  a  black  and  glossy  coating  to  cast  iron  trin- 
kets, and  other  articles  of  the  sa?}ie  material. — This  composition 
is  simple,  and  offers  the  invaluable  advantage  of  efficaciously  resist- 
ing the  action  of  the  atmosphere,  and  even  of  weak  acids,  so  that 
the  process  may  be  emplo5'ed  for  coating  a  great  variety  of  cast 
utensils  commonly  used  in  our  families.  The  coating  easily  fixes 
itself  on  cast  iron,  and  may  also  be  used  on  hammered  iron,  but 
with  less  certainty  of  success  in  the  latter  case  than  in  the  former. 

Attach  each  of  the  articles  to  be  coated  to  an  iron  wire  bent  above 
into  a  hook,  and  apply  a  thin  coat  of  hnseed  oil ;  the  coat  must  be 
thin,  to  prevent  the  oil  from  running,  forming  asperities  or  knots 
where  it  collects.  Hang  them  eight  or  ten  inches  above  a  wood 
fire,  so  that  they  may  be  completely  enveloped  in  the  smoke.  When 
they  have  been  thus  exposed  to  a  brisk  fire  for  about  an  hour,  lower 
them  so  that  they  shall  be  near  the  burning  coals,  without  touching 
them  ;  at  the  expiration  of  about  fifteen  minutes  remove  the  arti- 
cles, and  immediately  immerse  them  in  cold  spirits  of  turpentine. 

Any  articles  which,  after  this  last  operation,  may  be  found  defi- 
cient in  brilliancy,  or  not  sufficiently  black,  are  to  be  re-exposed  to 
the  burning  coals  for  a  few  minutes,  and  again  dipped  in  the  spirits 
of  turpentine. 

This  process,  which  may  be  variously  modified  to  suit  different 
articles,  may,  from  its  simplicity,  be  extensively  applied,  and  will 
prove  useful  in  all  cases  in  which  cast  utensils  are  subject  to  rapid 
oxydation. 


SECTION  TWELFTH. 


FIGURED  WEAVING. 

Weave,  brothers,  weave  ! — Swiftly  throw 

The  shuttle  athwart  the  loom. 
And  show  us  how  brightly  your  flowers  grow, 

That  have  beauty  but  no  perfume ! 
Come,  show  us  the  rose,  with  a  hundred  dyes, 

The  lily,  that  hath  no  spot, 
The  violet,  deep  as  your  true  love's  eyes, 

And  the  little  forget-me-not ! 

Sing, — sing,  brothers  !  weave  and  sing  ! 

'Tis  good  both  to  sing  and  to  weave; 
^Tis  better  to  work  than  live  idle, 

^Tis  better  to  sing  than  grieve. 

Weave,  brothers,  weave  ! — Weave,  and  bid 

The  colours  of  sunset  glow  ! 
Let  grace  in  each  gliding  thread  be  hid  ! 

Let  beauty  about  ye  blow ! 
Let  your  skein  be  long,  and  your  silk  be  fine. 

And  your  hands  both  firm  and  sure, 
And  time  nor  chance  shall  your  work  untwine, 

But  all, — like  a  trutli, — endure ! 

So, — sing,  brothers,  ^c. 

Weave,  brothers,  weave  ! — Toil  is  ours ; 

But  toil  is  the  lot  of  men  ; 
One  gathers  the  fruit,  one  gathers  the  flowers. 

One  soweth  the  seed  again ! 
There  is  not  a  creature  from  England's  King, 

To  the  peasant  that  delves  the  soil, 
That  knows  half  the  pleasures  the  seasons  bring, 

If  he  have  not  his  share  of  toil ! 

So, — sing,  brothers,  d^c. 

Barry  Cornwall. 

The  first  loom  for  weaving  figured  fabrics,  by  power,  which  we 
shall  notice,  is  a  damask  loom  ;  but  before  beginning  to  describe  it 
we  shall  offer  a  few  observations  regarding  damask  textures  gen- 
erally. 


424  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING, 

Damask  is  a  variegated  textile  fabric  richly  ornamented  with 
figures  of  flovv^ers,  fruits,  landscapes,  animals,  (fcc,  and  is  a  rich, 
elegant  and  expensive  species  of  ornamental  weaving.  The  name 
is  said  to  be  derived  from  Damascus,  where  it  was  anciently  made, 
with  engines  invented  by  that  celebrated  individual,  E.  K.  Ar- 
phaxad. 

The  tweel  of  damask  is  usually  half  that  of  full  satin  (a  full 
satin  is  woven  with  16  leaves  of  headles,  as  represented  at  page 
109,)  and,  consequently,  consists  of  eight  leaves,  moved  either  in 
regular  succession,  or  at  regular  intervals. 

The  chief  seat  of  the  damask  table-cloth  manufacture  is  at  Lis- 
burn.  Lurgan,  and  Ardoyne,  (near  Belfast,)  Ireland,  where  it  is  con- 
sidered as  the  staple,  having  proved  a  verj^  profitable  branch  of  traf- 
fic, and  given  employment  to  many  thousands  of  industrious  people. 

Damask  table-cloths,  <fec.  are  manufactured  extensively  in 
the  town  and  neighbourhood  of  Dumfermline,  in  Fifeshire,  Scot- 
land ;  but,  in  point  of  texture,  those  made  in  Ireland  greatly 
excel  them,  and  particularly  so  the  goods  produced  by  Michael 
Andrews,  Esq.,  of  Ardoyne,  and  John  Coulson,  Esq.,  of  Lisburn ; 
which  gentlemen  are,  without  exception,  the  best  manufactu- 
rers of  this  species  of  fabric  in  Europe.  Damask  table-cloths 
are  also  manufactured  extensively  in  Belgium,  at  Silesia  (Austria,) 
and  in  different  parts  of  Russia.  In  the  last  of  these  countries  the 
texture  is  coarse,  and  is  commonly  known  by  the  name  of  Russian 
diaper  ;  the  patterns,  however,  often  display  great  taste  :  the  cloth 
has  but  few  picks  of  weft  to  the  inch,  but  it  is  passed  between  two 
powerful  iron  cyhnders,  which  flatten  out  tiie  threads,  and  give  the 
texture  a  finer  appearance  than  it  would  otherwise  have ;  the  goods 
nevertheless  wear  well,  and  are  much  used  in  the  houses  of  the 
middle  classes. 

The  Emperor  Nicholas  holds  out  every  encouragement,  through 
his  agents  in  different  parts  of  Europe,  to  all  workmen  of  talent  in 
the  department  of  figured  weaving.  Sixty  or  seventy  of  the  best 
weavers  in  Great  Britain,  France,  and  Belgium,  have  already  emi- 
grated to  Russia,  for  the  express  purpose  of  estabUshing  manufac- 
tures of  every  description  of  figured  goods  in  that  country. 

The  table-cloth  manufacture  in  Belgium,  is  mostly  confined  to 
Courtray  :  the  principal  manufacturer  there  is  M.  Alexandre,  a  very 
intelligent  and  worthy  individual.  In  France  the  most  extensive 
manufacturer  of  this  kind  of  goods,  is  M.  E.  Feray,  of  Essonne, 
Seine  et  Oise :  this  gentleman  employs  about  100  damask  looms, 
and  as  many  for  weaving  other  stuffs  ;  he  has  two  large  mills,  be- 


FIGURED    WEAVING.  425 

sides  his  damask  factory,  and  an  extensive  machine  shop  ;  the  table- 
cloths produced  by  him  arc  of  a  very  superior  quality.  Mr.  F.  ob- 
tained his  knowledge  of  this  business  in  Ireland,  where  he  seems  to 
have  been  a  pretty  frequent  visiter,  both  before  and  after  commen- 
cing it  on  his  own  account.  We  would  state,  however,  that  for  va- 
rious reasons  which  we  could  name,  neither  his  establishment,  nor 
any  other  in  France,  can  compete  successfully  with  those  of  Ireland 
in  the  production  of  linen  damasks.  Table  and  piano-forte  covers 
are  manufactured  pretty  extensively  in  the  north  of  England  :  but  in 
regard  to  the  finer  kinds  of  linen  damask,  there  is  no  great  pros- 
pect of  their  ever  driving  the  Irisli  manufacture  out  of  the  market. 

This  branch  of  industry  might  be  established  with  success  in  the 
United  States  of  America.  The  raw  material  could  be  grown  in 
many  parts  of  the  country,  as  the  climate  seems  to  be  well  adapted 
to  it ;  and  until  such  time  as  sufficient  quantities  of  flax  could  be 
raised  to  supply  the  home  consumption,  a  profitable  business  might 
be  carried  on  in  the  production  of  table  and  piano-forte  covers,  in 
all  their  varieties.  We  are  convinced  that  5.500  power  looms,  at 
least,  could  find  employment  provided  that  the  influx  of  the  foreign 
article  was  impeded,  by  suitable  import  duties:  but  until  this  is 
done,  it  will  be  impossible  (even  for  the  best  power  loom  machinery 
in  the  world)  to  contend  against  the  manufactures  of  foreign  coun- 
tries, in  a  branch  of  industry,  where  the  most  skillful  manual  la- 
bour goes  for  comparatively  nothing ;  the  compensation  received  by 
those  workmen  who  are  there  employed  in  the  manufacture  being 
merely  sufficient  to  keep  soul  and  body  together.  Even  steam 
power,  in  such  a  case,  would  soon  not  have  a  leg  to  stand  upon,  in 
contending  against  such  famished  loons ;  for  coals,  and  the  wear 
and  tear  of  machinery  cannot  be  kept  up  without  some  expense. 
If  we  w'ere  permitted  to  suggest  locations,  in  the  United  States, 
where  power  looms  might  be  erected,  we  would  say,  that  500  might 
be  established  at  Saco,  Maine ;  500  at  Lowell,  Mass.;  500  at,  or 
near  Providence,  R.  I.;  500  at  Paterson,  N.  J.;  500  at  Troy,  N.  Y.; 
500  at  Mannayunk,  500  at  Pittsburg,  Pa.;  500  at  Columbus,  Ohio ; 
500  at  Richmond,  Va.;  500  in  Georgia  ;  and  500  more  might  find 
profitable  employment  in  Towa  and  MicJtigan.  These  numbers, 
however,  could  easily  be  augmented  from  time  to  time,  so  as  to  keep 
pace  with  the  increase  of  population,  as  well  as  to  meet  ihe  foreign 
demand. 

Damasks  are  woven  in  the  Jacquard  and  draw  looms,  and  also 
in  the  cyhnder  or  barrel  loom.    Mr.  Coulson  uses  the  draw  loom  en- 

54 


426  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

tirely,  because  he  imagines  it  to  be  more  applicable  to  his  very 
comphcated  and  extensive  patterns ;  whereas,  Mr.  Andrews,  em- 
ploys the  Jacquard  principally,  (as  do  nearly  all  the  other  enterpris- 
ing Irish  manufacturers  of  the  present  time,)  and  produces  equally 
perfect  work,  and  as  extensive  patterns,  if  not  superior  to  those  of 
Mr.  Goulson  :  but,  Mr.  C,  being  a  gentleman  of  the  old  school,  has 
long  since  determined  in  himself,  to  discountenance  every  valua- 
ble improvement  which  is  introduced  into  the  trade,  and  conse- 
quently, his  once  celebrated  establishment  is  now  fading  into  the 
"  sear  and  yellow  leaf,"  while  those  manufacturers  of  less  contracted 
views  are  adoptmg  extensively  the  new  improvements  as  they 
rise. 

In  table  cloth  weaving  the  ground  leaves  of  headles  are  gene- 
rally placed  seven  or  eight  inches,  in  fi-ont  of  the  mounting  which 
produces  the  figure ;  for,  if  they  were  too  near  the  mails  of  this 
mounting,  they  would  in  working  strain  and  break  the  warp  threads, 
producing  in  the  face  of  the  cloth  little  loops,  or  something  not  un- 
like the  ears  of  birds  (house  sparrows.) 

Silk  damasks  are  manufactured  in  great  quantities  in  Lyons, 
Paris,  and  several  other  parts  of  France,  for  ladies'  shawls,  <fcc.; 
they  are  also  made  pretty  extensively  in  Spitalfields,  and  ]\Ianche3- 
ter,  (England.)  and  at  Paisley,  (Scotland.)  Damasks  have  of  late 
years  been  introduced  wholly  composed  of  cotton,  in  the  form  of 
shawls,  and  other  kinds  of  ornamental  dresses  ;  and  are  mostly  ex- 
ported for  the  use  of  the  negro  population,  both  in  Africa  and 
America.* 


*  Messrs.  James  and  Lawrence  Holmes,  manufacturers  (late  of  Paisley, 
Scotland)  have  recently  erected  30  or  40  hand-looms  at  Harsimus,  N.  J.,  for 
weaving  imitation  and  damask  shawls.  The  introduction  of  this  kind  of  manu- 
facture into  America,  will,  no  doubt,  be  the  means  of  starving  thousands  of 
ingenious  Paisley  weavers;  or  at  least,  of  compelling  them  to  seek  their 
bread  on  the  American  shores.  We  understand  (from  report)  that  an  enlight- 
ened Scotch  capitalist  has  offered  the  sum  of  80,000/.  for  some  new  improve- 
ments, lately  discovered  by  an  Eastern  antiquarian,  by  means  of  which 
these  shawls  may  be  produced  with  as  much  facility  as  the  common  brown 
sheeting  which  costs  nine  cents  a  yard.  The  price  of  the  fabric,  therefore, 
can  only  exceed  that  of  common  brown  sheeting  by  the  cost  of  material,  in 
as  much  as  the  labour  in  producing  it  is  no  greater.  It  is  reported,  by  the 
antiquarian  himself  that  a  little  girl  of  from  nine  to  ten  years  of  age  can 
tend  four  or  five  of  his  improved  weaving  engines,  which  are  driven  by  a 
powerful  wind-miU  ! 


FIGURED    WEAVING. 


427 


Some  of  the  most  useful  plans  of  tvveeling  are  as  follow  : 


A 

Regular. 


B 

Broken. 


X 

Ms 

1 

X 

M 

1 

X 

-t-ms 

2 

X 

M 

2 

X 

X 

?m 

3 

X 

B 

3 

4 

X 

4 

5 

X 

BB 

5 

5 

4 

3 

2 

1 

5 

4 

3 

2 

1 

c 

Regular. 


D 

Broken. 


X 

1=^ 

1 

X 

^^ 

2 

X 

■  =i= 

3 

=^ 

X 

4 

^^ 

X 

5 

^ 

X 

6 

6 

5 

4 

3 

2 

1 

X 

|B!=* 

1 

^=== 

X 

2 

^E 

3 

pS 

X 

4 

X 

^ 

5 

^ 

X 

6 

6 

5 

4 

3 

2 

1 

E 

Regular. 


F 

Broken. 


X 

■    ■ 

p^ 

1 

X 

^B 

2 

X 

« 

3 

X 

^ 

4 

tfUS 

X 

5 

iM 

X 

6 

K< 

X 

7 

"8^ 

X 

8 

7 

6 

5 

4 

3 

2 

1 

^m 

X 

1 

X 

Mj 

2 

Sa« 

LX' 

3 

X 

rt 

4 

Bg?-S3 

X 

5 

sBK 

X 

G 

X 

B«i 

7 

WW 

X 

8 

8 

7 

e 

o 

4 

3 

2 

1 

G 

Froken. 


H 

Broken. 


X 

^^ 

1 

X 

2 

X 

^^g 

3 

^ 

X 

4 

^ 

X 

5 

/\ 

^B 

6 

^ 

X 

7 

X 

mt 

S 

8 

7 

6 

5 

4 

3 

2 

1 

==s 

X 

1 

X 

SS5 

2 

^ 

X 

3 

=is 

X 

4 

X 

-£^.,.- 

5 

X 

^m 

e 

M 

X 

7 

X 

N 

8 

7 

6 

5 

4 

^ 

» 

1 

These  plans  represent  the  different  tweels  in  use  at  the  present 
day  among  manufacturers  of  damask  table-cloths.  The  tweel 
marked  A,  is  a  regular  tweel  and  that  marked  B,  a  broken  tweel ; 
they  are  both  on  five  leaves  of  headles,  numbered  from  1  to  5  :  ta- 
ble cloths  woven  with  this  tweel  for  the  ground  are  called  bastard 
damask.     The  tweel  shown  at  C,  is  a  six  leaf  regular  tv/eel,  and 


428  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

that  at  D,  a  six  leaf  broken  tweel ;  thej^  are  both  woven  with  six 
treadles :  tliese  tweels  are  not  much  used  in  hnen  or  cotton,  being 
mostly  confined  to  silk  damask  weaving.  E.  is  an  eight  leaf  regular 
tweel,  and  F,  an  eight  leaf  broken  tweel ;  they  are  both  woven 
with  eight  treadles.  G.  and  H.  are  two  other  kinds  of  eight  leaf 
broken  tweels,  also  woven  with  eight  treadles  ;  that  marked  H,  is 
most  commonly  used  by  table-cloth  manufacturers.  The  cross 
marks  in  these  plans  denote  raising  cords,  and  the  black  squares 
sinking  cords.  The  methods  of  arranging  the  leaves  of  headles, 
treadles,  &c.  (which  work  the  ground,)  will  be  hereafter  more  fully 
explained. 

Damasks,  for  table-covers,  are  sometimes  woven  with  a  five  leaf 
tweel,  and  often  with  one  of  eight  or  even  more  leaves.  When  wo- 
ven with  a  jive  leaf  tweel  they  are  usually  denominated  bastard 
damasks,  and  when  more  than  eight  leaves  are  employed  for  the 
ground  they  are  called  superfine  damasks.  The  eight  leaf  tweel, 
as  before  observed,  is  that  which  is  usually  termed  the  damask  tweel. 

The  number  of  threads  in  each  mail  of  these  fabrics  is  likewise 
variable,  being  three,  four,  or  more,  according  to  the  intended  fine- 
ness of  the  web.  Taking  advantage  of  this  circumstance,  the  da- 
mask weaver  has  seldom  occasion  to  change  his  harness,  though  he 
may  require  to  change  the  set  of  his  reed ;  which  is  easily  done  by 
varying  the  number  of  threads  in  each  interval  in  the  same  man- 
ner. This  plan,  for  the  sake  of  economy,  is  often  carried  still  far- 
ther, particularly  where  great  accuracy  is  not  required,  by  drawing 
an  extra  thread  in  a  mail  occasionally  at  regular  intervals,  in  the 
same  way  that  weavers  miss  their  overplus  headles  when  the  hea- 
dles are  finer  than  the  reed.  Damask,  however,  when  wanted  very 
fine,  and  when  jnuch  accuracy  and  delicacy  are  required  in  the 
design  and  colouring  of  the  pattern,  may  he  iioven  in  a  full  har- 
ness ;  but,  as  these  require  a  great  quantity  of  cordage,  and  conse- 
quently are  very  expensive  in  mounting,  especially  when  the  pat- 
tern is  large,  the  full  damask  harness  is  not  common. 

The  Irish  damask  table  cloth  manufacturers  put  4  threads  in  the 
mail  generall}'^,  and  give  4  threads  of  weft  to  the  change  of  pattern, 
changing  the  pattern  twice  for  once  over  the  ground  treadles.  By 
this  means  a  finer  pomt  is  obtained,  and,  of  course,  a  nearer  ap- 
proach is  made  to  the  full  harness  principle  ;  for,  it  is  evident,  that 
if  there  were  eight  threads  of  weft  instead  of  four  threads  given  to 
the  change  of  pattern,  the  point  would  be  coarser  in  the  same  pro- 
portion. 

In  looms  mounted  for  weaving  extensive  patterns,  considerable 


FIGURED    WEAVING.  429 

economy  is  also  obtained  by  introducing  what  is  termed  single  and 
double  mounting.  In  the  single  mounting,  every  mail,  in  each 
part,  has  a  cord  and  needle  to  itself,  and  therefore,  can  be  raised  in- 
dependent of  any  other ;  the  double  mounting  is  merely  certain 
portions  of  the  border  or  body  gathered.  By  using  these  a  vast  deal 
of  expense  is  saved  in  drawing  and  designing,  particularly  in  ex- 
tensive patterns. 

For  example,  suppose  a  damask  table-cloth  were  to  be  woven, 
containing  63  porters  of  warp  and  5  threads  in  each  mail,  then 
we  have 

126  porters  of  warp  ; 
40  threads  in  one  porter  ; 


18  designs. 

,  single 

,   26     do. 

double ; 

12     do. 

single ; 

26     do. 

double ; 

,    18     do. 

single ; 

5)5040  threads ; 
1008  mails  in  the  whole  web. 

Now,  these  may  be  divided  into  parts  thus : — 

For  one  side  border, 
For  the  body  of  the  web, 

do.  do. 

do.  do. 

For  the  other  side  border, 

100  designs ; 
10  mails  in  a  design ; 

1000  mails ; 

which  deducted  from  the  above  given  quantity  of  warp,  leaves  8 
mails,  or  20  dents  of  the  reed  for  selvages.  Here  the  designer  may 
draw  any  pattern  he  pleases  for  the  borders  to  the  extent  of  18  de- 
signs, or  180  cords  of  the  figuring  machine ;  in  the  body  of  the 
table  cover,  he  may  also  draw  any  pattern  he  pleases  on  the  12 
designs  in  the  centre,  as  that  part  is  single  mounting  but  it  must 
be  such  as  will  join  with  the  26  designs  of  double  mounting  on 
each  side,  so  as  to  form  all  the  patterns  into  one  complete  group. 
In  this  example  the  tie  of  the  harness  will  be  180  cords  single,  of 
the  figuring  machine,  of  the  borders ;  260  cords  double,  and  120 
single,  for  the  body ;  making  in  the  whole  560  needles  for  the 
Jacquard. 

Patterns  for  damask  table-cloths  are  designed  on  10  by  10  paper, 
and  may  be  woven  square,  by  adapting  the  number  of  picks  on 
each  change  of  pattern  to  the  intended  thickness  of  the  cloth.  Table- 


430  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

cloth  patterns  are  generally  composed  of  coats  of  arms,  groups  of 
flowers,  landscapes,,  birds,  trees,  &:c. 

Damask  harnesses  are  sometimes  mounted  for  the  draw  loom ; 
sometimes  on  the  Jacquard  plan ;  and  sometimes  the  principles  of 
both  these  are  combined;  as,  for  example,  when  a  coat  of  arms  is 
to  be  woven  in  the  centre  of  a  table-cloth.  In  the  last  case,  the 
borders  and  part  of  the  body  are  commonly  mounted  for  the  Jac- 
quard machine,  while  tlie  part  for  working  the  armorial  bearings  is 
adapted  to  the  draw-boy  (see  draw-loom.)  In  large  mountings,  how- 
ever, there  are  frequently  four  or  more  simples,  and  sometimes  four 
or  more  pulley-boxes,  these  boxes  being  placed  in  the  most  conve- 
nient position  for  the  weaver ;  and  wlien  any  of  the  simples  are  not 
emploved,  they  are  tied  up  and  laid  aside  until  wanted  in  their 
turn. 

It  may  be  further  remarked,  that,  in  weaving  damasks,  in  gene- 
ral, when  any  portion  of  the  harness  cords  are  raised  by  the  Jac- 
quard. to  form  a  flowering  shed,  these  cords  must  be  kept  raised  by 
tlie  machine  until  the  proper  number  of  picks  to  the  card  is  given. 

The  common  damask  shawl  has  uniformly  four  threads  in  the 
mail :  it  is  woven  with  an  eight  leaf  satin  tweel,  like  either  of 
those  marked  F,  G,  or  H.  in  the  preceding  examples  :  and  it  may 
be  woven  witli  four  or  eight  picks  of  weft  to  the  change  of  pattern. 
The  warp  and  weft  of  this  class  of  goods  are,  for  the  most  part,  of 
different  colours. 

The  loom  whicli  now  claims  our  attention,  is  for  weaving  table- 
cloths, bed-covers,  window-curtains,  (kc,  and  was  made  the  subject 
of  a  patent,  in  the  United  States,  by  Messrs.  Tompkins  and  Gilroy, 
of  North  Providence,  R.  I.,  May  9th,  1S35  ;  and  is  the  Jirst  power 
lonm  with  Jacquard  machinery,  for  weaving  these  kinds  of  text- 
ures, ever  erected  in  America.* 


*  Mr.  John  Haight,  of  Harsimus,  N.  J.,  obtained  a  patent,  ]\Iay  ITtli.  1S34, 
for  a  power  bom,  with  Jacquard  machinery,  for  weaving  ingrain  carpets ; 
and  we  beheve  he  had  some  20  or  30  machines  constructed  on  this  principle, 
in  the  year  1S35,  at  Messrs.  Godwin,  Clarke  &  Co"s.  establishment,  Paterson, 
N.  J.,  which  were  put  in  operation  at  Little  Falls.  After  persevering,  how- 
ever, for  some  time,  xcith  a  zeal  vrorthy  of  a  better  cause,  and  expending  the 
round  sum  of  $30,000,  in  the  undertaking,  the  whole  concern  was  abandoned, 
owing  to  imperfections  in  the  machinery,  which  it  would  appear  Mr.  H.  was 
unable  to  remedy.  We  understand  Mr.  Haight  has  lately  sold  this  patent 
for  S60.  to  a  carpet  manufacturing  company  in  Massachusetts ;  which 
company  also  paid  him  other  S60  for  one  of  his  machines.  Some  alter- 
ations have   been   made  upon  this  loom,  by  an  individual  in  the  employ 


FIGURED    WEAVING.  431 

Patents  were  granted  to  us  by  the  English,  French,  and  Belgian 
governments  for  this  loom  in  an  improved  condition,  rendering  it 
available  in  the  manufacture  of  many  kinds  of  coarse  goods ;  and 
we  believe  there  are  at  present  in  these  countries  about  340  ma- 
chines of  the  improved  construction  in  operation.  The  British  pa- 
tents are  in  the  name  of  Moses  Poole,  Esq.,  of  the  Patent  Office, 
London,  the  French,  in  the  name  of  P.  Aug.  Pihet  (of  the  firm  of 

of  the  company,  which  appear,  from  report,  to  he  turning  out  very  advanta- 
geous to  them.  We  have  been  told  that  as  much  as  $400,000  has  been  lately 
offered,  (see  New  York  Evening  Post,  March  19th,  1844,)  by  an  English 
firm,  of  high  standing,  for  the  patent-right  of  the  loom  in  its  present  improved 
slate ;  but  the  offer  was  peremptorily  refused  as  being ^ar  too  trifling  a  com- 
pensation for  so  valuable  a  concern.  We  regret  that  we  neither  can  give 
the  name  nor  address  of  this  firm ;  but  our  present  belief  is,  that  it  must  be 
either  the  Rothschilds  or  Baring,  Brothers  and  Co.  Few  carpet  manufactu- 
ring companies  in  Europe  could  raise  such  a  sum,  however  willing  they 
might  be  to  purchase  the  machine ;  but  we  do  not  think  they  would  make 
much  exertion  upon  the  subject,  when  there  are  already  no  less  than  seven 
different  kinds  of  power  looms  in  Great  Britain,  weaving  Coach  lace,  Ingrain, 
three  ply,  and  Brussels  carpeting,  averaging  20  yards  per  loom  daily,  some- 
times with  as  many  as  10  or  15  shades  of  colour,  aud  producing  goods  of  ex- 
cellent quality.  Four  of  these  inventions  have  been  in  operation  in  England 
since  the  year  1831 ;  there  are  we  believe  three  carpet  power  looms  ia 
France,  and  for  which  patents  have  been  secured,  besides  one  in  Belgium 
and  two  in  Russia;  most  of  these  looms  work  exceedingly  well,  and  besides 
possess  the  merit  of  being  simple  in  construction. 

The  statement  published  in  the  Evening  Post,  in  regard  to  the  sum  of 
£80,000  being  offered  by  a  British  capitalist  for  the  carpet  power  loom  therein 
alluded  to,  has  turned  out,  as  we  were  sure  it  would,  to  be  a  falsehood,  see 
N.  Y.  Journal  of  Commerce  of  June  20. 

We  have  examined  models,  drawings,  and  description,  lodged  in  the  Pa- 
tent Office,  at  Washington,  of  a  loom  for  weaving  carpets  by  power  ;  which 
loom  was  made  the  subject  of  a  patent  in  the  United  States,  granted  to 
Erastus  B.  Bigelow,  Esq.,  Lowell,  Mass.  May  26th,  1842.  The  specification 
and  drawings  of  this  patent  carpet  loom  will  be  given  in  a  work  we  are  pre- 
paring which  will  treat  entirely  of  the  manufacture  of  Carpets  and  Coach 
lace,  &c.  &c.  &c.,  by  power ;  when  the  various  motions  claimed  by  Mr.  B. 
will  be  compared  with  those  of  other  parlies  ;  manufacturers  and  others  in- 
terested, in  Europe  and  America,  will  thus  be  enabled  to  see  what  truly  be- 
longs to  each  claimant. 

"  When  people  treat  you  ill,  and  show  their  spite,  and  slander  you,  enter 
into  their  little  souls,  go  to  the  bottom  of  them,  search  their  understandings; 
and  you  will  soon  see  that  nothing  they  may  think  or  say  of  you  need  give 
you  one  troublesome  thought" 


432 


THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 


P.  Aug.  Pihet  &  Co.)  Paris ;  and  the  Belgian,  in  the  name  of  Hen- 
ry Trufifaut,  patent-agent,  8  Rue  Favart,  Paris.  A  description  of 
this  improved  loom  (accompanied  with  suitable  engravings)  is  given 
in  the  London  Repertory  of  Patent  Inventions,  vol.  10  (1838)  page 
129,  where  it  is  stated  by  the  editor,  that  it  is  the  first  power  loom 
in  Great  Britain  to  which  Jacquard  machinery  had  been  applied  : 
this,  however,  is  a  mistake,  as  we  applied  Jacquard  machinery  to 
power  looms  for  weaving  Marseilles  quilts  and  various  kinds  of  car- 
peting, as  far  back  as  the  commencement  of  the  year  1831. 

Fk.  203. 


Fig,  203,  represents  a  longitudinal  or  side  elevation  of  the  loom 
as  constructed  in  Great  Britain,  France,  and  Belgium  ;  Fig.  204,  a 
front  view,  in  elevation ;  Fig.  205,  a  cam  wheel  for  working  the 
cylinder  treadle.  Fig.  206,  a  plan  of  that  part  of  the  cylinder  treadle 
into  which  the  cam  wheel  is  inserted,  for  the  purpose  of  working  the 
Jacquard  machinery  ;  Fig.  207,  a  side  view  of  the  notched  cam  or 
wheel  which  governs  the  shuttle  motion  ;  Fig.  208,  the  apparatus  for 
throwing  the  shuttle ;  Fig.  209,  a  modification  of  the  cam  wheel 
shown  at  Fig.  205  ;  Fig.  210,  the  apparatus  for  throwing  the  loom  in 
and  out  of  gear  ;  and  Fig.  211,  the  cam  shaft,  carrying  eight  cams. 


FIGURED   WEAVING. 
Fig.  204. 


433 


A  A  A  A  A,  Fig.  203,  Frame  of  the  i 
loom. 

B  B,  Jacquard  machine,  as  construct- 
ed by  Mr.  Thomas  Morton,  of  Kil- 
marnock, Scotland. 

C  C,  The  lay. 

D  D,  Leaves  of  headles  for  working 
the  ground. 

E  E,  Jacquard  harness,  or  back 
mounting,  for  producing  the  figure. 

F  F,  Pattern-cards. 

G,  Fig.  204,  wires  to  hold  the  pattern- 
cards,  at  each  side,  and  about  four 
inches  from  their  ends.  Into  these 
wires  the  cards  drop  as  they  are 
delivered  from  the  cylinder. 

H,  Fig.  203,  The  yarn  beam. 

I,  Fig.  203,  Lease  "rods. 

J,  Whip  roller  over  which  the  yarn 
passes  in  its  progress  to  the  har- 
ness E  E. 

K,  Stand  to  support  harness  board 
having  a  governing  slot  and  bolt  to 
raise  or  depress  it,  to  suit  any  posi- 
tion required. 

L,  The  breast  beam  over  which  the 
cloth  passes  in  its  progress  to  the 
roller  M. 


M,  The  cloth  roller. 
N,  Ratchet  wheel    which    communi- 
cates motion  to  the  cloth  roller  M. 
O,  Protector,  by  means  of  which  the 

loom  is  thrown  out  of  gear  in  case 

the  shuttle,  from  any  cause,  fails  to 

enter  the  shuttle-box. 
P,  Fig.  203,  Arm  which  connects  the 

lay  to  the  crank  shaft. 
Q,  Q,,  Fig.  204,  Pickers  for  driving  the 

shuttle. 
R,  Fig.  204,  Top  rail  to  steady  the 

reed,  in  the  usual  way. 
S  S,  Weights  to  counterbalance  the 

front  mounting. 
T  T,  Guides  to  keep  the  weights  S  S, 

in  their  proper  positions. 
U,  Wires,  or  cords,  which  connect  the 

weights  S  S,  to  the  top  jacks  V  V. 

V  V,  Top  jacks. 

W  W,  Swords  of  the  lay,  which  are 
suspended  above  at  X,  (see  Fig. 
203.) 

X,  Stand  to  support  the  lay,  one  at 
each  side  of  the  loom. 

Y  Y,  Picker  sticks. 

Z  Z,  Triangles  for  giving  the  picker 


434 


THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 


sticks  motion ;  a  view  of  this  appa- 
ratus will  be  had  at  Fig.  208. 

A',  Wire  or  cord,  which  connects  the 
Jacquard  arm  B',  to  the  cylinder 
treadle  C'. 

B',  Jacquard  lifting  arm. 

C',  Cylinder  treadle  to  which  the  lift- 
ing arm  B',  is  connected,  by  means 
of  the  wire  or  cord  A'  (see  Fig. 
203.) 

D'  D',  (Fig.  205,)  Cam  wheel  to  work 
the  treadle  C',  by  means  of  which 
the  flowering  shed  is  opened  :  this 
cam  wheel  is  keyed  on  the  cam 
shaft  inside  the  framing  of  the 
loom ;  its  position  is  indicated  at 
the  left,  in  Fig.  204,  by  the  slotted 
guide,  in  which  the  end  of  the  cyl- 
inder treadle  is  perceptible. 

E'  E',  (Fig.  209,)  A  modification  of 
the  cam-wheel  D'  D'. 

F',  (Fig.  208,)  Dog  to  throw  the  shut- 
tle, by  knocking  against  the  short 
end  of  the  triangle  Z,  in  the  back- 
ward motion  of  the  lay. 

G',  Adjustable  face  of  the  dog  F',  by 
the  bringing  of  which  nearer  to,  or 
farther  from  the  fulcrum  of  the  tri- 
angle Z,  a  greater  or  less  degree 
of  force,  or  rapidity  of  motion  may 
be  given  to  the  shuttle. 

H',  (Fig.  211,)  Cam  shaft  carrying 
eight  cams  I',  the  form  of  which  is 
shown  more  clearly  at  J'. 

r  (Fig.  211,)  Cams  to  work  the 
ground  headles ;  these  cams  may 
have  small  rollers  at  their  ends  if 
preferable  instead  of  being  plain, 
as  shown  in  the  Fig. 

J'  (Fig.  211,)  One  of  the  cams  I'. 

K',  (Fig.  207,)  Shuttle  wheel,  divided 
into  9  equal  parts,  5  parts  being  left 
solid  and  4  parts  cut  out,  as  shown 
in  the  Fig.;  the  part  marked  N',  is 
double.  One  of  these  shuttle  wheels 
K',  is  keyed  on  the  cam  shaft  H', 
inside  the  framing  of  the  loom,  at 
each  side,  as  shown  in  Fig.  204. 

L-,  (Figs.  203  and  207,)  Shuttle  lever 
having  a  projection  M',  made  upon 
it,  which  works  in  the  shuttle  wheel 
K' :  this  lever  L',  works  on  a  ful- 
crum fixed  to  the  framing  of  the 
loom,  as  shown  in  Fig.  203. 

M',  (Fig.  207,)  Projection  of  the  le- 
ver L'.  working  in  the  shuttle 
wheel  K'. 

N',  Double  space  on  the  shuttle  wheel 
K',  for  the  purpose  of  causing  the 
shuttle  to  miss  every  ninth  pick  of 
weft,  or  every  nintli  revolution  of 


the  crank  shaft,  although  the  other 
parts  of  the  machinery  continue  in 
operation;  the  object  of  this  is,  to 
give  the  Jacquard  machinery  suffi- 
cient time  to  operate.  In  setting 
the  shuttle  wheels  K',  on  the  cam 
shaft,  care  must  be  taken  that  they 
be  so  adjusted  in  relation  to  each 
other  as  to  permit  the  double  spa- 
ces N',  to  hold  up  the  projection 
M',  of  the  lever  L',  every  ninth  re- 
volution of  the  crank  shaft. 

0-,  (Figs.  203  and  204,)  Cam-shaft 
wheel,  which  has  nine  times  the 
number  of  teeth  of  the  pinion  that 
works  into  it,  as  shown  in  Fig.  203. 

P',  (Fig.  204,)  Counter  marches  to 
which  the  headles  D  D,  are  con- 
nected by  cording,  in  the  usual  way, 
underneath. 

Q,',  (Fig.  204,)  Fulcrum  of  the  coun- 
termarches P'. 

R-,  (Fig.  204,)  Rack  to  guide  the 
ground  treadles  and  keep  them 
steady  in  their  respective  places : 
the  ends  of  the  treadles  are  shown 
in  the  rack. 

S',  Long  march  of  the  cylinder  trea- 
dle C,  for  the  purpose  of  carrying 
the  wire  or  cord  A',  which  works 
the  Jacquard  lifting  arm  B',  outside 
the  selvage  or  warp  yarn. 

T-,  (Fig.  204,)  Small  lever,  having  a 
weight  U',  at  its  left  end,  for  coun- 
terbalancing the  cylinder  treadle 
C',  to  which  it  is  connected. 

U',  Counter  balance  of  the  cylinder 

V  V-,  (Fig.'  204,)  Small  rollers  for 
guiding  the  neck  of  the  har- 
ness E  E. 

W,  (Fig.  204,)  Cylinder  with  the 
hooks  which  turn  it,  in  the  usual 
way,  as  at  Fig-s.  93  and  94. 

X',  (Fig.  203,)  The  warp  yarn. 

Y',  The  cloth. 

Z',  (Fig.  204,)  Wires  or  cords,  which 
connect  the  headles  to  the  jacks  VV. 
The  apparatus  shown  at  Fig. 
210,  is  for  the  purpose  of  throwing 
the  loom  in  and  out  of  gear ;  and 
to  prevent  confusion  it  is  not  repre- 
sented in  Figs.  203  and  204. 

A"  (Fig.  210,)  Crank  shaft,  with  the 
apparatus  for  throwing  the  loom  in 
and  out  of  gear  fixed  on  its  end. 

B"  B",  Belt  pulley  on  the  end  of  the 
Crank  shaft  A',  having  two  holes 
C"  C",  made  in  two  of  its  arms,  as 
shown  in  Fig.  210. 

C"  C',  Holes  made  in  the  arms  of  the 


FIGURED    WEAVING. 


435 


pulley  D",  to  receive  two  stud-pins, 
which  revolve  with  the  pulley: 
these  stud-pins  are  fixed  into  the 
slide  piece  L",  and  are  shipped  in 
and  out  of  the  latch  wheel  D",  by 
means  of  a  lever  with  a  fork  work- 
ing into  the  hollowed-out  place 
shown  between  the  letters  L"  L", 
Fig.  210,  as  is  well  understood  by 
all  practical  machinists. 

D",  Wheel  with  latches  E"  E",  in- 
serted into  its  outer  edges,  in  oppo- 
site directions,  as  shown  in  Fig. 
210:  these  latches  work  on  the  ful- 
crum pins  I"  I" ;  and  the  springs 
F"F",  (which  must  be  made  of 
steel)  keep  the  latches  E"  E", 
pressed  down  at  their  points  (oppo- 
site to  their  fulcra,)  against  tlae 
cross-bar  H"  H",  in  opposite  direc- 
tions, as  shown  in  Fig.  210. 

E"  E",  Latches  working  into  the  out- 
er edges  of  the  wheel  D". 

F"  F ",  Springs  to  keep  the  latches 
E"E",  constantly  pressed  against 
the  cross-bar  H"  H". 

G"  G",  Four  small  set-screws  for  hold- 
ing the  springs  F",  F",  firmly, 
two  set  screws  to  each  spring,  as 
shown  in  Fig.  210. 

H"  H",  Cross-piece  of  the  latch- 
wheel  D",  forming  a  part  of  the 
wheel  D",  being  cast  with  it. 

I"  I",  Axis,  or  fulcrum  of  the  latches 
E-  E". 

J",  (Figs.  205  and  206,)  Small  roller 
fixed  in  the  cylinder  treadle  C,  for 
the  cam  wheel  D',  (Fig.  205,)  to 
roll  on,  by  which  means  the  Jac- 


quard  machinery  is  put  into  opera- 
tion. 

K",  (Figs.  203  and  207,)  Lifting-rod 
coimected  to  the  lever  L',  for  the 
purpose  of  lifting  the  dog  F',  and 
extends  upward,  as  in  Fig.  203,  im- 
mediately behind  the  triangle  Z. 

L"  L",  (Fig.  210,)  Slide-piece  carry- 
ing stud-pins  lor  the  purpose  of 
throwing  the  loom  in  and  out  of 
gear.  The  wheel  D"  is  keyed 
firmly  on  the  extreme  end  of  the 
crank  shaft  A",  as  shown  in  Fig. 
210,  the  stud-pins  being  slid  in  or 
out  of  it  at  pleasure,  by  the  person 
Avho  tends  the  machine :  in  Fig. 
210,  the  apparatus  is  full  geared, 
as  when  the  loom  is  in  operation. 
When  the  stud-pins,  fixed  in  the 
plate  L"  L",  are  thrown  into  the 
wheel  D"  D",  as  shown  in  Fig.  210, 
the  belt-pulley  B  '  B",  carries  them 
round  inside  of  the  wheel  D  ",  until 
they  lock  themselves  in  the  ends  of 
the  latches  E"  E",  which  will  be 
easily  accomplished,  because  the 
latches  E "  E",  being  somewhat 
larger  near  their  ends,  at  the  cross- 
bar H"  H",  will  be  forced  outward 
by  the  pins  as  the  bell  pulley  B"  B", 
revolves,  until  the  stud-pins  come 
up  against  the  cross-bar  H"  H", 
whereupon  the  latches  E"  E",  are 
instantly  shut  down  upon  the  pins, 
holding  them  against  the  cross-bar 
H"  H",  when  the  loom  continues  its 
ordinary  evolutions,  until  the  stud- 
pins  are  slid  out  of  the  wheel 
D"  D'. 


In  this  loom  the  ground-work  of  the  cloth  is  considered  as  being 
made  with  eight  leaves  of  headles.  If  the  ground  is  required  to  be 
different,  then,  the  arrangement  will  of  course  vary,  according  to 
the  number  of  leaves  of  headles  to  be  used  ;  but  to  make  the  ma- 
chine better  understood,  we  have  represented  it  with  eight  leaves  of 
headles,  and  as  many  treadles  to  work  them,  movement  to  which  is 
communicated  in  the  following  manner. 

Upon  the  cam  shaft  H'  H',  (Figs.  204  and  211,)  are  fixed  eight  cams 
IT,  each  being  held  firmly  by  three  set  screws,  inserted  at  equal  dis- 
tances on  the  circumference  of  its  hub.  These  cams  1'  I',  work  upon 
suitable  iron  shoes,  bolted  on  the  treadles  (one  shoe  to  each  treadle)  in 
regular  succession  from  right  to  left,  until  they  are  all  gone  over  and 
eight  picks  of  weft  given.  It  is  with  this  design  that  they  are  placed 
spirally  on  the  cam  shaft  H'H',  as  represented  in  Fig.  211.  By 
this  arrangement  may  be  obtained  all  the  positions  required  for 


436  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

tweeling  the  ground.     The  cam  wheel  D'  D',  (Fig.  205,)  is  divided 

Fig.  207     -^[' 

gii'M:B|i;!llli;P|iBI||lllllll!illiy!IHII!!llll!MI!!W"HW|::!!lll!WI|yBll,illl^ 


Fiq.ZOS 


into  nine  equal  parts,  eight  of  which  are  occupied  by  the  cams  I' I' : 
the  ninth  part  corresponds  to  the  opening  or  jog  of  the  cam  wheel 
D'  D'.  Motion  is  communicated  to  the  cam  shaft  H'  H',  by  the 
wheel  O',  (Figs.  203  and  204.)  shown  on  its  axis  ;  and  the  pinion 
which  meshes  into  it  (Fig.  203)  is  fixed  on  the  end  of  the  crank 
shaft,  the  whole  receiving  motion  from  the  belt  pulley  B'  B'',  placed 
on  the  opposite  end  of  the  crank  shaft.  The  number  of  teeth  in 
the  pinion  is  nine  times  less  than  those  of  the  wheel  O' ;  that  is  to 
say  for  example,  162  teeth  in  the  wheel  O',  and  18  in  the  pinion ; 
consequently,  the  pinion  makes  nine  revolutions  while  the  wheel  O', 
is  making  one ;  and  the  lay  C,  being  connected  at  each  side  of  the 
loom  to  the  crank  shaft,  by  suitable  arms  (one  of  which  is  shown 
in  Fig.  203)  will  bring  the  reed  into  contact  with  the  fell  of  the 
cloth  nine  times  during  one  revolution  of  the  cam  wheel  D'  D'. 


Fij.ZlO 


But,  it  is  necessary  to  remark,  that  for  the  satin  or  tweeled  ground 
chosen  (for  example)  eight  picks  of  weft  should  be  given  to  every 
change  of  the  pattern  produced  by  the  Jacquard  machinery ;  and 
while  the  change  of  pattern  is  being  effected  by  the  Jacquard,  the 
shuttle  should  remain  at  rest,  and  consequently  the  ninth  stroke  of 
the  lay  C,  would  take  place  without  giving  motion  to  the  shuttle. 
The  lay  C,  is  suspended  from  the  top  of  the  loom  the  same  as  in 


FIGURED    WEAVING.  437 

common  hand  looms:  the  picker  sticks  YY,  are  connected  to  the 
swords  of  the  lay  (one  at  each  side  of  the  loom)  by  means  of 
crutches  (Fig.  204.)     Suitable  leather   straps  connect  the  picker 
sticks,  one  to  each,  to  the  extreme  ends  of  the  triangles  Z  Z,  (Figs. 
203,  204  and  208.)     Motion  for  throwing  the  shuttle  is  communi- 
cated to  the  triangles  Z  Z,  by  the  shuttle  wheels  K'  K',  working 
upon  the  cam  shaft  H'  H',  at  each  side  of  the  loom  (Fig.  204)  inside 
the  framing.     One  of  these  shuttle  wheels  is  shown  separate  at  Fig. 
207 ;  each  is  divided  into  nine  equal  parts,  four  of  which  are  cut 
out  and  the  other  five  project  in  the  form  of  teeth ;  the  fifth  is  joined 
to  the  fourth,  as  shown  at  N',  Fig.  207,  and  makes  a  double-sized 
tooth.     A  lever  L',  at  each  side  of  the  loom,  as  shown  in  Fig.  203, 
rests  upon  one  of  the  shuttle  wheels  K',  and  brings  to  the  point  of 
contact  with  it  a  projection   M',  of   lance-like  form,  which,  when 
brought  to  a  projection  in  the  wheel  K',  raises  the  lever,  and  when 
in  the  notch,  lowers  it ;    and  thus  the  rotary  motion  of  the  wheels 
K'  K',  elevates  and  depresses  alternately  the  lever  L',  so  that  one 
of  these  levers  is  raised  while  the  other  is  depressed,  except  when 
the  two  double  projections  N'  N',  (Fig.  207)  of  the  wheels  act  to- 
gether at  the  end  of  their  revolution  and  hold  up  together.     At  the 
end  of  each  of  the  levers  L'  L',  is  joined  a  rod  K"  K",  (Figs.  203 
and  207,)  which  is  connected  to  a  dog  F',  (Fig.  208 ;)  this  dog  F', 
is  attached  to  the  frame-work  of  the  loom  above  (one  dog  at  each 
side)  in  such  a  way  that  it  may  easily  move  when  the  lever  L',  is 
raised  or  lowered.     In  front  of  the  dog  F',  is  adapted  to  the  sword 
of  the  lay  W,  a  mechanical  arrangement  (a  side  view  of  which  is 
shown  in  Fig.  203,  and  a  plan,  as  seen  from  above,  in  Fig.  208) 
of  parts  which  we  call  a  triangle  ;  the  triangle  will  make  a  circular 
and  a  horizontal  movement  alternately  upon  its  axis.     It  will  be 
evident,  that  when  one  of  the  levers  L'  L',  is  raised  by  one  of  the 
projections  of  the  wheels  K',  at  one  side  of  the  loom,  the  corres- 
ponding dog  F',  which  is  in  connexion  with  it,  through  the  medium 
of  the  hfting  rod  K",  will  also  be  raised  ;  and,  on  the  contrary,  it  is 
lowered  when  the  lever  L',  falls  into  one  of  the  notches  in  the  shut- 
tle wheel  K'.     When  the  lever  L',  is  lowered  (as  shown  in  Fig. 
207)  the  rod  K",  allows  the  dog  F',  to  be  also  lowered,  just  before 
the  lay  moves  back  far  enough  to  impede  it  in  its  descent,  the  dog 
F',  dropping  directly  on  a  level  with  the  short  end  of  the  triangle 
Z,  and  immediately  behind  it,  will  cause  the  triangle  to  turn  quick- 
ly upon  its  axis,  drawing,  at  the  same  instant,  the  picker-stick,  with 
which  it  is  connected  by  a  leather  strap,  forward  rapidly,  which  in 
its  turn  acts  upon  the  shuttle.     The  rods  K"  K",  (Figs.  203  and 


438  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

207.)  are  a  little  flattened  at  their  upper  ends,  forming  shoulders,  the 
flat  parts  take  into  the  dogs  F'  F',  (one  at  each  side  of  the  loom) 
and  the  shoulders  serve  to  support  the  dogs  F  F',  and  keep  thein 
from  dropping  down  on  the  rods  K"  K".  One  of  the  slots  made  in 
the  dog  F';  is  shown  at  Fig.  20S,  immediately  above  the  letter  F'. 
According  to  the  arrangement  of  the  shuttle  wheels  K'  K'.  one  of 
the  picker-sticks  Y  Y,  is  left  at  rest,  while  the  other  is  in  motion, 
and  they  are  both  at  rest  when  the  large  projections  N'N',  (Fig. 
207,)  on  the  shuttle  wheels  K'  K',  act  simultaneously  upon  the 
levers  L'  L'.  At  this  moment  the  shuttle  is  not  thrown,  and  it  is 
then  that  the  cyhnder  wheel  D'  D'.  produces  a  change  of  the  pat- 
tern cards ;  that  is  to  say,  at  every  ninth  revolution  of  the  crank 
shaft,  the  lay  at  this  time  beating  up  against  the  fell  of  the  cloth 
without  adding  an}'  weft  thread  thereto. 

From  what  has  been  said  of  this  machine,  we  think  no  practical 
weaver  or  loom-builder  will  have  any  difficulty  in  comprehending 
the  arrangement.  In  describing  it  we  have  not  shown  the  mechan- 
ism for  governing  the  giving  out  of  the  warp  and  taking  up  the  cloth, 
because  it  is  the  same  as  that  represented  at  Figs.  161,  162,  163, 
and  164  ;  which  see. 

Figs.  212,  213,  214,  215,  216  and  217,  represent  a  loom  for 
weaving  figured  fabrics,  such  as  are  commonly  known  under  the 
names  of  imperial  or  French  quilts,  imperial  petticoat  robes,  and 
also  quilted  vestings  :  which  loom  was  patented  in  England.  Scot- 
land and  France  in  1839  ;  and  the  Enghsh  patent,  which  is  in  the 
name  of  Thomas  Yates,  of  Bolton-le-moor,  county  of  Lancaster, 
was  sealed  7th  November,  in  the  same  year. 

The  apparatus  for  giving  out  the  warp  and  taking  up  the  cloth 
in  this  loom,  being  nearly  the  same  as  that  now  commonly  used, 
we  have  thought  it  unnecessarv  to  show  it  in  the  Figs. 

The  improvements  consist,  in  a  novel  arrangement  of  mechanism 
in  combination  with  the  various  essential  parts  of  the  ordinary 
power  loom,  for  the  purpose :  firstly,  of  effecting  with  greater  facili- 
ty the  shedding  of  the  warps,  in  connexion  with  the  headles.  and 
working  various  descriptions  of  cloth,  by  means  of  revolving  tappet 
plates,  with  bowls ;  and  also  a  certain  provision  in  such  tappet 
plates,  whereby  the  ground  may  be  varied  with  readiness  ;  secondl}', 
in  an  arrangement  of  mechanism  for  the  purpose  of  lifting  and  de- 
pressing the  shuttle  boxes,  to  or  from  the  level  of  the  shuttle-race  in 
the  lay,  in  those  looms  where  two  or  more  qualities,  kinds  or  colours 
of  weft,  are  to  be  employed  :  thirdly,  in  a  certain  and  effective  mode 
of  raising  the  "  griff"  of  the  Jacquard  machine  in  all  such  looms 


FIGURED   WEAVING. 


439 


where  this  apparatus  is  or  may  be  employed ;  and,  fourthly,  in  a 
contrivance  or  arrangement  of  mechanism,  for  the  purpose  of  throw- 
ing the  loom  out  of  gear  when  the  weft  thread  breaks  or  becomes 


440 


THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 


exhausted  in  the  shuttle,  or  when  "  the  taking  up"  of  the  cloth 
upon  the  cloth  roller  is  not  equal  to  its  production  ;  such  motion  be- 
ing governed  by  the  ordinary  beat  or  vibration  of  the  lay. 

Fig.  212,  represents  a  front  elevation  of  the  improved  power  loom ; 
Fig.  213,  a  side  elevation,  taken  at  the  right  hand  side  of  Fig.  212 ; 
and  Fig.  214,  is  a  vertical  section,  taken  through  about  the  middle 
of  the  loom. 

Fig.  213. 


The  framing  of  the  loom  is  marked  a,  a,  a,  supporting  the  several 
warp  rollers  6,  6',  6^,  from  whence  the  warp  threads  proceed  through 
the  headles  c,  c,  also  through  the  reed  d,  d,  of  the  lay  e,  over  the 
breast  beam  /,  to  the  cloth  roller  g;  as  usual.  This  loom  is  also 
provided  with  an  additional  framing  h,  h,  for  the  purpose  of  sup- 
porting the  Jacquard  machine  or  apparatus  i,  i,  with  its  pattern- 
cards  j',j,  hooked  wires  k,  and  lifting  griff/,  I.  There  are  also  two 
shuttle  boxes  m,  which  must  be  raised  and  lowered  to  the  level  of 
the  shuttle-race,  as  occasion  may  require  ;  and  also  peculiarly  con- 
structed tappet  plates  or  wheels  n,  n,  for  the  purpose  of  performing 
the  requisite  working  of  the  ground. 

The  power  is  to  be  applied  to  the  driving  pulley  c',  by  the  strap  p, 
p,  and  thus,  by  means  of  the  crank  shaft  q,  cause  the  lay  e,  to  beat 
up  the  cloth  ;  and  also,  by  means  of  the  pinion  r,  (Fig.  212)  and 


FIGURED    WEAVING.  441 

wheel  s,  upon  the  tappet  shaft  f,  t,  cause  the  tappets  fi,  n,  to  revolve, 
and  thus  the  alternate  motion  of  the  picker-sticks  v,  v,  will  be 
effected,  as  in  ordinary  power  looms. 

There  is  also  upon  the  reverse  end  of  the  shaft  q,  a  smaller  pinion 
w,  taking  into  the  spur-wheel  .r,  (Fig.  212)  fastened  by  means  of 
bolts  y,  7/,  to  the  tappet  plates  or  wheels  n,  n,  carrying  their  respec- 
tive bowls  1,  1,  1,  which  act  upon  the  inclined  treadle-plates  2,  2,  2, 
(Fig.  213.)  The  treadle  levers  3,  3,  (an  end  view  of  which  is 
shown  in  Fig.  212)  are  connected  by  the  stringing  to  the  headles 
c,  c,  and  are  all  mounted  side  by  side,  each  upon  a  separate  axis, 
but  formed  as  tubes,  and  placed  one  witliin  another  to  save  room ; 
the  fulcrum  of  these  treadles  is  shown  at  z,  Fig.  214.  This  ar- 
rangement of  mechanism  is  peculiar  to  the  first  part  of  the  improve- 
ments in  the  construction  of  looms.  The  tappet  plates  or  wheels 
n,  n,  n,  are  provided  with  concentric  slots  or  mortices  4,  4,  Figs. 
213  and  216,  in  which  the  studs  of  the  bowls  1,  1,  are  fixed  by 
suitable  nuts  ;  and  it  will  be  readily  understood  by  any  practical 
w'eaver,  that  by  loosening  the  nut  or  nuts,  and  shifting  these  bowls 
in  the  concentric  mortices  4,  considerable  variety  of  shifts,  mnubers, 
or  clianges  "  to  the  round"  may  be  thus  simply  and  readily  accom- 
phshed.  The  description  of  cloth,  by  means  of  the  tappet  wheel 
may  be  easily  varied  in  plain  weaving,  or  in  weaving  grounds  or 
"  quiltings'^  in  co?nbitiatioji  loith  the  Jigures  produced  by  or  iviih 
the  Jacquard  machiwry,  such  as  single  or  double  cloth,  sati)i, 
ticecledy  plain,  or  stitched  faces,  called  qu.iltings,  i^/c. 

The  second  part  of  the  improvements,  namely,  the  arrangement 
of  machinery  for  lifting  and  depressing  the  shuttle  boxes  to  or  from 
the  level  of  the  shuttle-race,  will  now  be  described  : — Supposing  the 
tappet  bowls,  just  noticed,  to  be  adjusted  to  weave  a  plain  double 
cloth,  with  the  envployment  of  two  shuttle  boxes,  or  a  figured  cloth, 
woven  in  different  colours,  and  having  a  stitched  or  quilted  sur- 
face, the  upper  shuttle  in  the  box  m,  containing  the  fine  weft,  is 
now  just  lifted  up,  as  shown  in  Fig.  212,  by  means  of  a  concentric 
tappet  plate  6,  6,  (Figs.  212,  213  and  217)  fastened  by  bolts  to  the 
side  of  the  outer  tappet  plate  n,  n,  (see  Fig.  212)  as  it  revolves,  ac- 
ting upon  the  bowl  or  roller  7,  in  the  carrier  8,  (Figs.  212  and  213) 
attached  to  one  end  of  the  levers  g',  g',  upon  the  cross  shaft  10. 
To  the  other  end  of  these  levers^',  are  attached  vertical  rods  11, 
11,  adjustable  by  a  screw  in  the  middle,  which  enter  at  the  bottom 
of  the  shuttle-race  in  the  lay,  and  thus  project  the  shuttle-boxes, 
with  the  shuttles,  upwards  ;  the  top  shuttle  is  thus  kept  up  out  of 
the  shuttle-race,  as  long  as  the  concentric  tappet  plate  6,  is  acting 

56 


442 


THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 


upon  the  bowl  7  ; — that  is  long  enough  for  the  lower  shuttle,  con- 
taining coarse  laeft,  to  put  in  one  pick,  prior  to  the  Jacquard 
shedding,  and  one  return  p>ick  of  the  same  weft  after  the  Jac- 
quard shedding,  when  the  bowl  7,  will  immediately  ascend,  and 
allow  tlie  shuttle  boxes  m,  m,  to  descend  by  their  own  gravity  ; 
and  thus  the  upper  shuttle  is  enabled  to  put  in  two  picks  of  fine, 
or  coloured  weft,  before  the  Jacquard  machine  comes  again  into 


FIGURED    WEAVING. 


443 


operation,  and  also  two  picks  of  fine,  or  coloured  weft,  prior  to 
the  next  ascent  of  the  shuttle  boxes. 

Fig.  215. 


The  third  feature  of  the  improvement  comes  into  operation,  in 
order  to  complete  the  weaving-,  or  to  put  in  the  quilting^  or  stitch- 
ing- threads,  by  shedding  the  coloured  warps  b',  and  b- ; — this  is 
accompHshed  by  an  improved  method  of  hfting  and  lowering  the 
griflf  of  the  Jacquard  machine,  in  order  to  insure  a  perfect  regu- 
larity and  steadiness  of  action  in  moving  either  upwards  or  down- 
wards. For  this  purpose  a  spur  wheel  12,  12,  is  attached,  to  drive 
the  small  pinion  13,  (Figs.  212  and  213)  keyed  upon  the  shaft  14; 
and  upon  the  reverse  end  of  this  shaft  14,  a  pair  of  segments  15, 
15,  having  beveled  teeth  formed,  upon  one  sixth  part  of  their 
circumference  only,  each  driving  successively,  the  pinion  16,  upon 
the  small  cross  shaft  17,  (Fig.  214  ;)  that  is,  these  segments  of 
teeth  are  so  arranged,  that  as  soon  as  the  one  segment  of  teeth  15, 
(Fig.  212)  has  turned  tlie  pinion  16,  (Fig.  216)  one  half  of  a  revo- 
lution in  one  direction,  the  other  segment  of  teeth  15,  instantly 
turns  the  pinion  16,  one  half  of  a  revolution  in  the  reverse  direction. 
In  order  to  transfer  this  rerersing  motion  to  the  raising  and  lower- 
ing motion  of  the  griff  of  the  Jacquard  machine,  there  is  a  bevel 
wheel  18,  upon  the  other  end  of  the  small  shaft  17,  taking  into  a 
pinion  19,  of  half  its  diameter,  at  the  lower  end  of  the  vertical  shaft 
20,  20,  which  has,  at  its  upper  end,  a  head-piece  22,  22,  having 
side  grooved  pieces  23,  23,  in  which  the  pins  24,  24,  fast  upon  the 


444 


THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 


head  of  the  double  screw  25,  25,  (Fig.  214)  work,  and  thus  turn 
the  double  screw  round.  This  double  screw  25,  25,  is  cut  half  its 
length  ill  reverse  directions,  and  works  in  the  guide  26,  which  will 
have  the  effect  of  lifting  the  griff  through  the  required  space,  in 
half  the  time  that  the  crank  shaft  makes  one  revolution. 

Fig.  216. 


The  fourth  part  of  these  improvements  in  the  construction  of 
looms,  consists,  in  an  arrangement  of  mechanism,  designed  for  the 
purpose  of  throwing  the  loom  out  of  gear  with  the  driving  power, 
either  when  the  weft  breaks  or  becomes  expended  in  the  shuttle,  or 
when  the  taking  up  of  the  cloth  is  not  equal  to  the  production. 
This  is  accomplished  by  the  ordinary  beat  or  vibration  of  the  lay 
itself  and  not  at  all  dependent  upon  the  coarseness  or  fineness  of 
the  weft  thread.  A  stud  27.  in  the  sword  of  the  la3\  usually  em- 
ployed for  working  the  taking  up  motion  28,  operates  upon  a  small 
lever  29,  to  which  is  attached  the  click  30,  (Figs.  213  and  214) 
giving  motion  to  the  ratchet  wheel  31,  one  tooth  at  every  beat  of 
the  lay.  Upon  this  ratchet  wheel  are  four  small  pins  32,  32,  (see 
detached  Fig.  215,  drawn  to  a  larger  scale  :)  this  wheel  runs 
loosely  upon  a  small  stud  33,  which  stud  also  carries  a  smaller 
ratchet  wheel  34,  keyed  fast  upon  it,  and  having  four  small  holes 
in  its-side,  corresponding  with  the  pins  in  the  ratchet  31 ;  this  stud 
33,  also  carries,  at  its  outer  extremit}^,  a  small  pinion  35,  which 
is  driven  by  the  spur-wheel  33,  upon  the  shaft  of  the  taking  up 
wheel  28. 

Thus  it  will  be  evident,  to  persons  conversant  with  power  loom 
weaving,  that  as  the  lay  vibrates  and  beats  up  the  cloth  ;  and  as 
long  as  the  weft  thread  is  put  in.  and  the  cloth  sufficiently  beaten 
up,  the  taking  up  motion  28,  will  cause  the  pinion  35,  to  drive  the 
stud  and  ratchet  round  ;  but,  in  the  event  of  the  weft  not  entering 
the  cloth,  and  the  cloth  has  not  been  produced,  the  lay  will  not 


FIGURED   WEAVING. 


445 


Fig.  217, 


advance  sufficiently  to  drive  out  the  click  30,  and  ratchet  31,  which 
wheel  will  now  overtake  the  smaller  ratchet,  and  as  they  are  always 
held  together  by  a  spring  behind  the  pins  32,  will  immediately 
enter  the  holes  in  the  ratchet  wheels  34,  and  thus  vibrate  the  rod 
39,  which  slides  the  horizontal  bar  40,  before  the  lever  41,  (Fig. 
212)  and  thus  throw  the  strap  from  off  the  driving  pulley.  The 
horizontal  sliding  bar  40.  now  returns  by  means  of  the  side  mo- 
tion of  the  setting  off  lever  41,  and  thus  releases  the  pins  from 
the  holes.  In  the  two  small  ratchet  wheels  there  is  a  catch-piece 
42,  upon  the  rod  39  ;  this  catch-piece,  as  it  returns,  pushes  the 
click  lever  43,  and  click  44,  onwards,  and  just  advances  the  smaller 
ratchet  wheel  one  tooth,  in  order  to  set  the  holes  free  of  the  pins, 
and  thus  be  ready  to  start  the  loom  again. 

Fig,  216,  represents  a  detatched  and  enlarged  view  of  one  of  the 
tappet  plates,  with  its  tappets  or  bowls,  moveable  in  the  concentric 
mortices  ;  and  Fig.  217,  represents  a  modification  of  the  mode  of 
lifting  the  shuttle  boxes,  and  is  here  shown  as  capable  of  lifting  and 
sustaining  five  boxes. 

The  apparatus  used  for  working  the  Jacquard  machinery,  shown 
in  Figs  212,  213  and  214,  answers  the  piupose  extremely  well  on 
this  kind  of  loom.  That  part  of  the  bar  or  rod  20,  wliich  passes 
through  the  warp,  should  be  made  flat  and  with  round  edges,  and 
well  pohshed,  so  as  to  prevent    strain   or    friction  on  the  threads 


446  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

during  the  operation  of  weaving.  To  prevent  confusion,  we  have 
not  represented  in  these  drawings  the  jacks  or  coupers  which  sup- 
port the  headles  c,  c  ;  but  any  practical  weaver  of  figured  goods,  as 
a  matter  of  course,  understands  that  part  of  a  loom. 

The  reader  will  not  fail  to  perceive,  in  Fig.  212,  a  beautiful  repre- 
sentation of  an  embalming  scene,  as  practised  by  the  ancient  Egyp- 
tians. This  operation  was  performed  on  those  men  who  had  dis- 
tinguished themselves  by  their  achievements  in  their  country's 
cause ;  and,  as  a  further  token  of  respect,  sometimes  tlieir  biains 
were  picked  out  (as  in  the  present  instance)  and  carefully  preserved 
at  the  expense  of  the  Government.  For  the  drawing  of  this  re- 
markable scene,  we  are  indebted  to  our  old  friend,  Alexis  Kersive- 
nus,  who  informs  us,  that  the  dead  gentleman,  on  whose  cranium 
the  physicians  are  at  work,  was  the  first  person,  in  Egypt,  who  suc- 
ceeded in  weaving  a  correct  representation  of  the  tv.^elve  signs  of 
the  zodiac. 

Erastus  B.  Bigelow,  Esq.  of  Lowell,  Mass.,  obtained  a  patent, 
30th  May,  1842,  ^^for  certain  imj)rovements  in  the  manner  of 
mounting  the  harness,  and  loorking  the  sajne,  in  the  loom  for 
weaving  figured  fabrics^  such  as  are  coinmonly  known  under  the 
names  of  imperial  or  French  quilts,  and  imperial  petticoat 
rnhes.^^ 

The  specification  of  this  patent  is  of  enormous  length,  full  of 
useless  repetition,  and  the  figures  which  accompany  it,  cover  three 
large  sheets  of  drawing  paper.  For  this  specification  and  draw- 
ings if  we  recollect  rightly,  we  paid  the  Commissioner  of  patents 
(H.  L.  EUsworth)  at  Washington,  the  sum  of  $17.50.*  The  pa- 
tentee, in  summing  up  his  claims,  says  : 

"  Having  thus  fully  described  the  nature  of  my  improvements,  in 
the  loom  for  vreaving  counterpanes,  and  other  figured  articles,  and 
having  also,  set  forth  several  different  modifications  thereof,  and 
particidarly  in  the  manner  of  forming  and  arranging  the  cams, 
on  the  cam  shafts,  by  which  the  required  motion  is  given  to  the 
respective  treadles,  so  as  to  correspond  in  their  action  \yth  tlie  ar- 
rangements made  in  the  other  parts  of  the  loom,  it  is  to  be  under- 
stood that  /  do  not  claim,  nor  do  I  intend  to  limit  tnysclf  to  the 
particular  arrangement  of  the  cams  and  treadles,  these  not  con- 
stituting a  distinguishing  or  an  essential  feature  of  m-y  im- 

*  We  did  not  receive  the  specification  and  drawings  of  this  loom  in  time  to 
insert  them  in  the  proper  part  of  this  Work ;  but  we  expect  to  have  another 
opportunity  soon  of  laying  them  before  the  public. 


FIGURED    WEAVING.  447 

provements ;  these  consisting  mainly,  i}i  the  mounting  of  the 
loo?n  and  of  tying-  up  the  harness,  so  as  to  admit  of  the  employ- 
ment of  one,  or  rnore,  moveable  harness-boards,  and  of  one,  or 
more,  leaves  of  headles,  and  of  the  Jacqnard  Machine  in  the 
power  loom.  By  this  arrangement  1  am  enabled  to  produce  a  free 
and  open  shed  of  the  warp,  and  to  allow  one  part,  or  shed,  thereof 
to  descend  ivhilst  the  other  is  rising.  What  I  claim,  therefore,  as 
constituting  my  ijiventions,  and  which  I  desire  to  secure  by  Let- 
ters Patent,  is  the  within  described  manners  or  modes  of  mounting 
the  loom,  and  tying  up  the  harness,  and  of  working  the  same,  in 
which,  under  its  various  modifications,  I  combine  a  moveable  har- 
ness-board, or  boards,  with  one,  or  more,  leaves  of  headles,  or 
harness,  and  xoith  the  Jacquard  Machine  in  the  povjer  loom,  (see 
Figs.  212  to  217;)  such  arrangement  and  combination  being  sub- 
stantially the  same  with  that  herein  described." 

The  loom  represented  at  Figs.  212  to  217  was  patented  three 
years  prior  to  Mr.  Bigelow's  loom  ;  and  the  invention  of  it  took  place 
nearly  five  years  before  the  date  of  the  patent. 

The  Jacquard  machine  used  by  Mr.  Bigelow  is  of  the  old  con- 
struction, having  trap-boards  and  knot-cords  ;  and  the  patentee 
says  in  his  specification,  "  One  of  the  trap-boards  is  allowed  to 
descend  whilst  the  other  rises,  without  disturbing  the  action  of 
the  knot-cords,  and  I  thereby  counteract  the  unequal  action  of  the 
harness  iceights  upon  the  cams  by  which  they  are  raised." 

This  action  of  the  trap-boards  is  the  invention  of  James  Cross, 
of  Paisley,  Scotland  ;  and  which  he  first  brought  into  notice  about 
the  year  1818;  it  is  known  by  the  name  of  "Cross's  counterpoise 
harness  ;"  the  principle  of  which  is,  that  one  trap-board  rises  while 
the  other  is  sinking.  Mr.  Cross's  loom  is  described  at  page  161, 
and  represented  at  Figs.  171  to  179;  and  by  examining  it  atten- 
tively, the  reader  will  perceive  that  the  counterpoise  trap-boards,  on 
which  Mr.  Bigelow  lays  the  greatest  stress,  (in  his  specification)  are 
there  shown  to  perfection.  The  raising  and  lowering  of  the  har- 
ness-boards below,  so  as  to  govern  the  shedding  of  the  warps,  cor- 
responding to  the  action  of  the  trap-boards  above,  is  entirely  de- 
pendent on  the  principle  of  Mr.  Cross's  machine.  The  practical 
weaver  of  figured  textures,  will  at  once  perceive  the  nature  of  these 
claims  of  Mr.  Bigelow.    (see  page  479.) 

The  patentee  describes,  at  great  length,  various  forms  of  cams, 
which  are  also  represented  in  his  drawings  ;  and  by  means  of  these 
cams,  he  tells  us,  the  necessary  motions  are  communicated  to  the 
headles,  as  well  as  to  the  Jacquard.      Twenty  different  figures  of 


448  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

these  cams  are  given,  illustrative  of  their  various  forms  and  the  posi- 
tions which  we  are  told  they  assume  during  the  operation  of  the 
loom.  The  cam-wheel  for  working  the  Jacquard  corresponds  in 
every  respect  to  that  marked  D  D',  in  Tompkins  and  Gilroy's 
loom,  Fig.  205  ;  the  cams  for  working  the  headles,  «fcc.  are  also  the 
same. 

It  will  be  observed  that  Mr.  Bigelow.  in  summing  up  his  claims, 
says,  in  reference  to  all  these,  that  they  do  not  constitute  '"a  dis- 
tinguishing or  an  essential  feature"  of  liis  improvements,  but  re- 
marks, that  these  consist  "  mainly  in  the  mounting  of  the  loom, 
and  of  tying  up  the  harness,  so  as  to  admit  of  the  employment  of 
one.  or  more,  moveable  harness-boards,  and  of  one.  or  more,  leaves 
of  headles.  and  of  the  Jacquard  machine  in  the  power  loom."  (See 
Gilroy's  loom  mountings  or  tie-ups,  Examples  Nos.  1  to  10.) 

It  appears  somewhat  strange  to  us,  tliat  this  gentleman  should 
fill  three-fourths  of  his  specification  in  describing  these  wheels 
and  cams,  and  give  so  many  different  figures  of  them  in  his  draw- 
ings ;  and  after  all  this  state,  that  they  are  not  "■'  essentiaV^  to  the 
working  of  his  loom.  Now  the  truth  is,  without  these,  the  loom 
would  not  be  worth  a  stiver,  because  it  could  not  produce  the  stuffs 
referred  to  in  the  specification  at  all.  as  any  one  may  perceive  by 
looking  at  the  specification  and  drawings  of  this  patent,  lodged  at 
Washington. 

It  has  been  already  stated,  that  3Ir.  Bigelow  claims  "the  employ- 
ment of  one  or  more  leaves  of  headles,  and  of  the  Jacquard  ma- 
chine in  the  power  loom;"  which  is  funny  enough.  By  reference 
to  Figs.  203  and  204,  it  will  be  perceived  that  Tompkins  and  Gil- 
roy's loom  has  eight  leaves  of  headles,  besides  Jacquard  machine- 
ry ;  and  yet  their  patent  is  dated  May  9th,  1835,  whereas,  Mr. 
Bigelow's'is  dated  May,  1842:  (see  also  Figs.  212,  213,  and  214.) 

Some  men  admire  the  heights  of  mountains,  the  huge  waves  of 
the  sea,  the  steep  fall  of  rivers,  the  compass  of  the  ocean,  and  the 
circuit  of  the  stars,  but  as  for  us,  we  shall  for  the  present  content 
ourself  v.ith  simply  noticing  a  loom  for  weaving  coach  lace,  Brus- 
sels carpeting,  and  other  fabrics  with  looped  surfaces  invented  by 
Thomas  Thompson,  a  subject  of  Great  Britain,  and  which  inven- 
tion has  been  Secured  by  Letters  Patent.  By  the  aid  of  this  loom, 
Mr.  T.  is  enabled  to  manufacture  coach  lace  at  the  cost  of  one 
penny  farthing  per  yard,  wliich  formerly  cost  four  pence  half 
penny,  exhibiting  the  astounding  difference  in  favour  of  Mr. 
Thompson's  machine,  over  every  previous  machine,  of  three  pence 
farthing  per  yard.     To  this  manufacture  he  has  added  the  Brussels 


FIGURED    WEAVING.  449 

carpet,  velvet,  &c.,  which  we  are  assured  is  produced  with  the  most 
surprising  velocity.  "  It  is  truly  astonishing  to  see  the  inarch  of 
scienct'.^^ 

Mr.  Thompson's  ingenious  loom  is  described  in  the  London  Jour- 
nal of  Arts  and  Sciences,  conjoined  series  No.  CL.  vol.  XXIV,  and 
may  be  procured  on  application  to  Messrs.  Newton  6c  Son  66  Chan- 
cery Lane,  London. 

As  we  intend  to  give  a  complete  description  of  this  machine,  in 
our  work  on  carpet  weaving  by  power,  no  farther  notice  need  be 
taken  of  it  in  this  place. 

Miles  Berry,  (of  the  firm  of  Newton  and  Berry,  patent  agents, 
66  Chancery-lane,  London,)  obtained  a  patent  in  August,  1838,  for 
certain  improvements  in  looms  for  producing  metalhc  tissues,  and 
also  improvements  in  such  tissues,  applicable  to  the  making  of  but- 
tons, epaulettes,  tassels,  and  other  purposes,  for  which  gold  and 
silver  lace  or  braiding  is  commonly  employed,  and  to  the  making  of 
imitations  of  jewellery  and  other  fancy  articles. 

These  improvements  consist,  in  weaving  or  producing  ornamen- 
tal metallic  tissues  or  fabrics  of  wire  applicable  to  various  useful 
purposes,  for  which  gold  and  silver  lace  is  commonly  used  ;  as  for 
instance,  in  the  making  of  different  articles  of  ornamental  dress, 
epaulettes,  bands,  sashes,  bindings,  trimmings,  tassels,  buttons,  and 
various  other  purposes  where  gold  and  silver  lace  is  now  applied, 
also  to  the  covering  of  boxes,  books,  card  cases,  and  covering  or 
forming  various  imitations  of  jewellery,  and  other  fancy  articles ; 
and  consist  in  weaving,  making,  or  forming,  such  ornamental 
metallic  tissues,  entirely  of  strands  of  wire,  either  of  gold,  silver,  sil- 
ver-gilt, copper-gilt  or  other  metal,  or  mixtures  of  metal,  which 
wires  are  woven  into  a  tissue  or  fabric,  having  patterns  or  ornamen- 
tal devices  thereon,  by  any  suitable  figuring  machinery,  such  orna- 
mental metallic  tissues  being  composed  entirely  of  metal,  in  contra- 
distinction to  the  ordinary  gold  and  silver  lace,  and  have  all  the 
variety  of  design  or  pattern,  and  brilliancy  of  appearance  of  the 
finest  figured  or  brocaded  silk,  or  other  fabric,  without  their  perish- 
able qualities  ;  and  are  capable  of  being  cleaned  by  boihngor  wash- 
ing with  water,  or  immersing  in  acid  solution,  and  gilded  or  silvered 
or  even  soldered  together  after  they  have  been  woven, — which  can- 
not be  done  with  tissues  having  silk,  cotton,  or  other  threads,  inter- 
woven in  the  fabric. 

The  improvements  in  the  looms  for  weaving  such  tissue  or  fabrics, 
being  the  application  and  adaptation  of  the  well  known  Jacquard 

57 


450  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

mechanism  or  apparatus  for  acting  upon  the  warp  threads  or 
wires,  to  produce  the  figure  or  design,  together  with  suitable  mechan- 
ism, whereby  the  same  is  made  or  rendered  more  apphcable  to  the 
loom  for  this  purpose  ;  for  when  the  Jacquard  apparatus  is  applied 
in  the  ordinary  manner  (in  hand  looms)  the  abrupt  or  sudden  ac- 
tion caused  by  the  treadles  through  the  Jacquard  upon  the  warps, 
and  also  their  great  extent  of  opening  or  separating  to  allow  the 
shuttle  to  pass,  is  liable  to  break  the  metalhc  strands,  they  not  be- 
ing so  elastic  or  capable  of  yielding  longitudinally  as  warps  of  silk 
or  twisted  fibrous  material,  and  therefore  a  means  of  remedying  this 
evil  is  adapted  with  the  Jacquard  to  the  loom  ;  the  rising  motion  of 
the  head-board  or  top  of  the  Jacquard  apparatus,  being  first  met  by 
an  elastic  resistance,  and  then  stayed  ai  the  proper  distance  by  an 
adjustable  stop-piece. 

It  should  be  here  remarked,  that  solid  gold  and  silver,  and  gilt 
wire,  has  been  heretofore  applied  in  the  making  of  gold  and  silver 
lace ;  but  it  has  only  been  used  as  weft  threads,  interwoven  with 
M^arps,  consisting  of  threads  of  silk  or  fibrous  material,  such  warps 
being  covered,  or  nearly  so,  by  the  picks  of  metal  weft,  and  having 
a  small  or  finer  binding  warp  thread  of  silk  or  fibrous  material  to 
secure  such  metal  weft  in  parts  where  it  floats  over  several  threads 
to  produce  the  figure  or  design  on  the  face  of  the  fabric ;  and 
such  combination  of  metal,  and  silk  or  fibrous  material,  has  here- 
tofore, only  been  woven  in  an  ordinary  figuring  loom  without  the 
Jacquard  apparatus ;  such  lace  has  all  the  disadvantages  of  the 
common  gold  and  silver  lace,  composed  entirely  of  silk  or  fibrous 
material,  both  warp  and  weft  being  covered  by  a  thin  coating 
of  metal  wound  or  coiled  around  tliem.  It  should  also  be  ob- 
served, that  a  description  of  metallic  tissue  has  heretofore  been  wo- 
ven in  ordinary  looms  of  the  simplest  construction,  that  is,  without 
the  means  of  producing  figures  or  designs :  but  this  has  been  done 
only  in  broad-pieces  of  plain  fabric,  the  warp  and  weft  regularly  in- 
terweaving with  one  another  at  each  pick  of  the  weft  or  change  of 
the  pattern  or  figure  ;  which  woven  wire  work  or  fabric  is  applica- 
ble to  the  making  of  window-blinds,  paper  strainers,  sieves,  screens, 
fire  guards,  and  other  purposes,  where  the  same  may  be  used. 

In  order  to  apply  this  invention  with  good  eflTect,  and  produce  the 
ornamental  tissues  with  the  best  advantage,  the  metalhc  strands  or 
wire  should  be  carefully  annealed  by  heating  the  same,  and  allow- 
ing it  to  cool  gradually,  in  order  to  destroy  the  brittleness  caused  in 
the  drawing  of  the  wire,  and  to  render  it  as  pliant  as  possible,  so 
that  the  metalhc  strands  may  work  well  with  the  Jacquard  appara- 


FIGURED    WEAVING.  451 

tus.     The  following  means  or  method  of  effecting  this  object  should 
be  pursued : — 

The  wire  is  first  wound  upon  liollow  metal  bobbins  ;  into  the  hol- 
low part  or  centre  of  these  bobbins  are  to  be  placed  red  hot  pieces 
of  metal,  whereby  the  wire  will  be  heated  on  the  bobbins,  and  then 
allowed  gradually  to  get  cold.  In  order  to  preserve  the  polish  of  the 
wire,  and  not  to  injure  its  colour,  the  bobbins  should  be  of  different 
metals,  according  to  the  different  metal  wire  to  be  operated  upon  ; 
for  instance,  when  copper  wire  is  to  be  used,  the  bobbin  should  be 
formed  of  copper ;  if  the  wire  is  silver,  or  silver  gilt,  or  copper  gilt, 
the  bobbin  should  be  formed  of  silver,  and  if  the  wire  is  gold,  the 
bobbins  should  of  course  also  be  of  gold*  This  process  of  anneal- 
ing, as  well  as  the  means  employed,  may  be  varied  according  to  cir- 
cumstances, and  the  kind  of  metal  to  be  operated  upon ;  or  the 
wire  or  metallic  strands  may  be  annealed  in  any  other  convenient 
way  ;  but  the  above  described  process  prevents  the  wire  being  in- 
jured by  heat,  and  gives  it  all  the  pliancy  desired. 

First,  begin  by  warping  the  annealed  metallic  strands  or  wires,  by 
six  at  a  time,  on  the  ordinary  warping  mill,  each  wire  being  sup- 
plied from  a  bobbin,  placed  on  a  creel  in  the  same  manner  as  in  the 
ordinary  method  of  warping  cotton,  silk,  or  other  threads,  (see 
Figs.  3,  4  and  5.)  These  metallic  strands  are  to  be  fastened,  by 
packs  of  25  together,  on  the  warp  beam  of  the  loom,  taking  care 
they  are  all  equally  distended.  When  this  is  done,  the  beam  is  to 
be  turned  round,  and  all  the  warp  threads  wound  evenly  thereon. 
It  is  requisite,  at  each  revolution  of  the  roller,  to  place  a  strip  of  card- 
board, or  piece  of  stiff  paper  or  other  material,  upon  the  metallic 
strands,  wound  upon  the  l)eam,  in  order  to  prevent  them  from  get- 
ting entangled  one  with  the  other ;  or  a  continuous  sheet  of  card- 
board, paper,  or  cloth,  may  be  wound  on  with  the  strands  for  this 
purpose.  This  precaution  is  very  necessary,  as  otherwise  the  threads 
would  bind  one  with  another,  and  prevent  them  unwinding  or 
drawing  off  regularly,  during  the  operation  of  weaving,  and  there- 
by become  broken.  A  sufficient  length  of  the  metallic  warp  must 
be  left  unwound,  to  allow  of  their  being  passed  through  the  headles 
and  the  reed  : — this  is  done  in  the  same  way  as  with  cotton  or  silk 
warps  :  the  workman,  however,  must  be  careful  not  to  let  any  of  the 
strands  escape  ;  for,  if  he  does  so,  the  wire  springing  back  would 
coil  up  on  itself,  and  loop  into  a  kind  of  knot, — and  consequently 

*  None  but  workmen  of  the  best  character  are  employed  in  this  manufac- 
ture, strict  honesty  being  indispensable. 


452  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING, 

be  injured.  "When  this  is  the  case,  the  injured  wire  must  be  re- 
placed by  another,  to  be  taken  from  an  extra  spool  or  bobbin  placed 
at  the  back  of  the  loom ;  and  every  time  a  metallic  strand  breaks, 
duriuff  the  weaving  of  the  tissue,  it  must  be  replaced  by  a  fresh  one, 
taken  from  an  extra  bobbin,  and  the  part  of  the  broken  strand  re- 
maining on  the  warp  beam  conducted  out  of  the  way  by  passing 
it  over  a  small  pulley,  and  kept,  by  means  of  a  weight  attached  to 
it.  from  intermixing  with  the  other  or  perfect  threads.  When  all 
the  threads  are  passed  through  the  headles  and  the  reed,  they  are 
to  be  collected,  in  packs  of  25,  and  fastened  to  the  cloth  roller,  the 
strands  being  distended  equally  thereon.  These  prehminary  opera- 
tions being  performed,  the  loom  is  ready  for  working. 

The  shuttle  employed  is  similar  to  that  used  in  the  weaving  of 
silk,  and  is  supplied  with  a  bobbin  containing  the  metalhc  weft 
strands.  The  shuttle  should,  however,  be  rather  heavy,  as  instead 
of  governing  the  delivery  of  the  weft,  it  would  then  be  governed  by 
it,  and  would  spring  back  and  cause  injury  to  the  work.  The  first 
few  courses  of  the  shuttle  serve  to  regulate  the  position  of  the 
threads,  as  in  ordinary  weaving,  and  for  that  purpose  any  kind  of 
weft  may  be  used  instead  of  metallic  wires. 

The  operation  of  weaving  is  effected  in  precisely  the  same  way 
as  when  working  with  silk  or  other  material :  care  should,  how- 
ever, be  taken  that  the  weft  strands  of  wire  be  finer  than  those  of 
the  warp. 

Tissues,  composed  of  copper  wire,  may  be  woven  in  their  natural 
colour,  and  afterwards  gilded  or  silvered  ;  or  this  may  be  done  pre- 
vious to  the  weaving,  as  thought  desirable. 

Silver  tissue  requires  much  less  care  in  the  course  of  fabrication 
than  wire  gilt  or  silvered,  as  with  the  latter,  care  must  be  taken  not 
to  injure  the  surface ;  the  tissue,  as  it  is  woven,  should  be  covered 
with  a  cloth. 

These  metallic  tissues  may  be  applied  to  a  great  variety  of  articles 
and  purposes,  and.  by  their  being  composed  entirely  of  metal,  may 
be  cut  into  any  number  of  parts  or  forms,  and  attached  to  each 
other,  or  to  other  metal  pieces,  by  soldering,  or  by  the  usual  mode  of 
joining  various  articles  of  jewellery  and  fancy  work.  They  may  be 
used  for  the  top  parts  and  binding  of  epaulettes,  where  gold  and 
silver  lace  is  nov\-  employed :  for  covering  the  heads  of  tassels  ;  co- 
vering buttons  ;  and  various  fancy  articles  ;  and  when  woven  in 
narrow  breadths,  after  the  manner  of  gold  and  silver  lace,  galloons, 
or  binding,  they  may  be  used  for  hat  and  other  bands,  bindings, 
and  trimmings  for  various  purposes. 


FIGURED    WEAVING.  453 

The  metallic  tissues,  composed  of  silver  wire,  are  very  readily 
cleaned  with  a  solution  of  water  and  sulphuric  acid — the  strength 
or  portion  of  acid  is  regulated  according  to  the  degree  of  oxidation 
of  the  metallic  tissues ;  or  they  may  be  cleaned  in  any  other  way 
that  delicate  metal  articles  are  usually  cleaned.  Those  articles 
which  have  become  discoloured  by  exposure  to  the  atmosphere,  the 
effect  of  smoke,  or  other  causes,  may  be  dipped  in  acid  solution,  and 
their  primitive  freshness  restored. 

Glass  Weaving. — M.  Dubus  Bonnel,  of  Lille,  has  discovered  a 
method  of  making  a  cloth  of  glass,  which  is  perfectly  flexible,  and 
may  be  applied  to  the  hanging  of  rooms  and  other  purposes.  This 
cloth  is  extremely  beautiful ;  and  from  the  manner  in  which  it  re- 
flects the  light,  it  surpasses  in  brilliancy  every  thing  that  has  ever 
been  attempted  with  silk,  even  when  combined  with  gold  and  silver. 
Some  specimens  of  this  new  manufacture  have  been  exliibited  in 
the  Passage  de  I'Opera,  in  Paris ;  and  the  Queen  of  the  French 
was  so  pleased  with  them,  that  she  ordered  a  gold  medal  to  be  sent 
to  the  inventor.  The  following  passage  is  extracted  from  a  French 
paper: — "When  we  figure  to  ourselves  an  apartment  decorated 
with  cloth  of  glass,  and  resplendent  with  lights,  we  must  be  con- 
vinced that  it  will  equal  in  brilliancy  all  that  it  is  possible  for  the 
imagination  to  conceive  ;  it  will  realize,  in  a  word,  the  wonders  of 
the  enchanted  palaces  of  the  Arabian  Tales.  The  lights  flashing 
from  the  polished  surface  of  the  glass,  to  which  any  colours  or  shade 
may  be  given,  will  make  the  room  have  the  appearance  of  an  apart- 
ment of  pearls,  mother-of-pearl,  or  diamonds,  or  composed  of  garnets, 
sapphires,  topazes,  rubies,  emeralds,  amethysts,  (fcc,  or,  in  short,  of 
all  those  precious  stones  united  and  combined  in  a  thousand  ways, 
and  formed  into  stars,  rosettes,  boquets,  garlands,  festoons,  and 
graceful  undulations,  vaiied  almost  to  infinity." — UEcho  du  Monde 
Savant,  ^c.  No.  58,  Feb.  15,  1837.) 

The  warp  is  composed  of  silk,  and  forms  the  body  and  ground- 
work, on  which  the  pattern  in  glass  appears,  as  effected  by  the  weft. 
The  requisite  flexibility  of  glass  thread  for  manufacturing  purposes 
is  to  be  ascribed  to  its  extreme  fineness,  as  not  less  than  50  or  60 
of  the  original  threads  (produced  by  steam-engine  power)  are  re- 
quired to  form  one  thread  of  the  weft.  The  process  is  slow ;  as  not 
more  than  a  yard  can  be  manufactured  in  12  hours.  The  work, 
however,  as  already  observed,  is  extremely  beautiful,  and  coni[)ara- 
tively  cheap,  inasmuch  as  no  similar  stuff  where  bullion  is  really 
introduced  can  be  purchased  for  any  thing  hke  the  price  at  which 
this  is  sold  ;  added  to  this,  it  is,  eb  far  as  the  glass  is  concerned,  im- 


454  THE    ART    OP    WEAVING. 

perishable.  Glass  is  more  durable  than  either  gold  or  silver,  and, 
besides,  possesses  the  advantage  of  never  tarnishing.  Some  admi- 
rable specimens  of  this  kind  of  cloth  may  also  be  seen  at  the  Poly- 
technic Institution,  Regent  street,  London,  especially  two  patterns 
of  silver  on  a  blue  and  red  ground,  and  another  of  gold  on  crimson.* 
The  Jacquard  by  which  it  is  woven  may  also  be  seen  at  the 
same  estabhshment ; — this  Jacquard  is  exactly  like  that  represented 
at  Figs.  93  to  98,  and  described  at  page  192. 

The  inventor  of  this  manufacture  (M.  Bonnel)  entered  into  an 
arrangement  with  Colonel  Calvert,  of  London,  for  the  purpose  of 
securing  patents  in  Great  Britain,  for  the  method  of  rendering  the 
glass  thread  pliable,  as  well  as  of  giving  it  any  shade  of  colour  re- 
quired. The  Colonel  obtained  patents  accordingly  in  the  year 
1837,  and  soon  after  applied  to  us  for  an  introduction  to  a  person 
likely  to  purchase  them,  and  also  to  construct  a  few  looms,  for  the 
purpose  of  exhibiting  the  new  manufacture  on  a  small  scale  in  the 
first  instance,  to  show  the  advantages  of  it.  We  immediately  in- 
troduced him  to  Mr.  WiUiam  Webb  (of  the  firm  of  James  Jacquier 
&  Co.,  loom-builders.  No.  1,  Wood  street,  cor.  of  Church,  Spital- 
fields.)  This  gentleman,  having  the  entire  confidence  of  the  Eng- 
lish manufacturers,  both  as  regards  strict  integrity  of  character  and 
as  possessing  a  thorough  practical  knowledge  of  every  species  of 
figured  weaving,  was,  in  a  short  time,  enabled  to  meet  the  Colonel's 
wishes.  Mr.  Williams  offered  to  purchase  the  patents,  provided 
that  Mr.  Webb  would  undertake  to  fit  up  suitable  looms  for  weav- 
ing the  stuff,  which  the  last  named  gentleman  agreed  to  do ;  and 
accordingly  the  patents  were  purchased  from  the  Colonel  for  5000Z. 
For  our  trouble  in  this  affair,  and  many  other  services  besides,  we 
have  never  received  from  the  Colonel  so  much  as  a  polite  acknow- 
ledgement. Had  we  not  signed  the  "  temperance  pledge"  we  might 
have  insisted  on  something  to  drink.  Mr.  Webb,  for  his  services, 
obtained  the  sum  of  5/.;  while  his  lost  time  was  at  least  worth  lOOZ. 

Letters  patent  were  granted  to  us  in  England,  Ireland,  Scotland, 
France,  Belgium,  Prussia  and  the  United  States  of  America,  for  a 
loom  for  weaving  figured  goods  of  almost  every  description,  on  the 
full  harness  principle  without  either  headles  or  treadles.  The  Eng- 
lish patent  bears  date  12th  May,  1839,  and  was  enrolled  in  Her 
Majesty's  High  Court  of   Chancery,  Chancery  lane,  London,  12th 


*  Some  beautiful  specimens  of  this  kind  of  cloth  have  lately  been  presented 
to  the  Commissioner  of  Patents  at  Washington,  for  public  exhibition  in  the 
Patent  Office  in  that  city. 


FIGURED    WEAVING.  455 

November,  in  the  same  year.  The  English,  Irish,  and  Scotch  pa- 
tents are  in  the  name  of  Moses  Poole,  Esq.,  (of  the  firm  of  Poole 
and  Garpmael,  of  the  Patent  Office,  London ;)  the  French  in  the 
name  of  Charles  Cunningham,  Esq.  (father-in-law  of  Charles  La- 
fitte,  of  the  firm  of  Lafitte,  Blount  &  Co..  bankers,  Paris ;)  the  Bel- 
gian in  the  name  of  Henry  Truflfaut ;  the  Prussian  in  the  name  of 
Platzhoff  and  Haenal,  silk  manufacturers,  Bruggen,  near  Crefeld ; 
and  the  American  in  the  name  of  Jeremiah  Wilbur,  Esq.*  (of  the 
firm  of  Masters,  Markoe  &.  Co.,  merchants.  New  York.)  The  last 
named  patent  is  dated  March  12th,  1842,  but  has  only  14  years  to 
run  from  the  date  of  the  English  one  above  named. 

Fig.  218,  represents  a  front  elevation  of  this  improved  loom. 
Fig.  219,  a  side  elevation. 
Fig.  220,  a  longitudinal  vertical  section. 
Fig.  221,  a  plan  of  a  part  of  the  loom. 

Fig.  222,  a  front  view  of  the  Jacquard  cylinder  and  frame  which 
carries  it,  showing  the  card  protectors. 

Fig.  223,  is  a  detached  section  of  the  lay,  (fcc,  showing  a  front 
and  side  view  of  the  weft  puller  or  tightener. 
Fig.  224,  shuttle. 

Fig.  225,  the  slide  of  the  stop  motion  detached. 
On  the  different  Figs,  of  these  drawings,  the  letters  of  reference 
are  the  same. 

a  a,  the  frame  of  the  loom  ;  b,  the  lay;  c,  (Fig.  218)  the  reed. 
The  take-up  motion  rollers  d  d,  placed  one  above  the  other  just  un- 
der the  breast-beam,  are  geared  together  by  the  cog  wheels  d\ 
(Fig.  218 ;)  the  upper  take-up  roller  is  pressed  down  by  a  lever  and 
weight  d^,  (Figs.  219,  220  and  221 ;)  on  the  axis  of  the  lower  one 
is  a  pulley  d"^,  (Fig.  219)  from  which  a  band  or  belt  e^,  passes  down 
to  a  similar  pulley  e"^,  on  the  cloth  roller  e,  (Fig.  220 ;)  this  band  is 
tightened  with  more  or  less  force  by  the  pressure  of  the  pulley  e', 
(Fig.  219)  attached  by  a  stud  to  a  bent  lever  e%  governed  by  a 
moveable  weight.  /,  (Figs.  220  and  221)  is  a  horizontal  shaft  on 
the  outside  of  the  frame,  placed  at  right  angles  to,  and  on  a  level 
with  the  cam  shaft,  on  the  end  of  which  is  a  bevel  wheel  /',  (Figs. 
218  and  221)  meshing  into  the  bevel  wheel  f",  on  the  shaft  /,  (it 
will  be  perceived  that  by  changing  the  relative  size  of  these  wheels 
difTerent  relative  velocities  will  be  given  to  the  shafts ;)  on  the  for- 

*  George  D.  Baldwin,  merchant,  35  Spruce-street,  New  York,  has  the  sole 
management  of  our  patents  in  the  United  States  of  America;  to  whom  all 
communications  on  the  subject  must  be  addressed. 


456  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

ward  end  of  the  shaft  /,  is  a  worm  wheel  /^j  (Fig.  221)  working" 
into  a  slud-wheel  g^  on  which  is  a  pinion  g\  meshing  into  a  cog- 
wheel ^^,  on  the  axis  of  the  lower  take-vip  roller  d.  i  i,  are  picker 
sticks  ;  j,  (Fig.  219)  are  the  shuttle-levers  or  treadles,  by  which  the 
picker-sticks  i  i,  are  moved ;  k,  are  the  cams  to  put  the  shuttle- 
levers  in  motion  (one  at  each  side  of  the  loom  ;)  m,  fast  and  loose 
pulleys  driven  by  a  belt  in  the  usual  way  ;  n,  warp  beam  ;  o.  whip- 
roller — this  roller  is  suspended  on  the  top  of  two  levers  o',  havmg 
their  fulcra  ato^,  (Figs.  219  and  220)  and  extending  down  nearly 
perpendicular  ;  the  ends  of  these  levers  rest  against  tops  o^,  and 
are  held  there  by  springs  o^  ;  this  allows  the  warp  to  give  way  at 
€very  beat  of  the  lay,  recovering  its  first  position  when  the  lay  re- 
tires from  the  cloth.  The  warp-beam  w,  is  surrounded  at  each  end 
by  the  usual  friction  strap,  to  each  of  which  is  appended  a  lever  p, 
having  its  fulcrum  at  p',  and  running  under  the  warp-beam  to- 
wards the  front  of  the  loom  ;  on  this  lever  is  a  sliding  weight  p^,  to 
which  is  attached  a  connecting  rod  p^ ;  these  rods  have  eyes  in 
their  forward  ends,  in  which  the  journals  of  a  horizontal  roller  q, 
turn ;  /?^,  (see  Fig.  221)  are  springs  attached  to  the  rods  p^,  which 
draw  them  forward  and  bring  the  roller  q,  against  the  cloth  roller  e, 
and  the  weight  p~,  to  the  extreme  end  of  the  lever.  The  warp 
yarn  runs  from  the  beam  n,  over  the  roller  o,  through  the  harness 
and  reed  over  the  breast-beam  (which  in  this  loom  is  a  roller,  as 
shown  in  the  Figs  ;)  the  cloth  then  passes  down  inside  and  under 
the  rollers  d  d,  and  round  the  lower  one,  up  between,  then  over  the 
upper  one  and  down  to  the  cloth  roller  e,  (this  roller  is  clearly  shown 
in  Fig.  220.)  As  the  cloth  roller  increases  in  size  by  the  winding 
on  of  the  cloth,  the  roller  q,  is  pushed  back,  carrying  along  with  it 
the  rodp'^,  and  weight/?^,  thereby  lessening  the  tension  on  the  warp- 
beam,  as  the  roll  diminishes  ;  on  taking  a  "  cut"  from  the  clotli 
roller  the  rod  p^,  is  lengthened  by  means  of  the  coupling  at  jt?% 
(Fig.  220)  so  as  to  retain  the  weight  in  the  same  position  when  the 
cloth  is  taken  from  the  roller;  the  cloth  is  regularly  drawn  forward 
as  it  is  woven,  by  means  of  the  take-up  rollers,  connected  as  above 
described,  with  the  cam  shaft;  the  cloth  is  wound  on  the  cloth 
roller  e,  with  any  required  degree  of  tension,  as  fast  as  it  is  deliver- 
ed from  the  take-up  rollers  d  rf,  by  means  of  the  band  or  belt  e^,  and 
tightening  or  friction  pulley  e',  the  revolutions  of  this  roller  being 
regulated  by  the  quantity  of  cloth  given  out.  On  the  driving  shaft 
r,  (Fig.  221)  is  placed  an  eccentric  6',  surrounded  by  a  collar  to 
which  an  inflexible  rod  b^,  is  attached,  having  a  governing  screw 
b*  (Fig.  218)  to  regulate  its  length  ;  the  upper  end  of  this  rod  is 


218. 


y^^r.  219. 


Fin:  224. 


Hb:226 


I 


Y2P.220. 


Fia2  22. 


FIGURED    WEAVING.  457 

connected  with  the  Jacquard  lever  g^.  It  will  be  perceived  by  this 
arrangement  that  the  harness  leads,  weights,  &c.,  arc  worked  with 
the  greatest  precision  and  without  shock ;  but,  as  the  shed  in  this  case 
closes  down,  when  the  lay  has  been  brought  forward  half  the  beat, 
the  eccentric  above  described  could  not  be  used  on  some  kinds  of 
textures  to  advantage,  particularly  on  silk  goods,  but  for  another 
invention  which  we  call  the  "  weft  puller"  or  "  tightener,"  con- 
structed in  the  following  manner : — To  the  under  side  of  tlie  lay  is  at- 
tached an  iron  s,  (Fig.  223)  which  projects  forward  and  is  formed 
into  a  fulcrum,  on  which  turns  a  finger  or  lever  5' ;  this  finger  runs 
up  in  front  of  the  lay,  and  curves  back  lying  in  a  channel  cut 
across  the  race-board,  (one  channel  outside  of  each  selvage)  the  ex- 
treme end  curving  up,  at  or  behind  the  reed  ;  the  finger  is  held  in 
this  position  by  a  spring  s",  (Fig.  223)  attached  thereto  above  the 
fulcrum,  and  passing  under  the  lay ;  the  end  of  the  finger  below 
the  fulcrum  is  flattened  out,  and  a  short  rod  s^,  is  joined  to  it  (form- 
ing a  hinge)  so  as  to  vibrate  sideways  parallel  to  the  lay ;  this  is 
kept  in  a  vertical  position  by  the  spring  s*  ;  from  the  opposite  side 
projects  a  stud  s^  on  which  an  arm  s^,  from  the  protector  s~,  of  the 
stop  motion  rests  (this  is  connected  with  the  shuttle-box  and  is  of 
the  common  construction,  as  shown  in  Figs.  219  and  220  ;)  from 
the  front  upright  of  the  loom  is  extended  out  an  arm  v,  (Figs.  220  ; 
and  223)  under  the  breast  beam,  the  end  of  which  forms  a  fulcrum 
at  r',  for  the  lever  catch  v"^  (Fig.  223  ;)  this  lever,  at  its  lower  and 
forward  end,  is  bent  so  as  to  rest  on  the  arm  v,  and  is  held  down  to 
it  by  the  spring  v^ :  the  other  end  of  this  lever  is  bent  up  so  as  to 
come  in  contact  with  the  rod  s^,  when  the  lay  is  thrown  forward, 
carrying  the  finger  or  lever  5',  forv.'ard  of  the  lay,  and  pnsliing  the 
weft  thread  up  to  the  cloth  and  straightening  it  before  the  shed  de- 
scends ;  as  soon  as  the  rod  passes  over  the  catch,  the  spring  5-, 
(Fig.  223)  brings  it  into  place  again,  as  the  lay  returns,  the  lever 
v^,  is  depressed  by  the  rod  s^,  till  it  clears  it : — if  the  shuttle  does 
not  pass  entirely  into  the  box,  the  rod  s^  (which  is  secured  in  the 
protector  s' ,)  bears  down  on  the  stud  s^,  and  turns  the  rod  .s-^,  to  one 
side,  so  that  it  does  not  strike  the  lever  catch  t;"^,  and  the  finger  *', 
remains  at  rest  till  the  loom  stops,  thereby  preventing  the  damage 
that  might  be  caused  by  forcing  it  forward. 

The  Jacquard  in  its  general  construction  is  similar  to  that  repre- 
sented at  Figs.  93  to  98,  and  described  at  page  192,  except  in  the 
following  particulars  :  The  first  part  of  the  improvements  consist  in 
what  we  call  "  card  protectors."  Fig.  222  shows  a  front  view  of 
the  cvlinder  z,  with  its  pattern  cards,  (these  cards  are  hke  those  re- 

58 


45S  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

presented  at  Fig.  97.)  and  the  frame  6',  which  supports  it.  The 
card  protectors  (one  at  each  end  of  the  pattern  card)  are  marked  c, 
and  are  similar  to  the  press  d^  :  they  are  placed  1  of  an  inch  inside 
the  studs  or  knobs  «®  ;  the  feet  of  these  protectors  have  a  smooth 
Avire  on  their  under  edge,  (see  detached  part,  Fig.  222^)  to  prevent 
the  cards  from  catching  :  the  rods  of  these  protectors  run  up  through 
the  cross  braces  6®.  of  the  cylinder  frame,  passing  through  spiral 
springs  A ^  between  the  braces  which  help  to  press  them  down  on 
the  pattern-card.  It  will  be  seen  that  by  this  simple  method  the 
cards  are  prevented  from  being  misplaced  or  injured  when  the  loom 
is  in  the  most  rapid  motion. 

The  second  improvement  in  the  Jacquard  consists,  in  a  method 
of  counterbalancing  the  leads,  so  that  a  great  saving  of  power  is 
obtained  in  working  the  loom  :  this  improvement  is  shown  in 
Figs.  21S.  219  and  220.  11.  is  a  throated  pulley  which  revolves 
on  its  axis  in  a  suitable  stand,  bolted  to  the  frame  of  the  machine 
at  the  top  :  12.  is  a  strong  rope  made  fast  to  this  pulley  11,  and 
passing  out  at  one  side  of  if.  where  a  knot  is  made  upon  the  rope  ; 
this  knot  is  represented  at  .50.  Fig.  21S  :  one  end  of  the  rope  is  then 
connected  to  the  Jacquard  lifting  arm  at  16,  the  other  end  being 
made  fast  to  a  lever  13,  (Figs.  219  and  220 ;)  this  lever  has  its  ful- 
crum or  axis  at  15.  and  is  governed  by  the  counterpoise  14.  which 
may  be  regulated  to  any  required  position  by  means  of  a  set  screw, 
as  shown  in  Figs.  219  and  220 :  the  operation  of  this  apparatus  is 
as  follows :  When  the  loom  is  put  in  action,  the  rod  6^  Fig.  218, 
will  cause  the  end  16,  of  the  Jacquard  lifting  arm  to  be  elevated 
and  thus  allow  the  lever  13,  to  be  depressed  by  the  counterpoise  14 ; 
this  takes  place  at  each  vibration  of  the  lay,  while  the  shed  is  open- 
ing ;  and  while  the  shed  is  closing,  this  lever  wiU  again  recover  its 
first  position,  as  shown  in  the  Figs.  "While  the  shed  is  opening,  the 
weight  14,  on  the  lever  13,  will  aid  the  l>eltor  strap,  which  commu- 
nicates motion  to  the  machinery  (in  the  usual  way)  in  hfting  the 
leads,  because  it  will  act  as  a  counterpoise  upon  them.  By  a  proper 
adjustment  of  the  weight  14.  according  to  the  weight  of  lead  re- 
quired to  be  lifted,  the  belt  for  running  the  loom  on  light  goods, 
such  as  merinoes.  gros  de  Naples,  etc..  need  not  be  over  If  inches 
wide  :  we  have  never  used  a  broader  one  on  such  goods  ;  any  sud- 
den jerking,  caused  by  the  leads  in  their  descent,  will  be  entirely 
prevented  by  the  counterpoise  14.  By  means  of  this  contrivance, 
it  will  be  perceived,  that  the  power  required  to  drive  the  loom  is  but 
small,  not  more  than  one-third  as  much  as  in  ordinary  power  looms. 
To  some  very  learned  gentlemen,  this  apparatus  may  appear,  from 


FIGURED   WEAVING.  459 

its  extreme  simplicity,  as  unworthy  of  notice  ;  but  if  they  cannot 
see  through  it  theoretically  they  would  do  well  to  try  its  effects  in 
practice. 

The  third  improvement  in  the  Jacquard  is  shown  at  Fig.  228, 
and  consists  in  placing  the  spring  19,  on  the  needle,  instead  of  at 
the  back  of  it,  (as  at  c",  Fig.  98.)  In  Fig.  228,  17,  17,  represents 
the  common  lifting  hook  ;  18,  the  needle ;  19,  the  spring ;  20,  a 
wire  or  reed  dent,  inserted  in  the  double  of  the  needle,  outside  the 
spring;  21,  the  horizontal  wire  which  supports  the  row  of  needles 
(as  at  G^G^,  Fig.  95  ;)  22,  a  turned-up  lip  on  the  needle  against 
which  one  end  of  the  spring  19,  bears,  the  other  end  bearing  against 
the  dent  20  ;  23,  a  small  triangular  piece,  screwed  against  the  bot- 
tom of  the  needle  frame,  to  support  the  dents  20,  and  keep  them 
from  dropping  through ;  this  piece  may  either  be  made  of  wood  or 
iron ;  there  is  also  a  small  straight  edge  24,  screwed  against  the 
frame  above,  for  the  purpose  of  keeping  the  dents  20,  in  their  pro- 
per place;  these  dents  are  let  into  small  notches  or  cuts,  made  with 
a  saw  in  the  back  of  the  frame,  which  notches  should  be  rather 
larger  than  the  thickness  of  the  dent,  in  order  that  the  dent  maybe 
easily  drawn  out  when  required.  Now,  it  is  evident,  that  by  pressing 
back  the  point  18,  of  the  needle,  the  spring  19,  will  be  compressed 
between  the  dent  20,  and  turned-up  lip  22,  and  when  the  pressure 
is  removed,  the  needle  will  instantly  recover  its  former  position,  as 
shown  in  Fig.  228.  By  this  improvement,  the  pattern  produced  on 
the  cloth  will  be  more  perfect  than  in  looms  where  a  spring-box  is 
used,  such,  for  instance,  as  that  shown  at  Z'Z',  Fig.  9G ;  be- 
cause, when  the  springs  are  placed  on  the  needle,  they  do  not  re- 
quire to  be  of  more  than  half  the  strength  of  those  used  in  a  wood- 
en box,  for  the  following  reasons :  Firstly,  when  the  spring  is  placed 
on  the  needle,  as  in  Fig.  228,  changes  in  the  atmosphere  will  have 
no  detrimental  effect  upon  it  such  as  they  have  on  the  springs 
A-,  placed  in  the  box  Z',  Fig.  90,  these  being  liable,  when  com- 
pressed, to  stick  or  catch  on  the  fibres  of  the  wood  in  the  holes  of 
the  spring-box,  in  which  case  the  needles  would  not  be  driven  up 
against  the  card,  and  the  warp  threads  which  the  needles  governed 
would  not  be  lifted  ;  consequentlj'^  the  pattern  would  be  produced 
imperfectly  upon  the  cloth.  In  working  with  the  spring-box,  it  of- 
ten occurs  that  as  many  as  five  or  six  springs  stick  in  their  holes  at 
once,  particularly  in  damp  weather;  secondly,  when  the  springs  are 
placed  on  the  needles  as  shown  at  Fig.  228,  they  may  be  made  of 
brass  wire  as  fine  as  No.  28,  whereas,  with  the  spring-box  they 
must  be  of  No.  23  or  24,  and  even  then  their  action  is  not  near  so 


460  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

certain  as  in  the  former  instance.  AVe  have  worked  a  power  loom 
like  that  shown  at  Figs.  218  to  221,  upwards  of  six  years,  on  sil/c 
goods,  at  a  speed  of  from  110  to  120  picks  of  weft  per  minute,  with 
springs  of  the  description  shown  at  Fig.  228,  and  we  can  truly  say, 
that  w^e  never  observed  a  single  instance  of  a  needle  sticking  back,  or 
of  a  thread  being  misplaced  in  the  pattern  occasioned  by  any  fault  in 
the  operation  of  the  springs ;  these  springs  should  be  two  inches 
long  and  ,^d  of  an  inch  in  diameter.  When  the  spring  is  placed  at 
the  back  of  the  needle,  (as  shown  at  Figs.  96  and  98;)  it  sometimes 
expands  so  as  to  become  larger  than  the  doubled  end  of  the  needle ; 
and  when  this  occurs,  it  will  partly  slip  on  the  needle  at  every 
change  of  the  pattern,  and  thereby  prevent  the  proper  operation 
of  the  needle.  We  think  it  will  now  be  seen,  that  our  improve- 
ments on  the  Jacquard,  just  described,  obviate  several  very  serious 
defects. 

In  a  shuttle  of  the  ordinary  construction  (see  Fig.  224)  is  at- 
tached a  brush,  or  tuft  of  hair,  or  similar  fibrous  material  A*,  on  one 
side  just  under  the  bobbin,  or  quill  i^  ;  which  brush,  pressing 
against  the  bobbin,  prevents  the  thread  from  coming  off  in 
loops  or  kinks.  There  is  also  aflixed  a  small  pin  m%  in  the  side  of 
the  shuttle  against  which  the  bent  wire  n^,  is  pressed  by  the  spring 
0^,  the  pivot  or  axis  being  at  ;;''  ;  the  vreft  thread,  after  unwinding 
from  the  bobbin,  passes  between  the  bent  wire  7i^,  and  pin  m^,  giv- 
ing it  the  tension  required,  which  may  be  regulated  by  the  curve  of 
the  spring  o^  ;  it  then  passes  out  of  the  shuttle  through  the  eye  in 
the  usual  way. 

Near  the  axis  of  the  picker-sticks,  is  attached  to  the  journal  of 
the  lay  an  adjustable  iron  i^,  (Fig.  219)  with  bolts,  so  as  to  allow 
its  position  to  be  changed,  the  upper  end  being  bent  horizontal ; 
this  rises  above  the  fulcrum  of  the  picker  stick,  which  strikes  against 
it,  and  stops  the  picker  at  any  desired  distance  from  the  end  of  the 
shutile-box,  which  prevents  the  rebounding  of  the  shuttle  and  stop- 
ping the  loom. 

The  manner  of  stopping  the  loom  when  the  weft  thread  breaks 
is  as  follows : — Two  pulleys  y,  (see  Figs.  218  and  220)  are  affixed, 
one  over  the  harness-board,  the  other  just  below  the  lower  cross-bar 
of  the  loom ;  around  each  of  these  pulleys  is  passed  a  short  leatiier 
strap,  and  their  ends  are  connected  together  by  the  headles  or  strings 
y^]  to  the  front  of  the  lower  strap  is  fastened  one  end  of  a  bent 
lever  w,  (Fig.  220)  the  fulcrum  of  which  is  nearly  under  the  lower 
or  cam  shaft,  the  other  end  extends  up  above  the  cam  shaft,  on 
which  and   in  contact  with  the  lever,  is  placed  a  tappet  z'.     a^, 


FIGURED    WEAVING.  46i 

(Figs.  220  and  221)  is  a  series  of  strings  fastened  into  an  iron 
screwed  to  the  guard-board  in  front  of  the  breast  beam  (Fig. 
220 ;)  these  pass  through  suitable  dents  in  the  reed  and  over  the 
race-board,  which  is  here  cut  out  (see  detached  parts  of  lay,  (kc, 
Fig.  223)  so  that  the  shuttle  will  pass  over  the  strings  without  rub- 
bing them,  thence  through  the  mails  in  the  headles  y^,  one  half  go- 
ing into  the  front  or  lower  mails  and  the  other  half  into  the  back 
ones,  as  in  drawing  the  warp  of  a  plain  web  with  two  leaves  of 
headles;  they  are  then  extended  over  two  grooved  pulleys /i",  (Figs. 
220  and  221,)  placed  one  above  the  other,  so  that  all  the  strings 
which  are  kept  separate  by  the  grooves  on  the  pulleys  shall  be  en- 
tirely clear  from  each  other,  and  passing  down  through  a  plate  q^, 
(Fig.  220)  are  each  attached  to  a  separate  lead  weight  h^ ;  they  are 
thus  prevented  from  twisting  and  entangling. 

On  the  protector  ii^,  of  the  common  stop  motion,  is  formed  a 
notch  71-,  (see  detached  part.  Fig.  219^,)  and  to  the  slide  n%  (Fig. 
225,)  constructed  in  the  usual  way,  for  throwing  off  the  shipper,  is 
attached  a  button  /,  so  as  to  vibrate  easily  ;  from  this  button  is  ex- 
tended an  arm  Z',  under  the  strings  a^,  having  an  eye  in  its  end  ; 
to  each  of  the  lower  strings  is  connected  a  small  thread  or  wire  P, 
the  lower  ends  of  v;hich  are  fastened  into  the  eye  of  the  arm  Z' ; 
over  the  button  I,  is  a  sweep  P,  (Fig.  225)  made  in  the  slide-piece 
n^,  which  prevents  the  button  from  being  lifted  too  high  when  in 
action.  It  will  be  perceived,  that  as  the  cam  2;',  (Fig.  220)  revolves, 
it  throws  back  the  upper  end  of  the  bent  lever  w,  and  raises  the 
other  end,  which  is  united  at  the  bottom  to  the  strap  connecting  the 
headles  y^,  causing  the  front  ones  to  ascend  and  the  rear  ones  to 
descend,  thus  reversing  the  position  of  the  strings.  By  this  action 
the  button  /,  will  be  raised  above  the  slide  n^,  (see  detached  part  of 
protector,  Fig.  219J,)  so  as  to  be  struck  by  the  protector  «',  and 
ihrow  off  the  shipper :  but  while  the  weft  thread  is  unexpended,  or 
unbroken,  it  will  lie  across  the  lower  strings,  intercept  their  rising 
above  the  upper  ones,  and  thus  prevent  the  button  I,  from  coming 
in  contact  with  the  protector. 

Fig.  227,  represents  an  improved  method  of  working  the  Jac- 
quard,  which  we  have  found  very  advantageous  in  weaving  heavy 
goods  with  warps  of  a  sticky  nature,  whether  of  silk  or  wool.  The 
object  of  this  contrivance  is,  to  hold  open  the  shed  until  the  reed 
comes  in  contact  with  the  fell  of  the  cloth.  The  cam  9,  is  placed 
on  the  crank  shaft  (instead  of  the  eccentric  b",  as  in  Fig.  221 ;)  and 
it  is  surrounded  by  a  fork-piece  7,  7,  carrying  two  small  rollers  or 
pulleys  8, 8  ;  this  fork-piece  has  its  fulcrum  at  10,  where  it  works  on 


462  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

an  axis-pin,  fixed  on  the  framing  of  the  loom  (Fig.  219  ;)  the  cam 
9,  is  divided  off  by  hnes,  as  shown  in  Fig.  227,  and  is  so  arranged 
that  the  distance  between  the  points  11,  is  exactly  the  same  as  that 
between  the  points  22,  33,  44,  «fcc.  From  this  it  is  evident,  that  al- 
though the  cam  9,  is  longer  one  way  than  another,  yet  it  will  work 
freely  between  the  rollers  S.  S,  and  in  contact  with  them  :  for  ex- 
ample, the  width  of  the  cam  on  the  perpendicular  line  (drawn  across 
the  centre  of  the  rollers  8,  8,)  is  precisely  the  same  as  that  between 
the  points  11,  22,  and  so  forth.  Supposing,  for  example,  the  cam 
were  turned  round  until  the  one  point  4.  came  directly  under  the  up- 
per roller,  the  opposite  point  4,  on  the  same  line,  would  be  brought 
directly  above  the  centre  of  the  other  roller,  rs'ow,  had  not  the  cam 
this  shape,  the  lollers  8.  8,  would  not  bear  uniformly  upon  its  cir- 
cumference, but  would  allow  the  under  roller  to  fall  away  from  it  at 
intervals  until  a  fuller  part  came  into  action  against  the  roller :  the 
the  result  of  which  would  be  an  imperfect  shed,  and  a  continual 
cUtter-clatter.  It  is  unnecessary  to  say  more  on  this  subject,  as  any 
practical  manufacturer  or  loom  builder  will  easily  understand  the 
improved  mechanism,  and  its  mode  of  operation. 

The  improvements  just  described,  and  which  are  claimed  in  the 
patents  are  as  follow : — 

Firstly,  the  combination  formed  by  the  rollers  dd,  (as  shown 
clearly  in  Figs.  218  and  220)  and  the  cloth  roller  e,  having  the 
pulleys  d-,  and  e",  and  their  axes  (see  Fig.  219.)  connected  by  the 
belt  e^,  in  combination  with  the  bent  lever  e^,  having  the  governing 
weight,  for  the  purpose  described. 

Secondly,  the  roller  q^  and  rods  p^,  connected  to  and  in  combina- 
tion with  the  weigths  p^,  sliding  on  the  lever  p.  of  the  drag  or  fric- 
tion strap,  for  the  purpose  of  regulating  the  tension  on  the  warp 
beam  as  set  forth. 

Thirdly,  the  weft  pullers  or  tighteners,  for  drawing  forward  and 
straightening  the  thread  or  threads  of  weft,  whereby  the  slack  or 
loose  part  of  each  thread  of  weft  is  tightened  or  pulled  up  immedi- 
ately after  the  shuttle  passes  through  the  shed,  and  the  bad  effect 
arising  from  the  diagonal  line  of  each  weft  thread,  after  the  shuttle 
is  propelled  through  the  shed,  is  prevented  ;  and  in  combination 
therewith  the  eccentric  h",  connected  with  the  Jacquard  by  an  in- 
flexible rod  h^.  for  the  purpose  described. 

Fourthly,  the  application  and  arrangement  called  card  protectors, 
shown  in  Fig.  222,  for  preventing  the  cards  from  being  torn  or 
damaged  during  the  working  of  the  loom. 

Fifthly,  in  the  shuttle,  the  bent  wire  n^.  acted  on  by  the  spring 


FIGURED    WEAVING.  463 

0*,  in  combination  with  the  brush,  or  tuft  of  hair  h^,  for  regulating 
the  deUvery  of  the  weft  thread  from  the  shuttle. 

Sixthly,  the  regulating  iron  i\  (Fig.  219)  in  combination  with 
the  picker-sticks  i  i,  for  the  purpose  described. 

Seventhly,  the  placing  of  the  springs  19  (Fig.  228,)  on  the  needles 
of  the  Jacquard,  as  described,  instead  of  in  a  box  at  the  back  of  the 
needles,  as  in  Fig.  96. 

Eighthly,  in  the  motion  to  stop  the  loom  when  the  weft  thread 
breaks  or  becomes  expended  in  the  shuttle,  the  button  I,  attached  to 
the  slide  n^,  with  its  sweep  P,  and  arm  Z',  to  and  combined  with  the 
lower  strings  a^,  as  described,  and  set  forth  in  the  Figs. 

Lastly,  the  arrangement  of  mechanism  for  working  the  Jacquard, 
as  herein  above  set  forth,  and  as  shown  at  Fig.  227. 

M  M.  Dohmme  and  Romagney,  of  Paris,  obtained  patents  in 
France  and  Great  Britain  in  the  year  1837,  for  what  they  call,  an 
improvement  in  the  Jacquard,  the  object  of  which  is  to  supersede 
the  springs,  spring-box,  <fcc.,  at  the  back  of  the  needles.  In  order 
to  accomphsh  this,  the  patentees  construct  the  vertical  or  lifting 
wires  of  two  pieces,  as  in  Fig.  229 ;  that  marked  28,  passes  through 
the  eye  of  the  horizontal  needle,  and  has  a  bend  or  hip  30,  at  its 
upper  end  by  which  it  is  supported  on  the  top  board  31.  On  the 
end  of  this  bent  part  30,  an  eye  29  is  formed,  into  which  the  piece  or 
leg  27,  is  linked,  which  thence  descends  to  the  bottom  board  33, 
where  it  is  connected  to  the  harness.  25,  represents  a  needle,  which 
is  of  the  common  form ;  and  26,  the  needle-board,  against  which 
the  cylinder  plays.  The  bend  30,  constitutes  a  spring-lever,  atid  is 
a  substitute  for  the  spring  at  the  back  of  the  needle  shown  at  Fig. 
98 ;  the  weight  of  the  leads  below,  pulling  down  the  eye  of  the 
bend  30,  on  the  leg  28,  serves  to  keep  the  needle  25,  pressed  against 
the  pattern  card.  32,  represents  part  of  the  Jacquard  fiaming  to 
which  the  top  board  31,  is  bolted,  at  each  corner  of  the  machine; 
21,  the  horizontal  wire  which  supports  the  row  of  needles  at  the 
back  in  the  usual  way — only  one  needle,  with  its  lifting  apparatus, 
is  shown  in  the  Fig.  It  will  now  be  evident,  that  if  the  triangular 
hfter  34,  is  elevated,  the  leg  28,  will  also  be  raised,  carrying  up  with 
it  the  leg  27;  and  by  the  action  of  the  pattern-card  against  the 
point  of  the  needle  25,  the  lower  extremity  of  the  leg  28,  will  be 
thrown  off  the  lifter  34,  and  the  needle  will  be  missed.  The  under 
lip  of  the  lifter  is  about  -|  inch  in  width,  and  is  a  little  elevated  at 
its  edge,  to  prevent  the  legs  28,  from  slipping  off  while  being  raised; 
the  back  or  vertical  part  of  the  lifter  is  about  an  inch  in  depth.  The 
lifters  are  made  of  strong  sheet-iron,  and  are  riveted  at  their  ex- 


464  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

tremities  into  suitable  end  pieces,  forming  a  frame  or  griff.  When 
the  loom  is  at  rest,  as  in  the  Fig.,  the  lifters  should  be  f  of  an  inch 
below  the  points  of  the  legs  28.  The  board  21,  is  inclined  to  suit 
the  height  of  each  row  of  needles,  in  order  to  prevent  the  vertical 
wires  or  legs  28,  which  pass  through  the  upper  needles,  from  being 
thrown  farther  back  at  the  bottom  than  those  which  pass  through 
the  under  needles. 

A  committee  of  the  "  Societe  d'  Encouragement  pour  I'lndustrie 
Nationale,"  including  M.  le  Baron  Seguier,  waited  on  the  patentees 
of  the  above  invention  at  their  machine  shop,  Faub.  Poissonniere, 
Paris,  for  the  purpose  of  examining  four  Jacquards  on  this  princi- 
ple, in  operation  on  vesting  stuffs  ;  and  the  result  of  the  examina- 
tion was,  the  presentation,  by  the  wise-heads  of  the  Societe,  of  their 
large  gold  medal  to  MM.  Dohmme  and  Romagney.  The  com- 
mittee  also  drew  up  a  long  account,  showing  forth  the  advantages 
of  the  invention,  not  only  to  individuals,  but  in  a  national  point  of 
view  ;  they  likewise  set  forth  its  applicability  to  power-looms,  show- 
ing that  the  manufacturer  might  by  this  means  be  enabled  to  pro- 
duce figured  goods  of  the  most  beautiful  descriptions  imaginable, 
either  of  silk,  wool,  cotton,  or  linen,  and  with  as  much  facihty  as 
the  common  brown  sheeting  which  costs  only  8f  sous  a  yard.  The 
committee  thought  that  a  power-loom  having  a  Jacquard  filled  with 
these  double  or  two-legged  lifting  wires,  might  be  driven  at  a  speed 
of  from  300  to  569  picks  of  weft  per  minute :  and  they  were  also 
of  opinion  that  a  little  girl  of  19  years  of  age,  or  any  inexperienced 
individual,  could  easily  tend  20  or  30  of  such  looms,  each  giving 
out  the  splendid  textures  like  ic at er  falling  from  a  mountain  tor- 
rent !*  The  report  of  the  connnittee  formed  a  pamphlet  of  some  60 
pages,  independent  of  the  drawings  accompanying  it,  the  v.hole 
being,  perhaps,  one  of  the  clearest  expositions  ever  given  to  the 
Avorld  of  so  obscure  a  subject,  and  well  calculated  to  show  the  un- 
fathomable depth  to  which  human  wisdom  can  dive. 

Immediately  after  Messrs.  Dohmme  and  Romagney  obtained 
their  gold  medal,  and  the  Report  of  the  committee,  M.  Dohmme 

*  The  committee  further  observed  that  such  was  the  perfection  of  this  ma- 
chine, that  the  pattern-cards  might  be  made  of  common  wTiting  paper,  instead 
of  pasteboard.  We  have  tried  a  card  of  the  description  recommended,  but 
only  to  see  it  torn  in  tatters  the  first  rap  of  the  needles  against  it.  We  have 
also  tried  two  thicknesses  with  no  better  success  ;  and,  for  anything  we  know 
to  the  contrary,  might  have  continued  to  the  present  time,  adding  ply  after 
ply,  without  being  able  efiectually  to  withstand  the  shock  of  the  said  im- 
proved apparatus. 


FIGURED    WEAVING.  465 


waited  upon  us,  at  the  establishment  of  Messrs.  Pihet  &  Co.,  Ave- 
nue Parmentier,  Paris,  when  he  insisted  upon  the  immense  value 
of  the  machine,  and  wanted  us  to  apply  it  to  our  looms,  which  we 
there  had  in  operation  with  Jacquards  constructed  by  M.  Dioudon- 
nat,  (precisely  like  that  described  at  page  192.)    We  disapproved  of 
his  views  upon  the  subject,  and  to  show  us  beyond  the  possibility  of 
a  doubt  that  our  opinion  was  erroneous,  he  instantly  held  up  be- 
fore our  enraptured  eyes  the  said  voluminous  Report  and  the  glitter- 
ing gold  medal.     Shortly  after  this  we  received  a  visit  from  M.  Al- 
exandre AndeUe  (member  of  the  Legion  of  Honor)  and  several 
other  gentlemen,  inviting  us  to  see  a  few  looms  in  operation  with  the 
two-legged  hfting  wires ;    with   which  invitation  we  readily  com- 
plied.    On  our  arrival  at  the  manufactory,  in  the  Rue  Petrel,  we 
saw  eight  looms  at  work  on  fancy  vestings,  all  mounted  with  Jac- 
quards upon  this  plan.     After  examining  these  looms,  we  told  the  pa- 
tentees, in  the  presence  of  Mr.  Andelle  and  the  other  gentlemen  who 
accompanied   him,  that  the  two-legged   hfters  would  in  a  short 
time  be  numbered  among  the  things  that  were ;  and  at  the  same 
time  we  pointed  out  the  defects  of  the  plan.     All  this,  however,  did 
not  seem  to  damp  Mr.  Dohmme's  ardour,  until  we  passed  our  hand 
along  the  under  side  of  the  cloth,  bringing  the  nails  (which  were 
at  the  time  of  considerable  length)  in  contact  with   it,  and  drawing 
the  hand  gently  forward  ;  by  which  means  we  soon  collected  a  tole- 
rable handful  of  warp  threads  which  had  been  missed  altoge  her  by 
the  machine.     Mr.  D.  observed  that  this  evil  might  be  easily  reme- 
died by  using  heavier  leads   to  the  harness  below  ;  which  we  re- 
marked would  only  be  substituting  one  evil  for  another  ;  and,  final- 
ly, he  got  into  a  passion,  and  called  us  a  'prejudiced  foreigner  who 
was  unwilling  to  render  honour  where  honour  was  due,  and  partic- 
ularly so  to  Frenchmen  ! 

MM.  Dohmme  and  Romagney  entered  into  an  arrangement  with 
Sharp,  Roberts  &  Co.,  of  Manchester,  we  believe  through  their  agent, 
M.  Molinard,  by  which  patents  were  secured  in  Great  Britain,  and 
these  gentlemen  constructed  a  considerable  number  of  the  machines  ; 
aU  of^which  were  sold  to  manufacturers  on  guarantee.  About  this 
time  we  addressed  a  letter  to  Messrs.  Sharp,  Roberts  &  Co.,  through 
our  friend,  M.  Alexandre  Andelle  (who  had  frequently  transacted 
business  with  them  since  they  started  their  establishment)  offering 
them  the  construction  of  an  improved  Jacquard  of  ours.  In  an- 
swer to  this  letter  they  informed  us,  that  they  had  in  their  posses- 
sion at  the  time  (1837)  as  good  a  Jacquard  as  ours  or  any  other, 
either  in  Great  Britain  or  elsewhere,  namely,  the  said  Dohmme  and 

59 


466  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING, 

Romagney's  machine.  About  six  months  after  this,  Mr.  Roberts 
informed  Mr.  Andelle,  that  all  the  Jacquards  sold  by  him  on  guar- 
antee had  been  returned,  and  that  he  had  lost  360^.  by  the  d — d 
Frenchman  !  About  5000  of  the  machines  were  constructed  in 
Paris,  by  the  original  patentees,  most  of  which  were  sold  on  gua- 
rantee and  returned  or  thrown  aside  as  worthless,  nobody  continu- 
ing to  use  them  except  a  few  poor  persons  who  obtained  them  for  a 
mere  trifle,  and  could  not  afford  to  pay  for  good  machines. 

At  the  earnest  solicitation  of  M.  Dohmme,  we  applied  one  of  his 
machines  to  a  power-loom  ;  but  in  a  short  time  were  obhged  to  dis- 
card it  for  the  following  reasons  : — 

Firstly,  the  friction  of  the  legs  27  and  28,  in  the  holes  through 
which  they  pass  in  the  top  or  rest  board,  soon  wears  these  holes 
much  larger  than  they  should  be ;  which  will  be  evident  on  refer- 
ring to  the  Fig.  It  is  clear  that  when  the  lifter  34,  is  raised,  all  the 
strain  of  the  shed,  and  of  the  lead  weights  connected  to  the  harness 
below,  must  be  borne  by  the  leg  28,  and  mostly  by  the  bent  part  of 
it  or  hip  30. 

Secondly,  the  leads  must  be  much  heavier  in  this  machine  than 
in  those  where  springs  are  used  ;  because  the  pressure  of  the 
needles  against  the  card  entirely  depends  on  the  leads  ;  and  should 
these  not  be  of  an  uniform  weight,  the  needles  will  be,  in  the  same 
proportion  pressed  against  the  card  with  different  degrees  of  force ; 
or  should  two  warp  threads  stick  together  in  the  shed,  neither  of  the 
lifting  wires  to  which  they  belong  will  act  at  all. 

Thirdly,  in  order  to  bear  the  strain  of  the  shed  and  weight  of 
lead  attached  to  each  lifting  hook,  (wliich  weight  depends  on  the 
number  of  repeats  in  the  breadth  of  the  web,)  the  lifters  or  legs  28, 
must  be  made  of  strong  wire,  say  No.  10,  and  this,  of  course  in- 
creases the  diameter  of  the  eye  of  the  needle  25  ;  so  that  the 
needles  occupy  more  room  than  with  single  hooks  arranged  in  the 
old  way  (as  in  Fig.  96,)  where  it  is  customary  to  make  both  needles 
and  lifting  hooks  of  No.  14  wire. 

In  concluding  this  subject,  we  cannot  but  regret  that  so  much 
money  should  have  been  wasted  to  no  purpose,  and  such  praise 
foolishly  lavished  on  men  who  really  deserved  no  praise  at  all,  and 
this  too  by  a  committee  of  the  celebrated  "Societe  d'  Encourage- 
ment pour  1'  Industrie  Nationale."  There  is  in  our  opinion  no  surer 
way  of  bringing  such  laudable  institutions  into  utter  disgrace  in 
the  eyes  of  the  practical  manufacturer,  not  only  in  France  but  else- 
where, than  circumstances  of  this  nature.  Nobody  will  deny,  that 
had  either  Messrs.  Dohmme  and  Romagney,  the  committee  of  the 


FIGURED    WEAVING.  467 

Societe,  or  Mr.  Roberts,  been  acquainted  'practically  with  the  con- 
struction of  machines  for  weaving  figured  goods  in  general,  these 
ridiculous  blunders  might  have  been  avoided,  and  the  sum  of  80,000 
francs  saved. 

A  patent  was  obtained  in  England,  23d  May,  1842,  by  Frederick 
Goos,  machine  maker,  Manchester,  for  improvements  in  the  Jac- 
quard  ;  and,  according  to  the  patentee,  the  features  of  novelty  con- 
sist, in  the  first  place,  in  introducing  a  ^^  press-hoard^'^  pierced  with 
holes,  and  removing  the  cylinder  from  its  usual  situation  ;  by  this 
contrivance,  he  informs  us,  the  cards  are  presented  to  the  needles 
with  more  certainty,  and  any  accidental  breakage  prevented,  should 
the  cylinder  not  be  turned  entirely  round  as  the  card  advances ;  the 
cylinder  is  made  plain,  or  not  pierced,  and  employed  merely  for  the 
purpose  of  advancing  the  cards,  the  press-board  carrying  them  for- 
ward (o  act  upon  the  needles.  Upon  the  needle-board  as  well  as  on 
the  cylinder,  pegs  or  knobs  are  placed,  in  order  to  ensure  the  more 
certain  presentation  of  the  cards  to  the  needles  ;  the  position  of  the 
pressors  is  also  reversed  upon  the  cylinder  head,  and  the  rods  and 
springs  are  employed  to  act  upon  it  from  below  ;  the  bottom  of  tlie 
presser  is  beveled,  which  further  (the  patentee  says)  secures  the  cor- 
rect position  of  the  cylinder  ;  an  independent  cylinder-head  is  em- 
ployed outside  the  framing,  with  a  flange  to  guide  the  catches ; 
these  catches  being  in  o?ie  piece  instead  of  tivo.  Anotlier  peculiar- 
ity in  this  part  of  the  apparatus,  is  made  by  having  the  cyhnder- 
frame  so  constructed  that  the  cylinder  and  press-board,  with 
their  carriage,  may  be  readily  removed,  to  permit  the  changing  of 
the  set  of  cards.  The  bottom  rail  of  the  cylinder  frame  is  made 
adjustable  by  bolts  and  slots,  that  the  guide  may  be  always  kept 
true ;  and  the  carriage  and  slide  of  the  cylinder  are  kept  firm  by  a 
cross-rod.  By  this  arrangement,  the  slide  may  be  placed  inside  the 
guide-rails,  instead  of  outside,  as  heretofore.  Additional  prcssers 
are  placed  at  the  top  of  the  cards,  to  press  them  on  the  cylinder, 
their  guide-rods  sliding  in  holes  in  the  cross-rails  of  the  cylinder- 
frame  ;  which  arrangement  is  highly  valuable,  as  it  will  prevent 
the  cards  from  being  damaged.  Two  rods  with  springs  attached, 
having  flat  heads  or  discs  counter-sunk  in  the  needle-board,  are 
used  for  the  purpose  of  jerking  the  card  off  the  needles.  Another 
peculiarity  in  this  machine  (says  Mr.  G.)  consists  in  having  the 
lower  bend  of  the  lifting  hooks  extending  above  the  top  row  of 
needles,  and  placing  horizontal  wires,  one  for  each  row,  between 
the  two  pUes  or  legs  of  the  needles  ;  this,  Mr.  Goos  informs  us,  en- 


468  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

ables  him  to  dispense  with  the  use  of  the  ordinary  springs,  to  press 
the  needle  forward,  as  used  heretofore  in  all  Jacquards. 

The  placing  of  the  cylinder  above  the  needles,  as  described,  with 
the  press-board  below  it,  to  carry  the  card  forward  against  their 
points,  is,  in  our  opinion,  one  of  the  most  ridiculous  contrivances 
ever  brought  forth  by  way  of  improvement  on  the  Jacquard.  The 
constructing  of  the  lifting  hooks  or  wires  with  two  legs,  so  that  the 
bent  or  turned-up  shank  shall  extend  above  the  top  row  of  needles, 
is  quite  old  ;  indeed,  it  is  even  in  common  use  among  damask  ma- 
nufacturers in  the  town  of  Lurgan,  Ireland  ;  and  we  believe,  if  our 
memory  serves  us  right,  that  Peter  O'Flanagan,  Esq.  and  Mr.  Henry 
Kelly,  of  that  place  constructed  some  with  as  many  as  three  legs,  each 
of  which  was  much  longer  than  gooseys  legs.  The  additional  card 
pressers,  to  keep  the  cards  against  the  C3dinder  and  prevent  their 
being  jerked  off  the  knobs  while  the  loom  is  in  operation,  is  the  only 
thing  of  value  mentioned  by  Mr.  Goos ;  but,  unfortunately  for  him, 
this  improvement  is  included  in  Poole's  patent  of  May  12th,  1839, 
and  represented  in  this  work  at  Fig.  222. 

The  following  Figs,  represent  an  improved  loom  of  our  inven- 
tion, for  weaving  damask  table-cloths,  piano-forte  covers,  furni- 
ture and  window-curtain  stuffs,  <fcc.,  (fee,  &c.,  whether  of  silk, 
cotton,  wool,  hemp,  flax,  or  other  fibre,  or  parts  of  any  of  these 
combined  ;  as,  for  instance,  cotton  and  linen,  wool  and  silk,  wool 
and  cotton,  &c.  Our  American  patent  for  this  loom  is  dated  April 
12th,  1843. 

Fig.  230,  is  a  front  elevation  of  the  loom. 

Fig.  231,    left  hand  side  elevation. 

Fig.  232,rig]ithand  side  elevation. 

Fig.  233,  plan  of  some  parts  of  the  loom. 

Fig.  234,  vertical  section  of  parts  enlarged. 

Fig.  235,  plan  of  double  shifting  cams. 

Fig.  236,  two  views  of  button  of  double  shifting  cams. 

Fig.  237,  perspective  of  double  shifting  cams. 

Fig.  238,  perspective  of  the  improved  stop  thread  motion,  for 
throwing  the  loom  out  of  action  when  the  weft  thread,  or  threads, 
break  or  become  exhausted  in  the  shuttle,  or  shuttles. 

Figs.  239  and  240,  motion  for  taking  up  the  cloth. 

The  frame  of  the  loom  is  constructed  nearly  like  those  of  our 
other  looms,  already  described. 

The  Jacquard  A,  is  placed  upon  the  top  of  the  frame  of  the 
loom.  On  the  cylinder  journal  of  the  Jacquard  there  is  a  grooved 
pulley  6,  (Figs.  230  and   232)  over  which    an   endless    cord   or 


FIGURED    WEAVING.  ^69 


band  c,  passes  down  to  a  similar  pulley  rf,  below  it;  this  pulley 
is  suspended  on  the  end  of  a  horizontal  lever  e,  which  has  its 
fulcrum  attached  to  the  frame  of  the  loom,  as  shown  in  Fig. 
230,  or  the  pulley  may  be  attached  to  the  slide,  which  moves 
up  and  down  in  guides,  fastened  to  the  frame,  or  may  be  other- 
wise fixed  to  obtain  substantially  the  same  effect  without  de- 
parting from  the  principal  feature  of  the  improvement.  The  cord 
or  band  c,  is  for  turning  the  cylinder  to  the  right  or  to  the  left 
(as  the  nature  of  the  case  may  require,)  when  the  wrong  card  is 
presented  to  the  needles,  without  the  weaver  being  necessitated 
to  climb  up  to  the  machine  for  that  purpose;  the  lever  e,  being 
free  on  its  axis-pin  A,  (Fig.  230)  will  allow  of  its  other  extremi- 
ty rising  and  falling  according  to  the  vibratory  motion  of  the 
cylinder-carriage  or  frame  i,  and  thus  the  cord  or  band  c,  will  be 
kept  of  uniform  tension  during  the  operation  of  the  loom ;  this 
cord  or  band  revolves  continually  with  the  cylinder  while  the 
loom  is  in  action. 

It  will  now  be  seen,  that  by  taking  hold  of  the  cord  or  band 
c,  at  the  point  j,  (Fig.  230)  and  pulling  down  thereon,  a  new  card 
will  be  broucrht  to  the  face  of  the  needles.  When  the  cylinder 
is  being  turned  to  the  right  the  catch  k,  (Fig.  230)  is  to  be  lifted  up, 
by  means  of  the  usual  contrivance  for  that  purpose,  a  view  of 
which  will  be  had  in  the  Fig.  The  catch-cord  may  be  so  ar- 
ranged as  to  lift  up  with  the  cord  or  band  c,  each  time  the  mis- 
plac^ed  card  is  recovered,  by  simply  letting  the  bob  cord  I,  (Fig. 
230)  hang  down  parallel  with  that  part  of  the  cord  or  band 
c,  and  thin  hold  it  with  the  cord  or  band  c,  when  a  card  is  to  be 
recovered.  This  improvement  is  very  useful  where  only  one  thread 
of  weft  is  given  to  each  change  of  pattern,  because  the  loom  will 
always  run  one  card  over  after  the  weft  thread  breaks  or  becomes 
exhausted,  before  the  shipper  can  fairly  get  the  belt  from  off  the 
tight  pulley,  on  to  the  loose  one  ;  but  in  no  case  will  the  machine 
pass  more  than  one  card,  without  stopping,  after  the  thread  of  weft 
breaks  or  becomes  exhausted  in  the  shuttle. 

The  second  improvement  consists  in  the  mode  of  working  the 
Jacquard  machinery,  and  governing  the  shuttle  motion,  in  order  to 
obtain  eight  picks  of  weft  to  the  card  or  change  of  pattern,  and 
lose  one  pick,  so  as  to  procure  sufficient  time  to  change  the  pattern 
and  thereby  enable  us  to  obtain  a  more  smooth  and  uniform  action 
for  all  the  figuring  parts  of  the  machinery,  and  consequently  mak- 
ing a  more  perfect  piece  of  goods  than  where  any  sudden  jerking 
of  the  warp  yarn  was  caused :  by  this  arrangement  we  are  enabled 


470  THE    ART    OP    WEAVING. 

to  obtain  on  the  power-loom  a  mode  of  action  similar  to  that  ob- 
tained by  the  hand  loom  weaver. 

The  mode  of  operation  on  the  hand  damask  loom  is  this : — The 
workman  first  depresses  the  pattern  treadle,  and  thereby  forms  the 
shed  of  one  change  of  the  pattern,  which  treadle  he  keeps  down 
until  he  has,  with  his  right  foot,  worked  over  the  eight  ground 
leaves  of  headles,  by  means  of  the  eight  treadles,  throwing  in  one 
pick  of  weft  to  each  ;  he  then  lifts  his  foot  from  off  the  cylinder 
treadle,  whereupon  a  new  card  is  brought  into  contact  with  the 
needles  of  the  Jacquard  ;  he  again  depresses  the  same  treadle,  thus 
Hfting  the  second  change  of  pattern  so  transferred  to  the  figuring 
machinery,  and  throws  in  eight  picks  as  before,  working  over  the 
ground  treadles  in  the  same  manner,  &c.  Thus  it  will  be  seen, 
that  there  are  two  motions  of  the  cylinder  or  pattern  treadle  to  each 
card  ;  and  a  more  sudden  action  on  this  treadle  in  the  power-loom 
than  in  the  hand  loom,  where  ground  headles  are  used,  would  prove 
very  injurious  to  the  quality  of  the  goods  produced ;  besides,  the 
liability  of  the  warp  threads  to  break  would  be  greatly  increased, 
as  well  as  many  other  evils,  well  understood  by  every  competent 
tna?iufacturer  of  figured  goods.  Having  thus  described  the  na- 
ture of  the  operation  on  a  hand  damask  loom,  we  proceed  to  ex- 
plain the  manner  by  which  the  same  is  obtained  in  the  power  loom, 
that  is  to  say  : 

The  inflexible  connecting  rod  m,  (Figs.  230,  231,  234  and  237) 
of  the  Jacquard,  descends  below  the  crank  shaft  n,  and  its  lower 
end  is  connected  w^ith  a  horizontal  lever  o,  (Figs.  231,  233,  234, 
235  and  237)  that  extends  back  and  is  joined  to  the  back  part  of 
the  frame  of  the  loom,  working  on  the  axis  p  ;  there  is  a  stud  pro- 
jecting from  this  lever,  behind  the  point  of  its  junction  with  the 
vertical  lever,  on  which  is  a  friction  roller  q,  (Figs.  233,  234  and 
23.5)  that  plays  in  a  groove  in  the  face  of  a  wheel  r,  more  particu- 
larly described  hereafter  ;  the  driving  or  crank  shaft  is  furnished 
with  a  fast  and  loose  pulley  s  s.  (Figs.  230,  231  and  233)  in  the 
usual  way ;  the  cranks  by  which  the  lay  is  worked  are  inside  the 
frame  of  the  loom  (see  Figs.  231,  232  and  233.)  and  on  the  end 
opposite  the  pulleys  there  are  two  pinions  affixed  ;  the  inner  one  t, 
(Fig.  232)  is  half  the  diameter  of  the  spur  wheel  ii,  on  the  second 
or  cam  shaft  v ;  the  outer  pinion  is  one  ninth  the  diameter  of  the 
wheel  w,  (Fig.  232)  into  which  it  works  ;  this  wheel  being  on  the 
third  shaft  x,  whicii  is  placed  forward  of  the  cam  simft  v.  (as  shown 
in  the  Figs.)  and  on  a  level  with  it ;  the  third  shaft  (which  works 
the  Jacquard)  does  not  extend  from  side  to  side  of  the  loom,  but 


FIGURED    WEAVING.  471 

temiinates  a  little  beyond  a  brace  a^^  which  extends  from  front  to 
back  of  the  loom  frame  near  the  centre,  and  supports  one  of  the 
journals  of  the  Jacquard  shaft.  On  the  cam  shaft  v,  are  two  double 
grooved  cams  6^,  which  receive  motion  as  hereinafter  described  ;  the 
two  arms  of  each  of  the  cams  6-,  project  radially,  from  opposite 
sides  of  the  shaft,  and  are  so  placed  with  reference  to  each  other, 
that  when  one  is  in  action  on  the  treadle  c-,  the  other  revolves 
without  striking  it ;  the  hub  which  joins  the  two  arms  is  connected 
with  the  shaft  by  a  feather  upon  the  shaft  v,  so  that  the  cam  can 
slide  sideways  and  put  either  of  the  arms  in  contact  with  the  trea- 
dle c".  There  are  two  of  these  treadles  which  are  attached  to  the 
common  picker  stick  c/-,  (see  Figs.  230  and  231)  in  the  usual  way  ; 
these  treadles  are  depressed  alternately  by  the  double  shifting  cams 
fi'^,  for  eight  picks  of  the  shuttle  or  weft ;  the  cams  are  then  made 
to  slide  sideways  and  miss  one  pick ;  the  other  arms  are  then 
brought  into  contact  with  the  treadles,  and  eight  picks  more  are 
thrown  ;  at  every  ninth  beat  of  the  lay,  the  shuttle  remains  in  the 
box,  for  a  purpose  hereinafter  described.  On  the  Jacquard  shaft 
which  revolves  once  for  every  nine  beats  of  the  lay,  there  are  two 
wheels  or  drums  e",  affixed  opposite  to  the  double  shifting  cams  6^, 
which  wheels  have  two  parallel  grooves  in  their  periphery,  near 
each  edge,  around  eight  ninths  of  their  circumference,  from  which 
point  are  oblique  grooves  crossing  over  to  the  other  side,  and  form- 
ing a  X  at  their  point  of  junction ;  these  grooves  guide  the  ends 
of  the  two  levers  /^,  which  project  backwards  over  the  double 
shifting  cams  6^,  to  the  back  of  the  loom  frame,  where  they  have 
their  axes  on  stud-pins  g'\  the  forward  end  of  each  of  these  levers 
f-,  which  is  in  the  groove,  has  a  follower  or  oval  button  h",  on  it 
(see  Fig.  236,  where  this  button  is  shown  of  the  full  working  size) 
which  is  made  to  turn  and  follow  the  grooves  as  required ; 
around  the  hubs  of  each  of  the  double  shifting  cams  6^,  under 
the  lever  /^,  a  groove  is  turned  into  which  a  pointed  set-screw 
from  the  levers  /-,  projects  (one  from  each  lever  ;)  one  of  the 
wheels  e^,  is  placed  with  the  oblique  groove  one  ninth  of  the  cir- 
cumference of  the  wheel  behind  the  other,  so  that  first  one  of 
the  cams  6^,  will  be  shifted  and  then  the  other.  The  change 
takes  place  just  before  the  acting  arm  would  strike  the  treadle, 
which  brings  the  other  arm  on  the  same  cam  in  contact  with 
the  treadle  at  the  next  semi-revolution,  and  prevents  the  loom 
from  losing  more  than  one  pick  to  the  change  of  pattern  of  the 
Jacquard. 
The  Jacquard  shaft  x,  also  carries  a  wheel  r,  on   its   end,  in 


472  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

tlie  face  of  which  a  couceiitric  groove  j^,  (see  Fig.  237)  is  cut 
eight-ninths  of  its  circumference ;  the  other  ninth  the  groove 
curves  outward,  so  as  to  form  a  cam  which  will  act  on  the  con- 
necting rod  711.  of  the  Jacquard,  as  above  described  ;  and  while 
the  shuttle  misses  one  pick,  (by  remaining  at  rest  in  the  lay 
box.)  the  pattern  has  time  to  change,  even  although  the  loom 
be  ia  the  most  rapid  operation. 

Suppose,  for  example,  that  a  change  of  pattern  is  lifted  by 
means  of  the  wheel  r,  which  is  keyed  on  the  third  shaft  x,  as 
above  described,  then  we  begin  to  throw  the  shuttle  from  the 
right  hand  side  of  the  lay  to  the  left,  which  will  be  accomplished 
by  the  off-side  shuttle  treadle,  marked  1,  (see  Fig.  237 ;)  the  next 
pick  will  be  treadle  2  ;  the  third  pick  1 ;  the  fourth  pick  2  ;  the 
fifth  pick  1 ;  the  sixth  pick  2;  the  seventh  pick  1  ;  and  the  eighth 
pick  will  be  treadle  2.  The  shuttle  now  being  at  the  right  hand 
side  of  the  lay,  as  before,  must  not  be  thrown  until  the  cylinder  brings 
a  new  card  into  contact  with  the  pattern  needles,  and  thereby  trans- 
ferring a  new  change  of  pattern  to  the  warp  yarn  ;  this  requiring 
an  extra  motion  of  the  driving  shaft  to  effect,  could  not  be  accom- 
plished to  advantage  while  the  eighth  or  last  pick  of  the  change  of 
pattern  was  being  given,  as  above,  and  as  no  pattern  warp  would 
be  raised  in  time  for  the  semi-revolution  of  the  crank-shaft,  and 
there  not  being  suflScient  time  to  lift  the  pattern  shed,  before  the 
crank  arrived  at  its  proper  point  to  give  the  shuttle  impulse ;  if 
the  shuttle  treadle  1,  was  acted  upon,  it  would  cause  the  shut- 
tle to  be  thrown  over  the  entire  body  of  the  warp  yarn.  Now, 
to  avoid  this,  as  soon  as  the  eighth  pick  was  thrown  to  the 
right  by  treadle  2,  then  the  cam  which  works  the  treadle  1,  is 
shot  out  sideways  to  the  right  by  means  of  the  cross  groove  x 
in  the  double  grooved  wheel  e",  bringing  the  next  striking  arm  of 
the  cam  inside  (towards  the  right  hand)  of  its  treadle,  thereby 
moving  the  lever/-,  (see  Fig.  237)  with  its  follower  or  oval  button 
Ji^,  (Fig.  236)  from  the  groove  q-,  to  that  ofp^,  thus  throwing  off 
the  arm  of  treadle  1.  and  bringing  in  its  place  the  otlier  arm  of  the 
same  cam,  preventing  the  shuttle  from  being  thrown  the  ninth  mo- 
tion, the  treadle  1,  not  being  then  acted  upon. 

Secondly,  it  is  now  evident  that  treadle  2,  must  not  be  acted  upon 
the  tenth  motion,  because  that  treadle  throws  the  shuttle  to  the 
right  hand  side,  where  it  already  is.  The  next  thing  to  be  accom- 
plished, is  to  slide  the  other  cam,  which,  works  treadle  2,  sideways, 
so  as  to  throw  the  acting  arm  to  the  right  hand  side  of  treadle  2  ; 
which  is  elTected  by  means  of  the  lever  /-,  and  its  follower  or  oval 


Pig:  230. 


ftg-.^ai. 


-a-ja|:^,: 


ng232. 


i'. 


Fig:233. 


Fiff.236. 


Eo;  23a 


FiijX'aS 


FIGURED    WEAVING.  473 

button  h"^^  being  carried  from  the  groove  A-,  (see  Fig.  237)  to  that 
of  the  groove  I,  in  the  same  order  as  the  first. 

Thirdly,  the  two  acting  arms  of  the  double  shifting  cams  6',  will 
now  give  in  eight  regular  picks  of  weft  to  the  change  of  pattern,  the 
first  pick  throwing  the  shuttle  from  right  to  left,  and  so  on,  until  eight 
are  given  ;  whereupon,  the  action  of  the  apparatus  will  be  reversed, 
and  will  continue  to  work  right  and  left  every  other  eight  threads 
01  weft,  missing  one  pick,  or  beat  of  the  lay,  only,  to  each  change  of 
pattern. 

The  third  part  of  the  invention  is  for  working  the  front  mounting, 
which  consists  of  eight  leaves  of  headles,  marked  ^-,  (Figs.  230,  231 
and  232.)  forming  a  satin  or  tweeled  ground  ;  these  leaves  are  con- 
nected above  with  double  lifting  coupers  ii^,  (Fig.  230)  the  outer 
ends  of  which  are  connected  by  a  shackle.  The  shackles  on  the 
coupers  above  named,  are  connected  with  a  set  of  lifting  marches  y'^, 
(Fig.  233)  near  the  bottom  of  the  frame,  by  rods  or  wires  z~,  (Figs. 
230  and  232) ;  these  marches  are  parallel  with  the  Jacquard  shaft  x, 
and  have  their  fulcrums  near  the  centre  at  a",  (Fig.  233 ;)  between 
these  marches  there  is  another  set  h^,  called  sinking  marches,  the 
fulcrums  of  which  are  at  the  side  of  the  frame ;  the  opposite  ends 
being  connected  to  the  headles  underneath  ;  nearly  over  the  centre 
of  the  raising  and  sinking  marches,  a  cylinder  or  drum  c^,  (Fig. 
230)  is  placed,  the  journals  of  which  are  on  a  level  with,  and  at 
right  angels  to,  the  Jacquard  shaft  x  ;  they  are  geared  together  by 
bevel  wheels  e^,  (Figs.  230  and  233)  and  make  the  same  number 
of  revolutions.  The  cylinder  c^,  has  eight  grooves  or  divisions 
turned  in  its  periphery,  each  of  which  is  wide  enough  to  extend  over 
two  of  the  marches,  (a  raising  and  a  sinking  one ;)  the  projec- 
tions or  rollers/^. (shown  clearly  in  Fig.  230)  in  the  cylinder  occupy 
the  space  between  the  second  and  third,  fourth  and  fifth,  <fcc., 
throughout  the  series.  In  the  cylinder  are  inserted  eight  iron  spin- 
dles, near  its  periphery  and  parallel  with  its  axis ;  these  spindles 
pass  through  each  of  the  sinking  and  raising  rollers/^,  between  the 
grooves  or  divisions,  and  serv^e  for  their  axes,  which  are  just  half  the 
thickness  of  the  grooves  or  divisions  above  named,  and  have  a  hub 
projecting  from  one  side  to  fill  their  respective  grooves  or  divisions 
and  keep  them  in  place  ;  two  pulleys  thus  constructed  are  placed  be- 
side each  other  in  the  two  first  grooves  or  divisions,  and  a  steel  spin- 
dle is  passed  through  them,  their  hubs  being  towards  each  other  ; 
consequently,  when  the  cylinder  c^,  is  turned  so  that  these  rollers 
come  in  contact  with  the  projections  on  the  marches  directly  imder 
the  cylinder,  one  depresses  the  first  raising  march  in  the  series,  the 

60 


474  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

Other  the  first  sinking  march.  If  the  hubs  of  the  rollers  f^,  were 
placed  the  other  way  (reversed),  the  first  sinking  march  and  the  sec- 
ond raising  one  would  be  acted  on,  these  being  placed  under  the 
first  roller,  and  so  on.  The  others  are  placed  in  proper  order  for  an 
eight  leaf  satin  tweel,  and  need  no  further  illu&tiation.  The 
rollers  /^,  can  be  turned  on  either  side,  so  as  to  sink  or  raise  the 
headles,  as  required ;  and  by  drawing  out  the  spindles,  the  rollers 
can  be  so  arranged  in  the  cylinder  as  to  form  different  kinds  of 
tweels,  &c. 

From  the  foregoing  description  it  will  be  evident,  that  variations 
maybe  made;  as,  for  instance,  the  giving  off  a  less  or  greater  num- 
ber than  eight  picks  of  the  weft  per  change  of  pattern  ;  and  although, 
in  the  foregoing  description  and  drawings  eight  picks  of  weft  per 
card,  only,  are  mentioned,  the  machinery  is  not  confined  to  that 
number  ;  the  Jacquard  shaft  may  turn  once  to  five  beats  of  the  lay, 
or  once  to  seven,  &c,;  which  will  give  four  or  six  picks  of  weft  to 
the  card  or  change  of  pattern,  and  four  or  six  leaves  of  ground 
headles  will  be  used  instead  of  eight,  as  in  the  present  instance ;  all 
of  which  any  experienced  manufacturer  or  power  loom  maker  will 
at  once  perceive. 

For  very  wide  textures,  two  of  the  cylinders  c^  may  be  used  in- 
stead of  one  set,  and  also  two  sets  of  the  coupers  ii^,  the  lifting 
marches  y^,  and  the  sinking  ones  6^,  one  complete  set  at  each  side 
of  the  loom.  The  reason  of  this  is  obvious,  because  the  headles  be- 
ing very  wide,  say  three  yards  or  more,  the  strain  on  one  set  alone 
would  be  very  great.  We  therefore  prefer  the  use  of  two  sets  instead 
of  one,  on  very  wide  fabrics,  and  particularly  so  for  the  manufacture 
of  linen  table  cloths,  both  sets  being  geared  to  correspond  and  to  act 
at  the  same  time  on  their  respective  marches,  &.c.  But  on  the  nar- 
rower fabrics,  say  under  forty  inches  wide,  one  set  alone,  as  herein 
above  specified,  will  be  quite  sufficient. 

The  fourth  part  of  the  improvements  consists,  in  a  new  mode  of 
regulating  the  warp  beam.  The  warp  beam  g^,  (Figs.  231,  232 
and  233)  is  surrounded  at  its  ends  by  friction  straps  /i^,  each  of 
which  descends  to  a  horizontal  lever  i^ ;  the  fulcrum  of  this  lever  is 
supported  outside  the  frame  by  a  projecting  iron  j^ ;  on  the  other 
end  of  this  lever,  the  friction  weight  A'^  is  suspended,  one  weight  to 
each  side  of  the  loom,  (as  in  Fig.  233,)  to  which  a  connecting  rod  P, 
is  attached,  that  connects  it  with  an  upright  lever  m^,  (Fig.  231  and 
232 :)  this  lever  is  made  with  a  slot  in  its  lower  end  to  regulate  the 
distance  from  the  fulcrum  o^  of  the  lever,  at  which  the  connecting 
rod  Z^,  is  attached  ;  the  fulcrum  is  about  one  third  its  length  from  the 


FIGURED    WEAVING.  475 

top.  Tlie  upper  ends  of  the  levers  w,^,  support  the  journals  of  a 
small  roller  p^,  which  bear  against  the  warp  beam  g^.  When  the 
weaving  commences,  and  the  beam  is  full,  the  roller  p^,  is  very  far 
from  its  centre,  and  the  weight  k^,  is  near  the  end  of  the  lever  i^ ; 
as  the  size  of  the  warp  beam  decreases,  the  roller  p^  approaches 
nearer  to  the  centre  of  it,  and  the  weight  k^,  is  moved  towards  the 
friction  strap  A^,  thus  gradually  decreasing  the  friction  on  the  warp 
beam  and  regulating  the  tension  of  the  warp  ;  the  weights  k^^  will 
be  drawn  backwards  as  fast  as  the  warp  beam  decreases  in  size  ; 
the  friction  weights  may  be  drawn  back  by  springs,  or  by  some  other 
suitable  contrivance,  as,  for  instance,  by  weights  and  cords  passing 
over  pulleys,  (fee.  as  in  Figs.  231,  232  and  233 ;  any  required  de- 
gree of  tension  may  be  given  to  the  warp  yarn,  by  simply  adding 
cast-iron  quoits  on  the  perpendicular  spindles,  which  are  screwed 
into  the  weights  k^,  for  the  purpose,  as  shown  in  the  Figs. 

The  fifth  part  of  the  improvements  consists,  in  a  method  of  stop- 
ping the  loom  directly  when  the  thread  of  weft  breaks  or  becomes 
expended  in  the  shuttle.  This  contrivance  is  applicable  to  what  is 
called  the  stop  thread  motion ;  for  which  motion  patents  were 
granted  several  years  since  to  Charles  Cunningham,  Esq.,  of  Paris  ; 
and  in  England,  to  Messrs.  Wells  and  Eccles,  of  Manchester,  for 
another  modification  thereof,  bearing  date  5th  Jan.  1838  ;  and  for 
another  modification  still,  to  Moses  Poole,  Esq.,  of  the  Patent  OflSce, 
bearing  date  12tli  May,  1839.  Now,  in  order  that  the  nature  of  this 
invention  or  improvement  may  be  more  clearly  understood,  it  is  ne- 
cessary for  us  to  describe  so  much  of  the  methods  employed  hereto- 
fore, and  just  referred  to,  as  will  enable  the  reader  to  see  the  peculiar 
advantages  of  the  present  modification.  Several  of  the  parts  of  this 
mechanism  are  the  same  as  in  Poole  and  Cunningham's  patents. 
In  the  patent  granted  to  Wells  and  Eccles  (which  is  described  in 
vol.  13,  new  series,  of  London  Journal  of  Arts  and  Sciences)  there 
are  two  double  acting  levers,  marked  T,  and  U,  being  connected  to- 
gether with  a  small  string  or  wire  ;  these  levers  vibrate  on  two  stud 
pins,  which  serve  as  their  axes,  and  are  riveted  or  bolted  to  a  plate, 
secured  or  made  fast  to  the  side  of  the  loom,  directly  over  the  threads 
or  cords  P,  q  ;  the  top  set  of  which  cords  is  connected  to  that  end  of 
one  of  the  double  acting  levers,  marked  T,  which  projects  over  them ; 
to  the  opposite  end  of  the  other  double  acting  lever,  there  is  made 
fast  a  small  knob  W,  which  plays  up  and  down  between  a  piece  of 
iron  on  the  belt  shipper,  and  the  front  of  the  lay  :  all  of  which  will  be 
seen  in  the  account  of  Wells  and  Eccles'  patent  just  alluded  to.  It 
will  at  once  be  perceived,  that  in  this  modification,  the  double  act- 


476  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

ing  levers  T,  and  U,  will  be  kept  on  the  continual  wibble-wabble 
(shaking-quaker  fashion)  when  the  loom  is  in  operation,  and  thus 
the  knob  W,  will  sometimes  pop  itself  between  the  shipper  and  the 
lay  when  the  weft  is  not  broken,  or  expended  on  the  bobbin.  And, 
if  only  one  of  the  double  levers  T,  and  W,  is  used,  and  is  at  all  con- 
nected with  either  the  top  or  the  bottom  set  of  tineads  P.  q.  by  means 
of  the  other  small  connecting  threads,  as  in  the  foregoing,  then,  the 
motion  will  be  quite  as  uncertain.  Now,  to  remedy  this  evil,  Poole's 
patent,  of  I2th  May,  1839,  lias,  instead  of  the  double  acting  levers, 
above  referred  to,  a  small  jogged  piece  of  iron,  resting  on  the  girth 
of  the  loom  and  connected  to  the  side  of  the  shipper  slide  (see  Fig.  225); 
to  this  jogged  piece  of  iron  is  attached  a  set  of  small  cords,  which 
are  connected  to  the  under  tier  of  the  stop  motion  strings  ;  by  this 
improvement  the  double  acting  levers  T,  and  U,  (in  Wells  and  Ec- 
cles'  patent.)  are  done  away  with  altogether.  Poole's  method  is 
thus  rendered  far  more  certain  than  the  other,  because  the  jogged 
piece  of  iron,  resting  on  the  side  of  the  loom,  renders  the  motion  more 
stead}'. 

There  is  a  series  of  cords  q^,  (see  Figs.  231,  232  and  238)  attached 
to  the  weights  r^.  (Fig.  231)  and  passing  over  the  pulleys  5^,  through 
the  headles  or  endless  band  P.  (Figs.  230  and  231)  under  the  cum- 
ber-board, the  headles  being  worked  by  the  cam  shaft — all  as  de- 
scribed in  the  patent  granted  to  Moses  Poole.  The  cords  q^,  after 
passing  over  the  shuttle-race,  instead  of  being  all  tied  to  one  iron 
on  the  breast-beam  or  front  board,  are,  as  shown,  half  of  them,  or 
those  passing  through  the  mails  in  the  back  headle,  affixed  to  an 
iron  w^,  that  projects  up  in  front  of  the  breast-beam  or  front  guard 
board  ;  this  iron  extends  down  to  the  bottom  edge  of  the  breast- 
beam  or  front  board,  to  which  it  is  attached,  and  then  turns  at  right 
angles  under  it,  as  atv^(Figs.  231  and  238.)  the  end  terminating  in 
a  vertical  pin  or  turned-up  party^(see  Fig.  238)  a  little  shorter  than 
the  part  u^ ;  to  the  top  of  this  turned-up  part  y^,  which  has  a  num- 
ber of  holes  for  the  purpose,  the  ends  of  the  cords  or  cat-guts  are  at- 
tached. On  the  breast-beam,  there  is  a  strong  piece  of  sheet-iron  w^, 
screwed  or  otherwise  made  fast,  that  extends  inward  to  the  iron  just 
described,  and  is  attached  to  the  breast-beam.  On  that  end  of  the 
iron  ^^^,  next  to  the  lay,  a  stud-pin  projects,  forming  a  fulcrum  for  a 
lever ;2;^,  (see  Fig.  238  :)  this  lever  curves  up  from  one  side  of  the  ful- 
crum slightly,  and  thence  projects  under  the  upper  set  of  cords  q^, 
which  cords  are  attached  to  the  front  end  of  the  iron  u^ ;  on  the  other 
side  of  the  fulcrum  the  lever  z"\^  extends  out  beyond  the  framing  and 
curves  down,  its  end  bearing  a  knob  (Figs.  231  and  238).     The 


FIGURED   WEAVING.  477 

belt  shipper  a^  and  its  catch  b\  (Fig.  238)  are  of  the  usual  construc- 
tion. On  the  handle  of  the  shipper  is  a  projecting  piece  c%  that 
reaches  beyond  the  upright  of  the  frame.  In  Fig.  238,  the  shipper 
a^,  is  represented  off,  and  consequently  the  loom  stopped.  The 
shuttle  at  each  pick  passes  between  the  upper  and  under  cords  q^, 
and  when  it  enters  the  box  it  leaves  the  weft  thread,  if  not  broken 
or  exhausted,  across  the  under  set ;  the  lower  set  of  cords  are  then 
raised,  and  the  upper  ones  depressed  till  they  meet  in  the  centre  of 
the  shed,  and  are  prevented  from  going  farther  by  the  thread  of  the 
weft ;  but  if  there  is  no  thread  left  across  between  the  sets  of  cords  q^, 
they  pass  each  other  and  the  upper  ones  are  brought  down  low 
enough  to  depress  the  end  of  the  bent  lever  z^,  which  is  under  them  ; 
this  elevates  the  knob  x^,  on  the  other  end,  and  brings  it  between 
the  lay  and  the  projection  c*,  on  the  shipper,  and  throws  it  off,  and 
consequentl)'^  causes  the  loom  to  stop. 

Fig.  239,  shows  as  much  of  a  power  loom  as  will  enable  us  to  ex- 
plain an  improved  method  of  taking-up  the  cloth  ;  and  Fig.  240 
represents  the  apparatus  detached  from  the  loom.  d\  is  the  driving 
wheel,  on  the  end  of  the  crank  shaft,  taking  into  the  wheel  e%  on 
the  cam  shaft ;  on  this  shaft  we  place  an  eccentric  f^,  surrounded 
by  a  collar  g\  made  in  two  parts  and  held  together  by  bolts  h* ;  to 
one  side  of  the  collar  is  connected  a  rod  i\  having  a  screw  joint  j% 
for  receiving  the  end  of  a  rod  k\  which  works  on  the  axis  pin  l"^  ; 
this  pin  may  be  raised  or  lowered  in  the  slot  m^,  of  the  vertical  lever 
which  has  its  fulcrum  at  ?i^,  to  suit  the  number  of  picks  of  weft  re- 
quired per  inch  of  the  goods  to  be  produced;  the  upper  end  of  this 
lever  has  also  a  slot  in  it,  carrying  a  stud-pin  o%  and  this  stud-pin 
forms  the  axis  of  the  click  or  drag  jj\  which  draws  round  the  cloth 
roller  as  usual.  Now,  suppose  that  the  loom  is  put  into  action,  the 
eccentric  /',  will  cause  the  lever  m^,  to  oscillate,  and  thus  a  contin- 
uous rotary  motion  will  be  communicated  to  the  cloth  roller,  through 
the  medium  of  the  click  or  drag  p*. 

Having  now  described  the  nature  of  the  improvements,  and  the 
manner  in  which  the  same  maybe  performed,  it  is  to  be  understood 
that  we  do  not  limit  ourself  to  the  particular  arrangement  of  ma- 
chinery required  for  a  loom  to  weave  figured  fabrics,  as  we  are  quite 
aware  that  different  forms  and  arrangements  will  be  found  necessary 
for  effecting  the  same  objects  in  looms  for  weaving  other  fabrics,  and 
to  which  some  of  these  our  improvements  may  be  applied,  but  they 
will  be  such  as  any  experienced  workman  may  at  once  understand 
from  the  description  here  given,  and  will  be  governed  by  the  nature 
of  the  loom  or  looms  to  which  they  are  to  be  applied,  as  well  as  the 


478  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

goods  to  be  produced  ;  as,  for  instance,  the  improved  method  of 
stopping  the  loom  when  the  weft  thread  breaks,  may  be  apphed 
with  advantage  to  any  power  loom.  Nor  do  we  mean  to  hmit 
the  said  improvements  to  looms  with  Jacquard  machiner)',  as  they 
are  also  applicable  to  various  other  kinds  of  figured  looms ;  for  in- 
stance, cylinder  or  barrel  looms,  (like  that  described  at  page  1S2,) 
where  a  cylinder  is  used  instead  of  Jacquard  machinery. 

Firstly,  what  we  more  particularly  claim  as  the  inventions  or  im- 
provements, is  the  combination  of  the  third  shaft  x.  with  the  crank 
shaft  7?,  and  cam  shaft  v.  the  Jacquard  and  cam  shafts  being  driven 
by  separate  pinions  on  the  crank  shaft;  in  the  manner  and  for  the 
purpose  above  specified. 

Secondly,  we  claim  the  combination  of  the  double  sliding  cams  V^^ 
one  for  each  of  the  shuttle  motion  treadles  c- ;  which  cams  slide  in- 
dependently of  each  other  from  right  to  left,  and  from  left  to  right,  in 
order  to  give  eight  regular  motions  on  the  right  and  m'lss  one,  then 
change  positions ;  and  in  connexion  therewith,  the  two  double  grooved 
wheels  or  drums  e^,  on  the  Jacquard  shaft  .r,  and  the  two  regulating 
levers  or  rods/',  by  which  the  shifting  or  sliding  motion  is  commu- 
nicated to  the  double  shifting  cams  h",  constructed  and  arranged 
substantially  in  the  manner  and  for  the  pui-pose  herein  set  forth. 

Thirdly,  we  claim  the  combination  of  the  cylinder  c^.  with  the 
concentric  cam  wheel  r,  working  the  Jacquard,  for  acting  on  the 
marches  of  the  headles,  in  the  manner  and  for  the  purpose  above 
described  ;  but  we  do  not  claim  the  cylinder  c^  as  new  in  itself,  the 
same  having  been  used  for  other  purposes  heretofore. 

Fourthly,  we  claim  the  combination  of  the  endless  cord  or  band  c, 
with  the  Jacquard  cylinder,  pulleys  h,  and  d.  and  horizontal  lever  e, 
in  the  manner  and  for  the  purpose  set  forth. 

Fifthly,  we  claim  the  apparatus  for  decreasing  the  tension  on  the 
friction  strap,  on  the  warp  roller,  as  the  warp  unwinds ;  that  is  to 
say,  the  combination  of  the  roller  7?^,  and  connecting  rods  Z^,  Avilh 
the  weights  k"^.  in  the  manner  and  for  the  purpose  herein  described. 

Sixthly,  we  claim  the  improvement  in  the  motion  to  stop  the  loom 
when  the  v/eft  thread  or  threads  break  or  become  exhausted  in  the 
shuttle,  as  above  specified,  viz :  the  combination  of  the  iron  ?f^,  ou 
the  breast-beam  or  front-board  of  the  loom,  the  turned-up  end  y^, 
and  lever  2;^  constructed  and  arranged  as  herein  made  known. 

The  improved  method  of  taking  up  the  cloth  represented  in  Figs. 
239  and  240,  was  invented  by  us  in  the  year  1831,  and  which  we 
first  applied  to  a  mushn  loom  at  the  establishment  of  3Iessrs.  Claude 
Giidwin  &-  Co.  Glasgow,  Scotland. 


FIGURED   WEAVING.  479 

The  foregoing  improvements  do  not  constitute  over  one-third  of 
our  inventions  in  looms.  We  have  obtained  patents  in  the  names 
of  Poole,  Cunningham,  Truffaut,  and  others,  for  25  or  30  other  im- 
provements, in  the  manufacture  of  plain,  tweeled  and  figured  goods 
by  hand  and  by  power,  which  we  cannot  describe  in  this  work ; 
indeed,  these  improvements  are  mostly  applicable  to  power  looms  for 
weaving  Carpets,  Coach-lace,  &c.  (fcc  ;  but  we  intend  laying  them 
before  the  public,  along  with  other  interesting  matter,  at  no  very 
distant  period. 

On  application  to  the  Hon.  H.  L.  Ellsworth,  Commissioner  of 
Patents  at  Washington,  D.  C,  he  furnished  us  with  the  following 
statement  of  claims  of  the  patents  granted  to  Erastus  B.  Bigelow, 
Esq.,  of  Lowell,  Mass.     Patent,  dated  May  16,  1842  : — 

"  First,  I  claim  the  placing  and  working  of  the  journals  t',  u',  v', 
and  w',  as  shown  in  figures  1,  and  3,  of  the  accompanying  draw- 
ings, above  the  Jacquard  machine,  for  the  purpose  of  keeping  the 
ktiot  cords  straight,  and  thereby  securing  their  proper  action  on  the 
trap  boards  g',  and  h',  when  said  trap  boards  are  raised ;  and  also 
the  raising  of  one  of  said  trap  boards  whilst  the  other  descends 
in  order  to  equalize  the  powers  required  to  drive  the  loom  ;  and  in 
combination  with  this  arrangement,  I  hkewise  claim  the  working 
of  the  card  prism  or  polygon,  by  means  of  a  cam,  or  other  analo- 
gous device  operating  on,  and  working  said  card  prism  or  polygon, 
when  the  trap  boards  are  at  rest ;  the  respective  operations  herein 
referred  to,  being  carried  on  or  effected,  substantially  in  the  manner 
herein  fully  made  known. 

"  Secondly,  I  claim  the  combination  formed  by  the  two  rollers  d^, 
and  e*,  as  shown  in  the  drawings,  through  ivhich  rollers  the  cloth 
passes,  with  the  vibrating  or  tension  roller  i*,  which  is  employed 
to  give  tension  to  the  warp,  substantially  as  described. 

"  Thirdly,  I  claim  the  connecting,  the  vibrating  or  tension  roller 
i^,  with  the  machinery  employed  to  turn  the  warp  beam,  for  the 
purpose  of  regulating  the  action  of  said  machinery  ofi  said  warp 
beam,,  and  thereby  determining  the  quantity  of  warp  delivered  out, 
in  the  manner  set  forth. 

"Fourthly,  I  claim  the  manner  in  which  I  construct m.y  shuttle 
boxes,  as  described  under  the  head  of  my  third  improvement,  and 
represented  in  the  respective  figures  therein  referred  to,  together  with 
the  modifications  thereof  herein  made  known  ;  the  said  shuttle  box 
consisting  of  a  table,  with  springs  and  catches,  and  having  a  ])ro- 
jecting  pin  on  each  end,  which  is  to  be  received  and  operated 
upon  by  the  reciprocating  arms  as  described. 


480  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

"  Fifthly,  1  have  represented  and  described  my  shuttle  boxes  as 
disconnected  with  the  lathe  (lay,  we  suppose,)  but  I  do  not  now 
claim  the  mere  disconnecting  of  these  parts,  this  having  been  the 
subject  of  a  claim  in  the  specification  of  a  patent  for  a  loom  for 
weaving  coach  lace  granted  to  me  on  the  20th  day  of  April,  1837 — • 
But  I  do  claim  as  an  improvement  thereon,  the  working  of  a  series 
of  shuttle  boxes,  so  disconnected,  and  supported  by  the  frame  of  the 
loom,  or  other  stationary  part  of  the  structure  adapted  thereto  in  the 
manner  set  forth,  that  is  to  say,  having  the  said  shuttle  boxes  to 
tiiTJi  or  slide  in  stationary  fixtures  attaclied  to  the  frame  of  the 
loom,  or  in  any  other  manner  which  is  substantially  the  same.  A 
series  of  shuttle  boxes  so  disconnected  may  be  applied,  and  I  intend 
to  apply  them  to  looms  in  which  the  fly  shuttle  is  used,  and  I  do 
not  limit  my  claim,  therefore,  to  their  employment  in  looms  of  the 
kind  herein  described  (the  above  claim  is  a  'cute  one.) 

"  Sixthly,  I  claim  the  manner  of  arranging  and  combining  the 
machinery  employed  to  cause  the  above  mentioned  reciprocating 
arms,  rods  or  bars,  to  receive,  retain  or  discharge  the  shuttles,  when 
they  are  lianded  through  the  iDarp  ! 

"  Seventhly,  I  claim  the  manner  of  constructing  and  arranging 
the  apparatus  herein  described,  for  preventing  the  selvage  of  the 
cloth  from  being  drawn  in,  and  of  stopping  the  loom  when  the 
filling  breaks,  or  is  exhausted  on  the  bobbin. 

"  Eighthly,  I  claim  the  manner  of  throwmg  the  loom  out  of  gear, 
when  a  change  of  colour  is  required  in  the  fiUing,  by  means  of  the 
comiection  formed  for  that  purpose  between  the  Jacquard  machine 
and  the  shipper,  whether  such  connection  be  made  precisely  in  the 
manner  described,  or  in  any  other  which  is  substantially  the  same." 

Patent,  dated  May  26,  1842;  antedated,  May  1,  1842. 

"  First,  I  claim  the  application  of  the  tneasuring  roller  i,  to  the 
cloth  or  yarn,  for  the  purpose  of  regulating  the  action  of  the  ma- 
chinery employed  to  deliver  out  the  chain  or  warp,  or  to  take  up  the 
finished  cloth  in  the  manner  above  described,  or  under  such  modifi- 
cations thereof  as  shall  produce  the  same  end  by  similar  means. 

"  Secondly,  I  claim  the  combination  formed  by  the  tension  roller 
b,  and  the  measuring  roller  i,  co-operating  together  in  the  manner 
and  for  the  purpose  herein  set  forth. 

"  Thirdly,  I  claim  the  mode  of  giving  an  uniform  tension  to  each 
thread  of  woof  or  filling  as  above  described,  that  is  to  say,  I  claim 
the  grasping  of  the  thread  of  woof  or  filling,  at  a,  point  between 
the  shuttle  and  selvage  of  the  cloth,  by  the  bars  e',  e',  and  q',  q',  or 
by  a  pair  of  pliers  operating  in  a  similar  manner  as  set  forth,  to- 


FIGURED    WEAVING. 


481 


gether  with  the  mode  of  giving  tension  to  the  filUng  as  above  set 
forth,  or  in  an}^  other  manner  which  is  substantially  the  same. 

"  Fourthhj,  I  claim  the  manner  in  which  I  have  connected  the 
shipper  and  the  rotating  ^haft  .v',  with  the  apparatus  employed  to 
give  tension  to  the  woof  or  filling,  for  the  purpose  of  throwing  the 
loom  out  of  gear  when  the  woof  or  filling  breaks,  or  is  exhausted  on 
the  bobbin." 

Patent,  granted  May  30,  1842;  antedated  May  1,  1842. 
"  Having  thus  fully  described  the  nature  of  my  improvements,  in 
the  loom  for  weaving  counterpanes,  and  other  figured  articles,  and 
having,  also,  set  forth  several  different  modifications  thereof,  and 
particularly  in  the  manner  of  forming  and  arranging  the  ca^ns  on 
the  cam  shafts,  by  which  the  required  motion  is  given  to  the  re- 
spective treadles,  so  as  to  correspond  in  their  action  with  the 
arrangements  made  in  the  other  parts  of  the  loom,  it  is  to  be  under- 
stood that  I  do  7iot  claim,  nor  do  I  intend  to  limit  myself  to  the  par- 
ticular arrangement  of  the  cams  and  treadles,  these  not  constituting 
a  distinguishing  or  an  essential  feature  of  my  improvements  ;  these 
consisting,  mainly,  in  the  mounting  of  the  loom  and  of  tying  up  the 
harness,  so  as  to  admit  of  the  employment  of  one  or  more  moveable 
harness-boards,  and  of  07ie  or  more  leaves  of  headlex,  and  of  the 
Jacquard  Machine  in  the  power  loom.  By  this  arrangement  I  am 
enabled  to  produce  a  free  and  open  shed  of  the  warp,  and  to  allow 
one  part,  or  shed,  thereof  to  descend  ivhilst  the  other  is  rising: 
What  1  claim,  therefore,  as  constituting  -my  inventions,  and  which 
I  desire  to  secure  by  Letters  Patent,  is  the  within  described  man- 
ners or  modes  of  mounting  the  loom,  and  tying  up  the  harness,  and 
of  working  the  same,  in  which,  under  its  various  modifications,  I 
combine  a  moveab'e  harness-board,  or  boards,  with  one,  or  more, 
leaves  of  headles,  or  harness,  and  with  the  Jacquard  Machine  in 
the  power  loom,  such  arrangement  and  combination  being  sub- 
stantialhj  the  same  tvilh  tJiat  herein  described^ 

We  have  given  above  Mr.  Bigelow's  claims,  exactly  as  received 
from  the  Commissioner  of  Patents ;  and  we  shall  now  offer  a  few 
remarks  upon  them,  beginning  with  his  patent  of  16lh  May,  1842. 
The  first  claim,  regarding  the  action  of  the  knot-cords  and  trap- 
boards,  contains  no  new  feature,  as  has  been  already  stated.  See 
pages  446  to  448.  The  working  of  the  card  prism  or  polygon, 
(Jacquard  cylinder),  by  means  of  a  cam,  when  the  trap  boards  are 
at  rest  (or  even  in  motion)  has  been  done  long  since.  Mr.  J.  Kyle, 
of  Glasgow,  M.  Eug.  Lefebre,  of  Lyons,  and  M.  R.  Dubois,  of 
Paris,  used  cams  and  other  contrivances  for  that  purpose  many  years 

61 


482  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

ago,  on  looms  for  weaving  some  kinds  of  vestings  and  furniture 
stuffs ;  and  we  ourself  effected  the  same  thing  as  far  back  as  the 
year  1S31,  on  a  loom  for  weaving  quilted  vesting  stuffs,  but  owing 
to  improvements  which  we  afterwards  made  in  the  mode  of  tying 
up  the  harness,  we  were  enabled  to  dispense  with  the  cam  altogether. 

Both  the  second  and  third  claims  are  comprised  in  Poole's,  Cun- 
ningham's, Truffaut's,  and  Wilbur's  patents.  See  page  462,  and 
Figs.  218,  219  and  220. 

The  fourth  claim  contains  nothing  worthy  of  notice. 

The  fifth  claim,  for  disconnecting  the  shuttle  boxes  from  the  lay, 
making  the  boxes  to  turn  or  slide  on  stationary  fixtures  attached  to 
the  frame  of  the  loom,  is  ingenious,  and,  if  simphfied  in  its  mechan- 
ism, might  be  found  advantageous  in  the  manufacture  of  many 
kinds  of  fancy  goods  ;  but,  besides  Mr.  Fletcher  (see  page  394) 
there  are  five  other  different  claimants  to  the  honour  of  this  inven- 
tion. It  remains  to  be  seen,  therefore,  to  w^hom  this  contrivance 
justly  belongs  ;  which  our  forthcoming  treatise  on  carpeting  will 
clearly  set  to  rights. 

The  sixth  claim  merits  no  attention. 

The  seventh  claim,  for  preventing  the  selvage  of  the  cloth  from 
being  drawn  in,  and  of  stopping  the  loom  when  the  weft  thread 
breaks,  is  illustrated  at  pages  403,  416  to  421,  443,  454  to  463,  and 
at  468  to  478. 

The  eighth  claim  is,  for  throwing  the  loom  out  of  gear  by  means 
of  a  connection  between  the  shipper  and  the  Jacquard  machine.  If 
by  this  Mr.  Bigelow  means  the  connection  of  the  shipper  with  a  few 
spare  Jacquard  needles,  one  for  each  colour  employed,  these  needles 
being  acted  upon  by  the  card  when  a  new  coloiu'  is  to  commence  in 
the  cloth  ;  we  say,  if  he  means  this,  he  claims  that  which  truly  he- 
longs  to  us.  Besides,  w^e  have  adapted  Jacquard  needles,  (with 
lifting  hooks,  made  of  No.  10  wire,)  for  working  a  series  of  shuttle 
boxes,  either  in  hand  or  power  looms ;  and  for  which  we  obtained 
patents,  in  the  name  of  Mr.  Poole,  and  others,  several  years  before 
the  date  of  Mr.  Bigelow's  patent.  A  modification  of  our  plan  for 
working  the  shuttle  boxes  with  the  Jacquard,  is  specified  in  Poole's 
patent  of  May  12,  1839  ;  and  any  person  who  feels  interested  on  the 
subject  may  obtam  a  copy  of  the  specification  and  drawings  of  this 
patent,  from  Messrs.  Poole  and  Carpmael,  of  tlie  Patent  Office, 
4  Lincoln's  Inn,  Old  Square,  London,  on  payment  of  22/.  10*. 
(about  $108,00.) 

In  Mr.  Bigelow's  patent  of  26th  May,  1842,  his  first  claim  is,  the 
measuring  roller  i,  (fcc,  for  regulating  the  giving-out  of  the  warp 


FIGURED    WEAVING.  483 

and  the  taking-up  of  the  cloth.  Our  apparatus  for  this  purpose  is 
described  at  page  352,  and  represented  at  Figs.  161  to  164,  where 
a  measuring  roller  is  shown,  marked  d. 

The  second  claim  is  only  a  modification  of  the  first. 

The  third  claim  is,  for  the  mode  of  giving  uniform  tension  to  each 
thread  of  weft  or  filling,  by  means  of  a  finger  or  pusher  at  each  sel- 
vage of  the  cloth,  working  in  a  groove  cut  in  the  lay  ;  which  fingers 
draw  or  push  the  weft  thread  toward  the  cloth  at  each  pick  of  the 
shuttle.  Mr.  B.  also  claims  the  grasping  of  the  weft  thread  at  a 
point  between  the  shuttle  and  the  selvage  of  the  cloth,  by  bars,  or 
by  a  pair  of  pliers,  in  connection  with  the  fingers  for  tightening  up 
the  weft,  as  already  described.  Both  of  these  inventions  are  ours, 
and  are  included  in  our  patents.  In  the  beginning  of  the  year  1834 
we  laboured  under  great  difficulty  in  weaving  heavy  silk  and 
woollen  goods,  the  warps  being  of  a  sticky  nature,  and  it  was  then 
that  we  applied  these  motions  for  obviating  the  difficulty.  Some  of 
the  most  competent  manufacturers  in  France,  who  saw  these  inven- 
tions in  operation,  were  highly  delighted  with  them  ;  and  from  the 
testimonials  at  the  end  of  this  work,  it  will  be  seen,  that  they  were 
acquainted  with  these  motions,  in  connection  with  several  of  our 
other  improvements,  for  upwards  of  nine  years  previous  to  our  leav- 
ing France,  in  1841.  See  also  Enoch  Burt's  patent  of  19th  August, 
1828,  page  403. 

The  fourth  claim  is  comprised  in  our  patents  already  referred  to, 
and  we  need  not,  therefore,  make  any  observations  upon  it  here. 

We  have  already  made  some  remarks  on  Mr.  Bigelow's  counter- 
pane loom  (see  pages  446  to  449),  the  patent  for  which  is  dated  30th 
May,  1842 ;  and  we  would  just  state  in  this  place,  what  we  before 
hinted,  that  without  the  motions  taken  from  Tompkins  and  Gilroy's 
loom,  and  from  "Cross's  counterpoise  harness,"  the  counterpane 
loom  would  be  no  loom  at  all ;  as  it  is,  however,  it  answers  the  pur- 
pose very  well. 

We  make  the  following  extract  from  the  specification  of  a  patent, 
bearing  date  May,  1839,  granted  to  us  in  the  name  of  Moses  Poole, 
of  the  Patent  Office.  London  : — 

"  The  tenth  part  of  the  invention  consists,  in  drawing  up  or  tight- 
ening the  weft  thread  or  threads  at  each  and  every  throw  of  the 
shuttle,  so  as  to  prevent  any  loose  threads  or  loops,  or  any  other  un- 
evenness  in  the  cloth  woven,  or  being  wove  in  the  loom  to  which 
this  new  mechanism  is  applied,  which,  it  must  be  acknowledged,  is 
a  matter  of  no  small  importance  to  the  manufacturer ;  for  it  is  well 
known  that  even  in  hand  looms  there  is  often  the  greatest  possible 


484  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

difficulty  to  the  weaver,  or  person  who  tends  looms,  to  keep  the  weft 
thread  always  straight,  that  is  to  say,  that  when  the  shuttle  receives 
its  motion  from  one  side  of  the  loom  to  the  other  opposite  side,  that 
the  weft  thread  in  the  opening  of  the  warp  yarn  will  have  the  ap- 
pearance of  a  crooked  line,  or  zig-zag,  in  and  out,  or  similar  to  a 
thread  of  woollen  yarn  ravelled  or  taken  out  of  an  old  stocking  ; 
this  has  always  been  a  source  of  the  very  greatest  embarrassment 
to  the  weaving  community,  and  more  particularly  so  to  the  manu- 
facturers of  silk,  woollen  and  such  like  sticky  or  gummy  yarns ; 
for,  as  I  have  befoie  observed,  the  weft  thread  must  be  woven  into 
the  cloth  in  a  very  loose  and  imperfect  manner,  unless  something  is 
done  to  remedy  that  evil,  and  this  is  the  case  more  particularly  in 
looms  worked  by  power.  And  I  would  further  remark,  that  it  is 
well  known  to  all  manufacturers  and  weavers  in  general,  that  there 
never  has,  up  to  this  present  time,  been  any  effectual  remedy 
found  out  to  do  away  with  the  above  mentioned  evil,  and  particu- 
larly so  in  power  looms  ;  for  it  must  at  once  be  perceived  by  the 
most  inexperienced  manufacturer  or  weaver,  that  unless  the  surface 
or  texture  of  the  cloth  or  fabric  woven  is  perfectly  smooth  and 
of  a  glossy  appearance,  something  like  the  surface  of  a  mirror,  then 
the  cloth  or  fabric  will  not  be  so  good  either  in  appearance  or  in  sub- 
stance. But  by  means  of  this  invention  or  improvement,  all  these 
above  mentioned  evils  will  be  annihilated,  and  done  away  with ; 
the  construction  and  adaption  of  which  will  be  readily  understood 
by  every  experienced  manufacturer  or  mechanic  who  is  acquainted 
with  looms  and  machinery  in  general ;  neither  is  it  subject  to  derange- 
ment in  any  way  whatever,  when  once  adopted  to  any  loom  or  looms, 
whether  such  loom  or  looms  are  worked  by  steam  or  other  powei-." 

Then  follows  a  description  of  the  invention,  including  several  dif- 
ferent modifications  of  it,  applicable  to  various  kinds  of  looms  ;  and 
the  patentee  further  observes  : — 

"  Having  described  the  various  parts  of  the  invention  or  improve- 
ments in  looms,  the  manner  of  their  woiking  is  as  follows,  namely: 
as  soon  as  the  shuttle  has  entered  the  lay  box,  after  having  been 
driven  through  the  shed  as  in  other  looms,  and  when  the  lay  is 
about  half  its  full  course  or  distance  forward  towards  the  fell  of  the 
cloth,  then  the  said  finger  or  curved  lever-piece  will  push  forward 
the  weft  thread  or  threads  before  the  warp  threads  descend  or  close 
together,  and  also  before  the  reed  comes  into  contact  with  the 
cloth." 

The  patentee  next  refers  to  the  figures  contained  in  the  patent, 
and  afterwards  claims  as  follows  : — 


FIGURED   WEAVING.  485 

"  Havins^  now  described  the  invention  or  improvement  m  looms, 
and  the  manner  of  carrying  the  same  into  effect,  I  would  remark, 
that  of  course  I  place  one  motion  at  each  selvage  of  the  cloth,  so 
that  the  weft  thread  will  be  drawn  from  each  side  of  the  cloth  being 
woven ;  and  I  would  further  remark,  that  I  do  claim  as  the  inven- 
tion the  arrangement  of  apparatus  for  the  purpose  above  described 
of  dratrivg  or  tightening  the  weft  thread  or  threads  of  a  fabric  or 
fabrics,  in  whatever  way  the  same  may  be  applied,  so  long  as  the 
principle  of  the  invention  is  retained,  that  of  pushing  or  carrying 
foriDard  whatever  part  of  the  weft  thread  may  remain  loose, 
slack  or  kinked  in  the  warp  opening  after  the  shuttle  has  received 
its  impidse  as  aforesaid,  and  I  do  also  claim  the  application  of  the 
same  to  all  looms,  whether  such  looms  are  worked  by  steam  or  other 
power." 

Although  in  all  Mr.  Bigelow's  claims  just  referred  to,  we  have,  we 
regret  to  say,  not  been  able  to  discover  any  new  feature,  yet  this 
gentleman  is  the  patentee  of  another  loom,  for  weaving  coach-lace 
by  power,  with  Jacquard  machinery,  of  which  we  have  formed  a 
very  favourable  opinion.  We  think  this  loom  evinces  much  inge- 
nuity in  its  construction,  and  is  decidedly  the  best  machine  for  weav- 
ing coach-lace  yet  introduced.* 

The  importance  of  the  fine  arts  in  connection  with  manufactures, 
has  been  so  much  felt  in  Great  Britain,  that  the  subject  was  investi- 
gated by  a  Select  Committee  of  the  House  of  Commons,  in  1835  ; 
and  the  evidence  then  brought  forward  is  highly  valuable,  being  de- 
rived from  the  experience  of  some  of  the  most  eminent  British  artists 
and  manufacturers.  We  have  carefully  examined  the  information 
thus  furnished,  and  as  it  is  well  worthy  the  attention  of  all  manu- 
facturers of  figured  goods,  we  think  it  may  very  properly  be  intro- 
duced into  this  work.  We  accordingly  proceed  to  quote  the  evidence 
of  the  late  M.  Claude  Guillotte,  and  shall  follow  with  that  of  other 
distinguished  gentlemen. 

M.  Claude  Guillotte,  examined  :  I  am  a  maker  of  Jacquard 
looms,  and  of  all  sorts  of  looms  for  silk  manufacture,  and  of  French 
bar  looms,  by  Premaillerre,  upon  which  (the  bar  looms)  from  ten  to 
thirty  ribbons  at  a  time  may  be  manufactured,  and  the  w'hole  of  the 
machinery  conducted  by  a  young  man.  Of  those,  I  manufactured 
150,  at  several  times,  and  for  several  parties  ;  and  they  were  the  very 
first  ever  introduced  to  this  country,  and  for  which  machinery  I  took 

*  A  correct  copj'of  the  specification  and  drawings  of  this  loom  will  be  given 
in  our  promised  work  on  carpeting. 


486  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

out  a  patent.     Jacquard  machinery  adapts  itself  to  all  sorts  of  tissue. 
I  made  three  years  ago  the  most  complicated  machine  ever  produced 
in  England,  with  4.600  threads,  at  a  cost  of  50/.,  and  before  it  was 
put  in  order  and  set  to  work,  it  cost  100/.  (.:<o00,00) ;  it  was  for 
weaving  napkins  and  table-cloths,  and  was  worked  by  one  man.    I 
al?o  made  many  of  the  Jacquard  machines,  with  1.600  to  1.700 
threads  for  smaller  table  hnen.     Of  late.  I  am  making  Jacquard 
machines,  by  hundreds,  for  all  parts  of  England,  where  they  had 
not  been  introduced  before.     For  Yorkshire,  I  am  particularly  en- 
gaged at  present  making  them  for  merinos  and  damasks,  and  the 
same  for  Bolton  and  Manchester ;  I  have  agents  at  Manchester  and 
Bolton ;  and  I  have  been  engaged  in  making  them  at  Coventry  for 
ribbons.     There  are  from  7,000  to  S,000  Jacquard  looms  in  opera- 
tion in  the  country,  and  there  has  been  an  extraordinary  increase  in 
tlie  demand  ;  for  the  silk  manufacture.  I  received  in  London  orders 
for  six,  eight,  and  ten  at  a  time  ;  in  Yorkshire,  I  received  orders 
for  from  sixty  to  eighty  at  a  time  ;  and  for  worsted  manufactures, 
the  demand  is  also  considerable.*     The  demand  commenced  about 
eleven  years  ago,  and  has  become  much  more  active  of  late  in  York- 
shhe :  and  yet,  I  was  four  years  ago  in  Yorkshire,  at  Halifax,  Hud- 
dersfield;  and  tlie  surrounding  country,  with  an  interpreter,  taking 
with  me  half  a  dozen,  and  there  was  no  individual  willing  to  pur- 
chase one  ;  and  after  my  return,  I  received  an  order  for  one  machine, 
in  order  to  make  an  experiment ;  it  succeeded,  and  the  consequence 
was,  an  order  from  the  same  individual,  a  Mr.  Gill,  to  manufacture 
more  than  100  such  machines,  and  there  was  a  demand  at  any 
price  from  every  body.     These  were  to  re-place  the  old  mechanism, 
which  was  employed  in  producing  small  patterns  ;  those  are  princi- 
pally used  for  waistcoats.     The  demand  could  not  of  course  continue 
so  great  as  it  was  :  but  there  is  still  a  demand,  principally  for  me- 
rinos and  damasks.     In  Scotland  I  have  an  agent,  but  I  do  not  do 
much,  the  price  of  the  cards  for  the  manufacture  of  Scotch  shawls 
being  too  high.     The  ditiiculty  of  applying  these  cards  to  shawl- 
making  is,  that  for  the  production  of  a  beautiful  pattern,  5,000  or 
6,000  are  required,  which  makes  the  machinery  too  expensive.!     At 
Norwich,  a  good  many  were  sold  one  or  two  years  ago,  but  they  are 
espensive,  and  it  has  prevented  its  being  much  applied  to  the  siUc 
manufacture.     In  Scotland,  they  use  a  draw-boy  instead  of  a  Jac- 

*  There  are  probably  at  this  time  (1844)  30,000  Jacquard  machines  in  opera- 
tion in  Great  Britain. 

t  For  some  of  the  finer  species  of  shawls,  now  produced  in  Europe,  as 
many  as  from  12,000  to  20,C00  cards  are  used. 


FIGURED    WEAVING.  487 

quard :  in  Scotland  and  Norwicli,  the  number  of  cards  which  are 
neceseiary  for  the  production  of  a  figure  make  the  employment  of 
Jacquard  machines  much  more  expensive.  Sometimes  I  employ 
foreign  workmen  in  the  manufacture  of  my  machines,  but  they 
leave  me  when  they  can  better  their  condition  ;  and  a  good  work- 
man, such  as  I  employ,  will  get  thirty  shillings  ($7,50)  a  week.  I 
think  the  price  is  lower  here  than  it  is  in  France,  and  I  account  for 
it  thus :  because  I  carry  on  the  luhole  of  the  nianvfacture  in  my 
own  worksJiops  ;  while  in  France  the  production  of  a  Jacquaid  ma- 
chine is  divided  among  the  workshops  of  several  persons.*  There 
are  only  two  principal  makers  here,  but  the  competition  between 
those  two  is  so  great  that  the  prices  are  kept  low.  Many  inexperi- 
enced persons  have  made  attempts  to  make  the  machi7ies,  but 
have  not  been  able  to  compete  with  those  who  had  more  experience, 
and  they  have  failed  in  producing  the  article  as  cheaply  as  we 
do.  I  employ  from  thirty  to  forty  workmen  in  Spitalfields.  The 
operation  of  adapting  the  design  to  the  loom  is  this  : — First,  the  de- 
sign or  pattern  to  be  produced  on  the  cloth  is  drawn  on  paper,  and 
exhibited  for  approbation  ;  it  shows  on  paper  what  it  is  intended  to 
be  on  the  cloth  ;  as  the  threads  are  very  minute,  they  are  then  as  it 
were  extended  on  another  paper,  design-paper,  of  a  larger  size,  which 
shows  the  pattern  as  it  were  magnified,  in  order  to  place  so  many 
threads  to  the  inch,  perhaps  twenty,  that  every  square  may  represent 
a  thread.  This  is  what  the  French  call  "wise  en  carte,'"  and  in 
English,  "  put  upon  rule-paper."t  The  next  process  the  rule-paper 
undergoes  is,  to  be  read  in,  which  transfers  the  pattern  from  the 
rule-paper,  and  prepares  it  fully  for  the  stamping  or  cutting  of  the 
cards.  The  rest  of  the  process  is  mechanical,  consisting  of  punch- 
ing holes  in  the  cards,  according  to  the  number  required,  and 
applying  the  card  to  the  machine.  I  have  seen  200  boys 
employed  in  weaving  the  richest  figures  in  the  loom.  To  so 
simple  a  process  is  the  principle  of  weaving  now  reduced,  that 
even  boys  of  sixteen  years  of  age  are  set  to  weave  the  figures  of  so 
complicated  a  nature,  as  formerly  would  have  required  men  of  thirty 
years'  experience.  In  some  departments  of  this  process,  the  man- 
ufacture is  superior  in  England,  in  others  in  France.  Plain  silks, 
if  manufactured  with  the  same  materials,  the  production  will  be 

*  This  is  not  the  case  in  France  now,  as  every  Jacquard  maker  of  any  note 
completes  his  machines  in  his  own  workshops. 

f  The  term  designing  means  in  France,  drawing  the  first  outline  of  the  pat- 
tern, answering  to  what  we  call  sketching ;  and  the  term  mise  en  carte 
answers  to  our  term  designing,  or  transferring  the  pattern  to  the  design-paper. 


488  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

equal  in  England  as  in  France  ;  figured  silks  are  equal,  as  respects 
the  mere  manufacture  ;  and  there  are  two  points  of  inferiority,  the 
designing  and  the  7nise  en  carte.  One  particular  reason  for  inferi- 
ority in  England,  which  has  much  struck  me.  is;  the  exorbitant 
price  of  cards.  In  the  woollen  manufacture,  the  cards  which  have 
been  used  for  woollen  goods  have  been  returned  to  the  Excise.  A 
return  of  duty  has  been  obtained.  I  think  tliat.  if  the  same  thing 
were  done  with  the  Jacquard  cards,  it  would  have  a  tendency  to 
diminish  the  price.  Though,  generally  speaking,  the  price  is  about 
equal  in  the  two  countries  ;  yet  in  the  reading  the  designs  tiiere  is 
this  enormous  difference ;  the  average  price  in  France  is  three  francs, 
or  half-a-crown  sterling  :  in  England,  the  price  was  a  long  time  155. ; 
it  came  down  to  IO5.,  and  I  now  charge  S5.  per  hundred  I  attri- 
bute that  to  two  causes,  the  presence  of  silk  manufacturers,  which 
has  created  a  greater  competition  and  a  greater  necessity  for  activity. 
This  activity  commenced  in  the  year  1S23,  but  since  1S26  the 
activity  and  competition  has  greatly  increased.  The  consequence 
of  this  competition  has  been  also  the  introduction  of  a  great  many 
French  designers  to  settle  here.  The  French  designer  understands 
the  inise  en  carte  (putting  on  rule  paper)  better  than  the  English 
designer ;  and  the  French  metteur  en  carte,  understands  design 
better  than  the  English  metteur  en  carle.  The  reason  that  occa- 
sions this  great  difference  between  the  ywe^^ewr  ew  cartes  and  design- 
ers of  England  and  France,  is,  that  the  designers  themselves  are 
obliged  to  put  it  on  the  rule-paper,  and  previous  to  that  go  through 
every  branch  of  the  business  (including  the  iceaving),  and  this  is 
undoubtedly  the  cause  that  they  are  more  perfect.  I  do  not  mean 
to  say  that  they  design  better  in  France  than  here ;  but  there  is 
a  much  greater  number  of  designers  of  the  same  capabilities  in 
France  than  here.  In  consequence  of  the  encouragement  the  French 
designers  receive,  they  are  both  more  numerous  and  more  talented, 
although  there  are  individuals  in  England  equally  as  clever,  and 
with  a  profound  knowledge  of  their  art.  The  artist  who  draws  the 
designs  at  Lyons  is  the  artist  generally  employed  to  transfer  them  to 
the  rule-paper.  This  person,  whom  I  consider  the  metteur  en  carte, 
is  only  employed  in  that ;  he  is  inferior  here.  In  L3'ons,  in  a  great 
number  of  instances,  there  is  never  a  design  drawn  at  all ;  but  the 
first  production  of  the  design  is  on  the  rule-paper.  The  i?iefteur  en 
carte  is  himself  an  artist.  It  is  in  the  connexion  between  the  arts 
and  the  manufactures  that  we  are  inferior.  In  France  a  manufac- 
turer employs  from  three  to  four  artists,  and  in  England  one  artist 
supplies  from  eight  to  ten  manufacturers.     An  indifferent  artist  em- 


FIGURED    WEAVING.  489 

ployed  in  painting  the  patterns  on  the  ruled  paper  may  be  obtained 
for  501.  ($250,00)  a-year,  but  there  are  men  whose  services  are  worth 
400^.  a-year,  or  even  a  share  of  the  manufacture.  The  sale  of  the 
fancy  trade  entirely  depends  upon  the  taste  and  abilities  of  the 
designer.  In  France  there  are  often  only  one  or  two  artists  who 
are  paid,  and  who  get  from  ISO/,  to  200/.  a-year,  but  there  are  sev- 
eral who  give  their  services  for  the  instruction  they  receive.  The 
metteur  en  carte  should  be  well  instructed  in  designing.  He  should 
also  be  acquainted  with  manufactures  in  theory  and  in  principle. 
They  are  so  at  Lyons,  but  they  are  not  so  in  Great  Britain.  The 
Jacquard  loom  was  first  adopted  at  hyons  after  the  Revolution. 
Before  the  invention  of  the  Jacquard  machine,  eight  or  ten  years 
were  required  to  make  a  good  workman  ;  afterwards  six  months 
were  sufficient.  For  ten  years  after  the  discovery,  the  machinery 
remained  with  very  Httle  influence,  but  designers  increased  with  the 
introduction  of  the  machine.  From  the  year  1808  to  1810  the  ma- 
chine was  brought  into  activity,  but  at  that  period  it  was  very 
imperfect.  In  1814  it  was  much  improved,  and  in  1815  it  was 
fairly  established.  When  France  possessed  the  monopoly  of  the 
Jacquard  machine,  it  gave  her  great  advantage  in  other  countries. 
France  has  only  by  great  exertions  produced  better  and  cheaper 
than  they.  There  is  a  school  of  design  at  Lyons.  The  young 
artists  have  since  the  discovery  of  M.  Jacquard  particularly  turned 
their  attention  to  the  7nise  en  carte.  There  has  been  a  great 
augmentation  of  such  young  artists ;  indeed,  there  were  no  such  art- 
ists before ;  for  it  was  found  requisite  to  set  up  Jacquard  machines 
in  the  school  of  design.  This  lasted  two  or  three  years  only  ;  they 
now  obtain  the  required  knowledge  of  the  loom  out  of  the  school. 
The  discovery  of  the  Jacquard  loom  infinitely  multiplied  the  number 
of  young  artists,  who  devoted  themselves  to  the  mise  en  carte.  The 
great  advantage  of  Jacquard  machinery,  is  this,  that  it  enables  that 
to  be  done  in  a  few  weeks,  which  before  occupied  months  ;  and  that 
the  change  of  a  pattern  formerly  was  a  long,  laborious,  and  costly 
affair,  and  now  it  is  a  very  simple  one,  and  may  be  done  in  a  few 
minutes  after  the  completion  of  the  reading  and  the  stamping  or 
cutting  of  the  cards.  In  France,  in  ordinary  cases,  our  artists  re- 
ceive six  months'  instruction  in  the  theory  of  the  manufacture  before 
they  are  called  into  the  field  of  practice,  after  they  have  been  in- 
structed in  the  school  of  design  at  Lyons ;  or  artists,  during  their 
instruction,  must  pass  two  hours  a  day  to  understand  the  theory  of 
the  application  of  the  design  relative  to  the  machine.  There  are 
private  instructors  who  give  those  lessons  in  the  school  of  design  at 

62 


490  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

Lyons ;  they  also  give  instructions  in  the  tnise  en  carte,  making 
their  talent  practical.  The  EngHsh  copy  the  good  French  patterns 
and  the  French  copy  the  good  English  patterns.  The  best  English 
designs  are  those  on  cotton  goods ;  but  the  English  do  ?wt  iinder- 
statid  the  mise  en  carte.  We  sometimes  make  good  copies  from 
English  patterns  for  the  Spitalfields  looms  from  the  English  printed 
muslins,  but  it  requires  taste  and  knowledge  to  arrange  them.  The 
French  manufacturer  can  come  with  patterns  every  year  to  England, 
bringing  with  him  samples  of  them  on  the  cloth,  whilst  the  English 
manufacturer  only  brings  it  on  the  paper  ;  the  cause  of  that  is,  the 
French  manufacturer  employs  weavers  who  are  solely  engaged  in 
the  production  of  patterns,  and  as  the  pattern  on  the  cloth  shows 
more  distinctly  the  effect  than  the  drawing  on  paper,  it  gives  them 
an  advantage  in  the  market.  There  are  individuals  who  are  en- 
gaged, and  who  collect  at  Paris  the  patterns  in  vogue  there,  which 
they  bring  and  dispose  of  in  England,  and  they  also  carry  to  the 
continent  such  patterns  as  they  can  collect  here  for  the  purpose  of 
sale.  These  only  serve  as  mere  ideas;  in  the  execution  of  the 
working  drawings  the  French  improve  upon  ns.  If  there  were  a 
school  of  design  established  in  London,  its  effects  in  three  years 
would  be  so  to  equalize  the  manufactures  of  the  two  countries,  that 
the  country  in  which  they  were  produced  would  not  be  recognis- 
able.* The  principal  dilficulties  in  the  way  of  improvement  in  the 
silk  manufacture  are,  first,  the  high  duty  07i  paper.  The  high 
price  of  paper  has  this  injurious  effect,  that  the  manufacturer  is  very 
unwilling  to  change  his  patterns.  There  is  a  difference  between 
the  cost  in  France  and  England  ;  it  is  as  one  to  four.  The  English 
card  is  superior  to  the  French  ;  but  that  makes  little  difference,  be- 
cause it  is  never  worn  out,  a  new  pattern  being  always  introduced 
before  the  cards  are  damaged  or  worn.  The  two  disadvantages  I 
consider  are  these,  the  higher  price  of  the  cards,  and  the  inferi- 
or if  y  of  the  metteur  en  carte.  With  respect  to  colours,  I  think,  in 
a  great  many  cases,  where  there  is  an  apparently  greater  beauty  in 
the  French  dyes,  they  are  much  less  permanent  than  those  of 
England,  and  I  have  seen  many  examples  where,  after  a  few  weeks' 
wearing,  the  French  colours  have  wholly  faded. 


"I  take  the  liberty  of  making  the  following  remarks  about  design- 
ing and  mise  en  carte  ;  for  as  this  is  the  very  head  part  of  all  that 

*  French  patterns  hav-e  still  the  ascendancy  in  Great  Britain  (1344'). 


FIGURED   WEAVING.  491 

belongs  to  the  weaving  department,  and.  at  the  same  time,  is  the 
very  least  cultivated  in  this  country,  it  is  before  any  thing  else  the 
most  worthy  of  your  attention  and  consideration.  For  as  long  as 
this  branch  of  the  business  is  not  highly  improved,  and  proper  schools 
for  design  and  7nise  en  carte  erected,  and  children,  who  already 
have  acquired  the  practical  and  theoretical  part  of  weaving,  are  en- 
gaged and  trained  up  in  this  art,  France  will  always  have  to  boast 
over  England  of  the  honour  of  sending  more  fancy  patterns,  and 
finer  and  more  beautiful  workmanship,  and,  in  fact,  brought  to 
the  highest  state  of  perfection.  But,  on  the  contrary,  if  it  should 
meet  with  your  Honourable  Committee's  approbation,  and  get  en- 
couragement to  bring  it  into  fulfilment,  and  to  get  such  schools 
erected  in  some  quarter  of  Spitalfields,  or  its  arrondissement,  there  is 
no  doubt  whatever,  that  the  English  manufacturers  will  soon  rival, 
if  not  altogether  equal,  the  French  manufacture,  and  thus  throw  off 
the  sliame  of  seeing  foreign  manufactures  surpass  the  English  in 
quality  and  workmanship. 

"Your  very  humble  servant, 

"Claude  Guillotte." 

Mr.  Robert  Harrison,  examined  :  In  designs  and  patterns  in 
the  silk  trade  we  are  very  inferior  to  the  French  ;  and  that  is  the 
principal  difficulty  under  which  we  labour  at  the  present  time.  We 
have  not  been  able  to  find  persons  in  this  country  who  are  capable 
of  giving  proper  designs  ;  the  principal  difficulty  arises  from  the  cir- 
cumstance of  men  not  having  been  brought  up  in  this  country  to 
design  for  silk  ;  it  is  very  different  to  designing  for  printers,  fro7)i 
the  circimistance  that  it  is  necessary  a  man  shoidd  be  conversant 
with  the  principle  of  weaving  before  he  can  make  a  proper  de- 
sign for  silk.  If  we  could  only  get  designs  in  this  country,  we 
should  be  able  to  find  parties  that  could  put  them  on  ruled  paper  for 
weaving.  There  is  nothing  but  what  we  could  make,  provided  we 
had  a  proper  designer  for  the  purpose  of  drawing  patterns  for  weav- 
ing ;  and  I  think  the  principal  difficulty  arises  from  the  circum- 
stance of  not  having  any  sciiool  of  arts  in  this  country,  where  young 
men  would  be  enabled  to  pursue  their  studies  for  the  purpose  of  per- 
fecting themselves  in  drawing  for  that  particular  branch  of  the 
manufacture.  There  is  no  want  of  talent  in  the  country,  because 
there  are  a  great  many  persons  engaged  exclusively  in  the  produc- 
tion of  designs  for  printed  cottons,  cliallies,  and  bandannas  ;  we 
have  in  the  trade  individuals  who  can  draw  patterns,  but  are 
not  conversant  with  the  principle  of  weaving,  and  therefore  we 


492  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

have  been  unable  to  init  those  patterns  to  work.  We  have  now 
many  patterns  by  us  which  are  perfectly  useless,  because  the  draw- 
ing is  not  adapted  to  weaving.  We  would  willingly^  at  the  pres- 
ent time,  engage  a  man  at  a  handsome  salary,  conversant  with 
the  principle  of  weaving,  as  a  designer,  and  also  able  to  put  the 
pattern  upon  paper.  Foreigners  are  not  superior  to  us  in  their 
colours ;  there  is  a  brightness  in  their  colours  we  certainly  do  not 
possess,  but  I  think  our  colours  are  more  permanent.  The  dyeing 
of  colours  has  certainly  improved  within  the  last  few  years,  and  in 
many  cases,  the  permanency  of  colours  decidedly  is  more  than  the 
French.  It  is  necessary  to  have  a  perfect  chemical  knowledge  be- 
fore a  man  cari  be  a  good  dyer.  I  understand  the  pecuhar  bril- 
liancy of  the  French  colours  arises  from  the  climate  more  than  any 
thing  else,  and  the  water  has  something  to  do  with  it  as  well.  It 
has  occurred  to  me,  if  we  had  a  school  of  arts  established  in  this 
country,  that  a  great  many  young  men  would  be  willing  to  make 
themselves  conversant  with  the  principle  of  weaving,  for  the  purpose 
of  procuring  that  particular  study,  and  ultimately  to  become  design- 
ers and  drawers  upon  ruled  paper  for  the  silk  trade.  It  would  be  a 
lucrative  profession. 

Mr.  John  Hoivell,  (of  the  firm,  of  Howell  and  Jam,es,  Regent 
street),  examined  :  The  manner  of  choosing  our  patterns  or  goods 
is  as  follows :  it  is  usual  for  the  Lyons  manufacturers  to  come  twice 
a  year  to  England,  that  is,  in  the  spring  for  the  autumn,  and  the 
autumn  for  the  spring,  and  they  produce  perhaps  200  or  300  pat- 
terns, not  paper  patterns,  but  silk  patterns  or  gauze  patterns,  or 
whatever  it  may  be,  and  from  these  patterns  we  make  our  selection  ; 
and  it  sometimes  happens  that  we  have  so  good  an  opinion  of  cer- 
tain patterns,  that  we  say,  "  You  must  withdraw  that,  it  must  be 
made  for  us  only,"  and  for  20  or  30  pieces  they  will  do  that.  Now 
the  English  manufacturers  never  give  us  that  advantage,  they  think 
it  very  expensive  to  put  to  work  a  pattern  to  show  us  the  effect  of  it, 
for  it  looks  so  different  on  paper  to  what  it  is  in  reality,  that  we  cannot 
decide  whether  we  shall  have  it  or  not,  and  we  often  urge  them  to 
bring  us  a  little  piece  ready,  to  see  the  effect  of  it ;  sometimes  we 
want  colour,  sometimes  we  want  a  little  change  in  the  disposition  ; 
but  there  has  always  been  an  objection  to  the  expense  incurred,  and 
therefore  we  are  obliged  to  bear  the  expense  if  we  are  content  to 
order  from  a  paper  pattern  ;  we  have  sometimes  found  it  necessary 
to  ask  for  a  pattern-drawer  or  designer ;  not  a  pattern-drawer  be- 
cause they  are  distinct  businesses.  I  never  found  a  good  designer 
in  England ;  a  pattern-drawer  is  a  different  thing  altogether  ;  he 


FIGURED    WEAVING.  493 

is  the  man  who  puts  the  thing  comparatively  to  work,  as  an  archi- 
tect designs  the  building  of  a  house.  Neither  have  I  found  a  good 
puttern-draiper ;  the  designer  gives  us  a  small  pattern,  and  the 
pattern-drawer  is  the  person  who  prepares  the  work  ;  as  an  architect 
gives  a  drawing  to  the  builder,  so  does  the  designer  to  the  pattern- 
drawer.  I  think  that  there  are  not  so  many  persons  capable  of 
doing  it  in  this  country  as  in  France  ;  the  pattern-draw'er  is  the  me- 
dium between  the  designer  and  the  weaver.  After  the  Peace  with 
France,  1  found  the  manufactures  of  that  country  were  superior  to 
those  of  England  ;  I  mean  in  regard  to  silks  of  all  descriptions  ;  but 
I  think  a  great  deal  of  that  arose  out  of  having  made  use  of  better 
material ;  the  natural  silk  of  France  has  been  considered  better 
than  any  other  country,  but  now  we  have  an  importation  of  that 
natural  silk,  and  it  is  manufactured  here.  The  importation  of  raw 
silk  from  France,  by  reason  of  its  superior  quality,  has  beneficially 
acted  upon  the  English  manufacture ;  I  found  their  silks  better  the 
moment  I  had  an  opportunity  to  go  and  see  them  ;  but  I  have  found 
them  declining  every  day  since ;  every  time  I  go  to  France,  I  find 
the  French  silks  are  not  so  good  as  they  used  to  be  in  point  of  ma- 
terial and  workmanship  ;  they  appear  to  be  desirous  of  a  large  trade 
rather  than  a  small  good  trade  ;  the  English  manufacture  has  im- 
proved in  a  greater  ratio  perhaps  since  then.  France  is  superior  to 
us  in  design  ;  but  it  is  confined  to  very  few  houses ;  there  is  only 
one  house  at  Lyons  we  can  deal  with  largely,  because  their  taste  is 
always  superior ;  I  am  speaking  of  design.  We  keep  all  our  pat- 
terns ;  'patterns  fifty  years  old  are  very  useful  to  us  at  this 
present  moment.  The  French  pay  great  attention  to  pattern 
shawls ;  they  will  give  three  or  four  hundred  pounds  for  a  Cashmere 
shawl,  or  India  shawl, /or  the  sake  of  the  pattern.  The  shawls 
that  were  exhibited  at  the  Exposition  in  France  were  superior  to  the 
India  shawls  ;  the  patterns  more  perfect.*  Their  patterns  are  supe- 
rior in  the  manufacture,  as  Avell  as  combination  of  colours  and 
design.  It  is  all  superior.  I  believe  they  have  a  superiority  of  ma- 
chinery in  the  manufacture,  and  execution  as  well.  Will  the  Com- 
mittee allow  me  to  exhibit  some  pieces  of  paper,  to  elucidate  the 
connexion  between  silk  and  other  materials,  the  manufactures  of 
this  country  ?  It  shows  how  the  introduction  of  good  patterns  will 
give  a  taste  or  style  to  other  materials  ;  it  is  intended  for  rooms  in 
heu  of  silks  ;  and  instead  of  costing  two  guineas  and  a  half,  a  yard 
would  only  cost  2^.  6(/.     The  inventors  are  De  la  Rue  and  Com- 

*  See  Cashmere  Shawls,  pages  268  to  275. 


494  THE    ART    OF   WEAVING. 

pany,  Bunhill-row. — {Mr.  Howell  then  produced  to  the  Committee 
patterns  of  various  colours.) 

Mr.  Thomas  Field  Gibson,  examined :  I  am  a  silk  manufac- 
turer in  Spitalfields.  The  description  of  figured  silks  which  we  are 
now  making  in  Spitalfields  are  of  a  very  small  and  insignificant 
kind  ;  they  are  not  of  the  large  class  of  patterns.  That  is  the  gen- 
eral class  of  patterns  that  are  now  making.  They  are  almost 
entirely  copies  or  variations  from  French  patterns ;  there  is  but  a 
very  small  degree  of  talent  employed  in  Spitalfields  in  the  production 
of  patterns.  We  are  almost  destitute  of  original  taste  in  that 
particular  department.  The  French  patterns  are  generally  given 
to  the  pattern-makers  by  the  manufacturers,  and  they  either  copy 
precisely,  or  make  variations  as  the  manufacturers,  or  their  own 
taste  may  suggest.  I  am  not  acquainted  with  any  drawer  of  pat- 
terns who  is  an  educated  artist.  A  good  pattern-drawer  may  obtain 
from  100/.  to  200/.  a-year  ;  but  the  remuneration  varies  with  the 
description  of  pattern.  It  is  also  mixed  up  with  a  remuneration 
given  for  reducing  the  design  to  the  mould,  or  cutting  the  card, 
which  is  necessary  for  the  weaving  it  in  the  looms.  I  think  that 
the  two  difficulties  under  which  we  labour  at  present,  are,  first,  that 
we  have  no  protection  for  patterns,  so  that  if  I  make  an  outlay  of 
from  20/.  to  100/.  upon  a  pattern  it  may  be  pirated  to-morrow  by  my 
neighbour,  and  I  should  have  no  compensation  for  it ;  and  the  sec- 
ond difficulty  is,  that  we  have  no  national  taste  in  this  department 
^f  art,  that  we  have  no  originality  in  design  of  drawing  of  pat- 
terns, that  we  are  compelled  to  make  copies  from  French  patterns 
in  order  to  supply  the  demands  of  our  customers.  I  think  a  school 
of  arts  open  to  persons  connected  with  the  manufacture  of  this  coun- 
try would  be  of  high  value  and  importance,  coupled  with  the  protec- 
tion of  patterns ;  but  without  a  protection  of  patterns,  no  school  of 
design  would  be  of  any  advantage  to  us.  It  is  not  to  be  expected 
that  the  master-manufacturers  would  undertake  any  part  of  tlie  ex- 
pense of  such  an  establishment.  The  utmost  that  could  be  expected 
from  them  would  be  to  give  their  time  and  attention  to  the  arrange- 
ment and  working  of  the  system;  and  I  believe  the  fact  is,  that  in 
France  the  Government,  or  the  municipal  authorities,  or  both  to- 
gether, do  pay  for  the  whole  cost  of  the  establishment.  If  the  gen- 
eral taste  of  the  nation  was  improved,  it  would  be  beneficial  to 
our  manufactures  ;  and  I  would  add  that  ours  is  a  manufacture 
which  is  capable  of  such  extreme  variety  in  shades  of  colour,  in  the 
blending  of  shades,  and  in  producing  various  forms  of  pattern,  that 
there  is  hardly  any  one  to  which  the  exhibition  of  all  works  of  art 


FIGURED    WEAVING.  495 

in  which  colours  are  concerned  would  be  more  beneficial.  A  pro- 
tection for  patterns  should  be  for  not  less  than  twelve  months.  I 
can  give  a  reason  why  a  season  or  six  months  would  not  be  a  suffi- 
cient time.  I  was  manufacturing  a  pattern  in  silk  during  the 
spring,  to  the  order  of  a  large  house  of  business  in  London.  I  re- 
ceived orders  from  them  to  continue  the  manufacture  of  the  same 
pattern  in  autumn  colours  ;  but  in  the  last  month  this  pattern  was 
taken  to  Manchester  and  manufactured  there.  The  order  which  I 
had  received  for  the  winter  article  was  immediately  countermanded, 
because  it  was  produced  at  Manchester  at  a  much  less  price.     A 

HEAVY    FINE    SHOULD    BE    INFLICTED    FOR    PIRACY.       Sometimes 

there  are  more  than  100  pieces  of  the  same  pattern.  It  more  often 
happens  that  there  are  less  than  100  ;  more  often  than  not.  Ac- 
cording to  the  average  returns  from  the  Chamber  of  Commerce  at 
Lyons,  the  number  of  pieces  made  of  fancy  goods  of  particular  pat- 
terns does  not  exceed  20  from  the  loom ;  what  is  the  average  pro- 
duction of  England  of  the  same  manufacture,  I  have  no  precise 
knowledge  of — but  I  should  say  double,  at  least  40  pieces.  In 
French  silks,  in  some  cases,  a  very  large  profit  is  paid  to  manu- 
facturers on  condition  that  they  shall  produce  a  small  number,  and 
then  destroy  the  design.  A  pattern  should  be  protected  by  register- 
ing the  actual  pattern.  With  regard  to  printed  goods,  the  custom 
is  for  the  parties  to  print  on  the  end,  "  engaged  for  three  months," 
and  after  that  period  it  may  be  copied  by  any  body  ;  that  would  be 
a  sufficient  protection  if  it  was  extended,  as  I  said  before  to  twelve 
months — whatever  registration  took  place  should  be  a  public  and 
authentic  one.  The  registration  and  location  of  patterns,  represent- 
ing the  state  of  perfection  in  the  particular  trade,  would  be  in  itself 
a  great  means  of  advancing  and  improving  the  manufacture. 
There  are  no  superior  weavers  solely  employed  in  weaving  patterns, 
and  there  is  a  good  reason  why  this  is  so  ;  a  weaver  could  not  him- 
self produce  the  pattern  to  the  manufacturer  in  the  same  way  as  he 
does  at  Lyons,  because  in  London  he  is  not  possessed  of  machinery 
by  which  he  could  do  it;  the  machinery  belongs  to  the  master- 
manufacturer  here,  but  in  Lyons  it  belongs  to  the  weaver.  I  have 
heard  that  in  France  after  the  design  has  been  produced,  the  weaver 
introduces  a  considerable  modification  into  the  pattern  itself. 

Jmnes  Skene,  Esq.,  Secretary  to  the  Board  of  Trustees  for 
the  Encouragement  of  Manufactures  in  Scotlatid  ;  also,  Secre- 
tary to  the  Royal  Institution  for  the  Encouragement  of  the  Fine 
Arts  in  Scotland,  examined :  My  opportunities  of  acquiring  inform- 
ation with  regard  to  the  advantage  which  manufacturers  may  derive 


496  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

from  an  increased  knowledge  of  the  arts  of  design,  have  been  du- 
ring the  greater  period  of  my  life  ;  I  was  edupated  abroad,  and  stayed 
in  one  of  the  foreign  academies  for  three  years,  when  a  young  man, 
and  since  that  period  I  have  been  about  ten  years  in  different  coun- 
tries, and  being  fond  of  art  myself,  I  have  paid  considerable  atten- 
tion to  the  subject.  The  Board  of  Trustees  was  instituted  at  the 
time  of  the  Union  of  England  and  Scotland ;  in  consequence  of 
some  alteration  that  took  place  in  the  customs  and  duties  connected 
with  the  two  countries,  a  sum  of  money  became  due  by  England  to 
Scotland,  payable  to  different  establishments  and  different  individu- 
als. The  surplus  of  that  sum  was  appointed  by  Government  by  the 
15th  article  of  the  Treaty  of  Union  to  be  employed  in  all  time  com- 
ing for  the  encouragement  of  manufactures  in  Scotland.  That 
was  the  origin  of  the  Board  of  Trustees  in  the  year  1707;  at 
that  time  an  annuity  of  2,000^.  was  appointed  to  be  paid  for  seven 
years  to  the  Board.  That  was  the  first  grant.  The  Board,  never- 
theless, was  not  established  till  the  year  1727  ;  there  came  to  be  ac- 
cordingly arrears  of  that  2,000/.  for  seven  years,  which  made  14,00OZ., 
which  was  then  paid  to  the  Board,  as  also  a  sum  of  6,000/.  of  farther 
arrears  after  the  annuity  had  been  made  permanent,  and  laid  the 
foundation  of  their  funded  property.  The  grant  of  the  2,000/.  was 
then  rendered  perpetual,  and  they  have  ever  since  received  that  sum. 
Various  alterations  have  taken  place  in  their  proceedings,  and  their 
funds  have  been  considerably  augmented  ;  some  of  their  funds 
being  in  the  pubhc  securities  during  the  war,  and  exceedingly  well 
managed,  considerable  savings  were  obtained  by  that  means ;  so 
that  now  their  funds  consist,  in  the  first  place,  of  the  annuity  of 
2,000/.  payable  by  government ;  they  have  the  sum  of  30,000/.  at 
present  in  the  hands  of  the  Water  Company  of  Edinburgh,  for 
which  they  receive  the  interest;  they  have  15,000/.  in  the  hands  of 
Mr.  Innis,  of  Lochalsh,  also  yielding  interest ;  they  have  a  sum  of 
1,000/.  in  the  hands  of  the  town  of  Edinburgh,  which  at  present 
yields  no  interest,  as  the  town  is  hajikrupt.  They  built  the  Royal 
Institution,  a  large  building  in  Edinburgh,  for  the  purpose  of  accom- 
modating various  learned  bodies  there  ;  the  Royal  Society,  the  Royal 
Institution  for  the  Encouragement  of  Arts,  and  the  Institution  for 
Antiquities  (the  Antiquarian  Society,  as  they  call  it),  and  also  for  the 
accommodation  of  the  Board  itself ;  they  receive  rents  from  those 
other  societies  which  amount  to  the  annual  rent  of  740/. :  that  con- 
stitutes the  fund.  The  principal  means  which  the  Board  have  fol- 
lowed for  extending  the  knowledge  of  the  arts  among  the  people  of 
Scotland,  has  now  been  in  operation  for  about  seventy  years  :  about 


FIGURED    WEAVING.  497 

seventy  years  ago  they  established  a  school  for  drawing,  being 
aware  of  the  advantage  which  foreigners  possessed  over  this  coun- 
try as  teachers  of  design  at  thai  'period^  they  got  a  person  of  the 
name  of  De  La  Croix,  a  Frenchman  of  considerable  skill,  who  set 
that  institution  a  going ;  it  Avas  for  the  accommodation  of  forty 
pupils  taught  by  one  master,  and  the  pupils  are  admitted  gratis. 
They  offer  specimens  of  their  capacity,  and  certificates  as  to  char- 
acter to  the  Board  of  Trustees,  and  they  judge  of  those  who  are  to 
be  admitted,  giving  the  preference  to  those  who  seem  the  most 
deserving  of  it.  It  is  an  establishment  which  very  soon  rose  into 
great  repute  in  the  country,  and  has  continued  exceedingly  success- 
ful ever  since.  The  number  of  pupils  has  remained  stationary, 
with  only  one  master.  It  has  been  managed  since  its  first  establish- 
ment by  a  series  of  very  eminent  teachers.  The  person  who  now 
holds  it,  Mr.  William  Allen,  is  the  first  artist  in  Scotland.  The 
Board  contemplates  extending  it,  and  they  are  at  present  taking 
measures  for  that  purpose.  Hitherto  it  remains  on  the  same  footing, 
only  forty  pupils,  but  so  great  is  the  demand  of  the  public  for  the 
extension  of  it,  and  so  high  it  stands  in  their  estimation,  that 
although  there  are  about  four  or  five  elections  in  the  course  of  the 
year,  there  generally  are  at  least  ten  candidates  for  every  single  va- 
cancy that  occurs,  and  it  comes  to  be  a  matter  of  very  disagreeable 
administration  to  the  Board  to  reject  so  many  young  men  from  hav- 
ing instruction  in  the  art  of  design,  when  they  seem  desirous  to 
obtain  it.  The  pupils  are  principally  engravers  and  statuaries,  also 
artists,  coach-painters,  house-painters,  and  manufacturers ;  persons 
of  that  kind.  Mr.  Wilkie,  (Sir  David)  was  educated  there,  Mr.  Bar- 
net,  Mr.  Wilson,  Mr.  Allen  himself  I  beheve  there  is  not  an  emi- 
nent name  in  the  history  of  art  connected  with  Scotland  where  the 
individual  has  not  been  educated  at  that  academy.  It  has  produced 
the  most  eminent  men,  either  as  artists,  engravers,  or  as  connected 
with  any  of  the  corresponding  professions ;  in  fact,  it  has  done  a 
world  of  good  to  the  country.  The  candidates  produce  specimens 
of  their  talents  for  drawing ;  they  produce  certificates  of  their  good 
character ;  the  Board  is  very  particular  upon  that  subject :  also  if 
they  are  apprentices  they  produce  certificates  from  their  masters  that 
they  will  give  them  the  means  of  attending,  and  then  all  these  are 
examined  by  the  Board  of  Trustees;  and  that  young  man  whose 
name  perhaps  they  are  ignorant  of,  but  that  young  man  whose 
qualifications  seem  best,  is  the  person  elected.  The  only  preference 
they  seem  disposed  to  give  is  to  the  younger  classes  of  them  in  pre- 
ference to  older  ones.     The  Board  of  Trustees  also  established  a 

63 


498  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

branch  school  for  the  express  purpose  of  teaching  the  pattern  draw- 
ing for  table-cloths,  diaper,  and  matters  of  that  description,  at  the 
town  of  Dianfermline ;  it  was  upon  a  particular  system,  and  the 
Board  encraged  to  give  50/.  a-year  to  a  master,  provided  the  manufac- 
turers of  Dumfermhne  would  contribute  an  equal  sum.  They  did  so. 
and  that  school  was  in  operation  for  a  good  many  years ;  I  do  not 
exactly  recollect  the  number  of  years,  but  for  a  good  many  years 
and  was  exceedingly  beneficial,  and.  in  fact,  was  one  of  the  great 
causes,  in  conjunction  with  the  encouragement  of  premiums  for  the 
best  articles  of  manufacture  given  annually  by  the  Board,  of  raising 
the  establishment  of  linen  manufactures  in  the  town  of  Dumferm- 
hne. Last  year  the  manufacturers  declined  contributing  any  further 
to  it,  because  it  had  been  reduced  to  a  few  only,  who  contributed 
their  proportion,  and  these  few,  two  or  three  of  the  manufacturers, 
said  the  burthen  was  too  hard  upon  them,  and  they  could  not  con- 
tribute any  longer,  wishing  the  Board  to  advance  the  whole  sum  of 
lOOZ.  That  was  incompatable  with  the  idea  the  Board  had  of  en- 
suring the  establishment  which  they  fostered,  being  one  beneficial 
to  the  manufacturers  themselves,  that  they  should  give  the  whole 
sum,  and  therefore  they  declined  giving  it,  and  that  school  has  ac- 
cordingly fallen.  They  found  it  advantageous,  but  the  whole  body 
of  them  were  disinclined  to  contribute  to  it.  There  were  two  or 
three  who  continued  to  contribute  to  the  last,  but  they  found  50Z.  a 
year  was  more  than  they  were  disposed  to  give.  The  master  could 
not  undertake  it  under  1001.,  and  the  Board  was  not  incHned  to 
give  above  50/.,  which  they  originally  proposed.  The  designs  of 
French  shawls  are  almost  confined  to  the  Indian  patterns  ;  but  I 
believe  it  is  the  general  opinion,  that  the  French  have  exceeded 
even  in  that  respect  the  English  in  their  patterns  ;  because  they 
have  turned  their  attentioji  to  if  in  a  more  ejicicnt  manner. 
There  is  a  school  at  this  moment  in  Paris,  where  about  seventy 
pupils  are  instructed  expressly  in  that  particular  branch  of  shawl 
patterns,  taught  by  a  person  who  has  written  a  pamphlet  on  the 
subject :  and  I  believe  the  price  of  their  shawls  is  under  that  of  this 
country.  I  am  not  awaie  whether  the  Mechanics'  Institutions  there 
give  any  instructions  of  the  kind  ;  but  the  Board  of  Trustees  being 
aware  of  the  deficiency  in  that  respect,  has  now  sent  an  exceeding 
clever  artist  to  Paris,  for  the  purpose  of  gaining  information  upon 
that  subject,  whom  they  mean  to  introduce  to  the  Academy  at  Edin- 
burgh, and  to  establish  a  class  for  that  especial  purpose,  not  for 
teaching  shawl  patterns  alone,  but  patterns  in  general  connected 
with   manufactures.     It  appears  to  me  that  the  best  footing  to 


FIGURED    WEAVING.  499 

establish  those  would  be  to  have  a  system  of  instruction ;  a  centrical 
establishment  upon  a  regular  system,  which  should  not  be  deviated 
from  in  any  respect ;  I  have  not  any  doubt  that  in  a  very  short  time 
a  number  of  students  would  be  raised  in  that  centrical  establish- 
ment, who  might  then  be  sent  to  the  different  parts  of  the  country 
where  they  might  be  required,  and  establish  branches  in  commimi- 
cation  with  the  centrical  establishment,  and  under  the  same  regula- 
tions and  the  same  superintendence.  That  at  the  same  time  would 
serve  not  only  as  a  school  for  instruction,  but  also  a  kind  of  haut  ton 
for  the  most  recent  improvements  in  all  the  different  combinations 
of  art  connected  with  manufactures.*  I  should  be  disposed  to  extend 
it  pretty  far  in  that  respect,  particularly  to  make  it  an  establishment 
of  different  classes.  One  of  the  great  defects  in  the  mode  of  instruc- 
tion in  this  country,  is,  that  the  first  branch  of  arf,  namely  the 
fundamental  one,  is  that  which  is  neglected  ;  that  is,  what  is 
called  drawing  from  the  round  ;  it  is,  in  fact,  the  rudiments  of 
design,  the  most  indispensable,  although  the  most  neglected  ;  ex- 
cept the  Royal  Academy  and  that  Academy  of  the  Board  of  Trus- 
tees, I  am  not  aware  any  other  teacher  of  drawing  does  really 
adhere  to  that  system,  which  I  know  in  French  academies  to  be  the 
only  system  that  is  taught,  because  they  conceive  ;  and  it  has  been 
the  opinion,  1  believe,  of  artists  for  many  generations,  as  well  as  the 
old  masters,  that  this  is  the  only  species  of  study  which  is  requisite 
to  form  an  artist.  If  he  has  once  acquired  a  knowledge  of  drawing 
from  the  round,  or  drawing  from  objects  of  beautiful  outline,  and 
containing  means  of  light  and  shade,  that  he  is  enabled  then  to  turn 
his  talent  to  any  of  the  branches  that  he  may  require  without  any 
further  instruction.  In  this  country  we  seem  to  take  a  secondary 
part  of  it ;  to  take  instruction  in  a  more  advanced  part,  and  neglect 
the  rudimental  part.  In  correctness  of  drawing  the  human  figure, 
and  in  the  knowledge  of  proportions,  we  are  very  deficient ;  and  on 

*  An  establishment  on  this  principle  has  been  erected  at  St.  Petersburg,  in 
Russia,  under  the  especial  protection  of  the  Emperor  Nicholas,  where  all  the 
new  improvements  connected  with  manufactures,  introduced  from  Great 
Britain,  France,  Belgium  and  America  are  tested  by  actual  operation  ;  and  as 
soon  as  any  improvement  gives  satisfaction,  it  is  forwarded  to  those  parts  of 
the  country  where  it  is  considered  likely  to  prove  most  advantageous  to  the 
national  interest.  Our  friends,  Messrs.  Sanford  and  Varrell,  machine-makers, 
Paris,  (France)  informed  us,  that  they  had  examined  this  establishment  when 
in  Russia  in  the  year  1840 ;  and  in  their  opinion,  the  plan  is  a  most  excellent 
one  for  advancing  the  manufactures.  These  gentlemen  further  informed  us, 
that  the  concern  was  conducted  by  the  most  talented  mechanics  and  manu- 
facturers, from  Great  Britain,  France,  Belgium  and  America.    See  page  424. 


500  THE    ART    OP   WEAVING. 

that  account  I  would  make  it  a  rule  of  that  establishment,  that  the 
first  class  should  be  that  one  in  which  instruction  is  given  in  chalk 
drawing  on  a  large  scale  from  the  round,  having  a  series  of  second 
classes  where  the  different  branches  connected  with  the  useful  arts 
were  taught,  which  covers  very  many ;  architecture  and  all  other 
branches  connected  with  the  useful  arts,  ornamenting,  decorative, 
house-painters,  and  so  on.  I  would  not  only  make  the  fundamental 
principle  (correctness  of  design)  the  object,  but  also  what  may  be 
termed  the  perspective  in  botany,  and  those  parts  which  are  con- 
nected with  certain  sciences  which  may  be  called  positive  parts  of 
art.  It  appears  to  me,  a  very  little  instruction,  perhaps  a  few 
lectures,  on  this,  as  far  as  it  is  applicable  to  the  useful  arts,  would  be 
sufficient,  that  is,  on  anatomy,  chemistry,  optics,  with  reference  to 
colours  and  botany.  It  appears  to  me  there  is  a  very  great  defect 
in  general  in  our  patterns,  in  botanical  accuracy,  where  flowers  are 
introduced  ;  the  foreign  'pattern-drawers  are  uniformly  correct ; 
our  patter7i-drawers  very  seldom,  so.  I  would  have  a  third  class  for 
the  higher  branches,  and  for  the  purpose  of  artists  ;  but  that  confined 
alone  to  men  whose  object  in  life  was  to  be  artists.  I  would  have  a 
certain  subdivision  of  instruction,  so  that  pupils  coming  there,  and 
wishing  to  devote  themselves  to  the  study  of  casting  in  bronze  or  in 
iron,  or  studying  modelling  silver,  or  turning  themselves  towards  pat- 
tern-drawing on  cotton  or  on  silk  fabrics,  might  have  the  means, 
after  a  certain  time,  of  devoting  their  undivided  attention  to  any  par- 
ticular branch  of  that  kind,  comprehending  the  requisite  acquaint- 
ance with  the  manufacture  itself;  so  that  they  might  go  out  from 
the  institution,  having  chosen  that  division  of  the  subject  most  suited 
to  their  capabilities ;  they  might  go  out  as  manufacturing  artists,  to 
accomplish  the  particular  object  which  they  felt  themselves  most 
particularly  qualified  for.  And  the  purpose  I  should  have  in  divi- 
ding it  into  classes,  would  be  this,  to,  in  fact,  repress  an  error  which 
those  academies  are  exceedingly  liable  to  fall  into,  and  which  the 
academy  of  the  Board  of  Trustees  in  Scotland  has  already  fallen 
into ;  that  is,  of  neglecting"  those  parts  of  the  study  which  apply 
to  the  useful  arts,  and  dedicating  their  attention  alone  to  the  higher 
branches  ;  in  fact,  making  all  the  pupils  study  as  artists,  and  not  as 
men  to  pursue  useful  branches  of  occupation.  It  is  an  exceedingly 
dangerous  thing  to  pursue,  in  such  institutions,  those  portions  of  art 
which  may  be  said  to  be  connected  with  individual  taste  or  individ- 
ual genius,  since  the  tendency  of  so  pursuing  them  must  be  to 
neglect  those  portions  of  art  which  are  positive  and  true,  and 
founded  upon  invariable  principles  of  art.    I  consider  that  the  division 


FIGURED    WEAVING.  501 

into  classes  might  prevent  this  tendency  ;  because,  if  the  first  class 
is  imperative  that  no  pupil  could  enter  the  academy  without  going 
through  a  course  of  the  first  class,  then  he  would  be  enabled  to  turn 
his  talent  to  any  branch  of  design  he  might  choose;  he  may  then 
quit  the  academy.  If  he  chooses  to  follow  out  the  pursuit  to  the 
highest  branches  by  the  recommendation  of  the  master,  he  may  be 
permitted  to  do  so ;  but  it  has  been  experienced  in  those  academies 
in  Scotland,  that  many  pupils  who  come  there  with  a  view  towards 
the  useful  arts,  have  quitted  it  and  become  artists  themselves.  At 
the  Academy  in  Edinburgh,  where  forty  pupils  are  taught,  the  mas- 
ter receives  150/.  a-year,  and  there  is  an  officer  leceiving  50Z.  a-year ; 
and  with  taxes  and  lighting  the  fire,  and  so  on,  there  are  some  other 
expenses,  but  of  no  great  importance,  and  that  is  the  whole  amount 
of  it;  and  supposing  subordinate  schools  were  established  at  Glas- 
gow, Paisley,  Kilmarnock,  and  other  manufacturing  towns  in  kScot- 
land,  I  should  conceive  that  a  sufficient  master  would  be  found  at 
lOOZ.  a-year  to  carry  on  the  establishment.  It  would  not  do  for  a 
master,  at  certain  times,  to  make  circuits  through  the  manufacturing 
districts,  and  give  instructions  for  three  months,  or  some  such  period. 
Drawing  requires  a  little  time ;  and  although  it  does  not  require 
very  great  labour  on  the  part  of  the  master,  it  still  requires  a  certain 
degree  of  superintendance  ;  that  he  sees  what  the  pupils  are  doing ; 
but  it  appears  to  me,  the  more  numerous  an  academy  is,  the  more 
advantage  the  pupil  derives  from  it,  because  he  improves  hy  what 
he  sees  his  neighbours  doing ;  it  does  not  require  much  labour  on 
the  part  of  the  master,  but  it  requires  a  person  to  be  able  to  correct 
where  errors  occur.  In  that  school  of  forty  pupils  I  have  not  any 
doubt,  that,  at  any  period,  six  or  eight  might  be  drawn  from  it  per- 
fectly capable  of  teaching  the  art  of  design.  On  the  supposition  that 
these  establishments  were  formed  and  connected  so  with  the  mother 
establishment  in  Edinburgh,  publicity  should  be  an  essential  ingre- 
dient of  all  their  proceedings,  and  the  state  of  the  school,  the  number 
of  pupils,  and  accounts  of  the  funds,  should  be  annually  laid  before 
Parliament.  It  would  interest  the  public  on  the  subject,  and  the  in- 
terest of  the  jmblic  is  very  much  icanted.  Reports  of  our  academy 
are  made  to  the  King,  that  is  to  say,  to  the  Treasury.  They  are 
not  made  to  Parliament  at  present,  but  they  might  easily  be  ex- 
tended to  Parliament.  The  Board  established  prizes  for  pattern- 
drawing  in  their  academy,  and  a  good  many  very  creditable  speci- 
mens have  been,  within  two  or  three  years,  produced  ;  but  there  is  one 
deficiency  there,  which  shows  the  necessity  of  teaching  for  that 
ni.'itfpr.  v'liich  is  this;  that  mony  nf  ti-ose  itatterns  which  were 


502  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

exceedingly  beautiful,  were  not  altogether  adapted  to  the  opera- 
tive part  of  the  manufacture  ;  the  persons  were  not  conversant 
iDith  looms,  not  conversant  with  manufactures  in  fact,  and  therefore 
they  require  the  means  to  be  provided  of  having  recourse  to  a  mas- 
ter, who  can  instruct  them  in  the  working  of  the  fabric,  whatever  it 
may  be,  to  which  their  pattern  has  been  employed.  Li  Francp, 
the  workmen  is  more  aii  artist  than  in  this  country.  The  system 
in  France  is  very  different,  because  there  the  artists  of  the  first 
eminence  employ  themselves,  and  make  it  the  m^ost  profitable  part 
of  their  time  in  pattern-drawing ,  and  they  are  paid  a  very  high 
price  by  the  rtianufacturers.  There  is  a  legislative  protection  to 
their  work,  which  in  this  country  we  have  not,  and  yet  it  is  of  great 
importance  ;  so  that  for  a  year  (I  believe  that  is  the  period)  both  the 
manufacturer  and  the  artist  is  quite  sure  of  his  pattern  not  being 
pirated.  It  appears  to  me,  that  some  legislative  interference  in  that 
matter  would  be  almost  necessary  to  go  hand  in  hand  with  any  es- 
tablishment for  encouraging  the  art  of  design  amongst  the  middle 
class  of  society  in  this  country,  that  they  may  be  protected  in  the 
production  of  their  genius  ;  otherwise  neither  the  manufacturer  can 
afford  to  risk  the  loss  of  the  pattern,  or  to  pay  a  large  sum  for  the 
pattern  which  he  may  lose,  nor  can  the  artist  risk  it.  On  general 
principles  it  would  be  exceedingly  desirable  that  a  speedy  and  cheap 
remedy  should  be  given  to  the  inventor  of  a  design ;  a  small  sura  to 
be  paid  for  the  right  of  proprietorship.  It  appears  to  me  that  one  thing 
in  which  the  British  manufacturer  is  most  deficient,  is  that  of  a 
knowledge  of  colours ;  at  present,  as  far  as  my  acquaintance  with 
manufacturers  goes,  I  ht\\&ve  they  copy  entirely  their  patterns  from 
France  :  in  doing  so,  if  they  introduce  any  alteration  into  them, 
they  often  spoil  them  ;  and  it  is  a  matter  which  is  not  a  very  diffi- 
cult one  to  obtain  a  knowledge  of,  the  theory  of  colour ;  but  it  is  one 
which  appears  to  me  a  very  singular  circumstance  that  it  is  not  suf- 
ficiently attended  to,  because  we  know  quite  well  that  any  deviation 
from  the  regular  established  and  fixed  rules  of  harmony  of  colours, 
produces  the  same  effect  to  the  eye  as  any  deviation  in  music  from 
the  harmony  of  notes.  It  produces  an  equally  bad  effect ;  and  in 
placing  our  manufactures  or  fancy  goods  along  with  French  fancy 
goods,  it  has  often  struck  me  as  a  remarkable  circumstance  to  see 
how  very  little  those  rules  which  are  exceedingly  simple,  are  attended 
to  in  the  English  copies.  That  was  my  reason  for  suggesting  a 
lecture  on  that  part  of  the  subject,  on  optics,  in  fact,  on  colours,  at 
those  schools  ;  for  the  rules  are  simple,  but  quite  necessary  to  be 
known  to  any  person  who  has  occasion  to  place  colours  in  juxtapo- 


FIGURED    WEAVING.  503 

sition.  The  funds  of  the  Board  have  been  very  much  reduced  this 
last  year ;  they  are  now  exceedingly  small,  but  they  are  at  present 
engaged  in  measures  for  the  extension  of  that  very  object,  because 
it  appeared  to  the  members  of  the  Board  that  that  was  the  most  es- 
sential requisite  for  the  improvement  of  our  manufactures,  because 
it  is  obvious  to  every  one  that  in  point  of  excellency  of  workman- 
ship the  British  manufacturers  have  risen  to  the  highest  pitch  ;  it  is 
only  in  the  taste  of  design  in  lohich  they  are  deficient ;  therefore 
the  Board  of  Trustees  have  particularly  directed  their  attention  to 
that  subject,  as  their  funds  have  been  so  much  reduced  that  they  do 
not  see  they  have  the  means  of  doing  much  else.  In  the  course  of 
this  ensuing  winter  I  expect  that  a  good  deal  will  be  done  on  the 
subject.  The  French  pattern-drawers  have  the  flowers  before  them. 
I  believe,  in  this  country,  when  they  do  make  patterns,  which  is  not 
very  often,  they  take  any  book  of  travels,  containing  flowers,  which 
may  or  may  not  be  correct ;  but  I  know  the  French  artists  copy  from 
the  flower  itself,  and  that,  being  in  the  hands  of  skilful  persons,  it 
is  ahoays  hotajiically  correct.  Academies  might  not  only  be  con- 
nected with  botanic  gardens,  but  also,  to  a  certain  degree,  with  insti- 
tutions in  surgery  ;  for  instance,  anatomy  and  other  branches  con- 
nected more  particularly  with  science  and  art ;  how  it  might  be 
brought  about,  I  am  not  quite  aware,  except  by  employing  persons ; 
there  are  only  professors ;  I  am  perfectly  persuaded  of  the  advan- 
tage that  would  arise  from  it :  I  think  the  improvement  in  matters 
of  taste  in  general  has  been  very  remarkable  in  Scotland  within  a  few 
years,  and  in  dyes  there  has  been  a  very  great  improvement ;  since 
the  Board  of  Trustees  have  given  premiums  for  that  special  purpose, 
there  has  been  a  very  conspicuous  improvement.  In  patterns  the 
improvement  has  also  been  obvious,  but  not  so  very  great  as  yet,  be- 
cause there  is  no  instruction  given  in  it ;  the  young  men  who  present 
these  specimens  of  drawing  are  left  to  themselves,  and  they  fre- 
quently go  wrong  in  many  particulars  ;  it  appears  to  me  there  is  a 
great  deficiency  in  the  want  of  instruction.  The  Board  of  Trustees 
give  2U.  a-year  to  be  divided  into  prizes  for  the  young  men.  There 
are  six  prizes  for  ornamental  drawings,  and  six  prizes  for  drawings 
from  the  round.  The  young  men  produce  the  first  and  the  last  of 
their  performances  during  the  season,  in  order  that  the  Board  may 
be  able  to  compare  their  progress  ;  and  these  are  kept  in  the  posses- 
sion of  the  Board,  not  returned  to  the  young  men.  They  are  also 
exhibited  to  the  public.  The  prizes  given  by  the  Board  of  Trustees 
for  improving  manufacturers'  patterns,  are  very  numerous,  and  vary 
from  year  to  year,  according  as  the  state  of  manufactures  and  the 


504  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING 

state  of  the  demand  for  manufactures  seem  to  require,  also  according 
as  it  appears  to  the  Board  that  there  are  particular  branches  of  man- 
ufacture which  might  be  convenient!}'  and  advantageously  introduced 
into  this  country  ;  therefore  the  premiums  which  they  have  offered 
have  varied  from  year  to  year.  Their  principle  is  that  they  shall  not 
continue  to  give  premiums  for  a  longer  period  for  the  same  purpose 
than  what  is  quite  sufiicient  to  introduce  it ;  when  once  it  is  intro- 
duced they  suspend  the  premium,  because  they  consider  that  if  it 
cannnt  maintain  itself  after  that,  it  is  not  worth  encouraging. 
Formerly  there  were  a  gieat  many  premiums  given  for  the  purpose 
of  the  linen  manufacture ;  these  have  now  been  suspended.  There 
are  many  premiums  given  for  the  woollen  manufacture  ;  for  all  the 
branches  of  that  manufacture.  Within  these  two  or  three  years  the 
Board  have  particularly  turned  their  attention  to  matters  connected 
with  woollen  manufactures,  to  the  branch  of  carpet  manufacture; 
and  they  have  been  the  means  of  very  much  extending  that  branch 
in  Scotland  by  the  introduction  of  three  or  four  new  descriptions  in 
the  branches  of  manufacture  which  never  were  known  in  the  coun- 
try before,  never  practised  in  Scotland  at  least,  and  which  have  been 
most  successfully  introduced,  and  are  now  rising  into  great  reputa- 
tion. They  have  also  turned  their  attention  particularly  to  the  sub- 
ject of  the  shawl  manufacture  ;  a  number  of  their  premiums  were 
dedicated  to  the  shawl  manufacturers,  and  amongst  others,  being 
aware  of  the  disadvantage  which  the  shawl  manufacturers  were  ex- 
posed to  from  drawing  the  )'arn  used  in  that  manufacture  from 
France,  and  from  France  alone,  because  it  was  only  there  where  it 
could  be  spun,  the  Board  of  Trustees  offered  a  high  premium  for  the 
introduction  of  the  art,  and  have  succeeded  in  introducing  it ;  and 
it  is  now  established  in  Glasgow  and  Leeds  to  an  extent  which  I 
believe  supplies  the  market  as  quickly  as  the  French  agents  did, 
W'ho  do  not  come  now  to  this  country  for  that  purpose.  The  amount 
of  the  premium  was  300^.;  it  was  the  largest  premium  which  the 
Board  ever  oflered  for  an)^  subject,  and  they  consider  they  have  done  a 
very  great  benefit  to  the  country  in  having  succeeded  in  that  scheme. 
They  have  introduced  the  system  of  making  carpets  in  imitation 
of  Turkey  carpets,  because  they  are  made  of  coarse  wool,  which  is 
more  suitable.  Their  view  was  the  consumption  of  Scotch  wool, 
which  is  coarse  wool  compared  with  the  wool  of  England,  Saxony, 
and  other  countries  ;  the  view  of  the  Board  was  to  extend  the  market 
for  the  Scotch  wool,  and  therefore  they  introduced  the  manufacture 
of  Turkey  carpets,  which  has  been  exceedingly  successful,  and  has 
very  much  increased  the  consumption  of  that  staple  of  Scotland. 


FIGURED   WEAVING. 


505 


They  then  extended  it  to  the  Persian  carpet^  which  is  a  different 
fabric  also,  and  that  has  also  been  successful;  there  are  a  great 
many  looms  now  employed  solely  upon  these  branches.     I  cannot 
altogether  say,  but  I  believe  the  carpet  manufacture  has  very  much 
increased  in  consequence  of  the  introduction  of  all  those  different 
branches.     They  introduced  also  the  tapestrij  mode  of  making 
carpets  in  imitation  of  French  carpets  ;  they  also  introduced  the 
making  of  carpets  from  cow-hair,  which  is  an  article  that  formerly 
was  not  used  in  any  shape  but  in  that  of  mixing  lime ;  in  fact,  it 
was  of  no  use  ;  the  premium  was  offered  about  three  years  ago ;  the 
yarn  was  spun  generally  in  the  gaols  and  correction-houses,  and 
those  sort  of  places,  by  the  people  who  were  there  ;  and  carpets  have 
been  produced  of  exceedingly  good  uorkmanship,  and  very  useful 
for  many  purposes,  particularly  for  shops  and  for  lobbies,  and  pur- 
poses of  that  kind.     It  is  a  coarse  manufacture,  but  a  very  useful 
one;  it  is  altogether  peculiar  to  Scotland;  the  idea,  in  fact,  oc- 
curred to  myself;  1  had  seen  the  use  of  cow-hair  in  making  rugs 
and  things  of  that  kind  in  Flanders  ;  and  I  suggested  that  improve- 
ment, and  it  has  been  adopted.     This  improvement  applies  to  the 
texture;    the  design  is  that  of  the  Turkey  and  Persian  carpets, 
but  that  has  improved   the  art  of  design  a  great  deal,   because 
being  a  new  subject,  the  artist  has  bestowed  a  good  deal  of  attention 
on  the  subject.     The  French  design  is  what  is  called  "tapestry 
carpets,"  which    has   also   been    introduced    into   Scotland.     The 
Scotch  have  now  imitated  that  French  pattern,  I  think  with  very 
considerable  success.     Those  require  botanical  accuracy  above  all 
things,  because  they  generally  are  groups  of  flowers  thrown  on  a 
dark  ground;  and  there  is  a  much  greater  variety  of  shades  of  col- 
ours.    Formerly  in  the  Scotch  manufacture,  and  I  believe  in  the 
English  also,  they  could  not  introduce  above  four  colours,  except 
by  mixing  the  threads ;  except  by  mixing  a  thread  of  iv-o  differ- 
ent colours.     I  know  that  from  a  circumstance  that  was  mentioned 
to  me  by  a  colour  manufacturer  in  Scotland  ;  he  had  arrived  to  the 
extent  of  introducing /oMr^ee?i  colours,  or  tints,  which  was  conceived 
to  be  impossible  ;  however,  he  is  a  very  ingenious  man ;  his  name  is 
Whytock,*  and  he  set  himself  to  work,  and  he  has  very  much  aug- 
mented the  number  of  colours  now  introduced  into  patterns.     In  that 
respect,  and  in  the  circumstance  of  design  and  the  beauty  of  execu- 

*  A  description  of  Mr.  Whytock's  inventions  in  this  manufacture  is  given 
at  pages  215  to  239  ;  which  see.  Samples  of  this  gentleman's  beautiful  car- 
peting may  be  seen  in  New  York,  on  apphcation  to  George  D.  Baldwin,  35 
Spruce-st.,  or  at  the  carpet  warehouse  of  Mr.  William  Sloane,  245  Broadway. 

64 


506  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

tion,  I  think  he  stands  pre-eminent.  He  has  obtained  a  patent  for 
the  velvet  carpet.  The  Royal  Institution  is  now  connected  with  the 
Board  of  Trustees,  in  consequence  of  an  arrangement  which  took 
place  about  four  years  ago.  Tlierefore  the  Board  of  Trustees  have 
obtained  access  for  their  pupils  to  the  library  containing  works  on 
the  fine  arts,  and  every  thing  connected  with  that  subject ;  they 
also  have  the  privilege,  for  the  pupils  of  the  academy,  of  attending 
their  gallery  of  pictures,  and  copying  pictures  there  and  studying  as 
they  choose.  The  institution  have  no  casts;  it  is  merely  confined 
to  pictures  ;  it  is  a  private  institution  supported  by  private  subscrip- 
tion, and  they  have  expended  the  whole  of  their  funds  in  the  pur- 
cliase  of  the  pictures  of  the  old  masters,  of  a  collection,  net  a  very 
large  one,  but  an  exceedingly  good  one,  of  paintings,  which  is  now 
open  to  the  pupils  of  the  academy  of  the  Board  of  Trustees.  The 
gallery  of  casts  consists  of  about  one  hundred  excellent  casts  of  the 
finest  works  of  antiquity ;  they  have  also  the  Elgin  Marbles,  and 
have  received  a  number  of  presents  and  legacies  of  different  works 
of  the  same  character.  They  obtained  the  originals  from  Lord  El- 
gin ;  a  great  many  ot  the  casts  which  he  had  taken  at  Greece  of 
dififerent  buildings,  which  are  now  in  the  collection  of  the  Board  of 
Trustees,  are  open  to  the  public ;  to  the  artists  always ;  to  the  pub- 
lic on  certain  days,  but  always  to  the  artists,  and  always  to  the 
pupils  of  the  Academy  at  all  times.  Exhibitions  of  works  of  art, 
such  as  ingenious  patterns  and  manufactures,  or  ingenious  speci- 
mens of  weaving,  were,  at  one  time,  contemplated,  but  never  put  in 
practice.  I  understand  that  there  exists  an  indisposition  on  the 
part  of  persons  who  have  made  inventions  or  improvements  to  ex- 
hibit them,  from  the  circumstance  that  they  are  aware  that  they 
have  no  protection  ;  that  their  invention  and  the  property  of  their 
improvement  is  not  i^rotected.  The  Trustees  for  the  encourage- 
ment of  the  manufactures  of  Scotland,  offer  annually  a  series  of 
premiums  for  improvements  in  difl^erent  manufactures,  also  for  inven- 
tions, should  any  take  place.  Those  are  annually  exhibited  to  the 
public,  and  judges  are  appointed  from  among  the  manufacturers, 
who  examine  the  goods  and  award  the  premiums.  The  circum- 
stance that  induces  the  manufacturers  to  attend  very  much  to  that 
is,  that  by  obtaining  the  premium  for  their  manufacture,  they  may 
obtain  the  means  of  publishing,  very  much  to  their  own  advantage, 
the  species  of  trade  that  they  carry  on  ;  otherwise  the  premium  is  a 
very  small  one,  and  scarcely  worth  the  while  of  manufacturers  to 
work  for  it.  The  French  Exposition  is  highly  advantageous. 
Where  it  enjoys  a  very  great  advantage  over  any  attempt  in  this 


FIGURED    WEAVING.  507 

country,  is,  that  the  improvements  of  the  year,  and  the  inventions 
of  the  year,  are  by  the  French  manufacturers  expressly  reserved  for 
that  exhibition,  because  they  know  that  they  are  safe  in  producing 
their  new  design,  whatever  it  may  be. 


Although  the  evidence  above  quoted  was  given  before  the  House 
of  Commons  about  nine  years  ago,  we  do  not  think  it  has  lost  much 
of  its  value.  We  are  not  aware  that  any  considerable  change  has 
taken  place  since  then  on  the  subject  of  v;hich  it  treats.  It  furnishes 
a  clear  exposition  of  the  state  of  European  manufactures ;  which 
could  not  be  done  by  any  but  men  of  liberal  and  enlightened  views. 
There  is  no  narrow-minded  boasting  about  native  talent ;  no  depre- 
ciation of /orei"*/?  ingenuity.  Facts  are  truly  stated ;  and  honour 
is  justly  awarded  where  honour  is  deserved.  We  admire  such  sen- 
timents, and  wish  that  all  could  admire  them  :  but  we  regret  that 
national  prejudices  and  national  animosities  have  taken  such  a  deep 
root  in  the  public  mind,  that  probably  ages  will  elapse  before  they 
can  be  thoroughly  eradicated. 


DESIGN    PAPER. 


It  is  our  object  here  to  afford  the  manufacturer  and  pattern-drawer 
di  guide  in  the  selection  of  proper  paper  for  his  designs,  as  much  de- 
pends upon  the  paper  used,  the  due  proportioning  of  the  pattern,  the 
nature  of  the  fabric,  the  arrangement  of  the  harness,  <fcc. 

The  first  thing  to  be  considered  is  the  fineness  of  the  reed  and  the 
description  of  harness  to  be  used,  whether  a  full  or  one-thread  har- 
ness, a  split  or  two-thread,  or  a  four-thread,  or  any  coarse  descrip- 
tion of  harness,  such  as  damask,  &.c. 

The  second  thing  to  be  considered  is,  the  thickness  of  the  cloth  or 
number  of  picks  or  weft  threads  per  inch,  and  what  proportion  that 
bears  to  the  number  of  harness-twines  or  mails  per  inch  ;  and  the 
paper  must  be  selected  according  to  that  proportion,  always  bearing 
in  mind  whether  the  work  be  once,  twice,  or  oftener  drawn — that 
is  one,  two,  or  more  picks  or  weft  threads  given  to  the  same  card 
or  lash. 


50S  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

la  damask  work  where  only  one  colour  of  weft  is  used,  the 
harness  is  of  course  drawn  and  retained  in  its  lifted  position  until 
the  required  number  of  picks  (from  4  to  12)  are  given  ;  the  cloth 
being  formed  by  presser  leaves,  acting  upwards  on  the  undrawn 
warp  and  downwards  (see  Fig.  65)  on  the  raised  warp,  at  each 
pick,  till  the  proper  number  of  picks  are  thrown  in,  when  the 
card  or  lash  is  changed  for  another  card  or  lash,  and  the  operation 
of  the  headles  is  again  repeated  (see  also  damask  weaving,  page 
46S). 

In  the  more  elaborate  patterns  of  shawls,  vestings  and  similar 
goods,  wliere  more  than  one  colour  of  weft  is  used,  it  is  called 
'•'  covered  uork.p  each  colour  constituting  a  cover,  if  used  in  the 
sa?ne  line,  and  all  the  colours  in  one  line  forming  only  one  pick  of 
actual  cloth.  This  description  of  goods  is  often  twice  or  thrice 
drawn  ;  but  not  like  the  damask ;  for  the  colours  must  be  repeated 
individually,  the  headle  shed  being  changed  07ili/  at  a  neic  repeti- 
tion of  the  colours.  For  once-drawn  patterns  in  full  harnesses, 
where  any  variety  of  work  may  be  introduced  into  the  design,  such 
as  various  kinds  of  tweeling,  flushing,  satin,  plain,  or  taffeta,  &c.,* 
but  little  depends  upon  the  selection  of  design  paper  farther  than  the 
proportioning  of  tlie  thicknesses  of  tlie  warp  and  weft,  which  is  an 
easy  matter  when  due  attention  is  paid  to  the  reed-scale  :  and  the 
number  of  picks  per  inch  is  known,  as,  for  example,  an  1,800  har- 
ness stands  97  threads  per  inch  : — 

8  by    S  paper  gives    97  picks  per  inch 

8  by    9      "        "     109     "       "      " 

8  by  10  "  "  121  "  "  " 
For  split  or  two-thread  harnesses  the  best  description  of  paper  is 
the  French  tweeling  paper ;  this  paper  is  calculated  for  work  to  be 
twice  drawn,  and  worked  with  four  leaves  of  headles,  one  thread 
being  pressed  out  of  each  two  mails  lifted  when  the  weft  pick  is 
thrown,  forming,  without  anything  like  break  or  error  in  the  tweel 
hues,  a  beautiful  three-and-one  tweel  (see  Figs.  16  and  17.  Section 
First). 

This  kind  of  harness,  unlike  damask,  forms  no  square  or  blunt 
points  in  the  figure,  as  will  be  seen  by  inspecting  one  of  the  better 
description  of  French  shawls  ;  the  theory  of  its  action  is  very  simple 
and  beautifully  correct. 

*  The  loom  represented  at  Figs.  218  to  229  is  of  this  description. 


SAMPLES    OF    DESIGX    PAPER 


fibjGNn 
11  de  sigTis  wide  11  <] 

et-v 

38 

wide 

10 

5( 

deep 

- 

- 

g 

29  wide 

23  deep 

= 

1 

1 

1 

= 

1 

^ 

= 
= 

= 

^ 

™ 

— 

~ 

i 

— 1— 

^ 

=r 

= 



= 

td 

t= 

bd 

Ld 

b^ 

t 

1= 

Lj 

8b78N?5. 
40  wide  49  deep 


8l>yyN"l. 
38  wide  30  deep 


8by9A'VL'. 
40  wide  49detp 

8bvliy?l. 

U- 

"^     ^       T 

1  N  il  III  II 1 II II 1 1 

81>yllN92. 

4<J             ,')0 

-      -_    -    _      _    -    .      _. 

:iii!i:-|-|----=F-J. 

8bYl2N?l. 
J8    "^     30 


^  by 

20^ 

20 
14 

XO] 

. 

3 

= 

1 

^ 

= 

E 

= 

1 

= 

= 

E 

i 

1 

- 

1 

1 

= 

= 

= 

E 

— 

= 

^ 

= 

r: 

= 

= 

Rbv2(>N"2. 
:'8     '       iS 


ClieTiUle  .V?  1 . 

7""T 

8  by5  N?] . 
49  40 


7-----T--"7Tr----7 

/;      ,          ■,•■   !     '         '} 

J 'L^-U^-.X],-~- ---'-- 

7/„_z/„__i3:tT__ 

-JlX''-^'-TI--X- 

-Z/_4t__L__±_T:_ 

//  .  ^/             Z/      '  . 

/__//  _/''  _/•'_  1^  _/ 

i^^         .'             l/                        1. 

"77""7"     77""7""""' 

zz::ze::zz::z2::77:: 

8bvlO¥?7. 
38           30 

Chenille  N?3  . 

8bv8N?6. 

34     ^     2G 

2 

8by8]!f?7. 
5     ■      21 

''iiMsIied  in  sfuets  Scfor  sale  by    GeoDHaldmn  MuTcrlc. 


SAiiPLEs  or  desi(;k  i'.\i'kh 


8ty6N91 
50  wide  40  dt;<'p 


38  wide  3  O  deep 

vi8  wide  Sudeep 

;       "^ 

■" 

X 

8  V10N"1. 
38  wide  30df*'p 

8by8N?lO. 

4<)widf   .so  deep 


8  by  10  ¥93. 

r>.;\n6c  M  deep 


8bvl21\'"2. 

"   ---";:  =  =  =  =  -=-:^: 

8bjl3. 
30            38 

EEEEEEIEEEEE:  EE 

8byl4N91. 

.?5             27 

=  -  =  =  r=  =  --   -T .:     -:=  = 

=:=;;==E===;:=^E 

9b^8. 
141,         30 

X 

X 

lObvlON'.'l 
16       '  36 


:::::::::":""--:-- 


10bvl()IVV2. 
20        ■    l.-i 

-    -    -      --      ----- 

_    

10  by  8. 
4<)  M 


••■'leets  &.for  sale  bv  Geo.D.Balduin  TevTork 


INSERT  FOLDOUT  HERE 


FIGURED    WEAVING. 


609 


PRINCIPLE   OF   THE   "TWO   THREAD"   OR   "SPLIT 
HARNESS." 

Harness  or  mails. 


,, ,1 ± 

,t ,t g— 

n i, 3 

,: : i 


Headles 

or 

picks. 


Warp  threads. 

It  will  be  observed  that  this  harness,  though  a  tvjo-thread,  and 
though  the  same  card  be  twice  drawn,  yet  each  pick  of  weft  pro- 
duces a  differe7it  effect^  and  the  correct  action  of  the  harness  is  se- 
cured by  the  use  of  the  tweehng  paper ;  besides  which,  this  paper 
wonderfully  assists  the  pattern-drawer  in  accomplishing  his  work, 
both  in  speed  of  execution  and  graceful  freedom  of  design  ;  objects 
which  could  not  be  obtained  by  any  other  means. 

For  four-thread  and  damask  harnesses  the  design  paper  should 
be  chosen  of  a  large  scale,  as  near  as  possible  to  the  size  of  the  cloth 
to  he  jJroduced,  and  the  designer  should  be  more  guarded  in  this 
than  any  other  work  against  errors,  as  each  will  be  magnified  upon 
the  cloth,  whereas  in  fine  fabrics  they  are  diminished. 

For  coloured  patterns,  a  rough  sketch  is  commonly  drawn  out  on 
coarse  paper,  which,  after  all  the  necessary  corrections  are  made,  is 
traced  on  clean  drawing  paper,  when  it  is  ready  for  colouring.  The 
method  of  tracing  these  sketches  is  as  follows  :  prepare  a  sheet  of 
wove  writing  paper  by  rubbing  it  over  on  one  side,  first  with  sweet 
oil,  and  afterwards  with  ground  verditure  ;  when  it  is  dry,  lay  it  on 
the  clean  drawing  paper,  and  over  it  the  rough  sketch.  Then  with 
a  blunted  steel  point  trace  over  all  the  outlines,  and  a  very  fine  de- 
lineation of  the  pattern  will  be  produced.  This  done,  the  different 
colours  are  laid  on  with  camel's  hair  pencils,  agreeably  to  the  taste 
of  the  manufacturer,  or  to  the  style  of  work  to  which  the  patterns 
are  to  be  applied.  It  is  necessary  to  observe,  however  that,  as  in 
many  kinds  of  patterns,  particularly  those  intended  for  low  priced 
goods,  the  greatest  economy  is  frequently  necessary  in  introducing 


510 


THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 


the  colours,  the  pattern-drawer's  chief  study  should  be  to  produce  as 
much  effect  as  possible  with  few  colours. 

The  pigments  used  by  pattern-drawers  and  designers,  are,  in 
general,  the  same  as  those  which  are  made  up  into  cakes,  and  sold 
in  the  shops  under  the  name  of  water  colours 

A  table  showing  the  various  purposes  to  which  the  accompanying 
samples  of  design-paper  may  be  applied  ;  or  otherwise,  the  various 
qualities  of  goods  which  require  these  papers,  is  a  thing  much  needed 
by  many  of  our  manufacturing  friends  at  the  present  time,  and  we 
accordingly  submit  the  following. 


Number  of  picks  per  inch 

DESCRIP- 

once drawn,  full  or  one 

Number  of  picks  per  inch 

TION  OP 

thread,  and  on  twice 

on  twice  drawn  four 

PAPER. 

drawn,  split  or  two 

thread  harnesses. 

thread  harnesses. 

1400 

1600 

1800 

2000 

TSiiT 

1600 

1800 

2000 

Reed 

Reed 
32i 

Reed 
36 

Reed 
404 

Reed 
14i 

Reed 
16 

Reed 

18 

Reed 
204 

8  by  3 

28i 

8  "     3i 

33i 

37i 

42i 

47i 

164 

181 

214 

234 

8  "     4 

38 

43 

484 

54 

19 

214 

24i 

27 

8  "     5 

47i 

53 1 

60i 

674 

24 

27 

304 

33J 

8  "     6 

57 

64^ 

72| 

81 

284 

32i 

36 

404 

8  "     7 

66i 

75i 

84| 

944 

33i 

374 

424 

474 

8  "     8 

76 

86 

97 

108 

38 

43 

484 

54 

8  "     9 

85i 

97 

109 

1214 

43 

484 

544 

60| 

8  "  10 

95 

108 

121 

135 

474 

54 

6O4 

674 

8  "..  11 

104i 

\\%\ 

133 

1484 

524 

59 

664 

744 

8  ,    12 

114 

129i 

145 

162 

57 

65 

724 

81 

8   '  13 

123i 

140 

157i 

1754 

62 

70 

78| 

87| 

8  "  14 

133i 

151 

1694 

189 

67i 

754 

844 

944 

8  "  16 

154 

172i 

194 

216 

76 

86 

97 

108 

8  "  18 

171 

194 

218 

243 

854 

97 

109 

1214 

8  "  20 

190 

2l5i 

242 

270 

95 

107i 

121 

135 

6  "     6 

76 

86 

97 

108 

38 

43 

484 

54 

6  ''  10 

126i 

143 

1614 

180 

634 

7U 

81 

90 

6  "  20 

253 

286 

323 

360 

1264 

143 

I6I4 

180 

16  "     9 

42i 

48 

54 

60| 

214 

24 

27 

304 

12  "     8 

50i 

57 

64 

72 

25i 

284 

32 

36 

10  "  10 

76 

86 

97 

108 

38 

43 

484 

54 

10  "  12 

91 

103 

116 

130 

454 

524 

58 

65 

The  sample  of  paper  marked  A,  shows  the  method  of  using 
the  tweeling  paper.  An  upright  hne  or  warp  cord  runs  zig-zag, 
embracing  two  tvveel  hnes  ;  a  cross  line  or  weft  thread  runs  straight, 
and  a  diagonal  line  follows  the  tweel  so  far  as  the  nature  of 
the  figure  requires  in  that  direction,  and  then  returns  to  another 
tweeUng  hne ;  the  arrangement  of  the  cords  is  shown  in  the  two 
squares  to  the  left  hand,  each  diamond  shape  having  two  cords  laid 
on  it ;  that  is,  the  card-cutter  never  cuts  less  than  two  holes  for  each 
dot  in  the  design  paper  painted,  and  one  of  these  is  always  repeated 
in  the  next  card  or  lash,  two  lines  across  twice  drawn  forming  once 
over  the  tweel. 


INSERT  FOLDOUT  HERE 


FIGURED   WEAVING.  511 

The  principle  of  chenille  paper  is,  to  give  the  required  number  of 
picks  or  threads  of  weft  to  the  pattern  by  measurement,  the  paper 
being  cut  into  slips,  each  representing  a  stripe  of  the  pattern,  ma- 
king allowance  for  the  amount  of  twist  to  be  given  to  the  weft  after 
being  cut  out  of  the  loom  and  previous  to  its  being  re-woven  or  set, 
as  it  is  called.  See  chenille,  page  259  ;  and  see  also  description  of 
Whytock's  carpet,  page  232. 

Paper  for  hearth-rugs  and  oil-cloth  should  be  as  large  as  the  pat- 
tern is  intended  to  be  on  the  goods  when  finished. 

In  making  the  foregoing  table  we  have  been  as  concise  as  possi- 
ble, bearing  in  mind  that  a  work  of  this  description  is  neither  fitted 
for  amusement,  nor  intended  to  beguile  the  ennui  of  a.  tedious  hour, 
but  solely  for  facilitating  the  operations  of  the  manufacturer  and  for 
the  dispatch  of  business. 


FRENCH   CARD-CUTTING   MACHINE. 


In  order  to  lay  before  our  readers  the  most  perfect  method  of 
cutting  cards  hitherto  discovered,  we  made  drawings  while  in  France, 
of  this  splendid  card-cutting  machine  (to  which  we  alluded  at  page 
209) ;  and  we  trust  that  from  the  following  description  and  the  ac- 
companying plates,  which  have  all  been  very  carefully  executed,  the 
whole  will  be  clearly  understood. 

The  card-cutting  machine,  with  Jacquard  attached,  is  shown  in 
Figs.  241,  242  and  243. 

Fig.  241,  represents  a  side  elevation  of  the  machine,  and  front  of 
the  Jacquard. 

Fig.  242,  a  front  elevation  of  the  machine  (on  an  enlarged  scale) 
showing  a  full  view  of  the  pulley-box,  through  the  Jacquard. 

Fig.  243,  sections  of  the  machine  and  Jacquard,  with  pulle5'-box, 
needles,  springs,  punches,  weights,  &c.,  one  side  of  the  framing  be- 
ing removed,  to  show  the  whole  arrangement. 

Fig.  244,  back  upright  section,  showing  the  simple  or  reading-on 
cords. 

Fig.  245,  side  view,  in  section  of  the  same.  This  may  be  either 
a  separate  frame,  called  the  "  lashing  frame."  or  the  lashing  may  be 
done  on  the  simple  attached  to  the  cutting  machine,  without  remov- 
ing the  simple. 

Figs.  246  and  247,  front  and  side  elevations  of  an  ordinary  fly- 
press,  wnth  a  three-thread  screw,  and  a  lead  follower  or  platen,  ex- 
tending the  full  length  of  the  card  to  be  cut. 

The  same  letters  refer  to  similar  parts  in  all  the  Figs. 

It  will  not  be  necessary  to  explain  the  arrangement  and  operation 
of  the  Jacquard,  as  that  has  been  done  elsewhere  (see  page  192) ; 
besides,  it  is  only  an  auxihary  to  the  machine  under  consideration. 

A,  is  a  case  or  frame  containing  a  series  of  needles,  similar  to 
those  used  in  the  Jacquard  machine ;  B,  C,  D,  (Fig.  243)  three  thin 
brass  perforated  plates,  corresponding  to  the  front  needle-board  and 


Tig.  242. 


Fig:  J42. 


1      ' 

■I 

IBSf 

■^?  '!' 

illlil  I   «          1  ILL     1 

4ff1*       14        ]l 

'  'IujL'  "'  '' 

R      M 

■  1 

i: 

R 

'        ■      ^111 

p 

L^iii'     'I 

■nil 

1,1  i           :|| 1      . 

ill 

-._-...  i^^jj^jji^lC-                                     .,^ 

0 


Kg:244. 


iilii;i?i>.:i'i, 


M 


FIGURED   WEAVING.  513 

cylinder  of  the  Jacquaid ;  E,  (Figs.  241  and  243)  a  thick  brass  or 
cast-iron  plate,  full  the  thickness  of  the  length  of  the  punches,  fixed 
close  to  the  cutting  plate  G,  the  cutting  plate  in  its  position,  with 
the  form  or  stud  plate  H,  closed  down  and  the  punches  forced  into 
the  brass  plate  E  ;  H,  the  stud  plate  (made  generally  of  wood),  with 
small  wire  studs  driven  or  screwed  into  it,  and  corresponding  to  the 
scale  of  the  needle  board ;  this  stud  plate  has  a  board  F,  screwed  to 
it,  to  prevent  the  studs  or  pins,  which  drive  home  the  punches,  be- 
ing forced  back ;  I,  the  folding  joint  to  which  the  stud  plate  H,  is 
attached,  for  the  purpose  of  being  easily  thrown  up  when  the  opera- 
tive is  about  to  remove  the  cutting  plate  G ;   J,  (Fig.  243)  brass 
spiral  springs,  operating  between  the  centre  plate  C,  and  a  barb 
upon  the  needles,  round  which  they  are  coiled,  and  forcing  the 
needles  toward  the  front;  K,  balance  weights,  rather  more  than 
sufficient  to  keep  the  springs  J,  (Fig.  243)  from  acting  on  the  needles, 
to  which  the  weights  are  attached  by  cords ;  L,  and  M,  guide  or 
hole  boards,  through  which  the  cords  pass,  dividing  at  M,  into  two, 
for  the  purpose  of  keeping  the  leads  clear  and  from  twisting  or 
entanghng  one  another;  N,  (Fig.  243)  twelve  smooth  glass  rods  or 
rollers,  corresponding  to  each  row  or  line  of  holes  to  be  punched ; 
O,  (Figs.  241  and  243)  cords  connecting  the  punch  needles  with  the 
reading-on  simple  ;  P,  cords  connecting  the  Jacquard  with  the  punch 
needles;  Q-,  a  continuation  of  the  cords  O,  and  P,  both  being  at- 
tached above  the  hole  board  M,  and  either  acting  as  it  may  be 
required  upon  the  weights  K,  thereby  allowing  the  springs  J,  to  force 
the  needles  outward,  and,  consequently,  the  loose  punches  that  may 
be  necessary  for  the  particular  card  from  the  plate  E,  into  the  cut- 
ting plate  G ;  when  this  is  done,  the  stud  plate  H,  is  thrown  up  on 
its  joint,  thereby  allowing  the  pimches  free  access  into  the  plate  G  ; 
R,  the  reading-on  cords  or  simple,  on  which  the  pattern  is  lashed  or 
read  ;  it  is  attached  to  a  roller  S,  at  the  bottom  of  the  machine ; 
this  roller  works  in  two  brackets,  and  has  a  ratchet  T,  and  click  U, 
whereby  the  simple  can  be  tightened  as  the  pattern  comes  to  an  end, 
the  removing  of  the  lashing  or  reading  threads  slackening  tlie  sim- 
ple gradually  as  they  are  taken  olF.     Tiie  attachment  of  the  simple 
to  double  cords  at  tlie  harness  board  V,  is  to  prevent  the  cords  losing 
any  of  their  twist  and  thereby  becoming  unequal  in  length  in  the 
course  of  the  working ;  W,  a  series  of  wire  hooks  for  conveniently 
attaching  the  simple  after  coming  from  the  reading  frame — a  num- 
ber of  readers  or  lashers  being  employed  for  one  machine,  each  hav- 
ing a  simple  made  to  suit  and  ready  to  be  attached  as  soon  as  the 
lashing  upon  the  simple  in  operation  is  exhausted  ;  X,  double  cords 

65 


514  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING, 

attached  to  the  upper  part  of  the  hooks  W,  to  prevent  the  hooks 
turning  round,  and  connected  over  the  pulley-box  Y,  to  counter- 
poise weights  F' ;  Y,  the  ordinary  draw-loom  pulley-box,  containing 
624  small  pulleys,  or  any  number,  of  course,  according  to  the  size  of 
the  Jacquard. 

After  removing  the  simple  from  the  lashing  frame  (Figs.  244  and 
245)  and  attaching  it  to  the  hooks  W,  the  train  of  operations  is  as 
follows : — The  draw-boy  seizes  the  lash  Z,  (Fig.  244)  which  separ- 
ates the  required  quantity  of  cords  from  the  others,  and  he  either 
pulls  those  with  his  hand  or  a  rod  for  the  purpose,  thrusting  it  into 
the  shed  made  by  the  lash  Z,  and  pulUng  it  forward;  the  cords 
pulled  glide  over  the  pulleys  of  the  box  Y,  the  glass  rods  A',  and  N, 
(Fig.  243)  raise  the  weights  K,  in  the  direction  of  the  arrows, 
thereby  relieving  the  springs  J,  which  force  the  punches  forward 
into  the  cutting  plate  G.  The  operative  now  seizes  the  plate  by  the 
handles  in  front,  dexterously  turns  it  on  its  flat,  and  carries  it  with 
its  necessary  number  of  punches  to  the  fly-press  (Fig.  246.) 

The  press-boy  has  a  blank  card  ready  placed  upon  a  sole  plate, 
with  the  usual  steady  pins  or  guides  fitting  exactly  to  slots  or  holes 
in  the  plate  G,  which  with  the  punches  the  workman  places  above 
the  sole  plate,  shoves  both  under  the  press  platen  or  lead  follower, 
the  boy  gives  a  half  turn  of  the  press-arms  above,  and  the  card  is 
perforated.  Should  more  than  one  set  of  cards  of  the  same  pattern 
be  wanted,  the  press  operation  is  repeated  according  to  the  required 
number  :  or,  when  the  paper  is  light,  two  cards  may  be  cut  together. 
The  workman  now  seizes  his  plate,  thrusts  it  into  its  place  in  front 
of  the  plate  E,  closes  down  the  stud  plate  H,  which  he  raises,  while 
the  draw-boy  pulls  the  simple  so  as  again  to  force  out  the  required 
number  of  punches,  and  so  on  till  the  pattern  is  completed. 

The  punches  are  prevented  from  falling  through  the  plate  G,  by 
a  small  ruff  or  collar,  turned  upon  the  inner  end  of  them. 

The  Jacquard  operates  similarly  to  the  simple,  being  also  attached 
to  the  weights  K,  the  springs  J,  and  cords  P  ;  the  draw-boy  working 
the  Jacquard  instead  of  the  lashes  ;  it  is  used  to  advantage  in  re- 
newing a  pattern,  or  in  making  duplicates  after  testing  the  merits 
of  a  design  upon  cloth. 

Fig.  244,  represents  the  lashing-frame  ;  V,  the  hole-board  (same 
as  in  Figs.  241  and  243),  which  is  removed  along  with  the  simple 
into  the  machine  and  secured  by  bolts,  seen  in  Fig.  241 ;  B', 
springs  for  giving  elasticity  to  the  simple-cords  in  the  operation  of 
lashing. 

T'he  lasher  reads  over  the  design  C',  (missing  those  cords  not  re- 


FIGURED    WEAVING.  515 

quired,)  between  the  round  rods  D',  and  E',*  and  if  there  be  more 
colours  than  one,  as  in  covered-work,  such  as  shawls,  he  reads  on 
a  separate  lash  for  each  colour,  which  lashes  are  generally  all  at- 
tached to  what  is  called  a  bridle,  (see  lashing  for  draw-loom,  page 
157)  forming  one  line  across  the  design  or  pattern ;  such  as  red, 
blue,  green,  yellow,  white  and  black,  which  would  constitute  work 
of  six  covers,  unless  the  ground  (say  black)  was  repeated  twice, 
when  it  would  be  seven  covers ;  and  seven  lashes  would  be  neces- 
sary to  complete  one  pick  or  shot  of  cloth. 

The  lasher  after  completing  one  line  (if  for  damask,  only  one  lash 
is  required)  proceeds  with  the  next,  until  he  has  the  whole  pattern 
read  or  registered  on  the  simple,  when  it  is  ready  to  be  removed  to 
the  cutting  machine. 

*  It  is  cusiomary  in  England  and  Scotland  for  lashers  to  use  a  reed,  cor- 
responding in  fineness  to  the  design  paper,  and  into  this  reed  they  pass  all 
the  simple  cords.  (See  reading  or  lashing,  page  157,  and  Fig.  70.)  In 
France,  however,  the  reed  is  not  used,  rods  like  those  represented  at  D',  and 
E',  (Figs.  244  and  245)  being  preferred,  and  the  simple  cords  are  passed  un- 
der and  over  each  of  them  alternately,  forming  a  lease.  The  operator  works 
over  the  cords  between  the  rods  with  her  right  hand,  commencing  at  the  left 
eide  (females  only  are  employed  in  this  operation  in  France),  and  taking 
those  cords  which  are  indicated  by  the  design  placed  above.  As  soon  as  the 
line  of  pattern  has  been  gone  over,  she  draws  the  cords  thus  selected  towards 
her,  with  her  left  hand,  immediately  below  the  rod  E',  and  instantly  inserts 
the  lashing  twine,  and  so  on  for  each  successive  lash,  until  the  pattern  is  com- 
pleted. 


WEFT   CALCULATION   TABLE. 

The  following  tables  are  drawn  up  with  a  view  to  enable  the 
practical  manufacturer  to  ascertain  the  amount  of  material  required 
in  making  various  kinds  of  goods. 

There  is  no  mode  of  ascertaming  the  expense  of  the  manufacture 
of  a  shawl,  or  similar  stuff,  but  by  calculation  ;  the  clumsy  system 
of  weight  is  inadmissible,  for  the  most  heavy  part,  and  generally 
the  most  expensive,  is  always  shorn  off  previous  to  the  finishing  of 
the  fabric.  Thus,  if  the  goods  contain  eight  or  ten  regular  colours, 
they  will  not  weigh  when  finished  above  a  seventh  or  an  eighth 
of  their  original  weight. 

To  afford  the  manufacturer  an  exact  idea  of  the  quantity  of  ma- 
terial used,  is  our  present  motive :  but  that  he  may  not  go  blindly 
by  our  direction,  we  shall  place  the  rule  before  him,  and  he  may  if 
he  choose,  work  out  his  own  problems.  For  those,  however,  who 
are  not  expert  in  figures,  the  following  tables,  embracing  almost 
every  width  of  goods  and  quantity  of  picks,  will  hkely  be  of  so?7ie 
benefit. 

It  is  well  known  to  manufacturers  of  any  experience,  that  the 
standard  length  of  cotton  yarn  is  54  inches  once  round  the  reel,  SO 
threads  of  this  length  forming  a  skein,  and  7  skeins  a  number ;  so 
that  yarn  sold  as  No.  20s,  or  30s,  should  contain  20,  or  30,  of  these 
numbers  per  pound,  and  anything  short  of  this  is  an  infringement 
on  the  established  rules  of  trade,  affording  strong  evidence  that  the 
spinner  is  dishonest. 

54  inches,  length  of  reel. 
SO  threads  per  skein. 


4320  inches  in  each  skein. 

7  skeins  per  number  or  hank. 


36)30240  inches  in  each  number. 


840  yards  of  thread  per  number. 
If  a  different  material  than  cotton  is  used,  such  as  wool  or  silk, 
ascertain  the  length  in  inches  which  it  will  run  per  pound  and  apply 
the  same  rule  :  in  all  respectable  factories  this  can  be  known  exactly, 
as  spun  silk  is  put  up  the  same  as  cotton,  trame  silk  is  of  a  known 
length  and  sold  as  such,  and  wool  and  worsted  are  of  known  lengths 
also  ;  but  more  allowance  must  be  given  for  w^aste  in  using  the  last 
named  materials  than  the  former. 


FIGURED   WEAVING.  517 

To  ascertain  the  exact  amount  of  weft  contained  in  any  particular 
length  of  cloth,  multiply  the  number  of  inches  in  the  width  of  the 
cloth  by  the  number  of  picks  of  weft  and  divide  by  54  (the  number 
of  inclies  in  the  length  of  the  reel),  by  80  (the  number  of  threads 
per  skein),  and  by  7  (the  number  of  skeins  per  number) ;  the  quo- 
tient may  be  divided  by  18  (the  Nos.  per  spyndle),  or  by  the  Nos.  of 
yarn  per  pound,  and  this  will  show  the  exact  expense— as  for  ex- 
ample, 

45         inches,  width  of  cloth. 
6,000  number  of  picks. 

54)270,000 


80)5000 

7')62U 

'-'   7    8  0" 

Thus  we  have  8  Nos.  6^  skeins,  for  6,000  picks,  on  cloth  45 
inches  in  width  ;  but  S  or  10  per  cent  must  be  added  for  waste,  &c., 
and  with  8  per  cent  it  would  stand  thus  : 

45         inches 
6,000  picks 

50+80=4,000)270,000 


Qiao 

^780- 

We  next  take  cloth  57  inches  ^vide,  8  per  cent  added  for  waste, 
with  95,673  picks: 

95,673  picks. 
57  inches. 


669711 
478365 


50)5453361 

80)10906711 
7)1363l^ 
18)194  f 

10  4-4  i  S.1  ii 


518  THE    ART    OF    WEAVING. 

We  have  no  desire  to  use  algebra  in  this  matter,  or  it  would  be 
very  easy  to  render  the  above  a  httle  more  scientific  in  appearance ; 
but  we  know  the  above  mode  of  working  the  calculation  to  be  cor- 
rect, and  have  no  doubt  that  it  will  prove  more  satisfactory  to  the 
real  weaver  than  all  the  logarithms  and  algebra  in  the  world  ;  thus 
we  have  10  spyndles,  14  numbers,  5  skeins,  27  threads  and  11 
inches,  used  in  working  the  above  number  of  picks,  on  cloth  57 
inches  wide. 

The  following  tables,  running  from  42  to  72  inches  width  of 
cloth,  with  the  various  numbers  of  dents  contained  in  the  different 
widths,  and  fineness  of  reeds  running  from  1200  to  2000  per  37 
inches,  have  10  per  cent  deducted  as  allowance  for  waste.  Each 
page  is  headed  by  the  particular  breadth  of  cloth  and  the  different 
reeds,  with  the  number  of  dents  contained  in  that  particular  breadth, 
so  that  the  manufacturer  has  a  double  check,  the  amount  of  warp 
as  well  as  the  measurement,  indicating  tlie  width.  The  first  column 
to  the  left  contains  the  number  of  picks,  the  next  two,  the  quantity 
of  cloth  in  yards,  inches,  and  at  the  rates  of  100  and  120  picks  per 
inch,  and  the  fourth,  the  quantity  of  weft  required  in  spyndles,  hanks, 
skeins  and  threads. 

We  begin  as  low  as  50  }  icks  and  rise  to  one  million,  which  we 
think  sufl5ciently  various  foi  any  purpose  ;  and  the  tables  are  equally 
apphcable  to  plain  and  figured  goods.  For  plain  fabrics,  ascertain 
the  number  of  picks  per  inch  and  the  number  of  inches  in  the  width 
of  the  cloth ;  say  36  inches  wide  goods,  50  picks  per  inch  and  36 
inches  of  cloth  : 

36    inches. 
50  picks. 

1800 

36  inches. 


.10800 
!'>400 

50)64800 

80)1296 


7)16  if 

O  2    18 

'*  T  «  0* 

Here  we  have  1  yard  of  36  inch  cloth,  with  50  picks  per  inch, 
which  takes  2  numbers,  2  skeins  and  Yi- 


FIGURED    WEAVING.  519 

We  would  here  also  submit  a  short  rule  for  the  calculation  of 

warps,  which  may  be  useful,  as  it  comes  under  the  daily  practice  of 
every  manufacturer  : — Ascertain  the  nimiber  of  dents  and  length  of 
warp;  divide  the  dents  by  20  (the  beers);  multiply  by  ells,  (45 
inches,  or  one  and  a  quarter  yards) ;  divide  the  quotient  by  16  ;  and 
the  result  will  be  the  quantity  of  numbers  which  the  warp  requires. 

EXAMPLES. 

20)1270  warp  or  2540  threads. 


63^  beers. 
80  ells,  or  100  yards. 


16)5080 


317^  numbers  of  yarn  required. 

20)1760  warp. 

88    beers. 
100  ells,  or  125  yards. 


16)8800 


550  numbers  of  yarn  required. 

20)1130    warp. 

56^  beers. 
60  ells,  or  75  "ards 


16)3390 


211  If  numbers  of  yarn  required. 

The  above  rule  gives  an  allowance  of  5  per  cent  waste  in  winding 
and  warping 

For  the  sake  of  conciseness,  these  tables  advance  by  two  inches 
at  a  time  ;  but  for  the  purpose  of  rendering  them  applicable  to 
breadths  of  any  intermediate  inch,  a  table  of  one  inch  is  introduced 
in  page  551. 


520 


1200  Reed  1362  Dents. 
1300  1475  

1 

42  INCHES  WIDE. 

I 

1400  Ree 
1500  

115 

.  17 

90  Dents. 
05 

Picks 

aOANTITY  OP  CLOTH 

1 

Picks 

QUANTITY  OF  CLOTH 

or 

AT  THi 

KATES  OP 

WEFT 

or 

Shots 

of 

AT  THE  KATES  01 

■WEPT    1 

Shots 
of 

100  picks. 

120  pick 

s. 

REQ,  HIRED. 

100  picks. 

120  pick 

s. 

RBftUIRED. 

Weft. 

per  inch. 

per  inch 

. 

Weft. 

per  inch. 

per  incli 

. 

j 

Yds.  In. 

Yds.  In.  6ths. 

No. 

Sk.Thd. 

Yds 

In. 

Yds.  In.  6ths. 

Spy.  No 

Sk. 

50 

i 

2i 

0  43 

5000 

14 

1   5 

4 

7 

^ 

100 

1 

5 

1  6 

5100 

15 

1   6 

3 

7 

H 

200 

2 

1 

4 

2  11 

5200 

16 

1  7 

2 

7 

H 

300 

3 

0 

3 

3  17 

5300 

17 

1  8 

1 

8 

1 

400 

4 

3 

2 

4  22 

5400 

18 

1  9 

0 

8 

2 

500 

5 

4 

1 

5  28 

5500 

19 

1  9 

5 

8 

3 

600 

6 

5 

0 

6  33 

5600 

20 

1  10 

4 

8 

4 

700 

7 

5 

5 

0  39 

5700 

21 

1  11 

3 

8 

5 

800 

8 

6 

4 

1  44 

5800 

22 

1  12 

2 

8 

6 

900 

9 

7 

3 

2  50 

5900 

23 

1  13 

1 

9 

0 

1000 

10 

8 

2 

3  56 

6000 

24 

1  14 

0 

9 

1 

1100 

11 

9 

1 

4  61 

6100 

25 

1  14 

5 

9 

2i 

1200 

12 

10 

0 

5  67 

6200 

26 

1  15 

4 

9 

H 

1300 

13 

10 

5 

6  72 

6300 

27 

1  16 

3 

9 

4i 

1400 

14 

11 

4 

2 

0  78 

6400 

28 

1  17 

2 

9 

5i 

1500 

15 

12 

3 

2 

2  3 

6500 

29 

1  18 

1 

9 

H 

1600 

16 

13 

2 

2 

3  9 

6600 

30 

1  19 

0 

10 

1 

1700 

17 

14 

1 

2 

4  14 

6700 

31 

1  19 

5 

10 

1| 

1800 

18 

15 

0 

2 

5  20 

6800 

32 

1  20 

4 

10 

2| 

1900 

19 

15 

5 

2 

6  26 

6900 

33 

1  21 

3 

10 

H 

2000 

20 

16 

4 

3 

0  31 

7000 

34 

1  22 

2 

10 

4} 

2100 

21 

17 

3 

3 

1  37 

7100 

35 

1  23 

1 

10 

6 

2200 

22 

18 

2 

3 

2  42 

7200 

2 

0 

1  24 

0 

11 

0 

2300 

23 

19 

1 

3 

3  48 

7300 

2 

1 

1  24 

5 

11 

1 

2400 

24 

20 

0 

3 

4  53 

7400 

2 

2 

1  25 

4 

11 

2 

2500 

25 

20 

5 

3 

5  59 

7500 

2 

3 

1  26 

3 

11 

3i 

2600 

26 

21 

4 

3 

6  64 

7600 

2 

4 

1  27 

2 

11 

4i 

2700 

27 

22 

3 

4 

0  70 

7700 

2 

5 

1  28 

1 

11 

5i 

2800 

28 

23 

2 

4 

1  76 

7800 

2 

6 

1  29 

0 

11 

6i 

2900 

29 

24 

1 

4 

3  1 

7900 

2 

7 

1  29 

5 

12 

Oi 

3000 

30 

25 

0 

4 

4  7 

8000 

2 

8 

1  30 

4 

12 

H 

3100 

31 

25 

5 

4 

5  12 

8100 

2 

9 

1  31 

3 

12 

2i 

3200 

32 

26 

4 

4 

6  18 

8200 

2 

10 

1  32 

2 

12 

H 

3300 

33 

27 

3 

5 

0  23 

8300 

2 

11 

1  33 

1 

12 

4| 

3400 

34 

28 

2 

5 

1  29 

8400 

o 

12 

1  34 

0 

12 

5| 

3500 

35 

29 

1 

5 

2  34 

8500 

2 

13 

1  34 

5 

13 

0 

3600 

1   0 

30 

0 

5 

3  40 

8600 

2 

14 

1  35 

4 

13 

1 

3700 

1   1 

30 

5 

5 

4  46 

8700 

2 

15 

2  0 

3 

13 

2 

3800 

1   2 

31 

4 

5 

5  51 

8800 

2 

16 

2  1 

2 

13 

3 

3900 

1   3 

32 

3 

5 

6  57 

8900 

2 

17 

2  2 

1 

13 

44 

4000 

1   4 

33 

2 

6 

0  62 

9000 

2 

18 

2  3 

0 

13 

5i 

4100 

1   5 

34 

1 

6 

1  68 

9100 

2 

19 

2  3 

5 

13 

Gi 

4200 

1   6 

35 

0 

6 

2  75 

9200 

2 

20 

2  4 

4 

14 

Oi 

4300 

1   7 

35 

5 

6 

3  79 

9300 

2 

21 

2  5 

3 

14 

H 

4400 

1   8 

1  0 

4 

6 

5  4 

9400 

2 

22 

2  6 

2 

14 

2i 

4500 

1   9 

I  1 

3 

6 

6  10 

9500 

2 

23 

2  7 

1 

14 

3i 

4600 

1  10 

1  2 

2 

7 

0  16 

9600 

2 

24 

2  8 

0 

14 

4i 

4700 

1  11 

1  3 

1 

7 

1  21 

9700 

2 

25 

2  8 

5 

14 

51 

4800 

1  12 

1  4 

0 

7 

2  27 

9800 

2 

26 

2  9 

4 

14 

6| 

4900 

1  13 

1  4 

5 

7 

3  32 

9900 

2 

27 

2  10 

3 

15 

1 

521 


1600  Reed  1815  Dents. 
1700  1930  

\      42  INCHES  WIDE.   J  ^  '''!' |So  """!" 

Picks 

aUANTITV  OF  CLOTH 

Picks 

QUANTITY  OP  CLOTH 

or 

Shots 

of 

AT  THB  RATES  OF 

WEFT 

or 

Shots 

of 

AT  THE  RATES  OF 

WEFT 

100  picks 

120  pick 

s 

REftDlRED. 

100  picks    120  pic 

is 

REHUIRED. 

Weft. 

per  inch. 

per  inch. 

Weft. 

pt-r  inch.    per  inc 

fl. 

Thsds. 

Yds.  In. 

Yd.?.  In. 

jihs. 

Spy.  No.  Sk. 

Tlisds. 

Yds.  In. 

Yds.  In. 

13ihs. 

Spy.  No.  Sk. 

10 

2  28 

2  11 

2 

0  15  2 

510 

141  24 

118  2 

0 

43  5  1 

20 

5  20 

4  22 

4 

1  12  4 

520 

144  16 

120  13 

2 

44  2  3 

30 

8  12 

6  34 

0 

2  9  5| 

530 

147  8 

122  24 

4 

44  17  5 

40 

11  4 

9  9 

2 

3  7  Of 

1  540 

150  U 

125  0 

0 

45  15  0 

50 

13  32 

11  20 

4 

4  4  2| 

550 

152  28 

127  11 

2 

46  12  2 

60 

16  24 

13  32 

0 

5  1  4| 

1  560 

155  20 

129  22 

4 

47  9  4 

70 

19  16 

16  7 

2 

5  16  6i 

570 

158  12 

131  34 

0 

48  6  5| 

80 

22  8 

18  18 

4 

6  14  li 

580 

161  4 

134  9 

2 

49  4  C| 

90 

25  0 

20  30 

0 

7  11  3i 

590 

163  32 

136  20 

4 

50  2  2| 

100 

27  28 

23  5 

2 

8  8  5i 

600 

166  24 

138  32 

0 

50  16  4| 

110 

30  20 

25  16 

4 

9  6  Oi 

610 

169  16 

141  7 

2 

51  13  6i 

120 

33  12 

27  28 

0 

10  3  2i 

620 

172  8 

143  18 

4 

52  11  li 

130 

36  4 

30  3 

2 

11  0  4^ 

630 

175  0 

145  30 

0 

53  8  3i 

140 

38  32 

32  14 

4 

11  15  6i 

640 

177  28 

148  5 

2 

54  5  5i 

150 

41  24 

34  26 

0 

12  13  H 

650 

180  20 

150  16 

4 

55  3  l| 

160 

44  16 

37  1 

2 

13  10  3 

660 

183  12 

152  28 

0 

56  0  2^ 

170 

47  8 

39  12 

4 

14  7  5 

670 

186  4 

155  3 

2 

56  15  4i 

180 

50  0 

41  24 

0 

15  5  0 

680 

188  32 

157  14 

4 

57  12  ti 

190 

52  28 

43  35 

2 

16  2  2 

690 

191  24 

159  26 

0 

58  10  li 

200 

55  20 

46  10 

4 

16  17  4 

700 

194  16 

162  1 

2 

59  7  3 

210 

58  12 

48  22 

0 

17  14  5| 

710 

197  8 

164  12 

4 

60  4  5 

220 

61  4 

50  33 

2 

18  12  Of 

720 

200  0 

166  24 

0 

61  2  0 

230 

63  32 

53  8 

4 

19  9  2| 

730 

202  28 

168  35 

2 

61  17  2 

240 

66  24 

55  20 

0 

20  6  4| 

740 

205  20 

171  10 

4 

62  14  4 

250 

69  16 

57  31 

2 

21  3  6i 

750 

208  12 

173  22 

0 

63  11  5| 

260 

72  8 

60  6 

4 

22  1  li 

760 

211  4 

175  33 

2 

64  9  C| 

270 

75  0 

62  18 

0 

22  16  3i 

770 

213  32 

178  8 

4 

65  6  2| 

280 

77  28 

64  29 

2 

23  13  5i 

780 

216  24 

180  20 

0 

66  3  -Jf 

290 

80  20 

67  4 

4 

24  11  Oi 

790 

219  16 

182  31 

2 

67  0  t'i 

300 

83  12 

69  16 

0 

25  8  2i 

800 

222  8 

185  6 

4 

67  16  li 

310 

86  4 

71  27 

2 

26  5  4^ 

810 

225  0 

187  18 

0 

68  13  3i 

320 

88  32 

74  2 

4 

27  2  6i 

820 

227  28 

189  29 

2 

69  10  5i 

330 

91  24 

76  14 

0 

28  0  1 

830 

230  20 

192  4 

4 

70  8  Oi 

340 

94  16 

78  25 

2 

28  15  3 

840 

233  12 

194  16 

0 

71  5  H 

350 

97  8 

81  0 

4 

29  12  5 

850 

236  4 

196  27 

2 

72  2  4i 

360 

100  0 

83  12 

0 

30  10  0 

860 

238  32 

199  2 

4 

72  17  6i 

370 

102  28 

85  23 

2 

31  7  2 

870 

241  24 

201  14 

0 

73  15  1 

380 

105  20 

87  34 

4 

32  4  4 

880 

244  16 

203  25 

2 

74  12  3 

390 

108  12 

90  10 

0 

33  1  5| 

890 

247  8 

206  0 

4 

75  9  5 

400 

111  4 

92  21 

2 

33  17  Of 

900 

250  0 

208  12 

0 

76  7  0 

410 

113  32 

94  32 

4 

34  14  2J 

910 

252  28 

210  23 

2 

77  4  2 

420 

116  24 

97  8 

0 

3.3  11  4| 

920 

255  20 

212  34 

4 

78  1  4 

430 

119  16 

99  19 

2 

36  8  6i 

930 

253  12 

215  10 

0 

78  16  5| 

440 

122  8 

101  30 

4 

37  6  li 

940 

261  4 

217  21 

2 

79  14  0} 

450 

125  0 

104  6 

0 

38  3  3i 

950 

263  32 

219  3<2 

4 

80  11  2J 

460 

127  28 

106  17 

2 

39  0  5i 

960 

266  24 

222  8 

0 

81  8  4| 

470 

130  20 

108  28 

4 

39  16  Oi 

970 

269  16 

224  19 

2 

82  5  6i 

480 

133  12 

111  4 

0 

40  13  2i 

980 

272  8 

226  30 

4 

83  3  li 

490 

136  4 

113  15 

2 

41  10  4i 

990 

275  0 

229  6 

0 

84  0  3i 

500 

138  32 

115  26 

4 

42  7  Ei 

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277  28 

231  17 

2 

84  15  5i 

66 


522 


1200 
1300 

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1545  

\ 

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S  1400  Reed  1666  Dents. 
}   1500  17&7  

Picks  { 

aCASTITY  OF  CLOTH 

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atTANTITY  OF  CLOTH 

or 

AT  THE  RATES  OF 

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or 

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No. 

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300 

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700 

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900 

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6000 

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1100 

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1300 

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6300 

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1400 

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1500 

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6500 

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1600 

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3  74  i 

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1700 

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6700 

31 

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0  10 

5 

1800 

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18 

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6800 

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1900 

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2000 

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19 

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J   44  INCHES,  WIDE,   j  ^000  2378  

Picks 

aUANTITY  OP  CLOTH 

Picks 

aUANTITY  OF  CLOTH 

or 

Shots 

of 

AT  THE  RATES  Of 

WEPT 

or 

Shots 

of 

AT  THE  RATES  OP 

WEFT 

100  picks 

120  pick 

s 

REQUIRED. 

100  picks 

120  picl 

(8 

REQUIRED. 

Weft. 

per  inch. 

per  inch. 

Weft. 

per  inch. 

per  inch. 

Thsds. 

Yds.  In. 

Yds.  In. 

5ths. 

Spy.  No.  Sk. 

Thsds. 

Yds.  In. 

Yds.  In. 

6ths 

Spy.  No.Sk. 

10 

2  28 

2  11 

2 

0  16  0 

510 

141  24 

118  2 

0 

45  6  2 

20 

5  20 

4  22 

4 

1  14  0 

520 

144  16 

120  13 

2 

46  4  2 

30 

8  12 

6  34 

0 

2  12  0 

530 

147  8 

122  24 

4 

47  2  2 

40 

11  4 

9  9 

2 

3  10  Oi 

540 

1.50  0 

125  0 

0 

48  0  2 

50 

13  32 

11  20 

4 

4  8  Oi 

550 

152  28 

127  11 

2 

48  16  2 

60 

16  24 

13  32 

0 

5  6  Oi 

560 

155  20 

129  22 

4 

49  14  2 

70 

19  16 

16  7 

2 

6  4  Oi 

570 

158  12 

131  34 

0 

50  12  2 

80 

22  8 

18  18 

4 

7  2  Oi 

\     580 

161  4 

134  9 

2 

51  10  2 

90 

25  0 

20  30 

0 

8  0  Oi 

1  590 

163  32 

136  20 

4 

52  8  2 

100 

27  23 

23  5 

2 

8  16  Oi 

1  600 

166  24 

138  32 

0 

53  6  2i 

110 

30  20 

25  16 

4 

9  14  Oi 

!  610 

169  16 

141  7 

2 

54  4  2i 

120 

33  12 

27  28 

0 

10  12  i^ 

620 

172  8 

143  18 

4 

55  2  2i 

130 

36  4 

30  3 

2 

11  10  Oi 

630 

175  0 

145  30 

0 

56  0  2i 

140 

38  32 

32  14 

4 

12  8  Oi 

'  640 

177  28 

148  5 

2 

56  16  2i 

150 

41  24 

34  26 

0 

13  6  Oi 

650 

180  20 

150  16 

4 

57  14  2i 

160 

44  16 

37  1 

2 

14  4  Oi 

!  660 

183  12 

152  28 

0 

58  12  2i 

170 

47  8 

39  12 

4 

15  2  Oi 

!  670 

186  4 

155  3 

2 

59  10  2i 

180 

50  0 

41  24 

0 

16  0  0| 

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188  32 

157  14 

4 

60  8  2i 

190 

52  28 

43  35 

2 

16  16  0| 

690 

191  24 

159  26 

0 

61  6  2i 

200 

55  20 

46  10 

4 

17  14  Of 

700 

194  16 

162  1 

2 

62  4  2i 

210 

53  12 

48  22 

0 

18  12  Of 

710 

197  8 

164  12 

4 

63  2  2i 

220 

61  4 

50  33 

2 

19  10  Of' 

720 

200  0 

1G6  24 

0 

64  0  2i 

230 

63  32 

53  8 

4 

20  8  Of 

730 

202  28 

1S8  35 

2 

64  16  2i 

240 

66  24 

55  20 

0 

21  6  1 

i  740 

205  20 

171  10 

4 

65  14  2| 

250 

69  16 

57  31 

2 

22  4  1 

;  750 

208  12 

173  22 

0 

66  12  2i 

260 

72  8 

60  6 

4 

23  2  1 

760 

211  4 

175  33 

2 

67  10  2| 

270 

75  0 

62  18 

0 

24  0  1 

770 

213  .32 

178  8 

4 

68  8  2| 

280 

77  28 

64  29 

2 

24  16  1 

780 

216  24 

180  20 

0 

69  6  2| 

290 

80  20 

67  4 

4 

25  14  1 

790 

219  16 

182  31 

2 

70  4  3 

300 

83  12 

69  16 

0 

26  12  1 

800 

222  8 

185  6 

4 

71  2  3 

310 

86  4 

71  27 

2 

27  10  1 

810 

225  0 

187  18 

0 

72  0  3 

320 

88  32 

74  2 

4 

28  8  1 

820 

227  28 

189  29 

2 

72  16  3 

330 

91  24 

76  14 

0 

29  6  li 

83(1 

230  20 

192  4 

4 

73  14  3 

340 

94  16 

78  25 

2 

30  4  li 

840 

2.33  12 

194  16 

0 

74  12  3 

350 

97  8 

81  0 

4 

31  2  li 

850 

236  4 

196  27 

2 

75  10  3 

360 

100  0 

83  12 

0 

32  0  li 

860 

238  32 

199  2 

4 

76  8  3 

370 

102  28 

85  23 

2 

32  16  li 

870 

241  24 

201  14 

0 

77  6  3i 

380 

105  20 

87  34 

4 

33  14  li 

880 

244  16 

203  25 

0 

78  4  3i 

390 

108  12 

90  10 

0 

.34  12  li 

890 

247  8 

20fi  0 

4 

79  2  3i 

400 

111  4. 

92  21 

2 

35  10  li 

900 

250  0 

208  12 

0 

80  0  3i 

410 

113  32 

94  32 

4 

36  8  li 

910 

252  28 

210  23 

2 

80  16  3i 

420 

116  24 

97  8 

0 

37  6  li 

920 

255  20 

212  .34 

4 

81  14  3i 

430 

119  16 

99  19 

2 

38  4  li 

930 

258  12 

215  10 

0 

82  12  ;ji 

440 

122  8 

101  30 

4 

39  2  li 

940 

261  4 

217  21 

2 

83  10  3i 

450 

125  0 

104  6 

0 

40  0  1| 

950 

263  32 

219  .32 

4  i 

1 

84  8  3i 

460 

127  28 

106  17 

2 

40  16  If 

960 

266  24 

222  8 

0  1 

85  6  3i 

470 

130  20 

108  23 

4 

41  14  1| 

970 

269  16 

224  19 

2 

86  4  2i 

480 

133  12 

111  4 

0 

42  12  IJ 

980 

272  8  !  226  30 

4 

87  2  3i 

490 

136  4 

113  15 

2 

43  10  1| 

990 

275  0  !  229  6 

0 

88  0  3i 

500 

138  32 

115  26 

4 

44  8  l|l 

iMill. 

277  28  :  231  17 

2 

88  16  3 J 

524 


1 

1200 
1300 

Reed  1490  Dents. 
1615  

\ 

46 

INCHES  WIDE. 

! 

1400  Reed  1742  Dents.  } 

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1600  Reed  1987  Dents 
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1 

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Picks 

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550 

152  28 

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51  2  2 

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560 

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80 

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7  7  6 

580 

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590 

163  32 

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100 

27  28 

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600 

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110 

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620 

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57  11  3 

130 

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630 

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140 

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177  28 

148  5 

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150 

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650 

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60  7  4i 

160 

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14  15  5 

660 

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170 

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670 

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200 

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700 

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162  1 

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750 

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260 

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300 

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310 

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238  32 

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370 

102  28 

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380 

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263  32 

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127  28 

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470 

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480 

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490 

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1 

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13  Dents. 
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1 

0  16 

4 

4600 

10 

2 

2 

'8 

0  18 

9600 

2 

24 

2  8 

0 

0  16 

:>i 

4700 

- 

11 

3 

1 

8 

1  36 

9700 

2 

25 

2  8 

5 

0  16 

6i 

4S00 

i   . 

12 

4 

0 

8 

2  53 

9800 

2 

26 

2  9 

4 

0  17 

Of 

4900 

i    ^ 

13 

4 

5 

8 

3  71 

9900 

2 

27 

2  10 

3 

0  17 

2 

527 


1600  Reed  2073  Dents.  ) 
1700  22UG  \ 

48  INCHES  WIDE.   J  ^JJJ  ^''^  2^4^'"*'' 

Picks 

aUANTITV  OP  CLOTH 

Picks 

aUANTITY  OP  CLOTH 

or 
Slidts 

AT  THE  RATES  OF 

WEPT 

or 

Shots 

of 

AT  THE  RATES  OP 

WEFT 

oC 

100  pick. 

120  picks 

REaUlRED. 

1(X)  picks    120  picks 

REaUIRED. 

Weft. 

per  inch 

per  inch. 

Weft 
Thsds 

per  inch.    per  inch. 

Thisds 

Yds.  In. 

Yds.  In.  6ths 

Spy.  No.  Sk 

.  Yds.  In. 

Yds.  In.  6ths 

.  Spy.  No.  Sk. 

IC 

2  28 

2  11   2 

0  17  3^ 

51C 

)  141  24 

118  2  0 

49  8  3i 

20 

5  20 

4  22  4 

1  16  6J 

52C 

144  16 

120  13  2 

50  7  6i 

3C 

8  12 

6  34  0 

2  16  2l 

53C 

147  8 

122  24  4 

51  7  2| 

4C 

11  4 

9  9  2 

3  15  6 

54C 

150  0 

125  0  0 

52  6  6 

50 

13  32 

11  20  4 

4  15  2 

55C 

152  28 

127  11  2 

53  6  2i 

60 

16  24 

13  32  0 

5  14  5i 

56C 

155  20 

129  22  4 

54  5  H 

70 

19  16 

16  7  2 

6  14  1^ 

570 

158  12 

131  34  0 

55  5  1| 

80 

22  8 

18  18  4 

7  13  4| 

580 

161  4 

134  9  2 

56  4  5 

90 

25  0 

20  30  0 

8  13  1 

590 

163  32 

136  20  4 

57  4  1 

100 

27  28 

23  5  2 

9  12  li 

600 

166  24 

138  32  0 

58  3  4i 

110 

30  20 

25  16  4 

10  12  Oi 

610 

169  16 

141  7  2 

59  3  04 

120 

33  12 

27  28  0 

11  11  3| 

620 

172  8 

143  18  4 

60  2  3| 

130 

36  4 

30  3  2 

12  11  0 

630 

175  0 

145  30  0 

61  2  0 

140 

38  32 

32  14  4 

13  10  3 

640 

177  28 

148  5  2 

62  1  3i 

150 

41  24 

34  26  0 

14  9  6i 

650 

180  20 

150  16  4 

63  0  64 

160 

44  16 

37  1  2 

15  9  2i 

660 

183  12 

152  28  0 

64  0  2| 

170 

47  8 

39  12  4 

16  8  5i 

670 

186  4 

155  3  2 

64  17  6 

180 

50  0 

41  24  0 

17  8  2 

680 

188  32 

157  14  4 

65  17  2 

190 

52  28 

43  35  2 

18  7  5i 

690 

191  24 

159  26  0 

66  16  5i 

200 

55  20 

46  10  4 

19  7  li 

700 

194  16 

162  1  2 

67  16  14 

210 

58  12 

48  22  0 

20  6  4i 

710 

197  8 

164  12  4 

68  15  4| 

220 

61  4 

50  33  2 

21  6  1 

720 

200  0 

166  24  0 

69  15  1 

230 

63  32 

53  8  4 

22  5  4 

730 

202  28 

168  35  2 

70  14  4i 

240 

66  24 

55  20  0 

23  5  0^ 

740 

205  20 

171  10  4 

71  14  04 

250 

69  Ifi 

57  31  2 

24  4  3i 

750 

208  12 

173  22  0 

72  13  3| 

260 

72  8 

60  6  4 

25  3  6| 

760 

211  4 

175  33  2 

73  13  0 

270 

75  0 

62  18  0 

26  3  3 

770 

213  32 

178  8  4 

74  12  3 

280 

77  28 

64  29  2 

27  2  Ci 

780 

216  24 

180  20  0 

75  11  6i 

290 

80  20 

67  4  4 

28  2  2i 

790 

219  16 

182  31  2 

76  11  24 

300 

83  12 

69  16  0 

29  1  5i 

800 

222  8 

185  6  4 

77  10  5| 

310 

86  4 

71  27  2 

30  1  ^ 

810 

225  0 

187  18  0 

78  10  1 

320 

88  32 

74  2  4 

31  0  5 

820 

227  28 

189  29  2 

79  9  4i 

330 

91  24 

76  14  0 

32  0  2i 

830 

230  20 

192  4  4 

80  9  04 

340 

94  16 

78  25  2 

32  17  5i 

840 

233  12 

194  16  0 

81  8  34 

350 

97  8 

81  0  4 

33  17  1| 

850 

236  4 

196  27  2 

82  8  0 

360 

100  0 

83  12  0 

34  16  5 

860 

238  32 

199  2  4 

83  7  3 

370 

102  23 

85  23  2 

35  16  H 

870 

241  24 

201  14  0 

84  6  ei 

380 

105  20 

87  34  4 

36  15  44 

880 

244  16 

203  25  2 

85  6  24 

390 

108  12 

90  10  0 

37  15  Oi 

890 

247  8 

206  0  4 

86  5  5i 

400 

111  4 

92  21  2 

38  14  3 

900 

250  0 

208  12  0 

87  5  3 

410 

113  32 

94  32  4 

39  13  6 

910 

252  28 

210  23  2 

88  4  Si 

1 

420 

116  24 

97  8  0 

40  12  2i 

920 

255  20 

212  34  4 

89  4  24 

430 

119  16 

99  19  2 

41  11  5i 

930 

258  12 

215  10  0 

90  3  5| 

440 

122  8 

101  30  4 

42  11  1| 

940 

261  4 

217  21  2 

91  3  2 

450' 

125  0 

104  6  0 

43  11  5 

950 

263  32 

219  32  4 

92  2  5 

460 1 

127  28 

106  17  2 

44  11  H 

960 

266  24 

222  8  0 

93  2  H 

470' 

130  20 

108  28  4 

45  10  44 

970 

269  16 

224  19  2 

94  1  44 

I 

480 

133  12 

111  4  0 

46  10  Oi 

980 

272  8 

226  30  4 

95  1  0^ 

490 

136  4 

113  15  2 

47  9  4 

990 

275  0 

229  6  0 

96  0  4i 

500 

138  32 

115  26  4 

48  9  0 

iMill. 

277  28 

231  17  2 

97  0  0 

528 


1200 
130U 

Reed  1618  Dents. 
1755  

1 

50 

INCHES  WIDE. 

i 

1400  Reed  1894  Dents. 
1500  i03o 

!  Picks 

aOANTlTY  OF 

CLOTH 

1 

Picks 

aUANTlTT  OF  CLOTH 

1 

or 

AT  THE  RATES  OF 

WEFT    1 

or 
Shots 

AT  THE  KATES  OF 

WEFT    1 

1 

Shots 

I 

of 

100  picks 

120  picks 

REaUIRED.  1 

of 

100  picks 

120  picks 

REaUIRED.  1 

Weft. 

per  inch. 

per  iiirf 

1  _ 

1 

1 

Weft. 

per  inch. 

per  inch. 

Yds. 

In. 

Yds 

m.  6ths. 

No. 

Sk.Thd.l 

Yds 

In. 

Yds.  In.  Oths. 

Spy.  No 

Sk 

50 

0 

h 

0 

0 

2i 

0 

0  51  : 

5000 

14 

1   5 

4 

U   9 

L| 

100 

0 

1 

0 

0 

5 

0 

1  22 

5100 

15 

1   6 

3 

0  9 

2 

200 

0 

2 

0 

1 

4 

0 

2  44 

5200 

16 

1   7 

2 

0  9 

H 

300 

0 

3 

0 

2 

3 

0 

3  66 

530U 

17 

1  8 

1 

0  9 

H 

400 

0 

4 

0 

3 

2 

0 

5  8 

5400 

18 

1  9 

0 

0  9 

H 

500 

0 

5 

0 

4 

1 

0 

6  30 

5500 

19 

1  9 

5 

0  10 

0 

600 

0 

6 

0 

5 

0 

1 

0  52  ! 

5600 

20 

1  10 

4 

0  10 

H 

700 

0 

7 

0 

5 

5 

1 

1  73  i 

5700 

21 

1  11 

3 

0  10 

2i 

800 

0 

8 

0 

6 

4 

1 

3  15 

5800 

22 

1  12 

2 

0  10 

H 

900 

0 

9 

0 

7 

3 

1 

4  37 

5900 

23 

1  13 

1 

0  10 

5 

1000 

0 

10 

0 

8 

2 

1 

5  59 

6000 

24 

1  14 

0 

0  10 

ei\ 

1100 

0 

11 

0 

9 

1 

2 

0  0  1 

6100 

25 

1  14 

5 

0  11 

(J| 

1200 

0 

12 

0 

10 

0 

2 

1  22 

6200 

26 

1  15 

4 

0  11 

2 

1300 

0 

13 

0 

10 

5 

2 

2  44 

6300 

27 

1  16 

3 

0  11 

H 

1400 

0 

14 

0 

11 

4 

2 

3  66 

6400 

28 

1  17 

2 

0  11 

4i 

1500 

0 

15 

0 

12 

3 

2 

5  8 

6500 

29 

1  18 

1 

0  11 

5| 

1600 

0 

16 

0 

13 

2 

2 

6  30 

6600 

30 

1  19 

0 

0  12 

0 

1700 

0 

17 

0 

14 

1 

3 

0  52 

6700 

31 

1  19 

5 

0  12 

n 

1800 

0 

18 

0 

15 

0 

3 

1  73 

6800 

32 

1  20 

4 

0  12 

n\ 

1900 

0 

19 

0 

15 

5 

3 

3  15  1 

6900 

33 

1  21 

3 

0  12 

H 

2000 

0 

20 

0 

16 

4 

3 

4  37 

7000 

34 

1  22 

2 

0  12 

5 

2100 

0 

21 

0 

17 

3 

3 

5  59  ' 

7100 

35 

1  23 

1 

0  12 

H 

2200 

0 

22 

0 

18 

2 

4 

0  0 

7200 

2 

0 

1  24 

0 

0  13 

Of 

2300 

0 

23 

0 

19 

1 

4 

1  22 

7300 

2 

1 

1  24 

5 

0  13 

2 

2400 

0 

24 

0 

20 

0 

4 

2  44 

7400 

2 

2 

1  25 

4 

0  13 

H 

2500 

0 

25 

0 

20 

5 

4 

3  66 

7500 

2 

3 

1  26 

3 

0  13 

4i 

2600 

0 

26 

0 

21 

4 

4 

5  8 

7600 

2 

4 

1  27 

2 

0  13 

5| 

2700 

0 

27 

0 

22 

3 

4 

6  30 

7700 

2 

5 

1  23 

1 

0  14 

0 

2800 

0 

28 

0 

23 

2 

5 

0  52 

7800 

2 

6 

1  29 

0 

0  14 

H 

2900 

0 

29 

0 

24 

1 

5 

1  73 

7900 

2 

7 

1  29 

5 

0  14 

2i 

3000 

0 

30 

0 

25 

0 

5 

3  15 

8000 

2 

8 

1  30 

4 

0  14 

3| 

3100 

0 

31 

0 

25 

5 

5 

4  37 

8100 

2 

9 

1  31 

3 

0  14 

5 

3200 

0 

32 

0 

26 

4 

5 

5  59 

8200 

2 

10 

1  32 

2 

0  14 

H 

3300 

0 

33 

0 

27 

3 

6 

0  0 

8300 

2 

11 

1  33 

1 

0  15 

0| 

3400 

0 

34 

0 

28 

2 

6 

1  22 

8400 

2 

12 

1  34 

0 

0  15 

2 

3500 

0 

35 

0 

29 

1 

6 

2  44 

8500 

2 

13 

1  34 

5 

0  15 

3i 

3600 

0 

0 

30 

0 

6 

3  66  I 

8600 

2 

14 

1  35 

4 

0  15 

4i 

3700 

1 

0 

30 

5 

6 

5  8  •' 

8700 

2 

15 

2  0 

3 

0  15 

51 

3800 

2 

0 

31 

4 

6 

6  30  j 

8800 

2 

16 

2  1 

2 

0  16 

0 

3900 

3 

0 

32 

3 

7 

0  52  1 

8900 

2 

17 

2  2 

1 

0  16 

li 

4000 

4 

0 

33 

2 

7 

1  73 

9000 

2 

18 

2  3 

0 

0  16 

2i 

4100 

5 

0 

34 

1 

7 

3  15  1 

9100 

2 

19 

2  3 

5 

0  16 

31 

4200 

6 

0 

35 

0 

7 

4  37 

9200 

2 

20 

2  4 

4 

0  16 

5 

4300 

7 

0 

35 

5 

7 

5  59 

9300 

2 

21 

2  5 

3 

0  16 

6i 

4400 

8 

1 

0 

4 

8 

0  0 

9400 

2 

22 

2  6 

2 

0  17 

Oi 

4500 

9 

1 

3 

8 

1  22 

9500 

2 

23 

2  7 

1 

0  17 

2 

4600 

10 

2 

2 

8 

2  44 

9600 

2 

24 

2  8 

0 

0  17 

3i 

4700 

11 

3 

1 

8 

3  66 

9700 

2 

25 

2  8 

5 

0  17 

4i 

4800 

12 

4 

0 

8 

5  8 

9800 

2 

26 

2  9 

4 

0  17 

51 

4900 

1  1 

13 

4 

5 

8 

6  30 

9900 

2 

27 

2  10 

3 

1  0 

0 

529 


1600  Reed  2159  Dents 
1700  2298  

I      50 

INCHES  WIDE,   j  ^  I^-«i  2,^02  "".T 

Picks 

QUANTITY  OP  CLOTH 

Picks 

aUANTITY  OF  CLOTH 

or 

Shots 

of 

AT  THE  RATBS  01 

WEFT 

or 

Shots 

of 

AT  THE  RATES  OF 

WEFT 

100  picks 

120  picks 

REaUIRED. 

100  picks 

120  picks 

REaUIRED. 

Weft. 

per  inch. 

per  inch. 

Weft. 

per  inch. 

per  inch. 

Thsds. 

Yds.  In. 

Yds.  In. 

5ths. 

Spy. 

No.  Sk. 

Thsds. 

Yds.  In. 

Yds.  In. 

6ths 

Spy.  No.  Sk. 

10 

2  28 

2  11 

2 

1 

0  H 

510 

141  24 

118  2 

0 

51  9  4 

20 

5  20 

4  22 

4 

2 

0  2i 

520 

144  16 

120  13 

2 

52  9  5i 

30 

8  12 

6  34 

0 

3 

0  4 

530 

147  8 

122  24 

4 

53  9  6i 

40 

11  4 

9  9 

2 

4 

0  5i 

540 

150  0 

125  0 

0 

54  10  1 

50 

13  32 

11  20 

4 

5 

0  6i 

550 

152  28 

127  11 

2 

55  10  2ii 

60 

16  24 

13  32 

0 

6 

1  1 

560 

155  20 

129  22 

4 

56  10  3i 

70 

19  16 

16  7 

2 

7 

1  2i 

570 

158  12 

131  34 

0 

57  10  5 

80 

22  8 

18  18 

4 

8 

1  3i 

580 

161  4 

134  9 

2 

58  10  6i 

90 

25  0 

20  30 

0 

9 

1  4| 

590 

163  32 

136  20 

4 

59  11  Oi 

100 

27  28 

23  5 

2 

10 

1  6 

600 

166  24 

138  32 

0 

60  11  2 

110 

30  20 

25  16 

4 

11 

2  Oi 

610 

169  16 

141  7 

2 

61  11  3i 

120 

33  12 

27  28 

0 

12 

2  1| 

620 

172  8 

143  18 

4 

62  11  4i 

130 

36  4 

30  3 

2 

13 

2  3 

630 

175  0 

145  30 

0 

63  11  5| 

140 

38  32 

32  14 

4 

14 

2  4i 

640 

177  28 

148  5 

2 

64  12  0 

150 

41  24 

34  26 

0 

15 

2  5| 

650 

180  20 

150  16 

4 

65  12  li 

160 

44  16 

37  1 

2 

16 

3  0 

660 

183  12 

152  28 

0 

66  12  2| 

170 

47  8 

39  12 

4 

17 

3  li 

670 

186  4 

155  3 

2 

67  12  4 

180 

50  0 

41  24 

0 

18 

3  2i 

680 

188  32 

157  14 

4 

68  12  5i 

190 

52  28 

43  35 

2 

19 

3  4 

690 

191  24 

159  26 

0 

69  12  6| 

200 

55  20 

46  10 

4 

20 

3  5i 

700 

194  16 

162  1 

2 

70  13  1 

210 

58  12 

48  22 

0 

21 

3  6i 

710 

197  8 

164  12 

4 

71  13  2i 

220 

61  4 

50  33 

2 

22 

4  1 

720 

200  0 

166  24 

0 

72  13  3| 

230 

63  32 

53  8 

4 

23 

4  2i 

730 

202  28 

168  35 

2 

73  13  5 

240 

66  24 

55  20 

0 

24 

4  3i 

740 

205  20 

171  10 

4 

74  13  6i 

250 

69  16 

57  31 

2 

25 

4  4| 

750 

208  12 

173  22 

0 

75  14  Oi 

260 

72  8 

60  6 

4 

26 

4  6i 

760 

211  4 

175  33 

2 

76  14  2 

270 

75  0 

62  18 

0 

27 

5  Oi 

770 

213  32 

178  8 

4 

77  14  3i 

280 

77  28 

64  29 

2 

28 

5  If 

780 

216  24 

180  20 

0 

78  14  4i 

290 

80  20 

67  4 

4 

29 

5  3 

790 

219  16 

182  31 

2 

79  14  5| 

300 

83  12 

69  16 

0 

30 

5  4i 

800 

222  8 

185  6 

4 

80  15  0 

310 

86  4 

71  27 

2 

31 

5  5| 

810 

225  0 

187  18 

0 

81  15  li 

320 

88  32 

74  2 

4 

32 

6  0 

820 

227  28 

189  29 

2 

82  15  2| 

330 

91  24 

76  14 

0 

33 

6  U 

830 

230  20 

192  4 

4 

83  15  4 

340 

94  16 

78  25 

2 

34 

6  2| 

840 

233  12 

194  16 

0 

84  15  5i 

350 

97  8 

81  0 

4 

35 

6  4 

850 

236  4 

196  27 

2 

85  15  6| 

360 

100  0 

83  12 

0 

36 

6  5i 

860 

238  32 

199  2 

4 

SG   16  1 

370 

102  28 

85  23 

2 

37 

6  6i 

870 

241  24 

201  14 

0 

87  16  2^ 

380 

105  20 

87  34 

4 

38 

7  1 

880 

244  16 

203  25 

2 

88  16  3| 

390 

108  12 

90  10 

0 

39 

7  2i 

890 

247  8 

206  0 

4 

89  16  5 

400 

111  4 

92  21 

2 

40 

7  3i 

900 

250  0 

208  12 

0 

90  16  6i 

410 

113  32 

94  32 

4 

41 

7  5 

910 

252  28 

210  23 

2 

91  17  Oi 

420 

116  24 

97  8 

0 

42 

7  6i 

920 

255  20 

212  34 

4 

92  17  2 

430 

119  16 

99  19 

2 

43 

8  Oi 

930 

258  12 

215  10 

0 

93  17  3i 

440 

122  8 

101  30 

4 

44 

8  H 

940 

261  4 

217  21 

2 

94  17  4i 

450 

125  0 

104  6 

0 

45 

8  3 

950 

2G3  32 

219  32 

4 

95  17  6 

460 

127  28 

106  17 

2 

46 

8  4i 

960 

266  24 

222  8 

0 

97  0  Oi 

470 

130  20 

108  28 

4 

47 

8  5| 

970 

269  16 

224  19 

2 

98  0  li 

480 

133  12 

111  4 

0 

48 

9  0 

980 

272  8 

226  30 

4 

99  0  3 

490 

136  4 

113  15 

2 

49 

9  li 

990 

275  0 

229  6 

0  1 

100  0  4 

500 

138  32 

115  26 

4 

50 

9  2| 

iMill. 

277  28 

231  17 

2  1 

101  0  5i 

67 


530 

1200  Reed  16S2  Dents. 
1300  1825  

I     52  INCHES  WIDE. 

\ 

1400  Reed  1970  Dents. 
1500  2117 

Picks 

aDANTITY  OF  CLOTH 

i 

Picks 

aUANTITY  OF  CLOTH 

or 

AT  THI 

RATES  OF 

WEFT 

or 

Sliots 

of 

AT  THE  KATES  OP 

WEFT 

Shots 
ot" 

100  picks 

120  pick 

s 

REQUIRED. 

100  picks 

120  pick 

s 

REQUIRED. 

Wert. 

per  iuch. 

per  incl 

. 

i 

Weft. 

per  inch. 

per  inch. 

Yds 

In. 

Yds.  In.  6ths. 

No. 

Sk.Thd.' 

Yds 

.   In. 

Yds.  In.  6lhs. 

Spy.  No 

.Sk. 

50 

0 

i 

0   0 

2i 

0 

0  53 

5000 

14 

1   5 

4 

0   9 

H 

100 

0 

1 

0   0 

5 

0 

1  26 

5100 

15 

1   6 

3 

0   9 

H 

200 

0 

2 

0   1 

4 

0 

2  52 

5200 

16 

1  7 

2 

0  9 

5| 

300 

0 

3 

0   2 

3 

0 

3  78 

5300 

17 

1  8 

1 

0  10 

0 

400 

0 

4 

0   3 

0 

0 

5  24 

5400 

18 

1  9 

0 

0  10 

li 

500 

0 

5 

0   4 

1 

0 

6  50 

5500 

19 

1  9 

5 

0  10 

2| 

600 

0 

6 

0   5 

0 

1 

0  76 

5600 

20 

1  10 

4 

0  10 

4 

700 

0 

7 

0  ,  5 

5 

1 

2  22 

5700 

-t 

21 

1  11 

3 

0  10 

5i 

800 

0 

8 

0   6 

4 

1 

3  47 

5800 

22 

1  12 

2 

0  10 

6J 

900 

0 

9 

0   7 

3 

1 

4  73 

5900 

23 

1  13 

1 

0  11 

1 

1000 

0 

10 

0   8 

2 

1 

6  19 

6000 

24 

1  14 

0 

0  11 

n 

1100 

0 

11 

0   9 

1 

2 

U  45 

6100 

25 

1  14 

5 

0  11 

3| 

1200 

0 

12 

0  10 

0 

2 

1  71 

6200 

26 

1  15 

4 

0  11 

5 

1300 

0 

13 

0  10 

5 

2 

3  17 

6300 

27 

1  16 

3 

0  11 

6i 

1400 

0 

14 

0  11 

4 

2 

4  43 

6400 

28 

1  17 

2 

0  12 

0| 

1500 

0 

15 

0  12 

3 

2 

5  69 

6500 

29 

1  18 

1 

0  12 

2 

1600 

0 

16 

0  13 

2 

3 

0  15 

6600 

30 

1  19 

0 

0  12 

3 

1700 

0 

17 

0  14 

1 

3 

1  41 

6700 

31 

1  19 

5 

0  12 

4| 

1800 

0 

18 

0  15 

0 

3 

2  67 

6800 

32 

1  20 

4 

0  12 

6 

1900 

0 

19 

0  15 

5 

3 

4  13 

6900 

33 

1  21 

3 

0  13 

Oi 

2000 

0 

20 

0  16 

4 

3 

5  39 

7000 

34 

1  22 

2 

0  13 

li 

2100 

0 

21 

0  17 

3 

3 

6  64 

7100 

35 

1  23 

1 

0  13 

3 

2200 

0 

22 

0  13 

2 

4 

1  10 

7200 

2 

0 

1  24 

0 

0  13 

4i 

2300 

0 

23 

0  19 

1 

.4 

2  36 

7300 

2 

1 

1  24 

5 

0  13 

5i 

2400 

0 

24 

0  20 

0 

4 

3  62 

7400 

2 

2 

1  25 

4 

0  14 

0  i 

2500 

0 

25 

0  20 

5 

4 

5  8 

7500 

2 

3 

1  26 

3 

0  14 

H 

2600 

0 

26 

0  21 

4 

4 

6  34 

7600 

2 

4 

1  27 

2 

0  14 

2i 

2700 

0 

27 

0  22 

3 

5 

0  60 

7700 

2 

5 

1  28 

1 

0  14 

4 

2800 

0 

28 

0  23 

2 

5 

2  6 

7800 

2 

6 

1  29 

0 

0  14 

5i 

2900 

0 

29 

0  24 

1 

5 

3  32 

7900 

2 

7 

1  29 

5 

0  14 

6i 

3000 

0 

30 

0  25 

0 

5 

4  57 

8000 

2 

8 

1  30 

4 

0  15 

1 

3100 

0 

31 

0  25 

5 

5 

6  4 

8100 

2 

9 

1  31 

3 

0  15 

2i 

3200 

0 

32 

0  26 

4 

6 

0  30 

8200 

2 

10 

1  32 

2 

0  15 

3i 

3300 

0 

33 

0  27 

3 

6 

1  56 

8300 

2 

11 

1  33 

1 

0  15 

5 

3400 

0 

34 

0  28 

2 

6 

3  2 

8400 

2 

12 

1  34 

0 

0  15 

H 

3500 

0 

35 

0  29 

1 

6 

4  27 

8500 

2 

13 

1  34 

5 

0  16 

H 

3600 

0 

0  30 

0 

6 

5  53 

8600 

2 

14 

1  35 

4 

0  16 

li 

3700 

1 

0  30 

5 

6 

6  79 

8700 

2 

15 

2  0 

3 

0  16 

3i 

3800 

2 

0  31 

4 

7 

1  25 

8800 

2 

16 

2  1 

2 

0  16 

4i 

3900 

3 

0  32 

3 

7 

2  51 

8900 

2 

17 

2  2 

1 

0  16 

5| 

4000 

4 

0  33 

2 

7 

3  77 

9000 

2 

18 

2  3 

0 

0  17 

0 

4100 

5 

0  34 

1 

7 

5  23 

9100 

2 

19 

2  3 

5 

0  17 

H 

4200 

6 

0  35 

0 

7 

6  49 

9200 

2 

20 

2  4 

4 

0  17 

2| 

4300 

7 

0  35 

5 

8 

0  75 

9300 

2 

21 

2  5 

3 

0  17 

4 

4400 

1 

8 

1   0 

4 

8 

2  21 

9400 

2 

22 

2  6 

2 

0  17 

5i 

4500 

9 

1   1 

3 

8 

3  47 

9500 

2 

23 

2  7 

1 

0  17 

6| 

4600 

10 

1   2 

2 

8 

4  73 

9600 

2 

24 

2  8 

0 

1  0 

1 

4700 

11 

1   3 

1 

8 

6  19 

9700 

2 

25 

2  8 

5 

1  0 

0 

4800 

12 

1   4 

0 

9 

0  44 

9800 

2 

26 

2  9 

4 

1  0 

h 

4900 

13 

1   4 

5   9 

1  70 

9900 

2 

27 

2  10 

3  j  1  0 

5 

531 


1600  Reed  2245  Dents. 
1700  2390  


52  INCHES   WIDE. 


1800  Reed  25.35  Dents. 


2000 


2810 


Picks 

or 
Shots 

of 
Weft. 


Tlisds. 
10 
20 
30 
40 
50 

60 
70 
80 
90 
100 

110 
120 
130 
140 
150 

160 
170 
180 
190 
200 

210 
220 
230 
240 
250 

260 
270 

280 
290 
300 

310 
320 
330 
340 
350 

360 
370 
3''0 
390 


aUANTITY  OP  CLOTH 
AT  THE  RATES  OP 


100  picks 
per  inch. 


400  111  4 


410 
420 
430 
440 
450 

460 
470 
480 
490 
500 


Yds.  In. 

2  28 

5  20 

8  12 

11  4 

13  32 

16  24 
19  16 
22  8 
25  0 

27  28 

30  20 
33  12 
36  4 
38  32 

41  24 

44  16 
47  8 
50  0 
52  28 
55  20 

58  12 
61  4 
63  32 
66  24 
69  16 

72  8 
75  0 
77  28 
80  20 
83  12 

86  4 
88  .32 
91  24 
94  16 
97  8 

100  0 
102  28 
105  20 
108  12 


120  picks 
per  inch. 


WEFT 
REauiRED. 


Yds.  In.  6ths 


113  32 
116  24 
119  16 
122  8 
125  0 

127  28 
130  20 
133  12 
136  4 
138  32 


2  11 
4  22 
6  34 
9  9 
.  11  20 

13  3X 

16  7 
18  18 
20  30 
23  5 

25  16 
27  28 
30  3 
32  14 
34  26 

37  1 
39  12 
41  24 
43  35 
46  10 

48  22 
50  33 
53  8 
55  20 
57  31 


60  6  4 

62  18  0 

64  29  2 

67  4  4 

69  16  0 


71  27  2 

74  2  4 

76  14  0 

78  25  2 

61  0  4 

83  12  0 

85  23  2 

87  34  4 

90  10  0 

92  21  2 

94  32  4 

97  8  0 

99  19  2 

101  30  4 

104  6 


106  17 
108  28 
111  4 
113  15 
115  26 


Spy.  No.  Sk, 


1 
2 

3 
4 
5 

6 

7 

8 

9 

10 


0  6i 

1  5| 

2  5i 

3  4i 

4  4 

5  3^ 

6  2| 

7  2 

8  U 

9  1 


11  10  Oi 

12  10  G^ 

13  11  ei 

14  12  5i 

15  13  5 

16  14  4i 

17  15  3| 

18  16 

19  17  2i 
21  0  2 


23 
24 
25 
26 

27 
28 
29 
30 
31 


1  li 

2  1 

3  Oi 

3  6^ 

4  6 

5  5i 

6  5  I 

7  4i 

8  3i 

9  3 


32  10  2i 

33  11  1| 

34  12  li 

35  13  Of 

36  14  0 

37  14  6i 

38  15  5i 

39  16  5 

40  17  4 
42  0  4 


43 
44 
45 
46 

47 


1  3i 

2  2| 

3  2i 

4  li 

5  1 


48  6  Oi 

49  6  6| 

50  7  6i 

51  8  5i 


Picks 

or 
Shots 

of 
Weft. 


Thsds. 
510 
520 
530 
540 
550 

560 
570 
580 
590 
600 


aUANTITY  OP  CLOTH 
AT  THE  RATES  OF 


100  picks 
per  inch. 


620 
630 
640 
650 

660 
670 
680 
690 
700 

710 
720 
730 
740 
750 

760 
770 
780 
790 
800 

810 
820 
830 
840 


Yds.  In. 
141  24 
lU  16 
147  8 
150  0 
152  28 

155  20 

158  12 
161  4 
163  32 
166  24 


120  picks 
per  inch. 


610  169  16 


172  8 
175  0 

177  28 
180  20 

183  12 

186  4 
188  .32 
191  24 
194  16 

197  8 
200  0 
202  28 
205  20 
208  12 

211  4 
213  32 

216  24 
219  16 
222  8 

225  0 
227  28 
230  20 
23^  12 


Yds.  In.  6ths 
118  2  0 
120  13  2 
122  24  4 
125  0  0 
127  11  2 


WEFT 
REaCIRED. 


129  22  4 

131  34  0 

134  9  2 

136  20  4 

138  32  0 

141  7  2 

143  18  4 

145  30  0 

148  5  2 

150  16  4 

152  28  0 

155  3  2 

157  14  4 

159  26  0 

162  1  2 


Spy.  No.  Sk. 

53  10  4i 

54  11  4 

55  12  3i 
55  13  2| 

57  14  2i 

58  15  1 

59  16  li 

60  17  Oi 

61  17  6| 
63  0  Gi 


164  12 
166  24 
168  35 
171  10 
173  22 

175  33 

178  8 
180  20 
1S2  31 
185  6 


64 
65 
66 
67 

68 

69 
70 
71 
72 
73 


6  H 

7  2 

8  Ji 

9  Oi 
10  0 


74  10  Ci 

75  11  6 

76  12  5i 

77  13  4^ 

78  14  4i 

79  15  3i 

80  16  3 

81  17  2i 

83  0  ]| 

84  1  1 


850  236  4 

860  238  32 
870  241  24 


880 
890 
900 

910 
920 
930 
940 
950 

960 
970 
980 


244  16 
247  8 
250  0 

252  28 
255  20 
258  12 
261  4 
263  32 

266  24 
269  16 
272  8 


990  275  0 

iMill.l  277  28 


187  18 

0 

189  29 

2 

192  4 

4 

194  16 

0 

196  27 

2 

199  2 

4 

201  14 

0 

203  25 

2 

206  0 

4 

208  12 

0 

85 
86 
87 
88 
89 


2  Oi 

3  0 

3  6i 

4  5| 

5  5 


210  23 
212  34 
215  10 
217  21 
219  32 

222  8 
224  19 
226  30 
229  6 
231  17 


90  6  4i 

91  7  4 

92  8  3i 

93  9  2i 

94  10  2i 

95  11  li 

96  12  1 

97  13  Oi 

98  13  Ci 

99  14  6i 

'lOO  15  5i 
101  16  5 

il02  17  4i 
!l04  0  3| 
105  1  3i| 


532 


120( 
130C 

)  Reed  1746  Dents.  ) 
1896  I 

54  INCHES  WIDE. 

'  \ 

1400  Reed  2046  Dents. 
1500  2199 

Picks 

aUANTITY  OP 

CLOTH 

Picks 

QUANTITY  OP  CLOTH 

or 

AT  THE  RATES  OF 

WEFT 

or 
Shots 

AT  THE  RATES  OF 

WEFT 

Shots 

of 

100  picks 

120  picks 

REaCIRED. 

of 

100  picks 

120  picl 

ES 

REQUIRES. 

Weft. 

per  i 

ich. 

per  inch. 

Weft. 

per 

uch. 

per  inch. 

Yds 

In. 

Vds 

In.  6ths. 

No. 

Sk.Thd. 

Yds 

.  In. 

Yds.  In. 

5th9. 

Spy.  No.  Sk. 

50 

0 

h 

0 

0  2i 

0 

0  55 

5000 

14 

1   5 

4 

0  9 

5* 

100 

0 

1 

0 

0  5 

0 

1  30 

5100 

15 

1   6 

3 

0  10 

0 

200 

0 

0 

0 

1  4 

0 

2  60 

5200 

16 

1  7 

2 

0  10 

H 

300 

0 

3 

0 

2  3 

0 

4  10 

5300 

17 

1  8 

1 

0  10 

2| 

400 

0 

4 

0 

3  2 

0 

5  40 

5400 

18 

1  9 

0 

0  10 

4i 

500 

0 

5 

0 

4  1 

0 

6  70 

5500 

19 

1  9 

5 

0  10 

5i 

600 

0 

6 

0 

5  0 

1 

1  20 

5600 

20 

1  10 

4 

0  11 

0 

700 

0 

7 

0 

5  5 

1 

2  50 

5700 

21 

1  11 

3 

0  11 

H 

800 

0 

8 

0 

6  4 

1 

4  0 

5800 

22 

1  12 

2 

0  11 

2| 

900 

0 

9 

0 

7  3 

1 

5  30 

5900 

23 

1  13 

1 

0  11 

4 

1000 

0 

10 

0 

8  2 

1 

6  60 

6000 

24 

1  14 

0 

0  11 

5i 

1100 

0 

11 

0 

9  1 

2 

1  10 

6100 

25 

1  14 

5 

0  11 

6| 

1200 

0 

12 

0 

10  0 

o 

2  40 

6200 

26 

1  15 

4 

0  12 

H 

1300 

0 

13 

0 

10  5 

2 

3  70 

6300 

27 

1  16 

3 

0  12 

2i 

1400 

0 

14 

0 

11  4 

2 

5  20 

6400 

28 

1  17 

2 

0  12 

4 

i 

1 

1500 

0 

15 

0 

12  3 

2 

6  50 

6500 

29 

1  18 

1 

0  12 

5i 

1600 

0 

16 

0 

13  2 

3 

1  0 

6600 

30 

1  19 

0 

0  12 

6| 

1700 

0 

17 

0 

14  1 

3 

2  30 

6700 

31 

1  19 

5 

0  13 

1 

1800 

0 

18 

0 

15  0 

3 

3  60 

6800 

32 

1  20 

4 

0  13 

H 

1900 

0 

19 

0 

15  5 

3 

5  10 

6900 

33 

1  21 

3 

0  13 

4 

2000 

0 

20 

0 

16  4 

3 

6  40 

7000 

34 

1  22 

2 

0  13 

5i 

2100 

0 

21 

0 

17  3 

4 

0  70 

7100 

35 

1  23 

1 

0  13 

H 

2200 

0 

22 

0 

18  2 

4 

2  20 

7200 

2 

0 

1  24 

0 

0  14 

1 

2300 

0 

23 

0 

19  1 

4 

3  50 

7300 

2 

1 

1  24 

5 

0  14 

2i 

2400 

0 

24 

0 

20  0 

4 

5  0 

7400 

2 

o 

1  25 

4 

0  14 

3| 

2500 

0 

25 

0 

20  5 

4 

6  30 

7500 

2 

3 

1  26 

3 

0  14 

5 

2600 

0 

26 

0 

21  4 

5 

0  60 

7600 

o 

4 

1  27 

2 

0  14 

6i 

2700 

0 

27 

0 

22  3 

5 

2  10 

7700 

2 

5 

1  28 

1 

0  15 

1 

2800 

0 

28 

0 

23  2 

5 

3  40 

7800 

2 

6 

1  29 

0 

0  15 

2i 

2900 

0 

29 

0 

24  1 

5 

4  70 

7900 

2 

7 

1  29 

5 

0  15 

H 

3000 

0 

30 

0 

25  0 

5 

6  20 

8000 

2 

8 

1  30 

4 

0  15 

5 

3100 

0 

31 

0 

25  5 

6 

0  50 

8100 

2 

9 

1  31 

3 

0  15 

H 

3200 

0 

32 

0 

26  4 

6 

2  0 

8200 

2 

10 

1  32 

2 

0  16 

Of 

3300 

0 

33 

0 

27  3 

6 

3  30 

8300 

2 

11 

1  33 

1 

0  16 

2 

3400 

0 

34 

0 

28  2 

6 

4  60 

8400 

2 

12 

1  34 

0 

0  16 

H 

3500 

0 

35 

0 

29  1 

6 

6  10 

8500 

2 

13 

1  34 

5 

0  16 

5 

3600 

0 

0 

30  0 

7 

0  40 

8600 

2 

14 

1  35 

4 

0  16 

6i 

3700 

1 

0 

30  5 

7 

1  70 

8700 

2 

15 

2  0 

3 

0  17 

Oi 

3800 

2 

0 

31  4 

7 

3  20 

8800 

2 

16 

2  1 

2 

0  17 

2 

3900 

3 

0 

32  3 

7 

4  50 

8900 

2 

17 

2  2 

1 

0  17 

H 

4000 

4 

0 

33  2 

7 

6  0 

9000 

2 

18 

2  3 

0 

0  17 

H 

4100 

5 

0 

34  1 

8 

0  30 

9100 

2 

19 

2  3 

5 

0  17 

6 

4200 

6 

0 

35  0 

8 

1  60 

9200 

2 

20 

2  4 

4 

1  0 

Oi 

4300 

7 

0 

35  5 

8 

3  10 

9300 

2 

21 

2  5 

3 

1  0 

2 

4400 

8 

1 

0  4 

8 

4  40 

9400 

2 

22 

2  6 

2 

1  0 

H 

4500 

9 

1  3 

8 

5  70 

9500 

2 

23 

2  7 

1 

1  0 

H 

4600 

10 

2  2 

9 

0  20 

9600 

2 

24 

2  8 

0 

1  0 

6 

4700 

11 

3  1 

9 

1  50 

9700 

2 

25 

2  8 

5 

1    1 

Oi 

4800 

12 

4  0 

9 

3  0 

9800 

2 

26 

2  9 

4 

1    1 

H 

4900 

13 

4  5 

9 

4  30 

9900 

2 

27 

2  10 

3 

1    1 

3 

1 

533 


1, 

1600  Reed  9331  Dents 
1700  2432  

■i 

54  INCHES  WIDE.   - 

)  1800  Reed  2633  Dents. 

s 

(  ijuuu  -^yia 

Picks 

aUANTITY  OF  CLOTH   I 

Picks  !    aUANTITY  OP  CLOTH 

or 

AT  THE  RATES  OP     |    WEFT 

or   1     AT  THE  RATES  OP 

WEFT 

Shix* 
of 

100  picks 

120  picks 

REQUIRED. 

fenots  ' 

Of 

100  picks 

120  picks 

REQUIRED. 

Welt 

per  inch. 

per  inch. 

Weft. 

per  inch. 

per  inch. 

Thsds 

Yds.  In. 

Yds.  la. 

Gths 

Spy.  No.  Sk. 

IThsds 

Yds.  In. 

Yds.  In.  ths 

Spy.  No.  Sk. 

10 

2  28 

2  11 

2 

1   1  4i 

511 

Ml  24 

118  2  0 

55  11  5i 

20 

5  20 

4  22 

4 

2  3  2 

52L 

144  16 

120  13  2 

56  13  3 

30 

8  12 

6  34 

0 

3  4  6i 

53C 

147  8 

122  24  4 

57  15  Oi 

40 

11  4 

9  9 

2 

4  6  4 

54U 

150  0 

125  0  0 

58  16  5 

50 

13  32 

11  20 

4 

5  8  li 

55tJ 

152  28 

127  11  2 

60  0  2i 

60 

16  24 

13  32 

0 

6  9  6 

560 

155  20 

129  22  4 

61  2  0 

70 

19  16 

16  7 

2 

7  11  3i 

570 

158  12 

131  34  0 

62  3  4i 

80 

22  8 

18  18 

4 

8  13  1 

580 

161  4 

134  9  2 

63  5  2 

90 

25  0 

20  30 

0 

9  14  5i 

590 

163  32 

136  20  4 

64  6  6i 

100 

27  28 

23  5 

2 

10  16  3 

600 

166  24 

138  32  0 

65  8  4 

110 

30  20 

25  16 

4 

12  0  Oi 

610 

169  16 

141  7  2 

66  10  li 

120 

33  12 

27  28 

0 

13  1  5 

620 

172  8 

143  18  4 

67  11  6 

130 

36  4 

30  3 

2 

14  3  2^ 

630 

175  0 

145  30  0 

68  13  3i 

140 

38  32 

32  14 

4 

15  5  0 

640 

177  28 

148  5  2 

69  15  1 

150 

41  24 

34  26 

0 

16  6  4i 

650 

180  20 

150  16  4 

70  16  5i 

160 

44  16 

37  1 

2 

17  8  2 

660 

183  12 

152  28  0 

72  0  3 

170 

47  8 

39  12 

4 

18  9  6i 

670 

186  4 

155  3  2 

73  2  Oi 

180 

50  0 

41  24 

0 

19  11  4 

680 

188  32 

157  14  4 

74  3  5 

190 

52  28 

43  35 

2 

20  13  li 

690 

191  24 

159  26  0 

75  5  2i 

200 

55  20 

46  10 

4 

21  14  6 

700 

194  16 

162  1  2 

76  7  0 

210 

58  12 

48   22 

0 

22  16  3i 

710 

197  8 

164  12  4 

77  8  4^ 

220 

61  4 

50  33 

2 

24  0  1 

720 

200  0 

166  24  0 

78  10  2 

230 

63  32 

53  8 

4 

25  1  5i 

730 

202  28 

168  35  2 

79  11  6i 

240 

66  24 

55  20 

0 

26  3  3 

740 

205  20 

171  10  4 

80  13  4 

25.0 

69  16 

57  31 

2 

27  5  Oi 

750 

208  12 

173  22  0 

81  15  li 

260 

72  8 

60  6 

4 

28  6  5 

760 

211  4 

175  33  2 

82  16  6 

270 

75  0 

62  18 

0 

29  8  2i 

770 

213  .32 

178  8  4 

84  0  3i 

280 

77  28 

64  29 

2 

30  10  0 

780 

216  24 

180  20  0 

85  2  1 

290 

80  20 

67  4 

4 

31  11  4i 

790 

219  16 

182  31  2 

86  3  5i 

300 

83  12 

69  16 

0 

32  13  2 

800 

222  8 

185  6  4 

87  5  3 

310 

86  4 

71  27 

2 

33  14  6i 

810 

225  0 

187  18  0 

88  7  Oi 

320 

88  32 

74  2 

4 

34  16  4 

820 

227  28 

189  29  2 

89  8  5 

330 

91  24 

76  14 

0 

36  0  li 

830 

230  20 

192  4  4 

90  10  2i 

340 

94  16 

78  25 

2 

37  1  6 

840 

233  12 

194  16  0 

91  12  0 

350 

97  8 

81  0 

4 

38  3  3i 

850 

236  4 

196  27  2 

92  13  4i 

360 

100  0 

83  12 

0 

39  5  1 

860 

238  32 

199  2  4 

93  15  2 

370 

102  28 

85  23 

2 

40  6  5i 

870 

241  24 

201  14  0 

94  16  6i 

380 

105  20 

87  34 

4 

41  8  3 

880 

244  16 

203  25  2 

96  0  4 

390 

108  12 

90  10 

0 

42  10  Oi 

890 

247  8 

206  0  4 

97  2  li 

400 

111  4 

92  21 

2 

43  11  5 

900 

250  0 

208  12  0 

98  3  6 

410 

113  32 

94  32 

4 

44  13  2i 

910 

252  28 

210  23  2 

99  5  3i 

420 

116  24 

97  8 

0 

45  15  0 

920 

255  20 

212  .34  4 

100  7  1 

430 

119  16 

99  19 

2 

46  16  4i 

930 

258  12 

215  10  0 

101  8  5i 

440 

122  8 

101  30 

4 

48  0  2 

940 

261  4 

217  21  2  1 

102  10  3 

450 

125  0 

104  6 

6 

49  1  6i 

950 

263  32 

219  32  4 

103  12  0^ 

460 

127  28 

106  17 

2 

50  3  4 

960 

266  24 

222  8  0 

104  13  5 

470 

130  20 

108  28 

4 

51  5  li 

970 

269  16 

224  19  2 

105  15  2i 

480 

133  12 

111  4 

0 

52  6  6 

980 

272  8 

226  30  4 

06  17  0 

490 

135  4 

113  15 

2 

53  8  3i 

990 

275  0 

229  6  0  ] 

108  0  4* 

500 

138  32 

115  26 

4 

54  10  1 

iMiU. 

277  28 

231  17  2  109  2  2"| 

534 


1200 
1300 

Reed  1810  Dents. 
1965  

I     56  INCHES  WIDE. 

\ 

1400  Reed  2122  Dents,  i 
1500  2281  j 

1     1 
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M 

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AT  THE  RATES  OF 

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or 
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AT  THE  RATES  OP 

WEFT    11 

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of 

100  picks 

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of 

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icks 

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per  iiicb. 

per  incl 

1. 

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per 

nch. 

per  inc 

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la. 

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50 

0 

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0 

0  57 

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100 

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200 

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2 

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2  68 

5200 

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300 

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6000 

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1100 

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1200 

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1300 

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1400 

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1500 

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15 

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3 

0  31 

6500 

29 

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1600 

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16 

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3 

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1700 

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17 

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3  19 

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1800 

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4  53 

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1900 

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2000 

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20 

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4 

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2100 

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1  76 

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2200 

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2700 

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2800 

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3200 

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3  71 

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i   1700  2575  \      ^^   l-NOHLb  WIDE.  ^  ,-^^^^^^   ^^^^ 

Pickb 

ftUANTITY  OF  CLOTH 

1 
Picks 

aUANTITY  OF  CLOTH 

or 
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of 

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of 

100  picks 

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100  picks    ]20  picks 

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Wefl.  per  iiich. 

per  inch. 

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1 

per  inch.    per  inch. 

Thsds. 

Yds.  In. 

Yds.  In.  6ths.  Spy.  No.  Sk. 

Thsds 

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Yds.  In. 

ths 

Spy.  No.  Sk. 

10 

2  28 

2  11   2 

1  2  2i 

510 

141  24 

118  2 

0 

57  12  6i 

20 

5  20 

4  22  4 

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520 

144  16 

120  13 

2 

58  15  1| 

30 

8  12 

6  34  0 

3  7  0| 

530 

147  8 

122  24 

4 

59  17  4i 

40 

11  4 

9  9  2 

4  9  3i 

540 

150  0 

125  0 

0 

61  2  0 

1   50 

13  32 

11  20  4 

5  11  6 

550 

152  28 

127  11 

2 

62  4  2i 

60 

16  24 

13  32  0 

6  14  li 

560 

155  20 

129  22 

4 

63  6  5^ 

70 

19  16 

16  7  2 

7  16  4 

570 

158  12 

131  34 

0 

64  9  0| 

80 

22  8 

18  18  4 

9  0  6| 

580 

161  4 

134  9 

2 

65  11  3i 

90 

25  0 

20  30  0 

10  3  2i 

590 

163  32 

136  20 

4 

66  13  6 

100 

27  23 

23  5  2 

11  5  5 

600 

166  24 

138  32 

0 

67  16  li 

110 

30  20 

25  16  4 

12  8  Oi 

610 

169  16 

141  7 

2 

69  0  4 

120 

33  12 

27  28  0 

13  10  3 

620 

172  8 

143  18 

4 

70  2  6J 

130 

36  4 

30  3  2 

14  12  5| 

630 

175  0 

145  30 

0 

71  5  2i 

140 

38  32 

32  14  4 

15  5  H 

640 

177  28 

148  5 

2 

72  7  5 

150 

41  24 

34  26  0 

16  17  4 

650 

180  20 

150  16 

4 

73  10  Oi 

160 

44  16 

37  1  2 

18  1  6i 

660 

183  12 

152  28 

0 

74  12  3 

170 

47  8 

39  12  4 

19  4  2 

670 

186  4 

155  3 

2 

75  14  5| 

180 

50  0 

41  24  0 

20  6  4i 

680 

188  32 

157  14 

4 

76  17  U 

190 

52  28 

43  35  2 

21  9  Oi 

690 

191  24 

159  26 

0 

78  1  4 

200 

55  20 

46  10  4 

22  11  3 

700 

194  16 

162  1 

2 

79  3  6i 

210 

58  12 

48  22  0 

23  13  5i 

710 

197  8 

164  12 

4 

80  6  2 

220 

61  4 

50  33  2 

24  16  1 

720 

200  0 

166  24 

0 

81  8  4i 

230 

63  32 

53  8  4 

26  0  3i 

730 

202  28 

168  35 

2 

82  11  Oi 

240 

66  24 

55  20  0 

27  2  6i 

740 

205  20 

171  10 

4 

83  13  3 

250 

69  16 

57  31  2 

28  5  1| 

750 

208  12 

173  22 

0 

84  15  5i 

260 

72  8 

60  6  4 

29  7  4i 

760 

211  4 

175  33 

2 

86  0  1 

270 

75  0 

62  18  0 

30  10  0 

770 

213  32 

178  8 

4 

87  2  3i 

280 

77  28 

64  29  2 

31  12  2i 

780 

216  24 

180  20 

0 

88  4  6i 

290 

80  20 

67  4  4 

32  14  5i 

790 

219  16 

182  31 

2 

89  7  1| 

300 

83  12 

69  16  0 

33  17  OJ 

800 

222  8 

185  6 

4 

90  9  4i 

310 

86  4 

71  27  2 

35  1  3i 

810 

225  0 

187  18 

0 

91  12  0 

320 

88  32 

74  2  4 

36  3  6 

820 

227  28 

189  29 

2 

92  14  2i 

330 

91  24 

76  14  0 

37  6  li 

830 

230  20 

192  4 

4 

93  16  5i 

340 

94  16 

78  25  2 

38  8  4 

840 

233  12 

194  16 

0 

95  1  Of 

350 

97  8 

81  0  4 

39  10  6| 

850 

236  4 

196  27 

2 

96  3  3i 

360 

100  0 

83  12  0 

40  13  2i 

860 

238  32 

199  2 

4 

97  5  6 

370 

102  28 

85  23  2 

41  15  5 

870 

241  24 

201  14 

0 

98  8  H 

380 

105  20 

87  34  4 

43  0  Oi 

880 

244  16 

203  25 

2 

99  10  4 

390 

108  12 

90  10  0 

44  2  3 

890 

247  8 

206  0 

4 

100  12  6J 

400 

111  4 

92  21  2 

; 

45  4  5| 

900 

250  0 

208  12 

0 

101  15  2i 

410 

113  32 

94  32  4 

46  7  li 

910 

252  28 

210  23 

2 

102  17  5 

420 

116  24 

97  8  0 

47  9  4 

920 

255  20 

212  34 

4 

104  2  Oi 

430 

119  16 

99  19  2 

48  11  6i 

930 

258  12 

215  10 

0  i 

105  4  3 

440 

122  8 

101  30  4 

49  14  2 

940 

261  4 

217  21 

2  : 

106  6  5| 

450, 

1 

125  0 

104  6  0 

50  16  4| 

950 

263  32 

219  32 

4 

1 

107  9  li 

460 

127  28 

106  17  2 

52  1  Oi 

960 

266  24 

222  8 

1 
0 

108  11  4 

470 ! 

130  20 

108  28  4 

53  3  2| 

970 

269  16 

224  19 

2  , 

109  13  6i 

480] 

133  12 

111  4  0 

54  5  5i 

980 

272  8 

226  30 

4 

110  16  2 

490 

136  4 

113  15  2 

55  8  1 

990 

275  0 

229  6 

0 

112  0  4i 

500 

138  32  1 

115  26  4 

56  10  3i 

iMill. 

277  28 

231  17 

2 

113  3  Oi 

536 


1200 
1300 

Reed  1880  Dents. 
2035  

I      58 

INCHES  WIDE.   ) 

1400  Reed  2195  DenU. 
1500  2355 

1 

Picks 

QUANTITY  OF 

CLOTH 

1 

Picks 

aCANTITY  OF  CLOTH 

or 

AT  THE  RATES  OF 

WEFT 

or 

Shots 

of 

AT  THE  RATES  OP 

WEPT 

Shots 
of 

100  picks 

120  pick 

s 

REftUlRED. 

100  picks 

1-20  picK 

s 

REalHRED. 

Weft. 

per  i 

ich. 

pe 

r  inct 

1. 

Weft. 

per  inch. 

per  inc 

\. 

Yds 

In. 

Yds 

In.  6ths. 

No. 

Sk.Tlid. 

Yds.  In. 

Yds.  In.  f 

)ths. 

Spy.  No 

.Sk. 

50 

0 

i 

0 

0 

n 

0 

0  59 

5000 

1   14 

1   5 

4 

0  10 

H 

100 

0 

1 

0 

0 

5 

0 

1  38 

5100 

1   15 

1   6 

3 

0  10 

5i 

200 

0 

2 

0 

1 

4 

0 

2  76 

5200 

1   16 

1   7 

2 

0  10 

6| 

300 

0 

3 

0 

2 

3 

0 

4  34 

5300 

1  17 

1  8 

1 

0  11 

H 

400 

0 

4 

0 

3 

2 

0 

5  73 

5400 

1  18 

1  9 

0 

0  11 

2i 

500 

0 

5 

0 

4 

1 

0  31 

5500 

1  19 

1  9 

5 

0  11 

H 

600 

0 

6 

0 

5 

0 

1  69 

5600 

1  20 

1  10 

4 

0  11 

51 

700 

0 

7 

0 

5 

5 

3  27 

5700 

1  21 

1  11 

3 

0  12 

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800 

0 

8 

0 

6 

4 

4  65 

5800 

1  22 

1  12 

2 

0  12 

H 

900 

0 

9 

0 

7 

3 

6  23 

5900 

1  23 

1  13 

1 

0  12 

3 

1000 

0 

10 

0 

8 

2 

2 

0  61 

6000 

1  24 

1  14 

0 

0  12 

4i 

1100 

0 

11 

0 

9 

1 

2 

2  20 

6100 

1  25 

1  14 

5 

0  12 

6 

1200 

0 

12 

0 

10 

0 

2 

3  58 

6200 

1  26 

1  15 

4 

0  13 

Oi 

1300 

0 

13 

0 

10 

5 

2 

5  16 

6300 

1  27 

1  16 

3 

0  13 

2 

1400 

0 

14 

0 

11 

4 

2 

6  54 

6400 

1  28 

1  17 

2 

0  13 

3i 

1500 

0 

15 

0 

12 

3 

3 

1  12 

6500 

1  29 

1  18 

1 

0  13 

5 

1600 

0 

16 

0 

13 

2 

3 

2  50 

6600 

1  30 

1  19 

0 

0  13 

H 

1700 

0 

17 

0 

14 

1 

3 

4  9  1 

6700 

1  31 

1  19 

5 

0  14 

1 

1800 

0 

18 

0 

15 

0 

3 

5  47 

6800 

1  32 

1  20 

4 

0  14 

2i 

1900 

0 

19 

0 

15 

5 

4 

0  5 

6900 

1  33 

1  21 

3 

0  14 

4 

2000 

0 

20 

0 

16 

4 

4 

1  43 

7000 

1  34 

1  22 

2 

0  14 

5i 

2100 

0 

21 

0 

17 

3 

4 

3  1 

7100 

1  35 

1  23 

1 

0  14 

7 

2200 

0 

22 

0 

18 

2 

4 

4  39 

7200 

2   0 

1  24 

0 

0  15 

1* 

2300 

0 

23 

0 

19 

1 

4 

5  78 

7300 

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5 

0  15 

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2400 

0 

24 

0 

20 

0 

5 

0  36 

7400 

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4 

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2500 

0 

25 

0 

20 

5 

5 

1  74 

7500 

2   3 

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3 

0  15 

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2000 

0 

26 

0 

21 

4 

5 

3  32 

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2   4 

1  27 

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0  16 

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2700 

0 

27 

0 

22 

3 

5 

4  71 

7700 

2   5 

1  23 

1 

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2800 

0 

28 

0 

23 

2 

5 

6  28 

7800 

2   6 

1  29 

0 

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3i 

2900 

0 

29 

0 

24 

1 

6 

0  66 

7900 

2   7 

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5 

0  16 

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3000 

0 

30 

0 

25 

0 

6 

2  24 

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6 

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8100 

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0 

32 

0 

26 

4 

6 

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2 

0  17 

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3300 

0 

33 

0 

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3 

6 

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8300 

2  11 

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1 

0  17 

H 

3400 

0 

34 

0 

28 

2 

7 

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8400 

2  12 

1  34 

0 

0  17 

5 

3500 

0 

35 

0 

29 

1 

7 

2  55 

8500 

2  13 

1  34 

5 

0  17 

H 

3600 

0 

0 

30 

0 

7 

4  13 

8600 

2  14 

1  35 

4 

1  0 

1 

3700 

1 

0 

30 

5 

7 

5  51 

8700 

2  15 

2  0 

3 

1  0 

2i 

3800 

2 

0 

31 

4 

8 

0  10 

8800 

2  16 

2  1 

2 

1  0 

4 

3900 

3 

0 

32 

3 

8 

1  48 

8900 

2  17 

2  2 

1 

1  0 

5i 

4000 

4 

0 

33 

2 

8 

3  6 

9000 

2  18 

2  3 

0 

1  1 

0 

4100 

5 

0 

34 

1 

8 

4  44 

9100 

2  19 

2  3 

5 

1  1 

li 

4200 

6 

0 

35 

0 

8 

6  2 

9200 

2  20 

2  4 

4 

1  1 

3 

4300 

7 

0 

35 

5 

9 

0  40 

9300 

2  21 

2  5 

3 

1  1 

4i 

4400 

8 

1 

0 

4 

9 

1  79 

9400 

2  22 

2  6 

2 

1  1 

5| 

4500 

9 

1 

3 

9 

3  37 

9500 

2  23 

2  7 

1 

1  2 

Oi 

4600 

10 

0 

2 

9 

4  75 

9600 

2  24 

2  8 

0 

1  2 

n 

4700 

11 

3 

1 

9 

6  33 

9700 

2  25 

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1  2 

3i 

4800 

12 

4 

0 

10 

0  71  I 

9800 

2  20 

2  9 

4 

1  2 

4J 

4900 

13 

4 

5 

10 

2  29 

9900 

2  27 

2  10 

3 

1  2 

6i 

537 


1600  Reed  2505  Dents.  )      .„  TATrHF^  Vifir>v       5  1800  Reed  2825  Dents. 
1700  2665  5   ^^  INCHES  WIDE,   j  ^^^^   3^35 

Picks 

aUANTITY  OP  CLOTH 

Picks 

QUANTITY  OP  CLOTH 

or 

Shots 

of 

AT  THE  RATES  OF 

WEFT 

or 

Shots 

of 

AT  THE  RATES  OP 

WEPT 

100  picks 

120  picks 

REaUIRED. 

100  picks 

120  i)ick8 

REQUIRED. 

Weft. 

per  inch. 

per  inch. 

Weft. 

per  inch. 

per  inch. 

Thsds, 

Yds.  In. 

Yds.  In.  6th8 

Spy.  No.  Sk. 

Thsds 

Yds.  In. 

Yds.  In.  ths 

Spy.  No.  Sk. 

10 

2  28 

2  11   2 

1   3  0| 

510 

141  24 

118  2  0 

59  13  7 

20 

5  20 

4  22  4 

2  6  li 

520 

144  16 

120  13  2 

60  17  Oi 

30 

8  12 

6  34  0 

3  9  2 

530 

147  8 

122  24  4 

62  2  ii 

40 

11  4 

9  9  2 

4  12  2| 

540 

150  0 

125  0  0 

63  5  2 

50 

13  32 

11  20  4 

5  15  3i 

550 

152  28 

127  11  2 

64  8  2i 

60 

16  24 

13  32  0 

7  0  4 

560 

155  20 

129  22  4 

65  11  3i 

70 

19  16 

16  7  2 

8  3  4| 

570 

158  12 

131  34  0 

66  14  4 

80 

22  8 

18  18  4 

9  6  5i 

580 

161  4 

134  9  2 

67  17  4| 

90 

25  0 

20  30  0 

10  9  6i 

590 

163  32  136  20  4 

69  2  5i 

100 

27  28 

23  5  2 

11  13  0 

600 

166  24 

138  32  0 

70  5  6 

110 

30  20 

25  16  4 

12  16  Oi 

610 

169  16 

141  7  2 

71  8  6J 

120 

33  12 

27  28  0 

14  1  H 

620 

172  8 

143  18  4 

72  12  Oi 

130 

36  4 

30  3  2 

15  4  2 

630 

175  0 

145  30  0 

73  15  1 

140 

38  32 

32  14  4 

16  7  2i 

640 

177  28 

148  5  2 

75  0  1| 

150 

41  24 

34  26  0 

17  10  3i 

650 

180  20 

150  16  4 

76  3  2i 

160 

44  16 

37  1  2 

18  13  4 

660 

183  12 

152  28  0 

77  6  3i 

170 

47  8 

39  12  4 

19  16  4i 

670 

186  4 

155  3  2 

78  9  4 

180 

50  0 

41  24  0 

21  1  5i 

680 

188  32 

157  14  4 

79  12  4i 

190 

52  28 

43  35  2 

22  4  6 

690 

191  24 

159  26  0 

80  15  5i 

200 

55  20 

46  10  4 

23  7  6i 

700 

194  16 

162  1  2 

82  0  6 

210 

58  12 

48  22  0 

24  11  Of 

710 

197  8 

164  12  4 

83  3  6i 

220 

61  4 

50  33  2 

25  14  1 

720 

200  0 

166  24  0 

84  7  Oi 

230 

63  32 

53  8  4 

26  17  IJ 

730 

202  28 

168  35  2 

85  10  1 

240 

66  24 

55  20  0 

28  2  2i 

740 

205  20 

171  10  4 

86  13  li 

250 

69  16 

57  31  2 

29  5  3 

750 

208  12 

173  22  0 

87  16  2i 

260 

72  8 

60  6  4 

30  8  3| 

760 

211  4 

175  33  2 

89  1  3 

270 

75  0 

62  18  0 

31  11  4i 

770 

213  32 

178  8  4 

90  4  3i 

280 

77  28 

64  29  2 

32  14  5i 

780 

216  24 

180  20  0 

91  7  4i 

290 

80  20 

67  4  4 

33  17  6 

790 

219  16 

182  31  2 

92  10  5 

300 

83  12 

69  16  0 

35  2  6i 

800 

222  8 

185  6  4 

93  13  5| 

310 

86  4 

71  27  2 

36  6  Oi 

810 

225  0 

187  18  0 

94  16  6i 

320 

88  32 

74  2  4 

37  9  1 

820 

227  28 

189  29  2 

96  2  Oi 

330 

91  24 

76  14  0 

38  12  li 

830 

230  20 

192  4  4 

97  5  1 

340 

94  16 

78  25  2 

39  15  2i 

840 

233  12 

194  16  0 

98  8  li 

350 

97  8 

81  0  4 

41  0  3 

850 

236  4 

196  27  2 

99  11  2i 

360 

100  0 

83  12  0 

42  3  3i 

860 

238  32 

199  2  4 

100  14  3 

370 

102  28 

85  23  2 

43  6  4i 

870 

241  24 

201  14  0 

101  17  3i 

380 

105  20 

87  34  4 

44  9  5 

880 

244  16 

203  25  2 

103  2  4i 

390 

108  12 

90  10  0 

45  12  5J 

890 

247  8 

206  0  4 

104  5  5 

400 

111  4 

92  21  2 

46  15  6i 

900 

250  0 

208  12  0 

105  8  5| 

410 

113  32 

94  32  4 

48  1  0 

910 

252  28 

210  23  2 

J06  11  6i 

420 

116  24 

97  8  0 

49  4  0| 

920 

255  20 

212  34  4 

107  15  OJ 

430 

119  16 

99  19  2 

50  7  li 

930 

258  12 

215  10  0 

109  0  H 

440 

122  8 

101  30  4 

51  10  2 

940 

261  4 

217  21  2 

110  3  2 

450 

125  .0 

104  6  0 

52  13  2| 

950 

263  32 

219  32  4 

111  6  2| 

460 

127  28 

106  17  2 

53  16  3i 

960 

266  24 

222  8  0 

112  9  3i 

470 

130  20 

108  28  4 

55  1  4i 

970 

269  16 

224  19  2 

113  12  4 

480 

133  12 

111  4  0 

56  4  5 

980 

272  8 

226  30  4 

114  15  4| 

490 

136  4 

113  15  2 

57  7  5i 

990 

275  0 

229  6  0 

116  0  5* 

500 

138  32 

115  26  4 

58  10  6i 

iMill.  277  28  1 

231  17  2 

117  3  6  1 

-i 

68 


538 


1200 
1300 

Reed  1945  Dents. 
• 2105  

I     60  INCHES  WIDE. 

\ 

1400  Reed  2270  Dents.  ! 
1500  2440 j 

Picks  j 

aUAXTirr  OF  CLOTH   1 

Picks 

aUANTITY  OP  CLOTH 

~ 

or  1 

AT  THI 

RATES  OP 

WEFT 

or 

Shou 

Of 

AT  THE  RATES  Of 

WEFT     1 

Shots T 

of  1  100  picks  1 

120  picks   1 

REQ.CIRED. 

100  picks 

120  picks 

REQUIRED. 

Weft. 

per  inch. 

per  inch 

• 

Weft. 

per  i 

QCh. 

per  inch 

. 

: 

Yds. 

In. 

Yds.  In.  6ths. 

No. 

Sk.Thd. 

Yds 

lu. 

Yds.  In.  6ihs. 

Spy.  No 

Sk. 

50! 

0 

i 

0   0 

2i 

0 

0  61  ; 

5000 

14 

1  5 

4 

0  10 

fci 

lOO' 

0 

1 

0   0 

5 

0 

1  42 

5100 

15 

1  6 

3 

0  11 

1 

200 

0 

2 

0   1 

4 

0 

3  4 

5200 

16 

1  7 

2 

0  11 

2i 

300 

0 

3 

0   2 

3 

0 

4  47 

5300 

17 

1  8 

1 

0  11 

4 

400 

0 

4 

0   3 

2 

0 

6  9 

5400 

18 

1  9 

0 

0  11 

5i 

500 

0 

5 

0   4 

1 

0  51 

5500 

19 

1  9 

5 

0  12 

0 

600 

0 

6 

0   5 

0 

2  13 

5600 

20 

1  10 

4 

0  12 

U 

700 ! 

0 

7 

0   5 

5 

3  56  : 

5700 

21 

1  11 

3 

0  12 

3 

8001 

0 

8 

0   6 

4 

5  18 

5800 

22 

1  12 

2 

0  12 

H 

900 

0 

9 

0   7 

3 

6  60 

5900 

23 

1  13 

1 

0  12 

6 

1000 

0 

10 

0   8 

2 

2 

1  22 

6000 

24 

1  14 

0 

0  13 

Oi 

1100 

0 

11 

0   9 

1 

2 

2  64 

6100 

25 

1  14 

5 

0  13 

2 

1200 

0 

12 

0  10 

0 

2 

4  27  : 

6200 

26 

1  15 

4 

0  13 

3| 

1300 

0 

13 

0  10 

5 

2 

5  69  : 

6300 

27 

1  16 

3 

0  13 

5i 

1400 

0 

14 

0  11 

4 

3 

0  31  i 

6400 

28 

1  17 

2 

0  13 

6| 

1500 

0 

15 

0  12 

3 

3 

1  73  ' 

6500 

29 

1  18 

1 

0  14 

H 

1600 

0 

16 

0  13 

2 

3 

3  35 

6600 

30 

1  19 

0 

0  14 

2| 

1700 

0 

17 

0  14 

1 

3 

4  78  ■ 

6700 

31 

1  19 

5 

0  14 

H 

1800 

0 

18 

0  15 

0 

3 

6  40 

6800 

32 

1  20 

4 

0  14 

6 

1900 

0 

19 

0  15 

5 

4 

1  2  : 

6900 

33 

1  21 

3 

0  15 

Oi 

2000 

0 

20 

0  16 

4 

4 

2  44  1 

7000 

34 

1  22 

2 

0  15 

2 

2100 

0 

21 

0  17 

3 

4 

4  7 

7100 

35 

1  23 

1 

0  15 

H 

2200 

0 

22 

0  18 

2 

4 

5  49  1 

7200 

2 

0 

1  24 

0 

0  15 

5 

2300 

0 

23 

0  19 

1 

5 

0  11  1 

7300 

2 

1 

1  24 

5 

0  15 

H 

2400 

0 

24 

0  20 

0 

5 

1  53  ] 

7400 

2 

2 

1  25 

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0  16 

1 

2500 

0 

25 

0  20 

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5 

3  16  ' 

7500 

2 

3 

1  26 

3 

0  16 

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2600 

0 

26 

0  21 

4 

5 

4  58  i 

7600 

2 

4 

1  27 

2 

0  16 

4 

2700 

0 

27 

0  22 

3 

5 

6  20 

7700 

2 

5 

1  28 

1 

0  16 

5i 

2800 

0 

28 

0  23 

2 

6 

0  62  i 

7800 

2 

6 

1  29 

0 

0  17 

0 

2900 

0 

29 

0  24 

1 

6 

2  24  : 

7900 

2 

7 

1  29 

5 

0  17 

H 

3000 

0 

30 

0  25 

0 

6 

3  67  { 

8000 

2 

8 

1  30 

4 

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3100 

0 

31 

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6 

5  29  ! 

8100 

2 

9 

1  31 

3 

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4| 

3200 

0 

32 

0  26 

4 

6 

6  71  1 

8200 

2 

10 

1  32 

2 

0  17 

6i 

3300 

0 

33 

0  27 

3 

7 

1  33  ! 

8300 

2 

11 

1  33 

1 

1  0 

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3400 

0 

34 

0  28 

2 

7 

2  76  : 

1 

8400 

2 

12 

1  34 

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1  0 

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3500 

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35 

0  29 

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4  38  ! 

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2 

13 

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1  0 

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7 

6  0 

8600 

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14 

1  35 

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H 

3700 

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5 

8 

0  42 

8700 

2 

15 

2  0 

3 

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3800 

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0  31 

4 

8 

2  4 

8800 

2 

16 

2  1 

2 

1  1 

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3900 

3 

0  32 

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8 

3  47  , 

8900 

2 

17 

2  2 

1 

1  1 

3 

4000 

4 

0  33 

2 

8 

5  9 

9000 

2 

18 

2  3 

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4100 

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0  34 

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8 

6  51 

9100 

2 

19 

2  3 

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6 

4200 

6 

0  35 

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9 

1  13 

9200 

2 

20 

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4300 

7 

0  35 

5 

9 

2  56 

9300 

2 

21 

2  5 

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4400 

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9 

4  18 

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2 

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4500 

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9 

5  60 

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4600 

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0  22 

9600 

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24 

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4700 

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25 

2  8 

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4800 

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:     1   4 

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3  27 

1  9800 

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26 

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4 

1  3 

2i 

4900 

1    _ 

i  1 

13 

— » 

i   1   4 

5  10 

4  69 

1  9900 

2 

27 

2  10 

3 

_LL 

4i 

' 

53d 


1600  Reed  2595  Dents 
1700  2750  

\      60  INCHES  WIDE,   j  S  ^".' ISo  ^"!'" 

Picks 

aUANTITY  OP  CLOTH 

Picks 

aUANTITY  OP  CLOTH 

or 

Shots 

of 

AT  THE  RATES  OP 

WEFT 

or 

Shots 

of 

AT  THE  RATES  OF 

WEFT 

100  picks 

120  picks 

RBaUlRED. 

100  picks 

120  picks 

REaUIRED. 

Weft 

per  inch. 

per  inc 

I. 

Weft. 

per  inch. 

per  inch. 

Thsds. 

Yds.  In. 

Yd.s.  In. 

5ths. 

Spy.  No.  Sk. 

Thsds. 

Yd?  In. 

Yds.  In. 

Ihs 

Spy.  No.  Sk. 

10 

2  28 

2  11 

2 

1  3  5| 

510 

141  24 

118  2 

0 

61  15  Of 

20 

5  20 

4  22 

4 

2  7  4i 

520 

144  16 

120  13 

2 

63  0  6i 

30 

8  12 

6  34 

0 

3  11  3^ 

530 

147  8 

122  24 

4 

64  4  bi 

40 

11  4 

9  9 

2 

4  15  2 

540 

150  0 

125  0 

0 

65  8  4 

50 

13  32 

11  20 

4 

6  1  1 

550 

152  28 

127  11 

2 

66  12  2| 

60 

16  24 

13  32 

0 

7  4  6| 

560 

155  20 

129  22 

4 

67  16  li 

70 

19  16 

16  7 

2 

8  8  5i 

570 

158  12 

131  34 

0 

69  2  04 

80 

22  8 

18  18 

4 

9  12  4i 

580 

161  4 

134  9 

2 

70  5  6 

90 

25  0 

20  30 

0 

10  16  3 

590 

163  32 

136  20 

4 

71  9  5 

100 

27  28 

23  5 

2 

12  2  1| 

600 

166  24 

138  32 

0 

72  13  3| 

110 

30  20 

25  16 

4 

13  6  Oi 

610 

169  16 

141  7 

2 

73  17  2i 

120 

33  12 

27  28 

0 

14  9  6i 

620 

172  8 

143  18 

4 

75  3  li 

130 

36  4 

30  3 

2 

15  13  5 

630 

175  0 

145  30 

0 

76  7  0 

140 

38  32 

32  14 

4 

16  17  4 

640 

177  28 

148  5 

2 

77  10  5| 

150 

41  24 

34  26 

0 

18  3  2| 

650 

180  20 

150  16 

4 

78  14  4i 

160 

44  16 

37  1 

2 

19  7  li 

660 

183  12 

152  28 

0 

80  0  3^ 

170 

47  8 

39  12 

4 

20  11  Oi 

670 

186  4 

155  3 

2 

81  4  2 

180 

50  0 

41  24 

0 

21  14  6 

680 

188  32 

157  14 

4 

82  8  1 

190 

52  28 

43  35 

2 

23  0  4| 

690 

191  24 

159  26 

0 

83  11  6J 

200 

55  20 

46  10 

4 

24  4  3i 

700 

194  16 

1G2  1 

2 

84  15  5i 

210 

58  12 

48  22 

0 

25  8  2i 

710 

197  8 

164  12 

4 

86  1  4i 

220 

61  4 

50  33 

2 

26  12  1 

720 

200  0 

166  24 

0 

87  5  3 

230 

63  32 

53  8 

4 

27  16  0 

730 

202  28 

168  35 

2 

88  9  1| 

240 

66  24 

55  20 

0 

29  1  5| 

740 

205  20 

171  10 

4 

89  13  Oi 

250 

69  16 

57  31 

2 

30  5  4i 

750 

208  12 

173  22 

0 

90  16  6i 

260 

72  8 

60  6 

4 

31  9  3i 

760 

211  4 

175  33 

2 

92  2  5 

270 

75  0 

62  18 

0 

32  13  2 

770 

213  32 

178  8 

4 

93  6  4 

280 

77  28 

64  29 

2 

33  17  Of 

780 

216  24 

180  20 

0 

94  10  2J 

290 

80  20 

67  4 

4 

35  2  6i 

790 

219  16 

182  31 

2 

95  14  li 

300 

83  12 

69  16 

0 

36  6  5i 

800 

222  8 

185  6 

4 

97  0  Oi 

310 

86  4 

71  27 

2 

37  10  4 

810 

225  0 

187  18 

0 

98  3  6 

320 

88  32 

74  2 

4 

38  14  3 

820 

227  28 

189  29 

2 

99  7  4| 

330 

91  24 

76  14 

0 

40  0  If 

83U 

230  20 

192  4 

4 

100  11  3i 

340 

94  16 

78  25 

2 

41  4  Oi 

840 

233  12 

194  16 

0 

101  15  2^ 

350 

97  8 

81  0 

4 

42  7  6i 

850 

236  4 

196  27 

2 

103  1  1 

360 

100  0 

83  12 

0 

43  11  5 

860 

238  32 

199  2 

4 

104  5  0 

370 

102  28 

85  23 

2 

44  15  3| 

870 

241  24 

201  14 

0 

105  8  5i 

380 

105  20 

87  34 

4 

46  1  2i 

880 

244  16 

203  25 

2 

J06  12  4| 

390 

108  12 

90  10 

0 

47  5  H 

890 

247  8 

206  0 

4 

107  16  3i 

400 

111  4 

92  21 

2 

48  9  0 

900 

250  0 

208  12 

0 

1 

109  2  2 

410 

113  32 

94  32 

4 

49  2  6 

910 

252  28 

210  23 

2 

110  6  OJ 

420 

116  24 

97  8 

0 

50  16  4| 

920 

255  20 

213  34 

4  1 

111  9  6i 

430 

119  16 

99  19 

2 

52  2  3i 

930 

258  12 

215  10 

0 

112  13  5^ 

440 

122  8 

101  30 

4 

53  6  2i 

940 

261  4 

217  21 

2 

112  17  4 

450 

125  0 

104  6 

6 

54  10  1 

950 

263  32 

219  32 

4 

115  3  3 

460 

127  28 

106  17 

2 

55  13  6| 

960 

266  24 

222  8 

0 

116  7  1| 

470 

130  20 

108  28 

4 

56  17  5i 

970 

269  16 

224  19 

2 

117  11  Oi 

480 

133  12 

111  4 

0 

58  3  ^ 

980 

272  8 

226  30 

4 

118  14  G^ 

490 

136  4 

113  15 

2 

59  7  3 

990 

275  0 

229  6 

0 

120  0  5 

<   500 

138  32 

115  26 

4 

60  11  2 

IMill. 

277  28 

231  17 

2  1 

121  4  3| 

540 

1200  Reed  2010  Dents. 
1300  2180  

I     62  INCHES  WIDE. 

\ 

1400  Reed  2345  Dents. 
1500  2520 

Picks 

aUANTII 

Y  OF  CLOTH   1 

1 

Picks 

aUANTITY  OF  CLOTH 

~ 

or 

AT  THi 

RATES  OP 

WEFT 

or 

Shots 

of 

AT  THE  RATES  01 

WEFT     ' 

Shots 
of 

100  picks 

120  pick 

s 

REdUIRED. 

100  picks 

120  picks 

RBQ,riRED. 

Weft. 

per  inch. 

per  inch 

. 

Weft. 

per  inch. 

per  ineli 

. 

Yds. 

In. 

Yds.  In.  6ths. 

No.Sk.Thd.j 

Yds 

In. 

Yds.  In.  6ths. 

eipy.No.Sk.l 

50 

0 

i 

0   0 

2i 

0 

0  63 

5000 

14 

1   5 

4 

0  11 

2 

100 

0 

1 

0   0 

5 

0 

1  46 

5100 

15 

1   6 

3 

0  11 

3i 

200 

0 

2 

0   1 

4 

0 

3  13 

5200 

16 

1   7 

2 

0  11 

5 

300 

0 

3 

0   2 

3 

0 

4  57 

5300 

17 

1  8 

1 

0  11 

6* 

400 

0 

4 

0   3 

2 

0 

6  25 

5400 

18 

1  9 

0 

0  12 

H 

500 

0 

5 

0   4 

1 

1 

0  1 

5500 

19 

1  9 

5 

0  12 

2| 

600 

0 

6 

0   5 

0 

1 

2  38 

5600 

20 

1  10 

4 

0  12 

4i 

700 

0 

7 

0   5 

5 

1 

4  4 

5700 

21 

1  11 

3 

0  12 

6 

800 

0 

8 

0   6 

4 

1 

5  50 

5800 

22 

1  12 

2 

0  13 

Oi 

900 

0 

9 

0   7 

3 

2 

0  17 

5900 

23 

1  13 

1 

0  13 

2 

1000 

0 

10 

0   8 

2 

2 

1  63 

6000 

24 

1  14 

0 

0  13 

H 

1100 

0 

11 

0   9 

1 

2 

3  29 

6100 

25 

1  14 

5 

0  13 

H 

1200 

0 

12 

0  10 

0 

2 

4  1 

6200 

26 

1  15 

4 

0  14 

0 

1300 

0 

13 

0  10 

5 

2 

6  42 

6300 

27 

1  16 

3 

0  14 

H 

1400 

0 

14 

0  11 

4 

3 

1  8 

6400 

28 

1  17 

2 

0  14 

3 

1500 

0 

15 

0  12 

3 

3 

2  54 

6500 

29 

1  18 

1 

0  14 

4i 

1600 

0 

16 

0  13 

2 

3 

4  21 

6600 

30 

1  19 

0 

0  14 

H 

1700 

0 

17 

0  14 

1 

3 

5  67 

6700 

31 

1  19 

5 

0  15 

0| 

1800 

0 

18 

0  15 

0 

4 

0  33 

6800 

32 

1  20 

4 

0  15 

2i 

1900 

0 

19 

0  15 

5 

4 

2  0 

6900 

33 

1  21 

3 

0  15 

4 

2000 

0 

20 

0  16 

4 

4 

3  46 

7000 

34 

1  22 

2 

0  15 

5i 

2100 

0 

21 

0  17 

3 

4 

5  12 

7100 

35 

1  23 

1 

0  16 

0 

2200 

0 

22 

0  18 

2 

4 

6  59 

7200 

2 

0 

1  24 

0 

0  16 

H 

2300 

0 

23 

0  19 

1 

5 

1  25 

7300 

2 

1 

1  24 

5 

0  16 

H 

2400 

0 

24 

0  20 

0 

5 

2  71 

7400 

2 

2 

1  25 

4 

0  16 

4| 

2500 

0 

25 

•  0  20 

5 

5 

4  37 

7500 

2 

3 

1  26 

3 

0  16 

6i 

2600 

0 

26 

0  21 

4 

5 

6  4 

7600 

2 

4 

1  27 

2 

0  17 

1 

2700 

0 

27 

0  22 

3 

6 

0  50 

7700 

2 

5 

1  28 

1 

0  17 

2i 

2800 

0 

28 

0  23 

2 

6 

2  16 

7800 

2 

6 

1  29 

0 

0  17 

4 

2900 

0 

29 

0  24 

1 

6 

3  63 

7900 

2 

7 

1  29 

5 

0  17 

5i 

3000 

0 

30 

0  25 

0 

6 

5  29 

8000 

2 

8 

1  30 

4 

1  0 

Oi 

3100 

0 

31 

0  25 

5 

6 

6  75 

8100 

2 

9 

1  31 

3 

1  0 

2 

3200 

0 

32 

0  26 

4 

7 

0  57 

8200 

2 

10 

1  32 

o 

1  0 

H 

3300 

0 

33 

0  27 

3 

7 

3  8 

8300 

2 

11 

1  33 

1 

1  0 

5 

3400 

0 

34 

0  28 

2 

7 

4  14 

8400 

2 

12 

1  34 

0 

1  0 

H 

3500 

0 

35 

0  29 

1 

7 

6  20 

8500 

2 

13 

1  34 

5 

1  1 

n 

3600 

0 

0  30 

0 

8 

0  67 

8600 

2 

14 

1  35 

4 

1  1 

3 

3700 

1 

0  30 

5 

8 

2  33 

8700 

2 

15 

2  0 

3 

1  1 

4i 

3800 

2 

0  31 

4 

8 

4  0 

8800 

2 

16 

2  1 

2 

1  1 

6 

3900 

3 

0  32 

3 

8 

5  46 

8900 

2 

17 

2  2 

1 

1  2 

Oi 

4000 

4 

0  33 

2 

9 

0  12 

9000 

2 

18 

2  3 

0 

1  2 

2 

4100 

5 

0  34 

1 

9 

1  58 

9100 

2 

19 

2  3 

5 

1  2 

3i 

4200 

6 

0  35 

0 

9 

3  24 

9200 

2 

20 

2  4 

4 

1  2 

5i 

4300 

7 

0  35 

5 

9 

4  71 

9300 

2 

21 

2  5 

3 

1  2 

6} 

4400 

8 

1   0 

4 

9 

6  35 

9400 

2 

22 

2  6 

2 

1  3 

H 

4500 

9 

1   1 

3 

10 

1  0 

9500 

2 

23 

2  7 

1 

1  3 

3 

4600 

10 

1   2 

2 

10 

2  50 

9600 

2 

24 

2  8 

0 

1  3 

4i 

4700 

11 

1   3 

1 

10 

4  16 

9700 

2 

25 

2  8 

5 

1  3 

6 

4800 

12 

1   4 

0 

10 

5  62 

9800 

2 

26 

2  9 

4 

1  4 

OJ 

4900 

1 

13 

1   4 

5 

11 

0  29 

9900 

2 

27 

2  10 

3 

!l  4 

2i 



541 


1600  Reed  2680  Dents 
1700  2850  

•  1   62  INCHES  WIDE.   j  l^   Reed  3020  Dents. 

Picks 

QUANTITY  OF  CLOTH 

Picks 

aUANTITY  OP  CLOTH 

or 

Shots 

AT  THE  RATES  OP 

WEPT 

or 

Shots 

of 

AT  THE  RATES  OP 

WEPT 

of 

100  picks 

120  picl 

[S 

REaUIRED. 

100  picks 

120  picks 

REaUIRED. 

Weft. 

per  inch. 

per  inch> 

Weft. 

per  inch. 

per  inch. 

Thsds 

Yds.  In. 

Yds.   In. 

6ths 

Spy.  No.  Sk. 

Thsds 

Yds.  In. 

Yds.  In.  ths 

Spy.  No.  Sk. 

10 

2  28 

2  11 

2 

1  4  4 

510 

141  24 

118  2  0 

63  16  li 

20 

5  20 

4  22 

4 

2  9  0| 

520 

144  16 

120  13  2 

65  2  5i 

30 

8  12 

6  34 

0 

3  13  4i 

530 

147  8 

122  24  4 

66  7  2 

40 

11  4 

9  9 

2 

5  0  li 

540 

150  0 

125  0  0 

67  11  6 

50 

13  32 

11  20 

4 

6  4  5i 

550 

152  28 

127  11  2 

68  16  2| 

60 

16  24 

13  32 

0 

7  9  2i 

560 

155  20 

129  22  4 

70  2  6| 

70 

19  16 

16  7 

2 

8  13  6 

570 

158  12 

131  34  0 

71  7  3i 

80 

22  8 

18  18 

4 

10  0  3 

580 

161  4 

134  9  2 

72  12  Oi 

90 

25  0 

20  30 

0 

11  4  6| 

590 

163  32 

136  20  4 

73  16  4i 

100 

27  28 

23  5 

2 

12  9  3| 

600 

166  24 

138  32  0 

75  3  H 

110 

30  20 

25  16 

4 

13  14  0^ 

610 

169  16 

141  7  2 

76  7  5 

120 

33  12 

27  28 

0 

15  0  4i 

620 

172  8 

143  18  4 

77  12  2 

130 

36  4 

30  3 

2 

16  5  li 

630 

175  0 

145  30  0 

78  16  5| 

140 

38  32 

32  14 

4 

17  9  5i 

640 

177  28 

148  5  2 

80  3  2J 

150 

41  24 

34  26 

0 

18  14  2 

650 

180  20 

150  16  4 

81  7  6i 

160 

44  16 

37  1 

2 

20  0  6 

660 

183  12 

152  28  0 

82  12  3i 

170 

47  8 

39  12 

4 

21  5  2| 

670 

186  4 

155  3  2 

83  17  Oi 

180 

50  0 

41  24 

0 

22  9  6| 

680 

188  32 

157  14  4 

85  3  4 

190 

52  28 

43  35 

9 

23  14  3i 

690 

191  24 

159  26  0 

86  8  1 

200 

55  20 

46  10 

4 

25  1  Oi 

700 

194  16 

162  1  2 

87  12  5 

210 

58  12 

48  22 

0 

26  5  4i 

710 

197  8 

164  12  4 

88  17  1^ 

220 

61  4 

50  33 

2 

27  10  1 

720 

200  0 

166  24  0 

90  3  5| 

230 

63  32 

53  8 

4 

28  14  5 

730 

202  28 

168  35  2 

91  8  2i 

240 

66  24 

55  20 

0 

30  1  2 

740 

205  20 

171  10  4 

92  12  6i 

250 

69  16 

57  31 

2 

31  5  5| 

750 

208  12 

173  22  0 

93  17  'Si 

260 

79  8 

60  6 

4 

32  10  2i 

760 

211  4 

175  33  2 

95  4  0 

270 

75  0 

62  18 

0 

33  14  6i 

770 

213  32 

178  8  4 

96  8  4 

280 

77  28 

64  29 

2 

35  1  3i 

780 

216  24 

180  20  0 

97  13  1 

290 

80  20 

67  4 

4 

36  6  Oi 

790 

219  16 

182  31  2 

98  17  4| 

1   300 

83  12 

69  16 

0 

37  10  4 

800 

222  8 

185  6  4 

100  4  li 

310 

86  4 

71  27 

2 

38  15  1 

810 

225  0 

187  18  0 

101  8  5i 

320 

88  32 

74  2 

4 

40  1  4| 

820 

227  28 

189  29  2 

102  13  2i 

330 

91  24 

76  14 

0 

41  6  1| 

830 

230  20 

192  4  4 

103  17  6i 

340 

94  16 

78  25 

2 

42  10  5i 

840 

233  12 

194  16  0 

105  4  3 

350 

97  8 

81  .0 

4 

43  15  2i 

850 

236  4 

196  27  2 

106  9  0 

360 

100  0 

83  12 

0 

45  1  6i 

860 

238  32 

199  2  4 

107  13  4 

370 

102  28 

85  23 

2 

46  6  3i 

870 

241  24 

201  14  0 

109  0  Oi 

380 

105  20 

87  34 

4 

47  11  0 

880 

244  16 

203  25  2 

110  4  4i 

390 

108  12 

90  10 

0 

48  15  4 

890 

247  8 

206  0  4 

111  9  li 

400 

111  4 

92  21 

2 

50  2  0| 

900 

250  0 

208  12  0 

112  13  5i 

410 

113  32 

94  32 

4 

51  6  4| 

910 

252  28 

210  23  2 

114  0  2i 

420 

116  24 

97  8 

0 

52  11  li 

920 

255  20 

212  34  4 

115  4  6 

430 

119  16 

99  19 

2 

53  15  5i 

930 

258  12 

21510  0 

116  9  3 

440 

122  8 

101  30 

4 

55  2  2i 

940 

261  4 

217  21  2 

117  13  6| 

450 

125  0 

104  6 

0 

56  6  6i 

950 

263  32 

219  32  4 

119  0  3i 

460 

127  28 

106  17 

2 

57  11  3 

960 

206  24 

222  8  0 

120  5  Oi 

470 

130  20 

108  28 

4 

58  16  0 

970 

269  16 

224  19  2 

21  9  4i 

480 

133  12 

111  4 

0 

60  2  2| 

980 

272  8 

226  30  4 

122  14  U 

490 

136  4 

113  15 

2 

61  7  Of 

990 

275  0 

229  6  0 

24  0  5 

500 

138  32 

115  26 

4 

62  11  Oi 

IMill. 

277  28 

231  17  2  ] 

125  5  2 

542 


1200  Reed  2075  Dents 
1300  2250  

\ 

64  INCHES  WIDE. 

\ 

1400  Reed  2425  Dents. 
1500  2600 

Picks 

aUANTITY  OP 

CLOTH 

Picks 

atJANTITY  OP  CLOTH 

or 
Shots 

AT  THE  RATES  OF 

WEFT 

or 
Shots 

AT  THE  RATES  OP 

WEPT 

of 

100  picks 

120  picks 

REQ.riRED. 

of 

100  picks 

120  picks 

REQ.t;iBED. 

Weft. 

per  i 

ucn. 

per  inc 

h. 

Weft. 

per 

inch. 

per  inch. 

Yds 

.  In. 

Yds 

.  In.  ( 

iths. 

No. 

Sk.Thd. 

Yd 

i.  In. 

Yds.  In. 

6ths. 

Spy.No.Sk. 

50 

0 

h 

0 

0 

2i 

0 

0  65 

5000 

14 

1   5 

4 

0  11  4i 

100 

0 

1 

0 

0 

5 

0 

1  50 

5100 

15 

1   6 

3 

0  11  6 

200 

0 

2 

0 

1 

4 

0 

3  21 

5200 

16 

1  7 

2 

0  12  Of 

300 

0 

3 

0 

2 

3 

0 

4  69 

5300 

17 

1  8 

1 

0  12  2i 

400 

0 

4 

0 

3 

2 

0 

6  41 

5400 

18 

1  9 

0 

0  12  4 

500 

0 

5 

0 

4 

1 

1 

1  12 

5500 

19 

1  9 

5 

0  12  5i 

600 

0 

6 

0 

5 

0 

1 

2  62 

5600 

20 

1  10 

4 

0  13  Oi 

700 

0 

7 

0 

5 

5 

1 

4  33 

5700 

21 

1  11 

3 

0  13  2 

800 

0 

8 

0 

6 

4 

1 

6  3 

5800 

22 

1  12 

2 

0  13  34! 

900 

0 

9 

0 

7 

3 

2 

0  53 

5900 

23 

1  13 

1   0  13  5"l| 

1000 

0 

10 

0 

8 

2 

2 

2  24 

6000 

24 

1  14 

0   0  13  61  1 

1100 

0 

11 

0 

9 

1 

2 

4  0 

6100 

25 

1  14 

5 

0  14  li 

1200 

0 

12 

0 

10 

0 

2 

5  44 

6200 

26 

1  15 

4 

0  14  3 

1300 

0 

13 

0 

10 

5 

3 

0  15 

6300 

27 

1  16 

3 

0  14  4| 

1400 

0 

14 

0 

11 

4 

3 

1  65 

6400 

28 

1  17 

2 

0  14  6i 

1500 

0 

15 

0 

12 

3 

3 

3  36 

6500 

29 

1  18 

1 

0  15  1 

1600 

0 

16 

0 

13 

2 

3 

5  6 

6600 

30 

1  19 

0 

0  15  2i 

1700 

0 

17 

0 

14 

1 

3 

6  56 

6700 

31 

1  19 

5 

0  15  4^ 

1800 

0 

18 

0 

15 

0 

4 

1  27 

6800 

32 

1  20 

4 

0  15  5| 

1900 

0 

19 

0 

15 

5 

4 

2  77 

6900 

33 

1  21 

3 

0  16  Oi 

2000 

0 

20 

0 

16 

4 

4 

4  47 

7000 

34 

1  22 

2 

0  16  2 

2100 

0 

21 

0 

17 

3 

4 

6  18 

7100 

35 

1  23 

1 

0  16  3|  1 

2200 

0 

22 

0 

IS 

2 

5 

0  68 

7200 

2 

0 

1  24 

0 

0  16  5i 

2300 

0 

23 

0 

19 

1 

5 

2  38 

7300 

2 

1 

1  24 

5 

0  17  0 

2400 

0 

24 

0 

20 

0 

5 

4  9 

7400 

2 

2 

1  25 

4 

0  17  li 

2500 

0 

25 

0 

20 

5 

5 

5  59 

7500 

2 

3 

1  26 

3 

0  17  3i 

2600 

0 

26 

0 

21 

4 

6 

0  30 

7600 

2 

4 

1  27 

2 

0  17  4| 

2700 

0 

27 

0 

22 

3 

6 

2  0 

7700 

2 

5 

1  28 

1 

0  17  6i 

2800 

0 

28 

0 

23 

2 

6 

3  50 

7800 

2 

6 

1  29 

0 

1  0  I 

2900 

0 

29 

0 

24 

1 

6 

5  21 

7900 

2 

7 

1  29 

5 

1  0  2J 

3000 

0 

30 

0 

25 

0 

6 

6  71 

8000 

2 

8 

1  30 

4 

1  0  4i 

3100 

0 

31 

0 

25 

5 

7 

1  41 

8100 

0 

9 

1  31 

3 

1  0  6 

3200 

0 

32 

0 

26 

4 

7 

2  28 

8200 

2 

10 

1  32 

o 

1  1  Oi 

3300 

0 

33 

0 

27 

3 

7 

4  62 

8300 

2 

11 

1  33 

1 

1  1  2i 

3400 

0 

34 

0 

28 

2 

7 

5  73 

8400 

2 

12 

.  1  34 

0 

114: 

3500 

0 

35 

0 

29 

1 

8 

1  3 

8500 

2 

13 

1  34 

5 

1  1  H 

3600 

0 

0 

30 

0 

8 

2  53 

8600 

2 

14 

1  35 

4 

1  2  0^ 

3700 

1 

0 

30 

5 

8 

4  24 

8700 

2 

15 

2  0 

3 

1  2  1| 

3800 

2 

0 

31 

4 

8 

5  74 

8800 

2 

16 

2  1 

2 

1  2  3i 

3900 

3 

0 

32 

3 

9 

0  44 

8900 

2 

17 

2  2 

1 

1  2  5 

4000 

4 

0 

33 

2 

9 

2  15 

9000 

2 

18 

2  3 

0 

1  2  6| 

4100 

5 

0 

34 

1 

9 

3  65 

9100 

2 

19 

2  3 

5 

1  3  li 

4200 

6 

0 

35 

0 

9 

5  36  i 

9200 

2 

20 

2  4 

4 

13  3 

4300 

7 

0 

35 

5 

10 

0  6 ; 

9300 

2 

21 

2  5 

3 

1  3  4i 

4400 

8 

1 

0 

4 

lO 

1  59 

9400 

2 

22 

2  6 

2 

1  3  6i 

4500 

9 

1 

3 

10 

3  26 

9500 

2 

23 

2  7 

1 

1  4  0| 

4600 

1 

10 

2 

2 

10 

4  77 

9600 

2 

24 

2  8 

0 

1  4  2i 

4700 

11 

3 

1 

10 

6  47 

9700 

2 

25 

2  8 

5 

14  4 

4800 

12 

4 

0 

U 

1  18 

9800 

2 

26 

2  9 

4 

1  4  5} 

4900 

13 

4 

5 

U 

2  68  1 

9900 

2 

27 

2  10 

3 

1  5  Oi 

543 


S  ."'!'  SS  "'""■  i   "  INCHES  WIDE,   j  IZ  ^'",  f£,  ''■:-"■ 

Picks 

QUANTITY  OP  CLOTH 

Picks 

QUANTITY  OP  CLOTH 

or 
Shots 

AT  THE  RATES  OP 

WEPT 

or 
Shots 

Of 

Weft. 

AT  THE  RATES  OP 

WEFT 

of 
Weft. 

100  picks 
per  inch 

120  picks 
per  inch. 

RCaUIRED. 

100  picks 
per  inch 

120  picks 
per  inch. 

REQOIRED. 

Thsds 

Yds.  In. 

Yds.  In.  6ths 

Spy.  No.  Sk 

Thsds 

Yds.  In. 

Yds.  In.  6ths 

Spy.  No.  Sk. 

IC 

2  28 

2  11  2 

1  5  2 

51C 

141  24 

118  2  0 

65  17  2 

2C 

5  20 

4  22  4 

2  5  4 

52C 

144  16 

120  13  2 

67  4  4 

3C 

8  12 

6  34  0 

3  15  6 

53C 

147  8 

122  24  4 

68  9  6 

4C 

11  4 

9  9  2 

5  3  1 

54C 

150  0 

125  0  0 

69  15  1 

50 

13  32 

11  20  4 

6  8  3 

550 

152  28 

127  11  2 

71  2  3 

60 

16  24 

13  32  0 

7  13  5| 

560 

155  20 

129  22  4 

72  7  5 

70 

19  16 

16  7  2 

9  0  6| 

570 

158  12 

131  34  0 

73  13  0 

80 

22  8 

18  18  4 

10  6  If 

580 

161  4 

134  9  2 

75  1  0| 

90 

25  0 

20  30  0 

11  11  3| 

590 

163  32 

136  20  4 

76  5  3| 

100 

27  28 

23  5  2 

12  16  5| 

600 

166  24 

138  32  0 

77  10  5| 

110 

30  20 

25  16  4 

14  4  Oi 

610 

169  16 

141  7  2 

78  16  0| 

120 

33  12 

27  28  0 

15  9  2i 

620 

172  8 

143  18  4 

80  3  2| 

130 

36  4 

30  3  2 

16  14  4i 

630 

175  0 

145  30  0 

81  8  4| 

1 

140 

38  32 

32  14  4 

18  1  6i 

640 

177  28 

148  5  2 

82  13  6i 

150 

41  24 

34  26  0 

19  7  li 

650 

180  20 

150  16  4 

84  1  li 

160 

44  16 

37  1  2 

20  12  3i 

660 

183  12 

152  28  0 

85  6  3i 

170 

47  8 

39  12  4 

21  17  5i 

670 

186  4 

155  3  2 

86  11  5i 

180 

50  0 

41  24  0 

23  5  Oi 

680 

188  32 

157  14  4 

87  17  Oi 

190 

52  28 

43  35  2 

24  10  2i 

690 

191  24 

159  26  0 

89  4  2i 

200 

55  20 

46  10  4 

25  15  4i 

700 

194  16 

162  1  2 

90  9  4i 

210 

58  12 

48  22  0 

27  2  6i 

710 

197  8 

164  12  4 

91  14  6i 

220 

61  4 

50  33  2 

28  8  H 

720 

200  0 

166  24  0 

93  2  H 

230 

63  32 

53  8  4 

29  13  3 

730 

202  28 

168  35  2 

94  7  3i 

240 

66  24 

55  20  0 

31  0  5 

740 

205  20 

171  10  4 

95  12  5i 

250 

69  16 

57  31  2 

32  6  0 

750 

208  12 

173  22  0 

97  0  Oi 

260 

72  8 

60  6  4 

33  II  2 

760 

211  4 

175  33  2 

98  5  2i 

270 

75  0 

62  18  0 

34  16  4 

770 

213  32 

178  8  4 

99  10  4 

280 

77  28 

64  29  2 

36  3  6 

780 

216  24 

180  20  0 

100  15  6 

290 

80  20 

67  4  4 

37  9  1 

790 

219  16 

182  31  2 

102  3  1 

300 

83  12 

69  16  0 

38  14  3 

800 

222  8 

185  6  4 

103  8  3 

310 

86  4 

71  27  2 

40  1  5 

810 

225  0 

187  18  0 

104  13  5 

320 

88  32 

74  2  4 

41  7  0 

820 

227  28 

189  29  2 

106  1  0 

330 

91  24 

76  14  0 

42  12  If 

830 

230  20 

192  4  4 

107  6  2 

340 

94  16 

78  25  2 

43  17  3i 

840 

233  12 

194  16  0 

108  11  4 

350 

97  8 

81  0  4 

45  4  5| 

850 

236  4 

196  27  2 

109  16  5| 

360 

100  0 

83  12  0 

46  10  Of 

860 

238  32 

199  2  4 

111  4  0| 

370 

102  28 

85  23  2 

47  15  2| 

870 

241  24 

201  14  0 

112  9  2| 

380 

105  20 

87  34  4 

49  2  4| 

880 

244  16 

203  25  2 

113  14  4| 

390 

108  12 

90  10  0 

50  7  6i 

890 

247  8 

206  0  4 

115  1  6J 

400 

111  4 

92  21  2 

51  13  li 

900 

250  0 

208  12  0 

116  7  1| 

410 

113  32 

94  32  4 

53  0  3i 

910 

252  28 

210  23  2 

117  12  3i 

420 

116  24 

97  8  0 

54  5  5i 

920 

255  20 

212  34  4 

118  17  5i 

430 

119  16 

99  19  2 

55  11  Ol 

930 

258  12 

215  10  0 

120  5  Oi 

440 

122  8 

101  30  4 

56  16  2i 

940 

261  4 

217  21  2  ] 

L21  10  2i 

450 

125  0 

104  6  0 

58  3  4i 

950 

263  32 

219  32  4  ] 

22  15  4i 

460 

127  28 

106  17  2 

59  8  6i 

960 

266  24 

222  8  0  ] 

24  2  6i 

470 

130  20 

108  28  4 

60  14  H 

970 

269  16 

224  19  2  ] 

25  8  li 

480 

133  12 

111  4  0 

62  1  3i 

980 

272  8 

226  30  4  1 

26  13  5i 

490  136  4 

113  15  2 

63  6  5i 

990 

275  0 

229  6  0  1 

28  0  5i 

500  138  32 

115  26  4 

64  12  0 

iMill. 

277  28 

231  17  2  1 

29  6  Oi 

544 

n 

1200 
1300 

Reed  2140  Dents. 
2318  

I      66 

[NCHES  WIDE. 

\ 

1400  Reed  2500  Dents. 
1500  2682 

Picks 

aUANTITY  OF 

CLOTH   1 

Picks 

QUANTITY  OF  CLOTH 

or 

A7 

r  THE 

RATES  OF 

\ 

WEFT    1 

or 

Shots 

of 

AT  THI 

.  RATES  01 

WEFT 

Shots  - 
of 

100  picks 

120 

picks   1 

REaCIRED.  j 

100  p 

icks 

120  picks 

RG^CIRED. 

Weft. 

per  inch. 

pel 

inch 

■ 

! 

Weft. 

per  inch.  1 

per  inch 

Yds. 

In. 

Yds. 

In.  6ths.| 

No.Sk.Thd.; 

Yds 

In. 

Yds.  In.  6ths. 

Spy.No.Sk. 

50 

0 

i 

0 

0 

2i 

0 

0  67  : 

5000 

14 

1   5 

4 

0  12  0 

100 

0 

1 

0 

0 

5 

0 

1  54  ; 

5100 

15 

1  6 

3 

0  12  If 

200 

0 

2 

0 

1 

4 

0 

3  29 

5200 

16 

1  7 

2 

0  12  3i 

300 

0 

3 

0 

2 

3 

0 

5  1 

5300 

17 

1  8 

1 

0  12  5 

400 

0 

4 

0 

3 

2 

0 

6  58 

5400 

18 

1  9 

0 

0  12  6| 

500 

0 

5 

0 

4 

1 

1 

1  32  ; 

5500 

19 

1  9 

5 

0  13  li 

600 

0 

6 

0 

5 

0 

1 

3  7 

5600 

20 

1  10 

4 

0  13  3 

700 

0 

7 

0 

5 

5 

1 

4  61  i 

5700 

21 

1  11 

3 

0  13  4| 

800 

0 

8 

0 

6 

4 

1 

6  36  ; 

5800 

22 

1  12 

2 

0  13  6i 

900 

0 

9 

0 

7 

3 

2 

1  10 

5900 

23 

1  13 

1 

0  14  H 

1000 

0 

10 

0 

8 

2 

2 

2  64 

6000 

24 

1  14 

0 

0  14  2| 

1100 

0 

11 

0 

9 

1 

2 

4  39 

6100 

25 

1  14 

5 

0  14  4i 

1200 

0 

12 

0 

10 

0 

2 

6  13  1 

6200 

26 

1  15 

4 

0  14  6i 

1300 

0 

13 

0 

10 

5 

3 

0  68  i 

6300 

27 

1  16 

3 

0  15  1 

1400 

0 

14 

0 

11 

4 

3 

2  42  \ 

6400 

28 

1  17 

2 

0  15  2i 

1500 

0 

15 

0 

12 

3 

3 

4  17  i 

6500 

•29 

1  18 

1 

0  15  4i 

1600 

0 

16 

0 

13 

2 

3 

5  71 

6600 

30 

1  19 

0 

0  15  6 

1700 

0 

17 

0 

14 

1 

4 

0  45 

6700 

31 

1  19 

5 

0  16  Oi 

1800 

0 

18 

0 

15 

0 

4 

2  20 

6800 

32 

1  20 

4 

0  16  2i 

1900 

0 

19 

0 

15 

5 

4 

3  74 

6900 

33 

1  21 

3 

0  16  4 

2000 

0 

20 

0 

16 

4 

4 

5  49  1 

7000 

34 

1  22 

2 

0  16  5i  ■ 

2100 

0 

21 

0 

17 

3 

5 

0  23  ; 

7100 

35 

1  23 

1 

0  17  Oi 

2200 

0 

22 

0 

18 

2 

5 

1  78  1 

7200 

2 

0 

1  24 

0 

0  17  2 

2300 

0 

23 

0 

19 

1 

5 

3  52  i 

7300 

2 

1 

1  24 

5 

0  17  3i 

2400 

0 

24 

0 

20 

0 

5 

5  27  ! 

7400 

2 

2 

1  25 

4 

0  17  5i 

2500 

0 

25 

0 

20 

5 

6 

0  1 

7500 

2 

3 

1  26 

3 

1  0  0 

2600 

0 

26 

0 

21 

4 

6 

1  50 

7600 

2 

4 

1  27 

2 

1  0  1| 

2700 

0 

27 

0 

22 

3 

6 

3  30 

7700 

2 

5 

1  28 

1 

1  0  3i 

2800 

0 

28 

0 

23 

2 

6 

5  4 

7800 

2 

6 

1  29 

0 

1  0  5 

2900 

0 

29 

0 

24 

1 

6 

6  59 

7900 

2 

7 

1  29 

5 

1  0  6i 

3000 

0 

30 

0 

25 

0 

7 

1  33 

8000 

2 

8 

1  30 

4 

1  1  Oi 

3100 

0 

31 

0 

25 

5 

7 

3  8 

8100 

2 

9 

1  31 

3 

1  1  3 

3200 

0 

32 

0 

26 

4 

7 

3  78 

8200 

2 

10 

1  32 

2 

1  1  4J 

3300 

0 

33 

0 

27 

3 

7 

6  36 

8300 

2 

11 

1  33 

1 

1  1  6i 

3400 

0 

34 

0 

28 

2 

8 

0  51 

8400 

2 

12 

1  34 

0 

1  2  H 

3500 

0 

35 

0 

29 

1 

8 

2  66 

8500 

2 

13 

1  34 

5 

1  2  2i 

3600 

0 

0 

30 

0 

8 

4  40 

8600 

2 

14 

1  35 

4 

1  2  4J 

3700 

1 

0 

30 

5 

8 

6  14 

8700 

2 

15 

2  0 

3 

1  2  6i 

3800 

2 

0 

31 

4 

9 

0  69 

8800 

2 

16 

2  1 

2 

1  3  1 

3900 

3 

0 

32 

3 

9 

2  43 

8900 

2 

17 

2  2 

1 

1  3  2i 

4000 

4 

0 

33 

2 

9 

4  18 

9000 

2 

18 

2  3 

0 

1  3  4i 

4100 

5 

0 

34 

1 

9 

5  72 

9100 

2 

19 

2  3 

5 

1  3  6 

4200 

6 

0 

35 

0 

10 

0  46 

9200 

2 

20 

2  4 

4 

1  4  Oi 

4300 

7 

0 

35 

5 

10 

3  21 

9300 

2 

21 

2  5 

3 

1  4  2i 

4400 

8 

1 

0 

4 

10 

4  75 

9400 

2 

22 

2  6 

2 

1  4  4 

4500 

9 

1 

3 

10 

6  49 

9500 

2 

23 

2  7 

1 

1  4  5i 

4600 

10 

2 

2 

11 

0  25 

9600 

2 

24 

2  8 

0 

1  5  Oi 

4700 

11 

3 

1 

11 

1  79 

9700 

2 

25 

2  8 

5 

1  5  2 

4800 

1 

12 

4 

0 

11 

3  53 

9800 

2 

26 

2  9 

4 

1  5  3| 

4900 

1 

13 

4 

5 

11 

5  2S 

9900 

2 

27 

2  10 

3 

1  5  5i 

545 


1600  Reed  2852  Dents 
1700  3034  

•  I      fifi  TTvrPHT?«  wrnp'  S  1800  Reed  3214  Dents. 
\      ^^   INCHES  WIDE,   j  2(,QQ  33gg 

Picks 

QUANTITY  OP  CLOTH 

Picks 

aUANTITY  OP  CLOTH 

or 
Shots 

AT  THE  RATES  OF 

WEFT 

or 

Shots 

of 

AT  THE  RATES  OP 

WEFT 

of 

100  picks 

120  picks 

REQ.niRED. 

100  picks 

120  picks 

REQUIRED. 

Weft. 

per  inch. 

per  inch. 

Weft. 

per  inch. 

per  inch. 

Thads. 

Yds.  In. 

Yds.  In. 

6ths 

Spy.  No.Rk. 

Thsds 

Yds.  In. 

Yds.  In. 

fiths 

Spy.  No.  Sk. 

10 

2  28 

2  11 

2 

1  6  0 

510 

141  24 

118  2 

0 

68  0  2| 

20 

5  20 

4  22 

4 

2  12  0 

520 

144  16 

120  13 

2 

69  6  2| 

30 

8  12 

6  34 

0 

4  0  0 

530 

147  8 

122  24 

4 

70  12  3 

40 

11  4 

9  9 

2 

5  6  Oi 

540 

150  0 

125  0 

0 

72  0  3 

50 

13  32 

11  20 

4 

6  12  Oi 

550 

152  28 

127  11 

2 

73  6  3 

60 

16  24 

13  32 

0 

8  0  Oi 

560 

155  20 

129  22 

4 

74  12  3 

70 

19  16 

16  7 

2 

9  6  Oi 

570 

158  12 

131  34 

0 

76  0  3i 

80 

22  8 

18  18 

4 

10  12  Oi 

580 

161  4 

134  9 

2 

77  6  3i 

90 

25  0 

20  30 

0 

12  0  Oi 

590 

163  32 

136  20 

4 

78  12  3i 

100 

27  28 

23  5 

2 

13  6  Oi 

600 

166  24 

138  32 

0 

80  0  3i 

110 

30  20 

25  16 

4 

14  12  Oi 

610 

169  16 

141  7 

2 

81  6  3i 

120 

33  12 

27  28 

0 

16  0  0| 

620 

172  8 

143  18 

4 

82  12  3i 

130 

36  4 

30  3 

2 

17  6  0| 

630 

175  0 

145  30 

0 

84  0  3i 

140 

38  32 

32  14 

4 

18  12  Of 

640 

177  28 

148  5 

2 

85  6  3i 

150 

41  24 

34  26 

0 

20  0  0| 

650 

180  20 

150  16 

4 

86  12  3i 

160 

44  16 

37  1 

2 

21  6  1 

660 

183  12 

]52  28 

0 

88  0  3i 

170 

47  8 

39  12 

4 

22  12  1 

670 

186  4 

155  3 

2 

89  6  3i 

180 

50  0 

41  24 

0 

24  0  1 

680 

188  32 

157  14 

4 

90  12  3| 

190 

52  28 

43  35 

2 

25  6  1 

690 

191  24 

159  26 

0 

92  0  3| 

200 

55  20 

46  10 

4 

26  12  1 

700 

194  16 

162  1 

2 

93  6  3| 

210 

58  12 

48  22 

0 

28  0  H 

710 

197  8 

164  12 

4 

94  12  4 

220 

61  4 

50  33 

2 

29  6  H 

720 

200  0 

166  24 

0 

96  0  4 

230 

63  32 

53  8 

4 

30  12  H 

730 

202  28 

168  35 

2 

97  6  4 

240 

66  24 

55  20 

0 

32  0  li 

740 

205  20 

171  10 

4 

98  12  4 

250 

69  16 

57  31 

2 

33  6  H 

750 

208  12 

173  22 

0 

100  0  4i 

260 

72  8 

60  6 

4 

34  12  li 

760 

211  4 

175  33 

2 

101  6  4i 

270 

75  0 

62  18 

0 

36  0  li 

770 

213  32 

178  8 

4 

102  12  4i 

280 

77  28 

64  29 

2 

37  6  li 

780 

216  24 

180  20 

0 

104  0  4i 

290 

80  20 

67  4 

4 

38  12  li 

790 

219  16 

182  31 

2 

105  6  4i 

300 

83  12 

69  16 

0 

40  0  1| 

800 

222  8 

185  6 

4 

106  12  4i 

310 

86  4 

71  27 

2 

41  6  If 

810 

225  0 

187  18 

0 

108  0  4i 

320 

88  32 

74  2 

4 

42  12  1| 

820 

227  28 

189  29 

2 

109  6  4i 

330 

91  24 

76  14 

0 

44  0  1| 

830 

230  20 

192  4 

4 

110  12  4i 

340 

94  16 

78  25 

2 

45  6  2 

840 

233  12 

194  16 

0 

112  0  4i 

350 

97  8 

81  0 

4 

46  12  2 

850 

236  4 

196  27 

2 

113  6  4| 

360 

100  0 

83  12 

0 

48  0  2 

860 

238  32 

199  2 

4 

114  12  4| 

370 

102  28 

85  23 

2 

49  6  2 

870 

241  24 

201  14 

0 

116  0  4| 

380 

105  20 

87  34 

4 

50  12  2 

880 

244  16 

203  25 

2 

117  6  5 

390 

108  12 

90  10 

0 

52  0  2i 

890 

247  8 

206  0 

4 

118  12  5 

400 

HI  4 

92  21 

2 

53  6  2i 

900 

250  0 

208  12 

0 

120  0  5 

410 

113  32 

94  32 

4 

54  12  2i 

910 

252  28 

210  23 

2 

121  6  5 

420 

116  24 

97  8 

0 

56  0  2i 

920 

255  20 

212  34 

4 

122  12  5 

430 

119  16 

99  19 

2 

57  6  2i 

930 

258  12 

215  10 

0 

124  0  5i 

440 

122  8 

101  30 

4 

58  12  2i 

940 

261  4 

217  21 

2 

125  6  5i 

450 

125  0 

104  6 

0 

60  0  2i 

950 

263  32 

219  32 

4 

126  12  5i 

460 

127  28 

106  17 

2 

61  6  2i 

960 

266  24 

222  8 

0 

128  0  5i 

470 

130  20 

108  28 

4 

62  12  2i 

970 

269  16 

224  19 

2 

129  6  5i 

480 

133  12 

111  4 

0 

64  0  2| 

980 

272  8 

226  30 

4 

130  12  5i 

490 

136  4 

113  15 

2 

65  6  2| 

990 

275  0 

229  6 

0 

132  0  5i 

500 

138  32 

115  26 

4 

66  12  2J 

iMill. 

277  28 

231  17 

2 

133  6  oi 

,1 

69 


546 


1200  Reed  2205  Dents. 
1300  2390  

[  68  INCHES  WIDE. 

J 

1400  Reed  2575  Dents. 
1500  2765 

Picks 

aUANTIT 

Y  OP  CLOTH   1 

i 

Picks 

ftUANTlTY  OF  CLOTH 

~ 

or 

AT  THE 

RATES  OF 

WEFT 

or 

Shots 

of 

AT  THE  RATES  OF 

WEFT 

Shots  - 
of 

100  picks 

120  pick 

3 

REQ.CIKED.  1 

100  picks 

120  pick 

s 

REQ.UIRED. 

Weft. 

per  inch. 

per  inch 

1 

Weft. 

per  inch. 

per  inch 

Yds. 

In. 

Yds.  In.  6ths.| 

No. 

Sk.Thd-l 

Yds 

In. 

Yds.  In.  6ths. 

Si>y.  No 

Sk. 

50 

0 

i 

0   0 

2i 

0 

0  69 

5000 

14 

1   5 

4 

0  12 

2i 

100 

0 

1 

0   0 

5 

0 

1  58 

5100 

15 

1  6 

3 

0  12 

4i 

200 

0 

2 

0   1 

4 

0 

3  37 

5200 

16 

1  7 

2 

0  12 

6 

300 

0 

3 

0   2 

3 

0 

5  14 

5300 

17 

1  8 

1 

0  13 

0|  1 

400 

0 

4 

0   3 

2 

0 

6  74 

5400 

18 

1  9 

0 

0  13 

2i 

500 

0 

5 

0   4 

1 

1 

1  53 

5500 

19 

1  9 

5 

0  13 

4i 

600 

0 

6 

0   5 

0 

1 

3  31 

5600 

20 

1  10 

4 

0  13 

6 

700 

0 

7 

0   5 

5 

1 

5  10 

5700 

21 

1  11 

3 

0  14 

0| 

800 

0 

8 

0   6 

4 

1 

6  68 

5800 

22 

1  12 

2 

0  14 

H 

900 

0 

9 

0   7 

3 

2 

1  47 

5900 

23 

1  13 

1 

0  14 

44 

1000 

0 

10 

0   8 

2 

2 

3  25 

6000 

24 

1  14 

0 

0  14 

6 

1100 

0 

11 

0   9 

1 

2 

5  4 

6100 

25 

1  14 

5 

0  15 

0| 

1200 

0 

12 

0  10 

0 

2 

6  62  i 

6200 

26 

1  15 

4 

0  15 

24 

1300 

0 

13 

0  10 

5 

3 

1  41 

6300 

27 

1  16 

3 

0  15 

4 

1400 

0 

14 

0  11 

4 

3 

3  19 

6400 

28 

1  17 

2 

0  15 

5| 

1500 

0 

15 

0  12 

3 

3 

4  78 

6500 

29 

1  18 

1 

0  16 

H 

1600 

0 

16 

0  13 

2 

3 

6  56 

6600 

30 

1  19 

0 

0  16 

24 

1700 

0 

17 

0  14 

1 

4 

1  35 

6700 

31 

1  19 

5 

0  16 

4 

1800 

0 

18 

0  15 

0 

4 

3  13 

6800 

32 

1  20 

4 

0  16 

5| 

1900 

0 

19 

0  15 

5 

4 

4  72 

6900 

33 

1  21 

3 

0  17 

Oi 

2000 

0 

20 

0  16 

4 

4 

6  50 

7000 

34 

1  22 

2 

0  17 

24 

2100 

0 

21 

0  17 

3 

5 

1  29 

7100 

35 

1  23 

1 

0  17 

4 

2200 

0 

22 

0  18 

2 

5 

3  7 

7200 

2 

0 

1  24 

0 

0  17 

5| 

2300 

0 

23 

0  19 

1 

5 

4  66 

7300 

2 

1 

1  24 

5 

1  0 

H 

2400 

0 

24 

0  20 

0 

5 

6  44 

7400 

2 

2 

1  25 

4 

1  0 

2 

2500 

0 

25 

0  20 

5 

6 

1  23 

7500 

2 

3 

1  26 

3 

1  0 

3i 

2600 

0 

26 

0  21 

4 

6 

3  1  \ 

7600 

2 

4 

1  27 

2 

1  0 

5i 

2700 

0 

27 

0  22 

3 

6 

4  60 

7700 

2 

5 

1  28 

1 

1  1 

04 

2800 

0 

28 

0  23 

2 

6 

6  38 

7800 

2 

6 

1  29 

0 

1  1 

2 

2900 

0 

29 

0  24 

1 

7 

1  13 

7900 

2 

7 

1  29 

5 

1  1 

3i 

3000 

0 

30 

0  25 

0 

7 

2  76 

8000 

2 

8 

1  30 

4 

1  1 

H 

3100 

0 

31 

0  25 

5 

7 

4  54 

8100 

2 

9 

1  31 

3 

1  2 

04 

3200 

0 

32 

0  26 

4 

7 

5  49 

8200 

2 

10 

1  32 

2 

1  2 

2 

3300 

0 

33 

0  27 

3 

8 

0  11 

8300 

2 

11 

1  33 

1 

1  2 

H 

340U 

■   0 

34 

0  28 

2 

8 

2  30 

8400 

2 

12 

1  34 

0 

1  2 

5i 

3500 

0 

35 

0  29 

1 

8 

4  48 

8500 

2 

13 

1  34 

5 

1  3 

04 

3600 

0 

0  30 

0 

8 

6  27 

8600 

2 

14 

1  35 

4 

1  3 

2 

3700 

1 

0  30 

5 

9 

1  5 

8700 

2 

15 

2  0 

3 

1  3 

3| 

3800 

2 

0  31 

4 

9 

2  64 

8800 

2 

16 

2  1 

2 

1  3 

54 

3900 

3 

0  32 

3 

9 

4  42 

8900 

2 

17 

2  2 

1 

1  4 

0 

4000 

4 

0  33 

2 

9 

6  21 

9000 

2 

18 

2  3 

0 

1  4 

2 

4100 

5 

0  34 

1 

10 

0  79 

9100 

2 

19 

2  3 

5 

1  4 

H 

4200 

6 

0  35 

0 

10 

2  58 

9200 

2 

20 

2  4 

4 

1  4 

54 

4300 

I 

7 

0  35 

5 

10 

4  36 

9300 

2 

21 

2  5 

3 

1  5 

2 

4400 

i  1 

8 

1   0 

4 

11 

1  34 

9400 

2 

22 

2  6 

2 

1  5 

1| 

4500 

9 

1   1 

3 

11 

3  17 

9500 

2 

23 

2  7 

1 

1  5 

3i 

460( 

10 

1   2 

o 

11 

2  52 

9600 

2 

24 

2  8 

0 

1  5 

04 

4700 

11 

1   3 

1 

11 

4  30 

9700 

2 

25 

2  8 

5 

1  6 

0 

4800 

1 

12 

1   4 

0 

11 

6  8 

9800 

2 

26 

2  9 

4 

1  6 

14 

4900 

1 

13 

1   4 

5 

12 

0  67 

9900 

2 

27 

2  10 

3 

I  6 

3i| 

547 


1600  Reed  2940  Dents.  /   ^q  TMrwira  xvim?  S   1800  Reed  3310  Dents. 
1700  3125  \      ^^   INCHES  WIDE,   j  ^^^p  gg.^ 

Picks 

aUANTITY  OP  CLOTH 

Picks 

aUANTITy  OF  CLOTH 

or 
Sliots 

or 

AT  THE  RATES  OP 

WEPT 

or 

AT  THE  RATES  OP 

WEFT 

100  picks 

120  picks 

REaUIRED. 

iShota 
of 

100  picks 

120  picks 

REQ.i;iRED. 

Weft. 

per  inch. 

per  inch. 

Weft. 

per  inch. 

per  inch. 

Thsds 

Yds.  In. 

Yds.  In.  6ths 

Spy.  No.  Sk. 

Thsds 

Yds.  In. 

Yds.  In.  6ths 

Spy.  No.  Sk. 

10 

2  28 

2  11  2 

1  6  5 

51C 

141  24 

118  2  0 

70  1  3i 

20 

5  20 

4  22  4 

2  13  0 

52L 

144  16 

120  13  2 

71  8  1| 

30 

8  12 

6  34  0 

4  2  li 

53  C 

147  8 

122  24  4 

72  14  6| 

40 

11  4 

9  9  2 

5  8  6i 

540 

150  0 

125  0  0 

74  3  5 

50 

13  32 

11  20  4 

6  15  4| 

550 

152  28 

127  11  2 

75  10  3 

60 

16  24 

13  32  0 

8  4  3 

56C 

155  20 

129  22  4 

76  17  H 

70 

19  16 

16  7  2 

9  11  1 

570 

158  12 

131  34  0 

78  5  6i 

80 

22  8 

18  18  4 

10  17  6i 

580 

161  4 

134  9  2 

79  12  4i 

90 

25  0 

20  30  0 

12  6  4i 

590 

163  32 

136  20  4 

81  1  2| 

100 

27  28 

23  5  2 

13  13  2J 

600 

166  24 

138  32  0 

82  8  1 

110 

30  20 

25  16  4 

15  2  0^ 

610 

169  16 

141  7  2 

83  14  6 

120 

33  12 

27  28  0 

16  8  5| 

620 

172  8 

143  18  4 

85  3  4i 

130 

36  4 

30  3  2 

17  14  4 

630 

175  0 

145  30  0 

86  10  2i 

140 

38  32 

32  14  4 

19  4  2 

640 

177  28 

148  5  2 

87  17  Oi 

150 

41  24 

34  26  0 

20  11  Oi 

650 

180  20 

150  16  4 

89  5  5i 

160 

44  16 

37  1  2 

21  17  5i 

660 

183  12 

152  28  0 

90  12  3| 

170 

47  8 

39  12  4 

23  6  3i 

670 

186  4 

155  3  2 

92  1  2 

180 

50  0 

41  24  0 

24  13  1| 

680 

188  32 

157  14  4 

93  8  0 

190 

52  28 

43  35  2 

26  1  6| 

690 

191  24 

159  26  0 

94  14  5i 

200 

55  20 

46  10  4 

27  8  5 

700 

194  16 

162  1  2 

96  3  H 

210 

58  12 

48  22  0 

23  15  3 

710 

197  8 

164  12  4 

97  10  li 

220 

61  4 

50  33  2 

30  4  H 

720 

200  0 

166  24  0 

98   16  C| 

230 

63  32 

53  8  4 

31  10  6i 

730 

202  28 

168  35  2 

100  5  4| 

240 

66  24 

55  20  0 

32  17  4i 

740 

205  20 

171  10  4 

lOi  12  3 

250 

69  16 

57  31  2 

34  6  2| 

750 

208  12 

173  22  0 

103  1  1 

260 

72  8 

60  6  4 

35  13  Of 

760 

211  4 

175  33  2 

104  7  6i 

270 

75  0 

62  18  0 

37  1  6 

770 

213  32 

178  8  4 

105  14  4i 

280 

77  28 

64  29  2 

38  8  4 

780 

216  24 

180  20  0 

107  3  2i 

290 

80  20 

67  4  4 

39  15  2i 

790 

219  16 

182  31  2 

108  10  C| 

300 

83  12 

69  16  0 

41  4  Oi 

800 

222  8 

185  6  4 

109  16  5J 

310 

86  4 

71  27  2 

42  10  5i 

810 

225  0 

187  18  0 

111  5  4 

320 

88  32 

74  2  4 

43  17  3| 

820 

227  28 

189  29  2 

112  12  2 

330 

91  24 

76  14  0 

45  6  IJ 

830 

230  20 

192  4  4 

114  1  Oi 

340 

94  16 

78  25  2 

46  13  0 

840 

233  12 

194  16  0 

115  7  5i 

350 

97  8 

81  0  4 

48  1  5i 

850 

236  4 

190  27  2 

116  14  3i 

360 

100  0 

83  12  0 

49  8  3i 

860 

238  32 

199  2  4 

118  3  1| 

370 

102  28 

85  23  2 

50  15  1^ 

870 

241  24 

201  14  0 

119  9  6| 

380 

105  20 

87  34  4 

52  3  6i 

880 

244  16 

203  25  2 

120  16  5 

390 

108  12 

90  10  0 

53  10  4f 

890 

247  8 

206  0  4 

122  5  H 

400 

111  4 

92  21  2 

54  17  3 

900 

250  0 

208  12  0 

123  12  li 

410 

113  32 

94  32  4 

56  6  1 

910 

252  28 

210  23  2 

125  0  6i 

420 

116  24 

97  8  0 

57  12  6i 

920 

255  20 

212  34  4  ! 

126  7  4i 

430 

119  16 

99  19  2 

59  1  4i 

930 

258  12 

215  10  0  ; 

127  14  2i 

440 

122  8 

101  30  4 

60  8  2i 

940 

261  4 

217  21  2 

128  3  1 

450 

125  0 

104  6  0 

61  15  OJ 

950 

263  32 

219  32  4 

30  9  6 

460 

127  28 

106  17  2 

63  3  5| 

960 

266  24 

222  8  0  ] 

31  16  4i 

470 

130  20 

108  28  4 

64  10  4 

970 

269  16 

224  19  2  ] 

33  5  2i 

480 

133  12 

111  4  0 

65  17  2 

980 

272  8 

226  30  4  1 

34  12  di 

490 

136  4 

113  15  2 

67  6  Oi 

990 

275  0 

229  6  0  ;] 

36  0  5| 

500 

138  32 

^      — 

115  26  4 

68  12  5i  1 

iMiU. 

277  28 

231  17  2  |1 

37  7  3| 

548 


1200  Reed  2270  Dents. 
1300  2460  

70  INCHES  WIDE. 

"[ 

1400  Reed  2650  Dents. 
1500  2845 

. 

Picks 

Q.UANTIT 

Y  OP  CLOTH   1 

Picks 

QUANTITY  OP  CLOTH    | 

or 

AT  THE 

RATES  OP 

WEPT 

or 

Shots 

of 

AT  THi 

RATES  OF 

WEFT 

Shots  - 
of 

100  picks 

120  picks 

REQ.  [TIRED. 

100  p 

cks 

120  pick 

s 

REQ.UIRED. 

Wea. 

per  iiicli. 

per  inch 

J 

Weft. 

per  inch.  1 

per  inch 

Yds 

In. 

Yds.  In.  6ths.| 

No.Sk.Thd.) 

Yds 

In. 

Yds.  In.  6ths. 

Spy.No.Sk. 

50 

0 

i 

0   0 

2i 

0 

0  73 

5000 

14 

1  5 

4 

0  12  5 

100 

0 

1 

0   0 

5 

0 

1  63 

5100 

15 

1  6 

3 

0  13  0 

200 

0 

2 

0   1 

4 

0 

3  45 

5200 

16 

1  7 

2 

0  13  1| 

300 

0 

3 

0   2 

3 

0 

5  25 

5300 

17 

1  8 

1 

0  13  3i 

400 

0 

4 

0   3 

2 

1 

0  27 

5400 

18 

1  9 

0 

0  13  5i 

500 

0 

5 

0   4 

1 

1 

2  13 

5500 

19 

1  9 

5 

0  14  0 

600 

0 

6 

0   5 

0 

1 

3  56 

5600 

20 

1  10 

4 

0  14  1| 

700 

0 

7 

0   5 

5 

1 

5  38 

5700 

21 

1  11 

3 

0  14  3i 

800 

0 

8 

0   6 

4 

2 

0  31 

5800 

22 

1  12 

2 

0  14  5i 

900 

0 

9 

0   7 

3 

2 

2  13 

5900 

23 

1  13 

1 

0  15  Oi 

1000 

0 

10 

0   8 

2 

2 

3  66 

6000 

24 

1  14 

0 

0  15  2 

1100 

0 

11 

0   9 

1 

2 

5  48 

6100 

25 

1  14 

5 

0  15  3| 

1200 

0 

12 

0  10 

0 

3 

0  31 

6200 

26 

1  15 

4 

0  15  5i 

1300 

0 

13 

0  10 

5 

3 

2  14 

6300 

27 

1  16 

3 

0  16  Oi 

1400 

0 

14 

0  11 

4 

3 

3  76 

6400 

28 

1  17 

2 

0  16  2 

1500 

0 

15 

0  12 

3 

3 

5  59 

6500 

29 

1  18 

1 

0  16  3J 

1600 

0 

16 

0  13 

2 

4 

0  41 

6600 

30 

1  19 

0 

0  16  5| 

1700 

0 

17 

0  14 

1 

4 

2  24 

6700 

31 

1  19 

5 

0  17  Oi 

1800 

0 

18 

0  15 

0 

4 

4  7 

6800 

32 

1  20 

4 

0  17  2i 

1900 

0 

19 

0  15 

5 

4 

5  69 

6900 

33 

1  21 

3 

0  17  4 

2000 

0 

20 

0  16 

4 

5 

0  52 

7000 

34 

1  22 

2 

0  17  5| 

2100 

0 

21 

0  17 

3 

5 

2  34 

7100 

35 

1  23 

1 

1  0  Oi 

2200 

0 

22 

0  18 

2 

5 

4  17 

7200 

2 

0 

1  24 

0 

1  0  2i 

2300 

0 

23 

0  19 

1 

5 

6  0 

7300 

2 

1 

1  24 

5 

10  4 

2400 

0 

24 

0  20 

0 

6 

0  62 

7400 

2 

2 

1  25 

4 

1  0  6 

2500 

0 

25 

0  20 

5 

6 

2  45 

7500 

2 

3 

1  26 

3 

1  1  Of 

2600 

0 

26 

0  21 

4 

6 

4  27 

7600 

2 

4 

1  27 

2 

1  1  2i 

2700 

0 

27 

0  22 

3 

6 

6  10 

7700 

2 

5 

1  28 

1 

1  1  4i 

2800 

0 

28 

0  23 

2 

7 

0  73 

7800 

2 

6 

1  29 

0 

1  1  6 

2900 

0 

29 

0  24 

1 

7 

2  47 

7900 

2 

7 

1  29 

5 

1  2  0| 

3000 

0 

30 

0  25 

0 

7 

4  38 

8000 

2 

8 

1  30 

4 

1  2  2i 

3100 

0 

31 

0  25 

5 

7 

6  30 

8100 

2 

9 

1  31 

3 

1  2  4i 

3200 

0 

32 

0  26 

4 

8 

0  14 

8200 

2 

10 

1  32 

2 

1  2  6 

3300 

0 

33 

0  27 

3 

8 

2  66 

8300 

2 

11 

1  33 

1 

1  3  1 

3400 

0 

34 

0  28 

2 

8 

4  60 

8400 

2 

12 

1  34 

0 

1  3  2| 

3500 

0 

35 

0  29 

1 

8 

6  31 

8500 

2 

13 

1  34 

5 

1  3  4i 

3600 

0 

0  30 

0 

9 

1  13 

8600 

2 

14 

1  35 

4 

1  3  6i 

3700 

1 

0  30 

5 

9 

2  76 

8700 

2 

15 

2  0 

3 

1  4  1 

3800 

2 

0  31 

4 

9 

4  58 

8800 

2 

16 

2  1 

2 

1  4  2J 

3900 

3 

0  32 

3 

9 

6  41 

8900 

2 

17 

2  2 

1 

1  4  4i 

4000 

4 

0  33 

2 

10 

1  24 

9000 

2 

18 

2  3 

0 

1  4  6i 

4100 

5 

0  34 

1 

10 

3  6 

9100 

2 

19 

2  3 

5 

1  5  H 

4200 

6 

0  35 

0 

10 

4  69 

9200 

2 

20 

2  4 

4 

1     3  3 

4300 

7 

0  35 

5 

10 

6  51 

9300 

2 

21 

2  5 

3 

1  5  4i 

44O0 

8 

1   0 

4 

11 

1  34 

9400 

2 

22 

2  6 

2 

1  5  6i 

450C 

9 

1   1 

3 

11 

3  17 

9500 

2 

23 

2  7 

1 

1  6  U 

460C 

10 

1   2 

2 

11 

4  79 

9600 

2 

24 

2  8 

0 

1  6  3 

470C 

11 

1   3 

1 

11 

6  62 

9700 

2 

25 

2  8 

5 

1  6  5 

480C 

12 

1   4 

0 

12 

1  44 

9800 

2 

26 

2  9 

4 

1  6  6| 

490C 

13 

1   4 

5 

12 

3  27 

9900 

2 

27 

2  10 

3 

1  7  lij 

549 


1600  Reed  3025  Dents 
1700  3220  

•( 

70  INCHES  WIDE.   |  ^Jgg  ^'^^  ^410  Dents. 

Picks 

aUANTITY  OF  CLOTH 

Picks 

QUANTITY  OP  CLOTH 

or 

Shots 

AT  THE  RATES  OP 

WEFT 

or 

Shots 
of 

AT  THE  RATES  OP 

WEPT 

of 

100  picks 

120  picks 

RBaUlRBD. 

100  picks 

120  picks 

REaUIREC. 

Weft. 

per  inch. 

per  inch. 

Weft. 

per  inch. 

per  inch. 

Thsds. 

Yds.  In. 

Yds.  In. 

6ths. 

Spy.  No.Sk. 

Thsds 

Yds.  In. 

Yds.  In. 

6ths. 

Spy.  No.  Sk. 

10 

2  28 

2  11 

2 

1  7  3i 

510 

141  24 

118  2 

0 

72  2  4i 

20 

5  20 

4  22 

4 

2  14  6i 

520 

M4  16 

120  13 

2 

73  10  Oi 

30 

8  12 

6  34 

0 

4  4  21 

530 

147  8 

122  24 

4 

74  17  3 

40 

11  4 

9  9 

2 

5  11  6 

540 

150  0 

125  0 

0 

76  7  0 

50 

13  32 

11  20 

4 

7  1  2i 

550 

152  28 

127  11 

2 

77  14  3i 

60 

16  24 

13  32 

0 

8  8  5i 

560 

155  20 

129  22 

4 

79  3  6| 

70 

19  16 

16  7 

2 

9  16  1| 

570 

158  12 

131  34 

0 

80  11  2i 

80 

22  8 

18  18 

4 

11  5  5 

580 

161  4 

134  9 

2 

82  0  6i 

90 

25  0 

20  30 

0 

12  13  H 

590 

163  32 

136  20 

4 

83  8  2i 

100 

27  28 

23  5 

2 

14  2  4i 

600 

166  24 

138  32 

0 

84  15  5i 

110 

30  20 

25  16 

4 

15  10  0| 

610 

169  16 

141  7 

2 

86  5  1| 

120 

33  12 

27  28 

0 

16  17  3| 

620 

172  8 

143  18 

4 

87  12  5 

130 

36  4 

30  3 

2 

18  7  0 

630 

175  0 

145  30 

0 

89  2  1 

140 

38  32 

32  14 

4 

19  14  3i 

640 

177  28 

148  5 

2 

90  9  4i 

150 

41  24 

34  26 

0 

21  3  6i 

650 

180  20 

150  16 

4 

91  17  Oi 

160 

44  16 

37  1 

2 

22  11  2| 

660 

183  12 

152  28 

0 

93  6  3i 

170 

47  8 

39  12 

4 

24  0  6 

670 

186  4 

155  3 

2 

94  14  0 

180 

50  0 

41  24 

0 

25  8  2i 

680 

188  32 

157  14 

4 

96  3  3i 

190 

52  28 

43  35 

2 

26  15  5i 

690 

191  24 

159  26 

0 

97  11  6i 

200 

55  20 

46  10 

4 

28  5  1| 

700 

194  16 

162  1 

2 

99  0  2| 

210 

58  12 

48  22 

0 

29  12  5 

710 

197  8 

164  12 

4 

100  7  6 

220 

61  4 

50  33 

2 

31  2  H 

720 

200  0 

166  24 

0 

101  15  2i 

230 

63  32 

53  8 

4 

32  9  4i 

730 

202  28 

168  35 

2 

103  4  5i 

240 

66  24 

55  20 

0 

33  17  Of 

740 

205  20 

171  10 

4 

104  12  1| 

250 

69  16 

57  31 

2 

35  9  4 

750 

208  12 

173  22 

0 

106  1  5 

260 

72  8 

60  6 

4 

36  14  Oi 

760 

211  4 

175  33 

2 

107  9  H 

270 

75  0 

62  18 

0 

38  3  3i 

770 

213  32 

178  8 

4 

108  16  4i 

280 

77  28 

64  29 

2 

39  10  6| 

780 

216  24 

180  20 

0 

110  6  Of 

290 

80  20 

67  4 

4 

41  0  3 

790 

219  16 

182  31 

2 

111  13  4 

300 

83  12 

69  16 

0 

42  7  6i 

800 

222  8 

185  6 

4 

113  3  Oi 

310 

86  4 

71  27 

2 

43  15  2i 

810 

225  0 

187  18 

0 

114  10  3i 

320 

88  32 

74  2 

4 

45  4  5| 

820 

227  28 

189  29 

2 

J15  17  6| 

330 

91  24 

76  14 

0 

46  12  2 

830 

230  20 

192  4 

4 

117  7  2| 

340 

94  16 

78  25 

2 

48  1  5i 

840 

233  12 

194  16 

0 

118  14  6 

350 

97  8 

81  0 

4 

49  9  li 

850 

236  4 

196  27 

2 

120  4  2i 

360 

100  0 

83  12 

0 

50  16  4i 

860 

238  32 

199  2 

4 

121  11  5| 

370 

102  28 

85  23 

2 

52  6  1 

870 

241  24 

201  14 

0 

123  1  1| 

380 

105  20 

87  34 

4 

53  13  4 

880 

244  16 

203  25 

2 

124  8  5 

390 

108  12 

90  10 

0 

55  3  Oi 

890 

247  8 

206  0 

4 

125  16  li 

400 

111  4 

92  21 

2 

56  10  3| 

900 

250  0 

208  12 

0 

127  5  4i 

410 

113  32 

94  32 

4 

57  17  6| 

910 

252  28 

210  23 

2 

128  13  0| 

420 

116  24 

97  8 

0 

59  7  3 

920 

255  20 

212  34 

4 

130  2  4 

430 

119  16 

99  19 

2 

60  14  6i 

930 

258  12 

215  10 

0 

131  10  Qi 

440 

122  8 

101  30 

4 

62  4  2i 

940 

261  4 

217  21 

2 

132  17  3i 

450 

125  0 

104  6 

0 

63  11  5| 

950 

263  32 

219  32 

4 

134  6  6| 

460 

127  28 

106  17 

2 

65  1  2 

960 

266  24 

222  8 

0 

135  14  3 

470 

130  20 

108  28 

4 

66  8  5i 

970 

269  16 

224  19 

2 

137  3  6i 

480 

133  12 

111  4 

0 

67  16  li 

980 

272  8 

226  30 

4 

138  11  2i 

490 

136  4 

113  15 

2 

69  5  4| 

990 

275  0 

229  6 

0 

140  0  si 

500 

1 

138  32 

115  26 

4 

70  13  1 

iMill. 

277  28 

231  17 

2 

141  8  2 

550 


1200  Reed  2335  Dents. 
1300  2530  

I 

s 

72  INCHES  WIDE. 

1 

1400  Reed  2730  Dents. 
1500  2925 

Picks 

ftUANTITS  OF 

CLOTH 

Picks 

QUANTITY  OF  CLOTH 

or 

AT  THE  RATES  01 

WEFT 

or 
Shots 

AT  THE  RATES  OF 

WEFT 

Shots 

of 

100  picks 

130  pick 

s 

REQUIRED. 

or 

100  picks 

120  picks 

REQUIRED.  II 

Weft. 

per  i 

ich. 

per  inch. 

Weft. 

per 

nch. 

per  inch. 

Yds 

In. 

Yds 

In.  6ths. 

No. 

Sk.Thd. 

Yds 

.  In. 

Yds.  In. 

iths. 

Spy.No.Sk.il 

50 

0 

i 

0 

0 

2i 

0 

0  73 

5000 

1 

14 

1  5 

4 

0 

13  0| 

100 

0 

1 

0 

0 

5 

0 

1  67 

5100 

1 

15 

1  6 

3 

0 

13  2i 

200 

0 

2 

0 

1 

4 

0 

3  53 

5200 

1 

16 

1  7 

2 

0 

13  4i 

300 

0 

3 

0 

2 

3 

0 

5  38 

5300 

1 

17 

1  8 

1 

0 

13  6i 

400 

0 

4 

0 

3 

2 

1 

0  27 

5400 

1 

18 

1  9 

0 

0 

14  1 

500 

0 

5 

0 

4 

1 

1 

2  13 

5500 

1 

19 

1  9 

5 

0 

14  2| 

600 

0 

6 

0 

5 

0 

1 

4  0 

5600 

1 

20 

1  10 

4 

0 

14  4| 

700 

0 

7 

0 

5 

5 

1 

5  67 

5700 

1 

21 

1  11 

3 

0 

14  6i 

800 

0 

8 

0 

6 

4 

2 

0  53 

5800 

1 

22 

1  12 

2 

0 

15  li 

900 

0 

9 

0 

7 

3 

2 

2  40 

5900 

1 

23 

1  13 

1 

0 

15  3i 

1000 

0 

10 

0 

8 

2 

2 

4  27 

6000 

1 

24 

1  14 

0 

0 

15  5 

1100 

0 

11 

0 

9 

1 

2 

6  13 

6  IOC 

1 

25 

1  14 

5 

0 

16  Oi 

1200 

0 

12 

0 

10 

0 

3 

1  0 

6200 

1 

26 

1  15 

4 

0 

16  1| 

1300 

0 

13 

0 

10 

5 

3 

2  67 

6300 

1 

27 

1  16 

3 

0 

16  4i 

1400 

0 

14 

0 

11 

4 

3 

4  53 

6400 

1 

28 

1  17 

2 

0 

16  5i 

1500 

0 

15 

0 

12 

3 

3 

6  40 

6500 

1 

29 

1  18 

1 

0 

17  Oi 

1600 

0 

16 

0 

13 

2 

4 

1  27 

6600 

1 

30 

1  19 

0 

0 

17  2 

1700 

0 

17 

0 

14 

1 

4 

3  13 

6700 

1 

31 

1  19 

5 

0 

17  3| 

1800 

0 

18 

0 

15 

0 

4 

5  0 

6800 

1 

32 

1  20 

4 

0 

17  5| 

1900 

0 

19 

0 

15 

5 

4 

6  67 

6900 

1 

33 

1  21 

3 

1 

0  Oi 

2000 

0 

20 

0 

16 

4 

5 

1  53 

7000 

1 

34 

1  22 

2 

0  2i 

2100 

0 

21 

0 

17 

3 

5 

3  40 

7100 

1 

35 

1  23 

1 

0  4i 

2200 

0 

22 

0 

18 

2 

5 

5  27 

7200 

2 

0 

1  24 

0 

0  6 

2300 

0 

23 

0 

19 

1 

6 

0  13 

7300 

2 

1 

1  24 

5 

1  0| 

2400 

0 

24 

0 

20 

0 

6 

2  0 

7400 

2 

2 

1  25 

4 

1  2| 

2500 

0 

25 

0 

20 

5 

6 

3  67 

7500 

2 

3 

1  26 

3 

1  4i 

2600 

0 

26 

0 

21 

4 

6 

5  53 

7600 

2 

4 

1  27 

2 

1  6i 

2700 

0 

27 

0 

22 

3 

7 

0  40 

7700 

2 

5 

1  23 

1 

2  1 

2800 

0 

28 

0 

23 

2 

7 

2  27 

7800 

2 

6 

1  29 

0 

2  3 

2900 

0 

29 

0 

24 

1 

7 

4  1 

7900 

2 

7 

1  29 

5 

2  41 

3000 

0 

30 

0 

25 

0 

7 

6  0 

8000 

2 

8 

1  30 

4 

2  61 

3100 

0 

31 

0 

25 

5 

8 

0  67 

8100 

2 

9 

1  31 

3 

3  li 

3200 

0 

32 

0 

26 

4 

8 

1  69 

8200 

2 

10 

1  32 

2 

3  3i 

3300 

0 

33 

0 

27 

3 

8 

3  40 

8300 

2 

11 

1  33 

1 

3  5i 

3400 

0 

34 

0 

28 

2 

8 

5  67 

8400 

2 

12 

1  34 

0 

4  0 

3500 

0 

35 

0 

29 

1 

9 

1  13 

8500 

2 

13 

1  34 

5 

4  IJ 

3600 

0 

0 

30 

0 

9 

3  0 

8600 

2 

14 

1  35 

4 

4  3| 

3700 

1 

0 

30 

5 

9 

4  67 

8700 

2 

15 

2  0 

3 

4  5i 

3800 

2 

0 

31 

4 

9 

6  53 

8600 

2 

16 

2  1 

2 

5  Oi 

3900 

3 

0 

32 

3 

10 

1  40 

8900 

2 

17 

2  2 

1 

5  2i 

4000 

4 

0 

33 

2 

10 

3  27 

9000 

2 

18 

2  3 

0 

5  4 

4100 

5 

0 

34 

1 

10 

5  13 

9100 

2 

19 

2  3 

5 

5  5| 

4200 

6 

0 

35 

0 

11 

0  0 

9200 

2 

20 

2  4 

4 

6  0} 

4300 

7 

0 

35 

5 

11 

1  67 

9300 

2 

21 

2  5 

3 

6  2i 

4400 

8 

1 

0 

4 

11 

3  54 

9400 

2 

22 

2  6 

2 

6  4i 

4500 

9 

1 

3 

11 

5  41 

9500 

2 

23 

2  7 

1 

6  6 

4600 

10 

2 

2 

12 

0  27 

9600 

2 

24 

2  8 

0 

7  1 

4700 

11 

3 

1 

12 

2  13 

9700 

2 

25 

2  8 

5 

7  2| 

4800 

12 

4 

0 

12 

3  79 

9800 

2 

26 

2  9 

4 

7  4| 

■    4900 

1 

13 

4 

5 

12 

5  66  i 

9900 

2 

27 

2  10 

3 

7  6i 

551 
As  the  breadth  of  Cloth  in  the  precedmg  pages  advances  by  two  at  a  time,  and  that 
at  even  numbers  of  inches,  this  page  of  One  Inch,  is  intended  as  a  Unk  whereby 
the  chain  may  be  connected  wherever  an  odd  number  occurs. 


One  Inch 

Wide. 

Picks 

WKFT 
REQUIRED. 

Picks 

5000 
5100 
5200 
5300 
5400 

WEFT 
REQUIRED. 

Picks. 

WEFT 
REQUIRED. 

Picks. 

WEFT 
REaUIRED. 

50 
100 
200 
300 
400 

Sk. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 

Thd. 

1 

2 
4 
6 
8 

Sk. 

Thd. 
22 
24 
26 
28 
30 

Thsd9. 
10 
20 
30 
40 
50 

Spy. 

0 
0 

0 
0 
0 

No.  Sk.  Thds. 
0  2  44 

0  5   7 

1  0  51 
1  3  15 
1  5  59 

Thsds- 
510 
520 
530 
540 
550 

Spy.  No.  Sk.  Thds. 
1   0  3  69 
1   0  6  33 
1   1  1  76 
1   1  4  40 
12  0   4 

500 
600 
700 
800 
900 

0 
0 
0 
0 
0 

10 
12 
14 

16 
18 

5500 
5600 
5700 
5800 
5900 

32 
34 
36 

38 
40 

60 
70 
80 
90 
100 

0 
0 
0 
0 
0 

2  1  22 
2  3  66 

2  6  30 

3  1  73 
3  4  37 

560 
570 
580 
590 
600 

2  2  47 

2  5  11 

3  0  55 
3  3  19 
3  5  62 

1000 
1100 
1200 
1300 
1400 

0 
0 
0 
0 
0 

20 
22 
24 
26 
29 

6000 
6100 
6200 
6300 
6400 

42 

44 
46 
48 
50 

110 
120 
130 
140 
150 

0 
0 

0 
0 
0 

4  0   1 
4  2  45 

4  5   8 

5  0   2 
5  3  16 

610 
620 
630 
640 
650 

4  1  26 
4  3  70 

4  6  33 

5  1  77 
5  4  41 

1500 
1600 
1700 
1800 
1900 

0 
0 
0 
0 
0 

31 
33 
35 
37 
39 

6500 
6600 
6700 
6800 
6900 

52 
54 
56 
59 
61 

160 
170 
180 
190 
200 

0 
0 
0 
0 
0 

5  5  59 

6  1  23 
6  3  67 

6  6  30 

7  1  74 

660 
670 
680 
690 
700 

6  0   4 
6  2  48 

6  5  12 

7  0  56 
7  3  19 

2000 
2100 
2200 
2300 
2400 

0 
0 
0 
0 
0 

41 
43 
45 

47 
49 

7000 
7100 
7200 
7300 
7400 

63 
65 

67 
69 
71 

210 
220 
230 
240 
250 

0 
0 
0 
0 
0 

7  4  38 

8  0   2 
8  2  45 

8  5   9 

9  0  53 

710 
720 
730 

740 
750 

1 

7  5  63 

8  1  27 
8  3  70 

8  6  34 

9  1  78 

2500 
2600 
2700 
2800 
2900 

0 
0 
0 
0 
0 

51 
53 
55 
57 
59 

7500 
7600 
7700 
7800 
7900 

2 

73 
75 

77 
79 

1 

260 
270 
280 
290 
300 

0 
0 
0 
0 
0 

9  3  16 
9  5  60 
10  1  24 
10  3  67 
10  6  31 

760 
770 
780 
790 
800 

9  4  41 
10  0   5 
10  2  49 

10  5  13 

11  0  56 

3000 
3100 
3200 
3300 
3400 

0 
0 
0 
0 
0 

61 
63 
65 
67 
69 

8000 
8100 
8200 
8300 
8400 

2 

2 
2 
2 
2 

3 
5 

7 

9 

11 

310 

320 
330 
340 
350 

0 
0 

0  ] 
0  ] 

0  ] 

11  1  75 

11  4  39 

12  0   2 
12  2  46 
12  5  10 

810 
820 
830 
840 
850 

11  3  20 

11  5  64 

12  1  27 
12  3  71 
12  6  35 

3500 
3600 
3700 
3800 
3900 

0 
0 
0 
0 
0 

71 
73 

75 

77 
79 

8500 
8600 
8700 
8800 
8900 

2 
2 
2 
2 
2 

13 
15 
17 
19 
21 

360 
370 
380 
390 
400 

0  ] 
0  ] 
0  ] 
0  ] 
0  ] 

13  0  53 
13  3  17 

13  5  61 

14  1  24 
L4  3  68 

860 
870 
880 
890 
900 

13  1  79 

13  4  42 

14  0   6 
14  2  50 
14  5  13 

,  4000 
4100 
4200 
4300 
4400 

1 
4 
6 
8 
10 

9000 
9100 
9200 
9300 
9400 

2 
2 
2 
2 
2 

23 
25 
27 
29 
31 

410 
420 
430 
440 
450 

0  ] 
0  ] 
0  ] 
0  ] 
0  ] 

4  6  32 

5  1  76 

5  4  39 

6  0   3 
6  2  47 

910 
920 
930 
940 
950 

15  0  57 
15  3  21 

15  5  64 

16  1  28 
16  3  72 

4500 
4600 
4700 
4800 
4900 

1 

12 
14 
16 

18 
20 

9500 
9600 
9700 
9800 
9900 

2 
2 
2 
2 
2 

34 

36 
38 
40 
42 

460 
470 
480 
490 
500 

0  ] 
0  ] 
0  ] 
0  ] 

1 

6  5  10 

7  0  54 
7  3  18 
7  5  62 
0  1  25 

960 
970 
980 
990 
1  Mil. 

2 

2 

16  6  36 

17  1  79 
17  4  43 

0  0   7 
0  2  50 

Note. — As  the  foregoing  tables  are  calculated  only  for  the  pur- 
pose of  showing  the  quantity  of  flowering  weft  that  is  requisite  for 
the  different  breadths  of  webs  contained  therein,  the  manufacturer 
must  not  suppose  that  the  number  of  dents  or  splits  that  are  there 
given,  for  the  breadth  of  any  particular  reed,  are  sufiicient  for  the 
same  width  of  cloth  to  which  it  refers.  As  flowering  weft  is  gen- 
erally catched  upon  two  cords  on  the  outside  of  each  selvage  of  the 
web,  it  may  be  fairly  estimated  that  the  length  of  a  pick  or  shot  is 
equal  to  the  breadth  of  the  web  in  the  reed.  The  shawl  manufac- 
turer, therefore,  who  wishes  his  goods  to  stand  any  particular 
breadth  when  finished,  will  not  be  far  from  the  truth,  by  always 
taking  the  number  of  dents  immediately  above  that  intended  to  be 
made.  If  it  is  wished  to  make  a  shawl  in  a  1400  reed,  54  inches 
wide,  take  the  number  of  dents  that  a  1500  requires  for  the  same 
breadth  in  the  reed,  and  so  on  for  any  other  reed  or  breadth.  Only 
with  this  reservation,  that  in  damask  shawls,  where  the  weft  is  put 
in  dry,  or  any  other  of  a  similar  kind,  SO  dents  of  allowance,  in 
place  of  100  will  be  suflScient,  being  a  deduction  of  one-fifth  part 
from  what  is  given  by  the  above  rule. 


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TESTIMONIALS. 


In  order  to  lay  before  the  public  the  opinions  of  some  of  the  most 
eminent  French,  English,  and  other  manufacturers,  regarding  the 
merits  of  our  patent  power  looms,  we  subjoin  several  Testimonials, 
which  have  been  received  by  us  on  the  subject.  We  have  not  trans- 
lated the  French  documents,  preferring  to  give  them  exactly  as  re- 
ceived from  the  several  parties ;  and,  besides,  it  saves  room :  any 
person  however,  who  does  not  understand  the  language,  but  who 
may  feel  anxious  to  ascertain  what  these  documents  contain,  need 
be  at  no  loss  for  a  translator.  The  English  Testimonials  will,  per- 
haps, be  sufficient  to  satisfy  most  people,  without  any  additional 
proof. 


COPIE. 

Je  soussigne  P.  A.  Pihet,  constructeur  Mecanicien,  demeurant  a  Pans, 
avenue  Parmentier,  No.  3,  declare  que  j'ai  connu  M.  C.  G.  Gihoy  tiatif 
de  la  Grande  Bretagne  vers  le  mois  de  Decembre  1834,  et  que  j'ai  passe 
contrat  avec  le  dit  Sr.  C.  G.  Gilroy  pour  la  construction  d'un  nouveau 
metier  de  son  invention  et  pour  lequel  des  brevets  ont  ete  pris  en  France 
par  M.  Pihet  pour  cette  meme  invention,  qui  consiste  en  un  moyen  me- 
canique  par  lequel  la  machine  appellee  Jacquart  marche  par  un  moteur 
quelconque,  etqui  permet  de  supprimer  entierement  Us  moyens  a  la  mam 
employes  jusqu'd  ce  jour  pour  obtenir  les  memes  resultats.  Le  dit 
Sr.  C.  G.  Gilroy  ayant  mis  a  execution  le  dit  metier  dans  mes  ateliers, 
depuis  la  date  ci-dessus  exprimee  jusqu'a  ce  jour  a  demande  et  obtenu  des 
patentes  ou  brevets  pour  I'Angleterre,  I'Ecosse  et  I'lrlande,  ou  il  desire 
propager  sa  decouverte.  En  consequence,  je  declare  done,  dans  I'interet 
de  la  verite,  que  le  metier  de  I'invention  de  M.  C.  G.  Gilroy,  et  qu'il  a 
construit  chez  moi,  pour  faire  marcher  sans  aucun  aide  le  mecanique 
Jacquart  ainsi  nomme,  a  ete  etabli  sous  ious  les  rapports  a  man  enhere 
satisfaction^  et  qu'il  produit  des  etnffes  parfaites,  sans  etre  plus  svjet  a  se 
deranger  qu'un  simple  metier  mecanique  pour  calicot,  et  qu'ennn,  toutes 
les  etoffes  fagonnees  el  aulres  peuvent  y  etre  fabriquees  en  changeant 
seulemenl  les  cartons  et  sans  toucher  au  mecanisme.  Le  metier  marche  a 
raison  de  100  et  mfeme  1 15  coups  de  la  navette  a  la  minute,  soit  pour  faire 
une  6toffe  forte  ou  legere,  et  d'excellente  fabrication. 

70 


554 

Je  declare  egalement  que  je  considere  M.  C.  G.  Gilroy  comme  un 
homme  tres  industrieux  et  d'une  grande  perseverance  ;  qu'il  est  tres  capable 
de  mener  a  Jin  ce  qu'il  promet  au  sujet  de  ses  perfectionnemens  et  inven- 
tions concernant  les  metiers  a  tisser. 

En  foi  de  quoi  je  lui  ai  delivre  la  presente  attestation  pour  lui  servir  en 
tant  que  de  besoin. 

Fait  a  Paris  le  quatre  Mars  1838. 
Approuve  I'ecriture 

Signe — P.  Aug.  Pihet. 

Nous  soussignes,  ajrant  vu  en  pleine  activite  de  travail  dans  les  ateliers 
de  M.  Pihet,  constructeur  mecanicien  a  Paris,  le  nouveau  metier  Jacquart, 
mecanique  de  rinvention  de  M.  C.  G.  Gilroy,  metier  d'ailleurs  mentionne 
dans  Tattestation  ci-contre,  declarons  et  attestons  que  le  dit  metier  marche 
avec  toute  la  perfection  desirable  et  que,  non  seulement  il  donne  beaucoup 
plus  en  prod u it  que  les  metiers  a  la  main,  mais  que  ces  memes  produits 
sont  superieurs  en  regularite  et  en  perfection. 

Nous  declarons  en  outre  qu'une  jeune  fille  pent  aisement  gouverner 
trois  de  ces  metiers. 

Fait  a  Paris  le  5  Mars  1838. 

Signe. — DiouDONNAT, 
Constructeur  de  Mecaniques  Jacquart. 

Vu  par  Nous,  Maire  du  8«  Arrondissement  de  Paris  pour  legalisation  de 
la  signature  de  MM.  P.  A.  Pihet  ci-contre  et  Dioudonnat,  apposee  d'autre 
part. 

Paris,  le  dix  Mars  1838. 

Le  Maire  (L.  S.)     Signe. — Baytet. 

Je  soussigne  declare  avoir  vu  fonctionner  le  metier  dont  il  est  ques- 
tion dans  le  present  certificat,  mon  opinion  est  qu'il  remplit  le  but  que 
I'auteur  s'est  propose,  et  qu'il  doit  satisfaire  a  toutes  les  exigences  du  tis- 
sage  en  general. 

Signe. — Henry,  Aine. 

Nous  partageons  1' opinion   ci-dessus  enoncee  par  Monsieur  Henry. 
Signe — CoucHOT  Rey  Lebeuf  Lehr. 

Je  soussigne  declare  que  le  metier  a  tisser  dont  il  est  parle  ci-dessus  me 
parait  pouvoir  parfaitement  remplir  le  but  que  s'est  propose  son  auteur. 

Signe. — A.  Dhomme. 

Vu  par  le  Maire  du  3«  Arrondissement  de  Paris  pour  legalisation  de  la 
signature  de  MM.  Henry  aine, 

Paris,  le  13  D6cembre  1S40.  ' 

Signe. — Decan.     (L.  S.) 


555 

Vu  par  le  Maire  du  5*  Arrondissement  de  Paris  pour  legalisation  de  la 
signature  de  M.  Dioudonnat. 

Paris,  le  13  Decembre  1840. 

(L.  S.)     Signe.      Foccard. 

Je  soussigne  traducteur  assermente,  certifie  que  la  copie  qui  precede 
est  conforme  a  I'original  et  que  foi  doit  y  etre  ajoutiee  tant  en  jugement 
que  hors. 

Paris,  le  13  Decembre  1840. 

(L.  S.)     F.  Gardera. 

Vu  par  le  Maire  du  3«  Arrondissement  de  Paris  pour  legalisation  de  la 
signature  de  M.  Gardera,  traducteur  assermente. 
Paris,  le  13  Decembre  1840. 

Periort  Tuousscay.     (L.  S.) 

Je  soussigne  certifie  avec  plaisir  que  les  metiers  a  tisser  les  etoffes 
faconnee  ou  unie  pour  la  soierie  et  le  lin  que  j'ai  construit  pour 
M.  Charles  Cunningham  sous  la  direction  de  M.  C.  G  Gilroy  ont  par- 
faitement  rempli  le  but  qu'il  s'etait  propose. 

1°  Pour  I'enroulement  de  I'etoffe  de  maniere  a  ce  que  la  trame  dans  le 
commencement  de  la  piece  ne  soit  pas  plus  serree  qu'a  la  fin.  Par  ce 
moyen  I'on  met  autant  de  fil  de  trame  qu'on  desire  par  centimetre. 

2°  Pour  que  le  fil  de  trame  se  trouvant  tendu  et  dans  une  position  par- 
rallele  a  I'etoffe  evite  tons  les  bondages. 

3°  Pour  le  raecanisme  necessaire  a  faire  marcher  la  Jacquart  qui  est 
tellement  doux  qu'il  permet  de  donner  a  ces  metiers  la  vitesse  des  metiers 
a  calicots. 

4o  Pour  le  mouvement  necessaire  a  arreter  le  marche  du  metier  quand 
le  fil  de  trame  vient  a  casser ;  et  enfin  j'affirme  que  tons  les  fabricants 
que  fai  vu  venir  dans  mes  atelliers  pour  visiter  ces  metiers  ont  ete  d^ accord 
sur  les  avantages  et  la  simplicite  de  ce  systeme. 

En  foi  de  quoi  j'ai  signe  le  present  pour  rendre  hommage  a  la  verite. 
Paris  le  21  Decembre  1840. 

E.  Phillippe. 
Ing.  mecanicien  rue  du  Chateau  Landon,  No.  19,  a  Paris. 

J'ai  visite  a  plusieurs  reprises,  des  metiers  tres  bien  montes  et  parfaite- 
ment  organises,  garnir  de  leur  pi^ce,  pour  travailler  avec  la  mecanique 
Jacquart.  Ces  metiers  appartiennent  a  M.  Charles  Cunningham,  et  sont 
construits  par  M.  C.  G.  Gilroy  dans  I'etablissement  situe  No.  19,  rue 
chateau  Landon,  faubourg  St.  Martin. 

Les  avantages  que  j'ai  apprecies  sont : 

1®  L' application  de  le  mecanique  Jacquart,  mu  regulierement  et  agis- 


656 

sant  aussi  activement  par  un  moteur,  que  tel  metier  a  tisser  le  calicot,  la 
sole,  la  toile,  mu  avec  la  plus  grands  vitesse. 

2°  Le  mecanisme  pour  que  la  duite  lancee,  passe  et  se  cage  sans  bou- 
clage. 

3°  Le  mecanisme  qui  forme  de  belles  lizieres. 

4^*  Le  mecanisme  pour  etre  certain  et  assure  qui  vient  a  casser,  arrete 
immediatement  la  navette  et  la  mecanique  Jacquart. 

5°  L' enroulement  de  1' etoffe  s' executant  independamment  de  sa  reduction. 

6"  Le  mode  de  donner  a  toute  etoffe  faconnee,  ou  unie  le  degre  de 
reduction  a  volonte. 

Paris,  le  18  Decembre  1840. 

Bosqthllon. 
Fabricant  de  chales  et  etoffes  nouveaus,  No.  13,  rue  neuA-e  St.  Eustache, 

Vu  par  le  INIaire  du  3«  Arrondissement  pour  legalisation  des  signatures 
de  MM.  BosQOLLox,  Hexry,  aine,  et  Lehr. 
Paris,  ce  24  Decembre  1840. 

(L.  S.)     Decan. 

Pai  vu  et  j'ai  examine  de  pres  les  metiers  mecaniques  brevetes,  de 
M.  Charles  Cunningham  construit  par  M.  C.  G.  Gilroy.     Je  les  trouve 
parfait  tant  pour  leur  montage  que  pour  leur  produits. 
Paris,  le  18  Decembre  1840. 

DiOTJDONNAT. 

Rue  St.  Maur,  No.  12. 

J'ai  vu  marcher  les  metiers  de  M.  Gilroy  ;  ils  m'ont  paru  reunir  tous 
les  avantages  mentionnes  ci-dessus. 
Paris,  20  Decembre  1840. 

Lehr. 
12  faubourg  Poissoniere,  maison  Couchot  Rey  Lebeuf  Lehr,  passage 
des  Petites  Ecuries  No.  12. 

J'ai  vu  les  metiers ;  j'ai  examine  i'exactitude  et  I'assuret^  de  la  mancEUvre, 
les  produits  qu'en  resultent  me  paraissent  ne  rien  laisser  a  desirer. 
Paris,  le  19  D6cembre  1840 

Henry,  A  in  6. 
Fabricant,  13  rue  Poissoniere. 

Nous  soussignfe  certifions  que  nousavons  vu  fonctionner  le  metier  a  tisser 
mecanique  de  M.  C.  G.  Gilroy ;  nous  considerons  cette  invention  comme 
ingenieuse  et  pouvant  donner  d'heureux  resultats  sur  tout  pour  les  6toffes 
de  soie. 

H.  Debergue  &  Spreafico. 
Ingenieurs,  228  Gluai  de  Jemmappes,  Paris. 


557 

Vu  a  la  Mairie  de  5«  Arrondissement  pour  legalisation  de  la  signature 
Sr.  Debergue  «fe  Spreafico,  appos6e  a  dessus. 
Paris,  le23  Mars,  1841. 

Le  Maire  du  5^  Arrondissement  de  Paris. 

(L.  S.)      FOCCARD. 


Nous,  soussign^s,  certifions  que  pendant  huit  annees,  jusqu'a  ce  jour, 
nous  avons  vu  et  suivi,  les  diverses  inventions  et  perfectionments  que 
le  Sr.  Clinton  Q.  Gilroy  a  fait  dans  son  mecanisme,  pour  arriver  a  une 
amelioration  complete,  qu'il  a  maintenant  obtenue,  et  que  nous  manufactu-* 
riers  nous  avons  justement  apprecies.  Le  tems  et  les.  vielles  qu'il  y  a  con- 
sacres,  sans  enumerer  les  enormes  depenses  qu'il  a  faites ;  ont  ete  couron- 
nes  d'une  reussite  complete  pour  ce  qui  est  du  mecanisme. 

lo  La  machine  dite  Jacquard,  quoique  fonctionnant  avec  rapidite,  et 
marchant  a  110,  115,  et  meme  125  coups  de  navettes  a  la  minute,  n'a 
aucune  secousse  dans  ses  mouvemens,  elle  a  la  douceur  qu'exige  la  fabri- 
cation des  tissus  de  Soirie. 

2o  L'ingenieuse  idee  d'  arreter  le  metier  au  premier  fil  de  trame  qui  se 
rompt,  ou  a  chaque  caneUe  finie,  etait  indispensable  pour  la  perfection  de 
I'etoffe. 

3o  La  maniere  d'enrouler  I'etofFe  donne  la  facilite  de  donner,  autant 
qu  on  le  desire,  de  coups  de  navettes  par  centimetre ;  c'est  a  dire  la  re- 
duction voulue  pour  tel  genre  d'etoffe,  laquelle  que  ce  soit,  et  avec  une 
regularite  exacte,  depuis  le  commencement  de  la  chaine  jusqu'a  sa  fin. 

4o  II  restait  encore  un  obstacle,  a  vaincre,  le  Sr.  Gilroy  a  parfaitement 
su  le  surmonter  :  C'etait  d'eviter  le  rebouclage  de  la  trame,  fait  sur  le  lis- 
iere,  produit  par  le  diagonal  que  fait  le  fil  de  trame  par  le  mouvement  du 
battant.  II  fallait  pour  eviter  cela,  un  moyen  sur  ;  il  a  reussit  parfaitement, 
et  on  peut  dire  que  son  idee  est  aussi  simple  qu'ingenieuse. 

5°  II  fallait  empecher  les  cartons  de  s'echapper  du  cilindre,  ce  cas  ar- 
rivant  quelquesfois  par  la  vitesse  de  la  marche  du  metier,  et  faisait  faire 
des  defauts  a  I'etoffe,  et  occasionnait  la  perte  d'un  dessin  [les  carious)  forte 
couteux.     Ce  desagreraent  est  parfaitement  evite. 

6°  Pour  faire  executer  un  grand  dessin,  on  ne  pouvait  le  faire  sans  le 
concours  des  lisses  devant  le  corps,  ce  qui  devenait  dispendieux  par  le 
grand  entretient  qu  I'exige  une  remise,  et  augmentait  en  complication  le 
montage  des  metiers.  Par  son  precede,  il  est  parvenu  a  faire  executer  les 
dessins  de  la  plus  grande  dimension,  sans  I'emploi  des  lisses,  ce  qui  en 
simplifiant  le  metier  devient  un  grand  avantage  pour  I'ouvrier. 

7°  II  fait  marcher  tour  a  tour,  par  son  mecanisme,  plusieurs  navettes 
pour  les  dessins  a  plusieurs  couleurs,  etc. 


668 

Nous  nous  resumons  en  disant  que  le  metier  a  tisser-mecanique,  a  la  Jac- 
quard,  de  I'invenrion  du  Sr.  Clinton  G.  Giiroy,  est  celui  qui  offre  le 
plus  de  perfection  pour  la  fabrication  de  les  differentes  6toffes  de  sole  et 
autres  dans  les  articles  les  plus  delicats  par  leur  execution,  et  qu'il  a  fabri- 
que  a  Paris  en  sont  la  preuve. 

William  Webb,  26  Wood  St.,  Spitalfields,  London. 

H.   Saxford  &.  Varrel.      Avenue  Tradaine   No.    1,   2e   Arron- 

dissement 
E.  Fontaine.     87  rue  Hauteville,  Paris. 
Lehk.     12  faubourg,  Poissonniere. 
Henry,  Aine.     13  rue  Poisonniere. 
Boucher.     6  rue  des  fosses  montmartre,  Paris. 
Antjelle.     5  rue  Hauteville,  Paris. 
C.  Depuille.     No  22  rue  neuve  St.  Augustin. 
A.  SouLAS.     5  rue  Hauteville,  Paris. 
DiouDONNAT.     12  rue  St.  Maur. 
Raffard.     372  rue  St.  Denis. 
BosQuiLLON.     No.  1 3  rue  neuve  St.  Eustache. 
E.  Phillippe.      Ing.   mecanicien,  rue   Chateau   Landon,  No.   19. 

Ayant  construit  les  metiers  relates  ci-dessus. 
Eugene  Vasserot.     Ing.  mecanicien,  19  rue  Chateau  Landon. 
Cerisiaux  &-  Co.     Ing.  mecanicien. 

Robert  Mjddleton.     Engineer,  rue  Rochechouart,  Paris. 
Placdde  Caille.     94  rue  St.  Maur,  Popincourt. 
E.  N.  Robert. 
William  Sudds.     Rouen, 
J.  Frood.     Ingenieur. 

Vu  par  nous,  Maire  du  6*  Arrondissement  de  Paris,  pour  legalisation 
de  la  Signature  du  Sr.  Raftaed,  appos6e  au  has  du  present. 
Paris,  24  Mars  1841. 

(L.  S.)     Ch.  Gront)ar. 

Vu  pour  la  attestation  des  signatures  Phillippe  et  Vasserot. 
Paris,  le  23  Mars  1841. 

Le  Commissaire  de  Police  du  Q,uartier  du  faubourg  St.  Denis. 

(L.  S.)     Baifitte  Gregeart. 

Vu  par  le  Maire  du  3'  Arrondissement  pour  legalisation  des  signatures 
de  MM.  Henry,  Lehr,  Bosquillon,  Andelle  &  Soulas  et  Fontaine. 
Paris,  ce  20  Mars  1841. 

(L.  S.)    Decan. 


559 

Vu  pour  attestation  de  la  signature  de  MM.  Sanford  &,  Varrall,  ap- 
posee  ci-dessus. 

Paris,  le  22  Mars  1841. 

Le  commissaire  de  Police,  Gluartier  faubourg  Montmartre. 

(L.  S.)     Atoxir. 

Vu  a  la  Mairie  du  8«  Arrondissement  de  Paris  legalisation  de  la  signa- 
ture de  M.  DiouDONNAT,  trainee  au  milieu  de  cette  fueille. 
Le  24  Mars  1841. 

(L.  S.)     Le  Maiue.     E.  Gue. 

Je  soussigne  certifie  avoir  vu  fonctionner  la  machine  de  M.  Gilroy  a 
maniere  a  ne  laisser  rien  a  d^sirer  comme  success. 

A.  H.  Neville. 
Ing^nieur,  19  Passage  Saulnier. 

JTai  vu  marcher  le  m6tier  m^canique  Jacquart  de  M.  Gilroy,  et  en  ai 
et6  fort  satisfait  sous  tous  les  rapports. 
Essonne  (Seine-et-Oise.) 

E.  Feray. 

Vu  a  la  mairie  d'Essonne  pour  legalisation  de  la  signature  de  E.  Ferat 
appos6e  au  has  du  present. 
Essonne,  le  25  Mars  1841. 

(L.  S.) 

Je  soussigne  m'empresse  de  reconnaitre  que  le  Sr.  Gilroy  a  certainement 
obtenu  les  resultats  les  plus  parfaits  que  I'art  mecanique  puisse  jusqu'a 
ce  jour  apporter  au  tissage. 

Feldc.  Cordir. 
42  rue  Chabrol. 

J'ai  vu  fonctionner  le  metier  de  M.  Gilroy,  et  il  m'a  para  exempt  de 
reproches. 

C.  Desports. 
48  rue  Hauteville. 

Vu  pour  legalisation  des  signatures  de  MM.  Cordir  et  Desports  sus 
appos6es. 

Paris,  le  22  Mars  1841. 

Le  Commissaire  de  police  du  Gluartier  du  faubourg  Poissonniere. 

(L.  S.)    P.  Arlam. 


560 

Je  declare  avoir  vu  fonctionner  le  metier  en  question.  Le  but  que  se 
proposait  son  auteur  me  parait  parfaitement  reussir.  La  substitution  des 
eccentriques  aux  courbes  a  cosur  evite  les  chocs,  la  differences  des  rayons 
donne  en  ouvrant  les  chaines  le  temps  a,  la  navette  de  passer  un  m^canisme 
ingenieux,  tend  le  fil  engag6  d'approcher  de  I'ouvrage,  et  depense  le  bat- 
tent  de  faire  autant  de  chemin  que  I'ordinaire,  de  1' ensemble  de  les  disposi- 
tions il  en  resulte  un  tissage  rapid  et  exempt  de  defauts ;  j'atteste  avec 
plaisir  ce  dont  j'ai  ete  temoins. 

M.  Le  Baron  Seguier. 

Vu  par  nous,  Maire  du  11^  Arrondissement  de  Paris,  pour  legalisation 
de  la  signature  de  M.  le  Baron  Seguier,  apposee  au  bas  de  la  presente  at- 
testation. 

Fait  a  Paris,  le  23  Mars  1841. 

(L.  S.)       YAJLhANT. 

A.  M.  le  redacteur  en  chef  dv,  Commerce. 

Paris,  24  avril  1841. 
Monsieur, 

Ayant  lu  dernierement,  dans  un  numero  supplementaire  de  votre  jour- 
nal, sous  la  date  du  3  i  mars  dernier,  un  article  relatif  a  un  nouveau  me- 
tier Jacquard,  marchant  a  la  vapeur,  j'ai  ete  fort  surpris,  et  tout  autre  fabri- 
cant  I'eut  ete  a  ma  place,  d'y  trouver  la  description  d'une  pretendue  de- 
couverte  de  MM.  Maknazet  aine,  Deplanque  fils  et  compagnie  pour  la- 
quelle  il  est  dit  que  ces  messieurs  viennent  de  prendre  un  brevet  qui  porte 
la  date  du  4  avril  1840.  II  est  dit  dans  cet  article  qu'anterieurement  a 
cette  decouverte  "  les  Anglais  avaient  bien  applique  la  vapeux  aux  metiers 
a  tisser  les  etoffes  unies,  mais  on  n'avait  pu  encore  parvenir  a  I'appliquer 
aux  metiers  a  tisser  les  etoffes  damassees  a  dessin  ;  ce  probleme  difficile 
et  important  vient  d'etre  resolu  par  MM.  Malmazet  aine,  Deplanque  fils  et 
Ce  du  Lille  (Nord.)" 

Tout  fabricant  eclaire  en  France,  en  Angleterre,  ou  dans  tout  autre 
pays  saura  reconnaitre  1' inexactitude  de  ce  qui  precede  et  cela  pour  raisons 
suivantes : 

1°  MM.  Malmazet  aine,  Deplanque  fils  et  C^  paraissent  ignorer  en- 
iieiexneni  q}iQ  diz  brevets  ont  ete  pris  en  France  depuis  1834,  pour  la 
fabrication  des  etoffes  croisees,  satin  et  faconnees,  par  les  metiers  Jacquard, 
marchant  par  la  vapeur,  lesquelles  metiers  marchent  admirablement  bien. 
Deux  de  ces  brevets  ont  ete  pris  au  nom  de  MM.  Pihet  et  C*,  avenue 
Parmentier,  3,  a  Paris.  Les  huit  autres  ont  ete  pris  au  nom  de  M.  Charles 
Cunningham,  et  I'invention  est  de  M.  C.  G.  Gilroy,  ingenieur  et  fabricant. 
Le  brevet  de  MM.  Malmazet  aine,  Deplanque  fils  et  C^  est  compris  dans  ceux 
de  M.  C.  G.  Gilroy.  Le  moyen  surtout  employ^  par  ces  messieurs  pour  faire 
marcher  le  metier  n'est  qu'un  imitation  de  celui  de  M.  Pihet  et  de  M.  Cun- 
ningham.    Q,uant  a  ce  qui  a  rapport  aux  autres  parties  de  la  construction 


561 

du  metier,  il  n'y  a  rien  de  neuf  en  aucune  maniere ;  et  tous  les  fabricans 
sont  prevenu  par  le  present  article  que  toute  contrefaqon  de  I'invention  du 
sieur  Gilroy  sera  poursuivie  selon  la  loi. 

2°  Ce  sont  les  metiers  de  I'invention  de  M.  Gilroy,  qui,  les  premiers,  en 
Angleterre  et  en  France.,  ont  fait  marcher  les  metiers  Jacquard  par  la 
vapeur,  pour  cette  fabrication.  M.  Gilroy  a  forme  une  societe  a  Londres 
pour  exploiter  cette  invention,  avec  un  capital  de  30,000  liv.  St.,  et  il  a  paye 
a  MM.  Poole  et  Carpmael,  du  bureau  des  brevets,  a  Old-Square,  Lincoln's 
Inn,  a  Londres,  depuis  1834,  la  somme  de  1,500  liv.  st. 

3°  M.  Gilroy,  qui  a  fait  la  decouverte  de  toute  ces  inventions  ingenieuses 
et  utiles  a  employe  huit  annees  d'un  travail  assidu  et  depense  plus  de  liv. 
6,000  pour  arriver  a  ce  but  desirable,  et  aucun  frais,  aucun  sacrifice  n'ont 
6te  epargnes  pour  obtenir  ce  resultat.  Les  specifications  attesteront  I'im- 
mense  importance  des  resultats  que  doivent  obtenir  les  fabricans  par  I'em- 
ploi  de  ces  inventions. 

4"  La  moindre  vitesse  des  admirable  metiers  Jacquard  par  la  vapeur  ; 
de  I'invention  de  M.  Gilroy,  n'est  pas  au  dessous  de  108  coups  de  navette 
par  minute,  et  la  vitesse  ordinaire  est  de  115  coups,  et  sur  les  etofFes  de 
gros  de  Naples  faqonn^es  de  18^  jusqu'a  25  pouces  ;  ils  ont  marche  avec 
une  rapidite  de  125  a  137  coups  de  navette  par  minute,  sans  aucun  de- 
rangement dans  la  machine  Jacquard. 

Les  fabricans  et  les  ingenieurs  dont  les  noms  suivent  attesteront  la 
verite  de  ce  qui  a  ete  dit  a  I'egard  des  metiers  de  M.  C.  G.  Gilroy : 

MM.  E.  Feray,  fabricant  de  damassees,  filature  de  lin  et  construction  de 
machines  a  Essonne  (Seine-et-Oise) ;  Le  Gentil,  depute  du  3«  arrondisse- 
ment,  rue  Poissoniere ;  Henry  aine,  fabricant,  juge  au  tribunal  de  com- 
merce ;  Bosquillon,  fabricant,  arbitre  pres  le  tribunal  de  commerce ; 
Ch.  Dupuille,  fabricant  de  sole,  rue  St-Augustin,  22 ;  Desports,  directeur 
de  la  societe  anonyme  pour  les  filatures  de  lin,  tissage,  etc.,  Paris  and 
Amiens ;  Lehr,  fabricant  et  banquier  de  la  maison  de  Couchet,  Rey, 
Le  BoBuf,  et  Lehr,  passage  des  Petites  Ecuries,  a  Paris ;  Dioudonnat, 
fabricant  de  machines  Jacquart,  rue  St-Maur,  12;  le  baron  Seguier, 
membre  du  comite  de  la  Societe  d'encouragement  pour  I'industrie  nationale ; 

MM.  les  ingenieurs-mecaniciens,  Henry  Debergue  et  Spreafico,  quai 
Jemmappes,  228,  a  Paris ;  Sanford  &  Varrel,  rue  Rochechouart,  a 
Paris ;  E.  Phillippe,  rue  Chateau-Landon  (Faub.-St-Martin,)  Paris. 

Fabricans  en  Angleterre  et  en  Irlande: 

MM.  L.  et  E.  Wilson,  neveux  du  dernier  lord-maire  de  Londres,  124 
Wood  Street,  Cheapside  ;  W.  H.  Wood,  ingenieur  et  constructeur  de  ma- 
chines a  vapeur,  etc.  Renelagh  Road,  Thames  Bank,  London  ;  Michel 
Andrews,  fabricant  royal  du  linge  damasse  a  Ardoyne,  Belfast,  Irlande  ; 
M.  Coulson,  fabricant  royal  a  Lisburn,  Irlande;  W.  Webb,  chez 
MM.  Jacquier  et  C^,  a  Spitalfields,  a  Londres ;  et  John  Dove,  4  Mape 
Street,  Bethnal  Green,  Spitalfields. 

71 


562 

Tous  ces  messieurs  ont  vu  fonctionner  les  metiers  de  rinvenlion  de 
M.  C.  G.  Cilroy,  et  ils  ont  donne  a  1' excellence  de  ces  metiers  leur  entiere 
approbation. 

W.  W. 

I  have  seen  the  looms  at  work  in  London  and  in  Paris  and  have  great 
pleasure  in  giving  evidence  to  their  excellence. 

Henry  Wood. 
19  April,  1841. 

We  have  seen  Mr.  Gilroy's  machines  working  both  silk  and  linen  ;  and 
workmen  of  ours  have  superintended  them  here  and  in  France,  and  we 
can  speak  of  the  inventions  and  the  manner  in  which  they  work  in  the 
most  favourable  terms. 

L.  &,  E.  Wilson. 
Merchants  and  Silk  Manufacturers,  124  Wood  St.  Cheapside,  London, 
March  11th,  1841. 

From  what  I  have  seen  of  Mr.  Gilroys  former  inventions  in  machinery 
for  weaving  figured  goods  by  power,  I  have  every  confidence  that  the  pres- 
ent one,  (alluding  to  Poole's  patent  of  May  12th.  1839,)  will  in  all  respects 
meet  the  wants  of  manufacturers  of  silk  and  woollen  textures,  such  as 
gros  de  Naples,  vesting  stuffs,  &c. 

Michael  Andrews. 
Damask  Manufacturer,  Ardoyne,  Belfast. 
January  10th,  1841. 

Messrs.  Editors : 
A  patent  was  obtained  about  a  year  since  by  Mr.  C.  G.  Gilroy,  now  of 
New  York,  for  improvements  in  the  power  loom  for  weaving  figured 
goods  of  various  kinds,  either  of  silk,  wool,  linen  or  cotton,  which  looms 
are  now  in  successful  operation.  The  writer  has  seen  specimens  of  the 
work  executed  upon  them  from  each  of  these  materials,  some  of  them  in 
a  style  which  the  manufacturers  of  Lyons  would  not  be  ashamed  to  own, 
and  of  a  texture  differing  from  every  previous  manufacture.  Mr.  Gilroy 
has  spent  a  number  of  years  in  France,  England,  Belgium,  and  Prussia, 
in  which  countries  he  has  obtained  upwards  of  thirty  patents  for  various 
improvements  in  the  manufacture  of  textile  substances ;  and  he  has  in  his 
possession  the  highest  testimonials  from  the  first  manufacturers  of  France, 
and  from  others  eminent  in  judgment  and  station,  showing  the  estimation 
in  which  his  improvements  are  held  in  that  land  of  art  and  taste.  Mr.  G. 
has  recently  deposited  in  the  Patent  Office  another  model,  exhibiting  vari- 
ous new  improvements  in  the  loom,  and  which  is  intended  for  the  weav- 
ing of  table-cloths,  shawls,  piano-forte-covers,  window  curtains,  and  other 


563 

articles  of  a  similar  character.  By  the  action  of  this  loom  the  business 
of  weaving  will  be  much  facilitated,  as  by  its  means  he  will  be  enabled  to 
work  at  the  rate  of  from  eighty  to  a  hundred  and  thirty  picks  per  minute, 
and  to  produce  perfect  goods  in  patterns  of  great  complexity. 

Thomas  P.  Jones. 
Daily  National  Intelligencer,  Washington,  D.  C,  April  6,  1843. 

Patent  Office,  March  10,  1842 
Sir:— 
A  very  numerous  collection  of  specimens  of  your  silk  weaving  have 
been  received  for  exhibition  in  the  "  National  Gallery  of  Manufactures 
and  Agriculture,"  also  a  sample  of  carpet  weaving.  Their  extreme  rich- 
ness and  brilliancy,  entitle  them  to  great  praise,  and  will  afford  me  much 
gratification  in  the  display. 

Respectfully  Yours, 
H.  L.  Ellsworth, 
Commissioner  of  Patents,  Washington. 
Mr.  C.  G.  Gilroy, 

New  York. 

Wool  Mosaic  Cloth. — A  new  invention  has  recently  been  introduced 
into  London  from  Berlin,  and,  as  we  learn,  is  soon  to  be  introduced  into 
our  American  cities,  in  which  the  brilliancy  and  variety  of  colours  of 
Berlin  wool  are  blended  together  in  devices  of  surpassing  elegance  and 
richness.  The  manufacture  has  all  the  appearance  of  painted  velvet) 
with  the  texture  and  lasting  qualities  of  a  woven  fabric.  In  the  process 
of  manufacture  the  figures,  with  their  various  hues,  are  woven  in  a  thick 
pile  several  inches  long,  and  the  fabric  is  then  divided  into  laminte  and 
fixed  on  to  flexible  India  rubber  ground  work,  each  slice  of  the  pile  pro- 
ducing a  separate  picture  in  wool.  Some  of  the  groups  of  flowers  pro- 
duced by  this  process  are  exquisitely  beautiful,  and  are  admirably  adapted 
for  the  decoration  of  palatial  drawing-rooms.  The  attempts  to  copy 
paintings  and  to  take  likenesses  are  comparative  failures,  but  for  orna- 
mental designs  the  mosaic  cloth  is  almost  unrivalled  in  beauty. — [Boston 
Transcript. 

This  invention  is  described  at  page  249,  to  which  the  reader  is  re- 
ferred. 


D.  H.  HILL  LIBRARY 
North  Carolina  St^t^  Collega 


INDEX. 


PAGE. 

Abyssiniei,  discovery  of  looms  and  spinning  machinery  in,  by  Dr.  Lepsius, 

Mr.  Fellows,  and  others. 3 

Ahohab  and  Bezaleel,  specimen  of  lace  made  by, 44 

Alarm  loon, 34 

Alexis  Kersivenus,  letters,  from,  on  Arphaxad's  inventions,        .        .        34-65 

"  "  "        "       "  ancient  lace  manufactures,  .        .  296 

Angora  or  Cashmere  goats,  origin  and  progress  of  the  new  race  of,        .  270 

Arachne,  suicide  of, 39 

Arphaxad,  pension  granted  to, 33 

Arphaxad's  loom,  dangers  of  weaving  with, 35-65 

Arphaxad,  tribute  to  the  memory  of, 64 

Arphaxad's  vertical  air  loom, 20-34-65 

Arts  and  manufactures,  evidence  on,  before  the  House  of  Commons,       .  485 
Arts  and  manufactures,  estabhshment  in  Russia  for  the  improvement 

of,     • 424-499 

Arts  and  manufactures  in  India,  state  of, 9-59 

Arybas,  Lemuel  P.,  of  Sidon,  inventor  of  the  nipper  or  jaw-temple,       32-410 

Babylonian  carpets  and  shawls, 49 

"  pen-knife, 5 

Barrel  or  cylinder  loom, 182 

"  "  "      Gilroy's  improvements  on  the,    ....  191 

"      organ,  strange  application  of  the, 27 

Basharaboo's  account  of  Joseph's  coat, 58 

Battle-field  scene,  pattern  of, 40 

Beaming, 73 

Berry's  metallic  tissue  loom, 449 

Bigelow's  Marseilles  quilt  power  loom, 446-479 

Bobbin  winding  machines, 90 

Bottomley  and  Gilroy's  power  loom, .  352 

Bowman's  power  loom, 401 

Brains,  preservation  of, 439-446 

Bronze  power  loom,  vertical, 5 

Brussels  carpet, 50-213-431 

Buchanan,  Alex.,  inventor  of  chenille,  compliment  to,       .        .        .        .259 

Burr's  power  loom, 361 

Burt  and  Boyds'  power  loom,  402 

Calderhead's  loom,  203 

Card-cutting  plates, 209 


INDEX  565 

PAOK. 

Card-cutting  or  punching  machine, 512 

Carpeting, 210 

Carpet,  Ingrain, 213-430 

"      three-ply, 211 

Carpets,  Egyptian, 50 

"       rugs,  &c.,  Templeton  and  Quiglay's  improvements  in,       .        .  261 

Carpets,  rugs,  &c.,  Henshall's  improvements  in, 239 

Carpets,  rugs,  &c.,  manufacture  of,  by  cementing  a  nap  or  pile  on  plain 

cloth, 249-563 

Carpets,  rugs,  &c.,  Whytock's  improvements  in, 215 

"       and  velvets,  cutting  the  pile  of,  214 

Cashmere  or  Angora  goats,  origin  and  progress  of  the  new  race  of,        .  270 

Cashmere  shawls, 268 

"         wool,  mills  for  spinning, •  272 

Cast-iron,  coating  of, 422 

Checker  or  damboard, 112 

Checks, 94 

Chenille, 259 

Claims,  Arphaxad's, 28  to  33 

«       Bigelow's, 446-479 

"       Gilroy's,  read  the  work, 

Clarke's  power  loom, 395 

Cleopatra,  the  alluring  arts  of, 47 

Cloth  roller, 84 

Coach-lace, 148 

Colouring,  harmonious, 176 

"         velvet  pile  carpet,  Whytock's  method  of,         ....  232 

Comb  draw  loom, 180 

Cordings,  daughts,  and 102 

Counterpoise  harness, 161 

Craig  and  Cochran's  rotary  temple, 413 

Crofts'  lace  machinery, 278 

Crossing  the  shuttle, 90 

Cross  warps,  weaving  of, 124 

Cross  work  or  Egyptian  net, 45-296 

Cylinder  or  barrel  loom, 28-182 

Damask,  the  manufacture  of, 424 

«        tweels, 108-427 

Damboard  or  checker, 112 

Decorations  of  Solomon's  Temple,  specimens  of  the,       .        .        •     5-42-44 

Design  and  colouring, 168-485 

«       paper, 178-507 

"  "      calculation  table  of,  Gilroys, 510 

"  "      specimens  of, 511 

Designing  patterns, 179-478-488-491 

Detached  shuttle-boxes, 394 

Diagonal  quilt, H^ 

Diamond  quilt, 120 


566  INDEX. 


PAGE. 


Diaper,  domic,  and, 112 

Dimity  cord, 112 

"       power  loom,  discovery  of  a, 5 

Discover}- of  looms  and  spianingmachinery  in  Abyssinia,  by  Dr.  Lepsius, 

Mr.  Fellows,  and  others, 3 

Dohmme  and  Romagney's  Jacquard, 463 

Dornic  and  diaper, •  112 

Double  cloth  harness, 121 

•■'         •'     tweeling  of, 117 

"         «     wea\-ing  of, 30-116 

Downing's  power  loom, 372 

Drawing  or  entering  the  web. 74 

"       ornamental,  instructions  in, 172-495 

Draw  loom,  description  of. 143 

"        "      mounting  of  the. .        .  147 

Draughts  and  cordings, 102 

Dropped  nets, 142 

Egj'ptian  carpeting  on  the  Brussels  principle, 50 

'•         lace  or  net-work, 297 

"         net  or  cross-work, 45 

"         shebetz, 46 

'•'         tapestry. 40-55 

Electrical  machine,  ancient,  discovery  of, 299 

Embalming. 439-446 

Embroidered-work, 42 

Embroidering  in  China, 302 

'•'  ••  Senegal  by  negresses, 304 

«  '■  Turkey, 304 

"  machine,  Hielmann's, 306 

«  "  '•'  index  to 326 

Embroidery, 299 

Entering,  drawing  or.  the  web, 74 

Embalming  a  Genius, 439-446 

Factory  girl,  song  to  the, 345 

Fairman's  power  loom, 374 

Fancy  wea%'ing. 3S6 

Figured  weaving, 143 

'•  '•         by  power, 423 

Figuring  machinery,  ancient,  on  the  Jacquard  principle,  .  .  .43 
Five  leaf  tweel  stripe,  broken  and  reversed. Ill 

"       '•'       "         ••       regular  "         "  110 

Fletcher's  vertical  power  loom,  with  detached  shuttle-boxes,  .    394-480 

Fork  and  grid  stop-thread  motion.  Gilroy  and  Bullough's,       .        .        .  416 

"       "      "  "  "      known  to  the  ancients,         ...      5 

Four  leaf  tweel,  double  cloth, 121 

French  weavers,  taste  of, 175-500 

Full-harness  power  loom,  Gilroy's, 454 


INDEX.  567 

PAOB. 

Gauze, 125 

"        mounting 125 

Ghelen's  loom,  improvement  on, 24 

"  "      infringement  on, 266 

"  "      vertical  mat, 18 

Ghelen,  tribute  to  the  memory  of 20 

Gibson's  evidence  on  arts  and  manufactures  before  the  House  of  Commons,  494 

Gilroy  and  Bottomley's  power  loom, 352 

Gilroy's  full-harness  power  loom, 454 

"       improvements  on  Howard  and  Scattergood's  loom,    .        .        .  350 
"       loom  mountings  or  tie-ups,  Exeimples  1  to  10,      .        .        .        .  552 

"       muslin  power  loom, 395 

"       patents,  infringements  on, 483 

"       presser-harness  power  loom, 468 

"       varnish  for  headles, 409 

Glass  weaving, 453 

Gold,  cloth  of, 43 

Goos'  Jacquard, 467 

Greece,  manufactures  of,  . 56 

Gros  de  Naples, 404 

Guillotte's  evidence  on  arts  and  manufactures  before  the  House  of  Com- 
mons,      485 

Harmonious  colouring, 176 

Harness,  counterpoise, 161 

«        double  cloth, 121 

"        draw  loom, 144 

"        full,  Gilroy's  power  loom, 454 

"        presser,  Gilroy's  power  loom, 468 

"        two-thread  or  split, 509 

Headle-making  machine, 407 

Headles,  80 

"        improved,  408 

"        varnishes  for,  Montgomery  and  Gilroy's,  ....  409 

Heathcoate's  lace  machinery,  291 

Helen,  skill  of,  in  weaving, 54 

Hendrick's  power  loom, 368 

Henshall's  improvements  in  the  manufacture  of  carpets,  rugs,  dec,  .  239 

Hielmann,  letter  from, 307 

Hielmann's  embroidering  machine, 306 

«  «  «        index  to, 326 

Hornby  and  Kennyworthy's  sizing  machine, 341 

Hose  pipes,  invention  of,  by  Ichao-he-he-hi-ho  Ouang,     .        .        .        .  117 

Howard  and  Scattergood's  power  loom, 348 

Howell's  evidence  on  arts  and  manufactures  before  the  House  of  Com- 
mons,      494 

Ichao-he-he-hi-ho  Ouang,  inventor  of  hose  pipes, 117 

Index  to  Hielmann's  embroidering  machine, 326 


568  INDEX. 

PACB. 

India,  state  of  arts  and  manufactures  in, 9-59 

Ingrain  carpet, 213-431 

Introduction, 1 

Jacquard,  Dhomme  and  Romagney's 463 

"        Goos', 467 

"        J.  M.,  tribute  of  respect  to, 208 

"        machine,  43-192 

Jaw-temple, 32^10 

Jones  and  Mellowdew's  power  loom, 401 

Josepli's  coat, 58 

Junction  of  two  unequal  fabrics, 118 

Kersivenus,  Alexis,  of  Alexandria,  letters  from,  on  Arphaxad'sinventions.34-65 
Kersivenus,  Alexis,  of  Alexandria,  letter  from,  on  specimen  of  eincient  lace.  296 
Kidnapping  of  tapestry  weavers 52 

Lace,  Alexis  Kersivenus'  specimens  of  ancient,        ....      46-297 

"      manufacture  of, 14S-275 

"      the  Pope's  specimen  of  ancient, 5-44 

Lashing  or  reading  patterns, 157-514 

Lay  and  reed, 84 

"    jerking  the,  out  of  the  loom, 24 

Lepsius'  discoveries  in  Egypt, 3 

Letters  patent,  reflections  on. 37-330-371-385 

Loom,  Arphaxad's  vertical  air, 20-34-65 

"      Berry's  metalhc  tissue, 449 

"      Calderhead's, 203 

"      comb  draw, 180 

"      cylinder  or  barrel, 192 

"      dimity  power, 5 

"      draw,  description  of, 143 

"         "      mounting  the, 99 

"      Ghelen's 18 

'      Gilroy's,  mountings  or  tie-ups,  examples  1  to  10,  ,        .        .  552 

Looms,  discoveries  of,  in  Egypt,  by  Dr.  Lepsius.  Mr.  Fellows,  and  others,      3 

"      for  tweeling,  mounting  of, 99 

Loom,  power,  Bigelow's,  Marseilles  quilt, 446 

"  "        Bowman's 401 

"  "        Bronze  vertical, 5 

«  «        Burr's, 361 

«  «        Burt  and  Boyds', 402 

"  "        Clarke's, 395 

"  "        Downing's, 372 

"  "        extraordinary  speed  of, 464 

"  "        Fairman's, 374 

«  "        Fletcher's  vertical,  with  detached  Bhuttle-boxes,       .    394-480 

"  "        Gilroy  and  Bottomley's, 352 

"  "        Gilroy's  full-harness,  .......  454 

«  "  "       muslin, 395 


INDEX.  569 


PAOB. 


Loom,  power,  Gilroy's  presser-harness, 463 

"  "  Hendrick's, 369 

"  "  Howard  and  Scattergood's, 348 

"  ''  "  "  "  Gilroy's  improvements  on,      .  350 

"  "  Jones  and  Mellowdew's, 401 

"  "  Mellowdew's, 334 

"  "  Potter's  (John), 401 

«  «  "        (W.  A.), 364 

"  "  Ramsbottom  and  Holl's 395 

"  "  Roberts', 401 

"  "  Shallcross', 381 

"  "  Sharp,  Roberts  &  Co.'s, 346 

«  "  Stillman's, 3(79 

"  "  Stone's 356 

"  "  Tompkins  and  Gilroy's, 43 1 

«  «  Welch's, 382 

"  "  Yates  and  Gilroy's  Marseilles  quilt 438 

Looms,  power,  reports  of  French,  and  other  manufacturers  on  Gilroy's,    553 

Machinery,  ancient  figuring,  on  the  Jacquard  principle,  .        .        .43 

Machinery,  discoveries  of,  in  Abyssinia,  by  Dr.  Lepsius  and  others,        .      3 

Machinery,  packing  of, 421 

Manufactures,  introduction  of,  into  Russia, 424-499 

Mantle  of  Shinar, 49 

Manufactures  and  arts,  evidence  on  before  tlie  House  of  Commons,        .  485 

Manufactures,  of  Sonar-ga,  and  Vicknum-pooru, 11 

Manufactures  of  Behar  and  Patna. 59 

"  of  Europe,  see  evidence  on, 485 

"  of  Greece, 56 

"  of  Palestine, 37 

Marseilles  quilt  power  loom,  Bigelow's, 446 

"  "        "         "      Yates  and  Gilroy's, 438 

Mellowdew's  power  loom, 384 

Metallic  tissue  loom.  Berry's, 449 

Mosaic  Cloth, .       .  ...        % 249-563 

Nap  or  pile,  cementing  of  a.  on  plain  cloth, 249 

Net  Egyptian,  or  cross- work, 45 

"    mail, 136 

"    patent  or  night-thought, 138 

"    princess  royal, 140 

"    spider, 136 

"    whip, 131 

Nets,  Vulcan's, 44 

Net-work  or  lace,  Egyptian, 297 

Nodville,  spinning  in, 15 

"        weaving  in, 15 

O'Flanagan  and  Kelly's  Jacquard, 468 


570  INDEX, 

PAOE. 

O'  Farrell,  Brien  Dhu,  Poetry  of, 2-24-345 

Oration,  Arphaxad's, 20 

Ornamental  drawing,  instructions  in, 172-495 

Packing  of  macliinery,      . 421 

Palestine,  manufactures  of, 37 

Patent  net  or  night-thought, 138 

Patents,  Bigelow's, 446-479 

Palna  and  Behar,  manufactures  of, 59 

Patterns,  curious  mode  of  producing, 26 

"         designing, 179-478-488-491 

Pen-knife,  Babylonian,  ancient,         .        .  5 

Persian  carpets  and  shawls,      ,         .       .         ...         ...    49 

"       shuttle-boxes, 394 

Plain  and  tweeled  textures, 387 

"     or  tabby-backed  velvet, 122 

"     weaving,  . 69 

"  "  by  power, 345 

Pile,  cutting  the,  of  carpets  and  velvets, 214 

Plush  velvet, 123 

Pope  Alexander  VI.,  his  account  of  the  origin  of  weaving  in  ancient 

times,  by  Ghelen, 12 

Pope  Boniface's  ornamental  shirt, 196 

Pope's,  the,  specimen  of  lace, 5 

Potter's  (John)  power  loom, 401 

"  "      improvements  in  sizing, ■    .        .  338 

"        (W.  A.)  power  loom, 364 

Power  loom.     See  loom,  power, 

Preservation  of  iron  from  rust,  .        .        .        ,        .        .        .        .  422 

Presser-harness  power  loom,  Gilroy's,      .        .        .        ,        .        .        .  468 

Princess  royal  net, 140 

Punching  or  cutting  machine, 512 

Q,uill  and  shuttle, 84 

Q,uilt,  diagonal, 119 

"      diamond, 120 

"  Marseilles,  Bigelow's  power  loom  for  weaving,  .  .  .  446-479 
"  "  Yates  and  Gilroy's  power  loom  for  weaving,  .  .  438 
"      waved, 120 

Ramsbottom  and  Holl's  power  loom, 395 

Reading  or  lashing  patterns, .    157-514 

Reed  and  lay, 82 

Reed-scale, .  511 

Reflections  on  letters  patent, 37-330-371-385 

Reports  of  French,  and  other  manufacturers  on  Gilroy's  power  looms,    ,  553 

Roberts'  power  loom, 401 

Rods, 79 

Rotary  temple,  Craig  and  Cochran's, 413 


INDEX.  571 

PAGE. 

4.12 
Rotary  temple,  Drapers, *^'=' 

Rugs,  carpets,  &c.,  Henshall's  improvements  in,      .        .        •        •        .239 
«          ii           "    manxifacture  of,  by  cementing  a  nap  or  pile  on  plain 
cloth 249-563 

Rust,  preservation  of  iron  from, • 

c,  *•                                                                                     ....  406 
Satin, 

"     Kiang-Nau,  mode  of  weaving, 30 

«      tweel, ^°^ 

Saw-dusting,  explanation  of, '^'^" 


Self-knowledge,  necessity  of, ^2^ 

Seven  leaf  tvveels, 

Shallcross's  power  loom, ^°^ 

Sharp,  Roberts  &  Co.'s  power  loom, ^^° 

Shawls,  Persian, 

Shebetz,  Egyptian, ^ 

Shinar,  mantle  of, 

Shining  taffeta, ^Z 

Shirt,  Pope  Boniface's  ornamental, ^^6 

84 
Shuttle  and  quill, 

"       curious  contrivance  in  the, 

Shuttles,  odd  method  of  working, 

«        self-changmg,  magic,         . '^'^  ^'^ 

Silk  manufacture  in  China, 

"    textures,  weaving  of, * 

""  123 

Simple  jean  velvet  cord, 

Six  leaf  tweels, 

Sizing, 

«       by  power,  improvements  in, •        •  ^"^^ 

a        u       «       Hornby  and  Kennyworthy's  improvements  in,     .        .  341 

Skene's  evidence  on  arts  and  manufactures  before  the  House  of  Com- 

.  49d 

monS, 1RQ90Q4.ST 

Sketching,  and  drawing  of  Paterns,         .  ...      lbS-^^y-*»o 

Solomon's  political  sagacity, 

Solomon's  temple,  decorations  of, 

Spider  and  mail  nets, 

Spider  net, _ 

Spinning  in  Nodville, n   \  o 

machinery,  discoveries  of,  in  Egypt,  by  Dr.  Lepsius,  and  others,      J 

"         machine,  with  256  spindles, 

Split  or  two-thread  harness,  principle  of, 

Spooling  or  winding, ^^^ 

"         warping  and  sizing,  by  power, 

Stillman's  power  loom, 

Stone's  power  loom, 5-416 

Stop-thread  motion,  fork  and  grid, 

Striking  up  the  weft, 


672  INDEX. 


PACE. 


Striped  webs,  warping  of,         ...        .  ....  95 

Stripes, 94 

Suicide  of  Arachne, 39 

Syracusan  ladies,  unbridled  tongues  of 55 

Tabby-backed  or  plain  velvet, 122 

Taffeta,  shining, 404 

Taffetas,  404 

Tapestry, 263 

"        Gobelins,  frame  for  weaving,  description  of,     .        .        .        .  266 

"        splendid,  Theocritus'  description, 55 

"        weavers,  kidnapping  of, 52 

"  "         peculiar  sensibility  of, 267 

Tappet-wheel,  invention  ofj 29 

Teague  Ghelen,  the  harpist, 18 

Temple,  jaw  or  nipper.     .        .        , 410 

"        rotary,  Craig  and  Cochran's, 413 

"  "       Draper's, 412 

Temples, 83-410 

"         jaw  or  nipper,  used  wholesale, 24 

Templeton  and  Q,uiglay's  improvements  in  carpets,  rugs,  &c.,         .        .  261 

Thick  eilk  cloth, 405 

Three-ply  carpet, 211 

Tie-ups  or  loom  mountings,  Gilroy's,  examples  1  to  10,  .        .        .  552 

Tompkins  and  Gilroy's  power  loom, 430 

Traveller,  scientific, 7 

Treading, 88 

Treadles,  arrangement  of, 103 

Tribute  to  Arphaxad's  memory,       .        .        .        .        .        .        .        .64 

"        "  Ghelen's  memory, 20 

Tweel,  four  leaf,  double  cloth, 121 

«       three  «        «  « 121 

Tweeled  and  plain  textures, 387 

"       stripes, 109 

"  "      five  leaf  regular  and  reversed, 110 

"  "        "      "    broken  and  reversed, Ill 

Tweeling, 96 

"         mounting  of  looms  for, 99 

"         turned  or  reversed, .111 

"         of  double  cloth, 117 

Tweels,  damask, 108-427 

"       satin,  109 

"       seven  leaf,  107 

"       six  leaf, 107 

Two-thread  or  split  harness,  principle  of  the, 509 

Turkey  carpet, 215 

Tyrian  manufactures, 53 

Unequal  fabrics,  junction  of  two,       .        .  118 


INDEX.  573 

PAGK. 

Varnishes  for  headles,  Montgomery  and  GUroy's 409 

Velvet,  plain  or  tabby-backed, 122 

"      Pl^^^h, i23 

«      cord,  simple  jean, -^"^ 

«      pile  carpet,  Whytock's, 215 

u        a        «  «         method  of  colouring,        ....  232 

Velvets, If 

«       cutting  the  pile  of, '*-^* 

"       expeditious  mode  of  manufacturing, 214 

Vertical  air  loom,  Arphaxad's, 20-34-65 

"        power  loom,  bronze,  

(t  <f        «      Fletcher's,  with  detached  shuttle-boxes,  .    394-480 

44 
Vulcan's  nets, .        •        • 

Wallotty  Trot,  of  Nodville,  the  spinner,  15 

Warping, 

«         machine, ^^^ 

«         of  striped  webs,  &c., ^^ 

Waved  quilt, 

Weaving, ' 

"         operation  of, /.s-oj 

Weft  calculation  tables,  &c., '     •        •        •        *  ^  ° 

382 
Welch's  power  loom, "^ 

Whip  net, 

Whytock's  velvet  pile  carpet,  description  of, 215 

«  «        «        «       method  of  colouring.  ....  232 

Wiles,  Woman's, 45^7-48^57 

Wilton  carpet, 214 

Winding  machines,  bobbin, 

"        or  spooling, 

Wire-drawing,  by  Zurishaddai,  of  Sidon, ^ 

Wool  of  the  wilderness, 

QQQ 

Yarn  of  extraordinary  fineness, *^° 

Yates  and  Gilroy's  Marseilles  quilt  power  loom, 438 

Zannkul  K.  Euzen,  king  of  Nodville,  selfishness  of,        .        •        •        -15 
Zurishaddai,  the  wire-drawer,  of  Sidon, ^ 


0/4 

The  Author  would  here  confess,  that  he  has  derived  considerable  infor- 
mation, relative  to  the  state  of  weaving  in  ancient  times,  from  that  profound 
antiquarian,  W.  Cooke  Taylor,  L.  L.  D.,  of  Trinity  College,  Dubhn.  He 
would  also  express  in  this  place,  his  warmest  acknowledgments  to  those  la- 
dies and  gentlemen  who  have  so  liberally  contributed  towards  defraying  the 
heavy  expenses  attending  the  pubhcation  of  this  Work ;  and,  in  justice  to 
such  as  have  come  forward  with  handsome  donations,  we  subjoin  a  list  of 
their  names. 


M.  Frederick  William  R.  Lepsius, 

Alexander  Fitzwalter,  Esq., 

Henry  Estuteville  Carew,  Esq., 

Hugh  Granger  Gordon,  Esq., 

Mr.  Richard  D.  Roberts, 

Mr.  Emanuel  James  Russell, 

Charles  K.  Blount,  Esq., 

Thomas  Clifford  Bellew,  Esq., 

Ichabod  Hook,  Esq.,  M.  A.  &,  F.  A.  S., 

E.  B.  Homblower,  Esq., 

Hamilton  S.  Fitzclarence,  Esq., 

John  Coulson,  Esq., 

Mr.  Charles  J.  E.  Stewart, 

Lionel  Skyfaigen,  Esq., 


Miss 


Lucretia  O'Connell, 
Rachel  Fitzgerald, 
Rose  Cunningham, 
Grace  Herbert, 
Mary  Hamilton, 
Elizabeth  Rutherford, 
Matilda  Lovelace, 
Christianna  Witherspoon, 
Phebeanna  Tankerville, 
Jane  Sinclair, 
Euphemia  Ballantyne, 
Penelope  Evergreen, 
Isabella  Crawford, 
Sarah  Appleton, 
Esther  Whistler, 


Amasis  Osirtasen,  Priv.  Sec.  to  Mehemet 

Henry  James  Gray,  Esq.,  [Ali, 

M.  Eugene  Gigot, 

William  P.  Hatherton,  Esq., 

George  Cuthbert  Harcourt,  Esq., 

Mr.  Peter  Luckless, 

Bolivar  Fitzrov,  Esq., 

Mr.  Edward  P.  Blau-, 

Mr.  Vincent  Lawrence, 

Michael  Andrews,  Esq., 

John  C.  D.  Trivet,  Esq., 

Alexis  Kersivenus,  Esq.,  H.  P.  &  C.  E., 

Warfyde  Farncopvf  Shinimigin,  J.  P., 

Diogenes  T.  Flint,  F.  A.  S., 


Miss 


Catherine  Erskine, 
Theresa  Clinton, 
Lucinda  Longchampe, 
Angeline  Channing, 
Emma  Cook  Mainwairing, 
Wilhelmine  INIontgomerj', 
Charlotte  Adair, 
Josepliine  Berresford, 
Evelyne  Travers  Emmet, 
Lynx  I.  Starzenski, 
Louisa  Clarendon, 
Algora  Freemantle, 
Delight  Bliss  Peabody, 
Cleopatra  Kersivenus, 
Ruth  Harkaway. 


THE    END. 


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